SPACCANAPOLI TO CAPODIMONTE
The ancient heart of the city is celebrated for its striking juxtaposition of chaos and consummate artistry, but most of all for the sheer, boundless energy of the Neapolitan spirit. In many ways, it is an atavistic realm, ruled by its past, including innumerable disasters, but it is also a city with an awareness of its abiding glories, and Old Naples has opened anew to the world. Its narrow streets are much safer and cleaner than before and its erstwhile dilapidated, shut-away treasures are now restored and far better organized, without losing any of their uniquely vibrant feeling. Spaccanapoli is the colloquial name for the long, narrow street that runs from Via Duomo to Via Monteoliveto and is the remnant of an ancient Greco-Roman thoroughfare.
1.Duomo
Although its position in the present-day street-plan seems to be an afterthought and the perfunctory Neo-Gothic façade is less than inspiring, inside Naples’ cathedral is a fascinating cornucopia of history, art and culture. There are ancient remains of the Greek and Roman cities to explore, including some beautiful paleo-Christian mosaics in the baptistry, and splendid art abounds in the main church and its chapels, including the huge work dedicated to the city’s patron saint, Gennaro (Januarius) (for further details see Duomo, Naples).
Impressive interior of the Duomo
2.Museo Archeologico
One of the world’s most important museums of ancient art houses some of the most famous statues from the Greco-Roman past, such as the Callipygean Venus that set standards of physical beauty that have endured through the ages. Other monumental marble works include the Farnese Hercules, but the collections also feature bronzes, mosaics, frescoes, carved semiprecious stone, glassware, Greek vases and Egyptian artifacts (for further details see Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples).
Statue, Museo Archeologico
3.Santa Chiara
Via Santa Chiara 49c • 081 551 66 73 • Open 7:30am–1pm, 4:30–8pm daily (church); 9:30am– 7:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun & public hols (museum & cloister) • Adm (church free) • DA • www.monasterodisantachiara.com The façade of this structure, rebuilt after World War II, is like a huge cliff of buff-coloured tufa, relieved only by its portico and giant rose window. Only the base of its 14th-century bell tower is original. Inside the decor has been returned to its Gothic origins, since all the Baroque embellishment was destroyed in wartime bombings. The tomb of Robert of Anjou is the largest funerary monument of medieval Italy, and behind this is the delightful tiled cloister (for further details see Santa Chiara).
Cloister tiles detail, Santa Chiara
4.Capodimonte
This impressive royal palace is home to important works by some of the greatest masters, including Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, Mantegna, Bellini, Fra’ Bartolomeo, Michelangelo, Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt and Dürer, as well as by every great painter working in Naples during the 17th and 18th centuries, including Caravaggio and Vivarini (for further details see Capodimonte, Naples).
Virgin with Child Enthroned (1465) by Bartolomeo Vivarini, Capodimonte
5.Palazzo dello Spagnolo
Via Vergini 19 Dating from 1728, this palace offers a fine example of a well-known Neapolitan architectural element, the so-called staircase “ad ali di falco” (with falcon wings). Separating two courtyards, the external stairway consists of double flights of steps with tiers of archways, a theatrical feature that became the trademark of its designer, Ferdinando Sanfelice. Stucco designs can be seen throughout; particular attention to detail is evident above doorways.
6.Santi Apostoli
Largo Santi Apostoli 9 • Open 8:30am–1pm, 4:30–8pm Mon–Sat; 9am–1pm Sun The original church on this site is believed to have been built in the 5th century over a Roman temple to Mercury. It was rebuilt in the 17th century, with decoration added over the next 100 years. As such it provides a complete treasury of 17th- and 18th-century art, not just by Neapolitan artists but by some of the greatest masters of the day. Most famous is the fresco cycle by Lanfranco, with a marvellous trompe-l’oeil architectural setting by Codazzi. Another highlight is the altar that was designed by Borromini.
7.San Giovanni a Carbonara
Via Carbonara 5 • Open 9:30am–1pm Mon–Sat This 14th-century church has no façade of its own but is reached by a double staircase through a courtyard to the left of the Chapel of Santa Monica. Inside are a circular chapel with 15th-century frescoes and bas-reliefs by Spanish masters Bartolomé Ordoñez and Diego de Siloe.
