Siwa Oasis & the Western Desert
Al Kharga Oasis
Al Kharga
Around Al Kharga
Dakhla Oasis
Mut
Balat
Bashendi
Al Qasr
Deir Al Haggar & Around
Farafra Oasis
Qasr Al Farafra
Farafra Oasis to Bahariya Oasis
Al Hayz
Black Desert
Bahariya Oasis
Bawiti
Siwa Oasis
Great Sand Sea & Gilf Kebir
Siwa Oasis & the Western Desert
Why Go?
Older than the Pyramids, as sublime as any temple, Egypt’s Western Desert is a vast sweep of elemental beauty. The White Desert’s shimmering vista of surreal rock formations and the ripple and swell of the Great Sand Sea’s mammoth dunes are simply bewitching.
Within this intense landscape five oases, shaded by palm plantations and blessed by a plethora of natural hot and cold springs, provide a glimpse of rural Egyptian life. Get lost exploring Al Qasr’s squiggling narrow lanes in Dakhla. Watch sunset sear across the countryside atop Gebel Al Ingleez in Bahariya. Take a stroll amid Siwa’s sprawling date palms. Once you’ve finished adventuring, kick back and just enjoy the laid-back pace of oasis life.
When to Go
- Apr–May After winter, travellers thin out and the oases prepare for the summer heat.
- Sep–Oct Wander the oases’ palm groves as the date harvest commences.
- Nov–Mar The coolest time to be in the oases, when the hot springs are a delight.
Best Places to Stay
Siwa Oasis & the Western Desert Highlights
1 White Desert Gaping in awe at this geologic wonderland.
2 Siwa Oasis Hitting the end of the road to revel in the far-from-anywhere vibe and delve into the unique Siwan culture.
3 Bahariya Oasis Soaking off the dust in palm-shaded natural springs and pools.
4 Al Qasr Wandering through this lost-in-time, labyrinthine mud-brick town.
5 Al Kharga Oasis Exploring the fascinating, rarely visited early Christian ruins.
History
The name Western Desert was given by the British to their share of the Libyan Desert. It doesn’t really exist as a separate desert. As with the Sahara and other deserts that stretch across northern Africa, the Western Desert was once covered by the Sea of Tethys and later became a savannah that supported all manner of wildlife. Giraffes, lions and elephants roamed here in Palaeolithic times, when the landscape is thought to have looked much like the African Sahel. All that you see in the desert – the huge tracts of sand, the vast gravel plains, the fossil beds and limestone rocks – were once the happy hunting grounds that supported nomadic tribes. Gradual climate change led to desertification and turned this vast area into the arid expanse seen today. Only depressions in the desert floor have enough water to support wildlife, agriculture and human settlement.
The ancient Egyptians understood the nature of the desert, which they saw as being synonymous with death and exile. Seth, the god of chaos who killed his brother Osiris, was said to rule here. It is believed the ancient Egyptians maintained links with the oases throughout the Pharaonic era, and with the accession of a Libyan dynasty (22nd dynasty, 945–715 BC), focus increased on the oases and the caravan routes linking the Nile Valley with lands to the west.
The oases enjoyed a period of great prosperity during Roman times, when new wells and improved irrigation led to the production of wheat and grapes for export to Rome. Garrisoned fortresses that protected the oases and trade routes can still be seen in the desert around Al Kharga and Bahariya, and Roman-era temples and tombs lie scattered across all the oases.
When the Romans withdrew from Egypt, the trade routes became a target for attacking nomadic tribes. Trade suffered, the oases went into gradual decline, and the population of settlements shrank. By medieval times, raids by nomads were severe enough to bring Mamluk garrisons to the oases. The fortified villages built to defend the population can still be seen in Dakhla (Al Qasr, Balat) and Siwa (Shali).
The biggest change to the oases after the departure of the Romans occurred in 1958, when President Nasser created the so-called New Valley to relieve population pressure along the Nile. Roads were laid between the previously isolated oases, irrigation systems were modernised and an administration was established. The New Valley Governorate is the largest in Egypt and one of the least densely populated: there has never been enough work to draw significant numbers away from the Nile.
The Western Desert region has remained mostly unscathed throughout Egypt’s recent years of political upheaval. Even during the 2011 revolution, Al Kharga was the only Western Desert oasis town to throw itself into the anti-Mubarak fray; after police fired into a crowd of protesters, the protesters set fire to the police station, a courthouse and other buildings. Three demonstrators were reported killed, with about 100 injured. More recently though there have been problems with smugglers crossing the desert from Libya, bringing weapons, drugs and other goods to the Nile Valley. As long as the security situation in Libya remains unstable, the travel warning from many foreign governments will remain: avoid travelling to the oases unless you have to, and no desert safaris allowed.
Dangers & Annoyances
At the time of writing the situation of travelling to the oases was fairly confused, not least in the variety of travel advisories from foreign governments. We recommend that you read the advice of your government before deciding to travel in this region. If you still want to travel, certain areas should still be avoided, including all deep desert areas, such as the Gilf Kebir.
Because of instability in neighbouring Libya, there is said to be a considerable number of smugglers crossing the desert to the Nile Valley with weapons, drugs and other goods. The Egyptian army has neither the means nor the ability to control movement in the vast desert area, something that became clear in 2015 when the army killed 12 people, mostly Mexican tourists, who had driven off the road for a rest stop. Some near-desert areas are also off limits: the tourist police currently do not allow travel agencies to use the Cairo–Bahariya desert road. This leaves the arc from Luxor to Cairo through the oases. At the time of our research, there was no problem using this route, although individuals tend to be stopped at all checkpoints and may have to travel between the oases with a police escort. Some travel agencies in Bahariya and Siwa will arrange tours into the nearby desert without problems, including overnights in the White Desert. If you are booking through an agency, make sure it has permission in advance from the authorities and that all passengers’ details have been logged.
As long as the security situation in Libya remains unstable, it is unlikely there will be changes to the state of affairs in the oases. You travel here at your own risk and are advised, before travelling, to check the latest situation with a reputable, specialist agency.
Long-Range Desert Safaris
Going on safari in the Western Desert was always one of the more rewarding experiences Egypt had to offer. However, at the time of writing, foreigners were allowed to go to the oases, but not to camp out in the desert or undertake long-range safaris. Desperate for work, some guides still offer short-range safaris into the desert, especially the White Desert, but it pays to be careful.
The Western Desert’s more challenging routes such as the Great Sand Sea, the remote Gilf Kebir (in Egypt’s southwest corner) – where you’ll find the Cave of the Swimmers, made famous by The English Patient – and Gebel Uweinat, a 2000m-high peak trisected by the Egyptian, Libyan and Sudanese borders, are definitely out of reach currently. When desert travel is allowed again, remember that these adventures require extensive organisation, quality equipment and plenty of experience to properly execute; the consequences of mishaps are severe, sometimes fatal. Military permits, which are available locally for short desert treks, must be procured in Cairo for longer trips. Choose one of the operators that have a solid international reputation, are among the more reliable in Egypt, and will treat the desert with the respect it deserves.
Hisham NessimOutdoors
( 
% 010-0667-8099)
Rally driver Hisham Nessim has been driving in the desert for many years. With satellite phones, GPS and six 4WDs specially rigged for long-range desert travel, he is prepared to go to all corners of Egypt. He offers 12 programs of two to 20 days, or will tailor-make tours when these are allowed again.
Dabuka ExpeditionsOutdoors
(MAP; % 010-0355-9729; www.dabuka.de; 1 Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra)
This German-based company previously arranged multiday safaris into the Great Sand Sea, Gebel Uweinat and Gilf Kebir, as well as specialised tours led by scientists and archaeologists. It also organised 4WD rental and logistics for desert do-it-yourselfers. It was only running local desert travel at the time of writing.
Al BadawiyaOutdoors
(MAP; % 092-751-0060, Cairo 02-2390-6429; www.badawiya.com)
The three Ali brothers are Bedouin from Farafra, who have built up a significant business operating out of their Farafra-based hotel and an office in downtown Cairo (21 Sharia Youssef El Gendy). For now, they arrange trips around the oases and into the White Desert.
With considerable experience in the Western Desert, they can mount tailored camel or jeep safaris from three to 28 days in length, once these are allowed again. They have tents, cooking equipment and bedding.
Khalifa ExpeditionTours
(% 012-2321-5445; www.khalifaexpedition.com)
Khaled and Rose-Maria Khalifa have been running camel and jeep tours throughout the Western Desert from their base in Bahariya Oasis for more than 15 years. Rose-Maria is a qualified speech therapist and foot masseuse, which perhaps explains why they also offer meditation-retreat desert tours for people more interested in communing with nature than looking at antiquities.
Al Kharga Oasis
As the capital of the New Valley Governorate and the closest of the oases to the Nile Valley, Al Kharga is also the most modern and therefore the least exotic. Lying in a 220km-long and 40km-wide depression, Al Kharga has long stood at the crossroads of vital desert trade routes, including the famous Darb Al Arba’een. This influential location brought it great prosperity, and with the arrival of the Romans, wells were dug, crops cultivated and fortresses built to protect caravan routes. Even as late as the 1890s, British forces were using lookout towers here to safeguard the ‘back door’ into Egypt.
The new road to Luxor and the airport with flights to Cairo makes it a convenient gateway to the oases, and a smattering of ancient sites here means it’s a decent stopover in its own right.
Al Kharga
%092 / Pop 80,000
The bustling city of Al Kharga is the largest town in the Western Desert and also the poster-child of the government’s efforts to modernise the oases. The town’s wide, bare boulevards rimmed by drab concrete housing blocks are definitely not what most travellers conjure up when they picture an oasis idyll. Despite the less than picturesque surroundings, the town is a good base for exploring a handful of unique, gently crumbling sights found around this oasis valley floor.
Al Kharga
1Sights
7Shopping
1Sights
The most popular monuments near Al Kharga lie along the good asphalt road that stretches south to Baris, but there are a few intriguing, harder-to-reach destinations north of town. Though less visited, they are hands-down the best day trips you can make around the oasis. There is an inclusive ticket for all the monuments in Kharga (adult/student LE120/60).
oNecropolis of Al BagawatArchaeological Site
(MAP; adult/student LE50/25 incl Monastery of Al Kashef; 
h 8.30am-4pm)
It may not look like much from afar, but this necropolis is one of the earliest surviving and best-preserved Christian cemeteries in the world. About 1km north of the Temple of Hibis, it’s built on the site of an earlier Egyptian necropolis, with most of the 263 mud-brick chapel-tombs appearing to date from the 4th to the 6th centuries AD.
Some have interiors decorated with vivid murals of biblical scenes and boast ornate facades. The Chapel of Peace has figures of the Apostles on the squinches of the domes, just visible through Greek graffiti. The Chapel of the Exodus, one of the oldest tombs, has the best-preserved paintings, including the Old Testament story of Moses leading the children of Israel out of Egypt, which is visible through some 9th-century graffiti. Another large family tomb (No 25) has a mural of Abraham sacrificing Isaac, and the smaller Chapel of the Grapes (Anaeed Al Ainab) is named after the images of grapevines that cover the walls.
The site guardian will guide you around the site and unlock the doors to the decorated tombs; he’ll expect a tip of about LE5.
Monastery of Al KashefRuins
(Deir Al Kashef; adult/student LE50/25 incl Necropolis of Al Bagawat; h 8.30am-4pm)
Dominating the cliffs 2km to the north of the Necropolis of Al Bagawat, the ruined Monastery of Al Kashef is strategically placed to overlook what was one of the most important crossroads of the Western Desert – the point where the Darb Al Ghabari from Dakhla crossed the Darb Al Arba’een (Forty Days Rd). The magnificent mud-brick remains date back to the early Christian era. Once five storeys high, much of it has collapsed, but you can see the tops of the arched corridors that criss-crossed the building.
To get here, walk or drive on the left-hand track from the Necropolis of Al Bagawat for about 2km.
Temple of HibisTemple
(MAP; adult/student LE80/40; h 8.30am-4pm)
The town of Hebet (‘the Plough’, now corrupted into Hibis) was the capital of the oasis in antiquity, but all that remains today is the well-preserved limestone Temple of Hibis. Once sitting on the edge of a sacred lake, the temple was dedicated to Amun of Hibis (the local version of the god, who was sometimes given solar powers, becoming Amun-Ra).
Amun-Hibis appears here with his usual companions Mut and Khons. Look for reliefs in the hypostyle hall showing the god Seth battling with the evil serpent Apophis. There’s also an avenue of sphinxes, a court and an inner sanctuary. Construction of the temple began during the 25th dynasty, though the decorations and a colonnade were added over the following 300 years. It’s 2km north of town, just to the left of the main road; pick-ups (LE1) heading to Al Munira pass this way.
Temple of An NaduraRuins
(MAP)
Located on a hill to the right of the main road when heading north from Al Kharga town, the Temple of An Nadura has strategic views of the area and once doubled as a fortified lookout. It was built during the reign of Roman emperor Antoninus Pius (AD 138–61) to protect the oasis. Now badly ruined, the superb vistas here are ideal for sunset adulation.
Al Kharga Museum of AntiquitiesMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser; adult/student LE25/15; h 8.30am-2pm)
Designed to resemble the architecture of the nearby Necropolis of Al Bagawat, this two-storey museum is an old-school dusty trove of archaeological finds from around Al Kharga and Dakhla oases. The collection is small but fairly interesting and includes artefacts from prehistoric times through the Ottoman Era, featuring tools, jewellery, textiles and other objects that sketch out the cultural history of the region.
T Tours
Mohsen Abd Al MoneemTours
( % 010-0180-6127)
Mohsen Abd Al Moneem, from Al Kharga’s tourist office, is an experienced tour guide highly recommended by travellers and is a mine of information on the oasis. He can arrange private transport to sights and also to Luxor or Cairo.
