4Sleeping

Cairo is chock-a-block with budget crash-pads, including a few really good ones, but midrange gems are rarer. At the upper end, luxury hotels line the banks of the Nile.

It pays to reserve in advance for your first night or two. Cairo is no place to haul your luggage around comparing room rates. Many budget hotels offer better rates if you book directly rather than using big online booking agencies.

How To Blend In

Even if your appearance allows it, it’s next to impossible to ‘pass’ as a native Cairene. But you can look more like a resident foreigner, thus deflecting hustler attention onto the more obvious tourists walking behind you and leaving you free to enjoy the good things about Cairo. Here’s how:

A Carry your stuff in a plastic shopping bag or a generic tote. Nothing screams ‘tourist’ like a multipocketed, zippered, heavy-duty-nylon backpack with visible water bottle.

A Cover your legs – this goes for men and women. Islamic rules aside, Egyptians have a high level of modesty, and it’s clear you haven’t been here long if you don’t feel embarrassed to show your knees in public.

A Eating on-the-go is rarely seen. Munch on your shawarma (meat sliced off a spit and stuffed in a bread roll with chopped tomatoes and garnish) or ta’amiyya either at the benches of the fast food canteen or standing just outside, watching the world go by.

A Carry a copy of Al Ahram Weekly – or the Arabic Al Ahram, if you want to go deep undercover.

4Downtown

This is primarily budget territory, though there are a few noteworthy upper-end sleeps. Either way, you’ll be in the thick of things and near great cheap restaurants. Most hotels are located on or around Sharia Talaat Harb in old apartment blocks. Don’t be alarmed by grimy stairs and shaky elevators – they aren’t necessarily a reflection of the hotels above. Many have balconies and windows overlooking noisy main streets; request a rear room if you’re a light sleeper, with earplugs as backup.

oPension RomaPENSION$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2391-1088; www.pensionroma.com.eg; 4th fl, 169 Sharia Mohammed Farid; d LE250-320, tr LE325-420, with shared bathroom s LE125-180, d LE195-273, tr LE275-370; aW)

Run by a French-Egyptian woman with impeccable standards, the Roma brings dignity, even elegance, to the budget-travel scene. The towering ceilings, fresh white-painted walls, antique furniture and filmy white curtains create a feeling of timeless calm while everything’s kept neat as a pin. Most rooms share toilets, though many have showers. Rooms in the new extension have full bathroom and air-con.

You’ll never be pressured to buy a tour here (they’re not even an option), and staff are genuinely friendly and welcoming. Unsurprisingly, this place is popular with repeat guests, many of whom could afford more expensive places but prefer the old-Cairo atmosphere here.

Bella Luna HotelHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2393-8139; www.hotellunacairo.com; 3rd fl, 27 Sharia Talaat Harb; s/d/tr/q US$20/32/38/45; aW)

Modern, backpacker-friendly Bella Luna offers great value for money with bright and large simply furnished rooms, all with bathrooms that come with piping-hot water. In the cleanliness stakes for Downtown’s budget hotels, this place really stands out. Small comforts missing elsewhere (bedside lamps and bathmats) are also provided. The (signed) entry is down an alleyway between two watch shops.

For those watching their pennies, there are also cheaper, slightly aged rooms upstairs in their older Luna Hostel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2396-1020; 5th fl, 27 Sharia Talaat Harb; s/d/tr/q US$15/19/22/25, with shared bathroom US$11/15/18/21, dm US$4-6; aW).

Museum House HotelHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2574-6672, 010-9108-8968; museumhousehotel@gmail.com; 2 Sharia Champollion;s/d/tr LE350/450/550, d/tr with shared bathroom LE350/450; aW)

With only nine rooms, this is an intimate choice in a prime position just off Midan Tahrir. There’s a cheery blue-and-white theme running throughout with pot plants adding a cosy home-from-home feel. Rooms are simple but clean, with good bathrooms, and management are super helpful. They were making a dorm (LE100 per person) when we were last in town.

Berlin HotelHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2395 7502; www.facebook.com/berlin hotelcairo; 4th fl, 2 Sharia Shawarby; s/d with air-con US$20/25, without air-con US$14/20, all with shared bathroom; aW)

The high-ceilinged, colour-saturated rooms at this old-school hostel are exceedingly simple but brim with old-fashioned character. All share toilets but air-con rooms have shower cubicles, and some now come with satellite TV. Owner Hisham is a fount of knowledge on all things Cairo, and when arranging tours only uses drivers who don’t do ‘shopping’ stops.

There’s a teensy shared kitchen too and good long-stay rates.

Travelers House HotelHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2396-4362; travelershouse hotel@yahoo.com; 4th fl, 43 Sharia Sherif; s/d/tr LE200/280/320, s/d with shared bathroom LE170/230; W)

With only five rooms (three with private bathroom), this place is a cosy choice. All rooms are large, high-ceilinged, very simple and clean. There’s a cute lounge to hang out in, scattered with kitsch Egyptian souvenirs, and with a dinky balcony where you can overlook the madness of Sharia 26th of July from above. Breakfast is an extra LE10.

Hotel RoyalHOTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2391-7203; www.cairohotelroyal.com; 1st fl, 10 Sharia Elwy; s US$21, d US$24-28; aW)

The Royal’s rooms take a minimalist approach to furnishings and come with mini fridges, office-style desk chairs and frosted-glass cubicles as in-room bathrooms. Unfortunately, service and cleaning are haphazard at best, which is a shame, because with a bit of polish this could be a winner.

Meramees HostelHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2396-2318; 5th fl, 32 Sharia Sabri Abu Alam; s/d LE250/450, dm/s/d with shared bathroom LE100/200/400; aW)

This well-positioned hostel is easy-going, and the rooms have high ceilings, wooden floorboards, large windows and balconies – though those on the 5th floor are noticeably better kept than those on the 6th. Communal bathrooms and kitchen are kept clean, and the management seems to have travellers’ interests in mind.

oGolden HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2390-3815; www.goldenhotelegypt.com; 13 Sharia Talaat Harb; s/d $30/40, new wing $40/50; aW)

A serious step-up in room quality for Downtown, Golden’s fresh, modern rooms are tiny but come with blue-tiled contemporary bathrooms and good facilities: fridge, satellite TVs, and (miracles never cease) a decent amount of powerpoints. Splash an extra US$10 to grab a recently refurbished room in the new wing for way more space and funky burnt-orange walls with stone accents.

When we stopped by last, the roof terrace was being renovated to create a cool bar area.

Windsor HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591-5810; www.windsorcairo.com; 19 Sharia Alfy; s US$46-62, d US$58-74, s/d with shower & hand basin US$37/46; aW)

Ride the hand-cranked elevator up to rooms that ooze old-timer charm, with dark furniture and scuffed-wood floors (room 25 is our favourite). The air-con is noisy, and management is prone to adding surprise extra charges, but the faded romance of the place – including the restaurant where the dinner bell chimes every evening at 7.30pm – is nostalgia-buff heaven.

City View HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2773-5980; www.cityview-hotel.com; 1 Sharia Al Bustan; s/d US$40/50; aW)

Just a step from the madness of Midan Tahrir, City View is a well-run place with friendly, helpful management and views across to the Egyptian Museum. Rooms are cosy and come with good facilities of mini-fridge, satellite TV and balcony, though the frou-frou drapes and soft furnishings are straight out of grandma’s house.

Hotel OsirisHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-0531-1822, 2794-5728; www.hotelosiris.fr; 12th fl, 49 Sharia Nubar; s/d/tr US$40/75/90, s with shared bathroom US$25; aW)

On the top floor of a commercial building, the Osiris enjoys great city views. In the spotless rooms, colourful appliqué bedspreads and palm-frond shelves add dashes of traditional flavour, though the single rooms are cramped for the price. Bag a double with balcony if you can. Breakfast involves fresh juice, crêpes and omelettes.

oSteigenberger Hotel El TahrirHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2575-0777; www.eltahrir.steigenberger.com; 2 Sharia Qasr El Nil; r from US$116; aWs)

This sophisticated customer has been shaking up the Downtown hotel scene since it opened in early 2017. From the vast, modern minimalist lobby with casual bar to the spacious, contemporary styled rooms, the Steigenberger is a soothing oasis right in the heart of the city. Service here is stellar, and it’s also excellent value in comparison to other top-end options.

Cairo for Children

Cairo can be exhausting for kids, but there is much they will enjoy. Be aware the pavements and traffic can be a nightmare for parents with little ones, so backpack-style child carriers are a much better idea for toddlers than pushchairs. The heat can be a serious drain on kids, as well as frazzle parents, so visit in the cooler winter months if possible and time outdoor sightseeing for the morning. It’s worth buying Cairo, the Family Guide, by Lesley Lababidi and Lisa Sabbahy (AUC Press), revised in 2010.

Children of all ages will like an excursion on a Nile felucca or a night-time party boat, gawking at Tut’s treasures in the Egyptian Museum, and investigating the Pyramids of Giza and the brilliant solar barque at the nearby Cheops Boat Museum, as well as exploring the mazelike market of Khan Al Khalili. For evening entertainment, most kids will be mesmerised by a rambunctious and colourful performance of the Al Tannoura Egyptian Heritage Dance Troupe, while the Cairo Puppet Theatre shows should enchant younger ones.

Parents with smaller children should head to Al Azhar Park on a Friday or Saturday, when local families flock here for picnics. It’s a great chance to mingle with local children. Although a full-tilt tourist trap, many little ones will also enjoy Dr Ragab’s Pharaonic Village (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3572 2533; www.pharaonicvillage.com; 3 Sharia Al Bahr Al Azam; family of 4 entry and tour program from LE255; h9am-5pm, to 7pm Jul & Aug). A little tattered, it’s good for sparking the imagination about what life in ancient Egypt was like. In Ma’adi, the Art Cafe runs child-friendly arts and crafts sessions, as well as storytelling events that are a good way to balance out all the history.

4Garden City

Just south of Midan Tahrir, this area is quieter and less congested than elsewhere in Cairo, but there aren’t many hotels to choose from.

Four Seasons at Nile PlazaHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2791-7000; www.fourseasons.com/caironp; 1089 Corniche El Nil; r from US$300; aWs)

Of the two Four Seasons in Cairo (the other is in Giza), this one has a more modern vibe (check out the cool Omar Nagdi painting behind reception), and a handier location, 15 minutes’ walk from the Egyptian Museum. The impeccable rooms have windows that actually open (unfortunately rare in luxury hotels). Plus: three (!) swimming pools.

Kempinski NileHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-0000; www.kempinski.com; 12 Sharia Ahmed Ragab; r from US$150; aWs)

You enter this Nileside tower through a rather cramped, bland lobby, but things definitely get better in the rooms, which are bright and modern, with nice art hung on the walls and skinny balconies. Compared to its rivals, though, service can be a little off, and the swimming pool is a bit small.

Cairo Hotel Scams

In short, all scams are attempts to distract you from your lodging of choice. Hotels do not open and close with any great frequency in Cairo, and if it’s a known place, it is very unlikely to have gone out of business by the time you arrive.

At the airport, you may be approached by a person with an official-looking badge, claiming to be a government tourism representative. (There are no such true reps at the airport.) They’ll ask if you’ve booked a hotel and then offer to call to confirm that a room is waiting for you. Of course, they don’t call the hotel – they call a friend, who says there is no booking and that his establishment is full. Concerned, the tout will offer to find you an alternative.

Some taxi drivers will stall by saying they don’t know where your hotel is. In that case tell them to let you out at Midan Talaat Harb – from here it’s a short walk to most budget hotels. Other lines include telling you the hotel you’re heading for is closed/very expensive/horrible/a brothel and suggesting a ‘better’ place, for which they earn a commission, which will then be added to your bill.

The most elaborate scam is when a stranger (often on the airport bus) chats you up and asks your name and where you’re staying. Then the person says goodbye and isn’t seen again. What they next do is call a friend who goes and stands outside the hotel you’ve booked. When you arrive, he or she will ask ‘Are you…?’, using the name you volunteered back at the airport. Then you’ll be told that the hotel has been closed by the police/flooded because of plumbing issues/totally booked out, and that the owners have organised a room for you elsewhere.

Finally, when checking in without a prior reservation, never pay for more than a night in advance. No decent hotel will ask for more, and this gives you recourse if the place doesn’t meet your needs.

4Zamalek

The relatively quiet enclave of Zamalek offers the best night’s sleep in the city, though not the cheapest. Many of Cairo’s best restaurants, shops, bars and coffee shops are here, but sights are a taxi ride away over traffic-jammed bridges.

oHotel LongchampsBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-2311; www.hotellongchamps.com; 5th fl, 21 Sharia Ismail Mohammed; r US$84-96; aW)

Hotel Longchamps is a favourite of returning visitors to Cairo. The comfortable, stylish rooms are spacious, well maintained and come with full mod-cons of a flat-screen TV, a minibar, and, lo and behold, kettles (a rarity in Egypt). Bathrooms are generously sized and modern. The greenery-covered, peaceful rear balcony, where guests gather to chat at sunset, is a major bonus.

Horus House HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-3634; www.horushouse hotel.4t.com; 4th fl, 21 Sharia Ismail Mohammed; s/d/tr old-wing US$75/95/115, s/d new-wing US$85/105; aW)

The newly renovated rooms at this homely option are a great option – all large and classically styled with kettles, brand new mattresses on the beds, and chic beige-tiled bathrooms. Older rooms are much simpler but are kept scrupulously clean. All come with mini-fridges and satellite TV. Staff here are courteous and friendly, and go out of their way to help.

Golden Tulip Flamenco HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-0815; www.flamencohotels.com; 2 Sharia Gezirat Al Wusta; s/d/tr from US$90/100/130; aW)

This popular place is a reasonable alternative to five-star heavy-weights. Rooms are comfortable and well equipped, if rather cramped. An extra US$10 for ‘superior’ class gives you interior space and a balcony overlooking the houseboats on the Nile.

Mayfair HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-7315; www.mayfaircairo.com; 2nd fl, 9 Sharia Aziz Osman; s/d/tr US$42/48/58, s/d with shared bathroom US$29/34; aW)

Pleasantly old fashioned with high ceilings and a wrap-around terrace for breakfasts, the Mayfair is the cheapest sleep in the neighbourhood and on a quiet street. Single rooms are teensy, but doubles are a good size. All could do with a modern spruce up, but they’re clean and come with (exceedingly old) TVs and mini-fridges.

