BUSES & MINIVANS FROM MAE SARIANG
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok | 536-834 | 12 | 4 departures 4-8pm |
| Chiang Mai | 100-350 | 4-5 | 12.30am, 1am & 1pm |
| Khun Yuam | 150 | 3 | 4 departures 10.30am-4.30pm |
| Mae Hong Son | 150 | 4 | 4am & 5pm |
BUILDING THE DEATH RAILWAY
The so-called ‘Death Railway’ was an astonishing but brutal feat of engineering. Over 12,000 Allied prisoners of war and as many as 90,000 forced Asian labourers died due to disease, poor hygiene, lack of medical equipment and brutal treatment by the Japanese camp guards.
The 415km railway was built during the WWII Japanese occupation of Thailand (1941–45). Its objective was to secure an overland supply route to Burma (Myanmar) for the Japanese conquest of other west Asian countries.
The bridge that spans the ‘River Kwai’ near Kanchanaburi city – now referred to as the Death Railway Bridge – was the only steel bridge built in Thailand; Burma had seven. It was bombed several times by the Allies, but the POWs were sent to rebuild it. When the war’s tide turned, the railway became an escape path for Japanese troops.
On the Thai side, the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) assumed control and continues to operate trains on 130km of the original route between Nong Pladuk, southeast of Kanchanaburi, and Nam Tok.
WESTERN THAILAND
Tall rugged mountains rise up from the central plains to meet Thailand’s western border with Myanmar. Though the distances from population centres are minor, much of the region remains remote and undeveloped with an undercurrent of border intrigue. Kanchanaburi, just a few hours’ bus ride from Bangkok, is a convenient and historical gateway to the region.
Kanchanaburi กาญจนบุรี
%034 / Population 94,600
Kanchanaburi has a dark history as the site of the so-called ‘Death Railway’, a rail route between Thailand and Myanmar built by Allied prisoners of war and conscripted Asian labourers during WWII. It was made famous by the book and movie, The Bridge Over the River Kwai. Kanchanaburi is also an ideal gateway to national parks in Thailand’s wild west, and home to a range of lush riverside resorts.
1Sights
oDeath Railway BridgeHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว, Bridge Over the River Kwai; 
h24hr) 
F
This 300m-long bridge is heavy with the history of the Thailand–Burma Railway, the construction of which cost thousands of imprisoned labourers their lives. Its centre was destroyed by Allied bombs in 1945; only the outer curved spans are original. You’re free to roam over the bridge; stand in a safety point if a train appears. Food and souvenir hawkers surround the bridge, so the site can have a jarring, funfair-like atmosphere; come early or late to avoid the scrum.
oThailand–Burma Railway CentreMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; ศูนย์รถไฟไทย - พม่า; %034 512721; www.tbrconline.com; 73 Th Jaokannun; adult/child 140/60B; h9am-5pm)
This excellent museum balances statistics and historical context with personal accounts of the conditions endured by POWs and other imprisoned labourers forced to build the Thailand–Burma Railway. Kanchanaburi’s role in WWII is thoroughly explained, but most of the museum traces the journey of railway workers from transport in cramped boxcars to disease-ridden labour camps in the jungle, as well as survivors’ fates after the war. Allow time for the poignant video with testimony from both POWs and Japanese soldiers.
Kanchanaburi War CemeteryCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; สุสานทหารพันธมิตรดอนรัก, Allied War Cemetery; Th Saengchuto; h24hr)
Immaculately maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, this, the largest of Kanchanaburi’s two war cemeteries, is right in town. Of the 6982 soldiers buried here, nearly half were British; the rest came mainly from Australia and the Netherlands. As you stand at the cemetery entrance, the entire right-hand side contains British victims, the front-left area contains Australian graves, the rear left honours Dutch and unknown soldiers, and those who were cremated lie at the furthest spot to the left.
JEATH War MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; พิพิธภัณฑ์สงคราม; cnr Th Wisuttharangsi & Th Pak Phraek; 50B; h8.30am-4.30pm)
This small, open-air museum displays correspondence and artwork from former POWs involved in the building of the Death Railway. Their harsh living conditions are evident in the many photos on display alongside personal effects and war relics, including an unexploded Allied bomb dropped to destroy the bridge. One of the three galleries is built from bamboo in the style of the shelters (called attap) the POWs lived in; another has a 10-minute video presentation.
WORTH A TRIP
SIGHTS OUTSIDE KANCHANABURI
Tours are a convenient way to explore the wonderful countryside outside Kanchanaburi. Many tours include bamboo rafting and short jungle treks. Day trips generally cost 800B to 1100B per person, usually including admission fees and lunch.
Erawan National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติเอราวัณ; %034 574222; adult/child 300/200B, car/motorbike 30/20B; h8am-4.30pm) Splashing in cerulean pools under Erawan Falls is the highlight of this 550-sq-km park. Seven tiers of waterfall tumble through the forest, and bathing beneath these crystalline cascades is equally popular with locals and visitors. Reaching the first three tiers is easy; beyond here, walking shoes and some endurance are needed to complete the steep 2km hike (it’s worth it to avoid the crowds in the first two pools). There are hourly buses from Kanchanaburi (50B, 1½ hours).
Hellfire Pass Memorial (พิพิธภัณฑ์ช่องเขาขาด; %034 919605; Hwy 323; hmuseum 9am-4pm, grounds 7.30am-6pm) A poignant museum and memorial trail pay tribute to those who died building the Thailand–Burma Railway in WWII. Begin at the museum and ask for the free audio guide, which provides historical detail and fascinating first-person accounts from survivors. Then descend behind the museum to a trail following the original rail bed. The infamous cutting known as Hellfire Pass was the largest along the railway’s length and the most deadly for the labourers forced to construct it.
4Sleeping
Blue Star Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %064 984 4329, 034 512161; www.bluestar-guesthouse.com; 241 Th Mae Nam Khwae; d with fan/air-con 350/450B, bungalow 550-750B; 
a
W)
Nature wraps itself around Blue Star’s waterside lodgings, which range from simple rooms and thatch-roofed huts to more solid, bungalow-style accommodation. With a jungly vibe and helpful staff, this family-run guesthouse is one of the best budget choices in town.
Sugar Cane 2 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034 514988; Th Cambodia; d with fan/air-con 300/550B; aW)
Though it feels way out in the countryside, Sugar Cane 2 is just a 10-minute walk from the restaurants and bars of Th Mae Nam Khwae. A spot of renovation wouldn’t hurt, but both land-side rooms and the bamboo-made raft rooms are a fair price.
oSabai@KanRESORT$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %034 521559; www.sabaiatkan.com; 317/4 Th Mae Nam Khwae; incl breakfast d 1400-1700B, tr 2100B; aW
s)
Hospitable and impeccably managed, this boutique resort has modern cream-and-mahogany rooms arranged around a swimming pool. Rooms have huge windows overlooking the pretty poolside garden, and it has the feel of a haven despite being close to Kanchanaburi’s main tourist drag.
