Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor
%063 / Pop 185,000 (town)
Siem Reap is the life-support system for the temples of Angkor, the eighth wonder of the world. Although in a state of slumber from the late 1960s until a few years ago, the town has woken up with a jolt and is now one of the regional hotspots for wining and dining, shopping and schmoozing. The ultimate fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion, the temples of Angkor are a source of inspiration and profound pride to all Khmers. No traveller to the region will want to miss their extravagant beauty and spine-tingling grandeur. One of the most impressive ancient sites on earth, Angkor has the epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the Taj Mahal and the symbolism and symmetry of the Egyptian pyramids, all rolled into one. Angkor is a place to be savoured, not rushed, and Siem Reap is the perfect base from which to plan your adventures.
8Getting Around
There are endless options when it comes to exploring Angkor. Bicycles are a great way to get to and around the temples, which are linked by flat roads that are in good shape. Just make sure you drink plenty of water at every opportunity.
Another environmentally friendly option is to explore on foot. There are obvious limitations, but exploring Angkor Thom’s walls or walking to and from Angkor Wat are both feasible. Don’t forget to buy an entrance ticket.
Zippy and inexpensive motos (about US$10 per day, more for distant sites) are the most popular form of transport around the temples. Drivers accost visitors from the moment they set foot in Siem Reap, but they often end up being friendly and knowledgeable. Guesthouses are also a good source of experienced driver-guides.
Remorks (around US$15 a day, more for distant sites) take a little longer than motos but off er protection from the rain and sun.
Even more protection is offered by cars, though these tend to isolate you from the sights, sounds and smells. Hiring a car in Siem Reap costs about US$30 for a day cruising around Angkor; US$50 to Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei; US$70 to Beng Mealea; and US$90 out to Koh Ker.
Siem Reap សៀមរាប
Siem Reap is the comeback kid of Southeast Asia. It has reinvented itself as the epicentre of the new Cambodia, with more hotels and guesthouses than temples, world-class wining and dining, and sumptuous spas. At its heart, it remains a charming town with rural qualities. Old French shophouses, shady tree-lined boulevards and a winding river are attractive remnants of the past, while five-star hotels, air-con buses and international restaurants point to a glitzy future.
1Sights
oAngkor National MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; សារមន្ទីរជាតិអង្គរ; %063-966601; www.angkornationalmuseum.com; 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd; adult/child under 1.2m US$12/6; 
h8.30am-6pm May-Sep, to 6.30pm Oct-Apr; 
W)
Looming large on the road to Angkor is the Angkor National Museum, a state-of-the-art showpiece on the Khmer civilisation and the majesty of Angkor. Displays are themed by era, religion and royalty as visitors move through the impressive galleries. After a short presentation, visitors enter the Zen-like Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas, which has a fine collection of images. Other exhibits include the pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla; the great Khmer kings; Angkor Wat; Angkor Thom; and the inscriptions.
oArtisans Angkor – Les Chantiers ÉcolesARTS CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; សិប្បករអង្គរ; www.artisansdangkor.com; h7.30am-6.30pm) 
S 
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Siem Reap is the epicentre of the drive to revitalise Cambodian traditional culture, which was dealt a harsh blow by the Khmer Rouge and the years of instability that followed its rule. Les Chantiers Écoles teaches wood- and stone-carving techniques, traditional silk painting, lacquerware and other artisan skills to impoverished young Cambodians. Free guided tours explaining traditional techniques are available daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm. Tucked down a side road, the school is well signposted from Sivatha St.
oCambodia Landmine MuseumMUSEUM
(សារមន្ទីរគ្រាប់មីនកម្ពុជា និងមូលនិធិសង្គ្រោះ; www.cambodialandminemuseum.org; US$5; h7.30am-5pm)
Established by DIY de-miner Aki Ra, this museum has eye-opening displays on the curse of landmines in Cambodia. The collection includes mines, mortars, guns and weaponry, and there is a mock minefield where visitors can attempt to locate the deactivated mines. Proceeds from the museum are ploughed into mine-awareness campaigns. The museum is about 25km from Siem Reap, near Banteay Srei.
Banteay Srei Butterfly CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE
(មជ្ឈមណ្ឌលសួនមេអំបៅបន្ទាយស្រី; www.angkorbutterfly.com; adult/child US$5/2; h9am-5pm) S
The Banteay Srei Butterfly Centre is one of the largest fully enclosed butterfly centres in Southeast Asia, with more than 30 species of Cambodian butterflies fluttering about. It is a good experience for children, as they can see the whole life cycle from egg to caterpillar to cocoon to butterfly.
CambolacARTS CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ខេមបូឡាក់; %088 355 6078; http://cambolac.com; Wat Polanka; h8-11.30am & 1-5pm Mon-Sat)F
Cambodia has a long tradition of producing beautiful lacquerware, although the years of upheaval resulted in some of the skills being lost. Cambolac is a social enterprise helping to restore Cambodia’s lacquer tradition and create a new contemporary scene. You can tour the workshop to learn more about the perfectionist approach required to produce a piece. Most of the guides are hearing-impaired and a tour allows some great interaction and the opportunity to learn some basic sign language.
Wat BoBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; វត្តបូ; Tep Vong St; h6am-6pm)F
This is one of the town’s oldest temples and has a collection of well-preserved wall paintings from the late 19th century depicting the Reamker, Cambodia’s interpretation of the Ramayana. The monks here regularly chant sometime between 4.30pm and 6pm and this can be a spellbinding and spiritual moment if you happen to be visiting.
2Activities
Foot massage is a big hit in Siem Reap, hardly surprising given all those steep stairways at the temples. There are half a dozen or more places offering a massage for about US$6 to US$8 an hour on the strip running northwest of Psar Chaa. Some are more authentic than others, so dip your toe in first before selling your sole. For an alternative foot massage, try a fish spa, which sees cleaner fish nibble away at your dead skin – heaven for some, tickly as hell for others. Places have sprung up all over town, including along Pub St.
oAngkor ZiplineZIPLINE
(MAP; %096 999 9100; www.angkorzipline.com; short/full course US$60/100; h6am-5pm)
Angkor provides the ultimate backdrop for this zipline experience, although you won’t actually see the temples while navigating the course. Formerly Flight of the Gibbon Angkor, the Angkor Zipline is located inside the Angkor protected area. The course includes 10 ziplines, 21 treetop platforms, four skybridges and an abseil finish. There is a panoramic rest stop halfway and highlights include a tandem line for couples.
Angkor Wat PuttGOLF
(MAP; %012 302330; www.angkorwatputt.com; Chreav District; adult/child US$5/4; h8am-8pm)
Crazy golf to the Brits among us, this home-grown minigolf course contrasts with the big golf courses out of town. Navigate minitemples and creative obstacles for 14 holes and win a beer for a hole-in-one. Recently relocated to a more remote location, it is well worth seeking out.
Krousar ThmeyMASSAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.krousar-thmey.org; Charles de Gaulle Blvd; 1hr massage US$7; h9am-9pm) S
Massages here are performed by blind masseurs. In the same location is the free Tonlé Sap Exhibition, which includes a ‘Seeing in the Dark’ interactive exhibition exploring what it is like to be blind, guided by a vision-impaired student.
Peace Cafe YogaYOGA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-965210; www.peacecafeangkor.org; Siem Reap River Rd East; per session US$6)
This popular community centre and cafe has daily morning and evening yoga sessions, including ashtanga and hatha sessions.
Seeing Hands Massage 4MASSAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 836487; 324 Sivatha St; per fan/air-con US$5/7) S
Seeing Hands trains blind people in the art of massage. Watch out for copycats, as some of these are just exploiting the blind for profit.
Happy RanchHORSE RIDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 920002; www.thehappyranch.com; 1hr/half-day US$28/59)
Forget the Wild West – try your hand at horse riding in the Wild East. Happy Ranch offers the chance to explore Siem Reap on horseback, taking in surrounding villages and secluded temples. This is a calm way to experience the countryside, far from the traffic and crowds.
Popular rides take in Wat Athvea, a modern pagoda with an ancient temple on its grounds, and Wat Chedi, a temple set on a flood plain near the Tonlé Sap lake. Riding lessons are available for children and beginners. Book directly for the best prices.
C Courses
Le Tigre de PapierCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 265811; www.angkor-cooking-class-cambodia.com; Pub St; per person US$15)
Classes include a visit to the market and the chance to prepare an amok degustation, a variation on the national dish. Daily classes are held at 10am, 1pm and 5pm.
Vegetarian Cooking ClassCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %092 177127; http://peacecafeangkor.org; Siem Reap River Rd East; per person US$20)
A vegetarian cooking class with tofu amok, papaya salad and vegie spring rolls on the menu.
Khmer Ceramics Fine Arts CentreART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; សេរ៉ាម៉ិច; %017 843014; www.khmerceramics.com; Charles de Gaulle Blvd; pottery course US$20; h8am-8pm) S
Located on the road to the temples, this ceramics centre is dedicated to reviving the Khmer tradition of pottery, which was an intricate art during the time of Angkor. It’s possible to visit and try your hand at the potter’s wheel, and courses in traditional techniques, including pottery and ceramic painting, are available.