Sofitel El GezirahHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2737-3737; www.sofitel.com; Sharia Al Orman, Gezira; r from US$130; aWs)

Tired from long travels? Rest up here in a room with superb views and let the staff look after you. This hotel, on the tip of Gezira island, is delightfully quiet, but it can be hard to get a cab out. There are several good restaurants, including the hotel’s new Indian restaurant Manipuri.

Cairo Marriott HotelHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2728-3000; www.marriott.com/caieg; 16 Sharia Saray Al Gezira; r from US$130; paWs)

Historical atmosphere is thick in the lobby and public areas, which all occupy a 19th-century palace. The rooms, though, are all in two modern towers; many have tiny bathrooms, but touches like plasma-screen TVs and extra-plush beds make up for them. It also has a popular garden cafe – a great place to people-watch – and a good pool.

4Doqqi

One step removed from the all-out-bustle, Doqqi has a more residential feel. There’s not huge amounts of choice in accommodation or restaurants, but the Doqqi metro station means you’re only a hop from Downtown.

King HotelHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3335-9455; www.kinghotelcairo.com; 20 Sharia Abdel Rahim Sabry; s/d US$50/65; aW)

This modern mid-rise does a lot right; one of the reasons it’s used by many tour groups. Staff here are charming and on the ball, and while the large rooms may be boring beige, they all come with TV, mini-fridge, powerful air-con and clean bathrooms. A major bonus is the rooftop Nomad Bar where your beer comes with a Pyramids view.

Sheraton CairoHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3336-9700; www.sheratoncairo.com; Midan Galaa; r from US$205; paWs)

After a very swish head-to-tail refurbishment, Cairo’s Nileside Sheraton reopened in mid-2017 and is now home to some of the city’s chicest rooms. Spacious and well designed – all soothing neutral tones and elegant furnishings – they come with big, comfy beds and wide balconies; some have exceptional cityscapes. Service is as slick as you’d expect.

4Islamic Cairo

The negatives: no immediate metro access, touts like locusts, nowhere to get a beer and more than the usual number of mosques with loudspeakers. But this is the place to plunge in at Cairo’s deep end.

Arabian NightsHOTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2924-0924; www.arabiannights.hostel.com; 10 Sharia Al Addad; s/d/tr US$20/25/28, with shared bathroom US$12/18/25; aW)

Distinctly out of the tourist fray. Some rooms are quite dark, but standards are generally good and the place is kept shipshape and clean. The challenge is finding it: turn north on Sharia Al Mansouria (east along Sharia Al Azhar from Midan Hussein); 300m on, turn left at the ruined shell of cinema Kawakeb.

El HusseinHOTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591-8089; off Midan Al Hussein; s/d LE200/250; a)

Off either side of an open-ended hallway where street noise reverberates, the rooms here are dreary and the service surly. But the view from the front-facing rooms with balconies affords mesmerising people-watching on Midan Al Hussein below. There’s a top-floor restaurant too. Entrance is in the back alley, one block off the square.

5Eating

In Cairo, you can spend LE5 or LE500 on dinner.

Many midrange and top-end restaurants double as bars.

Too tired to leave the hotel? You can get just about anything delivered, and even order online through www.otlob.com, with service from more than 120 of the city’s most popular restaurants.

At the budget end of the spectrum are the street carts, kushari (mix of noodles, rice, black lentils, fried onions and tomato sauce) canteens, and fruit-and-veg markets where the majority of Cairenes feed themselves. One step up are the Egyptian fast-food operations – forget KFC and Pizza Hut – that serve some of the most delicious and cheapest meals you’ll have. As with the hotel scene, reliable midrange options are in short supply, but the few good ones offer great value, especially for traditional food.

At the upper end, Cairo dining can be quite cosmopolitan, with the chefs usually imported straight from the relevant country, along with all the ingredients. Dinner reservations are generally recommended.

5Downtown

This is predominantly cheap-and-cheerful territory, plus a few nostalgic favourites. It’s by far the best place to get good authentic Egyptian street food.

oAbu TarekEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 40 Sharia Champollion; kushari LE10-25; h8am-midnight; v)

‘We have no other branches!’ proclaims this temple of kushari. No, the place has just expanded, decade by decade, into the upper storeys of its building, and continues to hold on to Cairo’s unofficial ‘best kushari’ title. Eat in, rather than takeaway, to check out the elaborate decor upstairs.

Order the ‘special’ for the all-important extra chickpeas and fried onions.

oAt Tabei Ad DumyatiEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2579-7533; 31 Sharia Orabi; ta’amiyya, shawarma & sandwiches LE2.50-23, dishes LE4.50-51; h7am-1am; v)

The takeaway section out front does a roaring trade in shawarma (meat sliced off a spit and stuffed in a bread roll with chopped tomatoes and garnish) and ta’amiyya (Egyptian variant of falafel), while out back is a sit-down canteen that bustles with families and offers some of Cairo’s cheapest meals with a popular salad bar and friendly waiters.

Pick your salads, eat some fuul and tuck into crisp-outside, fluffy-inside ta’amiyya. There are branches on Talaat Harb (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Talaat Harb Complex, Sharia Talaat Harb; h9am-midnight) and in Mohandiseen (MAP; %02-3304-1124; 17 Sharia Gamiat Ad Dowal Al Arabiyya; h7am-1am).

Koshary GohaEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 4 Sharia Emad Ad Din; mains LE7-15; h10am-midnight; v)

Egyptian families know a good deal when they see one, and that’s why Koshary Goha’s outdoor tables are often packed solid in the evening. The kushari here is seriously good with liberal sprinklings of fried onions and a proper hot sauce on the side. But the real treat is the makaroneh bi lahm, a baked pasta casserole with spicy tomato sauce.

Greek ClubMEDITERRANEAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2575-0822; 21 Sharia Mahmoud Bassiouni; minimum LE30, cover charge for non-Greek LE5, dishes LE10-70; h5pm-midnight)

The Greek Club is a Downtown institution and a popular hangout with liberal Egyptians, artists and foreign residents. A cold beer on the outdoor terrace is a joy during summer months. The food is nothing special but more than adequate, and the main dining room oozes vintage charm with high ceilings and tall columns.

GadEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2576-3583; 13 Sharia 26th of July; ta’amiyya & shawarma LE2.50-24, mains LE15-46; h9am-2am; v)

Gad’s lighthouse logo is fitting: it’s a beacon in the night for hungry Cairenes whether they’re in the mood for fiteer (sweet or savoury flaky pizza), shawarma, salads or European-style pizza. The ground floor is for takeaway; order and pay at the till and then take the receipts to the relevant counters. Or eat in upstairs.

The one on Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat (MAP; %02-2396-4621; Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat; h9am-2am) is typically less crowded. There are also branches on Sharia Al Azhar (MAP; h9am-2am) and Midan Falaki (MAP; h24hr).

El AbdBAKERY$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 35 Sharia Talaat Harb; pastries LE2-10; h8.30am-midnight)

For Arabic-style pastries head for Cairo’s most famous bakery, easily identified by the crowds of people outside tearing into their croissants, sweets and savoury pies. It’s a great place to augment your ho-hum hotel breakfast. There is another branch (MAP; h8.30am-midnight) on the corner of Sharia 26th of July and Sherif

Fatatri At TahrirEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 166 Sharia Tahrir; fiteer from LE35; h7am-1am)

This basic canteen just off Midan Tahrir has been serving delicious, filling, though greasy fiteer (sweet or savoury flaky pizza) to Downtown residents and legions of backpackers for decades. There’s no menu as such. The fiteer cook will just reel off the ingredients for you to choose from. They can make them decently spicy as well if asked.

Sudan RestaurantAFRICAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Haret Al Sufi; dishes LE8-40; h10am-10pm)

One of several Sudanese restaurants and cafes in this alley, this is the tidiest and perhaps serves the most delicious dishes. Try salata iswid (‘black salad’), a spicy mix of eggplant and peanuts, and qarassa, stew served in a bread bowl, among other treats.

It’s in the alley connecting Sharia Adly and Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat, in a courtyard off the southern end. Sign is Arabic only – yellow letters on a red background.

Fasahat SoumayaEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %020-9873-8637; 15 Sharia Youssef Al Guindi; mains LE35-75; h1-10.30pm; v)

This restaurant is squiggled down a little pedestrian alley. All the staples are here, prepared like an Egyptian mother would make: various stuffed veggies, hearty stews and extra odd bits (rice sausage, lamb shanks) on Thursdays. The sign is in Arabic only, green on a white wall, with a few steps down to the basement space.

Eish + MalhCAFE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-9874-4014; 20 Sharia Adly; breakfasts LE35-65, mains LE39-89; h8am-midnight; Wv)

This high-ceilinged cafe, with its original arched windows framed by floor-to-ceiling city scenes, is a favoured hang-out for hip, young Cairenes. The menu has an Italian bent with decent pizza, plenty of pasta options and really good ice cream, while in a major bonus to caffeine-fans, it also makes the best flat white (along with other espresso-based coffees) in Downtown.

Hati Al GeishEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 23 Sharia Falaki; mains LE30-180; h11am-11pm)

This temple to charcoal-grilled meat does excellent kastileeta (lamb chops) and tender moza (shanks) – good for gnawing. The moza fatta, with a side of rice-and-pita casserole, is also good plus there’s tagens (stews cooked in a deep clay pot) and multiple mezze dishes and salads for hearty Egyptian family feasting.

GomhouriyaEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 42 Sharia Falaki; pigeons LE55; hnoon-midnight)

Roast, stuffed pigeon is the star of the show here – just tell the waiter how many birds you want, and they arrive crisp and hot, along with salad and all-you-can-drink mugs of peppery, lemony broth. The small English sign says ‘Shalapy’.

Felfela RestaurantEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2392-2833; 15 Sharia Hoda Shaarawi; dishes LE12-105; h8am-midnight; v)

Attracting tourists, coach parties and locals since 1963, Felfela is an institution that can deliver a reliable, if not wildly delicious, meal with good service. A bizarre jungle theme rules the decor, but the food is straight-down-the-line Egyptian and consistently decent, especially the mezze and grilled chicken.

Le BistroFRENCH$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2392-7694; 8 Sharia Hoda Shaarawi; mains LE60-110; hnoon-11pm)

Tucked away below street level, Le Bistro is a surprisingly fancy outpost Downtown. The food may not quite match its European ideal, but Cairenes love it, and steak frites can make a nice change from kebab. The restaurant entrance is to the right; you can also order off the food menu at the bar (enter to the left).

EstorilEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2574-3102; off Sharia Talaat Harb; mezze LE21-52, mains LE60-120; hnoon-midnight; v)

There are clouds of cigarette smoke and tables crammed with Cairo’s arts-and-letters set here, but once seated, you’ll feel like one of the club, scooping up simple mezze and ordering cold beer after beer. Food is nothing special, but the atmosphere is old school.

Women can come for a drink alone here, and the bar in the back is a good place to perch too.

Café RicheEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2392 9793; 17 Sharia Talaat Harb; mezze LE8-25, mains LE50-90; h10am-midnight; v)

This narrow restaurant, allegedly the oldest in Cairo, was the favoured drinking spot of the intelligentsia. It’s gone to seed somewhat since then, though a certain old guard still sits under the ceiling fans. The mains of slightly Frenchified Egyptian dishes aren’t great, so partner your cold beer with a couple of mezze instead.

Self Catering

Sunny Supermarket (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %16848; 11 Sharia Aziz Osman, Zamalek; h7:30am-midnight daily) This small high-end supermarket has excellent fresh produce, bakery and deli sections, and stocks plenty of international products. It also makes its own line of smoothies.

Alfa Market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2737-0801; 4 Sharia Al Malek Al Afdal, Zamalek; h8am-10pm) A good range of local foods and imported items.

Souq At Tawfiqiyya (Sharia At Tawfiqiyya; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Downtown; h7am-9pm) Blocks-long fruit-and-veg market, open late. There’s a good dairy store at the corner with Talaat Harb selling fresh cheese.

5Garden City

This is the place to come for a formal feast. The luxury hotels lining the banks of the Nile here have some truly excellent restaurants.

MahrousEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Haras, Garden City; meals LE20; h4pm-4am; v)

Perhaps Cairo’s best fuul, and worth elevating to dinner status (note the atypical hours). With each plate of beans, you get a spread of salads and fresh potato chips. It’s just a tiny stand on a residential block. Turn in to Garden City at the Co-op gas station, make the first left and then a hard left at the next intersection.

oSabayaLEBANESE$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2795-7171; Corniche El Nil, Semiramis InterContinental; mezze LE40-95, mains LE145-265; h1pm-1am)

Delicious Lebanese food in a sumptuous but relaxed atmosphere. There’s plenty of grilled meat mains, but the mezze here is the real star of the show. Order old favourites hummus and sambousek (stuffed pastry triangles), some salads, chicken livers in pomegranate molasses, and bel kawarma (mashed potato doused in lamb’s fat), and you’ve got yourself a real Levantine feast.

Everything comes with fresh-baked pillows of pita, and sharing is the name of the game; all the better for sampling more mezze dishes. To top it off, service here is head and shoulders above most other places in town.

OsmanlyTURKISH$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-0000; Corniche El Nil, Kempinski Nile; mezze LE45-65, mains LE160-200; hnoon-midnight; v)

Exceptionally good Turkish food, served with elan, starting with handwashing in jasmine-scented water and moving on to a dazzling selection of cold mezze, impeccably grilled kebab plates and the odd riff on Ottoman palace cuisine, such as chicken legs stuffed with rice and pine nuts. Save room for the kunafa (sweet cheese and vermicelli-like pastry) dessert.

Bird CageTHAI$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2795-7171; Corniche El Nil, Semiramis InterContinental; dishes LE75-190; hnoon-midnight)

This soothing, wood-panelled space is a favourite with wealthy Cairenes. Grilled foods don’t have the proper char, but other preparations, such as whole sea bass wrapped in banana leaves, are good and beautifully presented. The chef will make it truly Thai-spicy if you ask.

5Zamalek

Zamalek has some of Cairo’s best and most stylish restaurants. Cheap dining is not one of the island’s fortes, but there are a few possibilities, such as the Baraka shawarma stand (MAP; %02-2736-8737; 9 Sharia Brazil; shawarma & sandwiches LE18-30; h9am-2am) on Sharia Brazil.

