Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, East of Avenue Bosquet
Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet
In the Jewish Quarter, Rue des Rosiers
Restaurant Row Streets near St. Sulpice Church
Map: Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden
Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum
On and near St. Germain-des-Prés
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. There is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of (only French onion soup is truly Parisian), but it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My restaurant recommendations are centered on the same great neighborhoods listed in the Sleeping in Paris chapter; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always-appetizing www.parisbymouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.
To save piles of euros, go to a bakery for takeout, or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (plate of the day, about €16-20) or a chef-like salad (about €12-16) day or night. To save even more, consider picnics (tasty takeout dishes available at charcuteries). Try eating your big meal at lunch, when many fine restaurants offer their dinnertime fixed-price menus at a reduced price.
Linger longer over dinner—restaurants expect you to enjoy a full meal. Most restaurants I’ve listed have set-price menus between €26 and €40. In most cases, the few extra euros for the more expensive menu option open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected—see here of the Practicalities chapter for advice).
Many restaurants close Sunday and/or Monday. Most open for dinner around 19:00, though some open at 18:30. Some places serve continuously from lunch until late, making it easier to get in if you arrive early. Last seating is usually at about 22:00. Eat early with tourists or late with locals—restaurants that are popular with locals get crowded after 21:00. If a restaurant is open for lunch and doesn’t serve continuously, the hours are generally 12:00-14:30 (last orders at about 13:30). If you want to eat in the late afternoon, when many restaurants are closed, pop in to a brasserie or café. At any eatery, before choosing a seat outside, remember that smokers love outdoor tables.
I rank eateries from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in Paris, including restaurant pricing; dining in Paris’ restaurants, cafés, and brasseries; getting takeout and assembling a picnic; and a rundown of French cuisine, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.
The Rue Cler neighborhood caters to its residents. Its eateries, while not destination places, have an intimate charm. I’ve provided a full range of choices—from cozy ma-and-pa diners to small and trendy boutique restaurants to classic, big, boisterous bistros.
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy: Brasserie on speed—crank out good-enough food at fair prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind average-quality cuisine and want to eat an inexpensive one-course meal among a commotion of people. The chalkboard lists your choices: good, hearty salads or more filling plats du jour. Arrive before 19:00 to avoid waiting (daily 11:00-23:00, serves continuously, no reservations, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, +33 1 47 05 51 27).
$$ Tribeca Restaurant, next door to Café du Marché, fills a broad terrace along Rue Cler and offers a wide selection at good prices. Choose from kid-pleasing burgers and Italian dishes—pizzas, pastas, and salads (daily, 36 Rue Cler, +33 1 45 55 12 01).
$ L’Eclair, a few doors down, is a bar-meets-bistro place with tasty cuisine, a trendy vibe, and terrific seating on Rue Cler (daily until late, 32 Rue Cler, +33 1 44 18 09 04).
$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny and cramped tables—indoors and out—and simple, tasty, inexpensive dishes such as €15 tartines and plats, €10 omelets, and €9 soups. Eating outside here with a view of the Rue Cler action can be marvelous (daily, opens early for dinner, arrive early or call in advance; delicious pots de crème and good breakfasts as well; 29 Rue Cler, +33 1 45 50 17 50).
$$ Café Roussillon offers a younger, pub-meets-café ambience with good-value food that works well for families. You’ll find hearty hamburgers, salads, daily specials, and easygoing waiters (daily, serves nonstop from lunch until late, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, +33 1 45 51 47 53). While less charming than other spots, it’s more likely to have a table available.
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$$ Le Septième Vin is a cozy and welcoming bistro. Hervé cooks while wife Stéphanie serves delicious traditional cuisine at good prices (closed Sun, the confit de canard and dorade are memorable, 68 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 15 97).
$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. The setting is warm and welcoming. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascal, his chef of more than 20 years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage, lobster ravioli, and confit de canard. The Château Chênaie house wine is excellent (closed Sat-Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, +33 1 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).
$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a vintage French dining experience in an intimate setting. Chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, +33 1 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (serves nonstop, closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).
$$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. Located on a corner, it overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (nonstop service daily until at least 24:00; good salades, French onion soup, and foie gras; 2 Place de L’Ecole Militaire, +33 1 45 55 00 02).
