Timor-Leste
Dili
Ataúro
Eastern Timor-Leste
Baucau
Loi Hunu & Mundo Perdido
Mt Matebian & Around
Tutuala & Jaco Island
Western Timor-Leste
Liquiçá
Maubisse
Hatubuilico & Mt Ramelau
Oecusse
Understand Timor-Leste
Survival Guide
Timor-Leste
%670 / Pop 1,167,242
Why Go?
With hardly-touched ‘best-in-the-world’ reefs to dive, dugongs to spot, mountains to climb, and ancient traditions that have survived the ravages of war, Asia’s newest country offers some of the world’s last great off-the-beaten-track adventures.
Get an insight into Timor-Leste’s dark history in Dili’s museums, then venture out of the capital. Hike to jungle caves, wander through misty mountain village markets, and sip local coffee on the terrace of grand Portuguese pousadas. Bump along diabolical roads, stopping for photos of the seascapes as you grip the cliffs along the coast.
Strap on a snorkel and marvel at the pristine reefs that fringe the north coast and Ataúro, or delve deeper with dive companies that are proud to show off sites with superlative reef fish biodiversity. Trailblaze your way through this amazing country, and find out what everyone else has been missing.
When to Go
- May–Nov (Dry season) There’s little rainfall and lots of sun, though it can get very dusty.
- Sep–Dec It’s whale-watching season as pods migrate through the Wetar Strait.
- Dec–Apr (Wet season) Heavy rain makes the landscape lush but many district roads impassable.
Best for Culture
Top Tetun Phrases
Hello Bondia
Thank you Obrigadu/a (m/f)
Do you speak English? Ita koalia Inglés?
Entering the Country
You can fly to Dili from Denpasar (Bali), Jakarta, Darwin and Singapore. There are flights from Kupang to Dili three times a week (Monday, Wednesday & Friday). A taxi into Dili from Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport is US$10.
Land border arrivals from Indonesia require a visa in advance; those flying in can get a visa on arrival. The land border at Batugade is about five hours by local bus (US$5) from Dili.
REGIONS AT A GLANCE
Central Timor-Leste features coffee groves in rainforest, picturesque hilltop villages as well as waterfalls and mountains. The East is best known for the beaches of Baucau and Jaco and the seascapes along the road to both. The West has the border with Indonesia, the up-and-coming resort towns of Liquica, historic Balibó and hot springs. North of Dili is the island of Ataúro, best known for its great reefs and abundance of accommodation.
Essential Food & Drink
Locally grown coffee Served in Dili’s on-trend cafes
Coconut water Fresh coconut juice
Tropical fruits From roadside stalls
Burgers and fries Not what you were expecting, but an essential from the bars lining Dili’s foreshore
International food Dili offers an abundance of multi-cultural restaurants
Paun (bread) A breakfast staple in the districts
Things on a stick Fish or chicken, from roadside stalls
Top Tips
ABring your own sunscreen and insect repellent.
AExpect long and often frustrating delays using public transport. Locals use buses to transport livestock and produce as well as themselves.
ATake care driving; many roads are in serious states of disrepair. Pigs and kids cross major roads at random times.
AMost small towns have informal budget homestay accommodation at around $US10 per night – ask around.
ABring your own snorkelling equipment.
AWomen moving around Dili alone should be on alert; there are frequent reports of harassment occurring day and night.
ATake metered blue taxis rather than unmetered yellow taxis.
APaying a local to guide you up a mountain, to a waterfall or rock art spreads the tourist dollar and stops you inadvertently crossing onto sacred land.
AT A GLANCE
Currency US dollars (US$). Anything under US$2 can be paid in centavos (cv).
Visas Australian, Irish and British visitors must pay for a visa on arrival at Dili’s airport or seaport; US$30 for 30 days. Most other EU nationals are free.
Money There are few ATMs outside Dili.
Language Portuguese and Tetun (official languages), local dialects. Use of English and Indonesian is decreasing.
Exchange Rates
| Australia | A$1 | US$0.80 |
| Euro | €1 | US$1.18 |
| Indonesia | 10,000 Rp | US$0.74 |
| Singapore | S$1 | US$0.74 |
| UK | UK£1 | US$1.30 |
For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com
Daily Costs
Dorm bed US$14 to US$20
Local restaurant meal US$3
Short taxi trip US$2
Bus trip to the districts US$6
Resources
Official tourism website www.timorleste.tl
Guide Post Timor www.guideposttimor.com
Agora Food Studio www.timorlestefoodlab.com
Timor-Leste Highlights
1 Ataúro Checking out the world’s best reefs on this island a short trip from Dili.
2 Mt Ramelau Climbing to the peak of Timor-Leste’s highest mountain at dawn to watch the sun rise over the clouds.
3 Jaco Island Enjoying a day lazing about on the powder-white sands, with dazzling snorkelling just offshore.
4 Balibó Making the pilgrimage to the place where five Australian-based journalists were killed in 1975, and staying in the Balibó Fort Hotel opposite.
5 Maubisse Enjoying the accommodation and food of this misty mountain town.
6 Loi Hunu Relaxing in a riverside bungalow, climbing to see former guerilla hideouts and trekking up Mundo Perdido
Dili
POP 252,884
Dili is a city by the sea, locked in by hills that lead to the districts beyond. The island of Ataúro glimmers to its north, on the other side of one of the deepest channels in Asia. Dili itself spreads from the airport, along the waterfront and all the way to the Cristo Rei statue in the east. The city’s foreshore is popular with runners and walkers in the morning and evening, when the weather is cooler. Most of the action occurs here on the waterfront, and one or two blocks south of it, though sadly the western section has recently been populated by oversized embassies.
