Indonesia
Java
Jakarta
Bogor
Bandung
Pangandaran
Batu Karas
Wonosobo
Dieng Plateau
Yogyakarta
Prambanan
Borobudur
Solo (Surakarta)
Around Solo
Malang
Gunung Bromo
Bondowoso
Ijen Plateau
Banyuwangi
Bali
Kuta & Legian
Seminyak & Kerobokan
Canggu & Around
Bukit Peninsula
Denpasar
Sanur
Nusa Lembongan
Nusa Penida
Ubud
Semarapura (Klungkung)
Sideman
Padangbai
Tirta Gangga & Around
Gunung Batur Area
Munduk & Around
Lovina
West Bali
Pemuteran
Nusa Tenggara
Lombok
Gili Islands
Sumbawa
Komodo & Rinca
Flores
West Timor
Sumba
Sumatra
Medan
Banda Aceh
Pulau Weh
Bukit Lawang
Berastagi
Danau Toba
Bukittinggi
Danau Maninjau
Padang
Kalimantan
Central Kalimantan
East Kalimantan
Sulawesi
Makassar
Tana Toraja
Poso
Ampana
Togean Islands
Gorontalo
Manado
Pulau Bunaken
Maluku
Pulau Ambon
Banda Islands
Papua (Irian Jaya)
Jayapura
Sentani
Baliem Valley
Sorong
Raja Ampat Islands
Understand Indonesia
Survival Guide
Indonesia
Pop 261 million / Area 1,904,600 sq km
Why Go?
Indonesia defines adventure: the only limitation is how many of its 17,000-odd islands you can reach before your visa expires. Following the equator, Indonesia stretches between Malaysia and Australia in one long, intoxicating sweep. The nation’s natural diversity is staggering: snowcapped peaks in Papua, sandalwood forests in Sumba, dense jungle in Borneo and impossibly green rice paddies in Bali and Java. Indonesian reefs are a diver’s fantasy, while the surf breaks above are the best anywhere.
But even as the diversity on land and sea run like a traveller’s dream playlist, it’s the mash-up of people and cultures that’s the most appealing. Bali justifiably leads off, but there are also Papua’s stone-age folk, the many cultures of Flores and West Timor, the artisans of Java, mall-rats of Jakarta, orangutans of Sumatra and much more. Whether it’s an idyllic remote beach, a glorious discovery underwater or a Bali all-nighter, Indonesia scores.
When to Go
- Sep–Mar Rainy season; starts later in the southeast. Rain everywhere in January and February.
- Apr–Jun Dry days and high temps that aren’t withering. Hill towns like Bali’s Ubud can be chilly at night.
- Aug High season. Prices peak on Bali and the Gilis; book ahead. Remote spots may also fill up.
Best Activities
Top Indonesian Phrases
Hello Salam
Thank you Terima kasih
Do you speak English? Anda bisa Bahasa Inggris?
Entering the Country
There are many ways into Indonesia: by boat from Malaysia and Singapore, and overland to Kalimantan, Papua and West Timor. But most people will fly, landing at – or transiting through – Jakarta or Bali.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
Java Indonesia’s most populous island; monuments, mosques and temples exist alongside a spectacular tropical landscape spiked with smoking volcanoes..
Bali Indonesia’s most popular island; excellent dining and nightlife, famous beaches, epic surfing and a gracious welcome.
Nusa Tenggara A stunning chain of eastern islands; from Lombok to Timor via Flores you will be tempted by diving, surfing, Komodo dragons and ancient cultures.
Sumatra Wild and largely untamed, Sumatra is epic travel with dense rainforest, pristine reefs and unmatched surf.
Kalimantan Cut by countless rivers, Borneo’s legendary rainforest attracts wildlife enthusiasts and hardened trekkers.
Sulawesi Wind your way through this crazy-shaped island of elaborate funeral ceremonies, trails through terraced rice fields and tarsier-filled jungles.
Maluku Push past isolation of the legendary Spice Islands to discover brilliant coral gardens and jungle-swaddled volcanoes.
Papua Remote Papua is an adventurer’s fantasy. From high-mountain valleys and snaking jungle rivers to translucent coastal waters teeming with life, it offers superb trekking and world-class diving among proud indigenous peoples.
Top Tips
Places of worship Be respectful. Remove shoes and dress modestly when visiting mosques; wear a sash and sarong at Bali temples.
Body language Use both hands when handing somebody something. Don’t display affection in public or talk with your hands on your hips.
Clothing Avoid showing a lot of skin, although many local men wear shorts. Don’t go topless if you’re a woman (even in Bali).
Photography Before taking photos of someone, ask – or mime – for approval
AT A GLANCE
Currency Rupiah (Rp)
Money ATMs and moneychangers are widespread across Indonesia’s cities but may be hard to fi nd once you get off the beaten track.
Visas 30 days on arrival for most visitors
Language Bahasa Indonesian
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | 10,575Rp |
| Canada | C$1 | 10,820Rp |
| Euro | €1 | 15,800Rp |
| Japan | ¥100 | 12,120Rp |
| New Zealand | NZ$1 | 9680Rp |
| UK | UK£1 | 17,320Rp |
| US | US$1 | 13,140Rp |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
Daily Costs
Budget Less than 500,000Rp
Simple rooms less than 200,000Rp
Cheap street meals less than 30,000Rp
Local transport such as becaks from 20,000Rp
Resources
Inside Indonesia (www.insideindonesia.org)
Jakarta Globe (www.thejakartaglobe.com)
Jakarta Post (www.thejakartapost.com)
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia)
Indonesia Highlights
1 Bali Surfing by day, partying at night and absorbing amazing culture.
2 Borobudur Ascending the ancient Buddhist stupa.
3 Yogyakarta Trawling the batik markets.
4 Komodo National Park Gazing at the iconic dragons.
5 Nusa Tenggara Rocking on in hopping Labuanbajo.
6 Sumatra Paying primate-to-primate respects to the orangutans.
7 Pulau Bunaken Diving the pristine walls and coral canyons beneath seas of dimpled glass.
8 Maluku’s Banda Islands Exploring the lovely time capsule.
9 Baliem Valley Hiking along raging rivers and scaling exposed ridges to reach interior Papua’s remote tribal villages.
a Gili Islands Diving and lazing following fun-filled nights.
Java
The heart of the nation, Java is an island of megacities, mesmerising natural beauty, magical archaeological sites and profound traditions in art, music and dance.
Boasting a dazzling array of bewitching landscapes – iridescent rice paddies, smoking volcanoes, rainforest and savannah, not to mention virgin beaches – most journeys here are defined by scenic excesses. The island is at its most excessive in the cities: crowded, polluted, concrete labyrinths that buzz and roar. Dive into Jakarta’s addictive mayhem, soak up Yogyakarta’s soul and stroll though Solo’s batik laneways en route to the island’s all-natural wonders.
