Chapter 18

Vegetable, Cheese, and Bean Dishes

Tomato-Vegetable Soup

Serves 4 to 6

This soup is a good one for using up odds and ends of fresh or frozen vegetables. Homemade stock of any kind brings even more flavor and richness to the table, but any canned or boxed broth or stock can be used. This soup can be made in large batches and frozen.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion, celery root, carrot, and garlic, and sauté for 3 minutes, until the vegetables are slightly tender. Add the stock, tomatoes, chopped vegetables, cannellini beans, basil, oregano, thyme, and rosemary. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.
  2. 2. Return the soup to boiling. Add the greens and boil gently until the greens are tender, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the greens. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

Gazpacho

Serves 6

If you haven’t whipped up a batch of gazpacho once during the summer, then you haven’t done your due diligence as a cook who makes the best of what the garden has to offer. It mystifies me why most gazpacho recipes call for tomato juice without giving the recipe for making the tomato juice in the first place. Why add a commercial juice to your fresh, fresh vegetables? Start this early in the day, or even the day before, so that your homemade tomato juice is icy cold. Then enjoy one of the best dishes of summer vegetables your garden produces.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Set aside 2 tomatoes. Coarsely chop the rest (you should have about 12 cups) and put in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Strain the juice through a food mill to remove the seeds and skins. Season to taste with salt. Pour the juice into a glass jar and refrigerate until cold. You should have about 7 cups of juice.
  2. 2. About an hour before serving, finely chop the remaining 2 tomatoes, garlic, onion, cucumbers, bell peppers, and parsley. If you want to make quick work of it, chop each vegetable in a food processor, using the pulsing function, one type of vegetable at a time.
  3. 3. Combine all the chopped vegetables in a large bowl. Add the oil and sherry. Season generously with salt and pepper and let stand for about 30 minutes so the flavors can blend.
  4. 4. To serve, spoon the vegetables into each bowl and pour the juice over. Alternatively, let your diners make up their own bowls. Leftover vegetables will keep for only 1 or 2 days, but leftover juice will keep for at least a week and can be enjoyed separately.

Tzatziki

Serves 6 to 8

Lamb dishes, especially lamb burgers, beg for tzatziki. But tzatziki works with almost all grilled meats and vegetables, like grilled eggplant. We like it on baked potatoes. Anything you might want to stuff into a pita pocket is enhanced by tzatziki. If your yogurt is thin, drain it for at least 30 minutes in butter muslin or a fine-mesh strainer to achieve a thick consistency. Oh, and you can skip salting the cucumbers and letting them drain only if you plan to serve immediately and not have any leftovers. Over time, the cucumbers will make the tzatziki watery if they aren’t drained first.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the cucumber and salt in a colander and toss to mix. Let drain for 30 to 60 minutes. Transfer the cucumbers to a clean kitchen towel and pat dry.
  2. 2. If you are not using Greek-style yogurt, put the yogurt in a strainer and let drain for about 30 minutes.
  3. 3. Combine the cucumbers, yogurt, and garlic in a large bowl. Season generously with pepper and additional salt, if needed.
  4. 4. Set aside at room temperature to allow the flavors to develop for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Vegetable Gratin

Serves 4 to 6

Vegetable gratins are generally considered a side dish, but they make a fine main course for a vegetarian meal. A gratin is rather rustic-looking in a 2-quart baking dish. But divided into individual serving-size dishes, it looks all dressed up. Gratins can be assembled several hours in advance and baked at the last minute. This is a good use for frozen vegetables.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
  2. 2. If using fresh vegetables, blanch them as needed (see the chart); if using frozen vegetables, thaw them. Set aside.
  3. 3. Lightly butter or oil a 2-quart baking dish or 6 individual gratin dishes. Place individual gratin dishes on a large baking sheet. Spread a little cheese sauce in the dish. Layer the vegetables and onion in the dish. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cover with the remaining sauce. Top with the grated cheese and bread crumbs.
  4. 4. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until heated through and browned on top. Serve hot.