(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)
$$$$ L’Ami Jean offers authentic Basque specialties in a snug-but-convivial atmosphere with red peppers and Basque stuff dangling from the ceiling. It’s pricey, but portions are hearty and delicious. Parisians detour long distances to savor the gregarious chef’s special cuisine and fun atmosphere. For dinner arrive before 19:30 or reserve ahead (closed Sun-Mon; €80 six-course dinner menu, more accessible lunch menu for €35; 27 Rue Malar, +33 1 47 05 86 89, www.lamijean.fr).
$$ Bistrot Chez France is a simple place lined with red-velvet booths where the focus is on food, not charming ambience—the dining room gets very warm when filled. You must order from the two- or three-course menu. Sit back and trust Régis and Arnaud to manage your meal (closed Sun, good choices of classic French cuisine, fine wine options, 9 Rue Amelie, +33 1 40 67 96 54).
$$ O’Brien’s Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish pub/sports bar, where locals toss darts and order fine red wine with gourmet hamburgers (daily, 77 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 51 75 87). Along with their pubby barroom they have appealing streetside seating.
$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original, time-warp decor, red-checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler tourist crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (closed Mon, good à la carte choices or three-course menu that changes with the season, well-priced wines, 20 Rue Surcouf, +33 1 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).
$$ La Poule au Pot is the neighborhood’s Old World bistro, worth a stop to sip a coffee or have a simple meal amid decor that can’t have changed in, like, forever (closed Sat-Sun, 121 Rue de l’Université, +33 1 47 05 16 36).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l’Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler), allowing you to do a quick survey before sitting down.
$$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Anna serves while hubby José cooks a tasty range of traditional choices. The homey charm of the tight little dining room makes this place a delight (dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, €38 three-course dinner menu available for €27 at lunch, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, +33 1 47 05 80 39, www.leptittroquet.fr).
$$$ Pottoka attracts locals willing to book ahead and crowd into this shoebox for a chance to sample tasty Basque cuisine. Service is friendly, wines are reasonable, and the focus is on food rather than decor (daily, reservations smart, 4 Rue de l’Exposition, +33 1 45 51 88 38, www.pottoka.fr).
$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place featuring creative cuisine that draws from many countries—and there’s always a good vegetarian option. With its simple setting and fair prices, it feels more designed for neighbors than tourists. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to a convivial counter (closed Sun-Mon, 11 Rue Augereau, +33 1 45 50 10 90).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the area. This humble place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine here because “it’s like eating at home.” Gentle Guillaume is a fine host (closed Sat-Sun, 212 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 47 53 92 90).
Affordable Italian: You’ll find several good places in the area. $$ Ristorante Gusto Italia is fun, tight, and characteristic (daily, two locations—199 and 218 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 45 55 00 43).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma)
A terrific string of restaurants gathers a few short blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Find the western end of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition for the restaurants below. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is really cheap, but they’re all a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.
$$$$ Les Fables de la Fontaine is a fine place to relax over a gourmet dinner with appealing seating inside or out on a picturesque square. It has a Michelin star yet maintains fair prices and friendly staff. While the chef’s specialty is fish, she also serves a few meat dishes (daily, book ahead on weekends, €75 tasting menu, less for à la carte, 131 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 44 18 37 55, www.lesfablesdelafontaine.net).
$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, and pass on the upstairs room (daily, superb foie gras and desserts, 129 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).
$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a chic eating scene—hushed and elegant. Service is formal yet helpful; the cuisine is what made this restaurant’s reputation (daily, reservations essential, order à la carte or consider their €130 seven-course tasting menu, cheaper lunch menu, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 55 15 05, www.maisonconstant.com).
$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of trendy Parisians and tourists with its fun energy and creative dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots (daily, nonstop service from noon until late, go early as they don’t take reservations, tasty soups, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 50 10 28).
$$ Café Constant is a cool, two-level place that feels more like a small bistro-wine bar than a café. Delicious dishes are served in a snug setting. Arrive as early as you want to get a table downstairs—the upstairs seating lacks character (daily, opens at 7:00 for breakfast, meals served nonstop 12:00-23:00, no reservations, corner of Rue Augereau and Rue St. Dominique, next to recommended Hôtel de Londres Eiffel at 139 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 47 53 73 34).