Several shops on 26th of July sell very good quality fresh produce.

oZööbaEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %16082; www.facebook.com/ZoobaEats; Sharia 26th of July; dishes LE3-36; h8am-1am; v)

Egyptian street food gets a modern makeover. Zööba has taken the country’s classic cheap eats and given them contemporary twists. Whole-grain kushari, beetroot baladi bread, pickled lemon and spicy pepper ta’amiyya sandwiches, and some seriously good salads and shawarma. Eat in at the zinc-clad table amid the most eclectic of decors, or take out – this is ideal picnic fodder.

It’s not just locals who are loving Zööba’s take on Egyptian fast food either. The team won first place at London’s 2016 Falafel Festival with its ta’amiyya.

CopenhagenCAFE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2737-4796; 118 Sharia 26th of July; pastries LE15-45, sandwiches LE30-75; h7am-11pm; Wv)

A strong latte and avocado toast for a light lunch – well, well Cairo, how times change. This teensy place, with just two high bar-tables and eight seats, is our new favourite coffee hangout in Zamalek. It does a selection of salads and sandwiches (which also make excellent day-out picnic fodder), plus has a ridiculously tempting display case of patisserie goodies.

The early opening hours, fresh croissants and good coffee make it a beacon for travellers who’ve lost all enthusiasm for the typical Cairo hotel bread roll/cheese triangle/hard boiled egg/fig jam breakfast combo.

Four Fat LadiesDESSERTS$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %16679; 8 Sharia Brazil; LE9-30; h8am-midnight)

Not the place for maintaining your diet. This coffee and cake joint is sugar-rush heaven with brownies, always at least six different cakes – including our favourite carrot cake in town – and a good selection of muffins and biscuits.

oO’s PastaITALIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2739-5609; www.facebook.com/ospasta; 159 Sharia 26th of July, Zamalek; mains LE68-155; h4pm-midnight; v)

A few years ago, Cairo was a-tizz with new sushi joints; now all the newbie restaurants are Italian and O’s Pasta is our pick of the bunch. Squeeze – and we mean squeeze, there are only five tables – into the blue-and-green room to munch on Red Sea calamari pasta doused in spinach and cream sauce, or pecan-basil-pesto chicken pasta.

The kitchen is right in front of you so you can watch the chefs at work, and service is friendly and efficient. The menu is nearly all pasta, with a few salads thrown in for good measure and with a rather delectable sweet-potato soup as a starter. There’s no alcohol so sup on a tart lemon-and-mint juice instead.

It’s just off Sharia 26th July, on the alleyway between Diwan bookshop and Maison Thomas; look for the blue door.

Abou El SidEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-9640; www.abouelsid.com; 157 Sharia 26th of July; mezze LE19-58, mains LE56-120; hnoon-1am)

Cairo’s first hipster Egyptian restaurant (and now a national franchise), Abou El Sid is as popular with tourists as it is with upper-class natives. You can get better molokhiyya (garlicky leaf soup, speciality of Egypt) elsewhere, but here you wash it down with a wine or beer and lounge on kitschy gilt ‘Louis Farouk’ furniture.

The entrance is just off Sharia 26th of July; take the street between Diwan bookstore and Maison Thomas, and look for the tall wooden doors. Reservations are a good idea.

Maison ThomasPIZZA$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2735-7057; 157 Sharia 26th of July; pizzas LE35-114; h24hr)

A little slice of the Continent, with loads of brass and mirrors, and friendly waiters in long white aprons, Maison Thomas has been serving up Cairo’s best thin-crust pizza for decades. Puritans should opt for the authentic Neapolitan, but we’re rather partial to the Leonardo (with artichokes and marinated peppers) as well.

SufiCAFE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2738-1643; 1st fl, 12 Sharia Sayyed Al Bakry; mains LE35-80; h9am-1am; W)

Young Cairenes tap on their laptops while sipping coffee or munching on pasta, pizza and filling sandwiches, amid creaky wood-floored rooms rimmed by shelves stuffed to the brim with old books. It’s an arty-flavoured, quiet space and, continuing with the cultural theme, there’s occasional exhibitions and film screenings.

Cairo KitchenEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-4000; 118 Sharia 26th of July; salads LE15, mains LE21-79; h10am-midnight; v)

Dig into contemporary versions of traditional wholesome Egyptian home cooking. Order from the counter – brown-rice kushari, molokhiyya or a typical Egyptian stew. The salad bar here provides one of the tastiest vegetarian meals in town. Grab a four-salad mix and pair it with a side of spicy potatoes.

The decor is colourful, prices are good and the place is popular with Cairenes. Despite the address, the entrance is one block down Sharia Aziz Osman.

CraveINTERNATIONAL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 22 Sharia Taha Hussein; mains LE43-189; h11am-midnight; W)

Most definitely not a place for vegetarians; Crave specialises in meaty comfort dishes that the clientele of Egyptian families and big groups of friends lap up. There are sandwiches, pizza and salads too but what people come here for are big-portioned dishes, such as pepper steak and chicken breast in lemon-dill sauce, all served with veggies and mash.

Left BankBRASSERIE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-0014; www.leftbankonline.com; 53 Sharia Abu Al Feda; mains LE35-195; h8am-midnight; p)

The Nileside terrace is a great place for breakfast with options ranging from French toast to a traditional Cairene plate with fuul and feta. Later in the day there is a wide selection of salads, pasta, and mains such as grilled sea bass and chicken stuffed with mushrooms and mozzarella.

PekingCHINESE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-3894; 23B Sharia Ismail Mohammed; dishes LE18-100; hnoon-midnight)

Sometimes you just need steamed dumplings. Luckily when that craving hits in Cairo you can head to Peking. Order the delicious chilli cabbage, and a bowl of hot and sour soup while you’re at it, and you’ve got yourself the perfect antidote to kushari and shawarma overload. The bar here (beer LE43, cocktails from LE70) is rather nice too.

Five BellsEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-8980; 13 Sharia Ismail Mohammed; mezze LE29-88, mains LE77-165; h12.30pm-1am)

A pretty place to rest up after a long stroll through Zamalek, this garden restaurant serves traditional Egyptian mezze to a soundtrack of Edith Piaf and other wistful European tunes, along with plinky-plonky live piano in the evenings. The bar here is a relaxed spot to snack on meatballs and fresh fried potato crisps while sinking a cold beer.

MakaniSUSHI$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-1486; 118 Sharia 26th of July; dishes LE39-110; h10am-2am)

A cafe selling sushi and pasta shouldn’t work, right? But Makani does. The sushi, though, is the pick of the menu (which also includes sandwiches), with a vast selection of classic maki rolls, fusion sushi rolls and sashimi.

ManipuriINDIAN$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2737-3737; www.sofitel.com; Sharia Al Orman, Gezira, Sofitel Gezirah; dishes LE50-280; h7pm-1am Tue-Sun; v)

Although we’d prefer a more liberal hand with the spicing, this is probably Cairo’s best Indian restaurant. The menu mostly focuses on tandoori, but there are still plentiful vegetarian curries to choose from and some seafood specialities from Kerala. If you can, eat on the outdoor terrace with its great views of the bank of the Nile.

DON’T MISS

Zamalek Ice Cream Stop

Gelato Mio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2737-1527; 6 Sharia Brazil; scoop from LE20; hnoon-1am) On a sweltering summer’s day, we make a beeline here to cool off with a mixed scoop of watermelon and prickly pear. For chocoholics, the Twix and chilli-chocolate flavours are bliss.

Rigoletto (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-2666-3110; www.rigolettoicecream.com; Yamama Center, 3 Sharia Taha Hussein; per scoop LE15; h10am-midnight) Delicious ice cream to cool you down on a hot day. For the young (and young at heart) there are fun flavours like banana milk and butterscotch, while those pining for something a tad more sophisticated can try the mastik (Arabic gum), salted peanut, or cardamom.

Mandarine Koueider (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-5010; 17 Sharia Shagaret Ad Durr; per scoop LE10; h9am-11pm) This ice cream parlour is a hit with local families taking the kids out for a treat. For a fruity kick, get stuck into the zabadi bi tut (yoghurt with blackberry).

5Mohandiseen & Doqqi

These concrete suburbs look bland and flavourless, but it’s possible to find some excellent restaurants.

Abu Ammar Al SouriSYRIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3336-0887; 8 Sharia Syria, Mohandiseen; salads & mezze LE8-12, sandwiches & shawarma LE9-35, mains LE18-74; h24hr)

At this thronged fast-food operation, pantalooned men work the shawarma skewers, folding meat slices into huge pieces of Syrian-style saj flatbread. It’s also good for trying out Arabic specialities more usually seen in Syria and Jordan, such as freek (a pilaf made from freekah, green wheat) and mansaf (Bedouin lamb dish doused in a sauce made from fermented dried yoghurt).

Yemen RestaurantYEMENI$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3338-8087; 10 Sharia Iran, Doqqi; dishes LE15-80; hnoon-2am)

This fluorescent-lit place has all the ambience of a car showroom, but it does have great authentic Yemeni dishes, served without cutlery, and huge rounds of flaky flatbread for scooping. Everything-in-the-pot salta (stew) is standard, but almost everything on the cryptic menu is richly spiced, even the ‘choped meat’. Sharia Iran is one block north of Midan Doqqi, running west.

El OmdaEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3346-2701; 6 Sharia Al Gazayer, Mohandiseen; dishes LE2.50-80; h24hr; W)

A mini-empire taking up the better part of a block, El Omda offers numerous ways to put grilled meats into your system. At the takeout joint on the corner, get a shish tawouq (marinated chicken grilled on skewers) sandwich with spicy pickles.

Mori SushiJAPANESE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %11112; www.mori-sushi.com; 30 Sharia Mohandes Mohammed Hassen Helmy, Mohandiseen; sushi 4-8-pieces LE28-120; hnoon-1am)

Egypt’s favourite sushi haunt (with several branches across the country) is always buzzing thanks to its reasonable prices and vast menu selection. From temaki and gunkan rolls to nigiri and simple maki rolls, it’s sure to solve all your Japanese-cuisine cravings.

Sea GullSEAFOOD$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3749-4244; 106 Sharia El Nil, Agouza; meals LE120-170; h11am-1am; ac)

There’s no menu here, just select your fish from the iced-down display, and then retire to your table to admire the view and tuck into a spread of salads while everything is grilled. The crowd is almost entirely Egyptian families. Outside seating is great on a balmy night; there’s air-con inside if you want it.

5Islamic Cairo

There are plenty of fast-food joints around Midan Al Hussein, but the restaurants in this part of town are limited – you really have to like grilled meat, and not be too squeamish about hygiene.

Al HalwagyEGYPTIAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591-7055; off Sharia Gawhar Al Qaid; dishes LE6-45; h24hr)

This good ta’amiyya, fuul and salad place has been around for nearly a century. You can eat at pavement tables or hide away upstairs.

Khan El Khalili Restaurant & Mahfouz Coffee ShopEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2590-3788; 5 Sikket Al Badistan; sandwiches & mains LE40-70; hnoon-3am; aW)

The tranquil Moorish-style interior of this cafe-restaurant, with its strong air-con and tarboosh-hatted waiters, is a popular haven from the khan’s bustle. Although geared to capture tourist trade, the food is decent, particularly the hawashi (meat patty) and spiced baladi sausage sandwiches, and their version of Egypt’s bread-based dessert, umm ali. The juices are also excellent.

FarahatEGYPTIAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 126a Sharia Al Azhar, Islamic Cairo; pigeons LE55-60; hnoon-4am)

In an alley off Sharia Al Azhar, this place is legendary for its pigeon, available stuffed or grilled. It doesn’t look like much – just plastic chairs outside – but once you start nibbling the succulent, spiced birds, you’ll believe the hype.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Find Your Own Ahwa

Cairo’s ahwas – traditional coffeehouses – are essential places to unwind, chat and breathe deeply over a shisha. Dusty floors, rickety tables and the clatter of dominoes and towla (backgammon) define the traditional ones. But newer, shinier places – where women smoke as well – have expanded the concept, not to mention the array of shisha flavours, which now include everything from mango to bubblegum.

There’s an ahwa for every possible subculture. We review a couple of the most famous ones, but half the joy of the ahwa is discovering ‘yours’. Look in back alleys all over Downtown. Sports fans gather south of Sharia Alfy; intellectuals at Midan Falaki. There’s a nice traditional joint down the lane behind Al Azhar Mosque, and a cool mixed crowd next to Townhouse Gallery. Most ahwas are open from 8am to 2am or so, and you can order a lot more than shai (tea) and coffee: try karkadai (hibiscus, hot or cold), irfa (cinnamon), kamun (cumin, good for colds), yansun (anise) and, in winter, hot sahlab (milky drink made from orchid tubers).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cairo isn’t a ‘dry’ city, but locals tend to run on caffeine, available at both traditional ahwas (coffeehouses) and European-style cafes. Drinking beer or spirits typically doesn’t start till the evening hours, and then it’s limited to Western-style bars and some cheaper, more locals-only dives. For the former, Zamalek is the best place to go boozing; the latter are all Downtown.

Liquor is expensive, local wine is drinkable but not great, but beer is widely available and cheap. Beers range from LE25 to LE45, while cocktails are typically only served at more upscale bars and range from LE70 to more than LE200. The fancier places can have door policies as strict as the nightclubs, so dress well and go in mixed groups. Many places also have full menus, so you can snack as you go.

6Downtown

Zahret Al BustanCOFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Talaat Harb; h8am-2am)

This traditional ahwa is a bit of an intellectuals’ and artists’ haunt, though also firmly on many backpackers’ lists, so be alert to scam artists. It’s in the lane just behind Café Riche.

Windsor BarBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591-5810; 19 Sharia Alfy, Windsor Hotel; h6pm-1am)

Alas, most of the regular clientele of the Windsor Hotel’s bar has passed on, leaving a few hotel guests, a polyglot bartender and a faint soundtrack of swing jazz and Umm Kulthum. Colonial history has settled in an almost palpable film on the taxidermist’s antelope heads, the barrel-half chairs and the dainty wall sconces. Solo women will feel comfortable here.

KafeinCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-0302-5346; 28 Sharia Sherif; h7am-1.30am; W)

This teensy cafe-restaurant, tucked in the little alley off Sharia Sherif, does good coffee and shisha, as well as yummy fresh juices and milkshakes. Many a foreign journalist enjoys the air-con confines upstairs, the free wi-fi and the caffeine-hit here. Also good for lunch, with a menu of sandwiches and salads.

CilantroCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.cilantrocafe.net; 31 Sharia Mohammed Mahmoud; h9am-2am; W)

Egypt’s home-grown answer to Starbucks, this popular chain does all the usual hot and cold coffee drinks, teas and juices, plus packaged sandwiches and cakes. If it weren’t for the gaggles of headscarf-wearing teenage girls who crowd the banquettes after school, it would be easy to forget you’re in Egypt. The latte frappé is heaven on a hot day.

There are other branches scattered throughout the city: Zamalek (MAP; 157 Sharia 26th of July; h10am-11pm; W), Mohandiseen (MAP; %02-3303-0645; cnr Sharia Gamiliat Ad Dowal Al Arabiyya & Wadi El Nil; h8am-2am) and Doqqi (MAP; Midan Al Missaha; h7am-1am; W), to name a few. All offer free wi-fi, strong air-con, and a well-separated non-smoking area.

Odeon Palace HotelROOFTOP BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2577-6637; www.hodeon.com; 6 Sharia Abdel Hamid Said; h24hr)

Its fake turf singed from shisha coals, this slightly dilapidated rooftop bar is favoured by Cairo’s heavy-drinking theatre and cinema clique, and is a great place to watch the sun go down (or even better, come up).

Le GrillonBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2574-3114; 8 Sharia Qasr El Nil; h11am-2am)

Nominally a restaurant, this bizarre faux patio is all about beer, shisha and gossip about politics and the arts scene. The illusion of outdoors is created with wicker furniture, fake vines and lots of ceiling fans. The entrance is in the back of a courtyard between two buildings.

ZigzagBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-7560-2411; www.facebook.com/zigzagCairo49; 6 Sharia Qasr El Nil; h10pm-6am)

This bar-club, set in the old Arabesque restaurant, hosts local bands on weekday nights while Thursday and Friday nights are DJ sets with electronica, R&B, hip-hop and grime. There’s a strict couples and mixed groups only entry policy. In July and August, when most of Cairo’s party-set have upped sticks for the beach, it is only open for occasional events.

6Zamalek & Doqqi

DealsBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-0502; 2 Sharia Sayyed Al Bakry; h4pm-2am; W)

This classic Zamalek hangout can get crammed, and seriously smoke-filled, late in the evening, but we still love its laid-back, casual vibe. Also check out its larger, newer sister cafe next door, No Big Deal, with a slightly old-fashioned vibe and a menu of sandwiches and coffees; open throughout the day.

SequoiaLOUNGE

(MAP; %2576-8086; www.sequoiaonline.net; 53 Sharia Abu Al Feda; h1pm-1am)

At the very northern tip of Zamalek, this sprawling Nileside lounge is a swank scene, with low cushions for nursing a shisha while downing a few beers or sipping a cocktail. The chargrilled mains don’t tend to live up to the great setting so snack on a range of mezze instead. There’s a LE200 minimum fee.

Garden CaféCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2728-3000; 16 Sharia Saray Al Gezira, Cairo Marriot; h6.30am-10pm)

The garden terrace at the Marriott is one of the most comfortable spots in town to relax over a drink. Big cane chairs, fresh air and good-quality wine and beer make it deservedly popular. The food is pricey and not very special.

Nomad BarROOFTOP BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 20 Sharia Abdel Rehim Sabry, King Hotel, Doqqi; h1pm-4am; W)

This bar, on the rooftop of the King Hotel, comes with the bonus of Pyramid views. It’s a casual and relaxed place to hang out with a beer and shisha during the evening.

Riverside CairoBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-1280-1290; www.riversidecairo.com; 16 Sharia Al Montazah; hnoon-1am)

Super-fashionable bar and restaurant in a top spot in Zamalek with regular live music and DJs on weekend evenings. Expect expensive cocktails and good sushi, but the thing here is to see and be seen. You’ll need to dress up to fit in here. There’s a minimum charge of LE200.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Baladi Bar Crawl

Bar-hopping in Cairo typically takes you to Western-style lounges. But there’s a parallel drinking culture in cheaper baladi (local) bars. These ‘cafeterias’, as they’re often signed, have a slightly seedy, old-fashioned air. Renovations funded by beer company Stella have taken a layer of grime off a few, and there’s even an (out-of-date but still fun) online guide at www.baladibar.com. Entrances are often hidden or screened off. A few Downtown classics:

Cafeteria El Horreya (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2392-0397; Midan Falaki, Downtown; h2pm-1am) A Cairo institution, and quite wholesome as it’s big, brightly lit and welcoming to women. No beer served on the side with the chessboards.

Cafeteria Stella (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Sharia Hoda Shaarawi & Sharia Talaat Harb; h1pm-midnight) Ceilings are higher than the room is wide, with tables crammed with a mix of characters from afternoon on. Look for the entrance behind a kiosk. Free nibbles are served with beer.

Cap d’Or (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2123-8957; Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat, Downtown; h4pm-2am) Quite run-down and lit with fluorescent bulbs. The staff are used to seeing foreigners, but usually male only.

Greek Club Cool beer on a terrace, and an air-kissing crowd talking about art, revolution and politics.

Cairo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2574-1479; 3 Sharia Saray Al Ezbekiyya, Downtown; h10am-3am) Walk through the grill restaurant to the 1st-floor bar. The sign is in Arabic only, blue letters on a red background.

Gemayka (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 16 Sharia Sherif, Downtown; h11am-2am) That’s Egyptian for ‘Jamaica’. In the pedestrian area around the stock exchange.

6Islamic Cairo

oFishawi’sCOFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Khan Al Khalili; h24hr, during Ramadan 5pm-3am)

Probably the oldest ahwa in the city, and certainly the most celebrated, Fishawi’s has been a great place to watch the world go by since 1773. It’s all clouded mirrors and copper tabletops that ooze old-world ambience. Although swamped by foreign tourists and equally wide-eyed out-of-town Egyptians, it is a regular ahwa, serving tea and shisha to stallholders and shoppers alike.

Prices tend to vary so confirm with your waiter.

Coffeeshop Al KhatounCOFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Al Khatoun, Islamic Cairo; h3pm-1am)

Tucked away in a quiet square behind Al Azhar, this modern outdoor ahwa is a great place to rest up after a walk, with tea and snacks and comfortable pillow-strewn benches. In the evenings it attracts an arty crowd – students from the Arabic Oud House school on the square and others.

3Entertainment

Cairo has a small, but growing, live-music scene, some good cultural performance spaces and a smattering of belly-dancing. Check out www.cairo360.com for listings. Not that you need to head inside – street life can be entertainment enough. Lots of Cairenes take an evening stroll along the Nile corniche Downtown or on Qasr El Nil Bridge. Pop-up tea kiosks provide refreshments.

Live Music & Performance

MakanTRADITIONAL MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2792-0878; http://egyptmusic.org; 1 Sharia Saad Zaghloul, Mounira; concert tickets LE40; hconcerts Tue & Wed; mSaad Zaghloul)

The Egyptian Centre for Culture & Art runs this intimate space dedicated to folk music. Don’t miss the traditional women’s zar, a sort of musical trance and healing ritual on Wednesday nights (doors open at 8.30pm). Tuesday evening has various performances of folk music, often an Egyptian-Sudanese jam session (doors open at 7.30pm).

To find the space, walk north on Sharia Mansour from Saad Zaghloul metro. Advance booking is a good idea due to limited space.

El Dammah TheatreTRADITIONAL MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2392-6768; www.el-mastaba.org; 30a Sharia Al Balaqsa, Abdeen, Downtown; tickets LE30; hdoors open 8pm, concerts 9.30pm)

Regular Thursday, Friday and Saturday shows by musical ensembles such as Rango, a trancey Sudanese folk group, and the El Tanboura Band, playing simsimiyya, a musical style from the Suez Canal region, as well as other folk bands from Egypt (check the website for listings).

Al Tannoura Egyptian Heritage Dance TroupeDANCE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2512 1735; Wikala of Al Ghouri, Sharia Mohammed Abduh, Islamic Cairo; show LE30; hperformances 7.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat)

Egypt’s only Sufi dance troupe – more raucous and colourful than the better-known white-clad Turkish dervishes – puts on a mesmerising performance three times weekly at the Wikala of Al Ghouri just off Sharia Al Azhar. It’s a great opportunity to see one of the medieval spaces in use; arrive about an hour ahead to secure a seat.

El Sawy Culture WheelLIVE MUSIC

(El Sakia; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-8881; www.culturewheel.com; Sharia 26th of July, Zamalek; h8am-midnight)

Egyptian rock and jazz bands play at this lively and very active complex of a dozen performance spaces and galleries tucked under a bridge overpass. There are also regular performances by the El Sakia Puppet Theatre (great for kids) and various seminar events. The main entrance is on the south side of 26th of July; there’s a nice outdoor cafe too.

Darb 1718ARTS CENTRE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2361 0511; www.darb1718.com; off Sharia Qasr Al Shama, Fustat; h11am-10pm Sat-Wed, from 4pm Fri)

This super-cool creative space aims to be a ‘trampoline’ for contemporary art, which gives an idea of the fun to be found here – there’s a regular program of concerts by Egyptian bands and movie screenings at night as well as a schedule of creative workshops. During the day there’s sometimes an art show on. For listings check out the website.

To reach Darb, walk south on Sharia Mar Girgis and follow the road as it bears left. At the end of the street, turn left on Sharia Qasr Al Shama and then turn right two streets on – Darb 1718 is at the end.

Cairo Opera HouseOPERA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2739-8144; www.cairoopera.org; Gezira Exhibition Grounds, Gezira; mOpera)

Performances by the Cairo Opera and the Cairo Symphony Orchestra are held in the 1200-seat Main Hall, where jacket and tie are required for men (travellers have been known to borrow them from staff). The Small Hall and Open Air Theatre are casual.

Cairo Jazz ClubJAZZ

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-6880-4764; www.cairojazzclub.com; 197 Sharia 26th of July, Agouza; h9pm-3am)

The Cairo Jazz Club has kept up with the beat, and it has one of the city’s liveliest stages, with modern Egyptian folk, electronica, fusion and more, seven nights a week, usually starting around 10pm. You must book a table ahead (online is easiest), and no one under 25 is admitted.

Cairo Puppet TheatrePUPPET THEATRE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591 0954; Sharia Masrah Al Ara’is, Downtown, behind Ezbekiyya Gardens; adult/child LE20/15; hperformances usually 6.30pm Thu-Fri; mAtaba)

Keeping Cairene kids entertained since 1959, this is the Arab world’s biggest puppet theatre. Shows are in Arabic but are colourful and animated enough to entertain all ages. It’s a bit tricky to locate; take the fenced-in footpath that runs around the south of Ezbekiyya Gardens, turn left at the mosque and duck down the first alleyway on your left.

Belly Dancing

If you see only one belly dancer in your life, it had better be in Cairo, the art form’s true home. The best dancers perform at Cairo’s five-star hotels, usually to an adoring crowd of wealthy Gulf Arabs. Shows typically begin around 10pm, although the star might not take to the stage until midnight or later. Admission is steep. There’s either a show-plus-meal fee (with drinks extra) or a per person minimum charge. At the very top venues, prepare for the evening to cost you more than LE1000. A less-overpriced alternative is the Nile-boat evening cruise belly dancing shows. Be aware that the crooning lounge-singer-style warm up acts on these boats can be hilariously dire. Cairo’s divas are often getting in tiffs with their host hotels or their managers, so their venues may change.

At the other end of the scale, you can watch a less nuanced expression of the art form at several clubs around Sharia Alfy in Downtown Cairo. They’re seedy (prostitution is definitely a sideline), the mics are set on the highest reverb, and most of the dancers have the grace of amateur wrestlers. But it can be fun, especially if you can maintain enough of a buzz to join in the dancing onstage (a perk if you shower the dancer and the band with enough LE5 notes), but not so fun if you fall for the myriad overcharging tactics, including beer prices being hiked up and fees for unordered snacks and even napkins.

Bab El NilCABARET

(%02-2461-9494; www.fairmont.com/nile-city-cairo/dining/bab-el-nil; Nile City Towers, 2005b Corniche El Nil, Fairmont Nile City Hotel; minimum per person LE1000-1200; hshows 10pm-1am)

The Fairmont Nile City’s restaurant is one of the classier venues to take in a belly dancing show with long-time Cairo favourite Soreya regularly performing here. Unlike many other joints, there’s no menu-plus-show price, and instead a minimum charge for your drinks and dinner (the more expensive minimum charge is for the seats closer to the stage).

Nile MaximCABARET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2738-8888, 012-2241-9500; www.maximrestaurants.com; Sharia Saray Al Gezira, Zamalek; show & dinner LE480-730; hsailings at 8.30pm & 10.30pm)

The best of the Nile cruisers, run by the Marriott, is a relatively economical way to see a big-name belly-dancing star such as Randa or Farah, along with a choice of à la carte menu options (drinks not included). Go for the later sailing, as that show tends to have less crooning singer warm-up and more actual belly dancing. Opposite Cairo Marriott Hotel.

ShahrazadCABARET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 1 Sharia Alfy, Downtown; incl 2 drinks LE150; h10pm-2am)

Worth visiting for the gorgeous interior alone, this old-school hall got a makeover in recent years, and its Orientalist fantasia, complete with red-velvet drapes, feels substantially less seedy than other Downtown dives. This doesn’t necessarily inspire a classier air in the patrons, however. Occasionally the venue hosts a DJ night for an artier crowd.

Haroun El Rashid NightclubCABARET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-8000; www.ihg.com; Corniche El Nil, 3rd fl, Semiramis InterContinental, Garden City; show incl dinner from LE1140; h11pm-4am)

This five-star club is all red curtains and white marquee lights. Top seats, at tables nearest the stage go for LE1900 (drinks not included), with the price tag getting cheaper the further back you sit. The eye-watering cost is because this is where the famous Dina undulates, but – handy hint – Dina only ever dances on Thursday nights.

Cultural Centres

Netherlands-Flemish InstituteARTS CENTRE

(NVIC; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2738-2520; www.nvic.leidenuniv.nl; 1 Sharia Mahmoud Azmy, Zamalek; hweekly film & lecture series Sep-May)

This excellent cultural centre hosts Sunday evening films (7.30pm), ranging from Dutch art-house features to the latest works by young Egyptian directors (all with English subtitles), plus weekly lectures on Thursdays (6pm), often in English, and regular exhibitions.