Tempura

Serves 4

Batter-coated, deep-fried vegetables are a treat, especially when you use a variety of vegetables — and maybe some shrimp as well. This recipe also works for squash blossoms.

Batter

Dipping Sauce

Tempura

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the batter, combine the flour, egg yolks, beer, water, and salt in a blender. Process until smooth. Allow to sit for at least 30 minutes.
  2. 2. To make the dipping sauce, combine the soy sauce, water, ginger, garlic, and vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside.
  3. 3. Begin heating 3 to 4 inches of oil or fat in a large, deep saucepan over medium-high heat. Set out the flour in a shallow bowl. Pour the batter into another shallow bowl.
  4. 4. When the oil reaches a temperature of 365°F (185°C), begin frying. One piece at a time, dip the vegetables into the flour, then into the batter. Then slip just a few pieces at a time into the hot oil. Fry until the pieces are golden, 3 to 4 minutes, turning as needed.
  5. 5. Remove from the oil with a spider strainer or slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately, accompanied by the dipping sauce.

Oven-Baked French Fries

Serves 3 to 4

The perfect oven fries are crisp on the outside and tender within. The place to start is with russet, or baking, potatoes. You didn’t grow them? Okay, but next year, think about planting them if you want perfect fries (and mashed potatoes!). It is necessary to soak the potatoes to remove the surface starch. You can impart wonderful flavor with goose fat, duck fat, or beef tallow, but olive oil is a fine, if different-tasting, alternative. You’ll note the recipe serves only 3 to 4. If you have a convection oven, you can make a larger batch, using two half-sheet pans. Otherwise, you will have to make these fries in smaller batches.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Cut the potatoes into slices about 1⁄3 inch thick. Cut the slices into sticks about 1⁄3 inch wide. Put the potatoes into a large bowl of water as you cut. When all the potatoes are sliced, drain off the water and refill with fresh water. Let sit for 30 to 60 minutes.
  2. 2. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Grease a half-sheet pan with some of the melted fat.
  3. 3. Drain the potatoes and lay them out on a thick kitchen towel. Blot them to dry well, using extra towels as needed.
  4. 4. Pile the potatoes on the prepared half-sheet pan, pour the rest of the fat over them, and toss to coat. Spread out the potatoes in a single layer. Sprinkle lightly with fine sea salt and the fresh herbs (if using).
  5. 5. Roast for 40 to 45 minutes, until the potatoes are golden and crispy, rotating the pan once. Shake the pan or turn the potatoes with a pancake turner a few times to help them cook evenly. Drain briefly on paper towels, sprinkle with coarse salt, and serve hot.

Mashed Potatoes

Serves 4 to 6

I’m not sure anyone needs another recipe for mashed potatoes, but I am sure that every homestead kitchen needs to serve mashed potatoes often, because nothing else goes so well with all the stews and braises you will be making. Whether you are buying your meat by the side or raising it yourself, you will probably find yourself with more tough cuts than you might otherwise have chosen if you were stopping by the market on your way home from work every day. No worries. Mashed potatoes are the best accompaniment, and everyone loves them. Adding garlic to the pot with the potatoes lends a buttery, background flavor that elevates mash to a place of honor at your table.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Cover the potatoes and garlic with cold salted water in a medium saucepan. Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Partially remove the lid and boil until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter in a small saucepan or in a microwave until steaming. (If the milk is still warm from the milking, don’t bother to heat it.)
  2. 2. Drain the potatoes. Mash the potatoes in a mixing bowl or pass through a potato ricer into a mixing bowl. Beat the potatoes as you pour in the heated milk mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Saag Paneer