Picnics with floodlit views of the Eiffel Tower or along the riverside promenade are très romantique, and Rue Cler is a festival of food just waiting to be celebrated. For an unforgettable picnic dinner, assemble it in no fewer than five shops on Rue Cler. For less character and more efficiency, there are several handy supermarkets with long hours. Carrefour City at the Ecole Militaire Métro is open 24/7 (yes, really, even in France!). You’ll also find good grocery stores next to the recommended Hôtel la Bourdonnais (Avenue de la Bourdonnais) and Hôtel Bosquet (Rue du Champ de Mars). A small, late-night grocery is at 197 Rue de Grenelle. If a picnic is too much work, delis (such as Traiteur Jeusselin at 37 Rue Cler, open until 19:00) sell fine hot meals to go.
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls—with a few notable exceptions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le Tourville and Café des Officiers gather a sea of outward-facing seats for the important business of people-watching.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less pretentious clientele (listed earlier). On Rue Cler, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American café crowd until at least midnight, though the younger-in-spirit L’Eclair cocktail café and bistro (listed earlier) rocks it until late. Café Roussillon has a French pubby atmosphere at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler. O’Brien’s Pub (also listed earlier) is a sports bar that might have an American game on late.
If it’s a balmy evening, I’d hike down to the riverside and enjoy the bar scene under Pont Alexandre III, where several lively places serve drinks and fun until the wee hours (see the “Make the Scene on the Seine for Dinner” sidebar, earlier).
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying fine food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of places—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a memorable experience.
(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.
$$$ La Place Royale offers an exceptional location on the square, with comfortable seating inside or out, and is good for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Come here for the setting and snag an outdoor table under the arches. The hearty cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and the lengthy wine list is reasonable. The €42 dinner menu comes with three courses, a half-bottle of wine per person, and coffee; or just order a salad—or split one before a main course—and call it good (daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, lunch specials, 2 bis Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 78 58 16).
$$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a Parisian energy. The food’s just OK, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 72 64 04).
(Mo: Chemin Vert)
$$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy and youthful crowd intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the happy commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens at 19:00, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, +33 1 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur, browse the list above the bar).
$$$ Le Petit Marché, popular with tourists, delivers a warm bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a tasty cuisine that blends French classics with an Asian influence (daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, +33 1 42 72 06 67).
(Mo: Bastille or St-Paul)
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution for over a century, specializes in seafood and traditional cuisine with Alsatian flair. You’ll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-and-white-attired waiters. Come here for the one-of-a-kind ambience in the elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms, reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Reserve ahead to dine under the grand 1919 coupole (avoid eating upstairs). If you’ve always wanted one of those pricey picturesque seafood platters, this is a good place, though the Alsatian dishes are far cheaper (open daily for lunch and dinner, fun kids’ menu, 5 Rue de la Bastille, don’t be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, +33 1 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).
$$$ Le Temps des Cerises is a warm place with wads of character, a young and lively vibe, tight inside seating, and a couple of outdoor tables. (There are a few more upstairs that I’d avoid.) Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar, and stay for a very tasty dinner. Owner Ben takes good care of his guests and serves generous portions (daily, reasonable wine list, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, 31 Rue de la Cerisaie, +33 1 42 72 08 63).
$ Crêpes and Pizza: Two budget finds sit side by side where Rue St. Paul meets Rue Neuve St. Pierre. Both are open daily and have good but limited seating inside and out. Crêpolog dishes out a tasty range of appetizer, main course, and dessert crêpes using fresh batter (Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 43 48 28 34). La Cerise sur la Pizza (“Cherry on the Pizza”) fires up great-looking pizza (eat there or take it to go, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 42 78 15 59).
(Mo: St-Paul)
$$$ Chez Mademoiselle’s country-elegant, candlelit decor recalls charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. Enjoy a French-paced (a.k.a. slow) dinner in a relaxing atmosphere (tables have generous spacing) inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. Let Alexia share her enthusiasm for her seasonal dishes before you choose. The tender château filet is served all year, but most dishes follow the seasons (daily from 19:30, good wine list, 16 Rue Charlemagne, +33 1 42 72 14 16).