Istituto Italiano Di CulturaARTS CENTRE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-8791; www.iiccairo.esteri.it; 3 Sharia Sheikh Al Marsafy, Zamalek; hlibrary 10am-4pm Sun, Tue & Thu)

One of Cairo’s most active cultural centres, the Italian institute hosts a busy program of art house films plus lectures (sometimes in English) and art exhibitions, and has a library.

Goethe InstitutARTS CENTRE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2575-9877; www.goethe.de; 5 Sharia Al Bustan, Downtown; hlibrary 1-7pm Sun-Wed)

Seminars and lectures in German on Egyptology and other topics, plus visiting music groups, art exhibitions and film screenings. The library has more than 15,000 (mainly German) titles.

7Shopping

Faced with the mountains of chintzy souvenirs and over-eager hustlers trying to sell them to you over endless glasses of tea, it’s tempting to keep your wallet firmly shut in Cairo. But then you’d be missing out on some of Egypt’s most beautiful treasures. The trick is knowing where to look.

7Downtown

oOum El DouniaARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2393-8273; 1st fl, 3 Sharia Talaat Harb; h10am-9pm)

At a great central location, Oum El Dounia sells an exceptionally tasteful and good-value selection of locally made crafts. These include glassware, ceramics, jewellery, cotton clothes made in Akhmim, and other interesting trinkets. Illustrated postcards by cartoonist Golo make a nice change. One room is dedicated to books on Egypt in French.

oAmerican University in Cairo BookshopBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2797-5929; www.aucpress.com; Sharia Sheikh Rihan; h10am-6pm Sat-Thu; mSadat)

The best English-language bookshop in Egypt, with a huge selection of material on the politics, sociology and history of Cairo, Egypt and the wider Middle East, as well as other more general non-fiction titles. There are plenty of guidebooks and maps, and a decent fiction section. This is also a great place to find titles by Arab writers in translation.

You need to show your passport (or another kind of ID) to gain entry.

Lehnert & LandrockBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2392-7606; www.lehnertandlandrock.net; 44 Sharia Sherif; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Old maps, books about Cairo and Egypt (some secondhand), great vintage postcards and reprints of wonderful old photographs.

DrinkiesDRINKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %19930; 41 Sharia Talaat Harb; h11am-midnight)

Spiffy modern booze sellers; no need to sneak behind a curtain, and even offers delivery. A small Stella is LE12, a large Sakara is LE17. There’s another Downtown branch (MAP; h11am-midnight) on Sharia Mahmoud Bassouni.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Local Markets

Souq Al Gomaa (Friday Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Southern Cemetery; h6am-noon Fri) South of the Citadel, this sprawling weekly market is all the craziness of a medieval bazaar in a modern setting. Under a highway flyover, expect bicycles, live donkeys and broken telephones. Savvy pickers can find some funky objects and vintage clothes. Go before 10am to avoid the crush of people. Tell the taxi driver ‘Khalifa’, the name of the neighbourhood.

Wikalat Al Balah (Souq Bulaq; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia 26th of July, Bulaq; h8am-6pm) This street market specialises in secondhand clothing, mostly well organised, clean and with marked prices (especially on Sharia Al Wabur Al Fransawi). It starts beside the Corniche, under the 26th of July overpass.

Souq Bab Al Luq (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Falaki, Downtown; h7am-7pm) Big indoor neighbourhood market with produce and meat; surrounding shops sell dry goods.

7Coptic Cairo

Souq Al FustatMARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Anwar, Fustat; h10am-7pm)

It’s a shame more travellers don’t venture to this modern market-complex after their Coptic Cairo visit as there are some interesting boutiques here – nearly all focused on modern Egyptian handicrafts. There are funky interpretations of Bedouin embroidery at Bidouin Handmade, embroideries and recycled crafts at the Association for the Protection of the Environment shop and a branch of Abd El Zaher.

7Zamalek & Doqqi

Fair Trade EgyptARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-5123; 1st fl, 27 Sharia Yehia Ibrahim; h10am-8pm) S

Crafts sold here are produced in income-generating projects throughout the country. Items for sale include Bedouin rugs, hand-woven cotton, pottery from Al Fayoum and beaded jewellery from Aswan. The cotton bedspreads and shawls are particularly lovely, and prices are very reasonable.

L’Oiseau du NilGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Asfour El Nil; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-1458; 23a Sharia Ismail Mohammed; h11am-10pm Sat-Thu)

A little treasure trove with original gifts made in Egypt, great cotton clothing, funky bags and accessories, and wonderful Egyptian-cotton bed linen by Malaika.

Azza FahmyJEWELLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %010-6664-2365; www.azzafahmy.com; 15c Sharia Dr Taha Hussein, cnr of Sharia Marashly; h10am-10pm)

World-renowned contemporary jeweller inspired by Islamic and Pharaonic designs. Azza Fahmy also organises design workshops (p92) to make fabulous jewellery.

NomadARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-1917; www.nomadgallery.net; 1st fl, 14 Sharia Saray Al Gezira; h9am-8pm)

Specialists in jewellery and traditional Bedouin crafts and costumes. Items include appliqué tablecloths and cushion covers, dresses made in the oases, woven baskets, silk slippers and chunky silver jewellery. To find it, go past the Egyptian Water Works office to the 1st floor and ring the bell. There is a smaller branch in the Cairo Marriott.

Sami AminFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2738-1837; www.sami-amin.com; 15a Sharia Mansour Mohammed; h10.30am-10pm Mon-Sat)

Cool brass-and-enamel jewellery as well as various homewares including chunky metal photo and mirror frames. Just down the street, at number 13, are leather bags, belts and other accessories, many imprinted with tribal patterns, and all very well priced.

DiwanBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-2578; www.diwanegypt.com; 159 Sharia 26th of July; h9am-11.30pm)

Fabulous; English, French and German titles, from novels to travel guides to coffee-table books. It also has a kids’ section, plenty of non-fiction titles about Egypt and Arabic writers in translation, and a small cafe.

Nevin AltmannCLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-5431; www.nevinaltmann.com; 3 Sharia Hassan Assem; h10am-10pm)

Delightful intricately embroidered accessories, on cotton and linen, all made in different regions in Egypt. Look out for the beautiful fabric dolls, too, which make great gifts.

Al QahiraHOMEWARES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %011-1313-3932; www.facebook.com/Alqahiragallery; 1st fl, 6 Sharia Bahgat Ali; hnoon-9pm)

Al Qahira sells well-made Egyptian crafts, often with a little quirky element. Brilliant jewellery by Suzanne El Masry, embroidered jewellery, fabrics printed with vintage photos of movie stars and some fun homewares.

Wady Craft ShopARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-4350; 5 Sharia Michel Lutfallah; h10am-5pm Mon, Tue & Fri, 10am-10pm Wed, Thu & Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) S

This charity store run by the Anglican church sells work done by refugee organisations and disadvantaged families. There are plenty of kitchen linens and wooden inlay products but the traditional wooden children’s toy trains, planes, trucks and block-pyramids are the real standouts. Despite the address (the main gate to the church complex), the shop’s entrance is located on Sharia Zakaria Rizk.

Mix & MatchCLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 11 Sharia Hassan Sabry; h10am-10pm)

Well made and locally designed, these separates for women in wool, silk and cotton are reasonably priced and often feature subtle Middle Eastern details.

NagadaCLOTHING, CERAMICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3748-6663; www.nagada.net; 13 Sharia Refa’a, Doqqi; h10am-6.30pm)

High-quality handwoven, colour-saturated silks, cottons and linens are the mainstay of this delightful shop. Buy by the yard, or in boxy, drapey women’s and men’s apparel. There’s also very pretty pottery from Al Fayoum.

LoftHOMEWARES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2736-6931; www.loftegypt.com; 1st fl, 12 Sharia Sayyed Al Bakry; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)

In a rambling apartment, this eclectic store stocks local regional curiosities from small brass candlesticks to antique divans, as well as large painted tabletop trays as seen in chic restaurants around town.

DrinkiesDRINKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %19330; 157 Sharia 26th of July; h10am-midnight)

Cold beer, wine and more to take away.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Antiques Roadshow: Cairo Edition

Evidence of Cairo’s glam years can be found in dusty warehouses and glittery shops. These are some of the best.

Ahmed El Dabba & Sons (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02-2590-7823; 5 Sikket Al Badistan, Islamic Cairo; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) The most respected antiques dealer in Khan Al Khalili, filled with Louis XV furniture, jewellery and snuff boxes.

Amgad Naguib (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %012-8668-0908; off Sharia Mahmoud Bassiouni, Downtown; hby appointment) Make an appointment to visit Amgad’s dusty treasure house Downtown. Along with vintage sunglasses, movie posters and groovy glass, you get some great stories.

Kerop (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 116 Mohammed Farid, Downtown; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Vintage Cairo photos, from original plates, in a time-warp office.

King Saleh Bazaar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 80 Sharia Al Muizz Li Din Allah, Islamic Cairo; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Immediately south of the Madrassa & Mausoleum of Qalaun. The more you look through the dust, the more pops out.

Nostalgia (MAP GOOGLE MAP; 6 Sharia Zakaria Rizk, Zamalek; h10am-6pm) From framed Arabic ad prints to escargot forks.

L’Orientaliste (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2575 3418; 15 Sharia Qasr El Nil, Downtown; h10am-8pm) Find rare books on Egypt and the Middle East, as well as lithographs, maps and engravings.

7Islamic Cairo

Abd Al Rahman HarrazFOOD

(%2512-6349; 1 Midan Bab Al Khalq; h10am-10pm)

Established in 1885, this is one of the most esteemed spice traders in Cairo, with a brisk business in medicinal herbs as well (upstairs, herbalists diagnose and prescribe). There’s no English sign: look for dioramas of Egyptian village life in the corner shop windows. It’s about 450m west of Bab Zuweila.

Khan Misr ToulounARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2365-2227; Midan Ibn Tulun; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

This shop opposite the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is stacked with a desirable jumble of reasonably priced crafts, wooden chests, jewellery, pottery, puppets and scarves.

It closes for vacation in August and sometimes in July too, so if you’re here in summer it’s best to ring and check it’s open before trooping out here.

Abd El ZaherSTATIONERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; https://abdelzahers.com; 31 Sharia Mohammed Abduh, Islamic Cairo; h9am-11pm)

Cairo’s last working bookbinder also makes beautiful leather- and oil-paper-bound blank books, photo albums and diaries. Gold monogramming is included in the prices, which are heartbreakingly low considering the work that goes into them. Getting your own books bound starts around LE100 and takes a few days.

AtlasCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2591-8833; Sikket Al Badistan, Islamic Cairo; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)

In business since 1948, the Atlas family specialises in silk moiré kaftans and slippers. You can also order the fabric by the yard, or in custom-tailored clothing.

Mahmoud Abd El GhaffarFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2589-7443; 73 Sharia Gawhar Al Qaid, Islamic Cairo; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat)

One of the best dealers in belly-dancing outfits in the city. Look for the entrance at the end of a short lane just off the main street, and walk upstairs where the really good stuff is.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Cairo Crafts: Where to Shop

These are the best districts for certain goods.

Gold and silver Head to the gold district on the west end of Khan Al Khalili.

Backgammon and shisha pipes Shops line Sharia Al Muizz Li Din Allah around Bein Al Qasreen. Another set of shisha dealers are just east and west of Bab Zuweila.

Appliqué Best buys are at the Tentmakers Market, south of Bab Zuweila.

Carpets The carpet bazaar south of the Mosque-Madrassa of Al Ghouri has imports; flat-weave Bedouin rugs are the only local style.

Spices Most dealers in the Khan are more trouble than they’re worth. Try Abd Al Rahman Harraz or shops around Midan Falaki.

Perfume In addition to the southwest corner of Khan Al Khalili, try shops around Midan Falaki.

Inlay Artisans in Darb Al Ahmar sell from out of their workshops.

Muski glass Available everywhere, but interesting to see the glassblowing studios in the district north of Bab Al Futuh.

7Out of the Centre

Citystars CentreMALL

(%2480-0500; www.citystars-heliopolis.com.eg; Sharia Omar Ibn Khattab, Nasr City; h11am-1am)

Cairo’s most lavish mall is the current landing spot for every new international chain, from Starbucks to Zara. There’s a kids’ theme park and a big cinema. It’s about 12km east of Downtown. Just hop in a taxi and say, ‘Citystars’.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Despite a rise in petty crime following the 2011 revolution, Cairo is still a pretty safe city, with crime rates likely much lower than where you’re visiting from.

A For female visitors, sexual harassment continues to be a problem.

A Pickpockets and bag-snatchers are rare but do sometimes operate in crowded spots such as Khan Al Khalili, the metro and buses.

A Touts operate around Midan Tahrir and Midan Talaat Harb. Be wary of anyone who approaches you in these areas.

A If anything does get stolen, go straight to the tourist police rather than the normal police.

Bogus Tours

Cairo’s worst scams are associated with tours. Rather than making arrangements in Cairo, you are almost always better off booking tours in the place you’ll be taking them. Stick with reputable agencies. Even your hotel is not a good place to book anything except typical day trips from Cairo. Never book with a random office Downtown (many are fronts) or with the help of someone you meet on the street.

Street Hassle

Contrary to media reports, women are generally safe walking alone in Cairo. Although minor harassment is rampant, actual physical assault remains much rarer than in many European or ‘western’ countries. After about 11pm, however, solo women travellers will probably feel more comfortable buddying-up while strolling the streets, and at all times avoid the cheapest buses (notorious for frottage, to female commuters’ chagrin) and endeavour to steer clear of large groups of aimless men: political demonstrations and any kind of football-related celebration tend to bring out the testosterone. Also be a bit wary of men (or boys) who want to escort you across a street – it’s a prime groping opportunity. Women should always sit in the back seat in Cairo’s taxis. If you’d like to book a female cabbie, call Nour Gaber.

EMERGENCY

Main Tourist Police Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %126, 2395-9116; Sharia Adly, Downtown; h9am-2pm) On the 1st floor of a building in the alley just left of the main tourist office in Downtown. Come here first for minor emergencies, including theft.

There are various other offices scattered around the city:

Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %126; Midan Al Hussein, Islamic Cairo; h9am-5pm) Near Khan Al Khalili.

Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %126; Citadel; h9am-5pm) Within the Citadel.