TTours
oKKO Bike ToursCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Khmer for Khmer Organisation; %093 903024; www.kko-cambodia.org; Taphul Rd; tours US$35-60) S
Cycling and moto tours around the paths of Angkor or into the countryside beyond the Western Baray. Proceeds go towards the Khmer for Khmer Organisation, which supports education and vocational training.
Quad Adventure CambodiaADVENTURE SPORTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %092 787216; www.quad-adventure-cambodia.com; Country Rd Laurent; sunset ride US$30, full day US$170)
The original quad-bike operator in town. Rides around Siem Reap involve rice fields at sunset, pretty temples and back roads through traditional villages.
oSiem Reap Food ToursFOOD & DRINK
(%012 505542; www.siemreapfoodtours.com; per person US$75)
Operated by an American food writer and an experienced Scottish chef with a penchant for stand-up comedy, these tours are a recipe for engaging food encounters. Choose from a morning tour that takes in local markets and the naom banchok noodle stalls of Preah Dak or an evening tour that takes in street stalls and local barbecue restaurants.
SUPPORTING RESPONSIBLE TOURISM IN SIEM REAP
ConCERT (www.concertcambodia.org) works to build bridges between tourists and worthy projects in the Siem Reap/Angkor area and offers information on anything from ecotourism initiatives to volunteering opportunities.
4Sleeping
While accommodation is spread throughout town, three areas hold the bulk of budget choices: the Psar Chaa area; the area to the west of Sivatha St; and north of Wat Bo on the east bank of the river. Psar Chaa is the liveliest part of town, brimming with restaurants, bars and boutiques. Staying here can be a lot of fun, but it’s not the quietest part of town. The area to the west of Sivatha St includes a good selection of budget guesthouses and midrange boutique hotels. There is a great guesthouse ghetto in a backstreet running parallel to the north end of Wat Bo Rd, which is good for on-the-spot browsing.
oOnederz HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-963525; https://onederz.com; Angkor Night Market St; dm US$8.50-9.50, r US$26; 
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Winner of several ‘Hoscars’ (Hostelworld’s Oscars), this is one of the smartest hostels in Siem Reap. Facilities include a huge cafe-bar downstairs, which acts as a giant waiting room for all those coming and going from Siem Reap. Dorms are a little pricey but don’t forget this is because they include access to the rooftop swimming pool.
oGreen Home IHOMESTAY$
(MAP; %095 334460; www.thegreenhome.org; Chreav Commune; r with fan/air-con US$8/10; aW)
Setting the standard for the homestay experience around Siem Reap, the Green Home is set up like a family guesthouse and offers beautiful garden views over the surrounding rice fields. Bathrooms are shared but meticulously clean and the downstairs rooms include air-con. Cooking classes are available, as well as village walks, farm visits and birding trips.
Seven Candles GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-963380; www.sevencandlesguesthouse.com; 307 Wat Bo Rd; r US$20-38; aiW) S
Siem Reap HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-964660; www.thesiemreaphostel.com; 10 Makara St; dm US$8-10, r incl breakfast US$30-45; aiWs)
Angkor’s original backpacker hostel is pretty slick. The dorms are well tended, while the rooms are definitely flashpacker and include breakfast. There is a lively bar-restaurant and a covered pool, plus a well-organised travel desk.
Mad MonkeyHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.madmonkeyhostels.com; Sivatha St; dm US$7-9, r US$16-26; aiW)
The Siem Reap outpost of an expanding Monkey business, this classic backpacker has deluxe dorms with air-con and extra-wide bunk beds, good-value rooms for those wanting privacy and the obligatory rooftop bar, only this one’s a beach bar!
Ivy Guesthouse 2GUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 800860; www.ivy-guesthouse.com; Psar Kandal St; r with fan US$6-8, with air-con US$15; aiW)
An inviting guesthouse with a chill-out area and bar, the Ivy is a lively place to stay. The restaurant is as good as it gets among the guesthouses in town, with a huge vegetarian selection and US$1.25 ‘Tapas Fridays’.
Funky FlashpackerHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %070 221524; www.funkyflashpacker.com; Funky Lane; dm US$5-8, r US$10-40; aiWs)
Siem Reap’s number-one party address among backpackers. The entire downstairs courtyard is taken up with a swimming pool where regular bouts of water polo take place, while the rooftop bar sizzles with inebriated youth hopped up on cheap shooters. Great hostel, but it’s no place for quiet time.
HI Siem Reap DeluxeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-765569; www.hisiemreap.com; 319 Siem Reap River Rd East; dm US$4-6, r US$15-30; aWs)
The official Hostelling International property in Siem Reap, the ‘Deluxe’ offers great services and facilities at rock-bottom prices. Dorm beds include two pillows and a reading light, while private rooms are definitely flashpacker. Throw in a rooftop pool and it’s a steal.
Rosy GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-965059; www.rosyguesthouse.com; Siem Reap River Rd East; d US$9, with bathroom & air-con US$16-35; aW) S
A Brit-run establishment whose 13 value-for-money rooms come with TV and DVD, plus tasteful touches like silk furnishings. The lively pub downstairs has great grub and hosts regular events to support community causes, including a popular quiz night.
SPLURGE
A hotel with a heart, promoting local causes to help the community, thieboutique Soria Moria Hotel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-964768; http://thesoriamoria.com; Wat Bo Rd; s US$45-65, d US$60-80; aiWs) has attractive rooms with smart bathroom fittings. There’s a fusion restaurant downstairs, sky hot tub upstairs and a swimming pool. Half the hotel was transferred to staff ownership in 2011, a visionary move.
5Eating
Worthy restaurants are sprinkled all around town but Siem Reap’s culinary heart is the Psar Chaa area, whose focal point, the Alley, is literally lined with mellow eateries offering great atmosphere. It is wall-to-wall good Cambodian restaurants, many family owned.
For self-caterers, markets sell fruit and veg. Angkor Market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sivatha St; h8am-9pm), a supermarket, can supply international treats.
oMarumINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %017 363284; www.marum-restaurant.org; Wat Polanka area; mains US$3.25-6.75; h11am-10.30pm; W
v
c) S
Set in a delightful wooden house with a spacious garden, Marum serves up lots of vegetarian and seafood dishes, plus some mouth-watering desserts. Menu highlights include beef with red ants and chilli stir-fry, and mini crocodile burgers. Marum is part of the Tree Alliance group of training restaurants; the experience is a must.
oPot & Pan RestaurantCAMBODIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %017 970780; www.thepotandpanrestaurant.com; Stung Thmei Rd; meals US$2-5; h10am-10pm; W)
One of the best-value Khmer restaurants in the downtown area, Pot & Pan specialises in well-presented, authentic dishes at affordable prices. The menu includes spicy soups and subtle salads, and rice is beautifully served in a lotus leaf. Some of the cheapest pizzas in town are, somewhat surprisingly, also available here.
oBloom CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.bloomcakes.org; St 6; cupcakes US$1.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat; W) S
Cupcakes are elevated to an art form at this elegant cafe, with beautifully presented creations available in a rotating array of 48 flavours. Creative coffees, teas and juices are also on offer. Profits assist Cambodian women in vocational training.
oGelato LabICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/gelatolabsiemreap; 109 Alley West; 1/2 scoops US$1.50/2.50; h9am-11pm; W)
The great ice cream scooped up here is thanks to the state-of-the-art equipment, all-natural ingredients and – most importantly – plenty of passion courtesy of the Italian owner. Also pours some of the best hand-roasted coffee in town.
Little Red FoxCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.thelittleredfoxespresso.com; Hup Guan St; dishes US$2-8; h7am-5pm Thu-Tue)
This foxy little cafe is incredibly popular with long-term residents in Siem Reap, who swear that the regionally sourced Feel Good coffee is the best in town. Add to that designer breakfasts, bagels, salads, creative juices and air-con and it’s easy to while away some time here. The slick upstairs wing is popular with the laptop crowd.
Psar ChaaCAMBODIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; mains US$1.50-4; h7am-9pm)
When it comes to cheap Khmer eats, Psar Chaa market has plenty of food stalls on the northwestern side, all with signs and menus in English. These are atmospheric places for a local meal at local-ish prices. Some dishes are on display, others are freshly wok-fried to order, but most are wholesome and filling.
Road 60 Night MarketMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rd 60; snacks US$1-4; h4-11pm)
For a slice of local life, head to the Road 60 Night Market located on the side of the road near the main Angkor ticket checkpoint. Stallholders set up each night, and it’s a great place to sample local Cambodian snacks, including the full range of deep-fried insects, barbecue dishes such as quail, and plenty of cheap beer.
Bugs CafeCAMBODIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %017 764560; www.bugs-cafe.com; Angkor Night Market St; dishes US$2-8; h5-11pm; W)
Cambodians were onto insects long before the food scientists started bugging us about their merits. Choose from a veritable feast of crickets, water bugs, silkworms and spiders. Tarantula doughnuts, pan-fried scorpions, snakes – you won’t forget this menu in a hurry.
