A lashing—square, diagonal, or round—is a means of binding two or more crossed or adjacent poles with rope; the same principle is applied to ladders, floors, and planks. A coil is the term used for rope that has been wound into neat circles or loops, either ready for use (the climber’s and alpine coils), or for storing (the figure-eight coil).
This lashing is used whenever two spars bear upon one another, no matter what the angle (it does not have to be a right-angle). If they tend to spring apart, use a diagonal lashing (see pages 266–267).
Tie a clove hitch (see page 150) around the vertical spar, directly beneath the horizontal one (1), then “dog” (that is, twist) the end around the standing part of the lashing, for added security. Lead the working end under and around the horizontal spar, thus supporting it, across in front of the vertical spar, then down and around the horizontal one again (2). Follow this initial lead around at least three times—more if the spars or poles are thick, and the lashing is thin—exerting tension every step of the way (3). Change direction and take two or three frapping turns between the poles (4), to grip and further tighten the lashing itself. Tie off with another clove hitch (5), then contrive to tuck the end once or twice through any available space close to the knot (6).
This lashing is “diagonal” because it binds and braces poles that cross on a diagonal, whatever their angle of intersection, and that would otherwise tend to spring apart. The diagonal lashing could replace a square lashing (see pages 264–265), but a square lashing cannot be used instead of a diagonal one.
Start with a timber hitch (see page 148) tied around the two spars and tightened to pull them together (1). Then take three turns around at right-angles to the initial knot (2), and a further three turns at right-angles to these (3). Make a couple of frapping turns, taken between the spars, to further tighten the lashing (4, 5). Finish off with a clove hitch (see page 150) (6).
The other name for this seizing is a sheer (or shear) lashing. The name comes from its use by sailors, construction workers, wilderness pioneers, scouts, and guides to lash up a triangular A-frame of poles (known as sheer legs) for rigging a block and tackle. A couple of these lashings will also serve to combine short lengths into longer ones by tying two or more together.
Begin with a clove hitch (see page 150) in the standing end around one pole (1). Then take the working end eight or nine times, firmly but not too tightly, around both poles (2). Secure the arrangement with two or three frapping turns taken between the poles, and finish off with a second clove hitch (3). Repeat the process further down the poles (4). Opening the two legs of an A-frame (5) will, of course, tighten a single lashing. Any looseness in a pair of lashings on poles that remain in line with one another can be eliminated only by driving one or more wooden wedges into any available spaces.
Given an ample supply of suitable cordage and bamboo or wooden staves, it would be possible to construct a useful, weight-bearing, ad hoc ladder with this lashing. It could equally well be used to create a robust garden trellis or a makeshift raft.
Take two similar lengths of line and, at the top of each upright or riser, tie a clove hitch (see pages 150–151) and reinforce it with a couple of half hitches (see page 130) (1). Locate the first transverse spar or rung and wrap the line on each side beneath it for support and tightly around the upright (2). Cross each working end over its own standing part and tie clove hitches on the outer ends of the crosspiece (3, 4). With the working end, lever these knots tight. Repeat as often as required (5).
Use this lashing to secure a series of cross-members (for instance, logs or planks) to underlying joists or other supporting beams. In this way anything from a clotheshorse to a log cabin or an ocean-going raft can be created.
Anchor the standing end with a clove hitch (see page 150) reinforced by “dogging” (winding) the loose end around the standing part of the lashing (1). Lead the cord over the first cross-member, then down beside the joist or beam, and pull a bight around beneath it and up on the other side (2). Place this bight over the end of the second cross-member, take the working end down the same side (3), then pull another bight up to loop over the end of a third cross-member (4). Repeat the process as necessary, tying off with another clove hitch (5, 6).
A tripod improvised from poles or staves is a useful bit of gear for campers or explorers, and an integral part of many pioneering projects that occupy the energies and initiative of Scout groups.
Lay the three poles down alongside one another and apply the lashing about 12–18 inches (30–45 cm) from the ends. Begin with a clove hitch (see page 150), and “dog” (twist) the knot’s short end around its standing part (1). Next, interweave the working end over-under-over, back and forth, in a series of racking or figure-eight turns (2, 3). Change direction and add two or three frapping turns between each pair of poles to tighten the lashing (4, 5). Finish off with another clove hitch (6). Tuck the end for added security.
This adaptation of the constrictor knot (see page 153) is a neat and minimal way to seize long, thin items at right-angles to one another—for instance, garden trelliswork or lightweight loads (such as canoe paddles) to a car’s luggage rack.
Take a short piece of cord and pass the working end in a figure-eight around the two items (1), crossing on top, to enclose both pieces to be seized (2). Lead the end over its own standing part to tuck under-under (3). Tighten the knot by pulling on both ends at once (4).
The Turk’s head family of knots is the most extensive there is, several thick manuals having been written about them. Tied in suitable material, this basic specimen—with its three parts (or leads) and four overlapping bights at each edge—can serve as an attractive whipping on rope, as a sliding clasp for a neck scarf, a napkin ring, a finger ring, or bracelet, or can seize a hose to a garden faucet. Its uses, like the finished knot, are apparently endless.