Ban Sabai SabaiGUESTHOUSE$$
(%089 040 5268; www.bansabaisabai.com; 102/3 Mu 4, Nong Bua; d 400-800B, f from 1650B; aW)
Out in the countryside, 7km or so west of town along Hwy 323, this friendly place lives up to its name: ‘Relaxation House’. Tile-floored rooms arranged around the florid garden are simple but very well maintained, and hosts can arrange anything from cooking classes to onward transport.
You can ask ahead for a free pick-up from town, but it’s best to have your own wheels if staying here for a few days.
5Eating
oBlue RiceTHAI$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.applenoikanchanaburi.com; 153/4 Mu 4, Ban Tamakahm; mains from 135B; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; W
v)
Masterful spice blends, a creative menu and peaceful river views make this one of the most irresistible restaurants in Kanchanaburi. The signature massaman curry is perfectly balanced, and the menu is packed with reinvented Thai classics such as yam sôm oh (pomelo salad) and chicken-coconut soup with banana plant. The eponymous rice is stained with pea-flower petals, if you’re wondering.
On’s Thai-IssanVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %087 364 2264; www.onsthaiissan.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae; mains from 70B; hnoon-10pm; v)
At this casual restaurant, vegetarian and vegan recipes borrow Isan flavours and reinvent classic Thai dishes from entirely plant-based ingredients, with other healthy flourishes such as brown rice. Banana flower salad, ginger tofu and ‘morning glory’ (pan-seared greens) are cooked before your eyes on fryers outside and served in generous portions.
JJ MarketMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Th Saengchuto; snacks from 15B; h5.30-10pm)
One of Kanchanaburi’s most popular night markets for food, clothes and souvenir shopping. Graze to your stomach’s content on banana fritters, griddled quail eggs, barbecued cuttlefish, mango sticky rice and deep-fried everything.
8Information
Main Post Office (Th Saengchuto; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Thanakarn Hospital (%034 622366; off Th Saengchuto) The best-equipped hospital to deal with foreign visitors.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %034 511200; www.tourismthailand.org/Kanchanaburi; Th Saengchuto; h8.30am-4.30pm) Provides free maps of the town and province, along with bus timetables.
Tourist Police (%034 512795; Th Saengchuto)
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Kanchanaburi’s bus station (%034 515907; Th Lak Meuang) is in the centre of town just off Th Saengchuto, and minivans outnumber buses. There are also minivans to Bangkok catering to tourists; these pick up passengers along Th Mae Nam Khwae.
BUSES FROM KANCHANABURI
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok Khao San Rd | 120 | 2½ | frequent (minivan) |
| Bangkok Northern (Mo Chit) bus terminal | 100-150 | 2½ | frequent (minivan) |
| Bangkok Southern (Sai Tai Mai) bus terminal | 100 | 2½ | every 20min (minivan) |
| Chiang Mai | 594 | 10-11 | three daily (8.30am, 6pm, 7pm) |
| Hua Hin | 220 | 3½ | every two hours (5am-6pm) |
| Nong Khai | 495-829 | 11 | one daily (7pm) |
| Ratchaburi | 50 | 2½ | every 20min |
| Sangkhlaburi (via Thong Pha Phum) | 145-175 | 3½-5 | every 30min (7am-5pm |
| Suphanburi | 48-65 | 2½ | every 30min |
TRAIN
Kanchanaburi is on the Bangkok Noi–Nam Tok rail line, which includes a portion of the Death Railway. The SRT promotes this as a historic route, and so charges foreigners 100B for any one-way journey along the line, regardless of the distance.
Trains to Bangkok Noi (three hours) depart at 7.19am and 2.48pm.
8Getting Around
Motorcycles can be rented at guesthouses and shops along Th Mae Nam Khwae for around 200B per day. Bicycle rentals cost from 50B per day.
Yellow and blue sŏrng·tăa·ou (passenger pick-up trucks) run up and down Th Saengchuto (get off at the cemetery if you want the guesthouse area) for 10B per passenger. A motorcycle taxi from the bus station to the guesthouse area will cost around 50B.
Sangkhlaburi สังขละบุรี
%034 / Population 8000
Remote Sangkhlaburi is girded by forest and has the Khao Laem Reservoir almost entirely surrounding the town. Short-term visitors spend their days canoeing, trekking or shopping for handicrafts. Sangkhlaburi is also one of the most multicultural places in Thailand, with Thai, Karen and Mon locals mingling with Lao and Burmese.
1Sights & Activities
oSaphan MonBRIDGE
(สะพานมอญ )
Sangkhlaburi’s iconic, 440m-long wooden bridge, the largest in Thailand, was dubbed the ‘bridge of faith’ after being built largely through manual labour. Saphan Mon connects the main town, home mostly to Thai and Karen, with the Mon settlement. This village is a striking place to explore, peopled by cheroot-smoking women, sarong-wearing men and faces covered in thanaka (a yellow paste made from tree bark, used both as sunblock and decoration). Parts of the bridge are uneven, so watch your step.
Khao Laem ReservoirLAKE
(เขื่อนเขาแหลม ) Backed by fuzzy green hills, the gigantic lake wrapped almost entirely around Sangkhlaburi was formed in the 1980s by the Vajiralongkorn Dam (Khao Laem Dam, เขื่อนวชิราลงกรณ์; h6am-6pm) F.
Two of the villages submerged under the new lake were moved up to their present location; Saphan Mon was built to connect them. About all that remains now are ruined buildings from three temples. A boat ride (Saphan Mon; per person 500B) allows you to see them up close, as well as feel the pace of life on the lake.
Sangkhlaburi Jungle TrekkingTREKKING
(%085 425 4434; jarunsaksri1@gmail.com)
The forest around Sangkhlaburi is wilder and less visited than most trekking destinations in northern Thailand. ‘Jack’, who has years of experience as a guide, can tailor trips for different fitness levels and for family groups, but the most adventurous option is a week hiking the Myanmar border from Sangkhlaburi to Um Phang, staying in Karen villages along the way.
WORTH A TRIP
SAI YOK NATIONAL PARK
Sai Yok National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติไทรโยก; %034 686024; www.dnp.go.th; adult/child 300/200B; hdaylight hours) Caves, waterfalls and forest trails draw walkers to Sai Yok National Park (958 sq km). The main sights are easily reached from the visitors centre, including the park’s best known attraction, Sai Yok Yai Waterfall (Nam Tok Sai Yok Yai, น้ำตกไทรโยคใหญ่ ). Here, a stream makes a short, graceful drop into Mae Nam Khwae Noi. Trails are well marked and maintained; most are open to bikes. This mixed forest, home to rare wildlife including hog-nosed bats and unusual freshwater crabs, never gets nearly as crowded as Erawan.
The park is halfway between Kanchanaburi and Sangkhlaburi – buses (60B, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes) going in either direction will drop you at the park turn-off by request.