Chapel, San Giovanni a Carbonara
8.Orto Botanico
Via Floria 223 • 081 253 39 37 • Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri by appt only • Guided tours Mar–May • www.ortobotanico.unina.it Created in 1807, this botanical garden is one of Italy’s most important, both in size and in its collections. Given Naples’ climate, it has been possible to cultivate examples of nearly all of the world’s plants and flowers here. Historic structures include the Neo-Classical Serra Temperata, built in 1807 and the double stairway entrance to the grounds.
Cactus display, Orto Botanico
9.Sansevero Chapel
Via Francesco de Sanctis 19 • 081 552 49 36 • Open 10am–5:40pm Mon, Wed–Sat; 10am–1:10pm Sun • Adm • www.museosansevero.it Few spaces are decorated with such unity as this family chapel, designed by the eccentric 18th-century prince Raimondo di Sangro. Full of allegorical symbolism, the statuary are among Naples’ most famous, particularly the “veiled” figures of Christ and Modesty. Don’t miss the Anatomical Machines.
10.Piazza Bellini
One of the most appealing places in Naples is lined with cafés, bookshops and palaces. Of particular note is the monastery of Sant’Antonio a Port’Alba, incorporating 15th-century Palazzo Conca. At the centre of the piazza, in addition to a statue of the eponymous composer, is an archaeological exca-vation, revealing 5th-century BC Greek walls of large tufa blocks (for further details see Piazza Bellini, Naples).
THE THREE GUGLIE
The area’s three guglie (“needles” or “spires”) imitate the original towering contraptions built in the 1600s and 1700s to celebrate feast days. The first stone guglia was raised to San Gennaro, when the saint supposedly saved Naples from Vesuvius’s fury in 1631. Next came one dedicated to San Domenico, as thanks for the end of the 1656 plague. The last adorns Piazza del Gesù, dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin.
A MORNING AT OLD NAPLES’ CHURCHES
Begin your tour of Naples’ two oldest main streets at Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, where you can admire the Guglia dell’Immacolata and the rusticated façade of the Gesù Nuovo. Further along, enter Santa Chiara to take in the medieval tombs and then around the back to see the famous tiled cloister.
Continuing on, stop for a drink at one of the cafés in Piazza San Domenico, where you will note that the Guglia di San Domenico has mermaids sculpted on its base. Across the street, stop in at the church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo to see its Donatello bas-relief, and at the next corner, look for the ancient statue of the god of the Nile, known familiarly as “The Body of Naples”. Follow the street all the way to Via Duomo, pausing at the shops of all kinds along the way.
Next, visit the culturally amazing Duomo, and then go behind it to see the earliest guglia, topped by a statue of San Gennaro, and Caravaggio’s revolutionary painting The Acts of Mercy in the Pio Monte della Misericordia. Double back along Via dei Tribunali, where you can visit more fascinating churches, including San Gregorio Armeno and Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco.
Finally, head for Piazza Bellini, where you can watch the world go by and have a drink or a full meal at one of the friendly cafés.
Churches
1.San Lorenzo Maggiore
Via dei Tribunali 316 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily One of Naples’ oldest monuments, the church is a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles. In the cloister there is access to Greco-Roman remains.
Detail of the elaborate ceiling, San Lorenzo Maggiore
2.Gesù Nuovo
Piazza del Gesù 2 • Open 7:15am–1pm, 4:15–7:15pm daily The wall of this church dates back to a 15th-century fortified palace. Inside are works of art from the 16th to 19th centuries.
3.San Domenico Maggiore
Vico S Domenico Maggiore 18 • Open 9:30am–noon Tue–Thu & Sun; also 4:30–5pm Fri & Sat Highlights at this 13th-century church include frescoes by Pietro Cavallini.
4.Sant’Angelo a Nilo
Piazzetta Nilo • Open 9:30am–noon daily This 14th-century church houses the Assumption of the Virgin by Donatello.
5.San Gregorio Armeno
Via S Gregorio Armeno 1 • Open 9am–noon Mon–Fri; 9am–12:30pm Sat–Sun This church is best known for the cult of St Patricia, whose blood “liquefies” each Tuesday. It also has a beautiful cloister.
