A combination of lake cruises and mountain railway, crossing from Italy into Switzerland, this tour offers some of the most sensational scenery in Northern Europe. A three-hour ferry trip is followed by a narrow-gauge railway ride through the Ticino mountains.
DISTANCE: Ferry: 61km (38 miles), train: 96km (60 miles)
TIME: A full day, possibly two
START: Stresa ferry landing stage
END: Stresa railway station
POINTS TO NOTE: Tickets include a lake cruise and rail journey. Book in advance, especially in high season. Contact www.vigezzinacentovalli.com/esperienze/lago-maggiore-express.html. Passports are essential. A two-day ticket allows more time to explore the upper lake and mountain villages and includes a free lake pass. Operates daily except Wed. Mid-April to mid-October.
Begin your tour from any ferry stop on Lake Maggiore, taking the cruise north to Locarno in Switzerland.
From Stresa, the triple-decker battello ferry skirts the Borromean Islands and then stops at the resort of Baveno 1 [map] . The next stop is Pallanza 2 [map] , where grandiose villas and a garden-lined promenade overlook the lake. From neighbouring Intra, the boat crosses to Laveno on the eastern side of the lake.
The main resorts of the northern lake lie on the sunny western shores. Cannero Riviera 3 [map] occupies a charming site amid subtropical flora, looking over to picturesque islets with ruins of the Malpaga castles. Dating from the 12th century, the castles belonged to the five Mazzarditi brothers, brigands who plundered local villages. The Visconti destroyed their strongholds in 1414, then a century later, the Borromeo family built fortifications here – the remains of which you see today. Cannobio 4 [map], the last town before the Swiss border, has steep medieval streets behind a long promenade of pastel-washed façades. If you are on a two-day ticket, this is definitely a place to explore.
Lake Maggiore Express in the Centovalli valley
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Lake Maggiore Express
Across the Swiss border, the first stop is Brissago, which is noticeably more modern than the nearby Italian villages. The larger of the two Isole Brissago 5 [map] (Brissago Islands) is home to the Parco Botanico del Cantone Ticino, created in 1883 by Baroness Antoinette de Saint-Léger and full of exotic flora. She set up residence here and inspired artists, writers and musicians to visit the island.
Ascona
The boat heads on to the little resort of Ascona 6 [map], where multicoloured houses line the waterfront. Paul Klee, Hermann Hesse and Isadora Duncan were among those lured by its charms.
Over the river from Ascona lies Locarno 7 [map], a southwest-facing town with a mild climate and flourishing parks and gardens. Pick up a map when you disembark, or turn left for the tourist office, and locate the nearby station where you will take the train to Domodossola. On a day trip you are likely to have between 1.5–3.5 hours in Locarno, depending on which train you opt for. The 52km (32.5-mile) railway line from Locarno to Domodossola opened in 1923. Until recently, passengers travelled in vintage carriages with wooden interiors – more romantic but less comfortable than today’s electric trains.
A fifth of Lake Maggiore lies in Switzerland, in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. The resorts are Italian in feel, with their bright piazzas and alfresco eateries, but there is a marked Swiss efficiency about them: while the Italian lakeside villages retain their ancient patina, façades in Switzerland look as though they were painted yesterday. You may be tempted by the stylish shops in Locarno; if so, remember that the local currency is Swiss francs, and although euros are accepted here, you will usually receive change in Swiss francs – often at a poor exchange rate.
The heart of Locarno is the porticoed Piazza Grande, just back from the lakefront, where you can sit at cafés and people-watch. In summer, this is the venue for open-air concerts, and in August, it hosts the International Film Festival. From the piazza, follow the lanes running west of the square for the Città Vecchia (Old Town) and Via Cittadella, where La Cittadella, see 1 [map], serves excellent pizzas and fish.
The sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso
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Refreshment
You may arrive in Locarno too late to lunch in some of the restaurants, but many cafés and pizzerias open all day. The most inviting spots are Piazza Grande or lakeside Viale Verbano, where Al Pozz, see 2 [map], is open all day for full meals, as is neighbouring Centenario .
Sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso
For stunning views of the lake and Alps, take the funicular (www.funicolarelocarno.ch; 200m/yds northwest of the landing stage, daily starting from around 8am, with the last service in the late afternoon or evening – exact timings depending on the month; charge) that climbs up the hill every 15 or 30 minutes (depending on the season), or walk up the pathway flanked by chapels to the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso, a Capuchin monastery founded in 1480. Here, the Ristorante Funicolare, see 3 [map], is a great spot to admire the view.
The Centovalli trains depart from below Locarno’s railway station (Via della Stazione), which is 200m/yds north of the landing stage. Follow directions for Funivia Locarno–Domodossola, and when you board the train, secure a seat on the near side for the best views. Once you have emerged from the tunnel, you will be travelling through a wild, spectacular region; the little train snakes its way slowly around steep, wooded valleys, passing waterfalls and crossing precarious-looking bridges and viaducts above dramatic gorges. Deepest of all is the gorge of Verscio, a haven for bungee-jumpers.
An interior detail of the sanctuary
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1 [map] La Cittadella
Via Cittadella 18, Locarno, www.cittadella.ch
Downstairs is an informal pizzeria, while upstairs is a smart seafood restaurant; the food at both is delicious. Booking advised. €€
2 [map] Al Pozz
Viale Verbano 21, Locarno, www.alpozz.ch
Open all day for pizzas and Mediterranean cuisine, Al Pozz has great views of Lake Maggiore and the mountains from its terrace. Pollo nel cestello (chicken in a basket) and spaghetti clams are specialities. €€
3 [map] Ristorante Funicolare
Via Santuario 4, Orselina, Locarno, www.ristorantefunicolare.ch
Perched above Locarno, at the top of the Sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso, this is worth a trip for the views alone. The menu is likely to feature lake fish, as well as meat and pasta and vegetarian dishes. The outdoor barbequed fish is particularly good. Alternatively, just go for coffee and cake. €€
Mountain hamlets
The railway follows the course of the River Melezza, stopping at neat mountain hamlets, with their chalet-style houses and lofty steeples. Intragna 8 [map] has a lovely 16th-century bridge, as well as a viaduct (another spot for bungee-jumping). (If you are on the two-day trip, you can take a cable-car up to Costa and Pila from here.)
After a customs-check at Camedo 9 [map] on the border, you are back in Italy. From here, the train climbs up to Santa Maria Maggiore ) [map], which, at 830m (2,723ft), is the highest point of the journey. The village is home to a several art galleries.
The trip ends at Domodossola ! [map], not far from the Simplon Pass. From here you should transfer to the normal Trenitalia rail service for Stresa. The final lap of the journey takes just half an hour.
Colourful Ascona
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