Get out those garbage bags. Put the dog in another room. Tell the kids to go in the den and watch a rerun of Saved by the Bell. It’s time to get down to some serious business: We’re going to clean out the pantry!
To be an effective, efficient cook, you have to have the right tools for the job. the toolbox? That’s your pantry. This chapter lists everything you’ll need, from food staples to utensils, to make your kitchen a lean, mean, culinary machine. Each item is thoroughly explained, and a list organizes the items according to where you can expect to find them in the market. A final section emphasizes the importance of shopping for organics.
AGAR AGAR: Also called kanten, this tasteless dried seaweed can replace gelatin in recipes. It’s sold packaged in powdered form at natural food stores and Asian markets.
BROWN RICE VINEGAR: Its light, clean taste adds a mild acidity to foods. Used in salad dressings and marinades.
COCONUT OIL: A healthier saturated fat. It’s made up of medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) that are converted into energy and are not stored in the body as fat. Coconut oil is nutritious, easily digestible, and withstands high levels of heat without becoming an unhealthy trans-fatty acid. It is used for baking and stove-top cooking. For those avoiding dairy, coconut oil is a great alternative to butter.
CORNMEAL: Dried corn that has been ground into a coarse flour. Used for breads. Also called polenta.
DULSE FLAKES: A red, salty seaweed that is excellent for sprinkling on many greens, including salads. Like most sea vegetables, dulse is high in iron, iodine, and manganese. Available in most natural food stores. Look for Sea Seasonings Organic Dulse Granules produced by Maine Coast Sea Vegetables.
EDAMAME: Fresh young soybeans in green pods. Available fresh from June through October. A good snack straight from the pod. Cascadian Farms has frozen packages throughout the year.
FLOUR: Any grain can be ground into flour. We suggest organic unbleached all-purpose white flour, which is less refined than commercial white flour, for general use. Flour should be bought fresh and stored in airtight containers in either a refrigerator or a cool, dark space.
HERBS AND SPICES: Herbs are the fragrant leaves of annual or perennial plants that grow in temperate zones. Common herbs include basil, bay leaf, chervil, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme. Spices are pungent or aromatic seasonings obtained from the bark, buds, fruit, roots, seeds, or stems of plants and trees. Herbs and spices should be kept in airtight containers away from light and heat. Use within a year for maximum flavor. Try to buy organic herbs.
KAFFIR LIME LEAVES: From the kaffir or wild lime tree, the leaves have a very pungent, limelike scent. Available fresh, frozen, or dried. When purchased fresh they keep in the freezer for months. Most commonly used in Thai cooking like a bay leaf. Can be found at Asian specialty markets.
KOMBU: Long, dark brown to black seaweed that is dried and folded into sheets. Keeps indefinitely when stored in a cool, dry place. Kombu contains a full range of trace minerals often deficient in people with compromised immune systems. High in potassium, iodine, calcium, and vitamins A and C.
KUDZU OR KUZU: A root starch pulverized into a powder. Used to thicken soups and sauces or as a substitute for cornstarch or arrowroot. The powder must be dissolved in cold water before being added to food. Kudzu has calming properties that aid digestion.
MAPLE SYRUP (Grade B Organic): Darker and richer than its Grade A cousin, it’s also not quite as sweet. A small amount of Grade B maple syrup imparts a cozy, full flavor to food. Excellent for baking and cooking. Buy only organic maple syrup, as non-organic brands may use formaldehyde and other chemicals.
MIRIN: A Japanese sweet rice wine that adds sweetness and gentle flavor to sauces and dressings. I partner it with tamari, ginger, garlic, and sesame oils. Mirin is available without additives in most natural food stores.
MISO: Also called bean paste, this Japanese culinary mainstay has the consistency of peanut butter. Miso is used in sauces, soups, marinades, and salad dressings. The lighter the color of miso, the mellower it is: white (made with rice) is smooth, red is richer, and dark brown is full-bodied and salty. Miso is extremely nutritious. Store tightly covered in the fridge. Use within three months.
NORI: Paper-thin sheets of dried seaweed. It has a sweet and salty taste that partners well with roasted nuts. Rich in protein, calcium, iron, and trace minerals. Commonly used to wrap sushi.