$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square, just off Rue St. Antoine, is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, this is a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents breathe. Survey the square. You’ll find three French bistros with similar features and menus: Le Marché, Chez Joséphine, and Le Bistrot de la Place (all open daily, cheaper for lunch, tight seating on simple chairs indoors and out). At Chez Joséphine the cuisine takes a back seat to its lively drink scene—I’d choose between the other two (Place du Marché Ste. Catherine; Le Marché, +33 1 40 09 05 33; Le Bistrot, +33 1 42 78 21 32; Chez Joséphine, +33 1 42 77 16 26).
$$ Les Bougresses, just off the charming square, offers less romance but far more taste. Stepping inside, you feel like you’ve joined a food lovers’ party with owners Mika and Constantin overseeing the conviviality (daily from 18:30, inside seating only, 6 Rue de Jarente, +33 1 48 87 71 21).
(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)
$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose from several indoor zones with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from two dozen zakouskis (hot and cold hors d’oeuvres) to assemble your plat. Vegetarians will find great options (long hours daily, takeaway falafel sandwiches, 2 Rue des Hospitalières St. Gervais—at the corner with Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 18 86).
$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch but slammed on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily 9:00-19:00 but only dessert-type items offered after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 90 61).
$ Falafel Row is a series of inexpensive joints serving filling falafel sandwiches (and other Jewish dishes to go or to eat in) that line Rue des Rosiers between Rue des Ecouffes and Rue Vieille du Temple. Take a stroll along this short stretch to compare, then decide. Their takeout services draw a constant crowd (long hours most days, most are closed Fri evening and all day Sat).
$ La Droguerie, a hole-in-the-wall crêpe stand on Rue des Rosiers near Rue Vieille du Temple, is a good budget option if falafels don’t work for you but cheap does. Grab a stool, or get a crêpe to go and a smile from the friendly owner/crêpe master (daily 12:00-23:00, 56 Rue des Rosiers, +33 9 50 99 59 58).
(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)
$$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouth-watering and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, +33 1 48 87 15 40).
$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating on flimsy chairs and an artsy interior, it’s good for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a warm evening. Their €15 bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you would typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (daily 12:00-21:30, closes earlier in winter, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, +33 1 42 74 70 52).
$$ Au Petit Fer à Cheval delivers classic seating ideal for admiring the Marais’ active night scene. The horseshoe-shaped zinc bar carbonates rich conversation—and the rear room is Old World adorable, but the few outdoor tables are street-theater perfect. The food is fairly priced, standard café fare (daily, 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 47 47).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria, La Kantine, provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from, with a salad bar, pizza by the slice, and pasta. It’s family-easy (daily 11:00-19:00, hot food served until 16:00, open later Wed, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Rambuteau)
$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory—and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. They talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink (closed Mon, serves nonstop 11:30-late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue du Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 13 77, https://commande.breizhcafe.com).
Picnic at peaceful Place des Vosges (closes at dusk), Square George Caïn (near the Carnavalet Museum), or on the Ile St. Louis quais. Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store (closed Sun, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You’ll find a small grocery open until 23:00 on Ile St. Louis.
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie. There’s also a line of bars and cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north of Rue de Rivoli—the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar (see earlier) and the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action. Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La Perla dishes up imitation Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian millennials in search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Myron, +33 1 42 77 59 40).
Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It’s perfect for immersing yourself in today’s Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, fun-loving, easygoing...and sans tourists. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools or streetside to watch the constant Marais parade (daily 7:00-24:00, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 40 29 02 18).
Le Perchoir, a rooftop bar atop the BHV department store, owns the best Marais view over Paris, but expect pricey drinks and appetizers—and crowds, particularly in good weather (Mon-Sat 20:15 until late, Sun from 12:30, 37 Rue de la Verrerie).
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la Bastille, it’s one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy “three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window shopping the art galleries.
(Mo: Pont Marie)
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the island’s main street for a variety of options, and after dinner, sample Paris’ favorite ice cream before strolling across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (for locations, see the “Marais Restaurants” map, earlier).