Home to 140 million people and the most populated island on earth, Java travel can be slow going, particularly in the west. However, the rail network is generally reliable and efficient, and flights are inexpensive. Your endurance will be rewarded with fascinating insights into Indonesia’s most complex and culturally compelling island.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Jakarta has numerous international and domestic connections. Other useful international gateway Javanese cities are Surabaya, Solo, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Semarang. Domestic flights can be very convenient and affordable: Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Bandung and Surabaya are all well connected to neighbouring islands of Bali, Sumatra and Lombok; if your time is short, it’s worth booking a few internal flights to cut down on those hours on the road.
SEA
Very few travellers now use Pelni passenger ships, but there are connections between Jakarta and most ports in the nation. Ferries run round the clock between Banyuwangi/Ketapang harbour in east Java and Gilimanuk in Bali and also between the Javanese port of Merak and Bakauheni in south Sumatra. Surabaya also has a harbour that offers regular passenger services to destinations such as Kalimantan and Sulawesi.
8Getting Around
The traditional east–west route across Java is Jakarta–Bogor–Bandung–Pangandaran–Yogyakarta–Solo–Surabaya–Gunung Bromo–Gunung Ijen and on to Bali. However, flight connections mean that there are now many more potential points of entry (and exit), such as flying into Semarang and heading down to Yogyakarta from there.
Java has a fairly punctual and efficient rail service running right across the island. Overall, train travel certainly beats long bus journeys, so try to take as many as you can. You can check timetables and make online bookings at www.kereta-api.co.id; it’s in Bahasa Indonesia, so you may need to use Google Translate.
Jakarta
%021 / Pop 10.2 million
One of the world’s greatest megalopolises, Jakarta is a dynamic city of daunting extremes – one that’s developing at a pace that offers challenges and surreal juxtapositions on every street corner. An organism unto itself, this is a town in the midst of a very public metamorphosis, and despite the maddening traffic, life here is lived at an allout rush, driven by an industriousness and optimism that’s palpable. Dysfunction be damned. Translation: it’s no oil painting, yet beneath the unappealing facade of newly built high-rises, relentless concrete and gridlocked streets, fringed with rickety slums and shrouded in a persistent blanket of smog, Jakarta has many faces and plenty of surprises.
1Sights
1Kota & Glodokbog
Kota is Jakarta’s old town where you’ll find the vestiges of old Batavia, the colonial Dutch city of the 18th century. The centrepiece is Taman Fatahillah, Kota’s central cobblestone square, surrounded by imposing colonial buildings. This area includes the historic port of Sunda Kelapa to the north. Just south of Kota, Glodok is the heart of old Chinatown and offers great opportunities to explore in a compact and vibrant area.
oMuseum Bank IndonesiaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pintu Besar Utara III; 5000Rp; 
h8am-3.30pm Tue-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)
This museum presents an engaging and easily consumed history of Indonesia from a loosely financial perspective, in a grand, expertly restored, neoclassical former bank headquarters that dates from the early 20th century. All the displays (including lots of zany audiovisuals) are slickly presented, with exhibits about the spice trade and the financial meltdown of 1997 (and subsequent riots) as well as a gallery dedicated to currency, with notes from every country in the world.
oJin De YuanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Vihara Dharma Bhakti Temple; Jl Kemenangan; hdawn-dusk)
F
This large Chinese Buddhist temple compound dates from 1755 and is one of the most important in the city. The main structure has an unusual roof crowned by two dragons eating pearls, while the interior is richly atmospheric: dense incense and candle smoke waft over Buddhist statues, ancient bells and drums, and some wonderful calligraphy.
Museum WayangMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Puppet Museum; %021-692 9560; Taman Fatahillah; adult/child 5000/2000Rp; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun; 
W)
This puppet museum has one of the best collections of wayang (flat wooden puppets) in Java and its dusty cabinets are full of a multitude of characters from across Indonesia, as well as China, Vietnam, India, Cambodia and Europe. The building itself dates from 1912. Watch for free wayang performances on Sunday (10am to 2pm), which are very popular and crowded. There are also often more elaborate performances on weekends which can be very worthwhile.
Jembatan Kota IntanBRIDGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Kota Intan Bridge; Kali Besar)
At the northern end of Kali Besar is the last remaining Dutch drawbridge, originally called Hoenderpasarbrug (Chicken Market Bridge). Now restored, it dates from the 17th century and is an ideal photo stop.
Museum BahariMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Maritime Museum; %021-669 3406; Jl Pakin 1; adult/child 5000/2000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)
Near the entrance to Sunda Kelapa, several old VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; the Dutch East India Company) warehouses, dating back to 1652, comprise the Museum Bahari. This is a good place to learn about the city’s maritime history, with a sprawling series of galleries covering anything from nautical legends, famous explorers to WWII history in the archipelago. Parts of the museum were damaged in a fire in January 2018 and are being restored; the unaffected areas of the museum remain open to visitors.
Museum Bank MandiriMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Pintu Besar Utara; adult/child 10,000/2000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)F
One of two bank museums within a block of each other might have you scratching your head, but it’s worthwhile popping in to explore the behind-the-scenes inner workings of a bank, and the interior of this fine 1930s art deco structure. Marvel at the marble counters and vintage counting machines, abacuses, old ATMs and colossal cast-iron safes. Pause on the terrace overlooking the Kota hubbub, before taking the grand staircase up to admire stained-glassed panels and the lavish board room.
Museum Sejarah JakartaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jakarta History Museum; Taman Fatahillah; adult/child 5000/2000Rp; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Also known as Museum Kesejarahan Jakarta, the Jakarta History Museum is housed in the old town hall of Batavia, a stately Dutch colonial structure that was once the epicentre of an empire. This bell-towered building, built in 1627, served the administration of the city and was also used by the city law courts. Today it presents a grand white-washed facade to Taman Fatahillah, while inside it has a collection of artefacts.
Museum Seni Rupah Dan KeramikMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics; Taman Fatahillah; adult/child 5000/2000Rp; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Built between 1866 and 1870, the former Palace of Justice building is now a fine arts museum. It houses contemporary paintings with works by prominent artists, including Affandi, Raden Saleh and Ida Bagus Made. Part of the building is also a ceramics museum, charging separate admission, with Chinese ceramics and Majapahit terracottas. Pause and relax in the palm-shaded grounds.
Pasar KemenanganMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Kemenangan; hdawn-dusk)
Be sure to wander down the narrow Kemenangan Market off Jl Pancoran, lined with crooked houses with red-tiled roofs. It’s an assault on the senses, with skinned frogs and live bugs for sale next to vast piles of produce. Stalls extend down even narrower neighbouring alleys.