OLIVE OIL (extra virgin): An ancient oil still pressed from tree-ripened olives. Considered a healthy source of fat. There are many types of olive oil, but I prefer using cold-pressed, which means the oil was made without heat or chemical treatments. Store large quantities of olive oil in a cool, dark place; keep your everyday supply in a dark container. Use within six months. Buy organic, if possible.
RAPADURA: Unrefined whole organic sugar that has a unique caramel taste and natural coloring. Offers nutritional value far superior to that of refined sugar. Captures the sweet essence of evaporated sugar cane. Use in the same proportions as refined sugar … meaning use it sparingly!
RICE (basmati): A long-grain rice imported from India. Basmati translates as “queen of fragrance.” Basmati is chewy and light in texture and has a nutty aroma. Available in white or brown.
RICE (jasmine): An aromatic rice originally from Thailand. It has a nutty flavor similar to basmati rice.
SAFFLOWER OIL: This flavorless, colorless oil extracted from safflower seeds is healthier than vegetable oils such as corn oil. I strongly recommend using Spectrum brand’s 100 percent expeller-pressed unrefined organic safflower oil. It is made without hexane or other harmful chemicals. Keep refrigerated after opening.
SEA SALT: Salt garnered from the natural evaporation of seawater. It’s far healthier than common iodized table salt and contains more than eighty valuable trace minerals. Available in fine grains or larger crystals.
SESAME OIL: Oil pressed from the sesame seed. The lighter version is very mild and good for cooking, as it resists breaking down under heat. The darker version, called toasted sesame oil, has a strong, nutty flavor. It is heat-sensitive, so use it sparingly to flavor Asian-style dishes that are off the flame. If these oils are packaged in clear glass bottles, try to purchase bottles from the back of the shelf that have not been exposed to much light (this is true for the purchase of all oils).
SPELT FLOUR: Has a mellow, nutty flavor and a slightly higher protein content than wheat. For people sensitive to wheat, the gluten contained in spelt may be easier to digest.
STOCK: Keep a few 1-quart boxes handy in your pantry for when you don’t have time to make homemade stock. Purchase organic vegetable or chicken stock made by Pacific or Imagine.
SUNFLOWER OIL: A flavorless all-purpose oil with a fatty acid profile similar to that of extra virgin olive oil. Perfect for baking and cooking over medium heat. This oil can be substituted in all baking recipes for any vegetable oil. I recommend High-O Sun-flower Oil Blend by Omega Nutrition.
TAMARI: A dark sauce made from soybeans. The taste is similar to that of soy sauce, but tamari is made without wheat.
TOFU: Made from fermented soybean milk, tofu comes in soft, medium, and firm varieties. Sold packaged in water. Keep refrigerated; it’s extremely perishable. Tofu is rich in protein and low in fat.
UDON NOODLES: These Japanese noodles of varying thicknesses are made from wheat flour. Sold fresh and dried.
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE: This thin, dark, and piquant sauce is used to season everything from vegetable juices (it goes extremely well with tomato) to sauces, soups, and salad dressings. It’s now available in organic and vegetarian varieties.
Foods that are exposed or stored at room temperature can develop bacteria and mold. Store hot foods in sealable plastic containers as soon as they cool down. Keep on hand airtight containers in several sizes with indented lids: These seal well, exclude air, and facilitate stacking. Use masking tape and a permanent marker to label containers with the date and contents (this makes it easy to identify and toss outdated food before it becomes a science experiment). Glass storage jars are not necessarily airtight.
Use vegetables as soon as possible after purchase. Storing them too long robs them of freshness and sweetness. Don’t wash vegetables until you are ready to use them; they will last longer if not washed in advance. Place vegetables in the crisper drawer in the refrigerator. Keep lettuces in a resealable plastic bag with a paper towel inside to absorb moisture. Poke a couple of holes in the bag.
When storing food in aluminum foil, I recommend cutting a piece of parchment paper slightly smaller than the piece of foil. Place the parchment on the foil, then place the food on the parchment and wrap. This keeps the food from coming in contact with the foil, avoiding the possibility of the foil leaching into and reacting to the acids in the food.