Tourist Police (%126; Pyramids Rd, Giza; h8am-5pm) Across from the Mena House Hotel.

Ambulance	%123
Fire	%180
Police	%122

MEDICAL SERVICES

Many of Cairo’s hospitals suffer from antiquated equipment and a cavalier attitude to hygiene, but there are several exceptions. Your embassy should be able to recommend doctors and hospitals.

As Salam International Hospital (%2524-0250, emergency 19885; www.assih.com; Corniche El Nil, Ma’adi; h24hr)

Badran Hospital (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3337-8823; 3 Sharia Al Ahrar, Doqqi; h24hr) Just northwest of 6th of October Bridge in Doqqi.

These pharmacies operate 24 hours, have English-speaking staff and will deliver to your hotel.

Al Ezaby Pharmacy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %19600; 46 Sharia Bahgat Ali, Zamalek; h24hr) Other branches all over Cairo.

Delmar Pharmacy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2575-1052; Sharia 26th of July, Downtown; h24hr)

Misr Pharmacy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %19110; 44 Sharia Talaat Harb, Downtown; h24hr) Modern pharmacy; other branches throughout the city. Also well-stocked with skin care products, with plenty of hard-to-find-elsewhere international brands.

New Victoria Pharmacy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2735-1628; 6 Sharia Brazil, Zamalek; h24hr)

MONEY

Hotel bank branches can change cash, but rates are slightly better at independent exchange bureaux, of which there are several along Sharia Adly in Downtown and on Sharia 26th of July in Zamalek. These tend to be open from 10am to 8pm Saturday to Thursday. ATMs are numerous, except in Islamic Cairo – the most convenient machine here is below El Hussein hotel in Khan Al Khalili.

TOILETS

Public toilets in Cairo are a rarity. Most large museums and monuments have passable facilities. You can stop in to fast-food places like Gad where the toilets usually have an attendant; tip LE2. In Khan Al Khalili, head for the Khan El Khalili Restaurant & Mahfouz Coffee Shop.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Main Tourist Office (Ministry of Tourism; MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2391-3454; 5 Sharia Adly, Downtown; h9am-6pm)

Tourist Information Office (Ramses Train Station, Midan Ramses, Downtown; h9am-7pm) Inside the train station. The most helpful office.

Tourist Information Office (%3383-8823; Pyramids Rd, Giza; h8.30am-5pm) Opposite Mena House Hotel, before the Pyramids’ main entrance gate

VISA EXTENSIONS

All visa business (extensions plus multiple-entry stamps) is carried out at the Mogamma (Passport Office; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mogamma Bldg, Midan Tahrir; h8am-1.30pm Sat-Wed).

For visa extensions, head to the 1st floor, and turn right. Pick up a form from the police officers at the table in the hallway, fill it in and return it to the police officers to be signed. Take the form (plus two passport photos and two copies of your passport’s visa and information pages) to window 12. Then collect stamps from window 43 and file all back at window 12. Next-day pickup is at window 38.

Convert your single-entry visa into a multiple-entry visa (LE61) at the well-signed window on the opposite side the hall.

If your hotel is in Giza (this includes Doqqi), you will need to go to the Agouza Passport Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %3338-4226; El Shorta Tower, Sharia Nawal; h8am-1.30pm Sat-Wed) for your visa extension or multiple-entry stamp. Enter at the side entrance of the police station and head to window 4 on the 2nd floor.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Cairo International Airport is 20km northeast of the city centre. There are ATMs in all terminal arrival halls.

Terminal 1 Services most international airlines. The terminal is three buildings, all within view of each other, though only arrivals halls 1 and 3 receive commercial flights.

Terminal 3 EgyptAir’s hub for both international and domestic flights, and also home to all services for other Star Alliance international airlines. The terminal is 2km south of T1.

Terminal 2 Partially reopened after a long renovation and now servicing several international airlines, with more set to move there in the future.

A free shuttle (service every 30 minutes) connects the terminals.

BUS

Cairo Gateway Bus Station

The main bus station is Cairo Gateway (Turgoman Garage; Sharia Al Gisr, Bulaq; mOrabi), 400m west of the Orabi metro stop – or pay LE5 or so for a taxi from Tahrir or Sharia Talaat Harb.

Tickets are sold at different windows according to company and destination.

East Delta Travel Co (%2419-8533; Cairo Gateway, Sharia Al Gisr, Bulaq), for Suez and Sinai, and Super Jet (%02-3572-5032, 2290-9017; Cairo Gateway, Sharia Al Gisr, Bulaq), for Hurghada, Luxor and Sharm El Sheikh, are to the right.

West & Mid Delta Bus Co (%2432-0049; http://westmidbus-eg.com; Cairo Gateway, Sharia Al Gisr, Bulaq), for Alexandria, Marsa Matruh and Siwa, and Upper Egypt Travel Co (%2576-0261; Cairo Gateway, Sharia Al Gisr, Bulaq), for Western Desert oases and Luxor, are to the left. (Note that the train is better for Alexandria and Luxor.)

It is advisable to book most tickets in advance, particularly for popular routes such as Sinai, Alexandria and Marsa Matruh in summer.

Student discounts are not offered on bus tickets.

There are also bus services to Israel and Jordan.

Because of security issues, foreign travellers are not allowed to take the direct road from Cairo to Taba, which cuts through the middle of the Sinai Peninsula. Instead, if they’re planning to travel to Taba or Nuweiba, they must take the longer south Sinai coastal route via Al Tor to Sharm El Sheikh and Dahab where they can transfer onto the Nuweiba–Taba bus.

This means that the East Delta Travel Co was not issuing tickets along the direct Cairo–Taba route to any foreigners at the time of research. You can check for updates on the situation at its booth at Cairo Gateway.

Go Bus Station

Go Bus (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %19567; www.gobus-eg.com; Midan Abdel Moniem Riad, Downtown) runs regular services to Alexandria, Dahab, El Gouna, Hurghada, Luxor, Marsa Alam, Marsa Matruh, Qena and Sharm El Sheikh. Tickets – and even specific seats – can be booked online.

Buses come in a baffling array of service classes with the higher-priced ‘Elite’ buses offering bigger seats, wi-fi and a free snack. The ‘Deluxe’ services are pretty much on par with Super Jet and East Delta buses, though Go Bus tend to have shorter journey times (particularly on the Sinai routes) as it gets waved through most of the security checkpoints.

Sample ticket prices:

Dahab Economic/Deluxe/Elite LE145/175/330

Hurghada Economic/Deluxe/Elite LE115/140/275

Sharm El Sheikh Economic/Deluxe/Elite LE125/140/275

Services depart/arrive from the Tahrir office on Midan Abdel Moniem Riad (behind the Egyptian Museum, opposite the Ramses Hilton).

Abbassiyya Bus Station

Buses from Taba (which foreigners can’t take) and, sometimes, from St Katherine’s still terminate at Abbassiyya Bus Terminal (Sinai Station; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Ramses, Abbassiyya; mAbbassiyya), 4km northeast of Ramses Train Station; take the nearby metro to the centre.

Abboud Bus Station

Abboud Bus Terminal (Khazindar; Sharia Al Tir’a Al Boulaqia, Shubra; mMezallat) Services to the Delta and Wadi Natrun. It’s 5km north of Ramses Train Station – walk east from Mezallat metro, about 800m.

BUSES FROM CAIRO GATEWAY

Destination	Company	Price	Duration	Times
Alexandria	West & Mid Delta	LE55	3hr	hourly 5am-12.05am
Al Kharga	Upper Egypt Travel	LE150	8-10hr	9.30pm & 10.30pm
Al Quseir	Upper Egypt Travel	LE120	10hr	1.30pm, 6.30pm & 11pm
Bahariya (Bawiti)	Upper Egypt Travel	LE100	4-5hr	7.30am & 6pm
Dahab	East Delta	LE140	9hr	8am, 1.30pm, 7.30pm & 11pm
Dakhla	Upper Egypt Travel	LE120	8-10hr	7.30am & 6pm
Farafra	Upper Egypt Travel	LE120	8-10hr	7.30am & 6pm
Hurghada	Super Jet	LE120	6hr	7.30am, 12.30pm & 11pm
	Upper Egypt Travel	LE120	6-7hr	1.30pm, 6.30pm & midnight
Ismailia	East Delta	LE25	4hr	hourly 6.30am-7.30pm
Luxor	Super Jet	LE150	11hr	1.30pm, 5.30pm & 11.30pm
	Upper Egypt Travel	LE150	11hr	9pm
Marsa Matruh	West & Mid Delta	LE105	5hr	15 services 6.30am-midnight
Port Said	East Delta	LE40	4hr	hourly 6.30am–9.30pm
Sharm El Sheikh	East Delta	LE120	7hr	6.30am, 8am, 1.30pm, 4.30pm, 7.30pm, 11pm & 1am
	Super Jet	LE125	7hr	7.30am, 1.15pm, 6.15pm & 11.30pm
Siwa	West & Mid Delta	LE150	11hr	11.45pm Sat, Mon & Thu
St Katherine	East Delta	LE90	7hr	11am
Suez	East Delta	LE25	2hr	hourly 6.30am-7.30pm
Taba & Nuweiba	East Delta	LE110	8hr	9.30am & 12.45pm (tourists not allowed on this route)

MICROBUS & SERVEES

You can get a seat in a microbus or servees (shared taxi) to most destinations, including Alexandria, destinations in the Delta, and Suez (MAP GOOGLE MAP), from the blocks between Ramses Station and Midan Ulali (MAP GOOGLE MAP).

For Al Fayoum and the western oases, head to Moneib, on Sharia El Nil in Giza, under the ring road overpass (take a taxi or walk 800m east from the Sakkiat Mekki metro stop). Midan Al Remaya in Giza, near the Pyramids, is another starting point for Al Fayoum and western Delta towns; hop on a microbus from the Giza metro station.

TRAIN

Trains to Alexandria, Upper Egypt and major towns in the Delta are the most efficient and comfortable.

Train travel to smaller towns is recommended for rail fans only, as it’s often quite slow and scruffy.

Ramses Station is Cairo’s main train station. It has a left luggage office, a post office, ATMs and a helpful information office with English-speakers on hand.

Secondary stations include Giza (Mahattat Giza; Pyramids Rd, Giza; mGiza), where all services to Upper Egypt also stop: Giza Suburban, next to the metro stop of the same name, for Al Fayoum; and Ain Shams, in the northeast part of the city, for Suez.

For 1st- and 2nd-class air-con services, visit the Egyptian National Railways website (https://enr.gov.eg), where you can check schedules and purchase tickets for trains on the main Alexandria–Aswan line. Purchasing tickets at Ramses Station requires getting to the right set of windows for your destination and knowing the time and/or train number you want. Confirm at the information office, where the clerk can write your preference in Arabic to show the ticket seller.

To Alexandria

There are two classes of trains. Special class makes fewer stops than the Spanish ones.

In both, a first class (ula) ticket gets you a roomier assigned seat and usually a much cleaner bathroom.

To Luxor & Aswan

Tourists used to be restricted to travelling on the privately run sleeper train to Luxor and Aswan but are now allowed to travel on any of the normal, much cheaper seater-only day and night services. If you do encounter a desk clerk who does not want to sell you a ticket, you can always purchase a ticket on board from the conductor, for a small additional fee, or in advance online.

There are two different categories of seater trains (Spanish, and the more expensive Special), which both offer 1st- and 2nd-class air-con seating. There is no difference in journey time between them, despite the jump in ticket price, so your choice mainly comes down to which departure time you prefer. The Special service is just newer rolling stock with slightly bigger seats. It’s also supposed to offer wi-fi but (in reality) doesn’t. The 8am departure is the most scenic option.

MAJOR TRAINS FROM CAIRO

Prices are for a 1st-class air-con seat, unless otherwise noted.

Destination	Price	Duration	Times
Alexandria (direct)	LE70-100	2½hr	8am, 9am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm, 6pm, 7pm & 10.30pm
Alexandria (stopping)	LE50	3-3½hr	6am, 8.10am, 10am, noon, 1pm, 2.20pm, 3.10pm, 4pm, 5.10pm, 8.15pm & 9pm
Ismailia	LE25 (2nd class)	3hr	6.15am, 1.45pm, 2.40pm, 5.45pm & 7.50pm
Luxor/Aswan (Spanish)	LE109/135	10½hr/14hr	noon, 7pm, 8pm & 10pm
Luxor/Aswan (Special)	LE200/240	10½hr/14hr	8am, 10am, 5.30pm, 9pm & 11pm
Luxor/Aswan (Watania Sleeper)	2-/1-berth cabin US$80/110	9½hr/13hr	Train 84: 8pm (Giza-only departure); Train 86: 8.15pm (Ramses) & 8.30pm (Giza)
Marsa Matruh (Watania Sleeper)	US$43	7hr	11.30pm Sat, Mon & Wed mid-Jun–mid-Sep
Port Said	LE30 (2nd class)	4hr	6.15am, 1.45pm & 7.50pm
Tanta	LE30-45	1-1½hr	6am, 8.10am, 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 2.20pm, 3.10pm, 4pm, 5.10pm, 6pm, 8.15pm, 9pm & 10.30pm
Zagazig	LE15 (2nd class)	1½hr	5.15am, 6.15am, 1pm, 1.45pm, 3.40pm, 7.50pm & 10pm

Watania Sleeper Train to Luxor & Aswan

The overnight Wagon-Lits service to Luxor and Aswan is operated by a private company, Watania. You can purchase tickets at its office in Ramses Station, which can take credit cards (for a surcharge), as well as cash in euros, dollars or Egyptian pounds. Tickets can also be purchased at Giza Station, in the trailer to the right of the entrance, as well as online.

Book before 6pm for the same day, but in high season (October to April) book several days in advance.

To Marsa Matrah

Watania runs a train to the Mediterranean coast three times a week during the summer season.

To Suez Canal Region

Delays on this route are common; going by bus is more efficient. If you’re determined to travel by train, the best option is to Ismailia.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Airport Pick-up Services

For a smooth arrival, arrange an airport pick-up through your hotel or book a prearranged pick-up online with Cairo Airport Travel (%19970; www.cairoshuttlebus.com; Terminals 1 & 3, Cairo International Airport; h24hr). There are desks at Terminal 1, Arrivals 1, and Terminal 3 (though the service can pick you up from anywhere in the airport); it charges LE220 per car.