Serves 4 to 6

Paneer, a type of fresh cheese found in Indian cuisine, is ridiculously easy to make (see the recipe), but why make it if you don’t know how to enjoy it? This recipe, basically Indian-style creamed spinach, is a delicious way to get acquainted with paneer. The amount of paneer called for here (24 ounces) is about what you’ll get from 1 gallon of milk. The amount of spinach used is 1 pound fresh, in season. But after blanching, then tray-freezing, that same 24 cups reduces down to 8 cups.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. If using fresh spinach, blanch it, in two or more batches, in a large pot of salted boiling water until the spinach is bright green and wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain in a large colander. If using frozen spinach, drain it in a large colander.
  2. 2. In a large saucepan, melt 1⁄4 cup of the butter over medium heat. Add the curry powder, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, and pepper flakes, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onions, garlic, and ginger, and continue to sauté until the onions are transparent, about 5 minutes.
  3. 3. Stir in the tomatoes and 1 cup of the buttermilk. Squeeze any remaining moisture from the spinach and add to the pot. Season to taste with salt. Reduce the temperature to low.
  4. 4. In a large, heavy, preferably nonstick skillet, melt the remaining 1⁄4 cup butter over medium heat. Add the paneer and spread out in a single layer. Brown on both sides, turning once, about 4 minutes per side. Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon and stir into the spinach. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add buttermilk as needed if the mixture is not saucy enough.
  5. 5. Serve at once, passing the rice or flatbreads at the table.

Goat Cheese Spread

Makes about 11⁄2 cups

I was exposed to cream cheese and olives for the first time in a seventh-grade home economics class. It was as exotic a dish as I had ever tasted up to that point, and it rocked my world. The combination still inspires me, though this take is more complex and interesting. Serve it on a homemade baguette for an appetizer, snack, or lunch.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the broiler. Lightly oil a baking sheet.
  2. 2. Place the pepper on the baking sheet. Broil 4 inches from the heat until charred all over, turning several times. This will take 10 to 20 minutes.
  3. 3. Place the charred pepper in a covered bowl, plastic bag, or paper bag. Seal and allow the pepper to steam for at least 10 minutes to loosen the skin.
  4. 4. Slit the pepper over a medium bowl to catch the juice that runs from it. Scrape or peel the skin and discard. Scrape and discard the seeds and membranes. Throw the pepper into the bowl of a food processor along with the chèvre, olives, garlic, and lemon juice. Process to make a paste. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  5. 5. Pack into a bowl or crock. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Store for up to a week in the refrigerator.

Slow-Rise Sourdough Pizza

Makes two 10- to 14-inch pizzas

The sourdough makes, without a doubt, the very best pizza crust I have ever made. My own homemade pizza crust had been more than adequate for my family for years, but it lacked a certain — I don’t know — professionalism? It was good, but not great. This dough has great flavor and great texture, and it isn’t any harder to make, just slower to rise. How slow depends on the kitchen temperature and, probably, how active your starter is, so a little judgment is called for. In the summer, the dough can rise in as little as 4 hours; in a cold winter kitchen, it will take more like 6 to 8 hours. You can speed up the rising time by increasing the amount of instant yeast or letting the dough rise in a warm spot; you can slow it down by refrigerating the dough. The sauce and the toppings are up to you.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Stir the sourdough starter. Measure out 1 cup and pour into the food processor. Add the hot water, flour, salt, and yeast. Process until the dough forms a ball. If the dough fails to form a ball, add water just 1 teaspoon at a time. Lightly oil your hands and work surface with olive oil and scoop out the dough. Knead the ball of dough on the oiled surface until it is completely smooth.
  2. 2. Oil a large bowl, add the dough, and cover with plastic wrap. (The long rise will result in a dry skin on the dough if you use a towel instead.) Set aside to rise until doubled in bulk, 4 to 6 hours.
  3. 3. When the dough has doubled, cut it in half. If using pizza pans, oil the pizza pans with olive oil. Place one piece of dough on each pan. Gently press and push the dough toward the edges of the pan. When the dough starts to shrink back, let it rest for 15 minutes, covered, then finish pressing and pushing. Repeat with the second pan and second piece of dough. Cover and let rise for 15 minutes.