Stocks (All-Purpose Chicken Stock and No-Fuss Roasted Chicken Stock)
Roasted tomatoes (see Inner Cook Notes in the recipe for Puttanesa Sauce)
Nuts
Various roasted
Pestos (Pistachio Mint Pesto and Basil and Arugula Pesto)
Frozen fruit
BAKING DISHES: Choose convenient sizes and styles. Common types include an 8- or 9-inch square glass or ceramic baking dish, a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom, an 8- to 10-inch springform pan, and a 9- or 10-inch glass or ceramic pie plate.
BAKING SHEETS: There are two types of baking sheets—a flat cookie sheet and a sheet pan or jellyroll pan that has raised sides. Always use the rimmed pan for roasting so juices or oils don’t spill and force you to clean the oven. Common sizes are 14 by 17 inches or 12 by 17 inches. Before you buy, measure the interior of your oven!
BLENDER: Great for making silky smooth soups, sauces, nut creams, and smoooothies. A word of caution when blending hot liquids: To avoid splatter burns and liquid dripping down the wall, don’t fill the blender past the two-thirds mark. Also, put a towel over the lid before starting the blender. A blender’s tall, narrow, leak-proof container is preferable to a food processor when blending liquids. Blending also adds air, resulting in a lighter finished product. (See also Vita-Mix.)
BOWLS: Use lightweight nesting stainless-steel bowls. They’re easy to maintain, durable, and inexpensive, so you can keep every size on hand.
CHEESECLOTH: Use unbleached cheesecloth to strain soups and stocks or to tie herbs into a small bundle to use in soups and stews.
CHINOIS AND PESTLE: A cone-shaped mesh sieve used to remove sediment from stocks and make sauces velvety smooth. The pestle is tapered to fit into the bottom of the sieve to help push liquids through.
COLANDER: Should have wide grips for easy lifting or for resting the colander on a bowl or pot. Widely spaced holes are designed to drain larger items such as pasta and potatoes. Available in a variety of sizes and hole diameters. Line your colander with cheesecloth before straining broths and stocks.
CUTTING BOARD: You have two choices here—the resin in natural wood boards is bacteria resistant, as long as the wood has not been treated, but plastic and polyethylene boards are dishwasher safe. Regardless of which material you choose, buy two boards. Use one exclusively for vegetables, the other for meat and poultry. Wash well after use.
FINE-MESH SIEVES: Small sieves are ideal for sifting flour and other fine powders. Use larger sieves for draining or blanching vegetables.
FOOD PROCESSOR: Choose a processor with at least an 11-cup container. The metal blade (S shaped) does everything from chopping vegetables to making cookie dough. Alternate blades are available for specific tasks. A mini food processor has a smaller bowl and motor and is good for nuts, pesto, salad dressings, and other small grinding jobs.
KNIVES: We recommend buying three knives. The most important is a sharp 8-inch chef’s knife that you will use for most cutting and chopping. Also purchase a 2- to 3-inch paring knife for delicate slicing or paring and a 10-inch serrated bread knife. To keep your knives sharp—a sharp knife is much safer than a dull knife—you will need an item called a steel to hone the blade. A few swipes on the steel will do it!
LADLES: Essential for serving soups and sauces. Get a 6- to 8-ounce ladle for soups and a 2- to 4-ounce ladle for sauces.
LEMON SQUEEZER: My favorite kitchen toy disguised as a tool. This bright yellow handheld gadget takes a lemon or lime and, with one squeeze, extracts either all the juice or as little as you want.
MEASURING SPOONS AND CUPS: When scooping dry measurements, fill the measuring cup to overflowing and then level it off with a knife. Sets should include ⅛-, ¼-, ⅓-, and ½-, and 1-cup measures. Stainless-steel items are best, but it’s also good to have glass measuring cups in 1-cup to 1-quart sizes.
MEAT THERMOMETER: To get an accurate reading, place the tip of the thermometer close to the center of the meat. Digital thermometers are also available.
MICROPLANE GRATER: My second favorite kitchen toy! This indispensable tool is perfect for grating citrus zest, fresh whole nutmeg, or cheese. It comes in a variety of sizes and levels of coarseness.
MORTAR AND PESTLE: A small bowl with a slightly abrasive unglazed interior surface is used with a pestle to grind spices and seeds.
OVEN THERMOMETER: Don’t trust that thirty-year-old temperature gauge on the oven. Why? Toasting at the wrong temperature can turn those almonds into dust. Check the accuracy of the oven’s temperature before starting to bake.