Banllé Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.banlle-vegetarian.com; St 26; dishes US$2-4; h11am-9.30pm Wed-Mon; Wv)
Set in a traditional wooden house with its own organic vegetable garden, this is a great place for a healthy bite. The menu offers a blend of international and Cambodian dishes, including a vegetable amok and zesty fruit and vegetable shakes.
oHavenFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %078-342404; www.haven-cambodia.com; Chocolate Rd, Wat Dam Nak area; mains US$6-8; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; W) S
A culinary haven indeed. Dine here for the best of East meets West; the fish fillet with green mango is particularly zesty. Proceeds go towards helping young adult orphans make the step from institution to employment.
oSpoons CafeCAMBODIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %076 277 6667; www.spoonscambodia.org; Bamboo Rd; mains US$5.50-8; h11.30am-10pm Tue-Sun; W) S
This excellent contemporary-Cambodian restaurant supports local community EGBOK (Everything’s Gonna Be OK), which offers education, training and employment opportunities in the hospitality sector. The menu includes some original flavours such as trey saba (whole mackerel) with coconut-turmeric rice, tiger-prawn curry and tuk kroeung, a pungent local fish-based broth. Original cocktails are shaken, not stirred.
oMamma ShopITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/mammashop.italian.restaurant; Hup Guan St; mains US$5-9; h11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W)
A compact menu of terrific homemade pasta is the signature of this bright, friendly Italian corner bistro in the up-and-coming Kandal Village district. Add a selection of piadina romagnola (stuffed flatbread) pizza, a nice wine list and delicious desserts, and this place is highly recommended.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Siem Reap is now firmly on the nightlife map of Southeast Asia. The Psar Chaa area is a good hunting ground, and one street is now known as ‘Pub St’: dive in, crawl out.
oAsana Wooden HouseBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.asana-cambodia.com; The Lane; h11am-late; W)
This is a traditional Cambodian countryside home dropped into the backstreets of Siem Reap, which makes for an atmospheric place to drink. Lounge on kapok-filled rice sacks while sipping a classic cocktail made with infused rice wine. Khmer cocktail classes (US$15 per person) with Sombai spirits are available.
oLaundry BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/laundry.bar.3; St 9; h4pm-late; W)
One of the most chilled, chic bars in town thanks to low lighting and discerning decor. This is the place to come for electronica and ambient sounds; it heaves on weekends or when guest DJs crank up the volume. Happy hour until 9pm.
Soul Train Reggae BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/soultrainreggaebar; 35 New St; h5pm-late)
One of the most lively late-night spots in town, this bar is tucked away down the side street that passes Wat Preah Prohm Roth, so hopefully the reggae beats are subtle enough not to disturb the monks. Great tunes, cheap drinks and a party atmosphere that is more chilled than Pub St.
Angkor What?BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/theangkorwhatbar; Pub St; h5pm-late; W)
Siem Reap’s original bar claims to have been promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998. The happy hour (to 9pm) lightens the mood for later when everyone’s bouncing along to dance anthems, sometimes on the tables, sometimes under them.
X BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/Xbar.Asia; Sivatha St; h4pm-sunrise; W)
One of the late-night spots in town, X Bar draws revellers for the witching hour when other places are closing up. Early-evening movies on the big screen, pool tables and even a skateboard pipe – take a breath test first!
3Entertainment
Classical dance shows take place all over the town, but only a few are worth considering.
oPhare the Cambodian CircusCIRCUS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %015 499480; www.pharecircus.org; west end of Sok San Rd; adult/child US$18/10, premium seats US$38/18; h8pm daily)
Cambodia’s answer to Cirque du Soleil, Phare the Cambodian Circus is so much more than a conventional circus, with an emphasis on performance art and a subtle yet striking social message behind each production. Cambodia’s leading circus, theatre and performing arts organisation, Phare Ponleu Selpak opened its big top for nightly shows in 2013 and the results are a unique form of entertainment that should be considered unmissable when staying in Siem Reap.
BeatocelloCLASSICAL MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.beatocello.com; Charles de Gaulle Blvd; h7.15pm Sat) S
Better known as Dr Beat Richner, Beatocello performs cello compositions at Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital. Entry is free, but donations are welcome as they assist the hospital in offering free medical treatment to the children of Cambodia.
7Shopping
Siem Reap has an excellent selection of Cambodian-made handicrafts. Psar Chaa is well stocked and there are bargains to be had if you haggle patiently and humorously. Angkor Night Market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; https://angkornightmarket.com; h4pm-midnight) is packed with silks, handicrafts and assorted souvenirs. Up-and-coming Alley West is also a great strip to browse socially responsible fashion boutiques. Several shops, such as the exquisite Artisans Angkor, support Cambodia’s disabled and disenfranchised.
oAHA Fair Trade VillageARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %078 341454; www.aha-kh.com; Rd 60, Trang Village; h10am-7pm) S
For locally produced souvenirs (unlike much of the imported stuff that turns up in Psar Chaa) drop in on this handicraft market. It’s a little out of the way, but there are more than 20 stalls selling a wide range of traditional items. There’s a Khmer cultural show every second and fourth Saturday of the month, with extra stalls, traditional music and dancing.
otrunkh.GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.trunkh.com; Hup Guan St; h10am-6pm)
The owner here has a great eye for the quirky, stylish and original, including beautiful shirts, throw pillows, jewellery, poster art, and T’s, plus some offbeat items such as genuine Cambodian water-buffalo bells.
Sra MayFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 640 Hup Guan St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Sra May is a social enterprise that uses traditional local materials such as palm leaves to create boxes and artworks. They also specialise in handwoven krama. This is also the drop-in office to book the PURE! Countryside Bicycle Tour (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %097 2356862; Hup Guan St; per person US$25-35) S.
SmateriaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.smateria.com; Alley West; h10am-10pm) S
Recycling rocks here with funky bags made from construction nets, plastic bags, motorbike seat covers and more. It’s a fair-trade enterprise employing some disabled Cambodians.
Made in CambodiaMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/madeincambodiamarket; Siem Reap River Rd East; hnoon-10pm)
King’s Rd hosts the daily Made in Cambodia community market, bringing together many of the best local craftsfolk and creators in Siem Reap, many promoting good causes.
8Information
The free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide (www.canbypublications.com) and Siem Reap Pocket Guide (www.cambodiapocketguide.com) are both widely available in Siem Reap.
There are ATMs at the airport and in banks and minimarts all over central Siem Reap, especially along Sivatha St. The greatest concentration of internet shops is along Sivatha St and around Psar Chaa. Free wi-fi is available at many of the leading cafes, restaurants and bars, not forgetting most guesthouses and hotels.
Angkor Hospital for Children (AHC; MAP; %063-963409; www.angkorhospital.org; cnr Oum Chhay & Tep Vong Sts; h24hr) This international-standard paediatric hospital is the place to take your children if they fall sick. They will also assist adults in an emergency for up to 24 hours. Donations accepted.
ANZ Royal Bank (MAP; Achar Mean St; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat) Offers credit-card cash advances. Several branches and many ATMs (US$5 per withdrawal) are spotted around town.
Canadia Bank (MAP; Sivatha St; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat) Offers credit-card cash advances (US$4) and changes travellers cheques in most major currencies at a 2% commission.
Main Post Office (MAP; Pokambor Ave; h7am-5.30pm) Services are more reliable these days, but it doesn’t hurt to see your stamps franked. Includes a branch of EMS express mail.
Royal Angkor International Hospital (MAP; %063-761888; www.royalangkorhospital.com; Airport Rd) This international facility affiliated with the Bangkok Hospital is on the expensive side as it’s used to dealing with insurance companies.
Tourist Police (MAP; %012 402424; Rd 60) Located at the main ticket checkpoint (MAP; Rd 60; h5am-6pm) for the Angkor area, this is the place to lodge a complaint if you encounter any serious problems while in Siem Reap.
U-Care Pharmacy (MAP; %063-965396; Pithnou St; h8am-10pm) Smart pharmacy and shop similar to Boots in Thailand (and the UK). English spoken.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Siem Reap International Airport (MAP; %063-962400; www.cambodia-airports.com) is a work of art set 7km west of the centre and offers regular connections to most neighbouring Asian cities, plus domestic flights to Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville.
BOAT
Boats for the incredibly scenic trip to Battambang (US$20, five to nine hours depending on water levels) and the faster ride to Phnom Penh (US$35, six hours, August to March only) depart at 7am from the tourist-boat dock at Chong Kneas, 11km south of town.
Tickets are sold at guesthouses, hotels and travel agencies, including pickup from your hotel or guesthouse around 6am.
BUS
All buses depart from the bus station (MAP), which is 3km east of town and nearly 1km south of NH6. Tickets are available at guesthouses, hotels, bus offices, travel agencies and ticket kiosks. Some bus companies send a minibus around to pick up passengers at their place of lodging. Upon arrival in Siem Reap, be prepared for a rugby scrum of eager moto drivers when getting off the bus.
Tickets to Phnom Penh via NH6 cost anywhere from US$5 for basic air-con buses to US$15 for the business-class buses run by Giant Ibis.
Several companies offer direct services to Kompong Cham (US$5, five or six hours), Battambang (US$5 to US$8, three hours) and Poipet (US$5 to US$8, three hours). There are no through buses to Ho Chi Minh City, but it is possible to change in Phnom Penh.