4Sleeping & Eating
P GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%081 450 2783, 034 595061; www.p-guesthouse.com; off Th Si Suwankhiri; d with fan 300B, d/tr with air-con 400/600B; aW)
You don’t often get views like this on a budget. Stone and log-built rooms gaze upon tranquil waters at this family-run spot. Fan rooms share cold-water bathrooms, while air-conditioned rooms have en suites and the best views. The restaurant is a fantastic place to lounge. You can rent a canoe almost from your door.
oPhu Chom Mork ResortRESORT$$$
(%064 964 7767; www.phuchommorkresort.com; 32/6 Mu 3, Nong Lu; d incl breakfast 1500-2000B; aW)
Delightful service and verdant surrounds set Phu Chom Mork apart as Sangkhlaburi’s fanciest place to stay. Spacious rooms with sumptuous stone-effect bathrooms are spread across banan-tree-hemmed parkland, where your only soundtrack is crickets and the pounding rain.
oBaan Unrak BakeryVEGETARIAN, BAKERY$
(%034 595 006; www.baanunrak.org; Th Si Suwankhiri; snacks 25-90B, mains 80-150B; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; Wv) 
S
This mostly vegan cafe, part of the nonprofit Baan Unrak organisation, is a crowd-pleaser for its meat-free pad thai, green curry and freshly baked pizzas, not to mention the home-made baked goods, from banana sponge cake to chocolate doughnuts.
Toy’sTHAI$
(Th Sangkhlaburi; mains 50-150B; h9am-8pm Sat-Thu)
Superb Isan-style dishes are served with a smile at Toy’s. Offerings vary according to what’s in season, but you can expect gài tôrt (crispy-coated fried chicken) and lâhp kôo·a (spicy, herb-speckled mincemeat salad) as well as thick, flavourful massaman curry.
8Getting There & Away
From a parking lot (off west end of Thetsaban 1) on the west side of the town centre, old red buses depart for Kanchanaburi (130B, four hours, 6.30am, 8am, 9.30am and 1pm) and air-conditioned buses go to Bangkok’s Mo Chit terminal (281B, seven hours, 8.30am). Minivans to Kanchanaburi (175B, 3½ hours, almost hourly) depart near Blend Cafe (Soi Thetsaban 1; h8am-8pm; W), where you can buy bus tickets and check schedules at a kiosk window.
Mae Sot แม่สอด
%055 / Population 52,000
Remote Mae Sot is among the most culturally diverse cities in Thailand. Walking the town’s streets you’ll see a fascinating ethnic mixture of Burmese men in their longyi (sarongs), Hmong and Karen women in traditional hill-tribe dress, bearded Muslims, Thai army rangers and foreign NGO workers.
Although there aren’t many formal sights in Mae Sot, many visitors end up staying longer than expected. The multicultural vibe, fun activities and good food have become attractions in their own right.
1Sights & Activities
Border MarketMARKET
(ตลาดริมน้ำเมย; Rte 12/AH1; h7am-7pm)
Alongside Mae Nam Moei on the Thai side is an expansive market that sells a mixture of workaday Burmese goods, black-market clothes, cheap Chinese electronics and food, among other things. It’s located 5km west of Mae Sot; sŏrng·tăa·ou depart from a spot on Th Chid Lom between approximately 6am and 6pm (20B).
Herbal SaunaBATHHOUSE
(Wat Mani, Th Intharakhiri; 20B; h3-7pm)
Wat Mani has separate herbal sauna facilities for men and women. The sauna is towards the back of the monastery grounds, past the monks’ gù·đì (living quarters).
4Sleeping & Eating
Sleep Nest HostelHOSTEL$
(%081 845 5579; www.facebook.com/sleepnesthostel; Th Intharakhiri; dm 300-450B; aW)
Pod-like dorm beds in a roomy, young, artsy hostel. The more expensive pods are at ground level and offer much more leg room. The shared facilities have a bar-like feel, and bathrooms are clean and convenient.
Phan Nu HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%081 972 4467; 563/3 Th Intharakhiri; r 300-500B; aW)
This place consists of 29 large rooms in a residential strip just off the street. Most rooms are equipped with air-con, TV, fridge and hot water, making them a good deal.
Lucky Tea GardenBURMESE$
(Th Suksri Rat-Uthit; mains 10-50B; h6am-6pm)
For the authentic Burmese teashop experience without crossing over to Myawaddy, visit this friendly cafe equipped with sweet tea, tasty snacks and, of course, Burmese pop music.
oKhaomao-KhaofangTHAI$$
(www.khaomaokhaofang.com; 382 Rte 105; mains 120-490B; h11am-10pm; v)
Like dining in a gentrified jungle, Khaomao-Khaofang replaces chandeliers with hanging vines, and interior design with orchids and waterfalls. Try one of the several delicious-sounding yam (Thai-style spicy salads) featuring ingredients ranging from white turmeric to local mushrooms.
The restaurant is north of town between the Km 1 and Km 2 markers on Rte 105, which leads to Mae Ramat.
Khrua CanadianINTERNATIONAL, THAI$$
(www.facebook.com/KruaCanadianRestaurant; 3 Th Sri Phanit; dishes 40-280B; h7am-3pm & 7-10pm; Wv)
This is the place to go if you want to forget you’re in Asia for one meal. Dave, the eponymous Canadian, brews his own coffee and also offers home-made bagels, deli meats and cheeses. The servings are large, the menu is varied and, when you finally remember you’re in Thailand again, local information is also available.
GETTING TO MYANMAR: MAE SOT TO MYAWADDY
The 420m Friendship Bridge links Mae Sot and Myawaddy, in Myanmar’s Kayin State.
Getting to the border Sŏrng·tăa·ou make frequent trips between Mae Sot and the Friendship Bridge from 6am to 6pm (20B).
At the border After the Thai immigration booth (%055 563004; Rte 12/AH1; h5.30am-8.30pm) cross to the Myanmar immigration booth (%95 0585 0100; Bayint Naung Rd; h5am-8pm (Myanmar time)), from where, if you have a Myanmar visa, you are free to proceed to onward destinations. Otherwise you must pay a fee of 500B for a temporary ID card at the Myanmar immigration booth, which allows you to stay in Myawaddy until 8pm the same day; your passport will be kept at the border.
Moving on About 200m from the border are white share taxis. Destinations include Mawlamyine (10,000K, four to six hours) and Hpa-an (9000K, six hours) and Yangon (K25,000, 14 hours). There’s also a daily bus to Yangon (15,000K, 14 hours, 5am).
For information on making this crossing in reverse see here.
7Shopping
Municipal MarketMARKET
(off Th Prasatwithi; h6am-6pm)
Mae Sot’s municipal market is among the largest and most vibrant we’ve encountered anywhere in Thailand. There’s heaps of exotic stuff from Myanmar, including Burmese bookshops, sticks of thanaka (the source of the yellow powder you see on many faces), bags of pickled tea leaves and velvet thong slippers from Mandalay.