    If using a baking stone, sprinkle cornmeal on a piece of parchment paper. Form the dough on the paper, stretching the dough to form a 14-inch round. Cover and let rise for 15 minutes.

  4. 4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C), with a baking stone in place if you have one.
  5. 5. For each pizza, spread the dough with a light coating of pizza sauce or olive oil. (I highly recommend using the sauce.) If the pizza is on a pan, simply slide it into the oven. If you have preheated a baking stone, slide the pizza, paper and all, onto a rimless baking sheet or peel and from there slide it onto the baking stone, still on the paper. Bake the pizza for 8 minutes, then pull it out of the oven and spread more sauce on top. Top with cheese, veggies, meats, whatever. Return to the oven and bake until the cheese is melting and bubbling, about 8 more minutes.

Cheese Quiche with Vegetables

Serves 4 to 6

Quiche is an incredibly versatile dish, good for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. The vegetables can be fresh or frozen, and almost any vegetable — or combination of vegetables — works. Any hard cheese will work, though the classics are listed below. If you want something more hearty, you can add 1⁄2 cup diced cooked bacon, store-bought or homemade. For more flavor, add a couple of tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
  2. 2. Blanch the vegetables as needed (see the chart) and set aside.
  3. 3. Bake the crust for 5 minutes, until lightly colored. Remove from the oven and let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C).
  4. 4. Sprinkle 1⁄2 cup of the cheese in the pie crust. Spread the vegetables over the cheese. Sprinkle with the shallots.
  5. 5. Beat the eggs in a 2-cup glass measuring cup. Add enough milk to make 11⁄2 cups. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over the vegetables. Sprinkle the remaining 1⁄4 cup cheese on top.
  6. 6. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until puffed and browned. Let stand for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cheese Tortelloni on a Bed of Greens

Serves 4

Yes, it is cheating to use wonton skins instead of making your own pasta, but the skins do make a delicate case to show off your homemade cheeses. Once the cheese is made (or bought), this is a surprisingly easy dish to make if you get yourself set up properly. Use whatever herbs you have on hand to flavor the cheese filling, but basil is highly recommended. The wonton skins usually come in 12-ounce packages of about 48 skins. Leftover wonton skins can be sliced and cooked as noodles in soup.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the filling, combine the ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan, and herbs in a bowl. Taste and add salt if needed (it might not).
  2. 2. Dust a large baking sheet with a little flour. Set out a small bowl of water and a pastry brush. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  3. 3. To make the tortelloni, work with a few wonton skins at a time, keeping the others covered with plastic wrap. Lay a wonton wrapper in the palm of your left hand (if you are right-handed) or on a clean cutting board. Place a generous teaspoon of filling in the center of the wrapper. Moisten the edges of the wrapper with water and a pastry brush or the tip of your finger. Fold the wrapper in half to form a triangle, pressing firmly on the edges to ensure a tight seal. Wet the two side corners of the triangle, gently pull them together, and press firmly to seal. Set on the baking sheet. Continue until all the filling is used.
  4. 4. Melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Add the kale, stir to coat, then cover and let steam for 4 to 5 minutes.
  5. 5. Meanwhile, add the tortelloni to the boiling water and stir to make sure none are sticking. Continue to boil for 3 to 5 minutes, until the tortelloni are tender and floating to the top. Lift the tortelloni from the boiling water with a spider strainer or slotted spoon and transfer to the skillet with the greens. Toss very gently.
  6. 6. To serve, divide the kale and tortelloni among four pasta bowls. Top with a sprinkling of the Parmesan.

Berbere Lentils

Serves 6

When it comes to lentils, you can’t have enough recipes because, of all the legumes, lentils take the least time to cook and require no presoaking. You may already have a crowd-pleasing lentil soup recipe, but you might like some different flavors for a change. This Ethiopian lentil dish is perfect as both exotic food and homey comfort at the same time. To elevate the humble lentil into a rich vegetarian dish, use plenty of butter or ghee.