Dili is a great place to recharge batteries (literally) between jaunts into the districts. Pick accommodation with a pool and its own restaurant for the ideal escape from the dust and noise that can overload the senses. Travellers tend to hang out in the bars along Av de Portugal (also known as Beach Rd) and at Areia Branca, near the Cristo Rei statue. Timor Plaza, close-ish to the airport, is a surprisingly good spot for food, bars and air-con. Dili’s biggest jewel? World-class dive sites are just minutes from town.
Dili
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
8Information
8Transport
1Sights
oChega! ExhibitionMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Centro Nacional Chega; %33 1003; www.cavr-timorleste.org; Estrada de Balide; 
h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
F
Set in the buildings and cells of a Portuguese-era prison where resistance figures were interned by the Indonesian military, Chega! (chega means ‘stop’ or ‘no more’ in Portuguese) houses the results of the Commission for Reception, Truth and Reconciliation (CAVR) process – documenting human rights abuses from 1974 to 1999. It’s hard to find and navigate; best to head here with Dili History Tours.
oResistance MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Resistência Timorense; %7713 1903; www.amrtimor.org; Rua de Cidade de Lisboa; admission US$1; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sat)
An excellent museum, established in 2005, which commemorates Timor-Leste’s 24-year struggle against the Indonesian occupation. Falintil’s resistance is brought to life with a timeline, photos, video recordings and exhibits of the weapons and tools of communication that the East Timorese used in their fight for independence. You can watch harrowing footage of the Santa Cruz Massacre here before heading to Santa Cruz Cemetery.
Motael ChurchCHURCH
(MAP; The Church de São António de Motael; Av Salazar)
This church, the oldest Catholic church in Timor-Leste, was one of the most important places in the story of the fight for Timorese independence. Sebastião Gomes was shot dead here in 1991 by the Indonesian military; his funeral parade to Santa Cruz Cemetery attracted thousands, and resulted in the Santa Cruz Massacre.
Santa Cruz Massacre Memorial MonumentMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Salazar)
It lacks an inscription or an official name, but the monument’s location opposite Motael Church offers a clue: independence supporter Sebastião Gomes was shot by Indonesian forces near here on 28 October 1991. Built to remember those who lost their lives in the resulting Santa Cruz Massacre, it shows survivors Agustinho, now living in Portugal, and Amali, who remains in Timor-Leste.
Cristo ReiSTATUE
(Jesus Statue; Av de Areia Branca)
The hard-to-miss Cristo Rei, 7km east of town, has 570 steps leading to the statue of Jesus, a gift from the Indonesian government in 1996. It’s a popular morning and evening exercise spot, with mountain and water views. Catch blue mikrolet number 12 or a taxi (US$7) to get here (ask the taxi driver to wait).
Santa Cruz CemeteryCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rua de Santa Cruz)
On 12 November 1991 Indonesian soldiers fired on a peaceful memorial procession for Sebastião Gomes from Motael Church to Santa Cruz Cemetery. More than 250 civilians (mostly students) died. British journalist Max Stahl filmed the bloody attack and the smuggled footage was beamed around the world, empowering the nation’s independence struggle.
Dili WaterfrontAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) Watch kids kicking soccer balls around on the patches of sandy beach, and runners sweating it out while you’re strolling the decent walking path that runs along the waterfront. The grand Palácio do Governo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rua 30 de Agosta) (Government House) is a highlight, as is Farol Lighthouse (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av de Portugal) to the west. Further west, oversized embassies take up space next to small expat-owned bars.
Dare Memorial MuseumMEMORIAL
(%726 6517; https://darememorialmuseum.com; Rua Fatunaba, Dare; h10am-4pm Sat & Sun)F
There are two great things about Dare (pronounced da-ray) Memorial Museum, but you’ll have to ask for them. First, ask for a cup of Timorese coffee, then to watch the excellent video documenting Timor-Leste’s involvement in WWII including the Timorese who helped Australian troops before being left to face the repercussions from the Japanese once the Australians departed.
ITINERARIES
One Week
From Dili, lunch in Baucau before continuing to Loi Hunu to stay at Hotel Comunitaria Wailakurini and climb past the Guerilla Hideout. Wake early and head through Ossu to hike Mundo Perdido (Lost World) with a guide. Next up, check out the cave art on the way down to sacred Jaco Island. Stay in a simple hut on the mainland for two nights, spending a day on Jaco, snorkelling. Return to Dili, via a night in Baucau to explore museums and markets, before heading out to Ataúro for a couple of nights. Cap off your adventure with a dawn climb of Mt Ramelau.
One Month
Complete the one-week itinerary, then return to Dili for some diving before heading west to Liquiçá for luxury beachside camping at Caimeo Beach or beach games at Lauhata Beach Escape. Continue towards the Indonesian border, stopping at Maubara Fort for souvenirs. Be reminded of the tragic story of the Balibó Five in Balibó, and overnight at the terrific Balibó Fort Hotel, before heading south past Maliana to soak in the hot springs (be manis) at Marobo. Finally, fly from Dili to Oecusse for a night to witness the rapid development of this once sleepy town (and maybe spot a dugong, too).
2Activities & Tours
Get to know Timor-Leste’s fascinating history by checking out Dili’s museums and cultural centres. An organised tour will help you get bearings to start. The diving is great in town, too; choose a dive company and get under the water to check out incredible coral and fish biodiversity just offshore – or head a little further afield to legendary dive site K41. Adventurous cyclists come to Timor-Leste to test out their skills in the dry, harsh conditions promised by Tour de Timor.
