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Explore Sirmione, steeped in history and enticingly set on a finger-like peninsula pointing into the southern end of Lake Garda. This walk takes you from the fairy-tale Scaligeri castle to the evocative ruins of the Grottoes of Catullus, one of the finest Roman patrician residences in northern Italy.

DISTANCE: 3.5km (2 miles)

TIME: A half day

START/END: Rocca Scaligera

POINTS TO NOTE: Sirmione’s Old Town is closed to traffic except for residents and hotel guests, so park as near as you can to the entrance by the drawbridge. In season and on Fridays (market day) and Sundays this could be in a car park 10–15 mins walk away. A little electric train links the centre with the Grotte di Catullo, though it’s not far to walk. Be prepared for narrow alleys packed with tourists, especially from May to September. Pick up a map and other information from the tourist office (www.visitsirmione.com) near the entrance of the historic centre at Viale Marconi.

The Romans were drawn to the invigorating waters around Lake Garda and, impressed by Sirmione’s hot, sulphurous springs, developed the spa as a sybaritic retreat. The conquering Scaligeri counts from Verona recognised Sirmione’s military potential and built a medieval fortress from which to govern the southern part of the lake. From the 15th until the end of the 18th century the town was subject to Venetian rule. In spite of recent over-commercialisation, it retains much of its architectural grace.

Rocca Scaligera

To enter the historic quarter, cross the drawbridge over the duck and fish-filled moat for the 13th-century Rocca Scaligera 1 [map] (Piazza Castello; museilombardia.cultura.gov.it; charge). Crowned by swallow-tailed battlements and encircled by water, the fort has guarded the entrance to the historic centre for eight centuries. It was built by the Veronese Scaligeri dynasty, who ruled Verona from 1260–1387. In addition to the moat, the castle features well-preserved bastions and crenellations and a fortified dock. The main attraction is wandering around the battlements and climbing up the towers for views. A recognisable feature of the tyrannical Scaligeri dynasty are castles with fishtail battlements. Sirmione’s Rocca Scaligera is a fine example, but there are several others dotted around Lake Garda.

Opposite the castle, you will find the tiny 14- to 15th-century church of Santa Anna della Rocca. It was also constructed by the Scaligeri family, and for centuries served as a place of pilgrimage.

Via Vittorio Emanuele

From the castle, follow the flow along Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main street leading northwards, and take the first right by the Bar Scaligeri, then under the arch and right again for the pretty 15th-century church of Santa Maria Maggiore 2 [map] (free), which overlooks a pebble beach. The church has a pretty portico which incorporates a Roman capital. The lakeside promenade by the beach provides a peaceful route to the Grottoes of Catullus for those who prefer to steer clear of the crowded centre. Follow the beach to the Lido delle Bionde (www.lidodellebionde.it/; charge), where you can swim in the lake, take out a pedalo or have a snack at the café. The Grottoes of Catullus are signposted from the lido. When the lake water is low, you can walk right around the peninsula below the grottoes.)

On the same street as the church you will find La Fiasca, see 1 [map]. The surrounding web of tiny alleys abounds in gelaterias, overpriced art galleries, souvenirs and outlets selling chic handcrafted jewellery.

Via Vittorio Emanuele continues northwards to the modern spa centre of Terme di Sirmione (www.termedisirmione.com; charge) on Piazza Piatti. Here the hot sulphur springs – bubbling waters are channelled up from the bottom of the lake – are utilised in the treatment of an assortment of respiratory complaints.

Sirmione’s spas

In 1889 a Venetian diver called Procopio inserted a long pipe into the lake rocks near the Grottoes of Catullus and released a jet of hot sulphurous water. The discovery led to the delicate operation of laying 300m (984ft) of pipes to bring up the steaming waters from the bottom of the lake. Sirmione’s first spa centre opened in 1900, and today around 650,000 guests arrive annually for treatment. The waters are rich in sodium chloride, bromine and iodine, and are used for treating respiratory and rheumatic diseases, as well as for beauty and well-being programmes. The Terme combines spa centres and four hotels with thermal facilities. The Aquaria wellness centre offers access for two or five hours plus a variety of day pass programmes (up to six days), where you can make the most of thermal pools, bubbling beds, hydro-massage, and aromo-chromatic showers. Alternatively, if you want to spare the expense and time, just pop into a pharmacy and purchase a bottle of Acqua di Sirmione or Sirmiogel – both composed of 100 per cent Sirmione spa water.

From Piazza Piatti take Via Punta Staffalo, which leads to the western shore. Turn right along Via San Pietro, a turning to the north, which brings you to the church of San Pietro 3 [map]. This Romanesque church, the oldest in Sirmione, was constructed on top of the remains of a Roman temple and remodelled with recycled Roman bricks.

A lane links the church to the Via Caio Valerio Catullo, leading north to the Grottoes of Catullus.

Grottoes of Catullus

Around the end of the promontory, medieval Sirmione can be explored to its Roman core. Crowning the rocky top of the peninsula, and once reached via a triumphal arch and barrel-vaulted arcades, the Grotte di Catullo 4 [map] (Via Catullo; www.museilombardia.cultura.gov.it; charge) are the remains of a vast Roman villa and spa complex, constituting one of the most important examples of a Roman patrician residence in northern Italy.

The site was named after Rome’s greatest lyric poet, who was said to have languished here when rejected by Lesbia, his mistress in Rome. However, although the pleasure-seeking poet makes reference to a home in Sirmione close to his heart, the general consensus of opinion is that this villa dates from a slightly later period.

Marking the entrance to the ruins is a museum (wintertime open 8.30am–7.30pm, rest of the year hours are as Grottoes of Catullus), which displays some beautiful fresco fragments and mosaics discovered at the villa, along with grave finds and sculptural fragments from other parts of Sirmione.

The ruins cover some 2ha (5 acres) of the promontory and are set high above the lake amid olive and cypress trees. A geometric puzzle, the ruins reveal a complex interplay of passages and porticoes – a sensitive blending of brick and rough-hewn stone. The most imposing remains are on the north side, with rooms up to 12m (39ft) long. Deciphering the rooms on the various levels is not easy, but there are plaques on the site showing how the villa was constructed, what the rooms were for and how it would have looked in all its glory. In any event, it is lovely just to wander around the ruins and admire the views.

Eating options

For restaurants, head back towards the castle. If your feet are weary at the end of the day, take the little Trenino Elettrico (electric train), which provides a shuttle service (for a small charge) between the Grottoes of Catullus and the Terme Catullo at Piazza Piatti.

Food and Drink

1 [map] La Fiasca

Via Santa Maria Maggiore 11; www.trattorialafiasca.it

This central trattoria is a cut above the average tourist Sirmione fare. No-frills classics, regional dishes and home-made pastas and fresh fish are served. €€

2 [map] Osteria Al Torcol

Via San Salvatore 30; 030-990 4605

Authentic home-cooked fare at reasonable prices makes this a rare find for tourist-packed Sirmione. It is small, family-run and highly popular. Book in advance if you can, ideally for the vine-clad garden on a warm evening. €€