Borderline ShopARTS & CRAFTS
(www.borderlinecollective.org; 674/14 Th Intharakhiri; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Selling arts and crafts made by refugee women, Borderline gives its profits back to a women’s collective and a child-assistance foundation. The upstairs gallery sells paintings, and the house is also home to a tea garden and cookery course.
8Getting There & Away
Mae Sot’s tiny airport (%055 563620; Rte 12/AH1) is about 2km west of town. At research time, Nok Air (%Mae Sot 055 563883, nationwide 1318; www.nokair.co.th; Mae Sot Airport, Rte 12/AH1; h9am-5.30pm), with four daily flights to/from Bangkok’s Don Muang International Airport (from 1649B, 65 minutes), was the only airline operating out of Mae Sot.
All long-distance sŏrng·tăa·ou, minivans and buses leave from Mae Sot’s bus station (%055 563435; Rte 12/AH1), located 1.5km west of town; a motorcycle taxi to/from here should cost about 50B.
BUSES FROM MAE SOT
| DESINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok | 290-580 | 7-8 | frequent 8am-9.50pm |
| Chiang Mai | 290 | 5-6 | 6.15am & 10pm |
| Chiang Rai | 374 | 9 | 7am |
| Lampang | 223 | 4 | 6am, 7am & 10am |
| Mae Sai | 416 | 12 | 7am |
| Phitsanulok | 172 | 4 | 4 departures 7am-2.40pm |
| Sukhothai | 133 | 3 | 4 departures 7am-2.40pm |
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
The northeast is Thailand’s forgotten backyard. Isan (ee·săhn), as it’s usually called, offers a glimpse of the Thailand of old: rice fields run to the horizon, water buffalo wade in muddy ponds, silk weavers work looms under their homes, and pedal-rickshaw drivers pull passengers down city streets.
Spend even just a little time here and you’ll discover as many differences as similarities to the rest of Thailand. The language, food and culture are more Lao than Thai, with hearty helpings of Khmer and Vietnamese thrown into the mix. Yet, Isan is also home to some of Thailand’s best historic sites, national parks and festivals. Thailand’s tourist trail is at its bumpiest here (English is rarely spoken), but the fantastic attractions and daily interactions could end up being highlights of your trip.
Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) โคราช
%044 / Population 151,450
Nakhorn Ratchasima is a big, busy city that serves as the gateway to Isan. Khorat, as most people call the city, is at its best in its quieter nooks, where local life goes on in a fairly traditional way and you are more likely to run into a meter-long monitor lizard than another traveller.
Sansabai HouseHOTEL$
(%044 255144; www.sansabai-korat.com; Th Suranaree; r with fan 300B, with air-con 500-800B; 
naW)
This clean, quiet and friendly place has long been supplying the best budget beds in Khorat. Rooms have good mattresses, mini-fridges and little balconies.
Wat Boon Night BazaarTHAI$
(Th Chomphon; h5-9.30pm)
This is the largest night market inside the old town. All the usual Thai and Isan dishes are available for takeaway.
Laap LoyTHAI$
(Th Yommarat; mains 50-150B; h11am-8.30pm; W)
A contemporary Isan restaurant in front of the Thai Inter Hotel with a mix of the classic, including kôoa nòr mái dong (roasted fermented bamboo shoot) and a fantastic đôm sâap, and the modern, like fried lâhp and fish lăam cooked in a pan rather than a bamboo tube. Unfortunately there’s no English menu, but there are lots of pictures on the wall to point at.
WORTH A TRIP
Phimai พิมาย
Phimai, the architectural inspiration for Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, is one of the grandest ancient monuments in Thailand. It’s an easy day trip from Nakhon Ratchasima. Frequent buses and minivans (50B, 1½ hours) travel here from Khorat’s Bus Terminal 1.
Phimai Historical Park (อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์พิมาย; %044 471568; Th Ananthajinda; 100B; h7am-6pm, visitors centre 8.30am-4.30pm) Prasat Phimai is one of the most impressive Khmer ruins in Thailand, both in its grand scale and its intricate details. Though built as a Mahayana Buddhist temple, the carvings feature many Hindu deities, and many design elements – most notably the main shrine’s distinctive prang tower – were later used at Angkor Wat. There has been a temple at this naturally fortified site since at least the 8th century, though most of the existing buildings were erected in the late 11th century by Khmer king Jayavarman VI.
Phimai National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติพิมาย; %044 471167; Th Tha Songkhran; 100B; h9am-4pm) One of the biggest and best museums in Isan, the Phimai National Museum is well worth a visit. Situated on the banks of Sa Kwan, a 12th-century Khmer reservoir, the museum consists of two spacious buildings housing a fine collection of Khmer sculptures from not just Phimai but also many other ruins from around Isan. Though the focus is on the Khmer era, there are also artefacts from Muang Sema, distinctive trumpet-mouthed and black Phimai pottery from Ban Prasat, and Buddha images from various periods.
Sai Ngam (ไทรงาม; hdaylight hours) A bit east of town is Thailand’s largest and oldest banyan tree, a 350-plus-year-old giant spread over an island. The extensive system of interlocking branches and gnarled trunks makes the ‘Beautiful Banyan’ look like a small forest.
8Information
Bangkok Hospital (%044 429999; www.bangkokhospital.com; Th Mittaphap) Has a 24-hour casualty department and many English-speaking doctors.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %044 213666; tatsima@tat.or.th; 2102-2104 Th Mittaphap; h8.30am-4.30pm) Khorat’s branch of TAT is inconveniently located outside the centre of town next to the Sima Thani Hotel.
8Getting There & Away
Khorat has two bus terminals. Terminal 1 (bor kŏr sŏr nèung; %044 242899; Th Burin) in the city centre serves Bangkok (191B, 3½ to four hours, frequent) and most towns within the province, including Pak Chong (56B to 72B, 1½ to two hours, frequent from 5.30am to 6.30pm). Buses to most other destinations use the confusing and chaotic Terminal 2 (bor kŏr sŏr sŏrng; %044 256007; Hwy 2), north of the centre.
Khorat Train Station (%044 242044) has 10 daily trains to/from Bangkok (50B to 425B, five to seven hours), via Ayuthaya. There are also nine trains to Ubon Ratchathani (58B to 453B, five to six hours). Khorat’s smaller Chira Train Station (Jira Train Station; %044 242363) is closer to the old city, so it may be more convenient to get off there.