Sunda KelapaPORT
A kilometre north of Taman Fatahillah (MAP GOOGLE MAP), the old port of Sunda Kelapa still sees the magnificent Makassar schooners (pinisi). In some respects the dock scene here has barely changed for centuries, with porters unloading cargo from sailing ships by hand and trolley, though it’s far less busy today. The much more modern main harbour can also be seen in the distance from here. This entire area is rundown and its waters grotesquely polluted. The many tracts of landfill suggest that redevelopment may not be far off.
1Merdeka Square & Central Jakarta
The huge grassy expanse of Merdeka Square is home to Sukarno’s monument to the nation, and is surrounded by good museums and some fine colonial-era buildings. This part of Jakarta is not about atmospheric streets or idiosyncratic sights, rather its where the nation makes a statement about its stature and prominence.
oMuseum NasionalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; National Museum; %021-386 8172; www.museumnasional.or.id; Jl Medan Merdeka Barat 12; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun)
The National Museum is the best of its kind in Indonesia and an essential visit. The enormous collection begins around an open courtyard of the 1862 building which is stacked with magnificent millennia-old statuary including a colossal 4.5m stone image of a Bhairawa king from Rambahan in Sumatra, who is shown trampling on human skulls. The ethnology section is superb, with Dayak puppets and wooden statues from Nias sporting beards (a sign of wisdom) plus some fascinating textiles.
Monumen NasionalMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Monas; National Monument; Merdeka Sq; adult/student/child 5000/3000/2000Rp, to the top 15,000/5000/2000Rp; h8.30am-5pm, closed last Mon of month)
Ingloriously dubbed ‘Sukarno’s final erection’, the 132m-high National Monument (aka Monas), which rises into the shroud of smog and towers over Merdeka Square, is both Jakarta’s principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former president. Begun in 1961, Monas was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Suharto. The monument is constructed from Italian marble, and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 50kg of gold leaf.
Monumen Irian Jaya PembebasanMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Irian Jaya Liberation Monument; Lapangan Banteng)
The twin towers of this monument with a dodgy provenance soar over grassy Banteng Sq and are topped by a sculpture of a human breaking his chains. It dates to the Sukarno era and was designed as anti-Imperialist propaganda, even as Indonesia took over Irian Jaya (Timor and Papua) despite local protests in 1963. These days some call it the ‘Freedom Monument’.
Mesjid IstiqlalMOSQUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Independence Mosque; Jl Veteran I)F
The striking, modernist Mesjid Istiqlal, highlighted by geometrically grated windows, was designed by Catholic architect Frederich Silaban and completed in 1978. It’s the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, with five levels representing the five pillars of Islam; its dome is 45m across and its minaret tops 90m. During Ramadan more than 200,000 worshippers can be accommodated here. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome. You have to sign in first and then you’ll be shown around by an English-speaking guide on a 20-minute tour.
Lapangan BantengSQUARE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Banteng Square)
Just east of Merdeka Square, Lapangan Banteng is surrounded by some of Jakarta’s best colonial architecture. It was designed by the Dutch in the early 19th century, and called Waterlooplein.
Welcome MonumentMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Salamat Datang; Jl Thamrin)
Set in the centre of a fountain on one of central Jakarta’s most prominent alun-alun (public square) is the Salamat Datang, or Welcome Monument. Built in 1962, it’s just across from the Hotel Indonesia Kempinski, the city’s original luxury hotel.
TTours
oHidden Jakarta ToursTOURS
(%0812 803 5297; www.realjakarta.blogspot.com; per person US$50)
Hidden Jakarta offers tours of the city’s traditional kampung, the urban villages of the poor. These warts-and-all tours take you along trash-choked riverways, into cottage-industry factories and allow you to take tea in residents’ homes.
zFestivals & Events
oIndependence DayCULTURAL
(Hari Kemerdekaan; h17 Aug)
Indonesia’s independence is celebrated; the parades in Jakarta are the biggest in the country.
Jakarta AnniversaryFAIR
(h22 Jun)
Marks the establishment of the city in 1527. Celebrated with fireworks and the Jakarta Fair, a celebration of commerce and culture held at the Jakarta International Expo complex in Kemayoran.
Java Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.javajazzfestival.com; hearly Mar)
Held at the Jakarta International Expo in Kemayoran. Attracts acclaimed international artists, including jazz heavyweights like Ramsey Lewis and Brad Mehldau.
4Sleeping
Jakarta’s central budget options are slowly improving and midrange choices are plentiful; book ahead for both. Jalan Jaksa was once Jakarta’s backpacking hub, but travellers are thin on the ground these days, probably because most hotels on Jl Jaksa are grungy (if not outright sleazy).
oPacker LodgeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0878 8790 3650, 021-629 0162; www.thepackerlodge.com; Jl Kermunian IV 20-22; dm/s/d from 135,000/200,000/300,000Rp; 
aW)
This owner-operated boutique hostel set in Glodok offers hip, Ikea-chic environs and plenty of amenities close to Kota. Choose among the four- and eight-bed dorms where the bunks are curtained pods with electrical outlets, lights and USB charger. There are also very compact singles and doubles. All share common Western baths and a spacious common kitchen.
oWonderloft HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %021-2607 2218; www.wonderloft.id; Jl Bank 6; dm/d incl breakfast 100,000/275,000Rp; a
iW)
Well located for all the sights and sounds around colonial Kota is this lively hostel with cheerful staff and social set-up. In the evenings the lobby is abuzz with backpackers playing pool, beer in hand, to go with darts, foosball and a kitchen busy with guests cooking up food. The dorms have icy air-con and beds equipped with curtains, powerpoints and lamps. It offers walking tours, pub crawls and good info on all things to do in Jakarta.
Hostel 35GUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-392 0331; Jl Kebon Sirih Barat I 35; r with fan & shared/private bathroom 120,000/130,000Rp, with air-con from 250,000Rp; aW)
In a vibrant neighborhood that’s a bit of an old-school backpacker enclave is this atmospheric and well-priced hostel. The clean, if aged, tiled rooms have high ceilings and a faded colonial ambience, and the lobby area with rattan sofas is inviting and decorated with fine textiles and tasteful photography.
Six DegreesHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-314 1657; www.jakarta-backpackers-hostel.com; Jl Cikini Raya 60B-C, Cikini; incl breakfast, dm 115,000-160,000Rp, d with shared/private bathroom 280,000/310,000Rp; aiW)
Run by a helpful and friendly Irish/English/Sumatran team, Six Degrees rightfully remains popular with travellers. There’s a relaxed, sociable atmosphere, a pool table and TV room, a guests’ kitchen and roof garden – complete with bar and gym. Dorms are tight but clean; breakfast is included. The staff here are a good source for local info and onward travel plans.