Compass ChartersDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7723 0964, 7723 0965; www.compassadventuretours.com; Av dos Mártires de Pátria; snorkelling US$140, two-dive day trip US$210, two-night trip to Ataúro US$500)
Specialises in multi-day trips to Ataúro’s spectacular north coast sites (eg two nights at its tented Adara or Beloi Beach ecocamps), as well as two-dive day trips to Ataúro, plus local and coast dives, a water-taxi service to Ataúro and snorkelling day trips. Located next to Tiger Fuel.
Aquatica Dive ResortDIVING
(%7700 5121, 7803 8885; www.aquaticadiveresort.com; Aldeia Metin, Bebonuk, Comoro; local dives US$60, two-dive coast trip US$120, Ataúro US$170)
Aussies Desmond and Jennifer are the go-to people for heading out on a local dive to find Dili’s dugong, Douglas. They also offer other local dives, two-dive coast trips and visits to Ataúro. It’s east of the Comoro River and a bit out of town; there is also accommodation here.
Dive Timor LorosaeDIVING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7723 7092; www.divetimor.com; Av de Portugal; shore dive US$45, day trip US$110, two-dive trip US$165, whale-watching US$85; h7.30am-7.30pm) 
S
This dive centre has been operating since 2000, offering shore dives, two-dive day trips to sites along the north coast (including legendary K41) and two-dive trips to sites around Ataúro. Also has its own training pool and backpackers. Runs beach clean-up days and offers whale watching from September to November.
oEco DiscoveryTOURS
(%7726 9829, 332 2454; www.ecodiscovery-easttimor.com; Landmark Plaza, Av Nicolau Lobato; 4WD and guide/driver US$235 per day, all inclusive; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) S
It’s not cheap to tour Timor-Leste, but hiring a 4WD and guide (split the cost with others if possible) and planning your big rural adventure can be worth the expense. Eco Discovery’s English-speaking guides are often matched to their home territory, and are fonts of information and assistance. Highly recommended.
oDili History ToursTOURS
(%7824 5891, 7797 6473; www.jdntimorleste.weebly.com; Rua Metiaut; US$21; hTours begin at 9am or 2pm)
Run by Timorese students in the Juventude ba Dezenvolvimentu Násional (JDN), these tours cover the story of Timor-Leste’s independence, travelling around by mikrolet. An excellent way to see and understand the city’s history.
DUGONGS OF TIMOR-LESTE
Each day at Tasi Tolu, just west of Dili’s airport, Douglas the dugong has his (or her; there are rumours) lunch in the sea grass. Sightings of Douglas (and other dugongs) are never guaranteed, but these huge placid beasts are often spotted by divers and snorkellers at various sites along the coast east of Dili. Local dive operators can show you where to point your GoPro.
zFestivals & Events
Darwin Dili Yacht RallySAILING
(www.sailtimorleste.org; AUD$250 per yacht; hJul)
Yachts and their crew make their way from Darwin in Australia to Dili and Oecussi in this popular annual event. See the Sail Timor-Leste website for entry details and general information about sailing to Timor-Leste.
Dili City of Peace MarathonSPORTS
(hAug)
Running is huge in Dili, and it’s celebrated annually with a marathon and half marathon. In 2017 the full marathon (42km) saw a winning time of 2:26, with almost half the field of 50 not finishing (it’s tough!). The half marathon (21km) is more popular.
Tour de TimorCYCLING
(www.tourdetimor.com; registration US$1000; hSep)
Adventure cyclists from around the world bring their own bikes to test them on the tough and challenging conditions of Timor-Leste’s roads in this five-day, 500km cycling adventure. It began in 2009 as part of the ‘City of Peace’ initiative, and the months before the (usually) annual event see expats and locals zooming around Dili in Lycra as dawn breaks.
4Sleeping
A host of new backpacker options have opened Dili up to visa-renewers flying in from Bali. Hotels have been bringing their prices down, so it’s always worth trying to negotiate a better rate. Life in Dili is better with a pool, but unfortunately only a few places to stay have one.
oDive Timor Lorosae BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7723 7092; www.divetimor.com; Av de Portugal; dm US$20, r US$40-100; 
a
W
s) S
Offering air-con, free wi-fi and pool access, plus sunrise and sunset views across the road, you’d be hard-pressed to find better budget accom in Dili. If you can splash out, opt for one of the stylish apartments set around the pool, which are good value if shared. You can grab a pre-dive feed at Castaway Bar upstairs.
Hostel daTerraHOSTEL$
(MAP; %7784 5678, 7730 6030; Rua do Colégio Militar; dm US$14, s/d US$22/35, incl breakfast; aW) S
A popular cafe in a luscious front garden helps Hostel daTerra claim its spot as Dili’s greenest and most ‘backpacker’ place to stay. The rooms (one dorm and one single/double) are bright and share a bathroom. Movie night is on Thursday, and neighbour, Timorese singer Ego Lemos, keeps the vibe musical.
Dili Central BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP; %7355 4433; www.dtceasttimor.com; Rua de Nu Laran 28; dm from US$15 incl breakfast) Bland dorms with fans or air-con ($US5 more). Lockers and breakfast are included, and owner Kym is a font of local knowledge, having lived in Timor-Leste for nearly two decades. The cafe serves great juices and snacks. Dive, Trek & Camp (MAP; %7350 6279; www.dtceasttimor.com; Rua de Nu Laran 28; bike US$10 per day, motorbike US$20 per day, motorbike and rider US$50 per day, mikrolet tour US$95, nightlife/music tour US$135)
runs from here. Bike hire is US$10 per day.