There are more than 200 different types of lentils. My preference for this dish is to use red lentils or yellow split peas, but others in my family prefer this dish made with brown lentils.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the lentils, water, and a pinch of salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer until the lentils are tender and most of the water has been absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes. The lentils should be fairly moist but not soupy. If soupy, continue cooking to boil off most of the water.
  2. 2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the berbere and sauté until fragrant, stirring to prevent scorching, about 30 seconds. Add the onions and sauté until completely soft and well coated with the berbere, about 10 minutes.
  3. 3. When the lentils are tender, stir the onions into the pot, scraping the skillet to get all the butter and spice. Stir in and taste. You may need more salt. More butter will make it even more delicious, but you don’t absolutely need it. (When do you really need more butter?) Serve with flatbreads or rice.

Berbere

The key to most Ethiopian stews is the spice mixture berbere (sometimes spelled berberi). Berbere is also the name of the chile on which the spice blend is based. Exact ingredients and proportions vary from cook to cook. For convenience you can buy commercial berbere blends, usually in big-city groceries that cater to large immigrant populations, but there is a significant variation in flavor among the different brands.

If you can’t find any berbere where you live, you can make your own. This 1-cup recipe is made with 1⁄2 cup of ground dried chiles, which means the flavor will vary considerably with the chile you choose. Ground New Mexico chiles are readily available and are a good starting point.

To make 1 cup of berbere, combine the following:

  • 1⁄2 cup ground dried chiles
  • 1⁄4 cup sweet or hot paprika
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1⁄8 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves

Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place and use within 6 months.

Mujaddara

Serves 4

A Syrian friend taught me how to make this dish of lentils, rice, and sautéed onions. Variations are popular throughout the Middle East, all combining lentils, grain, and onions. This simple dish is wonderfully delicious, whether served hot or at room temperature, meaning leftovers are great for lunch the next day.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Cover the lentils with water by about 3 inches in a medium saucepan and add 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle boil and cook until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape, about 25 minutes. Drain.
  2. 2. Meanwhile, combine the rice, the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and water (about 23⁄4 cups for the white rice and about 31⁄4 cups for brown rice, depending on the variety). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, 15 to 40 minutes, depending on the type of rice you use.
  3. 3. While the rice and lentils cook, heat the butter over medium-low heat in a large saucepan. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are golden, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 3 more minutes.
  4. 4. Add the cooked lentils and rice to the onions. Add the buttermilk to moisten and bind the mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

French Lentils in Mustard Sauce

Serves 4

French bistro-style cooking often features lentils as a side dish, and this is a lovely one to accompany any sort of meat or poultry. (It also makes a fine vegetarian main dish if you substitute vegetable stock for the chicken stock.) Use French green or black lentils, which hold their shape well. The dish gets better with age, so make it early in the day, if possible, and reheat before serving.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the lentils, water, bay leaf, and thyme in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the lentils are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain the lentils and return them to the saucepan; discard the bay leaf.
  2. 2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and carrots and sauté until the carrots are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine to the skillet and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and the mustard. Boil, whisking constantly, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Stir into the lentils along with the parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Red Chile Beans

Serves 6

As with many bean dishes, the meat is optional but adds a really satisfying flavor that lifts the beans from side dish to main dish. Serve the beans plain, with flatbreads, with brown rice and a sprinkling of fresh cilantro, or folded into tacos along with your favorite taco fixings. The chile sauce (on the next page) doesn’t take much time to make, but in a pinch you can substitute a can of commercial enchilada sauce; Hatch is a good brand.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the beans with the water in a large saucepan. Add the onion, bay leaves, and ham hock (if using). Cover and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the beans are very, very tender, 11⁄2 to 21⁄2 hours.
  2. 2. Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid and the ham hock (if using). Combine the beans with enchilada sauce and enough cooking liquid to cover the beans. Remove the meat from the ham hock (if using) and add to the beans. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. Reheat and serve hot.