Hotel Ibis Budget Tanah AbangHOTEL$$
(www.accorhotels.com; Jl Tanah Abang II 35; r incl breakfast from 380,000Rp; aW)
Excellent-value budget chain that’s clean, modern and run by friendly, professional staff. The contemporary lobby is decorated with colour and style, and rooms, though squashy, have good air-con, cable TV and floating bathroom sinks. It’s popular with Western travellers due to its proximity to the main sights, and has a small gym, a coffee shop and complimentary breakfast.
Gondia International GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-390 9221; www.gondia-guesthouse.com; Jl Gondangdia Kecil 22; r incl breakfast 300,000-400,000Rp; aW)
This modest-looking guesthouse, with hostel-esque signage, occupies a leafy garden plot on a quiet suburban street and has 12 spacious tiled rooms. It’s a good low-key choice.
5Eating
Jakarta is a world-class eating destination. You’ll find amazing options, including oh-so-refined Javanese Imperial cuisine, hit-the-spot street grub and, if you’re pining for something familiar, even Western faves.
oHistoriaINDONESIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-3176 0555; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; mains 35,000-51,000Rp; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W)
Historia’s tasty dishes from around the archipelago include fried fish with a Sumatran sambal (Ikan goreng sambal adaliman), Javanese mixed rice and all manner of oxtail – in soup, grilled, deep fried or braised with ground chilli. Served in hip, tiled, warehouse environs with soaring ceilings and a retro-industrial vibe.
Liao Fan Hawker ChanSINGAPOREAN$
(2nd fl Rukan Crown Golf Bldg D 8-10, Pantai Indah Kapuk, North Jakarta; mains 28,000-52,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Famed as the only street-food outlet to be awarded a Michelin Star is this Singaporean eatery that opened in Jakarta in 2017. Its famous dish here is the rather humble soy-sauce chicken and rice (28,000Rp); tasty, but it won’t blow your mind. It’s a simple affair on the 2nd floor above its Michelin Star–sibling Tim Ho Wan (from Hong Kong), a part of the same franchise.
Santong Kuo Tieh 68CHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-692 4716; Jl Pancoran; 10 dumplings 45,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
You’ll see cooks preparing fried and steamed Chinese pork dumplings out front of this humble but highly popular little place. The bakso ikan isi (fish balls) are also good. There are myriad more choices within a few steps.
SerbarasoINDONESIAN$
(MAP; %0812 6896 8910; www.serbaraso.com; Jl Batu Tulis Raya 41; dishes from 15,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
A much more refined version of your usual Padang restaurant is this modern, air-con eatery that originated in Pekanburu, Sumatra. Specialising in Riau food, Serbaraso is most famous for its smoky charcoal-grilled beef rendang (26,000Rp).
Lara DjonggrangINDONESIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-315 3252; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Teuku Cik Ditiro 4; mains 50,000-130,000Rp; h12.30-11pm; W)
While many Jakartan restaurants lack atmosphere, that accusation could never be levelled at Lara Djonggrang. As you enter it’s easy to think you’ve stumbled across some lost temple – one that serves perfectly executed and creatively presented imperial Indonesian cuisine from across the archipelago.
Café BataviaINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-691 5531; www.cafebatavia.com; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 14; mains 55,000-350,000Rp; h9am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W)
In a 200-year-old building overlooking Kota’s old Dutch quarter is this classy bistro styled with a colonial decor of old parlour floors, marble table tops and art-deco furnishings. Its jazz soundtrack adds to the atmosphere and makes it an essential stop for a cocktail or a long lunch or dinner. There’s Indonesian and Western mains, live music and a great coffee selection.
Waha KitchenASIAN$$
(MAP; %021-3193 6868; www.wahakitchen.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 127, Kosenda Hotel; mains from 68,000Rp; h24hr)
A fittingly fashionable bistro occupies the lobby of the designer Kosenha Hotel, with a 24-hour bar and a menu of modern Asian dishes. Expect the likes of char kway teow or salt-and-pepper squid, while in the morning it does Melbourne-inspired brekkies of smashed avocado and poached egg on sourdough etc.
GarudaINDONESIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-6262 9440; Jl Agus Salim 59; mains from 30,000Rp; h24hr; W)
A smoky, fluorescent-lit, all-day, all-night depot of locally loved Padang food goodness, throbbing with Bollywood tunes and Indo-pop, and packed with locals. Little dishes of tempting flavours are piled on your table with lightning speed: jackfruit curry, chilli prawns, tempe penyet (fried tempe with spicy sauce), rendang (beef coconut curry), potato and corn fritters. All of it made fresh.
Sate Khas SenayanINDONESIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-3192 6238; www.sarirasa.co.id; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 31A; mains 30,000-110,000Rp; h8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)
Upmarket air-conditioned restaurant renowned for its superb sate (skewers of chicken, beef and lamb), plus Indonesian favourites such as ayam goreng kremes (fried chicken in batter), gurame bakar (grilled fish) and nasi campur (rice with a choice of side dishes). Look for well-prepared regional specialities, which go well with an iced durian juice or Bintang on tap.
6Drinking & Nightlife
If you’re expecting the capital of the world’s largest Muslim country to be a sober city with little in the way of drinking culture, think again. Bars are spread throughout the city, with casual places grouped around Jl Jaksa, fancy-pants rooftop lounge bars and beer gardens in central and south Jakarta and many more places in between. Cafe culture has really taken off in the last few years.
oTanamera CoffeeCOFFEE
(MAP; %021-2962 5599; www.tanameracoffee.com; Jl Kebon Kacang Raya Blok AA07; coffee from 30,000Rp; h7am-8pm; W)
A real contender for Jakarta’s best cup of coffee is this third-wave roaster that offers a range of single-origin beans from around Indonesia. It now has five branches, but this is the original, and where it roasts its beans. Coffee is prepared either as V60 pour-overs or espresso machine, along with tasty breakfasts and dishes such as soft-shell crab burgers.
oAwan LoungeBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.awanlounge.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 127; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Set on the top floor of Kosenda Hotel is this lovely rooftop garden bar that manages to be both understated and dramatic. There’s a vertical garden, ample tree cover, plenty of private nooks flickering with candlelight and a vertigo-inducing glass skylight that plummets nine floors down. They have a tasty bar menu, electronica thumps at a perfect volume and the crowd is mixed local and expat. Weekends can get overly crowded. Midweek it’s an ideal date-night rendezvous. Cocktails average 120,000Rp.
oJakarta Coffee HouseCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-7590 0570; www.jakartacoffeehouse.com; Jl Cipete Raya 2; coffee from 26,000Rp; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W)
One of the city’s best spots for Indonesian single-origin coffee is this intimate micro-roastery with knowledgeable baristas who can prepare coffee to your tastes. They roast all their beans onsite, sourced from Aceh to Papua.