BUSES & MINIVANS FROM NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KHORAT)
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aranya Prathet (border with Cambodia) | 150 | 4 | 7 departures 5.30am-6pm |
| Ayuthaya (minivan) | 132 | 3½-4 | frequent 5.40am-6.20pm |
| Bangkok | 148-508 | 4 | frequent |
| Bangkok (minivan) | 171 | 4 | frequent 6.30am-7.30pm |
| Chiang Mai | 526-613 | 13 | 7 departures 3am-8.30pm |
| Lopburi | 149 | 4-4½ | 6am, 10.45am, 1.30pm |
| Lopburi (minivan) | 130 | 3½-4 | every 40min 4.50am-6.30pm |
| Nang Rong | 60-95 | 2 | hourly |
| Nang Rong (minivan) | 64 | 2 | every 30min 4.30am-8.10pm |
| Nong Khai | 257-409 | 6 | 11 departures, most in the afternoon |
| Surin | 115-218 | 4 | every 30min |
| Trat | 297-409 | 8-9 | 7 departures |
| Ubon Ratchathani | 248-386 | 7-8 | hourly |
| Vientiane (must already have Lao visa) | 900 | 6 | 11.30am |
Khao Yai National Park อุทยานแห่งชาติเขาใหญ่
Khao Yai is Thailand’s oldest and most visited national park. Covering 2168 sq km, Khao Yai incorporates one of the largest intact monsoon forests remaining in mainland Asia, which is why it was named a Unesco World Heritage site. But despite its size, it’s one of the easiest national parks in Thailand for independent travellers to visit.
TREKKING IN KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK
There are five hiking trails through the forest that visitors can walk on their own. All other forest hiking requires a guide. Park rangers can be hired as guides (500B to 1000B per group depending on the time) through the visitors centre. They can also lead you on longer off-trail treks, but deep forest exploration is best done with a private guide arranged through tour companies and hotels. Bobby’s Apartments & Jungle Tours (%086 262 7006; www.bobbysjungletourkhaoyai.com; off Mittaphap Rd, Pak Chong) and Greenleaf Guesthouse & Tour (%089 424 8809; www.greenleaftour.com; Th Thanarat, Km 7.5) both come recommended. The Khao Yai National Park Visitors Centre (%086 092 6529; Khao Yai National Park; h6am-9pm, staffed from 8am) has details of all the trails.
No matter where you hike, you should wear boots and long trousers. During the rainy season leeches are a problem. Mosquito repellent helps keep them away, but the leech socks sold in the visitors centre work much better.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are campsites and a variety of rooms and bungalows around the park; none have air-con. There’s a 30% discount Monday to Thursday. Note that you must book from the annoying national-park website (http://nps.dnp.go.th/reservation.php) or in person at the park. Lodging is often fully booked except for low-season weekdays. Tent rental is almost always available. There are also many restaurants inside the park, and outside the park on Th Thanarat.
Khao Yai Garden LodgeHOTEL$
(%094 191 9176, 044 936352; www.khaoyaigardenlodge.com; Th Thanarat, Km 7; tw/tr with fan and shared bathroom 350/450B, incl breakfast d & tw with air-con 1150-2450B; na
iWs)
One of Khao Yai’s veteran resorts, this vast place is in need of TLC. For midrange rooms you can do better elsewhere, but these are just about the only truly budget rooms between Pak Chong city and the park that you can take without having to join a tour – although most do join because the tours are very good.
8Getting There & Away
Pak Chong is the base town for the park and is served by frequent minivans (66B, 1½ hours) and occasional buses (56B, two hours) from Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and Bangkok (160B, three hours, every 30 minutes). If you’re coming from Ayuthaya, the train to Pak Chong (23B to 363B, two to three hours, 10 daily) is a good option.
Sŏrng·tăa·ou (Th Mittaphap) travel the 30km from Pak Chong down Th Thanarat to the park’s northern gate (40B, one hour) every 30 minutes from 6am to 5pm. The last sŏrng·tăa·ou from the park gate back to Pak Chong departs around 3pm.
GETTING TO MYANMAR: PHU NAM RON TO DAWEI
Myanmar visas are not available at this remote border. Note that you cannot enter Myanmar here with an e-visa.
Getting to the border There are around six daily buses (70B to 80B, two hours) and minivans (100B, 1½ hours) from Kanchanaburi’s bus station right to the border starting at 9am. If you leave early you can make it to Dawei in a day, though there are guesthouses in Phu Nam Ron if you need them.
At the border After getting stamped out of Thailand, wait for the shuttle (50B) or take a motorcycle taxi to Myanmar immigration. Formalities are hassle-free, though a bit slow, on both sides.
Moving on Not far from immigration, you’ll be introduced to minivan drivers who will take you to Dawei for 800B per person, though this is sometimes negotiable. It’s five hours through the beautiful mountains to Dawei on what is still a mostly dirt – and sometimes rough – road, though improvements are under way.
For information on making this crossing in reverse see here.
Phanom Rung Historical Park
The most spectacular Khmer monument in Thailand, Prasat Phanom Rung (‘Big Mountain Temple’) sits on the summit of a spent volcano 200m above the paddy fields. The dramatic entrance and beautiful design make it a must-visit attraction for anyone in the area. Down below is the wonderful but often overlooked Prasat Muang Tam (‘Lower City Temple’), which is also part of the historical park. It’s smaller and less complete, but the peaceful setting – you’ll often have it to yourself – and unique design make many people prefer it over its more famous neighbour.
4Sleeping
Phanom Rong can be visited on a day trip from Nakhon Ratchasima or Surin, although some people spend the night in Nang Rong, the nearest town to the temple.
Thanyaporn HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%087 431 3741; r incl breakfast 500-800B; naW)
This modern and cosy guesthouse is just 500m southwest of Prasat Muang Tam ruins, and staying here lets you enjoy village life without needing to rough it. It’s the big orange house where the road curves.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport to Phanom Rung or Muang Tam. The best budget option is hiring a motorcycle from P California Inter Hostel (%081 808 3347; www.pcalifornianangrong.webs.com; Th Sangkakrit; dm 150B, r 250-650B; naW) in Nang Rong. You can also go by motorcycle-taxi (600B return) or car and driver (1000B) from Nang Rong. It costs 100B/200B for the motorcycle/car to add Muang Tam.
Otherwise, catch a bus from Nang Rong, Surin or Nakhon Ratchasima to the busy Ban Tako (20B to 30B, 20 minutes, every 30 minutes) junction 14km east of town, where motorcycle taxis usually charge 300B to Phanom Rung, including waiting time.
Surin สุรินทร์
%044 / Population 40,100
Surin city doesn’t have much to say for itself until November, when the provincial capital explodes into life for the Surin Elephant Round-up, during which it hosts giant scrums of both pachyderms and tourists. It does, however, make the most comfortable base for exploring the sites further afield.
1Sights & Activities
oChansomaART STUDIO
(จันทร์โสมา; %081 726 0397; h8am-5pm) F
You may find the village of Ban Tha Sawang, 8km west of Surin along Rte 4026, a fascinating stop, even if you’re not particularly turned on by weaving. Chansoma, a family-run business in a cooling garden, has made it one of the most renowned silk villages in Thailand. Its exquisite brocade fabrics (pâh yók torng) incorporate threads made of real gold and silver, but the weaving process is just as impressive as the finished cloth.