6.San Paolo Maggiore
Piazza S Gaetano 76 • Open 8am–noon, 5–7pm daily The 8th-century church still retains two Corinthian columns and features an annexed sanctuary.
7.Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco
Via dei Tribunali 39 • Open 9:30am–1pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat • Adm The railings outside are adorned with bronze skulls, evoking the tradition of care for the dead.
8.San Pietro a Maiella
Piazza Luigi Miraglia 393 • Open 7:30am–noon, 5:30–7pm Mon–Sat, 8:30am–1pm Sun Built in the 1300s, San Pietro underwent a Baroque makeover in the 1600s and then was returned to Gothic style in the 1900s.
9.Santa Maria di Donnaregina Vecchia
Vico Donnaregina 26 • Open 10am–7pm Wed–Fri, 10am–noon Sat & Sun This fine 13th-century church contains some Cavallini frescoes.
10.Santa Maria del Carmine
Piazza del Carmine 2 • Open 6:30am–12:30pm, 4–7:30pm daily; summer: until 8:30pm daily Home to the Madonna Bruna icon, the focus of a Naples cult.
Traditional Shops
1.A.S.
Vico Pallonetto a Santa Chiara 38 You never know what you’ll find in the way of old prints and period objects here – or if you’ll find the shop as it doesn’t have a sign outside! You might uncover an 18th-century engraving or a 1930s Art Deco-style poster.
2.Napul’é
Via dei Tribunali 90 Take the opportunity to see craftsmen at work at this little bottega (workshop), refining the lifelike details of wonderful nativity figures. Most of them are replicas of famous originals, but they will also create personalized versions to order.
3.Melinoi
Via B Croce 34 An upmarket outlet for stylish clothing, which includes a comprehensive range of designer labels from Italy, France and Spain.
4.Osmis
Via Santa Chiara 10F This little shop carries a charming line of locally and internationally crafted jewellery, masks, lamps, mirrors and candles.
5.Affaitati
Via B Croce 21 & Via Costantinopoli 18 One of Old Naples’ finest antiques shops. Specialities are furniture and ceramics from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Nativity figures are also on offer.
Ceramic piece, Affaitati
6.Decumano
Via Croce Benedetto 30 This large store specializes in reproductions of Capodimonte porcelain, as well as other ceramic art from Naples’ illustrious past.
7.Via San Sebastiano Shops
Along this street, just off Piazza Bellini, you’ll find Neapolitan musical instruments, from mandolins to the triccaballacco (a three-pronged clacker with cymbals attached).
Guitars for sale, Via San Sebastiano
8.Tattoo Records
Piazzetta Nilo 15 In an appealing little piazza just off Spaccanapoli, this funky music shop is good if you’re looking for CDs of local music or rare imports. The proprietor will help you find everything from traditional tarantella music to the latest Neapolitan rockers.
9.Nel Regno di Pulcinella
Vico S Domenico Maggiore 9 This little shop is crammed full of Pulcinella figures in all shapes and sizes, from the sweetly innocent to the bawdy. All in keeping with the character’s personality.
10.Scriptura
Via San Sebastiano 22 This small shop sells handmade leather products, including high-quality bags, wallets and diaries. The beautifully packaged items make great gifts to take home.
Old Naples by Night
1.Kestè
Largo S Giovanni Maggiore 26–7 This lively bar with a friendly atmosphere is open all day long for cocktails and beers. It attracts a student crowd, who dance to live bands and spill out onto the square in summer.
2.Kinky Klub
Vicolo della Quercia 26 A larger incarnation of Naples’ historic Kinky Bar, this reggae club is not at all kinky as its name suggests. Head to the lower level to enjoy the Caribbean sounds, dancing and live music.
3.La Tana dell’ Arte
Via Bellini 30 Opposite Naples’ fine arts academy, the name of this restaurant and cocktail bar means “The Den of Art”. The charming setting and outdoor terrace attract an artistic crowd.
4.Galleria 19
Via San Sebastiano 19 • Closed Mon & in summer This subterranean club draws a young crowd who come for the DJ-spun mix of house music, electronic sounds and art film screenings.
