For this project, we set out to find something that was just a little different but still appropriate for the early 1780s. We stumbled upon what the French called a toque, [4] a cross between a turban and a cap. This is a very easy addition to your 1780s headgear repertoire. Incredibly simple and elegant, the toque helps give off that exotic flair that was growing in popularity at the start of the decade.
• 1 yard (1 m) cotton voile or organdy, linen or silk organza
• #30 and #50 silk thread
• 20 inches (51 cm) cording or candlewicking
• 1 yard (1 m) 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm)-wide silk ribbon
• Flowers or feathers
1. Baste the caul edges all the way around ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm), except for the bottom.
2. Baste up the bottom of the caul ¼ inch (6 mm).
3. Fold the caul in half, and using an awl poke a hole just above the bottom basted edge.
4. With heavy silk thread, whip the eyelet open and poke the hole with the awl again to open it back up.
5. Backstitch the cord or candlewicking to each side of the bottom edges of the caul, and pull the tails through the hole.
6. Turn up the bottom edge of the caul over the cord and hem (10 to 12 stitches per inch [2.5 cm]), making sure to not catch the cord.
7. Fold the remaining basted edges up again and hem (10 to 12 stitches per inch [2.5 cm]).
8. On the band piece, baste ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) and hem (10 to 12 stitches per inch [2.5 cm]). Mark the straight sides of the caul just where the sides begin to curve into the top of the caul. Reference the pattern for these points. Fold the caul in half and pin to mark the halfway point at the top.
9. Whip gather over the hemmed edge of the caul from one mark up to the top center point. Repeat with a new thread on the other side.
10. Working one side at a time, pull the thread to tightly gather up the caul, then match the gathered edge to the straight edge of one half of the band. Arrange evenly and pin. Repeat for the other side.
11. Tightly whipstitch the gathered caul and edge of the band together, catching every little bump. This is tedious, but the result will be splendid. When done, open the two pieces out and gently tug to “pop” the stitches into place. Press it flat if needed.
12. Following fashion plates, we opted for a simple 1-inch (2.5-cm)-wide silk ribbon with some small ostrich feathers. Tuck the silk ribbon on both ends where the back attaches to the straight bottom of the caul and make a few tacking stitches. Tack stitch the feather to the side.