Surin Elephant Round-upCULTURAL
(hNov)
Surin celebrates its famous and controversial festival for 11 days in mid-November with the main attraction being a 300-elephant battle reenactment. Elephant ‘shows’ of all kinds are contentious because the elephants are forced to undergo torturous training to become tamed enough, which is worth considering if you are thinking of attending.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBaan Chang TonHOMESTAY$
(%087 459 8962; www.baanchangton.com; Th Suriyarart; r incl breakfast 400-500B; aiW)
The friendly owners here have rescued an old wooden house and created one of Isan’s most charming places to stay. It’s quite simple (shared bathrooms, mattresses on the floor and air-con in only one room) but the atmosphere makes it special. Guests can use the kitchen or, if arranged in advance, join the family for dinner. There are also free bikes to use.
Maneerote HotelHOTEL$
(%044 539477; www.maneerotehotel.com; Soi Poi Tunggor, Th Krungsri Nai; r 450-500B; aiW)
This quiet hotel southwest of the fresh market is hands-down the best-value place in town. Rooms are clean and modern and there’s an attached restaurant and coffee shop.
oSom Tam Petmanee 2THAI$
(Th Murasart; mains 30-100B; h8am-4pm)
AKA Som Tom Mae Pet, this simple Isan restaurant by Wat Salaloi (there’s no roman-script sign, but look for the large chicken grill) is Surin’s most famous purveyor of sôm·đam (spicy green-papaya salad) and gài yâhng (grilled chicken). The súþ nòr mái (bamboo-shoot dipping sauce) is good, too. There’s little English, spoken or written, but the food is so good it’s worth stumbling through an order.
Surin Green MarketTHAI
(Th Jitrbumrung; h5am-noon Sat-Sun)
Foodies in town on a weekend should make this popular market their breakfast destination. Although there’s a variety of food available, Isan dishes are the most common. This is one place to sample the local speciality, gòp yát sâi (herb-stuffed frog). Silk fabric and other handicrafts are sold here too.
GETTING TO CAMBODIA: CHONG CHOM TO O SMACH
Getting to the border Because of the casino, there are plenty of public minibuses (45B, 1½ hours, frequent from 5.30am to 6.30pm) from Surin’s bus terminal to the border at Chong Chom.
At the border The Cambodian border is open from 7am to 10pm and visas are available on the spot. There’s a 5B fee at Thai immigration on weekends and early mornings/late afternoons.
Moving on There are two buses from O Smach to the City Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap (350B, three hours, 8am and 5pm). Chartering a ‘taxi’ (drivers wait at the border looking for passengers) for the drive to Siem Reap should cost 2000B or less, and you can wait for others to share the costs, though this is generally only possible in the morning.
8Getting There & Away
In addition to buses to distant destinations, there are also sŏrng·tăa·ou and minivans to local destinations such as Chong Chom (for the Cambodian border; 45B, 1½ hours, frequent from 5.30am to 6.30pm) departing from Surin’s bus terminal (%044 511756; Th Jitrbumrung).
BUSES FROM SURIN
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok | 275-353 | 7-8 | hourly 7.30am-11pm |
| Khon Kaen | 160-205 | 5 | every 45min 3.30am-3pm |
| Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) | 115-218 | 4 | every 30min 3.30am-8pm |
| Nang Rong | 80-100 | 2 | every 30min 3.30am-8pm |
| Roi Et | 90 | 2½ | hourly 5am-5pm |
| Ubon Ratchathani | 130-202 | 3½ | 12 departures 3.20am-10.30pm |
Ubon Ratchathani อุบลราชธานี
%045 / Population 86,800
Ubon Ratchathani, the ‘Royal City of the Lotus’, is a medium-sized city with a small town feel. It was a site of a US air base during the Vietnam War; most travellers who come here are on their way to and from the nearby Thai–Lao border crossing at Chong Mek.
1Sights & Festivals
oWat Thung Si MeuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดทุ่งศรีเมือง; Th Luang; hdaylight hours) F
Built during the reign of Rama III (1824–51), Wat Thung Si Meuang has a classic hŏr đrai (Tripitaka hall) in excellent shape. Like many hŏr đrai, it rests on stilts in the middle of a pond to protect the precious scriptures (written on palm-leaf paper) from termites. It’s kept open so you can look inside. The original murals in the little bòht (ordination hall) beside the hŏr đrai show life in that era and are in remarkably good condition.
Candle ParadeCULTURAL
(Kabuan Hae Tian; husually Jul)
Ubon’s famous Candle Parade began during the reign of King Rama V, when the appointed governor decided the rocket festival was too dangerous. The original simple designs have since grown (with the help of internal frames) to gigantic, elaborately carved wax sculptures. The parade is part of Khao Phansaa (the start of Buddhist Lent).
4Sleeping & Eating
Phadaeng HotelHOTEL$
(%045 254600; thephadaen@gmail.com; Th Phadaeng; r 500B; aiW)
One of the best-value hotels in Ubon, the Phadaeng has well-maintained rooms (they look almost brand new) with good furnishings including large TVs and desks. It’s located just minutes from Thung Si Meuang park, and the large parking area separates it from street noise. The hotel is livened up with copies of classic paintings. Bike hire costs 50B per day.
oOutside InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(%088 581 2069; www.theoutsideinnubon.com; 11 Th Suriyat; r incl breakfast 650-799B; naiW)
A nice little garden lounge area sets the relaxed, communal vibe here. The rooms are large, comfy and fitted with tastefully designed reclaimed-timber furnishings. Owners Brent and Tun are great hosts, cook some good food (mains 50-225B; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon; Wv), and have lots of advice on what to see and do in the area.
oRung RojTHAI$
(Th Nakhonban; mains 50-290B; h9.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
An Ubon institution serving excellent food using family recipes and only fresh ingredients. Many people swear by the ox-tongue stew. From the outside it looks more like a well-to-do house than a restaurant, and inside it has 1950s and ’60s classic rock ‘n’ roll music and decor to match.
PeppersINTERNATIONAL, BAKERY$$
(297/2-3 Uppalisan Rd; mains 80-495B; h8am-9pm; W)
Peppers, popular with both fa·ràng and Thai, features a broad international menu with everything from nachos to schnitzel to pizza to đôm yam gûng and all-day breakfast. The bakery offerings, its real speciality, are downright delicious. There are also wines and international beers.
GETTING TO LAOS: UBON RATCHATHANI TO PAKSE
The busy Chong Mek/Vangtao crossing connects Ubon Ratchathani to Pakse in Laos.
Getting to the border Direct Ubon Ratchathani–Pakse buses (200B, three hours, 9.30am and 2.30pm) stop at the border so travellers can buy Lao visas.
At the border The border is open from 6am to 8pm and the crossing is largely hassle free, although surcharges to the visa fee are sometimes applied.
Moving on Pakse is about an hour away in one of the frequent minivans (20,000K, 45 minutes) or sŏrng·tăa·ou that wait beyond the Lao immigration office.