Sameh Abdel RihemTours
( % 010-0296-2192)
If you really dig archaeology, Sameh Abdel Rihem is an expert on Kharga’s antiquities and has a palpable love for surrounding sights both popular and esoteric.
4Sleeping
Al Kharga’s accommodation scene is slim pickings. Whichever hotel you choose, you’d better recalibrate your hotel expectations – maintenance and cleanliness don’t seem to be top priority for any hotel owner here.
Kharga Oasis HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 092-2792-1206, 012-6866-6299; Midan Nasser; r LE150, bungalow LE350)
This homage to the 1960s’ love of concrete blocks is your best bet for bedding down for the night in Al Kharga. The main building sports large rooms with decent beds and bathrooms, but opt for one of the traditionally styled domed bungalows out back, set around a tranquil and lush palm-filled garden (beware the mosquitoes) for a bit more style.
The hotel is government-run, so service and maintenance is haphazard at best. If you can’t get through to the hotel on either of the contact numbers when booking, ring Mohsen Abd Al Moneam of the Al Kharga tourist office to book on your behalf. Breakfast is not included.
El Radwan HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 092-2792-1716; off Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser; s/d LE110/200)
One of the only decent (and we use that word loosely) budget hotels in Al Kharga. The air-con mostly works, the water runs and the rooms pass muster if you need a cheap sleep. The facade looks like it’s about to fall down, but it does get better on the inside. Breakfast is not included.
Qasr Al BagawatGuesthouse$$
( % 012-0001-2669, 012-2695-5819; www.qasrelbagawat.com; opposite Necropolis of Al Bagawat; s/d half board €57/66; 
p )
Small and charming eco-lodge with 22 domed mudbrick rooms decorated in local style. There is a hot spring for bathing, a lovely garden for shade and a Bedouin restaurant. The aim of the owners is to let guests completely relax, so no internet or TV in the rooms.
Sol Y Mar Pioneers HotelHotel$$
( % 092-2792-9751; Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser; s/d/ste with half board US$60/80/100; 
i
Ws )
This vast salmon-pink resort still offers the most comfortable and only properly clean rooms in Al Kharga. The staff is wonderfully friendly, the swimming pool is a godsend on a hot day, and the vast, lush gardens are a heavenly escape. Obvious wear and tear to the spacious rooms, however, makes it ridiculously overpriced.
The restaurant is the only place in town where you can count on getting alcohol.
5Eating
There’s a smattering of basic hole-in-the-wall restaurants around Midan Sho’ala, Sharia Al Adel and near Midan Basateen. Most are open for lunch and dinner. For breakfast, hit a falafel stand or a bakery.
Crepiano CafeCrêpes$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Basateen; mains LE10-21; h 4pm-late; 
v ) Yep.
It’s a crêperie in Al Kharga. And the crêpes are rather good too. Choose from a plethora of ingredients (from chocolate to sausage and everything in between), seat yourself at a rickety table outside and survey the chaotic downtown Al Kharga action.
Al AhramEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Basateen; mains LE15-40)
This small, friendly place is a carnivore’s favourite. It serves roast chicken and kofta (mincemeat and spices grilled on a skewer) accompanied by modest salads and vegetable dishes. The smell of grilled meat will lure you in. Look for the sign above with pictures of the pyramids (al ahram) to find it.
Pizza Ibn Al BaladPizza$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Sho’ala; pizzas LE20-45; h 5pm-late; v )
If you’re pining for a change from grilled meat and salad, make a beeline for this little place that rustles up some of the best fiteer (Egyptian flaky pizza) in the oases. Choose from cheese, vegetarian, tuna or beef toppings.
WimpyEgyptian $$
(Wembe; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Basateen; meals LE20-35)
This busy joint gets the thumbs up from Al Kharga locals for serving simple but tasty Egyptian feasts of grilled meats, salads, rice and vegetable dishes. It’s one of the town’s most solid choices for a decent meal.
EstekozaEgyptian $$
(MAP; %
010-0091-7670; Sur As Saha Ash Shaabiya; mains LE20-45; h noon-midnight)
Popular restaurant selling excellent fresh fish – unlikely in the middle of the desert, but true.
7Shopping
Midan Sho’ala MarketMarket
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Midan Sho’ala)
Stock up on all your fresh produce at this truly local market that runs through the alleyways off Midan Sho’ala. You’ll find everything here from plastic-fantastic houseware to clucking chickens piled high in boxes. Traditional cobblers and metalworkers, and local dates by the barrelful, sit between stalls selling bawdy, cheap clothing and chintzy-tat.
It’s brilliant and there’s not a singing toy camel or pyramid snow-globe in sight. Come in the evening when half of Al Kharga seems to be here shopping.
8Information
Banque du Caire (MAP GOOGLE MAP; off Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser) Has an ATM.
National Bank of Egypt (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser) Across from the museum; has an ATM.
New Valley Tourist Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0180-6127, 092-2792-1206; Midan Nasser; h 9am-2pm Sat-Thu)
Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 092-2792-1367; Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser) Next door to New Valley Tourist Office.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The airport is 5km north of town. The Petroleum Service Company usually has Monday and Thursday flights on a 15-seat plane, leaving Cairo at 8am and returning from Al Kharga at 3pm (LE600 one way, 1½ hours).
Bus
From the bus station (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %
092-2792-4587; Sharia Mohammed Farid), Upper Egypt Bus Co operates buses to Cairo (LE120, eight to 10 hours) daily at 9pm and 10pm. There are three services to Asyut (LE30, three to four hours) at 6am, 7am and 9am. The bus heading north to Dakhla Oasis (LE25, three hours) leaves at 2pm.
There’s no direct bus service to Luxor. You can either catch a bus to Asyut and change there, or hire a private taxi.
Taxi
Private taxis can get you to/from Luxor in about 3½ hours, using the new highway. This will set you back about LE800, but if you can get a few people to share costs it’s an excellent alternative to the bus if you want to combine a trip to the Western Desert with the Nile Valley. If you want private transport to Cairo, a taxi will cost LE1350. Contact Mohsen Abd Al Moneem at the New Valley Tourist Office to arrange a car for you.
The Way of Dusty Death on the Darb Al Arba’een
Al Kharga Oasis sits atop what was once the only major African north–south trade route through Egypt’s Western Desert: the notorious Darb Al Arba’een, or Forty Days Road. A 1721km track linking Fasher in Sudan’s Darfur province with Asyut in the Nile Valley, this was one of Africa’s great caravan trails, bringing the riches of Sudan – gold, ivory, skins, ostrich feathers and especially slaves – north to the Nile Valley and beyond to the Mediterranean.
The road is thought to date back to the Old Kingdom. The richness of the merchandise transported along this bleak track was such that protecting it was a priority. The Romans invested heavily here, building a series of fortresses – such as Qasr Ad Dush, the Monastery of Al Kashef and Qasr Al Ghueita – to tax the caravans and try to foil the frequent raids by desert tribespeople.
Despite the dangers, Darb Al Arba’een flourished until well into the Islamic era, by which time it was Egypt’s main source of slaves. Untold numbers of human cargo died of starvation and thirst on the journey north. According to 19th-century European travellers, slavers travelled in the intense summer heat, preferring to expose their merchandise to dehydration on what British geographer GW Murray (author of the 1967 Dare Me to the Desert) called ‘the way of dusty death’, rather than risk the possibility of bronchitis and pneumonia from the cold desert winter.
Despite repeated attempts by the British to suppress the trade, slaves were brought north until Darfur became part of Sudan at the beginning of the 20th century. The Darb Al Arba’een withered, and today its route has been all but lost.
8Getting Around
Al Kharga oasis is fairly spread out, with the bus station in the south-central part of town, the minibus stand in the southeast near the souq, and most hotels a fair hike away from both. Microbuses (LE1) run along the main streets of Al Kharga, especially Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser. Taxis for trips in town cost between LE5 and LE10.
Around Al Kharga
The most popular monuments near Al Kharga lie along the good asphalt road that stretches south to Baris, but there are a few intriguing, harder-to-reach destinations north of town. Though less visited, they are hands-down the best day trips you can make around the oasis.
All the ticketed monuments in this area are covered by the Kharga inclusive ticket (adult/student LE120/60).
1Sights
Qasr Al GhueitaFort
(adult/student LE40/20; h 8am-4pm)
The garrison’s massive outer walls enclose a 25th-dynasty sandstone temple, dedicated to the Theban triad Amun, Mut and Khons. In later centuries, the fortress served as the perimeter for a village, with some houses surviving along the outer wall. Within the hypostyle hall a series of reliefs show Hapy, the pot-bellied Nile god, holding symbols of the nomes (provinces) of Upper Egypt.
Although you wouldn’t guess it from the arid dusty landscape, during antiquity this area, some 18km south of Al Kharga, was the centre of a fertile agricultural community renowned for its grapes and winemaking – the name means ‘Fortress of the Small Garden’.. Settlement here has been dated back to the Middle Kingdom period when it was known as Perousekh. Today two sturdy forts from its later Roman period survive here, lording-it-up over the plains, probably utilised as garrison buildings for troops.
From the main road to Baris, an asphalted track leads 2km to this imposing mud-brick fortress. If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can get to the fort from Al Kharga by taking a microbus heading for Baris (LE8) or a covered pick-up going to Bulaq (LE2.50). From the highway an asphalt road links the forts, running up the desert incline for 3km to Qasr Al Ghueita. It’s an extremely long, hot hike if you’re on foot – be sure to take plenty of water.
Qasr Al ZayyanFort
(adult/student LE40/20)
One of the major monuments of the Kharga Oasis is the Graeco-Roman temple of Qasr Al Zayyan, in the ancient village of Takhoneourit. The town, mostly unexcavated, was an important stop on the desert route to Esna. The small sandstone temple, part of a fortress, was dedicated to Amon-Hibis, and consists of a court leading to the sanctuary with a beautiful cult-niche, and a chamber with a staircase to the roof.
Baris Al GedidaArchitecture
The mud-brick houses of Baris Al Gedida lie about 2km north of the original town. Hassan Fathy, Egypt’s most influential modern architect, designed the houses using traditional methods and materials, intending Baris Al Gedida to be a model for other new settlements. Work stopped at the outbreak of the Six Day War of 1967, and only two houses and some public spaces have ever been completed.
The site was abandoned and never lived in.
Qasr Ad DushFort
(adult/student LE40/20; h 8am-5pm)
About 13km to the southeast of Baris, Qasr Ad Dush is an imposing Roman temple-fortress completed around AD 177 on the site of the ancient town of Kysis. A 1st-century sandstone temple abutting the fortress was dedicated to Isis and Serapis. The gold decorations that once covered parts of the temple and earned it renown have long gone, but there is still some decoration on the inner stone walls.
Dush was a border town strategically placed at the intersection of five desert tracks and was one of the southern gateways to Egypt. It may also have been used to guard the Darb Al Dush, an east–west track to the Esna and Edfu temples in the Nile Valley. As a result it was solidly built and heavily garrisoned, with four or five more storeys lying underground.
oQasr Al LabakhaHistoric Site
Set amid a desertscape of duney desolation, Qasr Al Labakha is a micro-oasis some 40km north of Al Kharga. Scattered among sandy swells and rocky shelves are the remains of a towering four-storey Roman fortress, two temples and a vast necropolis where more than 500 mummies have been unearthed (you can still see human remains in the tombs). Day trips to Labakha can be arranged by Al Kharga’s tourist office, with prices starting at around US$150 per vehicle.
Ain Umm Al DabadibFort
F This impressive fort sits on a ridge rising grandly out of the desert plains about 20km west of Qasr Al Labakha. It has one of the most complex underground aqueduct systems built in this area by the Romans. Trips here qualify as serious desert excursions and you’ll require a 4WD with experienced drivers, who can be contacted through the Al Kharga tourist office. You are only allowed to be here until sunset.
Dakhla Oasis
%092 / Pop 90,000
With more than a dozen fertile hamlets sprinkled along the Western Desert circuit road, Dakhla lives up to most visitors’ romantic expectations of oasis life.
In Neolithic times, Dakhla was the site of a vast lake, and rock paintings show that elephants, zebras and ostriches wandered its shores. In Pharaonic times, Dakhla retained several settlements and was a fertile land producing wine, fruit and grains. The Romans, and later Christians, left their mark by building over older settlements, and during medieval times the towns were fortified to protect them from Bedouin and Arab raids. Al Qasr is the best preserved of these towns – and among the most enchanting places – anywhere in the Western Desert.
The slumping mud-brick villages and palmaries, speckled with hot springs, that surround Mut capture the essence of slow-paced oasis life and are some of the Western Desert’s most evocative sights.
Mut
At the centre of the oasis lies the town of Mut, named after the god Amun’s consort, settled since Pharaonic times. Now a modern Egyptian town of squat block concrete buildings, it has decent facilities and makes the most convenient base for travellers. You will, however, have a richer experience of Dakhla by staying in or around Al Qasr. Mut’s slumping old town remnants and the proximity of the palm groves help to give it a touch of charm – though only a touch.
Mut
2Activities, Courses & Tours
8Transport
1Sights
The labyrinth of mud-brick houses and lanes that winds up the slopes of the hill is definitely worth exploring, even if you may sometimes stumble into a trash heap.
Old Town of MutRuins
Old Mut’s visitors lived in fear of raiding Bedouin, so very few houses have outside windows, to protect against intruders and heat and dust. The labyrinthine streets had a similar purpose. On the top is Mut’s old citadel (the original town centre), with great views of the new town and the oasis, and the desert beyond.
Ethnographic MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-1484-4100, 012-2491-6379; Sharia As Salam; LE10; h on request)
These days Dakhla’s wonderful museum is only opened on request: ask at the tourist office (or call) and Omar Ahmad will arrange a time for your visit with the museum’s manager, Ibrahim Kamel. The museum is laid out as a traditional home, with different areas for men, women and visitors. Displays of clothing, baskets, jewellery and other domestic items give an insight into oasis life.