Bus companies in Siem Reap:
Asia Van Transfer (AVT; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %063-963853; www.asiavantransfer.com; Hup Guan St) A daily express minivan departs at 8am to Stung Treng (US$20, five hours) via Preah Vihear City, with onward services from Stung Treng to Don Det (Laos), Ban Lung and Kratie.
Giant Ibis (MAP; %095 777809; www.giantibis.com) The smartest bus operator serving Phnom Penh (US$15, daily) has free wi-fi on board.
Mekong Express (MAP; %063-963662; https://catmekongexpress.com; 14 Sivatha St) Upmarket bus company with hostesses and drinks.
Phnom Penh Sorya (MAP; %096 766 6577; https://ppsoryatransport.com.kh; Sivatha St) Most extensive bus network in Cambodia.
Virak Buntham (MAP; %017 790440; www.virakbuntham.com) The night-bus specialist to Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville.
SHARE TAXI
Share taxis stop along NH6 just north of the bus station. Destinations include Phnom Penh (US$10, five hours), Kompong Thom (US$5, two hours), Sisophon (US$5, two hours) and Poipet (US$7, two hours).
TRANSPORT FROM SIEM REAP
| DESTINATION | CAR & MOTORCYCLE | BUS | BOAT | AIR |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok, Thailand | 8hr | US$15-28, 10hr, frequent | N/A | US$50-150, 1hr, 8 daily |
| Battambang | 3hr | US$5-8, 4hr, frequent | US$20, 6-8hr, 7am | N/A |
| Kompong Thom | 2hr | US$5, 2hr, frequent | N/A | N/A |
| Phnom Penh | 4-5hr | US$6-15, 5-6hr, frequent | US$35, 5hr, 7am | US$20-100, 30min, frequent |
| Poipet | 3hr | US$5-8, 3hr, frequent | N/A | N/A |
8Getting Around
From the airport, an official taxi costs US$9, while remork-motos (US$7) are also available.
From the bus station a moto/remork to the city centre should cost about US$1/2. If you’re arriving on a bus service sold by a guesthouse, the bus will head straight to a partner guesthouse.
If arriving by boat, a moto into town should cost about US$3 from the dock in Chong Kneas. Short moto trips around the centre of town cost 2000r or 4000r, more at night. A remork starts from US$2 and up.
Most guesthouses and small hotels can usually help with bicycle rental for about US$2 per day. Look out for guesthouses and hotels supporting the White Bicycles (www.thewhitebicycles.org; per day US$2) project, whose proceeds go to local development projects. otorbike hire is currently prohibited in Siem Reap.
GETTING TO THAILAND: SIEM REAP TO BANGKOK
The original land border crossing (open from 7am to 8pm) between Cambodia and Thailand is by far the busiest and the one most people take when travelling between Bangkok and Siem Reap. It has earned itself a bad reputation over the years, with scams galore to help tourists part with their money, especially coming in from Thailand.
Getting to the border Frequent buses and share taxis run from Siem Reap and Battambang to Poipet. Buying a ticket all the way to Bangkok (usually involving a change of buses at the border) can expedite things and save you the hassle of finding onward transport on the Thai side. The 8am through-bus to Mo Chit bus station in Bangkok run by Nattakan (MAP; %078 795333; www.nattakan-transport.com; Concrete Drain Rd) in Siem Reap costs an inflated US$28, but is the only bus service that allows you to continue to Bangkok without a change of bus.
At the border Waits of two or more hours are not uncommon, especially in the high season. Show up early to avoid the crowds. You can pay a special ‘VIP fee’ (aka a bribe) of 200B on either side to skip the lines. There is no departure tax to leave Cambodia despite what Cambodian border officials might tell you. Entering Thailand, most nationalities are issued 30-day entry free of charge.
Moving on Minibuses wait just over the border on the Thai side to whisk you to Bangkok (300B, four hours, every 30 minutes). Or make your way 7km to Aranya Prathet by túktúk (80B) or sŏrng·tăa·ou (pickup truck; 15B), from where there are regular buses to Bangkok’s Mo Chit station (223B, five to six hours) between 4am and 6pm. The 1.55pm train is another option to Bangkok.
For making this crossing in reverse see here.
Temples of Angkor ប្រាសាទអង្គរ
Where to begin with Angkor? There is no greater concentration of architectural riches anywhere on Earth. Choose from the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat, one of the world’s weirdest, Bayon, or the riotous jungle of Ta Prohm. All are global icons and have helped put Cambodia on the map as the temple capital of Asia.
Beyond the big three are dozens more temples, each of which would be the star were it located anywhere else in the region: Banteay Srei, the art gallery of Angkor; Preah Khan, the ultimate fusion temple uniting Buddhism and Hinduism; or Beng Mealea, the Titanic of temples suffocating under the jungle. The most vexing part of a visit to Angkor is working out what to see, as there are simply so many spectacular sites. One day at Angkor? Sacrilege! Don’t even consider it.
The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social centre of the ancient Khmer empire. Angkor was a city that, at its zenith, boasted a population of one million when London was a small town of 50,000. The houses, public buildings and palaces of Angkor were constructed of wood – now long decayed – because the right to dwell in structures of brick or stone was reserved for the gods.
Angkor Wat អង្គរវត្ត
The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat (MAP; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h5am-5.30pm), the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only a few select spots on Earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.
Angkor is heaven on earth, namely the symbolic representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and abode of ancient gods. It is the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. The Cambodian ‘god-kings’ of old each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat.
Angkor Wat is the Khmers’ national symbol, the epicentre of their civilisation and a source of fierce national pride. Unlike the other Angkor monuments, it was never abandoned to the elements and has been in virtually continuous use since it was built.
The temple is surrounded by a moat, 190m wide, which forms a giant rectangle measuring 1.5km by 1.3km. Stretching around the outside of the central temple complex is an 800m-long series of bas reliefs, designed to be viewed in an anticlockwise direction. Rising 31m above the third level is the central tower, which gives the whole ensemble its sublime unity.
Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II (r 1113–52), who unified Cambodia and extended Khmer influence across much of mainland Southeast Asia. He also set himself apart religiously from earlier kings by his devotion to the Hindu deity Vishnu, to whom he consecrated the temple, built around the same time as European Gothic heavyweights such as Westminster Abbey and Chartres.
The upper level of Angkor Wat is once again open to modern pilgrims, but visits are strictly timed to 20 minutes.
EXPLORING THE TEMPLES
One Day
If you’ve got only one day to spend at Angkor, that’s unfortunate, but a good itinerary would be Angkor Wat for sunrise, after which you can explore the mighty temple before the crowds arrive. From there, drop by Ta Prohm before breaking for lunch. In the afternoon, explore the temples within the walled city of Angkor Thom and the enigmatic faces of the Bayon in the late-afternoon light. Biggest mistake: trying to pack in too much.
Three Days
With three days to explore the area, start with some of the smaller temples and build up to the big hitters. Visit the early Roluos group on the first day for some chronological consistency and try the stars of the Grand Circuit, including Preah Khan and Preah Neak Poan. Day two might include Ta Prohm and the temples on the Small Circuit, plus the distant but stunning Banteay Srei. Then the climax: Angkor Wat at dawn and the immense city of Angkor Thom in the afternoon.
One Week
Angkor is your oyster, so relax, enjoy and explore at will. Make sure you visit Beng Mealea and Kbal Spean. Do at least one overnight trip further afield, to Koh Ker, Banteay Chhmar or Prasat Preah Vihear. For a change of pace, take a boat to the stilted village of Kompong Pluk.
Tickets
The Angkor ticket checkpoint is on the new road from Siem Reap to Angkor. Three day passes can be used on any three days over a one-week period, and one-week passes are valid over the course of a month. Tickets issued after 5pm (for sunset viewing) are valid the next day. Tickets are not valid for Phnom Kulen, Beng Mealea or Koh Ker. Get caught ticketless in a temple and you’ll be fined US$100.
Eating
There are dozens of local noodle stalls just near the Terrace of the Leper King, and a village with a cluster of restaurants opposite Sra Srang (Pool of Ablutions; MAP; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h5am-5.30pm), the former royal bathing pond. Angkor Wat has full-blown cafes and restaurants. Try to be patient with the hordes of children selling food, drinks and souvenirs, as they’re only doing what their families have asked them to do to survive. You’ll find that their ice-cold bottled water and fresh pineapples are heavenly in the heat.
Angkor Thom អង្គរធំ
It is hard to imagine any building bigger or more beautiful than Angkor Wat, but in Angkor Thom (Great Angkor, or Great City) the sum of the parts add up to a greater whole. It is the gates that grab you first, flanked by a monumental representation of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, 54 demons and 54 gods engaged in an epic tug of war on the causeway. Each gate towers above the visitor, the magnanimous faces of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara staring out over the kingdom. Imagine being a peasant in the 13th century approaching the forbidding capital for the first time: it would have been an awe-inspiring yet unsettling experience to enter such a gateway and come face to face with the divine power of the god-kings.
The last great capital of the Khmer empire, Angkor Thom took monumental to a whole new level, set over 10 sq km. It was built in part as a reaction to the surprise sacking of Angkor by the Chams. Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219) decided that his empire would never again be vulnerable at home. Beyond the formidable walls is a massive moat that would have stopped all but the hardiest invaders in their tracks.