Make a turn around the object and cross the working end over the standing part (1). From right to left, go over one strand and under the next (2). Pull one knot segment over the other, as shown, then take the working end left to right over one and under one (3). To complete the knot, bring the working end around and tuck it under the rim of the knot, alongside its own tail (4, 5). By following the original lead, going over where the guide strand goes over (and under where it goes under), the single-ply knot can now be doubled and tripled (6).
Enabling any outdoor pioneer to walk, scramble, climb, or descend with both hands free, this way of carrying a climbing rope is also known as a backpack coil.
Roughly measure out three arm-spans of rope and leave this lying on the ground. Drape the remainder, in accordion folds or pleats, across one arm (1). Pick up the unused length of rope and “marry” it to a similar length at the other end (2), then wrap both ends three or four times around the coil, a little above the middle (3). Pull a bight through the top of the coil and tuck both ends through it (4). To carry the coil, take one rope’s end over each shoulder (5), crossing them on the chest and passing them around the back, to grip and hold the coil (6). Bring the ends to the front once again and tie them off at the waist with a square knot (see page 10).
Some coils are for rope that is to be stored or hung up out of harm’s way for a period of time; others are intended to keep a rope handily neat while it is carried, and for imminent use. This coil is one of the latter.
Coil the rope and, having brought both ends together at the top, bend one back to create a bight (1). Then take a series of snug wrapping turns with the other end around it (2). Finally, tuck the working end through what remains of the initial bight, and pull on the other end to trap it securely (3).
A little more time and trouble must be taken to make this coil, but, assuming it will not be needed at a few seconds’ notice, the extra wrapping turns keep the rope tangle-free until it is required again.
Coil the rope in the usual way, but tie a reef or square knot (see page 10) at the bottom of the coil in both long ends (1). Wrap each end clockwise around and up its own side of the coil (2), until they meet at the top, then tie another reef knot (3). Go over the wrapping turns and work them snug, removing any slack by retying the final reef knot (4).
This unusual coil, which can be arranged and carried atop a knapsack, is sometimes referred to as a pack coil.
Make a longer coil than is customary and double it over; then form a small loop in one end (1). Pass this end around behind both legs of the coil (2), bring it to the front once more, and tuck it (from front to back) through its own loop (3).
The braid knot resembles a three-strand pigtail braid, but is tied with a single piece of cord. Use it as ornamentation for a whistle, knife, or stopwatch lanyard; tie it around a friend’s wrist as a bracelet; or contrive a makeshift handle for a suitcase with it.
Arrange the cord in three parts, with a collar made by two strands around the standing part, then bring the left-hand section over to displace the middle one (1). Next bring the right-hand section over to become the middle part (2), and continue this process (left over to middle, right over to middle). A sloppy mirror-image of the emerging braid will occur at the bottom of the working bight, but pull out the loose end periodically to untangle this (3). When only a small loop remains, make a final locking tuck with the working end (4).
This is a quick and easy way to coil a rope that is to be stored, rather than held ready for immediate use. The name comes from the way the loop is arranged, not the way in which the rope itself is coiled.
Bring both ends of the rope together and coil it, doubled, in a clockwise direction (1). When the bight comes to hand, take it back in a small loop, around behind the coil (2). Then tuck it, front to back, through its own loop (3). Hang the coil up from the smaller loop (4).
This chain plait (or sinnet, as sailors say) is also referred to as single trumpet or bugle cord, because of its use as an adornment on the uniforms of marching bands. Children enjoy pulling the free end to watch a length of it unravel before their eyes.
Beginning at the standing end of 6–8 ft (2–3 m) of cord, make a slip knot (1). Insert a finger and pull a second bight through the one already formed (2). Repeat the process until all of the cord has been used up, tucking the working end through the last bight to lock all the preceding ones in place (3).
Beaver tail (double chain plait)
This is a bulkier and more good-looking version of the daisy chain, single trumpet, or bugle cord (see page 287); it is, therefore, also referred to as a “double trumpet, or bugle, cord.”
Close to what will be the standing end of the cord, form a couple of overhand loops, then pluck a bight from the long working end through both of them (1). Pull another bight through the next two loops (2), and repeat this process as long as cord and enthusiasm last (3). Remove unwanted slack before drawing out each new bight. Finally, make a locking tuck with what remains of the working end, by pushing it through the two last bights that were made (4).
A coil of rope or hank of cord can be expensive, and you should not cut it merely because the job in hand requires less than the full length. Of the various shortening knots known as “sheepshanks” (perhaps because each one resembles a chunky legbone), this is one of the more secure examples and will hold any surplus line not required for the time being. It is yet another of those knots that can—and often must—be tied in the bight.
Grasp the unneeded slack in a loose S- or Z-shape, and in one end form an uncompleted overhand knot (1). Tuck the nearest bight through this layout in an over-under-over sequence (2). Turn the work end-for-end and repeat the process (3). Tighten the resulting twin knots (4).