Beachside HotelHOTEL$
(%7750 2184, 7754 9681; www.beachsidehoteldili.com; Areia Branca; dm US$30, d from US$85, incl breakfast; W)
Opposite Areia Branca beach, this is one of Dili’s best beachside accommodation options. Tastefully decorated rooms have kitchenettes; more expensive ones overlook the beach, and there’s also a bunk room. Rates include breakfast and laundry. There’s a great on-site cafe (7.30am to 7pm) serving organic food. Connected to town by blue mikrolet No.12.
EsplanadaHOTEL$
(%331 3088; www.hotelesplanada.com; Av de Portugal; d US$99 incl breakfast; aWs)
This boutique hotel is a favourite spot for repeat visitors to Timor-Leste: its pleasant accommodation blocks surround a palm-tree-shaded pool. The upstairs bar-restaurant serves pricey meals (US$12) to go with its water views, but come during an event, or when there’s live music on a Thursday night, and be swept up in the fun of Dili. Rates can often be negotiated.
Hotel TimorHOTEL$
(MAP; %332 4502; www.timortur.com; Rua Mártires da Pátria; r US$85; aW)
A stay in Hotel Timor, in the heart of Dili, is a dip into colonial times. The foyer shops, including the NGO gift shop Things and Stories, are good, and you can soak up the Portuguese influence while eating your pastel de nata (custard tart) in its colonial-esque cafe. Rooms are a blend of luxurious dark timber and good linen.
5Eating
Most of Dili’s places to eat are concentrated along Av de Portugal (Beach Rd) and along Rua Presidente Nicolau Lobato, with another cluster at Metiaut, about 2km east of the centre towards Cristo Rei. Timor Plaza (www.timorplaza.com; Av Nicolau Lobato, Comoro; h9am-6pm; W) offers a wide range of meals in its food court.
Rolls N BowlsVIETNAMESE$
(MAP; %7796 0909; Grand Diocesse, Av Alves Aldela; mains US$6; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; a)
Sit down in air-con comfort and get your pho fix at this popular Vietnamese restaurant in the heart of Dili’s foreshore precinct. As well as pho, you can enjoy spring rolls and salad bowls. There’s a view of Dili’s container-ship yard from its rooftop lounge (Thursday and Friday from 5pm).
Kaffè U’utCAFE$
(MAP; kaffeuut@gmail.com; Rua Gov. José Celestino da Silva; mains US$3.80-6.90; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; from 9am Sun; a
v)
Hard-to-resist cheesecakes and Brazilian brigadeiro (fudge balls) go down well with the Timorese coffee (US$3) served in this modern cafe with air-con. Lunch-seekers can enjoy burgers, paninis or vegan pasta. Also at Páteo.
Letefoho Specialty Coffee RoasterCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7807 3264; Av de Portugal; drinks $US1.50-4; h7am-7pm)
The super-friendly baristas at Timor-Leste’s first speciality coffee shop transform house-roasted Timorese beans into perfect flat whites, iced lattes, or whichever way you like it. A calm spot to while away the hours.
Lita SupermarketSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av dos Direitos Humanos; h8.30am-8.30pm)
Sells a wide range of groceries; good for grabbing supplies before trips to the districts. There’s a fresh fruit and veg market across the road.
oAgora Food StudioCAFE$
(MAP; %7785 9912; www.timorlestefoodlab.com; Kampung Alor, behind the Mosque; mains US$6-14; h8am-6pm Tue-Sat; av) S
House-made yoghurt breakfast bowls, kombucha (fermented tea) and barista-made coffee set this cafe, upstairs in the LELI English school, apart. Staff transform local staples like fresh ginger, turmeric and sweet potato into tasty meals. Don’t miss the Timorese speciality Foho Roots Salad. Friendly staff welcome you loudly, and the mellow music helps you settle in.
Castaway BarINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7723 5449; Av de Portugal; mains US$6-16; h6.30am-midnight)
Crowds of locals, tourists and expats enjoy Aussie comfort food staples as well as gourmet pizzas and burgers at this popular two-storey place overlooking the waterfront. Check the blackboard for lunch and dinner specials – and giggle at the listed ‘today sorry no haves’ (jalapeños and muffins when we visitied). Bands play Friday night.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Dili’s bar scene is great: there’s usually something happening after dark – ask around or look for posters offering deals like dinner and five beers for US$10. Heineken opened a flash new brewery in Dili in 2016, so it’s likely your Tiger or Bintang has been locally brewed.
SkybarROOFTOP BAR
(%7825 7091; Level 4, Timor Plaza, Av Nicolau Lobato, Comoro; h5pm-late; W)
Cheap Bintang beer and live music draws the expat crowds to this rooftop bar on Friday nights in particular. The views over Dili are excellent.
DiZaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7785 3222; Av Marginal, Metiaut; h10am-midnight Tue-Sun)
Dili’s expat crowd vie for the best seats to watch the sun set over the harbour here – passionfruit mojito in hand – at this beautifully appointed, Balinese-inspired beachside bar. It’s no longer the most popular spot to eat, but the vibe is still good.
Caz BarBAR
(Areia Branca; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun)
Sink back in your chair on the sand at this popular place near the statue of Jesus – the perfect place to recover with a beer or fresh coconut water after running up and down its steps. The menu is good: eggs benedict suits Sunday mornings. Catch blue mikrolet no. 12, or pay around US$7 for a taxi to get there.