$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy, medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill hearty wine. For dinner they serve up rustic, all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies and bundles of saucisson (cut whatever you like with your dagger), plates of pâté, a meat course, cheese, a dessert, and all the wine you can stomach for €40. The food is perfectly edible; burping is encouraged. If you want to overeat, drink too much wine, be surrounded by tourists (mostly French), and holler at your friends while receiving smart-aleck buccaneer service, you’re home. If you stay later, the atmosphere progresses from sloppy to frat party (daily, 39 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 46 33 66 07).
$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a tasty, lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (daily, serves nonstop, 2- or 3-course menus or plat du jour only, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, +33 1 43 25 76 67).
$$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic yet elegant place with soft lighting, comfortable spacious seating, and a hushed ambience. The cuisine blends traditional with modern touches (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 31).
$$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel serves basic French cuisine at reasonable prices. Along with like-mother-made-it comfort food, he serves good dinner salads (opens at 18:30, closed Wed, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 30).
$ Café Med, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery crêperie with good-value salads, crêpes, pasta, and several meat dishes (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 29 73 17). Two less atmospheric crêperies are just across the street.
$$ Au Bougnat, a short walk away on Ile de la Cité, is a place that delivers traditional cuisine at very fair prices with oodles of ambience. It’s a short hop from Notre-Dame and where local cops and workers get sandwiches, coffee, and reasonably priced menus (daily, 26 Rue Chanoinesse, +33 1 43 54 50 74).
Ice Cream Dessert: Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice cream cone because this is the home of the famous les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (daily until late, no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer small tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 44 07 48 08). Having a little of each is not a bad thing.
Sleeping in the Luxembourg neighborhood puts you near many appealing dining and after-hours options. Because my hotels cluster near St. Sulpice Church, the Panthéon, and Rue de Sèvres, I’ve focused my restaurant picks in the same areas. Restaurants around St. Sulpice tend to be boisterous, while those near the Panthéon and Rue de Sèvres are calmer. It’s a short walk from one area to the other.
(Mo: St-Sulpice or St-Germain-des-Près)
Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde teem with busy eateries offering a lively selection of low-brow cuisine at generally affordable prices. It’s hard to recommend one over the next, but it’s a fun neighborhood to browse—offering what many hope to find in the Latin Quarter (but don’t).
Two Rue Guisarde places stand out from the rest for a good meal: $$$ Monte Verdi serves Italian cuisine in two rooms—and there’s piano music nightly from 20:00. One room is more romantic, with cushy seating and the piano close by; the other is more “barstools and friends” (closed Sun, 5 Rue Guisarde, +33 1 42 34 55 90). $$$ Chez Fernand is a solid choice for a great range of classic French bistro fare, with tight seating, red-checkered tablecloths, and booths to match (daily 19:00-late, 13 Rue Guisarde, +33 1 43 54 61 47).
On Rue des Canettes you’ll find a down-and-dirty bar, Chez Georges, with a dank cellar for a drink before or after dinner (#11), and almost across the street, a couple of simple $ crêperies. Closer to Place St. Sulpice, $$$ Boucherie Roulière is known for its steak but not for its ambience (#24, +33 1 43 26 25 70).
$$ Pizza Chic is a fun and almost elegant joint with a good vibe that’s popular with locals. It’s a family-friendly place serving delicious pizza and more (daily, 13 Rue de Mézières, +33 1 45 48 30 38).
A block north of Boulevard St. Germain (toward the river), Rue de Buci has a lineup of bars, cafés, and bistros targeted toward a young, trendy clientele. It’s terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late. Consider $$ Café de Paris, a classic brasserie with hearty and creative dinner salads (daily, 10 Rue de Buci, +33 1 46 34 84 11).
(Mo: Odéon)
$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine takes you back to 1906 with an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. It’s like having dinner with Gustav Klimt and a bunch of tourists. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters give it an inviting conviviality. Check upstairs before choosing a table. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, +33 1 44 32 15 60, www.bouillon-racine.com).