1Sights
At the heart of Angkor Thom is the 12th-century Bayon (MAP; បាយ័ន; h7.30am-5.30pm). The mesmerising if slightly mind-bending state temple of Jayavarman VII epitomises the creative genius and inflated ego of Cambodia’s most celebrated king. Its 54 gothic towers are famously decorated with 216 gargantuan smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara that bear more than a passing resemblance to the great king himself.
It’s known as the ‘face temple’ thanks to its iconic visages. These huge heads glare down from every angle, exuding power and control with a hint of humanity – precisely the blend required to hold sway over such a vast empire, ensuring the disparate and far-flung population yielded to the king’s magnanimous will.
The Bayon is decorated with 1.2km of extraordinary bas-reliefs incorporating more than 11,000 figures, depicting everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia. You may notice something that looks much like the ‘Thai’ kickboxing of today depicted in these bas-reliefs; much of Thailand’s culture is linked to the Cambodian artisans, dancers, scholars and fighters with whom the Thais made off after they sacked Angkor in 1432. The history of Angkor remains a seriously sensitive topic between the two cultures, fuelling a bitter rivalry that’s lasted centuries.
BaphuonHINDU TEMPLE
(MAP; បាពួន; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Some have called Baphuon the ‘world’s largest jigsaw puzzle’. Before the civil war the Baphuon was painstakingly taken apart piece-by-piece by a team of archaeologists, but their meticulous records were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge regime, leaving experts with 300,000 stones to put back into place. After years of excruciating research, this temple has been partially restored. In the 16th century, the retaining wall on the western side of the second level was fashioned into a 60m reclining Buddha.
Terrace of ElephantsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(MAP; ទីលានជល់ដំរី; h7.30am-5pm)
The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants was used as a giant viewing stand for public ceremonies and served as a base for the king’s grand audience hall. Try to imagine the pomp and grandeur of the Khmer empire at its height, with infantry, cavalry, horse-drawn chariots and elephants parading across Central Square in a colourful procession, pennants and standards aloft. Looking on is the god-king, shaded by multi-tiered parasols and attended by mandarins and handmaidens bearing gold and silver utensils.
Terrace of the Leper KingARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(MAP; ព្រះលានស្តេចគម្លង់; h7.30am-5.30pm)
The Terrace of the Leper King is just north of the Terrace of Elephants. Dating from the late 12th century, it is a 7m-high platform, on top of which stands a nude, though sexless, statue. The front retaining walls of the terrace are decorated with at least five tiers of meticulously executed carvings. On the southern side of the Terrace of the Leper King, there is access to a hidden terrace with exquisitely preserved carvings.
TOP ANGKOR EXPERIENCES
Angkor Wat Watching the sun rise over the holiest of holies, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building.
Bayon Contemplating the serenity and splendour of Bayon, its 216 enigmatic faces staring out into the jungle.
Ta Prohm (MAP) Witnessing nature reclaiming the stones at this mysterious ruin, the Tomb Raider temple.
Banteay Srei Staring in wonder at the delicate carvings adorning Banteay Srei, the finest seen at Angkor.
Kbal Spean Trekking deep into the jungle to discover the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’.
Beng Mealea Exploring the tangled vines, crumbling corridors and jumbled sandstone blocks.
Around Angkor Thom
1Sights
Phnom BakhengHINDU TEMPLE
(MAP; ភ្នំបាខែង; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h5am-7pm)
Located around 400m south of Angkor Thom, the main attraction at Phnom Bakheng is the sunset view over Angkor Wat. For many years, the whole affair turned into a circus, with crowds of tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and jockeying for space. Numbers are now restricted to just 300 visitors at any one time, so get here early (4pm) to guarantee a sunset spot. The temple, built by Yasovarman I (r 889–910), has five tiers, with seven levels.
Preah KhanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP; ព្រះខ័ន; Sacred Sword; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h7.30am-5.30pm)
The temple of Preah Khan is one of the largest complexes at Angkor, a maze of vaulted corridors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. It is a good counterpoint to Ta Prohm and generally sees slightly fewer visitors. Like Ta Prohm it is a place of towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging corridors. Unlike Ta Prohm, however, the temple of Preah Khan is in a reasonable state of preservation thanks to the ongoing restoration efforts of the World Monuments Fund (WMF).
Preah Neak PoanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP; នាគព័ន្ធ, Temple of the Intertwined Nagas; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h7.30am-5.30pm)
The Buddhist temple of Preah Neak Poan is a petite yet perfect temple constructed by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It has a large square pool surrounded by four smaller square pools. In the middle of the central pool is a circular ‘island’ encircled by the two nagas whose intertwined tails give the temple its name.
BakongHINDU TEMPLE
(MAP; បាគង; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Bakong is the largest and most interesting of the Roluos group of temples. Built and dedicated to Shiva by Indravarman I, it’s a representation of Mt Meru, and it served as the city’s central temple. The east-facing complex consists of a five-tier central pyramid of sandstone, 60m square at the base, flanked by eight towers of brick and sandstone, and by other minor sanctuaries. A number of the lower towers are still partly covered by their original plasterwork.
DON’T MISS
Ta Prohm តាព្រហ្ម
The ultimate Indiana Jones fantasy, Ta Prohm (MAP; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h7.30am-5.30pm) is cloaked in dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. If Angkor Wat is testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome fecundity and power of the jungle. There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humanity to slowly destroy.
Built from 1186 and originally known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, closed courtyards and narrow corridors. Ancient trees tower overhead, their leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a greenish pall over the whole scene. It is the closest most of us will get to the discoveries of the explorers of old.
Further Afield
1Sights
oBanteay SreiHINDU TEMPLE
(បន្ទាយស្រី; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving anywhere on Earth. Begun in AD 967, it is one of the smallest sites at Angkor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature. The art gallery of Angkor, Banteay Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, is wonderfully well preserved and many of its carvings are three-dimensional.
oBeng MealeaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(បេងមាលា; US$5; h7.30am-5.30pm)
A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea, located about 68km northeast of Siem Reap, is one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well and truly run riot. Exploring this titanic of temples, built to the same floor plan as Angkor Wat, is the ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m.
Kbal SpeanHINDU SHRINE
(ក្បាលស្ពាន, River of a Thousand Lingas; incl in Angkor admission 1/3/7 days US$37/62/72; h7.30am-5.30pm)
A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in the jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, the name actually means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the natural rock bridge here. Lingas (phallic symbols) have been elaborately carved into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. It was ‘discovered’ in 1969, when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a hermit.
Phnom KulenMOUNTAIN
(ភ្នំគូលែន; www.adfkulen.org; US$20; h6-11am to ascend, noon-5pm to descend)
Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Kulen is a popular place of pilgrimage on weekends and during festivals. It played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here in AD 802 that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving birth to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a giant reclining Buddha, hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive waterfall and some remote temples.
Koh KerHINDU TEMPLE
(កោះកេរ; US$10; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh Ker, capital of the Angkorian empire from AD 928 to AD 944, is within day-trip distance of Siem Reap. Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom where impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns. The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid whose seven tiers offer spectacular views across the forest. Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap.
Northwestern Cambodia
Offering highway accessibility and outback adventure in equal measure, northwestern Cambodia stretches from the Cardamom Mountains to the Dangkrek Mountains, with Tonlé Sap lake at its heart. Battambang attracts the most visitors thanks to an alluring blend of mellowness, colonial-era architecture and excellent day-tripping. Northwestern Cambodia’s remote plains and jungles conceal some of the country’s most inspired temples, including spectacular Prasat Preah Vihear, declared a World Heritage site in 2008, and the pre-Angkorian temples of Sambor Prei Kuk near Kompong Thom, added to the World Heritage list in 2017.
WORTH A TRIP
FLOATING VILLAGES
The famous floating village of Chong Kneas is an easy excursion to arrange yourself. The village moves depending on the season and you will need to rent a boat to get around it properly. Unfortunately, large tour groups tend to take over and Sou Ching, the company that runs the tours, has fixed boat prices at an absurd US$20 per person, plus US$3 entry. Contact Tara Boat (%092 957765; www.taraboat.com; per person incl lunch/dinner US$29/36) for an all-inclusive trip. The small, floating Gecko Centre (www.greengeckoproject.org; h8.30am-5.30pm) has displays on the Tonlé Sap’s remarkable annual cycle.
To get to Chong Kneas from Siem Reap costs US$3 by moto each way (more if the driver waits), or US$15 by taxi. The trip takes 20 minutes. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle in town, as it’s a leisurely 11km ride through pretty villages and rice fields.
More memorable than Chong Kneas, but also harder to reach, is the friendly village of Kompong Pluk, an other-worldly place built on soaring stilts. In the wet season you can explore the nearby flooded forest by canoe. Similar to Chong Kneas, prices have been set at between US$20 and US$30 per person for a boat, but again it may be possible to negotiate this as a per-boat cost split between a group. To get here, travel via the small town of Roluos by a 60- to 90-minute combination of road and boat.
Battambang បាត់ដំបង
%053 / Pop 147,000
The elegant riverside town of Battambang is home to Cambodia’s best-preserved French-period architecture. The stunning boat trip from Siem Reap lures travellers here, but it’s the remarkably chilled atmosphere that makes them linger. Battambang is an excellent base for exploring nearby temples and villages that offer a real slice of rural Cambodia.