7Shopping
Boneca de AtaúroARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP; %7797 6508; www.bonecadeatauro.com; Páteo, Rua D Fernando)
This small outlet sells well-designed, modern and handmade laptop bags, Christmas tree decorations, tea towels and soft toys. The work is done by formerly disadvantaged women on Ataúro – you can see them in action on old Singer sewing machines at the Boneca de Ataúro workshop on the island.
PáteoAREA
(MAP; Rua D Fernando; h8am-9pm)
This new shopping area is home to some of Dili’s best cafes and shops, as well as a Portuguese supermarket with a great, cheap deli and plenty of Portuguese products.
Alola FoundationARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %332 3855; www.alolafoundation.org; Rua Bispo de Medeiros; h8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
Sells tais (woven cloth), sculptures, soaps and other crafts from around the country to support its work with the women and children of Timor-Leste.
8Information
There’s no proper tourist office. Tourism websites www.turismo.gov.tl and www.visiteasttimor.com are unfortunately out of date.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Violent outbreaks can and do occur, often quickly, so stay clear of gathering groups of people and political rallies. There are frequent reports of foreign women being groped and sexually assaulted in broad daylight and in public places; as a result, it’s probably safer to travel around with others. Avoid yellow taxis and the city after dark if travelling alone.
INTERNET ACCESS
Most internet is provided through mobile phones, with companies offering unlimited data for US$1 per day; bring an unlocked phone and buy a local SIM. Wi-fi is rare.
Telemor (%7551 1555; www.telmor.tl; Timor Plaza, Av Nicolau Lobato, Comoro; h8am-8pm)
Telkomsel (%7373 7373; www.telkomcel.tl; Timor Plaza; h9am-7pm; W)
Timor Telecom (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %330 3357; www.timortelecom.tl; Hotel Timor; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; W)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Australian Embassy Clinic (%331 1555; www.timorleste.embassy.gov.au; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) You have to be Australian to see the doctor at this fee-per-service clinic. Its location will be changing in late 2017 – check the embassy’s website for the new location.
Clínica Portuguesa (%7741 8969; www.clinicaportuguesa.com; Timor Plaza, Avenida Luro Mata entrance, Comoro; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) This modern fee-per-service clinic outside Timor Plaza has GPs and dental services.
Hospital Nacional Guido Valadares (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dili National Hospital; %331 1008; Rua Cidade Viana do Castelo, Bidau) A cadre of Western volunteers assists locals at this busy national hospital just east of Estrada de Bidau. It’s best to bring someone to look out for you.
Stamford Medical Clinic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %331 0141, emergencies 7772 1111; Rua D Boa 17, Ventura; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) This spotless Western clinic also opens after hours for emergencies.
MONEY
ANZ (%330 6100; www.anz.com/timorleste; Timor Plaza, Av Nicolau Lobato, Comoro; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) has eight ATMs in Dili, including one at the airport. ATMs dispense US dollars.
Western Union (%332 1586; www.westernunion.com; Sang Tai Hoo Building, Rua de Colmera, Colmera; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) in Colmera and Páteo; transfers funds internationally.
POSTAL SERVICES
Central Post Office (Av Bishop de Medeiros; h9am-noon Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Mon-Fri) The only place you can receive/send mail in Dili (aside from trying your luck at DHL (Timor Air Services, Colmera Plaza, Estrada Balide; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) in Colmera Plaza), opposite the Alola Foundation.
8Getting There & Away
Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport (code: DIL; Rua Nicolau Lobato; W) is situated towards Tasi Tolu, a US$10 taxi journey from the city centre, or a cheaper mikrolet journey (number 11; walk 600m from the airport to the main road).
The Nakroma Ferry Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %331 7264; Av de Portugal; h8am-5pm) is in the large building at the port. Ferries for Oecusse (12 hours, US$8) leave at 4pm Monday and Thursday, departing Oecusse at 2pm Tuesday and Friday. The Laju Laju (MAP; %Dili office 332 2266; Grand Diocesse, Av Alves Aldeia, Dili; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) also does the trip to Oecusse, departing Dili at 2.45pm Tuesday and Friday, and returning from Oecusse at 2.45pm Wednesday and Saturday (US$10).
Ferries headed for Ataúro are the Nakroma (8am Saturday; US$4; returning to Dili at 3pm), Laju Laju (8am Thursday, departing Ataúro for Dili at 3pm) and Dragon Star Shipping (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %332 2266, 7622 2000; dragonstarshippinglda@gmail.com; Grand Diocesse, Av Alves Aldela; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) goes at 8am Monday and Friday to Sunday, departing Ataúro 2.30pm Monday and Friday, 3pm Saturday and Sunday; US$15. Compass Charters (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7723 0965; www.compassadventuretours.com; Av dos Mártires de Pátria) heads to the island daily at 7.30am (adult/child one-way US$45/25), from right of the front of Palácio Do Governo and returns at 9.30am to depart from Barry’s Place.
Dili’s bus ‘terminals’ (more like shabby shelters) are served by taxis and mikrolet (small minibuses). Buses are more frequent in the morning. Tasi Tolu Terminal, west of the airport, is the hub for destinations to the west of the country (Ermera, Maliana and Liquiçá). Buses travelling to the east (Baucau, Lospalos, Viqueque) leave from Becora Bus Terminal (Av de Becora). The Taibessi Bus Terminal, next to the huge Taibessi market, is the stop for transport to Maubisse, Same and Suai.
Timor Tour & Travel (%7723 5093, Kupang office +62 8 12379 4199; Rua Quinze de Outubro 17) runs a daily minibus service to Kupang (US$23, 12 hours) in Indonesian West Timor. Be at the office by 8am to check in, and note that you’ll switch buses at the border. Seats can book out in advance.