TTours
Most hotels can organise a tour of the oasis. A typical day trip includes a drive through the nearby dunes, a visit to a spring and a tour of Al Qasr with visits to Al Gedida and Qalamun, villages with Ottoman and modern houses, along the way. Prices start at around LE500 per car. Alternatively, Mut’s taxi drivers can drive you to outlying sights for around LE400 for a full day or LE200 for a half day. If you want to go further afield, check with the tourist office to confirm whether the person taking you has the necessary permits – Dakhla is one of the closest oases to Gilf Kebir, but permits to go there are no longer issued.
Bedouin Camp & El Dohous VillageOutdoors
( % 092-2785-0480, 010-622-1359; www.dakhlabedouins.com; Mut to Al Qasr Hwy, El Dohous; 2hr LE200, full day & overnight from LE1200)
The owners of this camp are Bedouin brothers and camel experts. They can arrange short camel trips into the desert around Dakhla, but the longer trips are no longer allowed.
4Sleeping
El Forsan HotelHotel $
( % 092-2782-1343; Sharia Al Wadi; s/d LE180/250, bungalow without air-con LE120/175; 
aW )
Ignore the creepy horror-movie corridor as you enter – El Forsan is the best budget deal in town. The place is well kept and even has duvets in the air-con rooms, while out back in the garden are domed, mud-brick (rather worn) bungalows. Friendly manager Zaqaria whips up great breakfasts.
Anwar HotelHotel$
( % 092-2782-0070; Sharia Basateen; s/d/tr from LE100/150/220; W )
Friendly Mr Anwar runs this family establishment with gusto and offers flexibly priced, relatively clean rooms with shared or private bathroom options. Noise from the nearby mosque can be an issue, and the younger Anwars are a bit overeager to sell their tours.
El Negoom HotelHotel$
(
% 092-2782-0014; s/d LE100/190; W )
On a quiet street behind the tourist office, north of Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra, this friendly hotel has a homey lobby and a span of sparsely furnished and rather old-fashioned but tidy little abodes with bathrooms – some even have TV.
Bedouin Camp & El Dohous VillageHotel $$
(
% 092-2785-0480, 010-0622-1359; www.dakhlabedouins.com; El Dohous; s/d half board LE250/400; pWs )
El Dohous Village, 3km from Mut centre, has a huge variety of domed and curvy rooms that give off good vibes, all decorated with local crafts. The hilltop restaurant has outstanding views, there are plenty of cushioned chill-out areas strewn about the place and there’s a hot spring on-site. The friendliness of the staff is just one more reason to stay.
5Eating
There is no fancy dining in Mut, but there is some decent, fresh food (mostly of the chicken/kebab/rice variety). Most falafel takeaways close by noon.
El Forsan CafeEgyptian$
(
% 092-282-1343; El Forsan Hotel, Sharia Al Wadi; meals LE40-60; v )
Behind El Forsan Hotel (you can walk through the hotel to enter), this surprisingly lush patch of grass is home to a garden cafe that serves up mammoth feasts of simple but fresh Egyptian flavours, including all manner of mahshi (stuffed vegetables) and the usual grilled meat. Locals hang out drinking tea here until the wee hours of the morning.
Ahmed Hamdy’s RestaurantEgyptian$
(
% 092-2782-0767; Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra; meals LE30-50)
On the main road into town is Ahmed Hamdy’s popular place serving delicious chicken, kebabs, vegetables and a few other small dishes inside or on the terrace. The freshly squeezed lime juice is excellent, as is the shisha.
Said ShihadEgyptian$
(Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra; meals LE30-55)
Owner Said is on to a good thing here: grilling up a nightly meat-centric feast to a dedicated following of hungry locals. The shish kebab is the thing to go for – perfectly succulent and served with potatoes in a tomato sauce, rice and beans.
Fateer Al WadiEgyptian$$
(Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra; mains LE40-70; h 6am-10pm)
Fresh-from-the-oven sweet or savoury fiteer (flaky pizza), made to order by a friendly crew.
8Information
Bank Misr (Sharia Al Wadi; h 8.30am-2pm Sun-Thu) Has an ATM, exchanges cash and makes cash advances on Visa and MasterCard.
Tourist Office ( % 092-2782-1685, mobile 010-0180-6127; Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra; h 8am-3pm) Friendly tourist office director Omar Ahmad can help with all your oasis queries.
Tourist Police ( % 092-2782-1687; Sharia 10th of Ramadan)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
From Mut’s bus station ( % 092-2782-4366; Sharia Al Wadi), Upper Egypt Bus Co runs buses to Cairo (LE115, 10 hours) via Al Kharga Oasis (LE25, two to three hours) and Asyut (LE70, five hours) at 7pm and 7.30pm.
You can also travel to Cairo via Farafra Oasis (LE35, four hours) and Bahariya Oasis (LE60, seven hours) at 8pm.
All buses pick up passengers from the bus station first and then at Midan Al Tahrir, across the roundabout from the bus booking office kiosk.
Microbus
At the time of writing foreign travellers were not allowed to take microbuses between the oases.
8Getting Around
Most places in Dakhla are linked by crowded pick-ups or microbuses, but working out where they all go requires a degree in astrophysics. Those heading to Al Qasr (LE2.50) depart from Sharia As Sawra Al Khadra. You can take pick-ups to Balat and Bashendi from in front of the hospital for LE2.50. Most others depart from the servees station on Sharia Tamir.
It may prove easier on occasion to bargain for a ‘special’ pick-up. A taxi to Al Qasr should cost LE100 with waiting time.
Around Mut
A few kilometres past the southern or western end of Mut you can have a roll around in sand dunes, which, while not the most spectacular in the desert, are easy to reach for people without their own transport (if on foot, count on at least an hour’s walk each way). Almost every hotel and restaurant in Mut offers day trips that include a sand-dune stop. Sunset camel rides out to the dunes can also be arranged. There is an inclusive ticket available for the sights in Al Dakhla (adult/student LE120/60).
Balat
For a captivating glimpse into life during medieval times, pay a visit to the Islamic village of Balat, 35km east of Mut. Built during the era of the Mamluks and Turks on a site that dates back to the Old Kingdom, charismatic winding lanes weave through low-slung corridors past Gaudí-like moulded benches. Palm fronds are still used for shelter as smoothly rounded walls ease into each other. The tiny doors here were designed to keep houses cool and confuse potential invaders. A guide will happily take you onto the roof of one of the three-storey mudbrick houses for commanding views (a small tip is expected).
1Sights
Qila Al DabbaRuins
(adult/student LE40/20; h 8.30am-4pm)
Qila Al Dabba is Balat’s ancient necropolis. The five mastabas (mud-brick structures above tombs that were the basis for later pyramids), the largest of which stands more than 10m high, date back to the 6th dynasty. Four are ruined, but one has been restored and is open to the public. To get here, take the dirt track that meets the main road 200m east of Balat and head north. The necropolis is 3.5km along the road, past Ain Al Asil.
Originally all five mastabas would have been clad in fine limestone, with three thought to have belonged to important Old Kingdom governors of the oasis. If the mastaba is locked, the site guardian can usually be found in the nearby buildings.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Balat, take a pick-up from near the general hospital in Mut (LE2).
Bashendi
This small village of picturesque mud-brick houses to the north of the main Dakhla–Al Kharga road takes its name from Pasha Hindi, the medieval sheikh buried nearby. Five Graeco-Roman tombs were discovered here in 1947, which put the village on the map.
1Sights
Tomb of Pasha HindiShrine
(adult/student incl Tomb of Kitines LE30/20; h 8.30am-4pm)
The Tomb of Pasha Hindi is covered by an Islamic-era dome, which sits over a Roman structure, clearly visible from inside the building. Locals make pilgrimages to pray for the saint’s intercession.
Tomb of KitinesTomb
(adult/student incl Tomb of Pasha Hindi LE30/20; h 8.30am-4pm)
This sandstone tomb was occupied by Senussi soldiers during WWI and by a village family after that. Nevertheless, some funerary reliefs have survived and show the 2nd-century AD notable meeting the gods Min, Seth and Shu.
Carpet-Making CooperativeCultural Centre
(LE3; h 9am-1pm Sun-Thu)
In Bashendi’s carpet-making cooperative you can see rugs being woven and browse through the showroom.
Rock CarvingsHistoric Site
Carved into the weird rock formations 45km towards Al Kharga, where two important caravan routes once met, are prehistoric petroglyphs of camels, giraffes and tribal symbols. The site has recently suffered from the attentions of less-scrupulous travellers who have all but ruined most of these curious images with their own graffiti. 4WD and a good driver are necessary to get here.
8Getting There & Away
It is easiest to take a taxi from Mut, or try the occasional minibus going in Bashendi’s direction.
Al Qasr
One of the must-see sights in the western oases is the extraordinary medieval/Ottoman town of Al Qasr, which lies on the edge of lush vegetation at the foot of pink limestone cliffs marking the northern edge of the oasis. Portions of the old village have been thoughtfully restored to provide a glimpse of how other oasis towns looked before the New Valley development projects had their way with them; the effect is pure magic. Several hundred people still live in the town that not so long ago was home to several thousand.
Al Qasr is also a prime spot to romp around in the desert without a guide. Just north of town the plateau is textured with shallow, sandy wadis (valleys or dry riverbeds) that weave around rocky benches and weirdly hewn hills. The ground is littered with fossils, including sharks’ teeth.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
KNOW YOUR DUNES
Classification of sand dune shapes was made in the 1970s, when scientists examined photographs of dune fields taken from space. Of the five typical shapes, four are found in Egypt.
Seif
Named for the Arabic word for sword, these long dunes form parallel to the prevailing wind. They are primarily found in the Great Sand Sea and the northern Western Desert. Usually on the move, they will even fall down an escarpment, reforming at its base.
Barchan
These are crescent-shaped dunes, with a slip face on one side. They are as wide as they are long and are usually found in straight lines with flat corridors between them. They can travel as far as 19m in one year. They are predominant in Al Kharga and Dakhla Oases and in the Great Sand Sea.
Star
Created by wind blowing in different directions, these dunes are usually found alone. Instead of moving, they tend to build up within a circle. They are rare in Egypt.
Crescent
These hill-like dunes, also called whale-back dunes, form when smaller dunes collide and piggyback on one another. With their sides pointing in different directions, these distinctive shapes can be seen between Al Kharga and Dakhla Oases.
1Sights
Al Qasr’s mud-brick maze of an old town is built on the ancient foundations of a Roman city and is thought to be one of the oldest inhabited areas of the oases. Most of what you can see today dates to the Ottoman period (1516–1798), although the creaky, picturesque labyrinth of narrow, covered streets harks back to its ancient origins. During its heyday, this was probably the capital of the Dakhla Oasis, easily protected by barring the fort’s quartered streets.
The winding lanes manage to remain cool in the scalding summer and also serve to protect their inhabitants from desert sandstorms. Entrances to old houses can be clearly seen and some are marked by beautiful lintels – acacia beams situated above the door. Carved with the names of the carpenter and the owner of the house, the date and a verse from the Quran, these decorative touches are wonderfully preserved. The size of the houses here and the surviving fragments of decoration suggest a puzzling level of wealth and importance given to this town by the Ottomans.
There are 37 lintels in the village, the earliest of which dates to the early 16th century. One of the finest is above the Tomb of Sheikh Nasr Ad Din inside the old mosque, which is marked by a restored 12th-century mud-brick minaret. Adjoining it is Nasr Ad Din Mosque, with a 21m-high minaret. Several buildings have been renovated, including the old madrassa, a school where Islamic law was taught and which doubled as a town hall and courthouse: prisoners were tied to a stake near the entrance.
Also of interest is the restored House of Abu Nafir. A dramatic pointed arch at the entrance frames a huge studded wooden door. Built of mud brick, and on a grander scale than the surrounding houses, it incorporates massive blocks from an earlier structure, possibly a Ptolemaic temple, decorated with hieroglyphic reliefs.
Other features of the town include the pottery factory, a blacksmith’s forge, a waterwheel, an olive press and a huge old corn mill that has been fully restored to function with Flintstone-like efficiency when its shaft is rotated. Near the entrance is the Ethnographic Museum (LE20; h 9am-sunset). Occupying Sherif Ahmed’s house, which itself dates back to 1785, the museum’s everyday objects try to give life to the empty buildings around them.
The Supreme Council for Antiquities has taken responsibility for the town, but doesn’t charge an entrance fee. It’s helpful to hook up with one of the Antiquities guards (if they’re about) for a tour; they will expect a ‘donation’ of LE10. There are signposts scattered around the alleys but some of the highlights are tricky to find. A note to photographers: midday is actually a good time to take pictures here, since that’s when the most light penetrates the canyon-like corridors.
For what may be the most sweeping vistas in any of the oases, hike to the top of the high bluffs that rise from the plateau – just choose the massive ramp of sand that looks most promising and trek on up! Running back down hundreds of feet of sand is an instant regression to childhood glee. From Al Qasr, it takes about two hours to reach the top, and longer if you dawdle, so bring enough water and snacks for the round trip. If the moon is full, set out before sunset and return by moonlight.
If you have your own vehicle, or driver, there are a handful of sights on the secondary road between Al Qasr and Mut that are worthy of a visit. The ruined village of Amhadah has several tombs nearby dating from the 2nd century. Further along towards Mut, the road passes through the sleepy villages of Al Gedida and Qalamun, both of which are home to plenty of traditional mud-brick architecture.
Bir Al GabalSpring
(LE30)
Set among breathtaking desert scenery, Bir Al Gabal is a gorgeous place for a soak. During the day in winter and spring any ambience here is overwhelmed by day-tripping school groups and blaring music. Come in the evening when most people have left and the stars blaze across the sky. A sign marks the turn-off 20km north of Mut, from where it’s about another 5km to the springs. It is now part of the Camp Bir Al Gabal.
If you do arrive during a busy period, there’s a more serene natural spring about 500m before Bir Al Gabal on the right, concealed behind a brick pump house.