8Information
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %045 243770; tatubon@tat.or.th; 264/1 Th Kheuan Thani; h8.30am-4.30pm) Has helpful staff and a free city map.
Ubonrak Thonburi Hospital (%045 429100; Th Phalorangrit) The best private hospital in Ubon; it has a 24-hour casualty department.
8Getting There & Around
Air Asia (%045 255762, nationwide 02 515 9999; www.airasia.com; Ubon Ratchathani Airport; h7am-7pm), Nok Air (%nationwide 02 900 9955; www.nokair.com; Ubon Ratchathani Airport; h7am-7pm) and Thai Lion Air (%nationwide 02 529 9999; www.lionairthai.com; Ubon Ratchathani Airport; h6am-7pm) fly to/from Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport (one hour) a dozen times daily with prices well under 1000B usually available. THAI Smile (%087 776 2266, nationwide 1181; www.thaismileair.com; Ubon Ratchathani Airport; h7am-7.30pm) has four flights to/from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (one hour) for a little bit more. Air Asia also has one daily flight each to Pattaya and Chiang Mai.
Ubon’s bus terminal (%045 316085; Hwy 231) is north of town; take sŏrng·tăa·ou 2, 3 or 10 to the city centre. The best service to Bangkok is with Nakhonchai Air (%045 955999).
Ubon’s train station (%045 321004; Th Sathani) is in Warin Chamrap; take sŏrng·tăa·ou 2. There are 10 daily trains between Ubon and Bangkok.
BUSES FROM UBON RATCHATHANI
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok | 414-556 | 10 | hourly 4am-midnight, frequent 4-8pm |
| Chiang Mai | 707-790 | 12-14 | 7.30am, 12.45pm, 1.45pm, 2.45pm, 3.45pm, 5.45pm, 6.30pm |
| Chong Mek (Lao border) | 100 | 2 | every 30min 5am-6pm |
| Khon Kaen | 176-244 | 4½-5 | every 30min 5.30am-5.40pm |
| Mukdahan | 130 | 2½ | 5.45am, 7.30am, 8.40am, 11.30am, 1pm |
| Mukdahan (minivan) | 111 | 2½ | every 30min 6am-5.30pm |
| Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) | 248-386 | 7-8 | hourly 5am-8pm |
| Nang Rong | 144-265 | 5-6 | hourly 5am-8pm |
| Pakse (Laos) | 200 | 3 | 9.30am & 2.30pm |
| Rayong | 515-801 | 13 | 7am, 7.15am, 5pm, 6pm, 7.30pm, 7.45pm, 8pm, 8.15pm |
| Surin | 130-202 | 3½ | hourly 5am-8pm |
| Udon Thani | 284-332 | 7 | every 30min 5.30am-5.40pm |
| Yasothon | 66-99 | 2 | hourly 5.30am-5.30pm |
| Yasothon (minivan) | 80 | 2 | hourly 5.30am-5.30pm |
Mukdahan มุกดาหาร
%042 / Population 34,294
On the banks of the Mekong, directly opposite the Lao city of Savannakhet, Mukdahan – just plain múk to locals – sees few visitors despite being the home of the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge 2, which connects Thailand to Laos and Vietnam by road.
Huanum HotelHOTEL$
(%042 611137; Th Samut Sakdarak; d/tw with fan & cold-water shared bathroom 200/350B, d/tw 350/450B; aW)
This Mukdahan classic is a friendly, reliable and clean old-timer that has been pleasantly spruced up recently. It’s the first choice of most backpackers.
Mukdahan Night MarketTHAI, VIETNAMESE$
(Th Song Nang Sathit; h4-9pm)
Mukdahan’s night market has all the Thai and Isan classics, but it’s the Vietnamese vendors that set it apart. A few sell băhn dah (they’ll tell you it’s ‘Vietnamese pizza’), which combines soft noodles, pork, spring onions and an optional egg served on a crispy cracker.
8Getting There & Away
Mukdahan’s bus terminal is on Rte 212, west of town. There are frequent evening departures to Bangkok (439B to 717B, 10 to 11 hours), as well as many minivans to Nakhon Phanom (80B, 2½ hours), Ubon Ratchathani (100B to 135B, 2½ hours) and That Phanom (40B, one hour).
GETTING TO LAOS: MUKDAHAN TO SAVANNAKHET
Getting to the border Thai and Lao citizens can use the boats that cross the Mekong from Mukdahan’s city centre, while everyone else must use the bridge. The easiest way to cross is with the direct buses to Savannakhet (45B to 50B, hourly 7.30am to 7pm) from Mukdahan’s bus station. There’s a 5B fee during weekend, holidays and non-business hours.
At the border The border is open from 6am to 10pm. The crossing to Savannakhet can take from one to two hours, depending on the length of the immigration queues. There’s time enough at the border to get a Lao visa.
Moving on From Savannakhet there are buses to various points in Laos, as well as Vietnam.
For information on making this crossing in reverse see here.
Nakhon Phanom นครพนม
%042 / Population 22,710
Nakhon Phanom means ‘City of Mountains’, but the undulating sugar loaf peaks all lie across the river in Laos, so you’ll be admiring rather than climbing them. There are unexpected French colonial buildings here too, while Ho Chi Minh, who led Vietnam to independence, spent time near here in the late 1920s. Travellers can cross to Laos from here.
Lai Reua FaiCULTURAL
(hlate Oct/early Nov)
Nakhon Phanom is famous for this illuminated boat procession. A modern twist on the ancient tradition of sending rafts loaded with food, flowers and candles down the Mekong as offerings for the naga, today’s giant bamboo rafts hold up to 20,000 handmade lanterns, and some designers add animation to the scenes.
Ho Chi Minh HouseMUSEUM
(บ้านโฮจิมินห์; %042 522430; Ban Na Chok; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours) F
The best of the three Ho Chi Minh–related attractions in Ban Na Chok village, this is a replica of the simple wooden house where ‘Uncle Ho’ sometimes stayed in 1928 and 1929 while planning his resistance movement in Vietnam. A few of the furnishings are believed to be originals. It’s a private affair in the back of a family home and they’re very proud of it.
WORTH A TRIP
WAT PHRA THAT PHANOM
Towering over the small, peaceful town of That Phanom (ธาตุพนม), the spire of the colossal namesake chedi at Wat Phra That Phanom is one of the great pillars of Isan identity. Visitors from all over Thailand and Laos descend on the town during the That Phanom Festival (hlate Jan/early Feb) to make merit. There are frequent buses and minivans to That Phanom from nearby Nakhon Phanom, as well as destinations across Isan and Bangkok.
Wat Phra That Phanom (วัดพระธาตุพนม; Th Chayangkun; h5am-9pm) is a potent and beautiful place – even if you’re feeling templed out, you’ll likely be impressed. At its hub is a stupa (tâht), more imposing than any in present-day Laos and highly revered by Buddhists from both countries. It’s 53.6m high, and a 16kg real-gold umbrella laden with precious gems adds 4m more to the top. A visit in the evening is extra-special.