Paulaner BräuhausPUB
(MAP; %021-2358 3871; Jl Thamrin 1, Grand Indonesia East Mall; beer 300mL/500mL/1L 79,000/94,000/155,000Rp; h11.30am-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
In a country not known for its diversity of beer options, this German-themed pub offers a point of difference with its house-brewed unfiltered lager, dunkel and wheat beer. There’s a menu of hearty Bavarian cuisine, or grab a freshly baked pretzel to enjoy live sports showing on their TVs.
3Entertainment
oTaman Ismail MarzukiPERFORMING ARTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; TIM; %021-3193 7530, 021-230 5146; http://tamanismailmarzuki.jakarta.go.id/; Jl Cikini Raya 73)
Jakarta’s premier cultural centre has a great selection of cinemas, theatres and exhibition spaces. Performances (such as Sundanese dance and gamelan music events) are always high quality and the complex has a couple of good casual restaurants too.
7Shopping
Pasar Jl SurabayaMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Surabaya; h8am-6pm)
Jakarta’s famous street market is in Menteng. It has woodcarvings, furniture, textiles, jewellery, old vinyl records and many (dubious) antiques. Bargain like crazy.
PasarayaDEPARTMENT STORE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.pasaraya.co.id; Jl Iskandarsyah II/2; h10am-10pm)
Opposite the Blok M mall, this department store has two huge floors that seem to go on forever. The slogan here is ‘The pride of Indonesia’, and you’ll see why when you discover the enormous range of handicrafts, such as batik, from throughout the archipelago. It’s a fascinating place to browse; watch for sales.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Cikini Hospital (MAP; %emergency 021-3899 7744, urgent care 021-3899 7777; www.rscikini.com; Jl Raden Saleh Raya 40) Caters to foreigners and has English-speaking staff.
SOS Medika Klinik (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %021-750 5980, emergency 021-750 6001; Jl Puri Sakti 10, Cipete; h24hr) Offers English-speaking GP appointments, dental care, and emergency and specialist healthcare services. Also has a clinic in Kuningan (MAP; %021-5794 8600; 2nd fl Menara Prima bldg, Jl Dr Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung, Kuningan; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat).
POST
Main Post Office (MAP; Jl Gedung Kesenian I; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat). Smaller branches are common. International service is somewhat reliable.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Jakarta Visitor Information Office (MAP; %021-314 2067, 021-316 1293; www.jakarta-tourism.go.id; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 9; h7.30am-5.30pm) Inside the Jakarta Theatre building. A helpful office; the staff here can answer queries and set you up with tours. Practical information can be lacking, but it does have several excellent city-produced publications and maps. There are also desks at the airport.
8Getting There & Away
Jakarta is the main international gateway to Indonesia. It’s a hub for domestic and international flights as well as train services from across Java. Though train travel is the preferred choice for many, bus routes also radiate out in all directions, and there are even some boat services.
AIR
Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (CGK; http://soekarnohatta-airport.co.id) is 35km west of the city centre. All international flights and most domestic flights operate from CGK. Surging passenger numbers mean that it can get chaotic, give yourself plenty of time for formalities.
Halim Perdana Kusuma Airport (HLP; MAP; www.halimperdanakusuma-airport.co.id) is 11km south of Jakarta’s Cikini district. It has a limited domestic service.
BOAT
Pelni shipping services operate on sporadic schedules to ports all over the archipelago. The Pelni ticketing office (MAP; %021-2188 7000, 021-162, 021-633 4342; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Gajah Mada 14) is 1.5km northwest of the Monumen Nasional in central Jakarta.
Pelni ships all arrive at and depart from Pelabuhan Satu (dock No 1) at Tanjung Priok, 13km northeast of the city centre. Transjakarta koridor 10 and 12 provides a direct bus link; a taxi from Jl Jaksa is around 120,000Rp.
BUS
The city’s four major bus terminals – Kalideres, Kampung Rambutan, Pulo Gadung and Lebak Bulus – are all a long way from the city centre. Take the TransJakarta busway to these terminals as the journey can take hours otherwise. Tickets (some including travel to the terminals) for the better buses can be bought from agencies. Note that train travel is a faster, safer, more comfortable and often cheaper option.
Kampung Rambutan (MAP; Rambutan) mainly handles buses to points south and southwest of Jakarta such as Bogor (normal/air-con 10,000/20,000Rp, 45 minutes); Cianjur (air-con 35,000Rp, three hours); Bandung (from 65,000Rp, four to five hours); Pangandaran (normal/air-con 85,000/95,000Rp, eight to nine hours) and Pelabuan Ratu (60,000Rp, four hours via Bogor).
Take Transjakarta bus line 7 to get here.
Pulo Gadung (MAP; Jl Raya Bekasi) covers Bandung, central and east Java, Sumatra, Bali and even Nusa Tenggara. Bandung buses travel the toll road (from 60,000Rp, three hours), as do the long-haul Yogyakarta coaches (150,000Rp to 275,000Rp, 12 hours). Sumatra is another long haul from Jakarta by bus, destinations include Bengkulu (from 330,000Rp) and Palembang (from 230,000Rp).
Take Transjakarta bus lines 2 or 4 to get there.
Lebak Bulus (MAP; Jl Lebak Bulus Raya) runs long-distance deluxe buses to Yogyakarta (from 130,000Rp to 300,000Rp), Surabaya and Bali (prices for both vary by time and season).
Take Transjakarta bus line 8 to get there.
Door-to-doortravelminibuses are not a good option in Jakarta because it can take hours to pick up or drop off passengers in the traffic jams. Unless you’ve the patience of a saint, take a train, plane or bus.
Day Trans (MAP; %021-2967 6767; www.daytrans.co.id; Jl Thamrin; h6am-8pm) Runs hourly minibuses to Bandung (115,000Rp to 125,000Rp) from Jl Thamrin; keep an eye out for sales on its website.
TRAIN
Jakarta’s four main train stations are quite central. Schedules (www.kereta-api.co.id) to cities around Jakarta and across Java are convenient. You can even get a train–ferry–bus connection to Bali. Fares are cheap, so it can be worth buying the best available class of service.
Gambir (Jl Medan Merdeka Utara) is the most convenient and important of Jarkarta’s train stations. It’s on the eastern side of Merdeka Square, a 15-minute walk from Jl Jaksa. It handles express trains to Bandung, Yogyakarta, Solo, Semarang and Surabaya. It is a well-run and modern facility with full services; it’s a good place to buy tickets.
Jakarta Kota (MAP; Jl Asemka) An art-deco gem in its namesake neighbourhood, it has limited services to points as far afield as Surabaya.
Pasar Senen (Jl Let Jen Suprapto-Kramat Bunder) To the east, mostly economy-class trains to the east and south.