4Sleeping
Al Qasr HotelHostel $
(
% 092-2787-6013; Main Hwy; r with shared bathroom LE90)
This old backpacker favourite sits above a cafe-restaurant on the main highway through Al Qasr. Rooms are as basic as they get, but there’s a breezy upstairs communal sitting area where you can play games or relax, and for LE15 you can sleep on a mattress on the roof. Owner Mohamed has a long history of fine hospitality.
Camp Bir Al GabalGuesthouse$
(
% 012-1043-3045; s/d LE160/200; pWs )
This guesthouse has 12 simple domed rooms with clean bathrooms in mud-brick chalets. The chalets are set in a delightful garden on the edge of the desert, but the real attraction is the hot spring Bir Al Gabal. Mud treatments are available on request. Spectacular surroundings.
oSosal Center for Ethnic Arts and CraftsGuesthouse$$
( % 012-2323-2247; www.mervetazmi.com; r per person LE250; pW )
This lovely villa with five bedrooms is a delightful place to stay for a few days. The house has a kitchen, comfortable living room with a fireplace, and a garden for common use. Next door is a basketry-weaving workshop. The place is self-catering, but breakfast (LE25), lunch (LE85) and dinner (LE95) can be arranged by women from the village nearby.
This is a great place to go for walks in the village, the countryside and the nearby sand dunes. It’s next door to the Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary. The owner Mervat likes guests to spend an hour a day interacting with the villagers by drawing, playing football, chatting and other similar activities.
oAl Tarfa Desert SanctuaryBoutique Hotel $$$
(
% 092-2785-1492, 010-0100-1109; www.altarfa.net; Al Qasr; s/d full board €360/440; pWs )
Taking the high end to unheard-of heights in Dakhla, Al Tarfa is flat-out desert-fabulous. The traditionally inspired decor is superbly tasteful and impeccably rendered, down to the smallest detail – from the embroidered bedspreads that look like museum-quality pieces to the mud-plastered walls that don’t show a single crack. Private transfers to the hotel’s isolated site, north of Al Qasr, can be arranged.
Even the golden dunes that flow behind the resort seem like they’ve been landscaped to undulating perfection. Each suite is unique, the pool is like a liquid sapphire and the spa features massage therapists brought in from Thailand.
Desert LodgeBoutique Hotel $$$
(
% 092-2772-7061, 02-2690-5240; www.desertlodge.net; s/d/tr half board US$90/150/210; is )
This thoughtfully designed, ecofriendly mud-brick fortress of a lodge crowns the hilltop at the eastern edge of Al Qasr, overlooking the old town. Rooms are decorated in minimalist desert style incorporating tranquil pastel blues, pinks and greens. The restaurant is adequate, and there is also a bar, a private hot spring and a painting studio on the desert’s edge.
8Getting There & Away
Pick-ups to Al Qasr leave from opposite Said Shihad restaurant in Mut and cost LE2. Alternatively, take a microbus from Mut’s microbus stand (LE2).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
ETIQUETTE FOR A SPRING SOAK
There’s nothing better after a day’s rambling along the dusty tracks of the oases or through the hot desert sands than a soak in one of the many natural springs.
If you’re planning to bathe in the public waterholes that speckle the oases, it’s important to be mindful of generally accepted spring etiquette:
A If local men are bathing, women should wait until they finish before entering the water.
A At springs within towns, women should wear a baggy T-shirt and shorts or, preferably, pants over their bathing suit. Use your best (conservative) judgment, and don’t swim if the vibe is leery.
A Men should leave the Speedos at home.
Deir Al Haggar & Around
Deir Al HaggarTemple
(adult/student LE40/20; h 8.30am-5pm)
This restored sandstone temple is one of the most complete Roman monuments in Dakhla. Dedicated to the Theban triad of Amun, Mut and Khons, as well as Horus (who can be seen with a falcon’s head), it was built between the reigns of Nero (AD 54–68) and Domitian (AD 81–96). Some relief panels are quite well preserved, though most are covered in bird poop.
If you look carefully in the adjacent Porch of Titus you can see the names of the entire team of Gerhard Rohlfs, the 19th-century desert explorer, carved into the wall. Also visible are the names of famous desert travellers Edmonstone, Drovetti and Houghton.
The temple is signposted 7km west of Al Qasr; from the turn-off it’s a further 5km.
oQarat Al MuzawwaqaTomb
(2km before Deir Al Haggar; adult/student LE40/20; h 8am-5pm)
These tombs were rediscovered by the Egyptian archaeologist Ahmed Fakri in 1971 and some have since been restored, including the tomb of Oziri (Petosiris) and Badi Baset (Petubastis), the only ones open to the public. Featuring spectacular colours and zodiac ceilings, they are particularly interesting for their crossover between Graeco-Roman and Pharaonic styles.
More than 200 mummies were found here, but it seems the 19th-century travellers were quite happy to take them away as souvenirs.
Farafra Oasis
%092 / Pop 21,930
Blink and you might just miss dusty Farafra, the smallest of the Western Desert’s oases. Its exposed location made it prone to frequent attacks by Libyans and Bedouin tribes, many of whom eventually settled in the oasis and now make up much of the population. In recent years, the government has been increasing its efforts to revitalise this region, and the production of olives, dates, apricots, guavas, figs, oranges, apples and sunflowers is slowly growing. The original population of Farfarunis, about 9000, has more than doubled with an influx of Egyptians from the Nile Valley to work in agriculture.
Since the 2011 revolution, few tourists make it to Farafra, preferring to arrange the White Desert trip in Bahariya, making Farafra a very sleepy place indeed.
Qasr Al Farafra
The only real town in Farafra Oasis, Qasr Al Farafra remains a barely developed speck on the Western Desert circuit. The town’s tumbledown Roman fortress was originally built to guard this part of the desert caravan route, though these days all it has to show for it is a mound of rubble. Some small mud-brick houses still stand in the back alleys, their doorways secured with medieval peg locks and their walls painted with verses of the Quran.
The main reason for a stopover here is a trip to the White Desert (Sahra Al Beida), but independent travellers will find tours much easier to organise from Bahariya Oasis.
Qasr Al Farafra
1Top Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
8Transport
1Sights
Take a stroll through the palm gardens just west of ‘downtown’. They’re truly lovely, and full of activity during the date harvest (September/October).
oBadr’s MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 092-751-0091; off Sharia Al Mardasa; donation LE20; h 8.30am-sunset)
Badr Abdel Moghny is a passionate self-taught artist whose gift to his town has become its only real sight. Badr’s Museum showcases his work, much of which records traditional oasis life but in the most inventive way. Badr, who seems unstoppable, continues to experiment, adding a sculpture garden on his roof and working with pigments found in his surroundings.
His distinctive style of painting and sculpture in mud, stone and sand has won him foreign admirers; he exhibited successfully in Europe in the early 1990s and later in Cairo.
Bir SittaSpring
(Well No 6)
This sulphurous hot spring 6km west of Qasr Al Farafra is a popular pit-stop. Water gushes into a jacuzzi-sized concrete pool and then spills out into a larger tank. This is a good place for a night-time soak under the stars.
Ain BishaySpring
The Roman spring of Ain Bishay bubbles forth in the desert 10km southwest of Qasr Al Farafra. It has been developed into an irrigated grove of date palms together with citrus, olive, apricot and carob trees, and is a cool haven.
Abu Nuss LakeLake
During the stifling heat of summer, a plunge in Abu Nuss Lake offers instant relief from hot and sweaty afternoons. There’s some interesting bird life here, too. The turn-off for the lake is approximately 11km north of Qasr Al Farafra along the main road to Dakhla.
TTours
Farafra is nearer than Bahariya to the White Desert, but there is a very limited choice of desert outfits. A dearth of tourists since the 2011 revolution also means that it’s not likely independent travellers will find others to hook up with for a tour. The Al Badawiya and Rahala Safari hotels can usually organise excursions around Farafra and the White Desert, with prices starting at around LE1000 per vehicle; however, with the tourism slow-down it would be prudent to contact them before your arrival to check prices and tour possibilities.
4Sleeping
oRahala Safari HotelHotel $
( % 092-251-0440, 010-0306-4733; www.rahala-safari.com; s/d LE200/250; paW )
This small, delightful hotel was built by the Farafaruni brothers, with domed rooms all equipped with TV, air-con, wi-fi and bathrooms. The rooms are set around a courtyard and the restaurant is Arab style, serving home-cooked food. The extremely helpful hosts also organise expert trips in the desert around the White and Black Deserts. Very warm welcome.
Beit Ad Diyafa Al AsdiqaGuesthouse$
(Badr’s Guesthouse; MAP; % 01-2170-4710, 092-751-0091; Goshna; per person incl food & desert safari LE500; pW )
Badr Abdel Moghny, the man who created Badr’s Museum, had another dream: to make a small guesthouse where creative people can find a peaceful home away from home. This mud-brick house has six cosy rooms set in a delightful garden with local fruit trees and cacti. There’s also a large room with space to create.
Al Waha HotelHotel$
(
% 012-2720-0387; off Sharia Al Mardasa; r LE75, with shared bathroom LE60)
This small, spartan hotel has acceptably clean, well-worn rooms with faux-oriental rugs. In summer the cement walls throb with heat. Newer, more comfortable rooms with kitchens and bathrooms are being prepared for when the tourists return.
Al Badawiya Safari & HotelHotel$$
(% 092-751-0060; www.badawiya.com; Bahariya-Dakhla Rd; s/d/tr €30/40/50, ste €40-75; pWs )
The brothers who run Al Badawiya dominate Farafra tourism with their hotel and safari outfit. Comfortable domed rooms have plenty of traditional Bedouin style, though they could do with a lick of maintenance. There’s a refreshing (albeit small) pool and a restaurant. The White and Western Desert tours are thoroughly professional.
5Eating
Eating choices are limited in Farafra. Anyone looking for a change from the chicken/grilled meat combo is pretty much out of luck. Al Badawiya Safari & Hotel also has a restaurant.
Samir RestaurantEgyptian$
(Sharia Al Balad; meals LE30-50; h 10am-11pm)
Samir’s is the most atmospheric choice of Farafra’s admittedly few dining options. Set meals of grilled meat and chicken are the same as the other restaurants in town, but your table comes complete with the fine-dining flourish of a tablecloth.
Al ChefEgyptian$
(
% 010-2725-84374; Ad Da’ira Al Gadid; dishes LE20-45; h noon-midnight)
Road-stop restaurant on the way to Dakhla serving good basics like chicken, kofta, stews and vegetables. Very lurid decor.
7Shopping
Farafra BazaarArts & Crafts
(
% 012-8615-2165, 010-2514-5062; opposite Badr’s Museum)
Hany has just about the only crafts shop left in these oases. He sells goat-wool, hand-knitted sweaters and socks, rag rugs, pottery and jewellery, all handmade.
8Information
For tourist information, contact Mohsen Abdel Monem at the tourist office (p277) in Mut (Dakhla).
Bank Misr (Bahariya–Dakhla Rd; h 9am-2pm Sun-Thu) Has an ATM, though best not to depend on it.
Tourist Police (Sharia Al Mishtafa Nakhaz) No telephone.
Dangers & Annoyances
The tourist police are strict in Farafra and check everybody coming in and out of the oasis. The official line is that foreigners should only stay in Al Badawiya Safari & Hotel, but in reality you can stay wherever you like.
8Getting There & Away
There are Upper Egypt Bus Co buses from Farafra to Cairo (LE105, eight to 10 hours) via Bahariya (LE30, three hours) at 10am and 10pm. Buses from Farafra to Dakhla (LE30, four hours) originate in Cairo and leave around 2pm or 3pm and around 2am. Tickets are bought from the conductor.
Foreigners are not allowed to travel between oases on microbuses. You must take a bus or taxi.
Farafra Oasis to Bahariya Oasis
Al Hayz
With a natural spring to cool off in and an interesting local museum where tours are given in Arabic and English, the small oasis of Al Hayz, 45km south of Bawiti, is a welcome break on the road between Farafra and Bahariya.
oAin GommaSpring
Ain Gomma is one of the most magnificent springs around. Cool, crystal-clear water gushes into this small pool surrounded by the vast desert expanse, and the funkiest cafe in all of the oases sits beside it. Situated near the town of Al Hayz, you can take a Dakhla-bound bus here, but it’s difficult to get back without your own transport. Many safari trips to the White Desert will stop here en route.
oAl Hayz Water Education CenterMuseum
(www.facebook.com/El-Heiz-Water-Education-Center-726503367516623; Al Hayz Oasis; adult/student LE15/10; h 10am-4pm)
This water museum is a real treat, with an informative introduction to Egypt’s water resources and problems, the geology of the Western Desert, traditional agriculture and architecture in the oases, and what needs to be done to deal with water shortage. The museum is housed in a wonderful example of sustainable architecture, in basalt and rammed earth.
Black Desert
The change in the desert floor from beige to black, 50km south of Bawiti, signals the beginning of the Black Desert (Sahra Suda). Formed by the erosion of the mountains, which have spread a layer of black powder and stones over the peaks and plateaus, it looks like a landscape straight out of Hades. The Black Desert is a popular stop-off for tours running out of Bahariya Oasis and is usually combined with a White Desert tour.
Other sights in the region include Gebel Gala Siwa, a pyramid-shaped mountain that was formerly a lookout post for caravans coming from Siwa, and Gebel Az Zuqaq, a mountain known for the red, yellow and orange streaks in its limestone base. There is an easily climbed path leading to the mountain’s peak.
DON’T MISS
Egypt’s Mind-Bending White Desert
Upon first glimpse of the 300-sq-km White Desert National Park (Sahra Al Beida; US$5), you’ll feel like Alice through the looking-glass. About 20km northeast of Farafra, on the east side of the road, blinding-white chalk rock spires sprout almost supernaturally from the ground, each frost-coloured lollipop licked into a surreal landscape of familiar and unfamiliar shapes by the dry desert winds.