8Getting There & Away
Nahon Phanom’s airport is located 20km west of town. Nok Air (%082 790 7961, nationwide 02 900 9955; www.nokair.com; Nakhon Phanom Airport; h8am-8pm) and Air Asia (%042 531571, nationwide 02 515 9999; www.airasia.com; Nakhon Phanom Airport; h8am-5pm) fly several times daily to/from Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport with one-way prices typically costing 1100B.
Nakhon Phanom’s bus terminal (%042 513444; Th Fuang Nakhon) is west of the town centre. There are buses to Nong Khai (200B, seven to eight hours, 11am), Udon Thani (147B to 200B, four hours, every 45 minutes from 7.15am to 5pm), Khon Kaen (212B, five hours, 13 departures from 5.50am to 9.30pm), Ubon Ratchathani (155B to 200B, 4½ hours, 7am, 8.30am and 2pm) and Bangkok (554B to 862B, 11 to 12 hours, three daily).
GETTING TO LAOS: NAKHON PHANOM TO THA KHAEK
Getting to the border Direct buses run to Tha Khaek in Laos from Nakhon Phanom’s bus station (70B/75B weekdays/weekends, eight departures from 8am to 5pm).
At the border The Thai border is open from 6am to 10pm. Lao visas are available at the border.
Moving on Savannakhet is a two-hour bus ride from Tha Khaek.
For information on making this crossing in reverse see here
Nong Khai หนองคาย
%042 / Population 47,600
Sitting on the banks of the Mekong, just across from Vientiane in Laos, Nong Khai has been a popular destination for years, thanks to its proximity to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. But with its dreamy pink sunsets and relaxed traveller vibe, many visitors who mean to stay one night end up bedding down for many more.
Nong Khai’s rocket festival (bun bâng fai) begins on Visakha Bucha day in late May to early June.
1Sights
oSala Kaew KuSCULPTURE
(ศาลาแก้วกู่, Wat Khaek; 20B; h7am-6pm)
One of Thailand’s most enigmatic attractions, Sala Kaew Ku can’t fail to impress. Built over 20 years by Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, a mystic who died in 1996, the park features a weird and wonderful smorgasbord of bizarre cement statues of Buddha, Shiva, Vishnu and other celestial deities. The main shrine building is packed with hundreds of smaller sculptures of various description and provenance, photos of Luang Pu at various stages throughout his life, and his corpse lying under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights.
Tha Sadet MarketMARKET
(ตลาดท่าเสด็จ; Th Rimkhong; h8.30am-6pm)
The most popular destination in town. Almost everyone loves a stroll through this covered market despite it being a giant tourist trap. It offers the usual mix of clothes, electronic equipment, food and assorted bric-a-brac, most of it imported from Laos and China, but there are also a few shops selling quirky and quality stuff.
4Sleeping & Eating
oMut Mee Garden GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%042 460717; www.mutmee.com; Soi Mutmee; r 200-1650B; naW)
Nong Khai’s budget classic has a riverfront garden so relaxing it’s intoxicating, and most nights it’s packed with travellers. Mut Mee caters to many budgets, with a huge variety of rooms (the cheapest with shared bathroom, the most expensive with an awesome balcony) clustered around a thatched-roof lounge, where owner Julian freely shares his wealth of knowledge about the area.
E-San GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%086 242 1860; 538 Soi Srikhunmuang; r with fan & shared bathroom 250B, with air-con 450B; aW)
Just off the river in a small, beautifully restored wooden house ringed by a long verandah, this is an atmospheric place for backpackers to stay. The air-con rooms in a new building are fine, though they lack the character of the original house. Bikes are free. There are two other wooden guesthouses on the same street.
Khiangkhong GuesthouseHOTEL$
(%042 422870; Th Rimkhong; r with fan/air-con 400/500B; aW)
Catch a refreshing breeze and snag some river views from the 3rd-floor terrace (and some of the rooms) at this family-run concrete tower that falls between guesthouse and hotel. Bicycles are free.
Daeng NamnuangVIETNAMESE$
(Th Rimkhong; mains 50-250B; h8am-8pm; W)
This massive river restaurant has grown into an Isan institution, and hordes of out-of-towners head home with car boots and carry-on bags (there’s an outlet at Udon Thani’s airport) stuffed with their năam neu·ang (DIY pork spring rolls).
Hospital Food CourtTHAI$
(Th Meechai; mains 40-80B; h6am-3pm)
Don’t be put off by the name – it isn’t ‘hospital food’. Located across from the hospital, this food court whips up Thai standards at low prices. The food is delicious, there’s plenty of choice and it’s conveniently located near the most popular guesthouses in town.
oDee Dee PohchanahTHAI$$
(1155/9 Th Prajak; mains 60-425B; h11am-2am; W)
How good is Dee Dee? Just look at the dinner-time crowds. But don’t be put off by them: despite having a full house every night, this open-air place is a well-oiled machine and you won’t be waiting long.
7Shopping
Nong Khai Walking Street MarketMARKET
(h4pm-10pm Sat)
This weekly street festival featuring music, handmade items and food takes over the promenade every Saturday night. It’s smaller, but far more pleasant than the similar Walking Street markets in Chiang Mai.
Village Weaver HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(%042 422651; 1020 Th Prajak; h8.30am-6pm)
This place sells high-quality, handwoven fabrics and clothing (ready-made or made to order) that help fund development projects around Nong Khai. The mát·mèe cotton is particularly good here.
8Information
Nongkhai Hospital (%042 413456; Th Meechai; h24hr) Has a 24-hour casualty department.
GETTING TO LAOS: NONG KHAI TO VIENTIANE
Getting to the border If you already have your Lao visa, the easiest way to Vientiane is the direct bus from Nong Khai’s bus terminal (55B, 1½ hours, six daily from 7.30am to 6pm). If you’re getting your visa at the border, take a túk-túk from the town centre (60B) to the bridge. Don’t use a visa agency.
At the border After getting stamped out of Thailand, take the waiting buses (15B to 20B) across the bridge. Lao visas are available on arrival. Bring a passport photo.
Moving on It’s about 20km to Vientiane. Plenty of buses, túk-túk and taxis will be waiting for you.
8Getting There & Away
Nong Khai bus terminal (%042 421246) is located just off Th Prajak, about 1.5km from the main pack of riverside guesthouses. Nong Khai train station (%042 411637, nationwide 1690; www.railway.co.th), 2km west of the city centre, has three evening express trains to Bangkok (seats from 223B to 607B, sleeper upper/lower 1157B/1357B, 11½ hours).
BUSES FROM NONG KHAI
| DESTINATION | FARE (B) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bangkok | 329-658 | 10-11 | frequent in late afternoon & early evening, hourly during the day |
| Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi International Airport) | 428 | 9-10 | 8pm |
| Nakhon Phanom | 200 | 7-8 | 11am |
| Udon Thani (minivan) | 50 | 1 | frequent 5.30am-7pm |