Ever since ancient times, this luxuriant, saddle-shaped rock in the Bay of Naples has captured the world’s imagination as a place where dreams can be realized and life can become an earthly paradise. Hopes and wishes notwithstanding, the island does have something special, perhaps generated by its sheer dramatic beauty, its crystal-clear waters and its lush vineyards and lemon and olive groves that seem to cover every available corner.
Whether by ferry, hydrofoil or private yacht, virtually all visitors to the island arrive at this little port town – a mesmerizing sight as you approach. It’s a colourful place, but the bustle is only skin-deep – in reality it’s just as laid back as the rest of Capri.
Piazza Umberto I, which is known simply as “Piazzetta” is the town’s outdoor salon, filled to the brim with chic bars and restaurants. Nighttime is when the true Capri denizens come out to play.
Emperor Tiberius’s 1st-century-AD villa, built on the cliff’s edge, is now in ruins but the views of the Bay of Naples, from the highest point at this end of the island, are dazzling.
Follow signs from Capri Town for this easy-going walking trail, where rocky staircases offer fine panoramas of the mainland coastline. The Natural Arch itself consists of a huge lime-stone crag, jutting out and with the bright tur-quoise sea seen below.
Via Krupp is a switchback path carved into the cliff face. From here there are views of I Faraglioni rocks.
This small harbour has private bathing huts, a pebbly arc of beach, wonderful rocks for diving from and several good fish restaurants.
No trip to the island is complete without a chairlift ride up to Capri’s highest peak, from which you can look down on the pastoral timelessness of lemon groves, little white houses, and endless flower gardens that cover the island – breathtaking.
Before 1877, when the road was built, Anacapri was isolated and is still less pretentious than the rest of the island. From here, another great jaunt is to the lighthouse at Punta Carena, where a rocky beach awaits, as well as good facilities and restaurants.
Built by a Swedish doctor on the site of one of Tiberius’s houses, Villa San Michele is an eclectic mix of Romanesque, Renaissance and Moorish styles, surrounded by gorgeous gardens.
The island’s most famous attraction is this sea-grotto, of a colour and intensity of blue that can be experienced no- where else. Local oarsmen ferry visitors inside – be aware that the grotto can close at short notice due to tide levels.
Capri emerged on the upmarket tourist map in the 19th century, but the high point of famed “Gay Capri” was the early 20th century, which is when it began to attract literati such as Norman Douglas, Graham Greene, Somerset Maugham and Maxim Gorky. Later on, the 1960s, the era known as “Capri People”, brought the international jet-set to the island, including La Dolce Vita swingers, Hollywood film stars, and even the beautiful newly-wed Jacqueline Kennedy.