1Sights
Much of Battambang’s charm lies in its early 20th-century French architecture. Some of the finest colonial buildings are along the waterfront (St 1), especially just south of Psar Nath, itself an architectural monument, albeit a modernist one. The two-storey Governor’s Residence, with its balconies and wooden shutters, is another handsome legacy of the early 1900s. Designed by an Italian architect for the last Thai governor, who departed in 1907, it has imposing balconies and a grand reception room with 5m ceilings.
Battambang MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; សារមន្ទីរខេត្តបាត់ដំបង; %012 238320; St 1; US$1; h8-11am & 2-5.30pm)
This small and rather dusty museum displays a trove of fine Angkorian lintels and statuary from all over Battambang Province, including pieces from Prasat Banan and Sneng. Signs are in Khmer, English and French.
A museum enlargement and renovation project was under way during our last visit.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BETREED ADVENTURES
Secluded in the Cambodian wilderness, the eco-stay BeTreed Adventures (%078 960420, 012 765136; http://betreed.com; Phnom Tnout, Ta Bos Village; bungalows US$60, treehouse US$40; Wc) is the brainchild of two conservation-minded expats who left jobs with NGOs to save 70 sq km of forestland and all the creatures calling it home. Accommodations include two comfy bungalows on stilts and a treehouse built from reclaimed hardwood around a wild rain tree. Book ahead as early as possible and call for detailed directions.
In addition to sleeping in the canopy, guests go on guided zipline and hiking adventures, and return to camp for delicious, mostly vegetarian meals (US$15 per day). It’s US$10 for a guide, and there’s also a US$15-per-person fee for community development and preservation. Note that access in the wet season can be quite challenging, as the trails out here are easily flooded.
2Activities
SoksabikeCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 542019; www.soksabike.com; St 1½; half-day US$23-27, full day US$34-40; hdeparts 7.30am) S
Soksabike is a social enterprise aiming to connect visitors with the Cambodian countryside and its people. The half- and full-day trips cover 25km and 40km respectively, and include stops at family-run industries such as rice-paper making and the prahoc factory, as well as a visit to a local home. Tour prices depend on group size.
Green Orange KayaksKAYAKING
(%012 207957; www.fedacambodia.org; Ksach Poy; half-day US$12) S
Kayaks can be rented from Green Orange Kayaks, part of the Friends Economic Development Association (FEDA), a local NGO which runs a community centre in Ksach Poy village, 8km south of Battambang. Half-day, self-guided kayaking trips begin at Ksach Poy’s Green Orange Cafe. From there you paddle back to the city along the Sangker River. A FEDA student guide (US$5) is optional. Booking ahead is recommended.
Heritage Walking TrailWALKING
Phnom Penh–based Khmer Architecture Tours (www.ka-tours.org; tours US$10-55) is highly regarded for its specialist tours in and around the capital and has collaborated with Battambang Municipality to create heritage walks in Battambang’s historic centre. The walks concentrate both on the French period and on the modernist architecture of the ‘60s. The company’s website has two downloadable PDFs including a colour map and numbered highlights.
Coconut LylyCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016 399339; St 111; per person US$10)
These classes are run by Chef Lyly, a graduate from Siem Reap’s Paul Dubrule Cooking School. Three-hour classes (start times 9am and 3.30pm) include a visit to Psar Nath market, preparing four typical Khmer dishes (recipe book included) and then eating your handiwork afterwards. The excellent restaurant here is open from 9am to 10pm.
4Sleeping
oHere Be DragonsHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %089 264895; www.herebedragonsbattambang.com; St 159D; fan/air-con dm US$4/6, r from US$12/15; aW)
A funky fun bar, leafy front garden for relaxing and free beer on arrival make Here Be Dragons a top backpacker base. Six- and eight-bed dorms come with lock-boxes, while sunny private rooms are cheerfully decked out with brightly coloured bedding. The quiet location next to the riverside park on the east bank is a bonus.
oAngkor Comfort HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %077 306410; www.angkorcomforthotel.com; St 1; r with air-con US$15-25; aW)
Offering serious bang for your buck, the Angkor’s huge rooms are sparkling clean and come with midrange amenities on a backpacker budget. White linens on the beds, flat-screen TVs, enough powerpoints to charge all your devices at once, and modern bathrooms with walk-in showers all feature.
Ganesha Family GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %092 135570; www.ganeshaguesthouse.com; St 1½; dm US$4.50, r US$11-25; W)
The best of Battambang’s cheapies, Ganesha has a light-filled dorm with double-wide beds, and small private rooms with bamboo furniture and tiled bathrooms (cold water only). Downstairs is a funky cafe with a pool table.
Seng Hout HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012 530327; www.senghouthotel.com; St 2; r with fan US$10-15, with air-con US$15-35; aWs)
Known for its on-the-ball staff who are quick to help with traveller queries, the Seng Hout has a variety of nicely decorated rooms. Some can be a bit poky, so check out a few before deciding. The open-air rooftop space is a key drawcard, and the third-floor pool has great views as well.
Royal HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %016 912034; www.royalhotelbattambang.com; St 115; s/d with fan US$7/10, r with air-con from US$15; aiW)
An old-timer on the Battambang scene, the Royal is deservedly popular. Some rooms may be faded but the air-con rooms are decently sized and come with fridge and TV. Staff here are some of the most clued-up in town, and there’s a new bar and Jacuzzi on the rooftop.
5Eating & Drinking
Cheap dining is available in and around Psar Nath. There’s a riverside night market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; St 1; mains 4000-8000r; h3pm-midnight) opposite the Battambang Museum.
oLonely Tree CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.thelonelytreecafe.com; St 121; mains US$4-5.50; h10am-10pm; W) S
Upstairs from the shop of the same name, this uber-cosy cafe serves Spanish tapas-style dishes and a few Khmer options under a soaring, bamboo-inlaid ceiling. Its mascot is an actual tree on the road to Siem Reap. Proceeds support cultural preservation and people with disabilities, among other causes.
KinyeiCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.kinyei.org; 1 St 1½; coffee US$1.50-2.50, mains US$2.75-5.25; h7am-4pm; W) S
Besides having the best coffee in town (national barista champs have been crowned here), teensy-weensy Kinyei does surprisingly good Mexican food, vegie burgers, energy salads and some of the best breakfasts in town. Aussies will appreciate the long blacks and flat whites among the coffee selection.
Choco l’art CaféCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010 661617; St 117; mains US$1.50-5; h8am-11pm; W)
Run with gusto by local painter Ke and his partner, Soline, this inviting gallery-cafe sees foreigners and locals alike gather to drink and eat Soline’s wonderful bread, pastries and breakfast crêpes. Occasional open-mic nights, live painting sessions and musical performances.
Vegetarian Foods RestaurantVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; St 102; mains 1500-3000r; h6.30am-2pm; v)
This hole-in-the-wall eatery serves some of the most delicious vegetarian dishes in Cambodia, including rice soup, homemade soy milk and dumplings for just 1000r. Tremendous value.
About the WorldINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %086 920476; St 2½; mains US$2.50-4; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat; v)
Travellers love this cosy spot for its relaxed ambience and tasty vegetarian options, including the recommended Spanish omelette and tofu burger. Those who sit indoors, where art and photography festoon the walls, do so barefoot and perched atop floor pillows. The home-brewed jackfruit rice wine (US$1) is deliciously potent.
oJaan BaiFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %078 263144; www.cambodianchildrenstrust.org/projects/social-enterprise/jaan-bai; cnr Sts 1½ & 2; small plates US$3, mains US$4-10; h11am-9pm; Wv) S
Jaan Bai (‘rice bowl’ in Khmer) is Battambang’s foodie treat, with a sleekly minimalist interior offset by beautiful French-Khmer tilework lining the wall. The menu likewise is successfully bold. Order a few of the small plates to experience the range of flavours, or go all out with the tasting menu: seven plates plus wine for US$15 per person (minimum two people).
Cafe EdenCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %053-731525; www.cafeedencambodia.com/main; St 1; mains US$4-7; h7.30am-9pm Wed-Mon; W) S
This American-run social enterprise offers a relaxed space for a hearty breakfast or an afternoon coffee. The compact lunch-and-dinner menu is Asian-fusion style, with burgers, Mexi flaves, the best chips in town and superior jam-jar shakes, all amid blissful air-con.
Libations BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %077 531562; 112 St 2; h5-9pm; W)
Downstairs in the Bric-à-Brac hotel, this classy streetside bar caters to a relatively refined crowd with creative cocktails, craft beer, and wine and champagne by the glass. The chatty owners are a great source of information on the area. Upstairs are three arty, designed rooms.
3Entertaiment
oPhare Ponleu SelpakCIRCUS
(%077 554413; www.phareps.org; adult/child US$14/7)
Battambang’s signature attraction is the internationally acclaimed circus (cirque nouveau) of this multi-arts centre for Cambodian children. Although it also runs shows in Siem Reap, it’s worth timing your visit to Battambang to watch this amazing spectacle where it began. Shows are held two to four nights per week, depending on the season (check the website), and kick off at 7pm.