Bus

Don’t believe anyone who tells you there is no bus to the city centre. Air-con buses (MAP) 400 and 500 (LE2.50, plus LE2 per large luggage item, one to two hours) run at 20-minute intervals between Midan Abdel Moniem Riad (behind the Egyptian Museum) in central Cairo and the airport bus station. Bus 400 runs 24 hours, while 500 services finish at 10pm. Be aware that these buses are a crowded and not-particularly-comfortable option. There was talk of introducing a modern, comfortable coach-style bus service (costing LE5) between Downtown and the airport on our last visit, though there was no confirmed starting date.

A free shuttle connects air terminals and the airport bus station. At Terminal 1, Arrivals 1, the shuttle stops in the first lane of the car park, a little to your right as you come out of the doors. In Terminal 1, Arrivals 3, bear left outside – the shuttle stops in the outer lane, under the skybridge to the Air Mall. The shuttle drops you across the road from the bus complex just after a right turn at the petrol station. In Terminal 3, bear right out the doors, to the far end of the outer lane. From here, the shuttle drives straight into the bus terminal.

Taxi

Metered taxis are rarely seen at Cairo Airport (and if you do find one, they’re not going to put the meter on), so you’ll need to negotiate with one of the mob of drivers clustered around the door when you exit. Most drivers charge LE120 to Downtown, though many will start out by quoting LE150. It’s better to walk away a bit before starting negotiations, as it can sometimes bring the price down. Triple-check the agreed fare, as there is an irritating tendency for drivers to nod at what you say and claim a higher fare later. (Heading to the airport from the centre, you can easily get a metered taxi; you’ll have to pay LE5 to enter the airport grounds.)

In the arrivals halls, there are also car desks offering airport ‘limo service’ transfers into the central city for around LE175 to LE200.

In the traffic-free early hours of the morning, the journey to central Cairo takes 20 minutes. At busier times of the day it can take more than an hour.

BUS

Cairo is thoroughly served by a network of lumbering sardine-cans-on-wheels and smaller shuttle-size minibuses (on which, theoretically, there’s no standing allowed), but visitors will find only a few uses for them: they’re good for slow but cheap trips to the Pyramids or from the airport, but elsewhere you can travel more efficiently and comfortably by metro and/or taxi. Signs are in Arabic only, so you’ll have to know your numerals. There is no known map of any of the city’s bus routes. Just hop on and pay the conductor when he comes around selling tickets, which cost between LE1.50 and LE2.50 depending on distance and whether there’s air-con (mint-green buses sometimes have it, as do the big white CTA buses). New, more comfortable air-con buses (LE5) started to ply some longer routes from the centre to the suburbs in 2017.

Major bus hubs are Midan Abdel Moniem Riad (MAP), behind the Egyptian Museum, and Midan Ataba.

CAR

Driving in Cairo can’t be recommended – not only is it harrowing, but you’re only contributing to the hideously clogged streets. Lane markings are ignored, indicators are rarely used and traffic lights are discretionary unless enforced by a police officer. At night some drivers use their headlights exclusively for flashing oncoming vehicles.

But Cairo drivers do have road rules: they look out for each other and are tolerant of driving that elsewhere might provoke road rage. Things only go awry when an inexperienced driver – like an international visitor, perhaps – is thrown into the mix.

METRO

The metro (www.cairometro.gov.eg) is blissfully efficient, inexpensive and, outside rush hours (7am to 9am and 3pm to 6pm), not too crowded. Given the impossible car traffic in Cairo, if you can make even a portion of your journey on the metro, you’ll save time and aggravation.

Metro stations have signs with a big red ‘M’ in a blue star. Tickets cost LE2 to any stop; keep yours handy to feed into the turnstile (or, more likely, hand in to the turnstile attendant) on the way out. Trains run every five minutes or so from around 6am until 11.30pm.

Two carriages in the centre of each train are reserved for women. Look for the blue ‘Ladies’ signs on the platform marking where you should stand.

Metro Lines

Line 1 Stretches 43km along the east bank of the Nile via Downtown, Coptic Cairo and Ma’adi.

Line 2 Crosses to the west bank, passing through Downtown and across Gezira en route.

Line 3 Long-awaited Line 3 has opened partially from Ataba in Downtown to Al Ahram station in Heliopolis, and eventually will run west to the airport and east to Imbaba via Zamalek.

Useful Metro Stations

Ataba Convenient for Downtown.

Bab Al Shaaria Closest to Islamic Cairo, on the north side.

Opera By the Cairo Opera House, closest to Zamalek.

Giza Next to Giza train station, handy for buses to the Pyramids.

Mar Girgis In the middle of Coptic Cairo.

Mohammed Naguib Close to Abdeen Palace.

Al Shohadaa Beneath Midan Ramses and Ramses Railway Station.

Nasser Sharia 26th of July and Sharia Ramses; closest to Downtown nightlife.

Sadat Beneath Midan Tahrir, close to the Egyptian Museum.

MICROBUS

Cairenes use the private microbus (meekrobas) – a small van with 12 or so seats – as much as the public bus. No destinations are marked, which can make them hard to use at first. But they’re quite useful for major routes: from the Giza metro to the main gate of the Pyramids and to Midan Al Remaya (for long-distance microbuses); and from Midan Ataba to Sharia Sayyida Aisha (MAP GOOGLE MAP) for the Citadel, and to Midan Al Hussein (MAP GOOGLE MAP) for Islamic Cairo.

Locals use coded hand gestures to communicate their destination to passing microbuses; if the van has a free seat, it will stop. Fares vary according to distance, from LE2 to LE5, paid after you take your seat. This often requires passing your money to passengers ahead and receiving your change the same way (which is always done scrupulously).

RIVERBUS

It’s of limited utility, but it’s scenic; the river bus runs from the Corniche near Downtown Cairo to Giza (MAP GOOGLE MAP), by the zoo and Cairo University. The Downtown terminal is located at Maspero, 250m north of the Ramses Hilton, in front of the big round TV building. Boats depart every 15 minutes. The trip takes 30 minutes and the fare is LE1.50.

TAXI

Outside the midafternoon rush, taxis are readily available and will come to a screeching halt with the slightest wave of your hand. For hailing off the street, the whole Cairo cab experience has been transformed by new white taxis with meters and even, on occasion, air-con. Older, unmetered black-and-white taxis still ply the streets, but although there’s the potential for getting a cheaper fare in them, the discomfort and near-inevitable argument at the end make them not worth your while.

Meter rates start at LE2.50, plus LE1.25 per kilometre and LE0.25 waiting. A tip of 10% or so is very much appreciated, and it’s good to have small change on hand, as drivers are often short of it. Some people have reported taxis with suspiciously fast-running meters, or drivers who claim the meter is broken. If you encounter either situation, simply stop the car, get out and flag down another – the vast majority are legitimate and won’t give you trouble.

Occasionally, to make extra fares, taxi drivers pick up multiple passengers, although this isn’t standard practice. This will usually result in a more roundabout journey. Feel free to wave on any driver who stops for you and already has passengers.

Hiring a taxi for a longer period runs from LE30 to LE40 per hour, depending on your bargaining skills; LE350 to LE400 for a full day is typical.

Female taxi driver Nour Gaber can be booked in advance, offers good rates and speaks English.

If you prefer not to hail off the street, both Uber and Middle East–based Careem (www.careem.com/cairo) operate taxi services in Cairo.

Giza Pyramids

Technically all of Cairo on the west bank of the Nile is Giza, though the name is inextricably linked with the Pyramids, 9km from the river, on the edge of the desert. Truly time-strapped sightseers could conceivably stay out here and bypass Cairo entirely, but that’s missing a lot of the fun. More realistically, you’ll probably come out here on a day outing. Sharia Al Haram (Pyramids Rd) leads straight to the site and the village of Nazlet As Samaan at its base and south of Pyramids Rd.

Giza Plateau

1Top Sights

1Pyramids of GizaB2

1Sights

2Cheops Boat MuseumB2

3Eastern CemeteryC2

4Great Pyramid of KhufuB2

5Khafre’s Valley TempleC3

6King Farouk’s Rest HouseC2

7Menkaure’s Funerary Temple A4

8Menkaure’s Valley TempleC4

9Pyramid of KhafreB3

10Pyramid of MenkaureA4

11Solar Barque PitsC2

12SphinxC3

13Tomb of Meresankh IIIC2

14Tomb of Senegemib-IntiB2

15Tomb of Seshemnufer IVC3

16Western CemeteryB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

17FB StablesD4

4Sleeping

18Mena House HotelB1

5Eating

    Khan Al Khalili(see 18)

    Moghul Room(see 18)

3Entertainment

19Sound & Light ShowD3

1Sights

The last remaining wonder of the ancient world; for nearly 4000 years, the extraordinary shape, impeccable geometry and sheer bulk of the Giza Pyramids (illustration here; adult/student LE120/60; h8am-4pm) have invited the obvious questions: ‘How were we built, and why?’. Centuries of research have given us parts of the answers. Built as massive tombs on the orders of the pharaohs, they were constructed by teams of workers tens-of-thousands strong. Today they stand as an awe-inspiring tribute to the might, organisation and achievements of ancient Egypt.

Ongoing excavations on the Giza Plateau, along with the discovery of a pyramid-builders’ settlement, complete with areas for large-scale food production and medical facilities, have provided more evidence that the workers were not the slaves of Hollywood tradition, but an organised workforce of Egyptian farmers. During the flood season, when the Nile covered their fields, the farmers could have been redeployed by the highly structured bureaucracy to work on the pharaoh’s tomb. In this way, the Pyramids can almost be seen as an ancient job-creation scheme. And the flood waters made it easier to transport building stone to the site. But, despite the evidence, some still won’t accept that the ancient Egyptians were capable of such achievements. So-called pyramidologists point to the carving and placement of the stones, precise to the millimetre, and argue the numerological significance of the structures’ dimensions as evidence that the Pyramids were constructed by angels or aliens. It’s easy to laugh at these out-there ideas, but when you see the monuments up close, especially inside, you’ll better understand why so many people believe such awesome structures must have unearthly origins. Most visitors will make a beeline straight to the four most famous sights; the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Khafre, the Pyramid of Menkaure and the Sphinx. But for those who want to explore further, the desert plateau surrounding the Pyramids is littered with tombs, temple ruins and smaller satellite pyramids.

Great Pyramid of KhufuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Great Pyramid of Cheops; interior adult/student LE300/150; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)

The oldest pyramid in Giza and the largest in Egypt, Khufu’s Great Pyramid stood 146m high when it was completed around 2570 BC. After 46 windy centuries, its height has been reduced by 9m.

There isn’t much to see inside the pyramid, but the experience of climbing through the ancient structure is unforgettable – though impossible if you suffer from the tiniest degree of claustrophobia. The elderly and unfit should not attempt the climb, as it is very steep.

First you clamber up the face of the pyramid a bit, up rudimentary stairs to the left of the entrance. Leave your camera with the guard if you have one, then crouch down to enter. At a juncture in the tunnel, a passage descends to an unfinished tomb (usually closed) about 100m along and 30m deep in the bedrock. From here, another passage, 1.3m high and 1m wide, ascends for about 40m to reach the Great Gallery, an impressive narrow space 47m long and 8.5m high. At the start of the gallery, a small horizontal passage leads into the so-called Queen’s Chamber.

As you climb up through the Great Gallery, notice how precisely the blocks in the ceiling fit together. In the 10m-long King’s Chamber at the end, the walls are built of red granite blocks. The ceiling itself consists of nine huge slabs of granite, which weigh more than 400 tonnes. Above these slabs, four more slabs are separated by gaps, which are designed to distribute the enormous weight away from the chamber. Good airflow from the modern ventilation system (built into two tiny ancient air shafts) will help you breathe easier as you contemplate the tremendous weight suspended above you.

East of the pyramid is a ruin of a different era: King Farouk’s Rest House, a grand neo-Pharaonic structure built in 1946 by Mustafa Fahmy. It’s now an unfortunate shambles, but there’s a good view of the city from the adjacent yard and in mid-2017 the government announced it had been pegged for restoration.

Along the pyramid’s east face, three small structures, some 20m high, resemble piles of rubble. These are the Queens’ Pyramids, the tombs of Khufu’s wives and sisters. You can enter some of them, but they’re quite steamy inside. Note also the solar barque pits between the pyramids, which held giant ritual boats.

Western CemeteryCEMETERY

Private cemeteries are tucked into the hill alongside the causeways, as well as arrayed in neat rows around the Pyramids in a grid pattern. Only a few of the tombs are open to the public at any given time. At the northern end of the Western Cemetery, the Tomb of Senegemib-Inti contains interesting inscriptions, including a rather vicious looking hippopotamus, rippling with muscle.

Eastern CemeteryCEMETERY

In this cemetery, on the eastern flank of the Queen’s Pyramids, you can still see the perfectly smooth limestone facing along the bases of some structures. The 4th-dynasty Tomb of Meresankh III (adult/student LE50/25), after 25 years of closure, has been reopened to help boost tourism. The bas-reliefs of daily life inside – scenes depict farming and craftspeople as well as Meresankh’s family – provide a colourful contrast with the stark, unadorned interiors of the Pyramids.

Just to the south, the Tomb of Seshemnufer IV is almost always open. Just inside the columned entrance, carved deer adorn the walls of the entrance room and there’s a burial chamber you can climb down into.

Cheops Boat MuseumMUSEUM

(adult/student 80/40, camera LE50; h9am-4pm)

Immediately south of the Great Pyramid is this fascinating museum with exactly one object on display: one of Cheops’ five solar barques (boats), buried near his pyramid, and unearthed in 1954. This huge, stunning ancient wood vessel, possibly the oldest boat in existence, was carefully restored from 1200 pieces of Lebanese cedar and encased in this museum to protect it from the elements. Visitors to the museum must help this process by donning protective footwear to keep sand out.

Five large pits were found near the Great Pyramid of Khufu. They contained the pharaoh’s solar barques, which may have been used to convey the mummy of the dead pharaoh across the Nile to the valley temple, from where it was brought up the causeway and into the tomb chamber. The boats were then buried around the pyramid to provide transport for the pharaoh in the next world.

This boat was put back together for this museum, but the others were buried again after their discovery.