8Getting Around
Mikrolet (small minibuses) are like moving stereos: they buzz about loudly on designated routes during daylight hours, stopping frequently over short distances.
Cars are useful for night travel in Dili, though drivers must carry car registration papers and their drivers license at all times. Otherwise, walking, cycling and using taxis should suffice. The addition of the metered Blue Taxi (%7742 7777, 331 1110) to Dili’s streets means you can book ahead and have an element of safety. Avoid the decrepit yellow (unmetered) taxis; if you must take one, negotiate a price before you get in – most trips cost US$2. If you find a good driver, ask for their mobile number and see if they’ll be your regular driver. Streets are usually taxi-free by 9pm.
Both motorbike and scooter riders and passengers are required by law to wear helmets.
Ataúro
This island, some 24km from Dili over a 3km-deep channel, hit the spotlight in 2016 after Conservation International announced that it had the most biodiverse waters in the world. According to their research, Ataúro has the most species of reef fish per site, with globally superlative reef fish biodiversity.
Many of the reefs are accessible from the shore, or you can share the cost of a charter to get a bit further out for around US$10. As well as the diving and snorkelling day trips run here from Dili, Ataúro now has its own dive backpackers, so you can make the most of the relaxed island vibe and get your fill of pretty coral and fish, too.
2Activities
Dili’s dive shops arrange underwater tours of the island’s technicolour coral drop-offs, as does island-based operator Ataúro Dive Resort. Guesthouses and local fishermen can arrange boat transport for snorkelling the outer reef or you can stick to the reefs just offshore.
Hike across the island’s hilly interior to reach a white-sand beach at Adara (three to four hours), where you’ll find some of the best snorkelling on the island, and simple hut or tent accommodation. On the east coast, Barry’s Place and Beloi Beach Hotel (%7558 3421; www.beloibeachhoteltimorleste.com; Beloi; r per person incl meals with/without boat transfers US$160/$80; aWs) S can organise lunch and a fishing boat charter (US$50 one way; two hours) from Beloi. You’ll chug over azure waters past white-sand beaches (including stunning Akrema beach) and caves.
You can also hike to Mt Manucoco (995m, around three hours up from Vila), the island’s highest peak.
SPLURGE
Head to Manukoko-Rek (%7748 7301; Vila de Maumeta; US$16-20; v) for a change-of-eating scenery if you’ve hardly left your accommodation. Situated opposite the Boneca de Ataúro doll workshop, this restaurant offers some of Timor-Leste’s best pizzas. Barry from Barry’s Place can organise a bemo (three-wheeled pick-up truck) for the 6km drive from the ferry dock (US$2).
4Sleeping & Eating
Compass Charters has two tented camps on the island (one at Beloi and one at Adara).
Ataúro Dive ResortBUNGALOW$
(%323 2455, 7738 6166; www.ataurodiveresort.com; Beloi; s/d US$35/50, dorm bed US$18 incl breakfast)
Volker and Saffy run this dive centre and backpackers, which offers comfortable island-style bungalows with shared bathrooms, as well as a simple thatched six-bed dorm. The best diving spots are two minutes away by boat, or you can snorkel and dive out from the beach. Saffy makes a mean bowl of ice cream (US$1).
You can learn to dive from US$450; after this, dives are US$50 each. Night dives are also available.
oBarry’s PlaceBUNGALOW$
(%7723 6084; www.barrysplaceatauro.com; Beloi; r per person incl meals US$35-45) S
Australian owner Barry is almost clocking up two decades in Timor-Leste, and can be credited for some of the sustainable, income-producing development on Ataúro. This spot, once a stark desert-like block, is now a tropical delight. Don’t miss a stay in one of the thatched bungalows, and a swing in your own hammock (each bungalow has one). Book ahead.
Mario’s PlaceBUNGALOW$
(%7795 7272; Adara; r per person incl meals US$25)
Adara, on the west side of Ataúro, is a quiet, palm-tree-fringed area with terrific snorkelling and diving. Mario’s has four basic bungalows with lights, fans and mosquito nets and shared drop toilet. You can hike here from Beloi (three hours), or charter a boat (two hours; US$100 return).
Day-trippers are welcome for lunch (US$5): bring your own snorkel (and pay the US$1.50 reef tax).
7Shopping
Boneca de AtaúroGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(Vila de Maumeta; h9am-5pm)
Calling this a doll shop doesn’t do it justice: here, in a simple building by the beach, marginalised women sew modern, well-designed laptop bags and pencil cases as well as dolls and toys (check out the resistance leaders in camouflage). You can also purchase their items at the Boneca de Ataúro shop in Dili, too.
Empreza Di’akARTS & CRAFTS
(%Ataúro 7730 3698, Dili 7726 6204; geral@empreza-diak.com; Beloi) S
This eco-friendly NGO sells locally carved crocodiles, bamboo straws and pottery. The pottery is an Ataúro tradition remembered, and brought to life again, by two local women in their late 90s.
8Getting There & Around
The most convenient way to get to/from Ataúro is with Compass Charters’ water-taxi service, which departs Dili daily at 7.30am from just east of the Palácio do Governo (US$45 one way, 90 minutes) and lands at Barry’s Place. It departs Barry’s Place for Dili at 9.30am daily and sometimes again around 3pm.
The Nakroma ferry departs Dili Port on Saturday at 8am arriving at Beloi on Ataúro, just south of Barry’s Place, and returns at 3pm, taking two hours each way. Buy tickets from Dili dock on Friday (US$4 one way).