These sculptural formations are best viewed at sunrise or sunset, when the sun lights them with orangey-pink hues, or under a full moon, which gives the landscape a ghostly Arctic appearance. The sand around the outcroppings is littered with quartz and different varieties of deep-black iron pyrites, as well as small fossils. On the west side of the Farafra–Bahariya highway, away from the wind-hewn sculptures, chalk towers called inselbergs burst from the desert floor into a spectacular white canyon. Between them run grand boulevards of sand, like geologic Champs-Élysées. No less beautiful than the east side of the road, the shade and privacy here makes it a great area to camp.
About 50km north are two flat-topped mountains known as the Twin Peaks, a key navigation point for travellers. A favourite destination of local tour operators, the view from the top of the surrounding symmetrical hills, all shaped like giant ant-hills, is spectacular. Just beyond here, the road climbs a steep escarpment known as Naqb As Sillim (Pass of the Stairs); this is the main pass that leads into and out of the Farafra depression and marks the end of the White Desert.
A few kilometres further along, the desert floor changes again and becomes littered with quartz crystals. If you look at the rock formations in this area you’ll see that they are also largely made of crystal. The most famous of the formations is the Crystal Mountain, actually a large rock made entirely of quartz. It sits right beside the main road some 24km north of Naqb As Sillim, and is easily recognisable by the large hole through its middle.
At the time of writing, foreigners were officially no longer allowed to camp overnight in the desert, but in reality many people do. The tourist police turn a blind eye, but it pays to do the trip with an experienced safari outfit. As well as the national park entry fee, you pay a LE20 fee for each night you sleep here. If you come as part of a group, the fees are included in your tour. You can usually buy tickets at the entrance to the park, but don’t worry about going in without one; you can just pay the rangers when they find you. Sleeping anywhere in the park, surrounded by the white formations and visited by friendly fennecs, is an unforgettable experience.
8Getting There & Away
Ordinary vehicles are able to drive the first kilometre or so off the Bahariya–Dakhla road into the White or Black Deserts, but only 4WD vehicles can advance deeper into either area. Some travellers simply get off the bus and take themselves into the White Desert – but be sure you have adequate supplies, and remember that traffic between the neighbouring oases is rarely heavy. The megaliths west of the highway are easy to access by foot, as are the so-called mushrooms to the east; the weirdest wonderland of white hoodoos is quite far to the east, and walking there would be a real haul. Bir Regwa, a small spring situated along the highway at one of the park entrances, usually has water; it’s good to know where it is (just in case), though best not to rely on it.
Even though it is not allowed to camp or go into the desert, the tourist police turns a blind eye to safari outfits in Bahariya organising short trips to the Black and White Deserts.
Bawiti
%02 / Pop 35.860
Take one look at Bawiti’s dusty, unappealing main road, and you’ll wonder why you came. But scratch beneath the surface and you will find a town of great charm. Stroll through its fertile palm groves, soak in one of the many hot springs or explore its quiet backstreets, where you’ll meet truly hospitable people.
For many years, Bawiti was a quiet town dependent on agriculture. More recently, it became a tourist hub for trips to the White and Black Deserts, with the Golden Mummies an added draw. At the time of writing, however, it was quiet again, with many hotels closed and few travel agents operating. Everyone is waiting for tourism to the desert to return.
Bahariya Oasis
Bahariya is one of the more fetching of the desert circuit oases, and at just 365km from Cairo it’s also the most accessible. Much of the oasis floor here is covered by sprawling shady date palms and speckled with dozens of natural springs, which beg to be plunged into. The surrounding landscape of rocky, sandy mesas is a grand introduction to the Western Desert’s barren beauty.
During the Middle Kingdom and especially during Roman times, the oasis was a centre of agriculture, producing wine sold in the Nile Valley and as far away as Rome. Its strategic location on the Libya–Nile Valley caravan routes ensured it prospered also throughout later ages. In recent years, stunning archaeological finds, such as that of the Golden Mummies, and easy access to the White and Black Deserts have earned Bahariya a firm spot on the tourist map.
Bawiti
1Sights
1Sights
Qarat Qasr SalimArchaeological Site
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Yusef Salim; Bawiti joint site ticket adult/student LE100/50; h 8.30am-4pm)
This small mound amid the houses of Bawiti is likely built upon centuries of debris. There are two well-preserved 26th-dynasty tombs here, which were robbed in antiquity and reused as collective burial sites in Roman times. Both are home to some excellently preserved and colourful wall paintings.
The rock-cut Tomb of Zed Amun Ef Ankh gives a glimpse of Bahariya in its heyday, the vibrant tomb paintings hinting at the wealth of its former occupant. Next to it lies the Tomb of Bannentiu, Zed Amun Ef Ankh’s son. Consisting of a four-columned burial chamber with an inner sanctuary, it is covered in fine reliefs depicting Bannentiu with the god Khons and goddesses Isis and Nephthys.
Golden Mummies MuseumMuseum
(Al Mathaf; MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Mathaf; Bawiti joint site ticket adult/student LE100/50; h 8am-4pm)
Only 10 of Bahariya’s richly decorated cache of 10,000 mummies are exhibited here. While the motifs are formulaic and the work is second-rate, the painted faces show a move away from stylised Pharaonic mummy decoration towards Fayoum portraiture. Underneath the wrappings, the embalmers’ work appears to have been sloppy, so these mummies mark the beginning of the end of mummification.
The exhibit embodies that spirit and is entirely underwhelming. The museum doesn’t have a sign. Look for the building resembling a wartime bunker behind a low cream-coloured wall topped with guard turrets. The ticket office (for all of Bawiti’s sites) is just inside the entrance gate.
Oasis Heritage MuseumMuseum
(
% 012-0225-0595, 02-3847-3666; Bahariya-Cairo Rd; LE15; h hours vary, call ahead)
The giant sandcastle-looking-thing, 3km east of town on the road to Cairo, is Mahmoud Eed’s Oasis Heritage Museum. Inspired by Badr’s Museum in Farafra, its creator captures, in clay, scenes from traditional village life, among them men hunting, women weaving and a painful-looking barber/doctor encounter. There’s also a display of old oasis dresses and jewellery.
Sadly, Mahmoud Eed has died, leaving the exhibit very dusty and a bit in disarray.
Your Ticket to Antiquities
Bahariya’s authorities issue a one-day ticket that gives entry to five of the Bahariya Oasis’ ancient sites: the Golden Mummies Museum, the Tomb of Zed Amun Ef Ankh, the Tomb of Bannentiu, the Temple of Ain Al Muftella and the Temple of Alexander. Tickets are available at the museum’s ticket office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Al Mathaf; h 8am-4pm), so stop there first. Yup, you gotta pay for ’em all, even if you only visit one.
4Sleeping
There is a decent selection of budget and mid-priced hotels in Bawiti, although quite a few are now closed for lack of business. If you want to catch the mellow oasis vibe, head for one of the camps outside of town.
New Oasis HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-2847-4171; s/d LE150/240, without air-con LE140/180; aW )
A study in curvaceous construction, this small, homey hotel has several teardrop-shaped rooms, some with balconies overlooking the expansive palm groves nearby. Inside, the rooms are in good shape, though someone seems to have been a little overzealous with the powder-blue paint. It’s one of the nicer budget options in town, located next to El Beshmo spring.
Desert Safari HomeHotel$
(MAP; % 012-2731-3908; www.desertsafarihome.com; s/d LE100/150; i )
This decent budget option is inconveniently located 2km from the centre of town but has good rooms. Owner Badry Khozam willingly picks up guests from the bus station.
Western Desert HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-2301-2155; www.westerndeserthotel.com; Sharia Safaya; s/d LE205/320; W )
Right in the middle of town, this concrete block has well-kept rooms with powerful air-con and beds that even boast two sheets. It’s a solid, safe choice with a supremely convenient location. When it’s not busy, you’ll get a discount if you ask. At the time of writing the lack of clientele made the place look quite desolate.
BAHARIYA’S GOLDEN MUMMY CACHE
Put it down to the donkey: until 1996, no one had any idea of the extent of Bahariya’s archaeological treasure trove. Then a donkey stumbled on a hole near the temple of Alexander the Great, and its rider saw the face of a golden mummy peering out through the sand. Or so the story goes. (Some locals wink knowingly at what they assert is a much popularised myth.) Nevertheless, since then archaeologists have done extensive research in a cemetery that stretches over 3 sq km. Radar has revealed more than 10,000 mummies, and excavation has unearthed more than 250 of them in what has come to be called the Valley of the Golden Mummies.
These silent witnesses of a bygone age could shed new light on life in this part of Egypt during the Graeco-Roman period, a 600-year interlude marking the transition between the Pharaonic and Christian eras. Bahariya was then a thriving oasis and, with its rich, fertile land watered by natural springs, was a famous producer of wheat and wine. Greek and, later, Roman families set up home here and became a kind of expatriate elite.
Research has shown that after a brief decline when Ptolemies and Romans fought for control of the oasis, Roman administrators embarked on a major public works program, expanding irrigation systems, digging wells, restoring aqueducts and building roads. Thousands of mud-brick buildings sprang up throughout the oasis. Bahariya became a major source of grain for the empire and was home to a large garrison of troops; its wealth grew proportionately. Researchers are hoping that continued excavation of the necropolis will provide more answers about the region’s early history and its inhabitants.
5Eating
The market area on Sharia Misr houses several good and cheap roasted chicken and kebab joints that fire up after dusk. Fresh veggies can be found along the street near Sharia Misr. As for restaurants, the scene is feeble.
RashedEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Misr; meals LE30-45; h noon-midnight)
Big and clean, Rashed serves set multicourse meals that revolve around the usual meaty grill options. Head east for about 400m from the tourist information building, along the main road, to find it.
Popular RestaurantEgyptian$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-847-2239; Sharia Safaya; set meals LE50-60; h 8am-11pm)
Popular is Bawiti’s main restaurant option, but standards have slipped and their set meals are now hugely overpriced. On a good note, the service is superfriendly and there’s ice cold beer.
8Information
Hospital (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-3847-0647) Only for emergencies, otherwise head to Cairo.
National Bank of Development (MAP GOOGLE MAP; off Sharia Misr; h 9am-2pm Sun-Thu) Has an ATM and changes cash.
Tourist Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-3847-3035, 02-3847-2167; Sharia Misr; h 8.30am-2pm Sat-Thu) Run by the friendly Yehia Kandeel, who can also be contacted on 012-2321-6790.
Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-3847-6167; Sharia Misr)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
From the bus ticket kiosk (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-3847-3610; Sharia Misr; h 9am-1pm & 7-11pm) near the post office, Upper Egypt Bus Co has services to Cairo (LE85, five hours) at 6am, 8am, 10am and 3pm. They are often full, so it’s strongly advisable to buy tickets the day before travelling. There are two more Cairo-bound buses that originate in Dakhla and pass through Bawiti around noon and midnight, stopping at the Hilal Coffeehouse (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Misr) at the western end of town. Tickets can only be bought on the bus, so hope for a seat.
If you are heading to Farafra (LE30, two hours) and Dakhla (LE50, four to five hours) you can hop on one of the buses headed that way from Cairo. They leave Bahariya around noon from the ticket office.
Microbus
Travel by microbus between the oases was not allowed for foreigners at the time of writing.
Around Bawiti
A number of sights in Bahariya can be included as part of a tour by the many safari operators in Bawiti. Some can also be done on foot, if the weather is cool. The main attraction, however, is the surrounding desert scenery.
1Sights
Gebel Al IngleezMountain
Clearly visible from the road to Cairo, flat-topped Gebel Al Ingleez, also known as Black Mountain, takes its name from a WWI lookout post. From here Captain Williams, a British officer, monitored the movements of Libyan Senussi tribesmen. But the real reason to come up here is for the fantastic panoramic views, which roll out across the oasis and to the desert beyond.
At the top are the modest remains of Captain William’s lookout post. Head here to watch sunset for the most atmospheric experience. A dirt track winds up to a plateau near the top, from where a footpath leads across the ridge to the summit (about a five-minute walk).
Gebel DistMountain
Gebel Dist is an impressive pyramid-shaped mountain visible from most of the oasis. A local landmark, it is famous for its fossils; dinosaur bones were found here in the early 20th century, disproving the previously held theory that dinosaurs only lived in North America. In 2001 researchers from the University of Pennsylvania found the remains of a giant specimen, Paralititan stromeri.
The discovery of this huge herbivore, which the team deduced was standing on the edge of a tidal channel when it died 94 million years ago, makes it likely that Bahariya was once a swamp similar to the Florida Everglades in the US.
About 100m away is Gebel Maghrafa (Mountain of the Ladle).
Temple of Ain Al MuftellaTemple
(Bawiti joint site ticket adult/student LE100/50; h 8am-4pm)
Four 26th-dynasty chapels, approximately 2km northwest of Bawiti, together form the Temple of Ain Al Muftella. The bulk of the building was ordered by 26th-dynasty high priest Zed-Khonsu-ef-ankh, whose tomb (closed to the public) has been discovered under houses in Bawiti. Archaeologists suspect that the chapels could have been built during the New Kingdom, significantly expanded during the Late Period, and added to during Greek and Roman times.
All have been restored and given wooden roofs to protect them from the elements.
Qarat Al HilwaRuins
(Bawiti joint site ticket adult/student LE100/50; h 8am-4pm)
This ancient necropolis includes the 18th-dynasty Tomb of Amenhotep Huy. Overall it’s a rather uninspiring site that will only interest the most avid of archaeology fans.
Temple of AlexanderTemple
(Bawiti joint site ticket adult/student LE100/50; h 8am-4pm)
The Temple of Alexander, southwest of Bawiti, is one of the few places in Egypt where Alexander the Great’s cartouche has been found. Despite this fame, the site itself is small and unimpressive.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BAHARIYA WHITE & BLACK DESERT TOURS
Business is slow in the Egyptian oases these days and many tour operators have gone out of business, or left the oasis. The hotels that are still open offer tours, as do some travel agents in Cairo.