ALL ABOARD THE BAMBOO TRAIN
One of the world’s unique rail journeys, Battambang’s bamboo train was finally dismantled in late 2017 to make way for plans to upgrade the railway.
The train used to trundle from O Dambong, a few kilometres east of Battambang’s old French bridge (Wat Kor Bridge), to O Sra Lav along warped, misaligned rails and vertiginous bridges left by the French. Each bamboo train – known in Khmer as a norry – consisted of a 3m-long wooden frame, covered lengthwise with slats made of ultralight bamboo, resting on two barbell-like bogies, connected by belts to a 6HP gasoline engine. With a pile of 10 or 15 people, or up to 3 tonnes of rice, it could cruise along at about 15km/h.
The genius of the system is that it offers a solution to the most ineluctable problem faced on any single-track line: what to do when two trains going in opposite directions meet. In the case of bamboo trains, the answer is simple: one car is quickly disassembled and set on the ground beside the tracks so that the other can pass.
With the advent of good roads, the bamboo train would have become defunct sooner if it hadn’t been for its reinvention as a tourist attraction. Due to its past popularity, the government has created a new track about 20km away near Prasat Banan, to reconstruct the bamboo-train experience. It remains to be seen whether the new train will be as popular as the original.
8Information
For information on what’s happening in town, look out for copies of the free, biannual Battambang Buzz magazine, and the handy Battambang Traveller (www.battambangtraveler.com), which comes out four times a year.
Free wi-fi access is the norm at hotels and most cafes and restaurants.
ANZ Royal Bank (St 1; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr)
Canadia Bank (Psar Nath; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
Handa Medical Centre (%095 520654; https://thehandafoundation.org/programs/medical-center; NH5; hemergency 24hr) Has two ambulances and usually an English-speaking doctor or two in residence.
Tourist Information Office (%012 534177; www.battambangtourism.org; St 1; h7.30-11.30am & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Battambang’s tourist office is of little use even when it’s open, but it does sometimes stock a great free map.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
The boat to Siem Reap (US$20, 7am) squeezes through narrow waterways and passes by protected wetlands, taking from five hours in the wet season to nine or more hours at the height of the dry season. Cambodia’s most memorable boat trip, it’s operated on alternate days by Angkor Express (%012 601287) and Chann Na (%012 354344). In the dry season, passengers are driven to a navigable section of the river.
BUS
Most bus companies are clustered in the centre just south of the intersection of NH5 and St 4. For Phnom Penh, Capitol Tour and Phnom Penh Sorya have the most services, but for quicker day travel to the capital, consider express minivans run by Golden Bayon Express (US$10, 4½ hours) or Mekong Express (US$12, 4½ hours). Sleeper buses arrive at an ungodly hour so are not recommended.
Capitol Tour (%012 810055; St 102)
Golden Bayon Express (%070 968966; St 101)
Mekong Express (%088 576 7668; St 3) Minivans to Phnom Penh, Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok. Handy minibus to Siem Reap.
Phnom Penh Sorya (%092 181804; St 106)
Virak Buntham (St 106)
BUSES FROM BATTAMBANG
| DESTINATION | DURATION (HR) | COST (US$) | COMPANIES | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok, Thailand | 9 | 15-16 | Mekong Express, PP Sorya, Virak Buntham, Capitol | 7.45am, 8.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, noon |
| Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam | 10-11 | 26 | Mekong Express | 7.30am |
| Kompong Cham | 8 | 9 | Rith Mony | 9am |
| Pailin | 1¼ | 4 | Rith Mony | 1pm, 3pm |
| Phnom Penh (day) | 4½-7 | 5-12 | All companies | frequent |
| Phnom Penh (night) | 5-6 | 6-15 | Capitol, Mekong Express, TSS, Virak Buntham | frequent, 10pm to midnight |
| Poipet | 2¼ | 4 | Capitol, PP Sorya, Rith Mony, TSS | regular to 4pm |
| Siem Reap | 3-4 | 4-10 | Capitol, Golden Bayon Express, Mekong Express, PP Sorya, Rith Mony | regular to 3pm |
TAXI
At the taxi station (NH5), share taxis to Phnom Penh (40,000r, 4½ hours) leave from the southeast corner, while taxis to Poipet (20,000r, 1¾ hours) and Siem Reap (26,000r, three hours) leave from north of the market out on NH5.
Share taxis to Pailin (20,000r, 1¼ hours) near the Psar Pruhm/Pong Nam Ron border leave from the east edge of Psar Leu.
8Getting Around
English- and French-speaking remork drivers are commonplace in Battambang, and all are eager to whisk you around on day trips. A half-day trip out of town to a single sight such as Phnom Sampeau might cost US$12, while a full-day trip taking in three sights costs US$16 to US$20, depending on your haggling skills. A moto costs about half that.
A moto ride in town costs around 2000r, while a remork ride starts from US$1.50.
Gecko Moto (%089 924260; St 1; h8am-10pm) and the Royal Hotel rent out motorbikes for US$6 to US$8 per day. Bicycles can be rented at the Royal Hotel, Soksabike, Battambang Bike (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %095 578878; www.thebattambangbike.com; St 2½; tours half-/full-day US$18/38; h7am-7pm) and several guesthouses for about US$2 per day.
GETTING TO THAILAND: REMOTE NORTHERN BORDERS
There are a couple of seldom-used crossings along Cambodia’s northern border with Thailand. The usual 30-day entry to Thailand and Cambodian visas on arrival are available at both borders.
Anlong Veng to Chong Sa-Ngam
The remote Choam/Chong Sa-Ngam crossing (open from 7am to 8pm) connects Anlong Veng in Oddar Meanchey Province with Thailand’s Si Saket Province.
Getting to the border A moto from Anlong Veng to the border crossing (16km) costs US$3 or US$4. Share taxis link Anlong Veng with Siem Reap (20,000r, 1½ hours).
At the border Formalities here are straightforward.
Moving on On the Thai side, find a motorcycle taxi or taxi to take you to the nearest town, Phusing (30 minutes), where buses and sŏrng·tăa·ou (pickup trucks) head to Si Saket and Kantharalak. Or try to hop on a casino shuttle from the border to Phusing, Ku Khan or Si Saket.
Samraong to Surin
The remote O Smach/Chong Chom crossing connects Cambodia’s Oddar Meanchey Province and Thailand’s Surin Province.
Getting to the border Share taxis link Siem Reap with Samraong (30,000r, two hours) via NH68. From Samraong, take a moto (US$5) or a charter taxi (US$15) for the smooth drive to O Smach (40km, 30 minutes) and its frontier casino zone. A private taxi from Siem Reap all the way to the border should cost US$60 to US$70.
At the border The crossing itself is easy.
Moving on On the Thai side walk to the nearby bus stop, where regular buses depart to Surin throughout the day (60B, 70km, 1½ hours).
Around Battambang
The countryside around Battambang is littered with old temples, bamboo trains and other worthwhile sights. Admission to Phnom Sampeau, Phnom Banan and Wat Ek Phnom costs US$3. If you purchase a ticket at one site, it’s valid all day long at the other two.
Prasat BananTEMPLE
(ប្រាសាទភ្នំបាណន់; US$3; h6am-sunset)
It’s a 358-stone-step climb up Phnom Banan to reach Prasat Banan, but the incredible views across surrounding countryside from the top are worth it. Udayadityavarman II, son of Suryavarman I, built Prasat Banan in the 11th century; some locals claim the five-tower layout here was the inspiration for Angkor Wat, although this seems optimistic. There are impressive carved lintels above the doorways to each of the towers and bas-reliefs on the upper parts of the central tower.
Wat Ek PhnomBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(វត្តឯកភ្នំ; US$2)
Hidden behind a colourful modern pagoda and a gargantuan Buddha statue is this atmospheric, partly collapsed 11th-century temple. Wat Ek Phnom measures 52m by 49m and is surrounded by the remains of a laterite wall and an ancient baray (reservoir). A lintel showing the Churning of the Ocean of Milk can be seen above the eastern entrance to the central temple, whose upper flanks hold some fine bas-reliefs. It’s about 10km north of central Battambang.
Phnom SampeauBuddhist Temple
(ភ្នំសំពៅ; US$1)
This fabled limestone outcrop 12km southwest of Battambang along NH57 (towards Pailin) is known for its gorgeous views and mesmerising display of bats, which pour out of a massive cave in its cliff face.
Between the summit and the mobile-phone antenna, a deep canyon descends steeply through a natural arch to a ‘lost world’ of stalactites, creeping vines and bats.
About halfway up the hill, a turn-off leads 250m up to the Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau. An enchanted staircase, flanked by greenery, leads into a cavern where a golden reclining Buddha lies peacefully next to a glass-walled memorial filled with the bones and skulls of some of the people bludgeoned to death by Khmer Rouge cadres, before being thrown through the overhead skylight.
Access to the summit is via a cement road or a steep staircase. The road is too steep for remorks. Moto drivers hang out near the base of the hill and can whisk you up and back for US$4.
WORTH A TRIP
Kompong Luong កំពង់លួង
Kompong Luong has all the amenities you’d expect to find in a large fishing village – cafes, mobile-phone shops, chicken coops, ice-making factories, a pagoda, a church – except that here everything floats. The result is an ethnic-Vietnamese Venice without the dry land. In the dry season, when water levels drop and the Tonlé Sap shrinks, the entire aquapolis is towed, boat by boat, a few kilometres north.