PARCHMENT PAPER: Great for lining baking pans. Saves time and cleanup. For food storage, I recommend using a sheet of parchment between aluminum foil and the food to prevent the aluminum from leaching into and reacting with a food’s acids.
POTS AND PANS: These generally come in six varieties: Sauce pots and pans, sauté pans, stock-pots, roasting pans, grill pans, and frying pans. Heavy-bottomed pots and pans are essential. Stainless-steel 18/10 gauge is my pick. The base has an aluminum/magnetic steel core sealed between two layers of stainless steel. This is perfect for sound heat conduction and suitable for all stove tops.
Sauce pots and pans come in various sizes from 1 quart to 5½ quarts. Sauté pans typically come in 8-, 10-, and 12-inch diameters. Pans with sloping sides are easier to use. Stockpots are usually 12 quarts and larger. When buying a roasting pan, consider a 10 by 15-inch pan, which is great for roasting a chicken. Grill pans, which come in one standard size, are most effective on a gas stove. They should be rubbed with oil before using. I suggest buying an 8-inch nonstick frying pan for cooking eggs. Make sure the pan is hot before adding the butter or oil. This will prevent the butter or oil from penetrating the nonstick surface. Use only nonmetal utensils with this pan. Avoid scouring and abrasive materials, and replace the pan if the coating begins to crack or peel.
RUBBER SPATULA: Heat-resistant spatulas come in many sizes and colors.
SALAD SPINNER: For drying lettuce leaves or greens.
TIMER: Essential! Get one that rings loud enough to be heard in another room.
TONGS: Spring-action stainless-steel tongs act like extensions of your fingers and provide extra leverage and dexterity when handling hot foods. Use for turning roasted or grilled vegetables and meats. Available in 8- or 10-inch lengths, or even longer for deep pots and long reaches.
VEGETABLE PEELERS: Buy two sharp swivel peelers so a friend can help make those potato- and carrot-peeling jobs faster.
VITA-MIX: This multitasker blends and whips at warp speed and is a huge time-saver in my kitchen. An extremely powerful motor allows this machine to turn raw or cooked food into a silky purée. A kitchen dream come true!
WIRE WHISK: Used to incorporate air into food or smooth out lumps. There are a number of shapes, sizes, and weights. Choose stainless-steel whisks that fit comfortably in your hand.
WOODEN SPOONS: Unlike metal spoons, wood stays cool because it doesn’t transfer heat. Have a number of sizes on hand for every task.
One of the pleasures of cooking is always having fresh ingredients at hand. As the seasons change, so do the foods the earth gives forth. It’s enjoyable to look forward to a coming season, knowing that a favorite food (strawberries!) is about to make its annual debut at the farmers’ market. Following is a general guide to what you may see at the farmers’ market, depending upon the time of year. Remember that many staples are also available year-round at your supermarket, and some surprises are sure to show up at farmers’ markets in different regions of the country. Still, the following overview will help you connect to the place where your food comes from: Mother Earth.
The term organic typically describes food grown without chemicals, including fertilizers, insecticides, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring, and additives. For my money, organic food is the best: best for taste, best for color, best for health, and the best buy for your money. Growers and manufacturers can claim their foods are organic only if they meet the standards of the Federal Organic Foods Production Act and are certified by either state or federal officials. However, some small farmers who choose not to spend the money or time on such certification may still raise their foods, poultry, and meats without the use of any chemicals, hormones, or antibiotics. These farmers are often at farmers’ markets and are usually glad to talk about the way they raise their products. Of course, without organic certification you’re taking the farmer at their word.
Some fruits and vegetables should be avoided if they’re not organically grown because the non-organic versions contain high levels of pesticides.