5.Evaluna Libreria Cafè
Piazza Bellini 72 A favourite in the historical centre, this bar-cum-café offers fun and culture to its clientele, who come here to read books and magazines while sipping coffees or cocktails.
6.Bourbon Street
Via Bellini 52 • Closed Mon & Jul–Aug This large jazz club features local talent every evening. In summer Bourbon Street organizes jazz cruises around the bay.
7.Velvet Zone
Via Cisterna dell’Olio 11 • Closed Mon & Jun–mid-Sep The “Velvet” is the top club in the old quarter for dancing, since it stays open until 6am at weekends. Music varies from techno to 1980s to rock, and to live music from time to time.
Vibrant decor at Velvet Zone
8.Spazio Nea
Via Costantinopoli 53 Located just steps from Piazza Bellini, a lively area after dark, this contemporary gallery is a gathering spot for artistic types. Overflowing with atmosphere, there’s indoor and outdoor seating areas, a café and Wi-Fi. They also host theatre, peformances and special events.
9.Perditempo
Via San Pietro a Maiella 8 • Closed Sun This intimate bar-bookshop-music store is anything but a “waste of time” as its name might suggest. An eclectic music soundtrack accompanies the stimulating conversation and good drinks.
10.Mamamù
Via Sedile Di Porto 46 A live music hot spot for the young music scene, which showcases indie rock, punk and electric music. Mamamù organizes a popular summer rock festival every June.
Cafés, Gelaterie and Pasticcerie
1.Gran Caffè Aragonese
Piazza S Domenico Maggiore 5–8 This café dominates the scene on a beautiful and crowded piazza. It offers a good range of local desserts and savoury snacks, and excellent Neapolitan-style coffee.
2.Bar Mexico
Piazza Dante 86 Bar Mexico is a local favourite reputed to have the best espresso in town, but if you don’t want it sweetened (alla napoletana) then ask for a caffè amaro (bitter coffee). A hot-weather winner is the frappe di caffè (iced whipped coffee). You can also stock up on some wonderful coffee blends to take home.
3.Caffè dell’Epoca
Via Sta Maria di Costantinopoli 82 Dating back to 1886, this place knows all about quality. Enjoy an espresso and a cornetto (croissant) at one of the outside tables – or make like a local and stand at the bar.
4.Gay-Odin
Via B Croce 61 A Naples institution that is a paradise for chocolate lovers. Try the hot chocolate or the divine ice cream.
Gay-Odin chocolate shop
5.Scaturchio
Piazza S Domenico Maggiore 19 Noted all over Naples for its wonderful traditional pastries, it’s a real treat to sample the wares while checking out this piazza. Don’t arrive too late or they might have sold out.
Scrumptious pastries at Scaturchio
6.Gelateria della Scimmia
Piazza Carità 4 This is one of the city’s oldest and most famous gelaterie (ice-cream parlours) so expect a crowd.
7.Xeo Cafe
Piazza Sette Settembre 20/21 A unique blend of bar and gelaterie, here you’ll find freshly made, all natural gelato served as ice lollies, which is quite the novelty in Italy.
8.Intra Moenia
Piazza Bellini 70 A good place to hang out and enjoy a drink. In warm weather it’s also a lively gay venue in the evenings.
9.Caffè Arabo
Piazza Bellini 64 Not just a great café with an appealing atmosphere, but a purveyor of tasty Arabic goodies and full meals.
10.Internetbar
Piazza Bellini 74 This trendy establishment offers Internet facilities, drinks and snacks, as well as an art gallery.
Pizzerie
1.L’Antica Pizzeria “da Michele”
Via Cesare Sersale 1–3 • 081 553 92 04 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • € The most traditional of Naples’ pizzerie. The menu is limited to only two varieties, margherita and marinara. Still, the taste is sublime – and the wait often considerable. Take a number at the door before queuing. Tables are shared.
2.Lombardi a Santa Chiara
Via B Croce 59 • 081 552 07 80 • Closed Tue • € Follow the locals downstairs to eat fresh pizza either standing up or sat on stools. Avoid the pricey restaurant.
3.Di Matteo
Via dei Tribunali 94 • 081 45 52 62 • No credit cards • € As well as pizza, try some frittura here – deep-fried titbits of vegetables, rice and cheese.