The way to explore Kompong Luong, naturally, is by boat. The official tourist rate to charter a four-passenger wooden motorboat (complete with life jackets) is US$10 per hour for one to three passengers. Homestays (per person US$4-6) are available with local families and meals are available for US$1 to US$2 per person. This is an interesting way to discover what everyday life is really like on the water. You can book a homestay when you arrive at the boat landing.
The jumping-off point to Kompong Luong is the town of Krakor, 32km east of Pursat. From Krakor to the boat landing where tours begin is 1.5km to 6km, depending on the time of year. From Pursat, a moto/remork costs about US$10/20 return. From Phnom Penh, take any Pursat- or Battambang-bound bus.
Kompong Thom កំពង់ធំ
%062 / Pop 68,000
A bustling commercial centre, Kompong Thom is mainly a base from which to explore dazzling Sambor Prei Kuk.
Arunras HotelHOTEL$
(%062-961294; NH6; s/d with fan US$5/8, d with air-con US$15; aW)
Dominating Kompong Thom’s accommodation scene, this central establishment has 58 good-value rooms with Chinese-style decoration and on-the-ball staff. The popular restaurant downstairs dishes up tasty Khmer fare. They also operate the 53-room Arunras Guesthouse (%012 865935; NH6; s/d with fan US$6/8, with air-con US$10/13; aW) next door.
Vimean Sovann GuesthouseHOTEL$
(%078 220333; St 7; s/d with fan US$6/7, with air-con US$12/14; aW)
oKompong Thom RestaurantCAMBODIAN$$
(NH6; mains US$3-8; h7am-10pm; Wv)
With delightful waiters and a pocket-sized terrace overlooking the river, this restaurant is also Kompong Thom’s most adventurous. Unique concoctions featuring Kampot pepper, water buffalo and stir-fried eel appear on the menu of Khmer classics, which come in generous portions.
Canadia BankBANK
(NH6; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)
8Getting There & Around
Dozens of buses travelling between Phnom Penh (US$5, four hours) and Siem Reap (US$5, two hours) pass through Kompong Thom and can easily be flagged down outside the Arunras Hotel. Heading north to Preah Vihear City, share taxis (US$5, two hours) depart in the morning only.
Im Sokhom Travel Agency (%012 691527; St 3) rents bicycles (US$1 a day) and motorbikes (US$5 a day).
GETTING TO THAILAND: WESTERN BORDERS
Pailin to Chanthaburi
The laid-back Psar Pruhm/Ban Pakard border (open from 7am to 8pm) is 102km southwest of Battambang and 18km northwest of Pailin via good sealed roads.
Getting to the border From Battambang, the daily Ponleu Angkor buses to Pailin continue on to this border. Alternatively, take a share taxi to Pailin from Psar Leu in Battambang, then continue to the border by moto (US$5) or private taxi (US$10).
At the border Formalities are extremely straightfoward and quick on both sides.
Moving on Onward transport on the Thai side dries up mid-morning so cross early. In the morning you should be able to find a motorcycle taxi (50B) to the nearby sŏrng·tăa·ou (pickup truck) station, where two morning minibuses head to Chanthaburi (150B, 1½ hours), offering frequent buses to Bangkok.
For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.
Koh Kong to Trat
Getting to the border To cross at the Cham Yeam/Hat Lek border, take a taxi (US$10 plus toll) or moto (US$3 plus toll) from Koh Kong across the toll bridge to Cham Yeam at the border.
At the border Departing Cambodia via the Hat Lek border is actually pretty straightforward, as there are no visa scams for immigration to benefit from.
Moving on Once in Thailand, catch a minibus to Trat (120B), from where there are regular buses to Bangkok (from 254B, five to six hours). Arrange onward transport to Ko Chang in Trat.
For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.
Around Kompong Thom
Sambor Prei Kuk
Cambodia’s most impressive group of pre-Angkorian monuments, Sambor Prei Kuk (សំបូរព្រៃគុក; www.samborpreikuk.com; US$10) encompasses more than 100 brick temples scattered throughout the forest. Originally called Isanapura, it served as the capital of Chenla during the reign of the early-7th-century King Isanavarman. To the delight of Cambodians, the attraction recently became the country’s third Unesco World Heritage site.
Forested and shady, Sambor Prei Kuk has a serene atmosphere. The main temple area consists of three complexes: Prasat Sambor, dedicated to Gambhireshvara, one of Shiva’s many incarnations; Prasat Yeay Peau, which feels lost in the forest, its eastern gateway smothered by an ancient tree; and Prasat Tao (Lion Temple), the largest of the Sambor Prei Kuk complexes, boasting two large and elaborately coiffed stone lions.
Isanborei (%017 936112; www.samborpreikuk.com) S runs a community-based homestay program, offers cooking courses, rents bicycles (US$2 per day) and organises ox-cart rides. It also operates a stable of remorks to whisk you safely to/from Kompong Thom (US$15 one way).
You’ll find plenty of restaurants (mains US$2 to US$4) serving local fare around the large open-air handicrafts market near the temple entrance.
Sambor Prei Kuk is 30km northeast of Kompong Thom via smooth roads. A round-trip moto ride out here should cost US$10, a remork about US$20.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Prasat Preah Vihear ប្រាសាទព្រះវិហារ
The 800m-long temple of Prasat Preah Vihear (adult/child US$10/free; htickets 7.30am-4.30pm, temple to 5.30pm) is the most dramatically situated of all the Angkorian monuments. It sits high atop the Dangkrek escarpment on the Thai border, with stupendous views of Cambodia’s northern plains.
Prasat Preah Vihear consists of a series of four cruciform gopura (sanctuaries) decorated with exquisite carvings, including some striking lintels. Starting at the Monumental Stairway, a walk south takes you to the Gopura of the Third Level, with its early rendition of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, and finally, perched at the edge of the cliff, the Central Sanctuary. Stick to well-marked paths, as the Khmer Rouge laid huge numbers of landmines around Prasat Preah Vihear as late as 1998.
Prasat Preah Vihear and the lands surrounding it were ruled by Thailand in the 19th century, but were returned to Cambodia during the French protectorate. In 1959 the Thai military seized the temple from Cambodia, but the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in the Hague recognised Cambodian sovereignty in a 1962 ruling.
In July 2008 Prasat Preah Vihear was declared Cambodia’s second Unesco World Heritage site. Thai troops soon crossed into Cambodian territory, sparking an armed confrontation. In July 2011 the ICJ ruled that both sides should establish a demilitarised zone. Then in November 2013 the ICJ confirmed its 1962 ruling that the temple belongs to Cambodia. The border area remains tense, but is considered safe.
Driving in from Sra Em, stop at the information centre (Kor Muy; h7am-4.30pm) in the village of Kor Muy. This is where you pay your entry fee, secure an English-speaking guide (US$15), and arrange transport via moto (US$5 return) or 4WD (US$25 return, maximum six passengers) up the 6.5km temple access road, the final 1.5km of which is extremely steep.
Budget lodging is plentiful in the burgeoning town of Sra Em, 23km south of the information centre. Try Sok San Guesthouse (%097 715 3839; s/d with fan US$8/10, with air-con from US$13/15; aW), 1km west of Sra Em’s central roundabout.
With a private car you can get to Prasat Preah Vihear (not to be confused with Preah Vihear City, 110km south) in about three hours from Siem Reap (about US$140 round trip). It makes more sense to break up the long trip with a night in Sra Em, which is just 30km from the temple. Share taxis (US$10 per person, three hours) link Sra Em with Siem Reap. From Sra Em’s central roundabout, you can find a moto to the information centre in Kor Muy (US$10 return).
EXPLORING THE CENTRAL CARDAMOMS PROTECTED FOREST
Although the Central Cardamoms Protected Forest (CCPF) and adjacent wildlife sanctuaries are slowly opening to ecotourism, the opportunities to explore these areas are still somewhat limited, as the ranger stations mostly exist to combat illegal logging, poaching and encroaching. Pursat is emerging as the Cardamoms’ northern gateway.
Osoam Cardamon Community Centre (%016 309075, 089 899895; http://osoamccc.weebly.com) is a great base to explore the region and can organize hiking, dirt-bike and boat trips in the surrounding countryside, as well as day trips and overnights to Phnom Samkos, where elephants roam. The property has seven well-kept rooms (US$6) along with connections to simple guesthouses and homestays (single/double US$5/6) nearby. Electricity is limited and showers come from buckets, but this is about as close to real Cambodia as you can get. Mr. Lim, the enigmatic, self-made Cambodian who runs the place, is becoming a legend among travellers.
Roads and bridges in the area have been upgraded to service a new hydro-dam in Osoam, and you can now get into the park year round. Areas in and near the CCPF are still being de-mined, so stay on roads and well-trodden trails.
From Psar Chaa in Pursat, share taxis and pick-ups serve Kravanh (one hour), Rovieng (two hours) and Pramoay (three hours) year-round. From Pramoay, the track south to Osoam is in rougher shape. It’s passable by moto year-round, but taxis can’t handle it during the height of the wet season. The road south from Osoam to Koh Kong is much better and can accommodate taxis year-round.