The Environmental Working Group recommends avoiding the following nonorganically raised produce:
Apples
Bell peppers
Carrots
Celery
Cherries
Grapes (imported)
Lettuce
Nectarines
Peaches
Pears
Potatoes
Spinach
Strawberries
The following nonorganically raised fruits and vegetables have the least amount of pesticide residue:
Asparagus
Avocados
Bananas
Broccoli
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Frozen sweet corn
Frozen sweet peas
Kiwi
Mangoes
Onions
Papaya
Pineapples
When shopping at the farmers’ market, leave your shopping list at home. Instead, let your senses guide you. The chart on the The Produce by Season chart (below), however, will give you an idea of some of the delights you’ll find at the farmers’ markets in various seasons. For more information on seasonal availability, check out the following web sites:
Spring
Apricots
Artichokes
Arugula
Asparagus
Avocados
Beets
Baby carrots
Cauliflower
Daikon
Dandelion greens
Cherries
Fava beans
Fennel
Green garlic
Leeks
Mangoes
Mixed baby greens
Radishes
Rhubarb
Shallots
Spinach
Strawberries
Sugar snap peas
Swiss chard
Turnips
Watercress
Summer
Blackberries
Blueberries
Corn
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Figs
Melons
Nectarines
Okra
Peaches
Peppers
Plums
String beans
Summer squashes (zucchini, yellow crookneck)
Tomatillos
Tomatoes
Fall
Apples
Arugula
Asian pears
Beans (cranberry and shell beans)
Bell peppers
Broccoli
Broccoli rabe
Brussels sprouts
Fennel
Green tomatoes
Hard-shelled squashes (acorn squash, butternut, blue Hubbard, delicata, baby dumpling, pumpkins)
Pears
Persimmons
Pomegranates
Radicchio
Sweet potatoes
Winter
Bok choy
Cabbage
Celery root
Citrus fruits
Collard greens
Kale
Leeks
Parsnips
Rainbow chard
Rutabagas
Swiss chard
Remember to buy organic. Keep this chart with you while you shop.
Fresh
Edamame
Farmers’ market greens
Garlic
Ginger
Jalapeños
Kaffir lime leaves
Lemongrass
Lemons
Limes
Onions/Shallots
Oranges
Seasonal herbs
Dairy
Blond miso
Eggs—Omega-3s
Tofu—Wildwood
Freezer
Fruit—Cascadian Farms
Bulk Section
All-purpose unbleached flour
Almonds, raw, blanched, sliced
Apricots, unsulfured
Cannellini beans, dried
Cashews, whole and pieces
Chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
Coconut, shredded
Rice/Grain/Pasta/Bread
Japonica rice—Lundberg
Brown basmati rice—Lundberg
Brown rice penne—Lundberg
Brown jasmine rice—Lundberg
Wild/Brown rice blend—Lundberg
Israeli couscous
Pasta and spelt pasta
Udon noodles
Rice noodles—Annie Chun
Sprouted breads—Alvarado St.
Cornmeal crusts—Vicolo
Couscous
Cranberries, dried
Currants
Lentils
Oats
Orzo
Pecans
Pine nuts
Pistachios
Polenta
Prunes
Quinoa
Raisins
Spelt flour
Sun-dried tomatoes, unsulfured
Walnuts
Packaged Dry Goods
Agar agar flakes
Chocolate chips—malt-sweetened—Sunspire
Dulse flakes
Kombu
Kudzu—Eden
Nori
Organic stocks—Pacific or Imagine
Rapadura—Rapunzel
Maple crystals
Jarred & Canned Foods
Sunflower Oil—Omega Nutrition
Extra virgin olive oil
Safflower oil—Spectrum
Toasted sesame oil–Spectrum
Brown rice vinegar—Spectrum
Sesame oil—Spectrum
Coconut butter and oil—Omega Nutrition or Spectrum
Tamari
Mirin—Eden
Tomatoes—Muir Glen
Garbanzo beans—Eden
Black beans—Eden
Cannellini—Eden
Coconut milk—Thai Kitchen
Capers
Olives—Mediterranean
Salmon (pink)—Crown Prince
Anchovies—Crown Prince
Almond butter
Peanut butter
Blackstrap molasses
Local honey
Grade B organic maple syrup
Allspice, whole and ground
Almond extract
Baking powder
Baking soda
Basil
Bay leaves
Black peppercorns
Cayenne
Chili powder
Cinnamon, ground
Cinnamon sticks
Coriander
Cumin, seeds and ground
Curry powder
Fennel seeds
Ginger
Juniper berries
Nutmeg, whole
Oregano
Red pepper flakes
Rosemary
Saffron
Sage
Sea salt
Star anise
Thyme
Turmeric
Vanilla extract