$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a dressy pastel setting...with similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are sophisticated yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily from 19:30, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, +33 1 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).
$$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a place to savor a light meal with a stylish young crowd (service is outdoors-only in good weather and inside the theater in bad weather). The menu offers a limited selection of cheese and meat platters at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating light but well in such a Parisian setting (daily 12:00-23:00, no reservations, good salads, reasonable plats, Place de l’Odéon, +33 7 72 36 69 13).
$$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a trendy, less tourist-friendly splurge where trusting foodies who book well in advance enjoy gourmet dishes with a modern flair. In a lively and jammed streetfront setting, you’ll choose a delicious five-course €60 fixed menu or do your best to order à la carte (daily, reservations smart but only accepted Mon-Fri for those ordering the five-course menu, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).
$$ L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre and L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer are two stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bars sitting next door to the mothership restaurant (described above). They serve an array of French-Basque tapas on sleek zinc counters. De la Terre focuses on meats and food from the land, while de la Mer is all about seafood. With illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceilings, these popular (and pretty intense) places are designed to make the cuisine from the pricey Le Comptoir more accessible. At the walk-up counters outside, you can get top-quality sandwiches, crêpes, or seafood to go (for less and with less commotion). But step inside for the foodie bar and it’s another world (daily 12:00-23:00, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).
$$ Breizh Café serves gourmet crêpes a short hop from Boulevard St. Germain. The staff is welcoming, the outside terrace is generous, and the interior has a stone-wall-and-oak-floor warmth (daily, 1 Rue de l’Odéon, +33 1 42 49 34 73).
$$$ Brasserie Lipp, a favorite of Hemingway, is the place to experience an unspoiled yet famous brasserie. The cool two-level interior is awash with worn leather booths and faded decor that looks like it dates to when the place opened in 1880. Come for the ambience and good-enough brasserie cuisine (daily, 151 Boulevard St. Germain, +33 1 45 48 53 91).
$$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s much loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France. The drawers you see at the back? They hold napkins for regulars (daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, no reservations, cash only, good wines by the glass, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, +33 1 43 26 95 34).
(Mo: Cluny La Sorbonne or RER/Train-B: Luxembourg)
$$$ Les Papilles is worth the walk. You’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine in a warm, woody bistro and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Choose your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead and make sure that you’re OK with what he’s cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, +33 1 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).
$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, +33 1 43 26 57 56).
$$ Café de l’Ecritoire sits among other cafés on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. It’s a typical brasserie with salads, plats du jour, and good seating inside and out (daily, 3 Place de la Sorbonne, +33 1 43 54 60 02).
(Mo: Sèvres-Babylone)
$$$$ Aux Prés, a longtime favorite of well-heeled locals, is an intimate place where diners can sit at a large marble counter or in leather booths and feast on a three-course menu of classic French cuisine for about €50 (no à la carte). Reservations are essential (daily, 27 Rue du Dragon, +33 1 45 48 29 68, www.restaurantauxpres.com).
$$ Au Sauvignon Café is perfectly positioned for a predinner drink and people-watching. The interior is vintage Paris, with wall-to-ceiling decor and a fine zinc bar (daily, 80 Rue des Saints-Pères, +33 1 45 48 49 02).
$$ La Petite Chaise, founded in 1680, is Paris’ oldest restaurant (which alone justifies the trip here for me). Offering a good selection of generous, traditional dishes at reasonable prices, this friendly place appeals to those in search of a classic Parisian dining experience that won’t break the bank. Dine in a smaller, characteristic room downstairs or the more elegant upstairs space (good three-course dinner menu, daily, 36 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 42 22 13 35).
$$ Le Basile is full of young, loud, and happy eaters thrilled to have found a place where drinks are cheap and nothing on the menu costs more than €17 (open daily from 7:00, food served 12:00-23:00, 34 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 42 22 59 46).
(Mo: Censier Daubenton or Place Monge)
Several blocks behind the Panthéon, Rue Mouffetard is a conveyor belt of comparison-shopping eaters with wall-to-wall budget options (fondue, crêpes, Italian, falafel, and Greek). Come here to sift through the crowds and eat cheaply. This street stays up late and likes to party. The gauntlet begins on top, at thriving Place de la Contrescarpe, and ends below where Rue Mouffetard stops at St. Médard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-man’s-land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun-seekers is enjoyable. If you’re undecided, my recommendations below are solid choices. For their locations, see the map on here.
$$ Cave de Bourgogne, a local hangout, has reasonably priced café fare at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables; the lively interior has heaps of character (daily, 144 Rue Mouffetard, +33 1 47 07 82 80).
$$ Restaurant la Mosquée transports diners to Morocco with its dazzling Arabic ambience and cuisine at fair prices. It’s tucked into the back of the Grande Mosquée de Paris (see the Sights in Paris chapter) and serves tasty baked goods, teas, and even tastier meals—including several varieties of couscous and tagine (daily 9:00-late, 39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, +33 1 43 31 38 20).