Tanah Abang (Jl Jati Baru Raya) Has economy trains to the west.
8Getting Around
Jakarta’s notorious traffic means that there are no great options for getting around that avoid long delays. TransJakarta Busway is the quickest way of getting around.
A new subway system, the Jakarta MRT, is sorely needed and will run along a spine from Kota in the north via Jl Thamrin to Blok M in the south. However the first section won’t open before 2019.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A toll road links Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (CGK) to the city and the journey takes 45 minutes to two hours depending on traffic and final destination. Taxis cost 150,000Rp to 220,000Rp to central Jakarta. Uber and Grab can drop off passengers, but are prohibited from airport pickups – however, you can arrange to meet a bit up from the taxi rank. A new train service links the airport with Sudirman and Manggarai stations within 45 minutes. Otherwise Damri (MAP; %021-550 1290, 021-460 3708; www.busbandara.com; Gambir Station; 40,000Rp; hevery 15 to 30 minutes) buses run to major train stations. Eventually the Transjakarta bus will also be another option along koridor 13.
Halim Perdana Kusama Airport has limited domestic service, a taxi to central Jakarta costs 100,000Rp.
All the major train stations in Jakarta have metered taxis available.
BUS
TransJakarta Busway is a network of air-conditioned buses that run on reserved busways (designated lanes that are closed to all other traffic). They are the quickest way to get around the city. One of the most useful routes is Koridor 1, which runs north to Kota, past Monas and along Jl Sudirman. Stations display maps (www.transjakarta.co.id/peta-rute/).
Fares cost 3500Rp to 9000Rp, which covers any destination in the network (regardless of how many koridor you use). Payment is via a stored value card (40,000Rp, including 20,000Rp credit) which is available from station ticket windows.
TAXI
ATaxis are inexpensive in Jakarta. All are metered and flagfall is 7500Rp, costing around 300Rp for each subsequent 100m after the first kilometre.
ATipping is greatly appreciated.
ANot all taxi drivers speak any English. It helps to have your destination written in Bahasa.
ANot all taxis provide good service. The most reliable taxis are run by Bluebird (%021-794 1234; www.bluebirdgroup.com); they can be found cruising, at taxi stands and at many hotels. Order one using their handy app.
AUber (www.uber.com) and Singapore-based Grab (www.grab.com) offer ride services that can be remarkably cheap (less than US$20 for eight hours driving around town). Order and manage your rides through their apps. Note that there’s no guarantee your driver will speak any English. Tolls and parking fees are extra.
Bogor
%0251 / Pop 1.04 million
‘A romantic little village’ is how Sir Stamford Raffles described Bogor when he made it his country home during the British interregnum. As an oasis of unpredictable weather – it is credited with 322 thunderstorms a year – cool, quiet Bogor was the chosen retreat of colonials escaping the stifling, crowded capital.
Today, the long arm of Jakarta reaches the whole way to Bogor, infecting this satelite city with the overspill of the capital’s perennial traffic and air-quality problems. The city itself isn’t charmless, however. The local people are quite warm and friendly, the world-class botanical gardens are still beautiful and the two are certainly worthy of a sleepover.
1Sights
Tours of Bogor can be arranged through the tourist office (%081 6195 3838; Jl Dewi Sartika 51; h8am-6pm) for around 200,000/300,000Rp per half-day/day. The tours take in a working-class kampung, and various cottage industries including the gong factory and tofu and krupuk (prawn cracker) kitchens. Speak to them about hiking trips into Halimun National Park. For trips to the nearby Gunung Salak, an active volcano, get in touch with Ridwan Guide Bogor (www.ridwanguidebogor.com).
oKebun RayaGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Great Garden; www.krbogor.lipi.go.id; admission 25,000Rp, car 30,000Rp; h8am-7pm)
At the heart of Bogor are the fabulous botanical gardens, known as the Kebun Raya, the city’s green lung of around 87 hectares. Governor General Raffles first developed a garden here, but the spacious grounds of the Istana Bogor (Presidential Palace) were expanded by Dutch botanist Professor Reinwardt, with assistance from London’s Kew Gardens, and officially opened in 1817. Colonial cash crops, such as tea, cassava, tobacco and cinchona, were first developed here by Dutch botanists.
Pasar BaruMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Jl Otto Iskandardinata & Suryakencana; h6am-1pm)
Jl Suryakencana, steps from the garden gates, is a whirlwind of activity as shoppers spill en masse from within the byzantine concrete halls of Pasar Baru onto the street. Inside, the morning market is awash with all manner of produce and flowers, meat and fish, second-hand clothes and more. Hot, sweltering and loud, it’s a hell of a browse.
WORTH A TRIP
SUNDANESE EXPERIENCE
Author Yudhi Suryana (who for years lived in New Zealand) is building the tourism industry in Cianjur, one guest at a time. Through the wonderful Chill Out Guest House (%0813 2172 9004; www.cianjuradventure.com; r incl 3 meals 250,000Rp; W), and through his rare agenda of treks and driving tours, his goal is to offer independent travellers a slice of authentic Sundanese life.
The most popular of several trips is the Traditional Village Tour (175,000Rp per person, lunch included). Guests will take local angkot transport from the centre of Cianjur into the hills, where you’ll follow a concrete gang (footpath) until it flakes away into earth.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tom’s HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %0877 7046 7818; www.tomshomestay.com; r incl breakfast 100,000Rp; W)
Offering a great local experience is this character-filled family home of Tom, who has lived here his entire life. It’s a basic affair, but rooms are spacious and there’s a back verandah to relax while looking onto its jungle-like backyard. It’s a 10-minute walk from the train station. Tom is a wealth of knowledge on what to do in the area.
Cendana Mulia Hostel BogorHOSTEL$
(%0812-8662 795; Jl Cendana Mulia 9; dm/r incl breakfast 120,000/230,000Rp; aW)
In a quiet residential street to the north of town is this popular and chilled-out guesthouse. The whole place is spotless, while the staff are super-friendly. The CCTV in the dorms is a tad off-putting but will ensure your stuff is safe; though you’ll need to change in the bathroom! Prices go up by 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp on weekends.
oDe’ LeuitINDONESIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0251-839 0011; Jl Pakuan III; mains 40,000-105,000Rp; h10am-10pm; W
v)
The most happening eatery in Bogor. There’s seating on three floors beneath a soaring, pyramid-shaped thatched roof, though the best tables are on the first two levels. It does sate (satay), mixed rice dishes, fried gurame (fish), and fried chicken, as well as a variety of local vegie dishes. Come with a group and eat Sundanese family style.