The Laju Laju car ferry leaves Dili for Beloi on Thursday at 8am and departs with a great deal of horn blowing the same day at 3pm (US$5 one way).
Kevin runs the MV Ataúro (US$35 one way; +670 7733 6612). He also offers whale sightseeing trips between September and December, or alternatively try Beloi Beach Hotel, which can get you to and from the island on a charter for US$45 per person.
Dragon Star Shipping sends a river boat to Ataúro on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday at 8am, departing Ataúro at 3pm (2.30pm Monday and Friday). However, we don’t recommend it: it often does not leave in rough weather and is not designed for sea travel. Fares for foreigners are US$15 one way, and it takes an hour. Accommodation hosts can help you to get around, whether by motorbike or boat.
Eastern Timor-Leste
With your own wheels (or on painfully slow public transport) you’ll stumble across lime-green rice paddies, mangroves and idyllic beaches where buffaloes (and the occasional crocodile) roam. You’re essentially on the long road east to check out two things: Mundo Perdido and the resistance centre of Loi Hunu, and the isolated white sands and coral reef of Jaco Island, a short trip from the mainland. En route, you’ll pass reminders of the various occupiers of this land, including Portuguese forts and churches, and Japanese WWII hillside tunnels, as well as a monument to three nuns who were murdered by Indonesian militia in 1999. This is also the direction to head for some the country’s best diving spots, while Baucau is certainly worth stopping at for its beaches, historic accommodation and lovely pool.
WORTH A TRIP
VENILALE
It takes an hour to drive the 28km of rugged road to the crumbling colonial buildings of Venilale, a town wedged between Mt Matebian in the east and Mundo Perdido (1775m) in the west. Almost halfway between the two, look for the seven caves tunnelled out of the hillside by Japanese forces in WWII; you can stop and have a wander through. In Venilale, check out the resistance monument – painted in the Timor-Leste colours of yellow, black and white.
Built in 1933, Escola do Reino could win prizes for its have-to-see-to-believe colour scheme. Unfortunately the school, and its library, is not faring well, but the blue and pink stripes remain bright.
Baucau
POP 16,000
Perched on a steep hillside 123km east of Dili, Baucau is a tale of two cities (or, rather, large towns): the Old Town with its sea views and Portuguese-era relics, and the bland, Indonesian-built New Town (Kota Baru), up the hill. A road leads downhill from the pousada through a lush ravine to the palm-fringed seaside village of Osolata.
Don’t miss the roundabout with its fresh food (and fish) market, the towering pousada and the picturesque swimming pool (Old Town Roundabout, on the road to the beach and Los Palos; US$1), which is fed by a clear natural spring. It’s a further 4km down to Baucau’s white-sand beach (keep a look out for crocodiles).
4Sleeping
Baucau Beach BungalowBUNGALOW$
(%7770 4585; Osolata; r per person incl breakfast bungalow/house US$15/25; camping US$5)
Choose between a thatched bungalow that sleeps five, or one of three rooms in a nearby house (with shared facilities) closer to the beach. Meals can be arranged for US$8, with fish sourced from local boats. It’s 4km from Baucau’s Old Town; take a mikrolet (small minibus; 50cv) from the roundabout. A grassy patch is perfect for camping.
Book ahead for weekend stays.
Melita GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%7725 0267; menobruno@yahoo.com; Rua Vao Redi Bahu, Old Town; s/d US$20/30; aW)
oPousada de BaucauHOTEL$
(%7724 1111; www.pousadadebaucau.com; Rua de Catedral, Old Town; s/d incl breakfast US$70/75; aW)
An eerie history as a torture centre during the Indonesian occupation doesn’t stop this large, salmon-pink building from topping the best hotels of Timor-Leste list. Comfortable rooms have views, mini bars, tais (woven cloth) bedheads, timber floorboards and antique furniture. A block of new rooms (without views) were being built when we visited. There’s also a fancy (and expensive) restaurant.
5Eating & Drinking
A few restaurants sit on the main road in the Old Town, and there are cheap warungs (food stalls) in the New Town. The road to Baucau is lined with roadside stalls selling ai manas (chilli paste), coconut oil and peanuts.
Tato-TotyINDONESIAN$
(%7848 4478; by the roundabout, Old Town; h9am-10pm)
This upstairs restaurant offers a tongue-twisting name, eye-busting colour scheme and delicious food. The chicken-ball soup (soto ayam) for US$2.50 is the best around. Rooms are also available (from US$35) and the swimming pool is just next door.
Restaurante AmaliaPORTUGUESE$
(%7691 0908; Rua Vila Antiga, Old Town; mains US$4-7; h9am-10pm)
This Baucau old-timer still looks welcoming with its luscious, shady and cool outdoor terrace. However, while it’s the perfect spot for a coffee or Bintang, the meals themselves can be disappointing. Still, enjoy the sea views outside, and pop your head inside and admire the wonderfully decorated altars.
8Getting There & Away
Many buses drive the 123km between Dili and Baucau (US$5, four hours). Most of the road was being dug up and replaced in 2017, which hopefully will pave the way for a shorter journey in future. Buses also head towards Lospalos (US$5, four hours); hop off at the Tutuala turn-off if you’re heading to Jaco.
Loi Hunu & Mundo Perdido
Loi Hunu was one of the main resistance areas of Timor-Leste, and it’s where many of today’s leaders came from, or hid, during Indonesian occupation. It’s still an area full of mystery, home to bat caves and hot springs.
You can learn how to cook traditional food in bamboo in an open fire at Hotel Comunitaria Wailakurini. If you’re doing the dawn climb up Mundo Perdido, purchase snacks beforehand in Baucau.