Montmartre can be hit or miss; the top of the hill is extremely touristy, with mindless mobs following guides to cancan shows. But if you walk a few blocks away, you’ll find a quieter, more authentic meal at one of the places I’ve listed below. For locations, see the map on here.
(Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are fun for a picnic with a view, though the spot comes with lots of company. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the church. Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several piano bars serve mediocre crêpes and overpriced bistro fare but offer great people-watching. The options become less touristy and more tasty as you escape from the top of the hill.
$$$ Le Moulin de la Galette is a fine place to dine chez Renoir under the famous windmill. Along with the stylish decor, there’s well-respected classic French cuisine (daily, 83 Rue Lepic, +33 1 46 06 84 77).
$$$ Le Coq Rico venerates poultry. The proud chef serves Paris’ best roast chicken, pigeon, or duck—slow cooked for three hours, then roasted and served with tasty fries and terrific desserts. Sharing a whole bird is best. No red meat or vegetarian options (daily, reservations smart, 98 Rue Lepic, +33 1 42 59 82 89, https://lecoqrico.com).
$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good budget choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, cheap plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 8 Rue Paul Albert, +33 1 42 64 02 67).
(Mo: Abbesses unless otherwise noted)
At the bottom of Montmartre, residents pile into a long lineup of brasseries and cafés near Place des Abbesses. Locals tend to gravitate to the cafés on the north side of Rue des Abbesses, leaving the sunnier and pricier cafés on the south side to visitors. Come here for a lively, less touristy scene. Rue des Abbesses is good for café lounging and a picnic-gathering stroll with cheese shops, delis, wine stores, and bakeries. In fact, the bakers at Grenier à Pain (closed Tue, 38 Rue des Abbesses) and at Au Levain d’Antan (closed Sat-Sun, 6 Rue des Abbesses) have won an award for the best baguette in Paris. Cuillier serves a darn good cup of coffee as well as offering baked goods, quiches, sandwiches, and soups (daily, 19 Rue Yvonne le Tac).
$ Coquelicot is part bakery, part café, serving fine baked goods and simple, reasonably priced meals from an ideal setting either inside or out (Tue-Sun until 20:00, closed Mon, 24 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 46 06 18 77).
$$ Le Progrès is straight out of a movie, with a vintage wood-paneled interior and reasonably priced cuisine (daily, 7 Rue des Trois Frères, +33 1 42 64 07 37).
$$ L’Epicerie-Rotisserie Jeanne B, a colorful eatery somewhere between a deli and a restaurant, occupies a sweet spot between Montmartre’s hilltop and Place des Abbesses. It serves fresh dishes from its open kitchen to a discerning clientele (Mon-Sat, serves nonstop from 10:30 until late, Sun until 16:00, 61 Rue Lepic, +33 1 42 51 17 53).
$$ Le Village is a dive bar turned trendy, serving tiny cups of espresso to garbage collectors in the morning and to mustached nonconformists in the afternoon. They have one or two warm plats du jour and several meat-and-cheese-plate combinations (daily 7:00-24:00, 36 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 42 54 99 59).
$$ Le Jardin d’en Face, a simple place with outdoor seating, serves inexpensive and delicious dishes to a mostly local crowd (daily from 20:00, 29 Rue des Trois Frères, +33 1 53 28 00 75).
$$ Le Relais Gascon is a pleasing bistro with a string of tables lining its front, a warm interior, and a focus on cuisine from France’s southwest regions (daily, serves nonstop from noon until late, 6 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 42 58 58 22).
$ La Fourmi, sitting at the bottom of the hill, is a raucous café/bar with lovable rough edges. Open all day, they offer coffee, croissants, and simple, affordable lunches. In the evening, the place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, +33 1 42 64 70 35, Eloise).