A typical itinerary will take you to the sights in and around Bahariya – Temple of Alexander, Temple of Ain Al Muftella, Gebel Dist and Gebel Al Ingleez – then out through the Black Desert, with a stop at the Crystal Mountain and then into the White Desert.
A full day exploring the local sights of Bahariya is about LE1000; a half-day Black Desert trip costs LE500; a one-night camping trip into the White Desert will cost about LE1600. Remember, cheaper isn’t always better. A reliable car and driver are well worth a few extra pounds. Before signing up, check vehicles to make sure they’re roadworthy; confirm how much food and drink is supplied (and what this will be).
Many cheap Cairo hotels and hostels push their White Desert tours, but it’s a much better idea to arrange things in Bawiti, where you can meet the people who will be responsible for your experience before forking over any cash. There are some well-established local safari outfits.
White Desert Tours ( % 012-2321-2179; www.whitedeserttours.com; International Hot Spring Hotel) Operating since 1995, this German-owned tour company specialises in the White Desert and the area around Bahariya Oasis, but can also tailor-make multiday safaris when they are allowed again.
Eden Garden Tours ( % 010-0071-0707; www.edengardentours.com; Eden Garden Camp; US$50-60 per person per day) This local tour operator’s White Desert tours have been highly recommended by travellers.
Natural Springs
El JaffaraSpring
A few kilometres south of the Bahariya–Cairo road, about 7km from Bawiti, lies the mini-oasis of El Jaffara, where two springs – one hot, one cold – make this a prime spot in winter or summer. It’s near Eden Garden Camp.
Bir Al MattarSpring
At Bir Al Mattar, 7km northeast of Bawiti, cold springs pour into a viaduct and then down into a concrete pool, which you can splash in during the hot summer months. As with all Bawiti’s springs, the mineral content is high, and the water can stain clothing.
Bir Al RamlaSpring
(MAP)
The sulphurous spring of Bir Al Ramla, 3km north of town, is very hot (45°C) and suitable for a soak, though you may feel a bit exposed to the donkey traffic passing to and fro. Women should stay well covered.
4Sleeping
Badr’s Sahara CampHut $
(
% 012-2792-2728; www.badrysaharacamp.com; dm/s/d/tr US$8/12/15/27; p )
A couple of kilometres from Bawiti, Badr’s Sahara Camp has a handful of bucolic, African-influenced huts, each with two beds and small patios out front, some with air-con or fans. Hot water and electricity can’t always be counted on, but cool desert breezes and knockout views of the oasis valley can. Pick-ups are available.
The atmosphere is helpful and relaxed, and there are great views from the terrace over the oasis’ palm groves. Perfect to watch the sunset.
oEden Garden CampHut$$
(
% 010-0071-0707; www.edengardentours.com; hut per person with half board LE220, bungalow per person full board US$35)
Located 7km east of Bawiti, in the small, serene oasis of El Jaffara, Eden Garden is a superfriendly place with African-style huts, shaded lounge areas, fresh food and, best of all, two springs just outside its gates: one hot and one cold. Talaat, the owner who conceived the whole place, is a character.
This camp, with the garden and the springs, is a perfect place to wind down. Its desert safaris have a good reputation and pick-ups from Bawiti are free. You can come and hang out here for a swim, a meal (LE50 to LE150), tea and shisha or a beer.
International Hot Spring HotelHotel$$
(
% 012-2321-2179, 02-3847-3014; www.whitedeserttours.com; s/d with half board US$50/80; pWs )
About 3km outside Bawiti on the road to Cairo, this spa resort has 36 very comfortable rooms and eight chalets, built around a hot spring and set in a delightful garden. There’s also a rooftop lounge and a good restaurant, as well as Peter’s Bar. The owner Peter Wirth is an old Western Desert hand and organises recommended trips in the area.
Nature CampBungalow$$
(
% 012-2165-3037; naturecamps@hotmail.com; Bir Al Ghaba; r half board per person US$25; pWs )
At the foot of Gebel Dist, 17km north of Bawiti, Nature Camp sets new standards for environmentally focused budget accommodation. The peaceful cluster of candlelit and intricately designed thatch huts looks out onto the expansive desert beside its own cold spring. The food is very good (meals LE50) and the owner, Ashraf Lotfe, is a skilled desert hand. The perfect place away from it all.
Transport to and from Bawiti can be arranged.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Peter’s BarBar
(
% 012-2321-2179; International Hot Spring Hotel)
This bar is as much a surprise as the hotel’s own hot spring. Cold, cold beers!
Siwa Oasis
%046 / Pop 23,000
Siwa is the stuff of desert daydreams. Just 50km from the Libyan border this fertile basin, sitting about 25m below sea level and brimming with olive trees and palms, epitomises slow-paced oasis life. Set between the shady groves, squat, slouching mud-brick hamlets are connected by winding dirt lanes where trundling donkey carts are still as much a part of the street action as puttering motorbikes and 4WDs. Scattered throughout the oasis are crystal-clear springs, which are a heavenly respite from the harsh heat. At the edge of the oasis, the swells of the Great Sand Sea roll to the horizon, providing irresistible fodder for desert exploration.
Siwa’s geographic isolation helped protect a unique society that stands distinctly apart from mainstream Egyptian culture. Today, local traditions and Siwi, the local Berber language, still dominate.
Well worth the long haul to get out here, Siwa casts a spell that’s hard to resist.
History
Siwa has a long and ancient past: in late 2007, a human footprint was found that is thought to date back three million years, making it one of the oldest known human prints in the world. Flints discovered in the oasis show that it was inhabited in Palaeolithic and Neolithic times, but beyond that Siwa’s early history remains a mystery.
The oldest monuments in the oasis, including the Temple of the Oracle, date from the 26th dynasty, when Egypt was invaded by the Assyrians. Siwa’s Oracle of Amun was already famous then, and Egyptologists suspect it dates back to the earlier 21st dynasty, when the Amun priesthood became prominent throughout Egypt.
Such was the fame of Siwa’s oracle that its prophecies threatened the Persians, who invaded Egypt in 525 BC and ended the 26th dynasty. One of the Western Desert’s most persistent legends is of the lost army of Persian king Cambyses, which was sent to destroy the oracle but disappeared completely in the desert. This only helped increase the oracle’s prestige, reinforcing the political power of the Amun priesthood.
The oracle’s power – and with it, Siwa’s fame – grew throughout the ancient world. The young conqueror Alexander the Great led a small party on a perilous eight-day journey across the desert in 331 BC. It is believed that the priests of Amun, who was the supreme god of the Egyptian pantheon and later associated with the Greek god Zeus, declared him to be a son of the god.
The end of Roman rule, the collapse of the trade route and the gradual decline in the influence of oracles in general all contributed to Siwa’s gentle slide into obscurity. While Christianity spread through most of Egypt, there is no evidence that it ever reached Siwa, and priests continued to worship Amun here until the 6th century AD. The Muslim conquerors, who crossed the desert in AD 708, were defeated several times by the fierce Siwans. However, there was a cost to this isolation: it is said that by 1203 the population had declined to just 40 men, who moved from Aghurmi to found the new fortress-town of Shali. The oasis finally converted to Islam around the 12th century, and gradually built up wealth trading date and olive crops along the Nile Valley, and also with Libyan Fezzan and the Bedouins.
European travellers arrived at the end of the 18th century – WG Browne in 1792 and Frederick Hornemann in 1798 – but most were met with a hostile reception, and several narrowly escaped with their lives. Siwa was again visited in WWII, when the British and Italian/German forces chased each other in and out of Siwa and Jaghbub, 120km west in Libya. By then Siwa was politically incorporated into Egypt, but the oasis remained physically isolated until an asphalt road connected it to Marsa Matruh in the 1980s. As a result, Siwans still speak their own distinct Berber dialect and have a strong local culture, quite distinct from the rest of Egypt. The oasis is now home to some 21,000 Siwans and a few thousand Egyptians.
1Sights
Even though there are some fascinating sights hidden in the dense palm greenery of this oasis, Siwa’s main attraction is its serene atmosphere. Siwa is different than Egypt’s other oases; it is more remote, more relaxed and more beautiful. Strolling through the palm groves or riding a bike to a cool spring for a swim is all part of this oasis’s slow, soothing, far-from-anywhere charm. Hang out with Siwans and other travellers, have a picnic, ride a donkey cart, explore the dunes by 4WD and soak it all in.
One of Siwa’s most impressive sights is the oasis itself, which boasts more than 300,000 palm trees, 70,000 olive trees and a great many fruit orchards. The vegetation is sustained by more than 300 freshwater springs and streams, and the area attracts an amazing variety of bird life, including quail and falcons.
Siwa Town & Shali
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
8Transport
1 Siwa Town
Siwa is a pleasant town centred on a market square, where roads skedaddle off into the palm groves in nearly every direction. The proliferation of motorcycles and 4WD cars zooming around the main square may mean it’s not as peaceful as it once was, but rural ambience still abounds.
oFortress of ShaliFortress
(MAP GOOGLE MAP) F
Central Siwa is dominated by the spectacular organic shapes of the remains of this 13th-century mud-brick fortress. Built from kershef (chunks of salt from the lake just outside town, mixed with rock and plastered in local clay), the labyrinth of huddled buildings was originally four or five storeys high and housed hundreds of people. A path leads over the slumping remnants, past the Old Mosque (MAP GOOGLE MAP) with its chimney-shaped minaret, to the top for panoramic views.
For centuries, few outsiders were admitted inside the fortress – and even fewer came back out to tell the tale. But three days of rain in 1926 caused more damage than any invader had managed and, over the last decades, inhabitants moved to newer and more comfortable houses with running water and electricity. Now only a few buildings around the edges are occupied or used for storage. A pathway from the central square leads to the top for great views over the oasis. Several foreigners and Egyptians are doing up houses in the old town; some are available for overnight stays.
House of Siwa MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6513-9839; adult/student LE10; h 9am-2pm Sat-Thu)
This small museum contains an interesting display of traditional clothing, jewellery and crafts typical of the oasis. It’s worth the entry fee just to check out the wedding dresses. It’s a block northwest of the King Fuad Mosque.
Gebel Al MawtaArchaeological Site
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE40/20; h 9am-5pm)
This small hill, at the northern end of Siwa Town, is honeycombed with rock tombs peppered with wall paintings. Its name, Gebel Al Mawta, means ‘Mountain of the Dead’ and most of the tombs here date back to the 26th dynasty, Ptolemaic and Roman times. Only 1km from the centre of town, the tombs were used by the Siwans as shelters when the Italians bombed the oasis during WWII.
The best paintings are in the Tomb of Si Amun, where beautifully coloured reliefs portray the dead man – thought to be a wealthy Greek landowner or merchant – making offerings and praying to Egyptian gods. Also interesting are the unfinished Tomb of Mesu-Isis, with a beautiful depiction of cobras in red and blue above the entrance; the Tomb of Niperpathot, with inscriptions and crude drawings in the same reddish ink you can see on modern Siwan pottery; and finally the Tomb of the Crocodile, whose badly deteriorating wall paintings include a yellow crocodile representing the god Sobek.
The Lost Army of Cambyses
Persian king Cambyses invaded Egypt in 525 BC, overthrowing Egyptian pharaoh Psamtek III and signalling the beginning of Persian rule for the next 193 years. This success, however, did not continue. In the years immediately following his conquest of Egypt, Cambyses mounted several disastrous offensives. In one, he sent a mercenary army down the Nile into Kush (now Sudan) that was so undersupplied it had to turn to cannibalism to survive, and the soldiers returned in disgrace without even encountering the enemy.
Cambyses’ most famous failure remains his attempt to capture the Oracle of Amun in Siwa. Herodotus recounts how the oracle predicted a tragic end for Cambyses, and so the ruler dispatched an army of 50,000 men from Thebes, supported by a vast train of pack animals carrying supplies and weapons. The army is purported to have reached Farafra before turning west to cover the 325km of open desert to Siwa – a 30-day march without any shade or sources of water. Legend has it that after struggling through the Great Sand Sea, the men were engulfed by a fierce sandstorm, which buried the entire army.
Over the centuries, dozens of expeditions have searched in vain for a trace of Cambyses’ soldiers and, especially, the treasure they reputedly carried with them. Perhaps one day the shifting sands will reveal the remnants of this ancient army.
1 Natural Springs
Siwa has no shortage of active, bubbling springs hidden among its palm groves. At all of the springs in town, women should swim in pants and a shirt and use general good judgment concerning modesty.
Cleopatra’s SpringSpring
(Spring of the Sun; MAP GOOGLE MAP)
Following the track that leads to the Temple of the Oracle and continuing past the Temple of Umm Ubayd will lead you to Siwa’s most famous spring. The crystal-clear water gurgles up into a large stone pool, which is a popular bathing spot for locals and tourists alike. A couple of lovely cafes have comfortable shaded lounging areas and serve soft drinks and delicious snacks; bring your own picnic if you want to hang out for a while.
Bir WahedSpring
A favourite Siwa excursion is the freshwater lake at Bir Wahed, 15km away on the edge of the Great Sand Sea. Once over the top of a dune, you come to a hot spring, the size of a large jacuzzi, where sulphurous water bubbles in a pool and runs off to irrigate a garden.
Cooling down in the lake, then watching the sun setting over the dunes while soaking in a hot spring, is a surreal experience. The thorns in this rose are the mosquitoes that bite at sunset and the fact that a permit is necessary to visit Bir Wahed. Because it’s far from town, women can wear bathing suits here without offending locals. Bir Wahed can only be reached by 4WD, so if you don’t have your own, you’ll need to hire a guide and car. At the time of writing the spring was closed because of a fire, but it was due to reopen soon.