Pyramid of KhafreARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Pyramid of Chephren; adult/student LE60/30; h8am-4pm)

Khafre, the second pyramid, seems larger than that of Khafre’s father, Khufu. At just 136m high, it’s not, but it stands on higher ground and its peak is still capped with the original polished limestone casing. Originally all three pyramids were totally encased in this smooth white stone, which would have made them gleam in the sun. Over the centuries, this casing has been stripped for use in palaces and mosques, exposing the softer inner-core stones to the elements.

The chambers and passageways of this pyramid are less elaborate than those in the Great Pyramid, but almost as claustrophobic. The entrance descends into a passage and then across to the burial chamber, which still contains Khafre’s large granite sarcophagus. At the time of research the interior of this pyramid was closed; it usually alternates opening with the Pyramid of Menkaure.

Back outside, to the east of the pyramid, are the substantial remains of Khafre’s funerary temple and the flagged paving of the causeway that provided access from the Nile to the tomb.

Pyramid of MenkaureARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Pyramid of Mycerinus; adult/student LE60/30; h8am-4pm)

At 62m (originally 66.5m), this pyramid is the smallest of the trio, only about one-tenth the bulk of the Great Pyramid. The pharaoh Menkaure died before the structure was finished – around the bottom are several courses of granite facing that were never properly smoothed. Inside, you descend into three distinct levels – the largest surprisingly vast – and you can peer into the main tomb.

Outside the pyramid you’ll see the excavated remains of Menkaure’s Funerary Temple and, further east, the ruins of his valley temple. To the south is a set of Queens’ Pyramids. If you hike this far, horse and camel touts will want to lure you out into the desert for better photo ops of all three pyramids. If you go, keep your general-admission ticket handy in case police ask for it when you return.

Khafre’s Valley TempleARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

You approach the Sphinx through this temple that once sat at the edge of a small artificial lake, connected to the Nile by a canal – it was in this way that construction materials were brought to the area at the start, and later it was how worshippers came to visit the temple. The sturdy building is filled with beautiful pink-granite columns and alabaster floors.

Look in the corners, where the pink-granite facing stones fit together like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. The temple originally held 23 statues of Khafre, which were illuminated with the ancient version of mood lighting, through slits between the top of the wall and the flat roof. Only one of these statues, all carved in the hard black stone diorite, has been found intact – it is now in the Egyptian Museum.

SphinxARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Known in Arabic as Abu Al Hol (Father of Terror), this sculpture of a man with the haunches of a lion was dubbed the Sphinx by the ancient Greeks because it resembled their mythical winged monster who set riddles and killed anyone unable to answer them. A geological survey has shown that it was most likely carved from the bedrock at the bottom of the causeway during Khafre’s reign, so it probably portrays his features.

As is clear from the accounts of early Arab travellers, the nose was hammered off sometime between the 11th and 15th centuries, although some still like to blame Napoleon for the deed. Part of the fallen beard was carted off by 19th-century adventurers and is now on display in the British Museum in London. These days the Sphinx has potentially greater problems: pollution and rising groundwater are causing internal fractures, and it is under a constant state of repair.

Legends and superstitions about the Sphinx abound, and the mystery surrounding its long-forgotten purpose is almost as intriguing as its appearance. On seeing it for the first time, many visitors agree with English playwright Alan Bennett, who noted in his diary that seeing the Sphinx is like meeting a TV personality in the flesh: he’s smaller than one had imagined.

Wissa Wassef Art CentreARTS CENTRE

(%02-3381-5746; www.wissawassef.com; Saqqara Rd, Harraniyya; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, by appointment only Mon) F

The artisans of the Wissa Wassef Art Centre, who work in open studios, are known for their distinctive tapestries depicting rural scenes. Crude imitations are standard in souvenir shops; the ones for sale and on display in the museum here are in a completely different class, like paintings in wool. There’s pottery and batik fabric, done to equally good effect. The place has the feeling of a sanctuary – quiet and refreshingly green, especially after a dusty Pyramids visit.

The centre is housed in a beautiful mudbrick complex, the work of its founder, architect Ramses Wissa Wassef. It won an Aga Khan prize for its refined traditional style.

To get here, take a Saqqara-bound microbus (LE3) or taxi from Pyramids Rd at Maryutia Canal – a giant flyover runs above it. Get off when you see the blue ‘Harraniyya’ sign, after about 3.5km, and about 600m after the flyover turns away. The centre is by the canal on the west side of the road.

Pyramid Practicalities

Entrance & Tickets

The main entrance is at the end of Pyramids Rd (Sharia Al Haram), though if you come on a tour bus, you may enter through the gate below the Sphinx, in the village of Nazlet As Samaan.

Additional tickets are required for the Cheops Boat Museum, the Tomb of Meresankh III and the pyramid interiors. The Great Pyramid is always open, along with one of the other two (they alternate every year or so). Pyramid interior and Tomb of Meresankh III tickets can only be purchased at the main entrance ticket office. Secondary-pyramid tickets are sold all day. At peak times, Great Pyramid tickets (300 per day available in summer, 500 per day in winter) are sold in two lots, first thing in the morning and at 1pm. In winter, you may need to queue, especially on Wednesday and Thursday, when tour groups come from the Red Sea. These days, though, with fewer tourists in Egypt, tickets are usually available all day, without queues. If you exit the site to purchase additional tickets, let the guards know so there’s no trouble when you come back through.

Cameras are allowed all over the site, including in the museum (for a fee), but not inside pyramids and tombs. Guards will watch your camera at the pyramid entrances in exchange for LE5 or so baksheesh; some will also permit photos inside tombs for a tip.

Facilities & Food

Clean, well-maintained toilets are right beside the main entrance’s ticket office (tip the attendant LE2 or so). On the plateau, there’s one decent one in the Cheops Boat Museum and a row of less nice options in a dodgy trailer near the Great Pyramid. At the base of the Sphinx, there’s a decent toilet block (LE2 fee).

The open-air cafe (drinks LE20, sandwiches LE25 to LE65) at the base of the Sphinx wasn’t operating when we were last here. For food, it’s grossly overpriced, and the waiters are easily ‘confused’ when making change. For the same amount, you can refresh at the nearby Pizza Hut or far lovelier Mena House, though this means a hike back up the hill to the main entrance gate. For cheap eats, from the Sphinx gate walk a bit northeast on the main road through Nazlet As Samaan, and you’ll pass various snack options.

Horses & Camels

Considering the pressure, it’s tempting to ignore the camel touts; however, the distance between the three pyramids is significant, so the service is a real one. ‘Official’ prices (LE50 per 30 minutes) exist, but, as one tourist police officer said with an apologetic shrug, ‘You’re still expected to bargain.’ Realistically, you can’t ride an animal any distance for less than LE50, and LE20 is the minimum for a short trot and photo op. Choose only healthy-looking animals, and if you’re asked to pay more than agreed before you’re let down, call over the nearest tourist police, or go to the tourist police office by Mena House and complain. For longer rides, hiring a horse from one of the village stables is a far better option than taking one from inside the Pyramids complex.

2Activities

There’s only one thing to do around the Pyramids, and you’ll never stop hearing about it. But a desert horse ride at sunset, with the Pyramids as a background, is unforgettable.

All of the stables are strung along the road south of the coach park by the Sphinx gate.

Expect to pay around LE150 per person per hour at a good place; a reputable operation won’t ask for money till the end of the ride. Others may charge less, but often their horses are very poorly kept. Tip your guide an additional LE10 to LE15, and keep your Pyramids site ticket or you’ll be charged again to enter. Moonlit rides around the Pyramids are another favourite outing but under new regulations you can’t ride anywhere close to the site after 6pm.

NB StablesHORSE RIDING

(%02-3382-0435, 012-2746-2565; www.facebook.com/NasserBreeshStables; Nazlet As Samaan; rides per hr LE150)

General Cairo foreign resident opinion holds that this is the best stables near the Sphinx. It’s owned by Nasser Breesh, who’s praised for his healthy steeds and good guides.

His place can be tricky to find: head down the street by the Sphinx poster off the main square where horses are gathered, or ask for directions to the Sphinx Club, as the stables are just behind.

FB StablesHORSE RIDING

(%010-6507-0288; www.fbstablesgiza.co.uk; Sharia Gamal Abdul Nasser; rides per hr LE150; h24hr)

This stables for horse rides at the Pyramids is recommended for its healthy, well cared for horses.

4Sleeping

Tiba Pyramids HotelHOTEL$

(%3358-1659; www.tibapyramidshotel.com; 33 Pyramids Rd; r from LE320; aW)

The best deal within walking distance of the Pyramids, though not great quality. The traffic noise is intense as it’s at a major intersection. Only stay here if you’re on a budget and planning a surgical strike on the Pyramids.

BarcelóHOTEL$$

(%3582-3300; www.barcelo.com; 229 Pyramids Rd; r from €66; aWs)

Well placed for a strategic visit to the Pyramids, without totally giving up on the city. The Giza metro stop is about 3km away, and the Pyramids are 4km. It’s a standard chain, but modern and well kitted-out, with good breakfast and a nice rooftop pool.

Mena House HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(%3377-3222; www.menahousehotel.com; Pyramids Rd; s/d from US$315/345; aWs)

Built in 1869 as Khedive Ismail’s hunting lodge, Mena House dazzles with intricate gold decoration and air that perpetually smells of jasmine. The grandest palace-wing rooms are borderline-kitschy Arabian Nights style, but the view of the Great Pyramid filling your window is a treat. Rooms in the garden wing are more typically modern. The swimming pool is suitably capacious.

5Eating

Khan Al KhaliliEGYPTIAN$$

(Pyramids Rd, Mena House Hotel; mains LE73-165; h1-3pm & 7.30-10pm)

This casual restaurant at Mena House has huge windows opening on to the Pyramids – a great place to rest up for lunch after a morning of Pyramids sightseeing. The menu offers plenty of mezze plus traditional mains of stuffed pigeon, molokhiyya (garlicky leaf soup, a speciality of Egypt) and pan-fried Nile perch.

AndreaEGYPTIAN$$

(%010-0353-2000; New Giza Rd, New Giza; mains LE35-120; hnoon-midnight)

Long a favoured post-Pyramids dining spot, Andrea has moved out to a new hilltop spot in New Giza, where you eat in the garden while overlooking the city-sprawl. It’s justly famous for its spit-roasted chicken and tasty mezze dishes, though it’s a bit of a hike by taxi (about 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic) from the Pyramids now.

Moghul RoomINDIAN$$$

(%3377-3222; www.menahousehotel.com; Pyramids Rd, Mena House Hotel; mains LE70-185; h7.30-11pm; v)

Mena House’s long-running Indian restaurant specialises in tandoori dishes and mild North Indian–style curries with a good range of vegetarian dishes too. Though it’s a long taxi ride from Downtown, the opulent decor, good food and live sitar music make it worthwhile. Not entirely authentic but pleasant and beautiful surroundings.

The Pyramids Hustle

Usually crammed with tour buses, gargling camels, and camel- and horse-carriage touts, the Pyramids is an intense tourist scene and many visitors find it the most gruelling part of their trip. Unfortunately, until the site is better managed and the people in the village by the Pyramids have some other income besides selling horse and camel rides, there is no way to avoid the sales pressure and scam attempts. It does help, however, to know what you’re up against. These days, however, with fewer tourists around, there are fewer vendors, but among these the desperation to make some money is even greater.

The hustle can start before you even leave your hotel, where someone tries to sell you a ‘sunrise tour’ of the Pyramids: really just a way of delivering you early to the horse touts, as you can’t enter the site before 8am. En route, someone will chat you up at the Giza metro, or a man will jump in your taxi while it’s stuck in traffic on Pyramids Rd. The road ahead is closed, he warns, and the best way to proceed is on a horse. (The road is closed, sort of; about 1km from the site, all outbound traffic must detour north on Sharia Al Mansouria. Don’t panic – you’ll loop back to the Pyramids soon.) If you’ve been dropped at the bottom of the hill at the main entrance gate, while you’re walking up to the ticket office horse touts will try to convince you the entrance has moved, only vehicles are allowed to enter this way, or point you to a secret back route. Counterfeit tickets aren’t unheard of – buy yours only from the ticket-office windows.

Once through the turnstiles, police might direct you to a waiting man, or men will ask for your ticket in an official tone. Ignore them, as they’re just attempting to become your guide. You need only show your additional tickets at the Great Pyramid, at whichever secondary pyramid is open, and at the Tomb of Meresankh III (and guards should take only half the ticket, not the whole thing). Guards also sometimes check your general ticket at the Sphinx. Attendants at smaller tombs will ask for a ticket, hoping you’ll assume you need to buy one – flash your general ticket and you should be fine.

Even knowing all this won’t stop touts from approaching you, and no matter how tersely and frequently you say no, these guys won’t stop – it’s the only job they’ve got. So it’s key for your own happiness not to snap, but to smile and just keep walking. It also helps to remember that the Pyramids have been attracting tourists since day one, and a local was probably already waiting to sell a souvenir.

8Getting There & Away

The most efficient traffic-beating way to reach the Pyramids is to go via metro to Giza (LE2), then by taxi (about LE20), microbus (LE5) or bus (LE2.50).

Microbuses cluster at the bottom of the west-side stairs from the metro (drivers are yelling ‘Haram’). The driver will drop you at the roundabout, right outside the main entrance gate to the Pyramids. You just need to walk up the hill to the ticket office.

Buses stop on the north side of Pyramids Rd, just west of the metro underpass. Hop on any headed for Midan Al Remaya and get off at Sharia Al Mansouria, or look out for buses 355 or 357, which terminate in front of Mena House, about 250m from the site entrance.

Returning to Cairo, if you want to take a microbus or bus back to Giza metro, it’s easiest to exit back through the main gate and flag one down at the roundabout just outside the gate. Taxis will try to convince you to go for a flat fare, rather than on the meter. Walking out further helps. You could also take a tuk-tuk from near the Sphinx gate out to Pyramids Rd for about LE3.

The Pyramids After Dark

Narrated by the Sphinx, the sound and light show (%02-3385-7320; www.soundandlight.com.eg; Sphinx Entrance Gate; LE150-175; hshows at 7pm & 8pm Oct-Apr, 7.30pm & 8.30pm May-Sep) is a rather dated spectacular. It’s not worth a special trip, but fine if you’re in the area – it is neat to see the Pyramids so dramatically lit. The first show (in English; free translation headsets available) always runs; the second (in either Italian, French, German or Spanish) runs with a minimum of five spectators.

The entrance and ticket office is on the Sphinx side. Though there’s officially no student discount, some readers report negotiating a small one.