Mundo PerdidoMOUNTAIN
Crashing through foliage under the squawks of bats and lorikeets as you climb Mundo Perdido (1775m) – which translates to ‘Lost World’ – is one of the country’s highlights. The view of sunrise from the grassy plateau near the top (1380m) is worth the 4am wake-up call. Local guide Xisto (7786 7272) charges US$10 a group. The starting point is near Ossu, 20 to 30 minutes from Loi Hunu. From there, the 6km hike takes two hours return.
Guerilla HideoutHIKING
(Wasu-Diga; Loi Hunu; US$5 per person plus US$5 per group for a guide) S
Local veterans have come together to build steps up Wasa-Diga hill so that visitors can check out the rock ledges where resistance heroes, including Ossu local Lu-Olo (Francisco Guterres), and the proceeding President Taur Matan Ruak (José Maria Vasconcelos), hid. The almost vertical climb is worth it for the peaceful view from the platform at the top.
Hotel Comunitaria WailakuriniGUESTHOUSE$
(%7832 6687; hotelcomunitariawailakurini@gmail.com; Loi Hunu; r incl breakfast US$45)
This friendly guesthouse is located on a hillside near a swimming hole and waterfall. Let staff know you’re coming and you can learn to cook food in bamboo, then feast on it (US$7). Rooms are named after resistance leaders. A traditional wooden hut with carved doors and balcony costs US$5 extra – though it’s a little worse-for-wear.
8Getting There & Away
It takes two hours in a 4WD to reach Loi Hunu from Baucau. Buses to and from Baucau (US$2) head for Viqueque and Ossu and don’t pass the accommodation in Loi Hunu, but tell the driver where you’re going and you can possibly flag down a lift from where they drop you. It’s another 20- to 30-minute drive from the accommodation to the start of the hike up Mundo Perdido.
Mt Matebian & Around
Mt Matebian (2315m) was the main target of Indonesia’s aerial bombing in the late 1970s and the last liberated area to be conquered by the invading forces. Stories abound of the ferociousness of the attacks, with entire families wiped out when the caves they were hiding in collapsed under fire. It’s also known as ‘Mountain of the Dead’ and remains a sacred place where the ‘souls of the good’ rest. Timor-Leste’s newer political parties are sending young recruits up the mountain to commit themselves to the spirits if they are tempted by corruption.
Matebian is topped with a statue of Christ and attracts thousands of pilgrims annually for All Souls Day (2 November).
Climbing here is no day trip: parts are dangerous, it takes a lot of time and you definitely need a local guide. It’s closed to most climbers from November to February. If you are determined to climb it, the best bet is starting out from Quelicai and walking 8km to the saddle, bedding down in tents for some rest before setting off to the summit to watch the sunrise.
You’ll need to bring your own 4WD to get here. BYO food supplies; accommodation requires local connections.
Tutuala & Jaco Island
Tutuala village is set on a bluff, with sweeping views out to sea from a renovated Portuguese pousada. Nearby, just off the road to Valu, are rock art caves (Along the road from Tutuala to Valu). They’re signposted, but it’s best to go with a guide. Down the hill, Valu has a picturesque white-sand beach, while a left after the 8km descent will take you to the thatched cabins of community-run Valu Sere. Fall asleep listening to waves lapping and wake to the stunning vision of Jaco Island, just across the turquoise waters. Development (and overnight stays) are prohibited on this sacred isle, but fishers will take you across for US$10 return. Once you arrive, you’re officially on a deserted tropical island. The water is crystal clear and there’s excellent snorkelling along the coral drop-off.
It’s a long way from Dili to Jaco (nine hours); there are a couple of sleeping options in Tutuala if you don’t make it down to Valu in one day.
oValu SereBUNGALOW$
(%7791 2657; Valu beach; camping with own/rented tent US$5/10, r US$20) S
Listen to the waves crash on to the beach from these basic, open-air bungalows (with mosquito nets) in the shaded grounds (also a campsite) of this community-run guesthouse; 25% of profits go to national park projects. Basic meals are served in a central hut. You can also purchase fish from the local fishers (US$15) and they’ll do the rest.
Gracinda’s HomestayAPARTMENT$
(Homestay Ranu Painu; %7807 7722; turn-off to Valu, Tutuala; r US$10)
This room-above-a-shop is a great relief if you’ve almost made it to Jaco but it’s too dark to continue the 6km down. The kiosk does a brisk trade in the local brandy Tua Sabu. Give Gracinda a call before arriving so she can tidy things up. It’s just opposite where the road turns down to Valu.
Tutuala PousadaHOTEL$
(Pousada de Tutuala; %7746 3880; top of the hill, Tutuala.; r per person incl breakfast US$30)
This colonial-era pousada sits high up on a hill, ignoring the rather shabby village of Tutuala behind it. With no beach access, there’s nothing to do apart from relax into the views; most visitors pass through on their way to must-see Jaco Island. Rooms are decent, with fans. Meals can be arranged for US$10.
8Getting There & Away
You can’t get to Valu by public transport. Your best bet is to catch the bus heading for Lospalos from Baucau (US$4; four hours) and get dropped off at the Tutuala turn-off in Fuiloro. Call your accommodation to see if it can organise an ojek (motorcycle taxi) to pick you up from here – it’s an hour to Tutuala.
Once at Tutuala you’ll have to walk the last 8km down to the beach.
Local fishers will whisk you off for the short journey by boat to Jaco Island for US$10 (return; per group). Let them know your return time and they’ll come and get you.
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