Fatnas SpringSpring
(Lake Siwa)
This fairly secluded pool is on a small island in the salty Birket Siwa, accessible across a narrow causeway. Nicknamed ‘Fantasy Island’ for its idyllic setting, the pool is about 6km from Siwa Town, and surrounded by palm trees and lush greenery. It’s an idyllic place to watch the sunset, and there’s a small cafe among the palms, which is good for a spot of tea or a puff of shisha.
A Ministry of Agriculture project to try to improve the lake’s drainage has left the ‘island’ high and dry, so sometimes the cafe may look out over salty mudflats rather than water. A tuk-tuk round trip from town will cost about LE50, with time to swim and hang out. Beware of mosquitoes at sunset.
Ain Al AraisSpring
The closest spring to central Siwa is Ain Al Arais, a cool, inviting waterhole with a grotto-like bottom, just five minutes’ walk from the main market square. A casual cafe-restaurant is right beside the spring.
1 Aghurmi
Before Shali was founded in the 13th century, Siwa’s main settlement was at Aghurmi, 4km east of the present town of Siwa. It was here that in 331 BC Alexander the Great consulted the famed oracle.
Temple of the OracleRuins
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/student LE30/15; h 9am-5pm)
The 26th-dynasty Temple of the Oracle sits in the northwest corner of the ruins of Aghurmi village. Built in the 6th century BC, probably on top of an earlier temple, it was dedicated to Amun (occasionally referred to as Zeus or Jupiter Ammon) and was a powerful symbol of the town’s wealth. It is believed Alexander the Great was declared son of Amun in this temple.
There are many stories about the foundation of the temple. One tells of two priestesses who were banished from Thebes to the desert. One founded the Temple of Dodona in Greece, the other the Temple of the Oracle here in Aghurmi. One of the most revered oracles in the ancient Mediterranean, its power was such that some rulers sought its advice while others sent armies to destroy it. Although treasure hunters have been at work here and the buttressed temple was poorly restored in the 1970s, it remains an evocative site, steeped in history. Surrounded by the ruins of Aghurmi, it has awesome views over the Siwan oasis palm-tops.
Temple of Umm UbaydRuins
This almost totally ruined temple was dedicated to Amun. It was originally connected to the Temple of the Oracle by a causeway and was used during oracle rituals. Nineteenth-century travellers got to see more of it than we can; a Siwan governor blew up the temple in 1896 in order to construct the town’s modern mosque and police building.
Only part of a wall covered with inscriptions survives. It’s located about 200m along the track from the Temple of the Oracle.
1 Around Siwa
There are a few villages, ruins and springs around Siwa that are worth a trip if you’ve got the time. To visit these sights you’ll need your own vehicle. Mahdi Hweiti at the Siwa tourist office organises trips, as does almost every restaurant and hotel in town. None of the sights, with the exception of Shiatta, require permits. Check with the tourist office before setting out.
ShiattaLake
Sixty kilometres west of Siwa Town, this stunning salt lake on the edge of the Great Sand Sea is ringed by palm trees. It’s a popular stopover for migratory birds – including flamingos – and gazelles may be seen here too. The lake once reached all the way to Siwa Town, and an ancient boat lies somewhere 7m below the surface.
At the time of writing the lake was off limits for foreign visitors.
Ain QurayshatSpring
Ain Qurayshat, about 20km east from Siwa Town, has the largest free-flowing spring in the oasis. The best way to reach the spring is via the causeway across salty Lake Zeitun, which has striking views.
Abu ShurufSpring
Abu Shuruf, a clean spring said by locals to have healing properties, is 27km east of Siwa Town and 7km east of Ain Qurayshat spring in the next palm thicket. The clear water here is deliciously cold, but the ambience is somewhat spoilt by the sight and noise of the nearby Hayat water-bottling plant.
Az ZeitunRuins
Roughly 30km east of Siwa Town, this abandoned mud-brick village, beaten by the sand and wind, sits alone on the sandy plain. Hundreds of Roman-era tombs have been discovered about 2km beyond Az Zeitun and are currently under excavation, although little of interest has been found yet.
Bilad Ar RumRuins
Just north of Kharmisah, around 17km northwest of Siwa Town, the City of the Romans has about 100 tombs cut into the rock of the nearby hills and the ruins of a stone temple, among the spots rumoured to be the final resting place of Alexander the Great. Nearby is Maraqi, once a poor village and now home to chic villas belonging to wealthy foreigners and Egyptians.
Maraqi is also where Liana Souvaltzi, a Greek archaeologist, claimed in 1995 to have found Alexander’s tomb. Her findings proved controversial and the Egyptian authorities revoked her permit and closed the site.
Ain Safivillage
Three kilometres east of the abandoned village of Az Zeitun, this is the last human vestige before the overwhelming wall of desert dunes that stretches for hundreds of kilometres, all the way south to Al Kharga Oasis. Some 30 Bedouin remain here.
Kharmisahvillage
About 15km northwest of Siwa Town, this village has five natural springs and is renowned for the quality of its olive groves.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Respecting Local Customs
Take a look around, and when you see Siwan women, you probably won’t glimpse more than a pair of eyes peeking out from behind a shawl. Modesty is serious business here. If a Western woman wears shorts and tank tops, it’s about the same as walking naked through a stranger’s home – in other words, you probably wouldn’t do it. Perhaps even more than elsewhere in Egypt, travellers should dress conscientiously in Siwa. Women should cover legs, upper arms and cleavage, and men should stick to long pants rather than shorts. Displays of affection between couples should be saved for the hotel room. As with anywhere in the country, showing respect earns respect.
2Activities
Salt Mining PoolsSwimming
(Abu Shorouf) F
Siwans always knew about the salt in their lakes, but a recent large-scale salt-mining project has created several salt water pools which are wonderful to swim in. The pools are obviously very salty, but the turquoise-blue water against the white crystals is beautiful. Several hotels offer a half-day excursion.
Taziry StablesHorse Riding
(
% 010-1633-3200; www.facebook.com/tazirysiwa; Taziry Ecolodge; LE300 for two hours)
The Moroccan owner here is very proud of his horses. Book ahead.
DON’T MISS
SAND BATHING AT GEBEL DAKRUR
If you thought a soak in a hot spring was invigorating, wait until you try a dip in one of the scalding-hot sand baths of Gebel Dakrur, several kilometres southeast of Siwa Town. From July to September, people flock here from all over the world to take turns at being immersed up to their necks in a bath of very hot sand for up to 20 minutes at a time.
Local doctors claim that a treatment regime of three to five days can cure rheumatism and arthritis – and judging by the number of repeat customers they get they might just be on to something. There are several places around the western slope of the mountain where you can get therapeutically sand-dunked. The best known is Sherif Sand Bath (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %
010-0366-1905; sand bath LE100-150, with food & overnight lodging LE300-400; h
Jun-Sep).
The mountain also supplies the oasis with the reddish-brown pigment used to decorate Siwan pottery. Siwans believe that the mountain is haunted and claim that afrit (spirits) can be heard singing in the gardens at night.
TTours
Almost all restaurants and hotels in Siwa offer tours in the desert around Siwa Town. Abdu’s Restaurant and the Palm Trees Hotel have established a good reputation for their trips. The tourist office is also an excellent place to get help with organising tours.
All desert trips require permits, which cost LE140 per person per day and are usually obtained by your guide from the tourist office. Trip prices vary according to itineraries but the average cost of a car and driver for a full day to visit the sights around Siwa is LE200 to LE300. One of the most popular half-day trips takes you to the cold lake and hot springs at Bir Wahed, on the edge of the Great Sand Sea. Palm Trees offers this with an overnight option, but you’ll sleep in a camp on the edge of town, not in the dunes.
Other popular half-day itineraries include a tour of the springs Ain Qurayshat, Abu Shuruf, Az Zeitun and Ain Safi (LE200 for two people, LE300 for a bigger group); and a tour of Siwa Town and its environs (Temple of the Oracle, Gebel Al Mawta, Cleopatra’s Bath, Fortress of Shali and Fatnas). Overnight trips vary in length according to destination. Most trips are done by 4WD, so ensure that the vehicle is roadworthy before you set out and that you have enough water.
Amr Baghi ToursOutdoors
( % 010-0192-0465; amrshali55@yahoo.com)
Amr Baghi trained as an archaeologist and organises tours in the oasis and around.
Ghazal SafariOutdoors
(
% 010-0277-1234)
If you’re looking to explore the area of the Great Sand Sea surrounding Siwa, we highly recommend Ghazal Safari. Driver/guide Abd El Rahman Azmy has a kick-ass vehicle and a love for Siwa that’s contagious.
zFestivals & Events
Moulid At TagmigraReligious
( h Aug)
Once a year, just after the corn harvest in late summer, Siwa Town’s small tomb shrine of Sidi Suleiman is the scene of a moulid (saints’ festival), known in Siwi as the Moulid At Tagmigra. Banners announce the moulid, and zikrs are performed outside the tomb.
Siyaha FestivalCultural
(
h Oct)
For three days around October’s full moon, Gebel Dakrur is the scene of the Siyaha festival. Thousands of Siwans gather to celebrate the date harvest, renewing friendships and settling any quarrels that broke out over the previous year. Check with the tourist office to find out if it’s taking place.
During the festival all Siwans, no matter what their financial or social standing, eat together at a huge feast after the noon prayer each day. The festival is intertwined with Sufism, and each evening, hundreds of men form a circle and join together in a zikr. Siwan women do not attend the festivities, although girls up to about the age of 12 are present until sunset.
4Sleeping
Siwa Town has a great collection of places to sleep, with everything from competitively priced budget pads to dazzling top-end options. Many midrange and top-end sleeping options can also be found further afield around Gebel Dakrur and Sidi Jaafar.
The police here are very jittery about people camping close to town. If you want to sleep in the desert, it’s best to organise a tour with a local guide.
4 Siwa Town & Around
oAl Babinshal Heritage HotelBoutique Hotel $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0361-4140; www.facebook.com/Albabinshal-Heritage-Hotel-1242284019179174;Shali; s/d/tr LE285/365/475; W )
This gorgeous, curvy mud-brick hotel is seamlessly grafted onto, and part of, the Shali fortress with its labyrinthine architecture all built from kershef bricks. A maze of tunnels and stairways connects the spacious and cool rooms. Decor is distinctly desert style with date-palm furniture, local textiles and traditional wooden-shuttered windows used in abundance to add to the local vibe.
Salama keeps the place immaculate, is extremely helpful and a wise font of local knowledge. The rooftop is a great place to be at sunset, or come and have dinner under the stars.
Siwa Safari Gardens HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-2801; www.siwagardens.com; Sharia Ain Al Arais; s/d/tr half board LE270/370/470; Ws )
This simple but supremely tidy hotel gets all the little things right: clean, bright rooms and a serene palm-shaded courtyard with a gleaming spring-fed pool. Ground-floor rooms are surprisingly plain, so bag a dome-ceilinged 2nd-floor room for more character. The staff here goes out of the way to help.
Dream Lodge HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0099-9255; http://siwadreamlodgehotel.net; near Gebel Al Mawta; s/d/tr/ste LE180/280/380/440; pWs )
Delightful small hotel with 22 rooms built in local style around a swimming pool. It’s all surrounded by a shady garden, where an Egyptian breakfast is served in the morning and a fire is lit on winter nights. Very tranquil.
Palm Trees HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-1703, 012-2104-6652; www.facebook.com/PALM-TREES-816079035146405; Sharia Torrar; s/d LE80/95, with shared bathroom LE50/60, bungalow s/d LE80/120, r with air-con LE120; W )
If you can handle the mosquitoes (seriously, bring bug-spray), then this popular budget hotel is a lovely place to stay. It has sufficiently tidy rooms boasting screened windows, fans and balconies. The shady garden with date-palm furniture is delightful and the few ground-level bungalows have porches spilling onto the greenery.
Kelany HotelHotel$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-2336-9627; Sharia Azmi Kilani; s/d/tr LE100/150/200; aW )
Kelany’s small rooms may be showing their age, but they’re still a step above other budget places in Siwa; if you’re looking for a cheap sleep with air-con and working wi-fi, this is your best bet. The rooftop restaurant (meals LE35) features views of the Fortress of Shali, Gebel Dakrur and everything in between. Breakfast is not included.
oShali LodgeHotel$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-1118-5820, 046-460-2399; Sharia Subukha; s/d/tr/ste LE385/475/575/650; h Sep-Jun; W )
This tiny, beautiful hotel, owned by environmentalist Mounir Neamatallah, is nestled in a lush palm grove about 100m from Siwa’s main square. The large comfortable rooms have lots of curvaceous mud-brick goodness, exposed palm beams, rock-walled bathrooms and cushioned sitting nooks. Tasteful and quiet, this is how small hotels should be.
NanshaalHotel $$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-6661-9586; www.facebook.com/nanshal.siwa; Shali; r from $40; W )
At the edge of Shali, Nanshaal is a tranquil haven, with a few rooms in a restored mud-brick house. Run by the laid-back Faris Hassanein, the rooms here are simple but authentically Siwan, using mostly natural materials. There is a great roof terrace where you can watch time pass.
Faris knows everyone and is very helpful in suggesting all the delights that the oases and surrounding desert have on offer.
Siwa Safari ParadiseHotel $$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-1290; www.siwaparadise.com; Sharia Ain Al Arais; s/d LE420/550, bungalow LE280/380, with air-con LE300/400; Ws )
Laid out along a maze of garden paths, this resort-style hotel mainly attracts northern Europeans looking to sunbake by the natural spring pool. The spacious air-con bungalows are the pick of the bunch here with dome ceilings and little lounge areas. The rooms in the main building are rather bland and formulaic.
4 Sidi Jaafar & Around Siwa Lake
Maraki CampBoutique Hotel $
(
% 012-2490-7806; www.siwawi.com; Maraqi; d LE250; W )
The perfect place to relax for a few days, this small, simple and beautifully designed camp has 12 mud-brick rooms on the lake with bathrooms, mosquito net and solar-powered lights. The terrace is a dream, overlooking the lake where you can go swimming.