4.Pizzeria del Presidente
Via dei Tribunali 120–1 • 081 21 09 03 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • € Another pizzerie on this busy street, which gained its moment of fame when then US President Bill Clinton stopped by for a snack.
5.Pizzeria Starita
Via Materdei 27–28 • 081 557 36 82 • Closed Sun L • € One of the oldest pizzerie in Naples, this place is famous for its antipasti and fresh pizzas. The angioletti fritti (fried angels) is a popular item, too. Expect a queue, especially weekends.
6.Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba
Via Port’Alba 18 • 081 45 97 13 • € Through an archway off Piazza Dante, this pizzerie even has a traditional wood-fired oven with lava stones from Mount Vesuvius.
7.Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro
Via Pietro Colletta 42–6 • 081 553 94 26 • No credit cards • € Every bit as traditional as “da Michele” – and just across the street – this eatery is more upmarket, with a larger choice. The decor recalls the city’s belle époque heyday.
Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro
8.Pizzeria Sorbillo
Via dei Tribunali 32 • 081 44 66 43 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • € The main restaurant is modern but the stand-up branch next door dates from 1935. Here you can be entertained by pizza makers who twirl the dough, dash on the topping and pop it into the brick oven.
9.Pizzeria Vesi
Via S. Biagio dei Librai 115 • 081 551 10 35 • No credit cards • € Pizzeria Vesi specializes in “pizza DOC” – a delicious aromatic union of mozzarella balls, pomodorini (cherry tomatoes) and basil.
10.Pizzeria Fortuna
Via PS Mancini 8 • 081 20 53 80 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • € Little more than a counter with a few plastic tables in front, this little place turns out delicious pizzette and other goodies in seconds.
Restaurants
1.Cantina della Sapienza
Via della Sapienza 40 • 081 45 90 78 • Closed D, Sun, Aug • No credit cards • € The menu changes daily here but is always authentic. Dishes such as melanzane alla parmigiana (aubergine/eggplant with mozzarella and tomato) make a regular appearance.
2.La Cantina del Sole
Via G Paladino 3 • 081 552 73 12 • Closed Mon, Tue–Sat L, Aug • €€ A favourite with the locals, this restaurant is noted for recipes that date back to the 1600s.
3.Bellini
Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 79–80 • 081 45 97 74 • Closed Sun, 1 wk Aug • €€ This trattoria specializes in seafood pasta and grilled catch of the day. Pizza also available.
4.Mimì alla Ferrovia
Via Alfonso d’Aragona 19 • 081 553 85 25 • Closed Sun, 2 wks Aug • €€ Mimì specializes in fish and seafood, but they also have great pasta e ceci (soup with chickpeas).
Seafood dish at Mimì alla Ferrovia
5.Palazzo Petrucci
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 4 • 081 551 24 60 • €€€ Neapolitan fare with a creative touch at this Michelin-starred restaurant and adjacent pizzerie. Mimimalist decor complements the setting in the stables of Palazzo Petrucci.
6.La Vecchia Cantina
Vico S Nicola alla Carità 13–14 • 081 552 02 26 • Closed Sun • € Taking full advantage of its location next to the market, this place serves seriously fresh fish at great prices.
7.Un Sorriso Integrale
Vico S Pietro a Maiella 6 • €€ This vegetarian café serves fresh, healthy meals, including an excellent selection of sharing plates.
8.Neapolis
Via Giovanni Paladino 16 • 081 551 55 84 • No credit cards • € Cheap and tasty Greek dishes include kebabs and filled pitta breads, which you can eat in or take away.
9.Lombardi
Via Foria 12 • 081 45 62 20 • Closed Mon • €€ A restaurant and a pizzerie a bit off the beaten track, so rarely crowded. The antipasto buffet is wonderful, featuring seasonal delicacies.
10.La Locanda del Grifo
Via Francesco del Giudice 12 • 081 557 14 92 • €€ Part of the Hotel Neapolis, this small trattoria serves Neapolitan fare using seasonal produce. The pretty patio overlooks a medieval campanile.
Price Categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
€under 40€€€40–60€€€over €60