Nightlife on Montmartre: Place du Tertre buzzes with tourist activity after hours. Rue des Abbesses and Rue des Trois Frères attract a more local crowd with cafés, bars, and clubs in all shapes and sizes.
The following companies offer $$$$ lunch and dinner cruises (reservations required). Both offer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good views. Ask ahead about proper attire—“smart dress” is required (no denim, shorts, or sport shoes). Earlier cruises (around 18:00) offer cheaper menus than later cruises; prices also vary with seating.
Bateaux Parisiens, considered the best of the lot for dinner, features a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor. There are several departures daily from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the Eiffel Tower (Mo: Bir-Hakeim or RER/Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, +33 1 76 64 14 45, www.bateauxparisiens.com). On board, the middle level is best. Pay the extra euros to get seats next to the windows—it’s more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Bateaux-Mouches, started in 1949, delivers reasonable cuisine, with violin and piano music on its 20:30 trip. You can’t miss its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l’Alma (RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, +33 1 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr).
Dine to soft jazz as you glide along Paris’ most famous boulevards and around its greatest monuments on an elegant double-decker bus restaurant. Dining is on the upper deck well above cars below, affording great views and glimpses into Parisian apartments. Buses are designed from scratch for this purpose with a kitchen, drink holders, big windows, toilets, and more. They move slowly, making drinking and dining a breeze. For about the same price as a dinner cruise on a boat, you can dine for about two hours as Paris passes outside your window. The four-course meal is very good (if not gourmet) and the setting is almost elegant. Two companies offer these tours: Bus Toqué (€65 for lunch, €90-110 for dinner, good wines, mobile +33 6 21 40 20 41, www.bustoque.fr) and Bustronome (+33 9 54 44 45 55, www.bustronome.com).
Here’s a short list of grand (expensive) Parisian cafés, worth the detour only if you’ve got the time and money for such touristy elegance. Think of these cafés as monuments to another time, and learn why they still matter (see sidebar). For tips on enjoying Parisian cafés, review “Cafés and Brasseries” on here of the Practicalities chapter; for locations, see the “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, earlier in this chapter. All are open daily.
(Mo: St-Germain-des-Prés)
Where Boulevard St. Germain meets Rue Bonaparte (and nearby) you’ll find several cafés.
$$$ Les Deux Magots offers prime outdoor seating and a warm interior. Once a favorite of Ernest Hemingway (in The Sun Also Rises, Jake met Brett here) and Jean-Paul Sartre (he and Simone de Beauvoir met here), today the café is filled with international tourists (6 Place St. Germain-des-Prés, +33 1 45 48 55 25).
$$$ Café de Flore, on the next block, feels more literary—wear your black turtleneck. Pablo Picasso was a regular at the time he painted Guernica (172 Boulevard St. Germain-des-Prés, +33 1 45 48 55 26).
$$ Le Procope, Paris’ first and most famous café (1686), was a café célèbre, drawing notables such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Balzac, Zola, Robespierre, Hugo, and two Americans, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. The dining rooms are beautiful, but the cuisine is average (13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, +33 1 40 46 79 00).
(Mo: Vavin)
An eclectic assortment of historic cafés gathers along the busy Boulevard du Montparnasse near its intersection with Boulevard Raspail. Combine these historic cafés with a visit to Luxembourg Garden, which lies just a few blocks away, down Rue Vavin (next to Le Select).
$$$ La Coupole, built in the 1920s, was decorated by aspiring artists (Léger, Brancusi, and Chagall, among others) in return for free meals. It still supports artists with regular showings on its vast walls. This cavernous café feels like a classy train station, with acres of seating, brass decor, and tuxedoed waiters by the dozen. The food is basic and the service impersonal, but you come for the crazy social scene (food served from 12:00 until the wee hours, come early to get better service, 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, +33 1 43 20 14 20).
$$$ Le Select, more easygoing and traditional, was once popular with the more rebellious types—Leon Trotsky, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso loved it. It feels rather conformist today, with good outdoor seating and pleasant tables just inside the door—though the locals hang out at the bar farther inside (99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, across from La Coupole, +33 1 45 48 38 24).
$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, +33 1 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).