Grand Garden CaféINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0251-857 4070; inside Kebun Raya; mains 45,000-105,000Rp; h8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
The cafe-restaurant in the botanical gardens is a wonderfully civilised place for a bite or a drink, with sweeping views down to the water-lily ponds. It’s a little pricey (especially as you need to pay the 25,000Rp entry fee; though it’s free after 4pm), but the tasty international and Indonesian food and sublime setting make it an essential stop.
8Getting There & Away
Every 15 minutes or so, buses depart from Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan bus terminal (10,000Rp to 15,000Rp, 45 minutes) for Bogor’s bus station, located in the centre of town.
Buses depart frequently to Bandung (air-con, 65,000Rp, 3½ hours), Pelabuhan Ratu (50,000Rp, three hours) and Labuan (50,000Rp, four hours). For Cianjur (25,000Rp to 30,000Rp, two hours), white minibuses (called colt) depart regularly from Jl Raya Pajajaran. Door-to-door travel minibuses go to Bandung for 100,000Rp.
Damri buses head direct to Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (55,000Rp, two to three hours) every 40 minutes from 2am to 8.30pm from Jl Raya Pajajaran.
Express trains (6000Rp to 16,000Rp, one hour) connect Bogor with the capital roughly every hour, though try to avoid travelling during rush hour. Economy trains are more frequent, but they are packed with people – some clinging to the roof.
Bandung
%022 / Pop 2.8 million
A city of punks and prayer, serious religion and serious coffee. Here are teeming markets and good shopping, thriving cafes in reclaimed Dutch relics, palpable warmth and camaraderie on street corners and mind-numbing, air-trashing traffic almost everywhere you look. Almost everything great and terrible about Indonesia can be found in Bandung. You may cringe at the young teens smoking and systemic poverty, and nod with respect at the city’s thriving and growing middle class. Yes, Bandung has everything, except nature, and after the bottle-green hills of Cibodas, the sprawling bulk of Bandung is quite the urban reality check. But even if the local mountains are cloaked in smog, the city does make a good base for day trips to the surrounding countryside – high volcanic peaks, hot springs and tea plantations are all within reach.
There are some fine Dutch art deco structures to admire on Jl Jenderal Sudirman and Jl Asia Afrika, two of the best being the Prama Grand Preanger (www.preanger.aerowisata.com; Jl Asia Afrika 181) and the Savoy Homann Hotel (www.savoyhomann-hotel.com; Jl Asia Afrika 112), both of which have imposing facades. In the north of the city, Villa Isola is another wonderful Dutch art deco structure.
Freelance English-speaking Enoss (%0852 2106 3788; enoss_travellers@yahoo.com) is a good-natured tour guide who runs one-day tours (400,000Rp per person) of the sights to the north and south of the city. The tours get you away from the more predictable touristy locations. He can also set up trips to Pangandaran (800,000Rp) via Garut.
4Sleeping
The AtticHOSTEL$
(%0856 2101 500; www.facebook.com/theatticbedandbreakfast; Jl Juanda 130; incl breakfast, dm 120,000, d with shared/private bathroom 200,000/250,000Rp; aW)
While it’s 4km north of the city, the Attic remains Bandung’s best budget option. It’s run by friendly owners who are helpful in assisting with local travel info and offer tours in the area. The dorms and private rooms are basic, but spotlessly maintained with comfortable beds, and there’s a homely kitchen for self-caterers.
Chez BonHOSTEL$
(%0811 2015 333, 022-426 0600; www.chez-bon.com; Jl Braga 45; dm incl breakfast 150,000Rp; aW)
In the heart of the action is this popular, but institutional-feeling hostel, located up a flight of scruffy marble stairs from Jl Braga. Bunks are set up in two-bed, six-bed and 16-bed arrangements. All are air-conditioned and come with lockers and wi-fi.
8Getting There & Away
Five kilometres south of the city centre, Leuwi Panjang bus terminal has buses west to places such as Cianjur (normal/air-con 20,000/30,000Rp, two hours), Bogor (air-con 70,000Rp, 3½ hours) and to Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan bus terminal (50,000Rp to 65,000Rp, three hours). Buses to Bogor take at least an hour longer on weekends because of heavy traffic. There are daily trains to Jakarta, Surabaya and Yogyakarta.
Pangandaran
%0265 / Pop 52,163
Situated on a narrow isthmus, with a broad stretch of sand on either side and a thickly forested national park on the nearby headland, Pangandaran is west Java’s premier beach resort. It’s built up, especially toward the south end where a jumble of concrete block towers stand shoulder to shoulder across the channel from the national park.
A 6000Rp admission charge is officially levied at the gates on entering Pangandaran.
1Sights
Pangandaran National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Taman Nasional Pangandaran; weekday/weekend 215,000/315,000Rp; h7am-5pm)
The Pangandaran National Park, which takes up the entire southern end of Pangandaran, is a wild expanse of dense forest. Within its boundaries live porcupines, kijang (barking deer), hornbills, monitor lizards and monkeys (including Javan gibbons). Small bays within the park enclose pretty tree-fringed beaches. The park is divided into two sections: the recreation park and the jungle.
Due to environmental degradation, the jungle is usually off limits. Well-maintained paths allow the recreation park to be explored, passing small caves (including Gua Jepang, which was used by the Japanese in WWII), the remains of a Hindu temple, Batu Kalde, and a nice beach on the eastern side. English-speaking guides hang around both entrances and charge around 100,000Rp (per group of four) for a two-hour walk or up to 200,000Rp for a five-hour trip. Pangandaran’s best swimming beach, white-sand Pasir Putih, lies on the western side of the national park.
TTours
It’s still possible to do the once-popular backwater boat trip east of Pangandaran, via Majingklak harbour to Cilacap on the Citandui River, but there are no scheduled connections so you’ll have to charter your own compreng (wooden boat). Boatmen in Majingklak will do the three-hour trip for 550,000Rp. Alternatively, you can call ahead through a tour agent in Pangandaran to Kalipucang harbour and organise a boat from there for the same price.
Popular Green Canyon and Green Valley tours (350,000Rp per person) depart from Pangandaran and usually combine ‘home industry’ visits that take in a sugar, tahu (tofu) or krupuk (prawn cracker) kitchen factory, as well as a wayang golek (three-dimensional wooden puppet) maker. There are also tours to Paradise Island, an uninhabited nearby island with good beaches (including a 5km white-sand beach) and waves.
Mas Rudin (MAP; %0813 8005 6724; www.pangandaran-guide.com) is a tremendous local guide who operates out of MM Books (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Pasanggrahan; h9am-7pm) and offers fair prices on a range of tours. His website is a wealth of information. The guesthouses can organise guides for you as well.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rinjani HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0813 2302 0263, 0265-639757; rinjanipnd@gmail.com; s/d incl breakfast with fan 100,000/130,000Rp, with air-con 130,000/160,000Rp; aW)
A welcoming family-run place with 10 pleasant, tiled rooms with wood furnishings, private porches and clean but cold-water bathrooms. Sweet, quiet and good value. Holiday periods see price increases of up to 100,000Rp.