Red Chile Enchilada Sauce

Makes 11⁄2 to 2 cups

I use this sauce a lot: for making enchiladas, for braising Mexican-style meats, and for flavoring beans. The chiles you use can be varied, but New Mexico chiles should form the basis of the sauce. I think the sauce is perfect (giving just a slight burn) with four New Mexico chiles, three ancho chiles, and one chipotle chile. Obviously, it is a good idea to limit the number of super-hot chiles you use, unless you and yours have a very high tolerance for spice. You can make large batches of this sauce and freeze the extra, or you can pressure-can the sauce (do not use a boiling-water bath) for 60 minutes for pints or 75 minutes for quarts.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Rinse the chiles under running water. Combine the chiles in a saucepan with the onion and garlic and cover generously with water. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and cover. Let stand, covered, between 1⁄2 hour and 4 hours, until the chiles are soft.
  2. 2. Drain the chiles, onions, and garlic, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Pull the stems off the chiles and gently remove as many of the seeds as you can, being careful not to remove the delicate flesh also.
  3. 3. Put the chiles, onion, and garlic in a blender and pour in the reserved soaking liquid. Blend until puréed.
  4. 4. Pour into a strainer over a bowl and rub through, pressing out as much liquid as you can. Discard the solids (skin and seeds).
  5. 5. Heat the lard in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin and oregano and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add the puréed chile mixture and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes. Add the vinegar. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
  6. 6. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Tuscan White Beans and Kale

Serves 8 to 10

The point of this dish is to slowly, slowly, slowly cook the beans and meat together, then wilt in the greens. Any tough cut of meat can be used. Use up to 3 pounds if the meat is mostly bone (pork neck, oxtail, trotters) or just 1 pound for anything meaty (country-style pork ribs, pork shank, beef short ribs). Kale is classic in this dish, but collards, cabbage, mustard greens, spinach, or Swiss chard can be used; adjust the cooking time as needed.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the beans, pork, stock, water, garlic, rosemary, sage, and salt in a slow cooker. Set on high and cook for 6 hours, or until the beans are tender. (If you combine these ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil before transferring to the slow cooker, you can knock 1 to 2 hours off the cooking time.) Or combine these ingredients in a large Dutch oven, bring to a boil on the stovetop, then cover and bake at 250°F (120°C) for 4 to 6 hours. Season to taste with more salt, if needed, and pepper.
  2. 2. About 15 minutes before serving, reheat, if necessary. Stir in the kale and cook on high in a slow cooker or on top of the stove in a Dutch oven until the kale is wilted and tender, about 10 minutes.
  3. 3. To serve, place two slices of bread in each dish (shallow pasta bowls work well). Ladle the bean mixture on top.

Kale Salad with Catalina Dressing

Serves 4 to 6

Kale salads are an Internet phenomenon. Some enterprising cook posted his or her idea, other people followed, and now we all enjoy them. Early posters may have expressed their understanding that you had to massage the oil into the kale, or that it was the vinegar you had to massage with. But the reality is that any liquid or semiliquid dressing works as a lubricant for the rough handling that is required to break down the cell walls of kale. A hearty, robustly flavored dressing will work, but here’s a tip: slightly limp, aging kale works best. So harvest your kale early in the day (at least) and leave it out at room temperature if you can. The dressing here is a classic for taco salads; it works with any type of salad you can imagine. A maple-soy vinaigrette works equally well.

Dressing

Salad

Instructions

  1. 1. To make the dressing, combine the ketchup, water, vinegar, oil, onion, sugar, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in a blender and process until smooth. Pour into a large bowl. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
  2. 2. Chop the kale leaves into thin ribbons and add to the bowl with the dressing. With your hands, toss the leaves with the dressing. Continue to toss and squeeze the kale leaves, rubbing and massaging them until the kale is tender and limp. This will take about 5 minutes, so keep at it — it’s almost impossible to be too rough with it.
  3. 3. Toss in the nuts. The salad can be served immediately but will hold up for at least 1 day in the refrigerator.