Mini Tiga HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0265-639436; www.minitigahomestay.weebly.com; off Jl Pamugaran Bulak Laut; s/d/tr incl breakfast with fan 125,000/175,000/195,000Rp, with air-con 216,000/270,000/295,000Rp; iW)
Great brick and wood chalets with reasonable rates. The 13 rooms are clean, spacious and have nice decorative touches – including bamboo walls and batik wall hangings. All have en-suite bathrooms and Western toilets. Good tours and transport tickets are also offered, including a popular tour of the nearby Green Canyon (300,000Rp).
oAdam’s HomestayHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %0265-639396, 0813 2146 1636; www.adamshomestay.com; off Jl Pamugaran Bulak Laut; r incl breakfast 350,000-488,000Rp; aW
s)
Pangandaran’s only real gem is a wonderfully relaxed and stylish guesthouse with artistically presented rooms (many with balconies, beamed ceilings and outdoor bathrooms) spread around a luxurious pool and landscaped verdant Balinese garden bursting with exotic plants, lotus ponds and birdlife. There’s good international and local food available, too, including wonderful breakfasts cooked by German owner, Kirsten.
Rumah Makan ChristiINDONESIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Pamugaran; meals 20,000-40,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
This clean, orderly rumah makan (restaurant), with a large interior and bench seating outside, is a good bet for local food. It fries, grills and stews tofu, chicken and fish, and offers a range of vegetarian dishes too. All authentic Javanese. Pick and mix to your pleasure, then sit at the common table and dine with your new friends.
oPasar IkanSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Fish Market; Jl Raya Timor; fish around 90,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
Pangandaran’s terrific fish market consists of more than a dozen large, open-sided restaurants just off the east beach. Karya Bahari is considered the best – which is why it’s so crowded – but all operate on exactly the same basis.
oBamboo Beach CaféBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jl Pamugaran; h8.30am-late)
This fine beach bar lines up nicely with the waves, and is the perfect location to scout the swell with a cold Bintang in hand, particularly at sunset. Benches and tables with thatched umbrellas wander all the way to the beach. At the time of writing they (and many other beach warung) were about to relocate to the beach 5km west of town.
8Getting There & Away
Pangandaran can be a frustratingly slow and complicated place to get to. The nearest train station, Sidareja, is 41km away. Speak to Mas Rudin about organising train tickets. You’ll need to pay a 6000Rp tourist levy upon entering town.
Most patas (express) buses to Jakarta and Bandung leave from the main bus terminal, 1.5km north from the beach and tourist centre. The Budiman (%0265-339854; www.budimanbus.com) bus depot, about 2km west of Pangandaran along Jl Merdeka also have regular departures, but most swing by the main terminal too. Buses run to Bandung roughly every hour (65,000Rp to 78,000Rp, six hours) and to Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan terminal (85,000Rp to 95,000Rp, eight to nine hours). To Bandung, there are also two daily Sari Harum (%0265-607 7065) door-to-door travel minibuses (100,000Rp, six hours).
To Yogyakarta, Budiman runs five or so minibus services daily (90,000Rp nine hours), while Estu Travel (%0812 2679 2456, 027-4668 4567) has minibuses (130,000Rp, nine hours) leaving at 9am and 8pm. Both leave from the main bus terminal.
From the main bus terminal Sari Bakti Utama Bus Depot there are hourly buses to both Banjar (30,000Rp, two hours) and Sidareja (30,000Rp, 1½ hours) for train connections.
8Getting Around
Pangandaran’s brightly painted becak start at around 10,000Rp and require heavy negotiation; expect to pay around 20,000Rp from the bus terminal to the main beach area. Bicycles can be rented for 20,000Rp per day, and motorcycles cost around 70,000Rp per day.
Batu Karas
%0265 / Pop 3000
The idyllic fishing village and surfing hot spot of Batu Karas, 32km west of Pangandaran, is one of the most enjoyable places to kick back in west Java. It’s as pretty as a picture – a tiny one-lane fishing settlement, with two beaches that are separated by a wooded promontory.
The main surfing beach is the smaller one, and it’s a sweet bay tucked between two rocky headlands. The other is a long black-sand arc parked with pontoon fishing boats that shove off each night looking for fresh catch in the tides. There’s good swimming, with sheltered sections that are calm enough for a dip, but many visitors are here for the breaks, and there’s a lot of surf talk.
On weekends, however, it can become inundated with domestic tourists. The best time to surf and relax here is midweek.
This is one of the best places in Java to learn to surf. The Point (offshore from Java Cove) is perfect for beginners with paddle-in access from the beach, and slow, peeling waves over a sandy bottom. Other waves include The Reef, a deep-water reef break, and Bulak Bender, a challenging right-hander in the open ocean that’s a 40-minute ride away by bike or boat.
4Sleeping & Eating
oTreehouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 3087 6531, 0822 2000 9155; Jl Pantai Indah; r 150,000-250,000Rp)
Offering a unique choice is this charming, double-storey matchbox house with colourful painted Mediterranean-style shutters, and named after the gigantic tree that grows within the building. Its two floors are managed by separate owners, but both have a rustic, vibrant feel and comfy beds. The upper floor has an additional loft space and can sleep six – making it exceptional value.
Bonsai BungalowGUESTHOUSE$
(%0812 2197 8950; Jl Pantai Indah; r with fan/air-con 200,000/250,000Rp; i)
An upgrade from the other beach bungalows is this laid-back choice across the road from the beach, with spartan rooms with attached bathroom, a porch to hang out and an option of air-con. There’s no food here but they can arrange beer.
BK HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0265-7015 708, 0822 6023 7802; www.batukarashomestay.com; Jl Pantai Indah; r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; W)
Terrific-value, fan-cooled rooms, all with floor-to-ceiling glass on one side, high ceilings, wood floors and wi-fi in the restaurant below. No hot water, but that won’t matter much here. It’s set off the main beach parking lot, right in the centre of things.
Beach CornerINDONESIAN$
(mains 15,000-40,000Rp; h6am-10pm)
Plonked directly on the sand on the edge of the surf beach is this aptly named warung, serving Indonesian and Western mains, cold beer and strong Javanese coffee.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport to Batu Karas but it can be reached from Pangandaran by taking a bus to Cijulang (10,000Rp) then an ojek for 20,000Rp to 30,000Rp. Or you can hire a motorbike in Pangandaran (per day 50,000Rp) and drive yourself, or book a pricey private car transfer (300,000Rp). An outrageous rate given the distances involved, but that’s the going rate in high season; bargain for low-season discounts.