Next door is a beautiful villa for rent with two bedrooms and hot water, accommodating four people (LE500 per night).
Siwa Astro CampTented Camp$
(
% 012-2410-6044; www.facebook.com/siwaastrocamp; s/d half board LE180/250)
One of the few places you can stay out in the desert is at Astro camp, 9km from town, between two mountains. The accommodation is in clean tents, with a shared kitchen and bathroom, and a large Bedouin tent for the evening. This is a peaceful place, also perfect for yoga and meditation. Fathi is a great host. Recommended.
oSiwa Relax RetreatHotel$$
(
% 012-8000-0274; www.facebook.com/SiwaRelaxRetreat; s/d US$65/75, r with shared bathroom US$30; pWs )
Far away from it all, this place is a dream in which to totally relax for a few days. Built on the edge of the lake, the simple but comfortable rooms are covered in bougainvillea and have floors made of salt crystals. Some have shared bathrooms, others are en suite. There is no electricity, just candles.
Sun loungers surround the pool, which is part of the lake. Ashraf is a relaxed host, and gives excellent and expert oil and salt massages and mudwraps on the lake shore. You can book for a romantic dinner by the lake (US$15).
TalistHotel $$
(
% 010-0114-1508, 010-0644-5881; www.talistsiwa.com; Al Maraqi Rd; r from US$35; pWs )
Talist, meaning ‘lake’ in the Amazig language, is a place to get away from it all. On offer in this family-owned ecolodge are simple but comfortable rooms, beauty and tranquillity. Natural materials like stone, cotton and kershef, a mixture of salt and rock, are used, and there is a great pool overlooking the lake.
A lovely candlelit dinner can be ordered in advance (LE150). Electricity is only available to charge devices.
oAdrère AmellalHotel $$$
(
% 02-2736-7879; www.adrereamellal.net; Sidi Jaafar, White Mountain; s/d/tr full board incl excursions & all drinks from US$460/605/900, ste from US$1420; pWs )
Backed by the dramatic White Mountain (called Adrère Amellal in Siwan language), this impeccable retreat lies in its own oasis, 13km from Siwa Town, with stunning views over Birket Siwa salt lake and the Great Sand Sea’s dunes. It offers the ultimate in spartan-chic. Elegantly simple suites showcase traditional architecture techniques using kershef.
There is no electricity; the rooms are lit by candles and the garden by hurricane lamps and the moon and the stars. When sandy adventures are done for the day, guests loll by the natural-spring swimming pool until it’s time for a gourmet dinner, mostly from their own oasis’s garden, eaten under the stars. This truly magnificent – and highly romantic – hideaway is one of Egypt’s most special and innovative places to stay.
Taziry EcolodgeBoutique Hotel $$$
(
% 010-1633-3200; www.facebook.com/tazirysiwa; Al Gaary; s/d/tr half board LE1200/1600/2200, chalet half board LE2200-3000; 
s )
This peaceful hotel 12km west of Siwa Town was designed and built by an artist and an engineer from Alexandria. Large natural-material rooms are decorated with local crafts and Bedouin rugs. Tranquil and laid-back, with no electricity and a natural-spring pool overlooking the lake, it is a great place to unwind and experience Siwa’s magic. Families can choose their own adobe chalet.
The Taziry has a relaxed lounge vibe, and is a good place to come and hang out for the day, with day use of the wonderful pool and a delicious Moroccan lunch (LE250). It organises safaris, and has stables for horse riding.
4 Gebel Dakrur
Qasr AlzaytunaHotel $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 012-2222-4209, 046-460-2909; www.facebook.com/Qasr-Alzaytuna-388249304624984; s/d/tr LE150/200/240; s )
Perfect for those who want a restful getaway, Qasr Alzaytuna has neat-as-a-pin rooms (some with dinky balconies) and a tranquil date-palm garden complete with spring-fed swimming pool. The important things are done right, like nice mattresses and modern bathrooms, and your host, Sammia, is as welcoming as could be. A great choice for families, it lies 2km southeast of town.
Siwa Shali ResortResort $$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 02-3974-1806, 010-0630-1017; www.siwashaliresort.com; s/d/ste half board €26/52/70; s )
This self-contained village of traditionally styled bungalows snakes its way along a 500m spring-fed pool. While the rooms are nothing special, suites have sitting rooms with two mattresses, perfect for young kids. It’s popular with European tour groups on all-inclusive packages, as it’s 4km from town.
5Eating
Most of the restaurants and cafes in Siwa cater to tourists and are open from about 8am until late. There are a couple of falafel and fuul (fava bean paste) joints plus an a’aish (flatbread) bakery about 50m off the main square past the Kelany Hotel. For travellers looking for oasis ambience, there are several cosy palm-garden restaurants around Siwa serving the usual combination of Egyptian and Western fare.
oAbdu’s RestaurantInternational $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-1243; Central Market Sq; dishes LE18-50; h 8.30am-midnight)
Before wi-fi and smartphones, there were places like this – a village hub where people gathered nightly to catch up and swap stories. The longest-running restaurant in town remains the best eating option thanks to its friendly on-the-ball staff and a huge menu of breakfast, pasta, traditional dishes, vegetable stews, couscous, roasted chickens and pizza.
Abdu’s is also prime territory for organising safaris and day trips with staff happy to dish out advice and information on all things ‘Siwa’.
Al Babinshal RestaurantEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0361-4140; Fortress of Shali; mains LE20-65; h 8am-late)
On the roof of the hotel of the same name, this might just be the most romantic dining spot in the oases. Moodily lit in the evenings, it’s practically attached to the fortress of Shali and has sweeping views over all of Siwa. This is the place in town to try camel-meat stew.
Tanta WaaEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-1290-1337; www.facebook.com/Tanta-Waa-172058239563868; Cleopatra’s Spring; mains LE30, 3-course dinner LE150-200; h 10am-midnight)
Tanta Waa is a great place to hang out after swimming in Cleopatra’s Spring. It serves delicious smoothies and fresh juices, pancakes and good paninis. The wonderful slow-cooked dinner by candlelight, features anything from leg of lamb to duck with orange or chicken baked in the sand.
Book ahead in the morning or, preferably, the night before.
Abo Ayman RestaurantGrill$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; off Sharia Sadat; meals LE18-40; h 11am-midnight)
Roasted on a hand-turned spit over coals in an old oil drum, the chickens at Abo Ayman are the juiciest in Siwa. They’re well seasoned, and served with salad, tahini and bread. You can sit inside at low tables, but we like the tables outside with street views.
Nour Al WahaInternational$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-0293; Sharia Subukha; mains LE10-30; h noon-midnight)
This popular hang-out, in a palm grove opposite Shali Lodge, has shady tables and plenty of tea and games on hand for those who just want to while away the day in the shade. The food is a mixture of Egyptian and Western, and is generally fresh and good.
Kenooz SiwaEgyptian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-1299; Sharia Subukha; mains LE20-45; h 8am-midnight Sep-Jun)
On the roof terrace of Shali Lodge, this cafe-restaurant is a great place to hang out while enjoying a mint tea or a cold drink. Mains include some unique Siwan specialities, such as baked lentils and eggplant with pomegranate sauce.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Many of the cafes around town are no-name places where Siwan men gather to watch TV and chat, but no alcohol is served. A couple of the most enjoyable cafes are found next to Cleopatra’s Bath.
ShaqrazaCafe
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sharia Sidi Suleyman; h 9am-1am; W )
The hippest cafe-restaurant in Siwa sits on a shaded rooftop overlooking the central square. Lounge on cushions or choose a regular table with chairs. Browse an extensive list of coffees, teas and juices, plus a full food menu. Throw in the wi-fi and this place is a sure hit.
Abdu CoffeeshopCoffee
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Central Market Sq; h 7am-midnight)
Abdu’s packs out nightly with local men smoking shisha, downing tea and slapping backgammon pieces with triumphant vigour.
Taghaghien Touristic IslandBar
(
% 012-8999-1991; www.facebook.com/taghaghien.island; entry incl a drink LE50; h 10am-10pm)
Desperate for a beer? This small island 12km northwest of Siwa Town and connected by a causeway is one of the few places selling the amber nectar (for a whopping LE40 a bottle). Shaded tables, paddleboat rentals and sweet sunset vistas make it great for a day trip or picnic. You’ll need your own transport to get here.
ZeytounaCoffee
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Central Market Sq; h 8am-midnight)
Right in town, Zeytouna is a favourite evening haunt for local men drinking tea and coffee. Its tables often spill out onto the town square.
7Shopping
Siwa’s rich culture is well represented by the abundance of traditional crafts that are still made for local use as well as for tourists. There are lots of shops around Siwa Town selling very similar items, so browse around a bit before you buy.
Siwan women love to adorn themselves with heavy silver jewellery and you should be able to find some interesting pieces around town. Local wedding dresses are famous for their red, orange, green and black embroidery, often embellished with shells and beads. Look for black silk asherah nazitaf and white cotton asherah namilal dresses.
A variety of baskets are woven from date-palm fronds. You can spot old baskets by their finer artisanship and the use of silk or leather instead of vinyl and polyester. The tarkamt, a woven plate that features a red leather centre, is traditionally used for serving sweets, the larger tghara is used for storing bread. Smaller baskets include the aqarush and the red-and-green silk-tasselled nedibash. You’ll also find pottery coloured with pigment from Gebel Dakrur, used locally as water jugs, drinking cups and incense burners.
Siwa is also known for its dates and olives, found in every other shop around the main square. Ask to taste a few different varieties; you really can’t go wrong.
Gay Siwa?
Much attention has been paid to Siwa’s unique history of intimate male relations. Back when Siwa’s citizens still lived in the Fortress of Shali, young men between the ages of 20 and 40 were expected to spend their nights outside the fortress to tend to the fields and protect the town from attack. These men of Siwa had a notorious reputation, not only for their bravery (they were known as zaggalah, or ‘club bearers’), but for their love of palm wine, music and openly gay relations. Single-sex marriages were apparently still practised in Siwa right up until WWII, although they had been outlawed in Egypt decades earlier.
Even though Siwa has been listed as a place to visit in several gay travel directories, the situation today is quite different. Residents of Siwa vehemently deny that there is a local gay sex scene, and travellers coming to Siwa in hope of ‘hooking up’ have been faced with increasingly homophobic sentiments. Siwan men are not amused at being propositioned by passing strangers – they are much more likely than foreigners to bear the brunt of anti-gay attitudes. Violent attacks on local men accused of homosexuality are not unheard of.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
At the time of writing, it was fine to travel to the oasis of Siwa via the Marsa Matruh road, but not via the desert road from Bahariya. The oasis is calm and relaxed, but because of Libyan smugglers crossing the desert borders, it is forbidden to travel much further than Bir Wahed into the desert. Check with the tourist office for the current situation.
Emergency
Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 046-460-2047; Siwa Town) Across the road from the tourist office.
Money
Banque du Caire (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Siwa Town; h 8.30am-2pm & 5-8pm) About 200m north from the King Fuad Mosque, this bank is purported to be the only all-mud-brick bank in the world. The ATM usually works but – just in case – you’re better off bringing enough money to Siwa with you. It’s a long way to the next bank.
Permits
At the time of writing, desert travel away from the oases was not permitted and the road from Siwa to Bahariya was closed. A permit is needed to venture off the beaten track from Siwa, but this is easily arranged by local guides. Mahdi Hweiti at the tourist office can also help arrange permits quickly (but not on Fridays). Permits cost LE140 per person, per day. You’ll need copies of your passport.
Tourist Information
Tourist Office (MAP GOOGLE MAP; % 010-0546-1992, 046-460-1338; mahdi_hweiti@yahoo.com; Siwa Town; h 9am-2pm Sat-Thu, plus 5-8pm Oct-Apr) Siwa’s tourist officer, Mahdi Hweiti, is extremely knowledgeable about the oasis and can help arrange desert safaris or trips to surrounding villages. The office is opposite the bus station.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Siwa’s bus stop (MAP) and ticket office is opposite the tourist police station; when you arrive in town, however, you’ll be let off near the central market square. It’s sensible to buy your ticket ahead of time as buses are often full.
From the bus stop, West & Middle Delta Bus Co buses depart for Alexandria (LE75, eight hours), via Marsa Matruh (LE40, four hours) at 7am, 10am and 10pm. The 10pm service costs LE10 more. It’s direct Siwa–Cairo bus service (LE150, 11 hours) runs on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 8pm. Otherwise, get a bus to Alexandria and change there.
Microbus
Microbuses going to Marsa Matruh (MAP GOOGLE MAP) (LE40) leave from the main square near the King Fuad Mosque. They are more frequent and way more comfortable than the West & Mid Delta bus, and the same price.
4WD
Construction of the Siwa–Bahariya road began in 2005 and, after many delays, is now finished. However, it was closed to foreigners at the time of writing.
To/From Libya
Though Siwa is only about 50km from the Libya, it’s currently illegal to cross the border in either direction, either along this stretch of border, or via the official border crossing in Sallum.
8Getting Around
Bicycle & Motorcycle
Bicycles are one of the best ways to get around and can be rented from several sources, including most hotels and a number of shops dotted around the town centre. Getting a bike from one of the bicycle rentals near the Central Market Square (MAP) gives you a better chance of finding a bike in good condition. The going rate is LE20 to LE25 per day.
Though not as enjoyable or tranquil as bicycles, motorbikes can also be rented. You can pick one up from the bike shop next to Al Babinshal Hotel, or at Palm Trees Hotel. Expect to pay between LE150 and LE200 per day.
Donkey Cart & Tuk-tuk
Caretas (donkey carts) were a much-used mode of transport for Siwans, but there are not that many around anymore. Some of the boys who drive the carts speak English and can be fierce hagglers. Expect to pay about LE40 for two to three hours, or LE20 for a short trip.
Noisy tuk-tuks have replaced the old-fashioned donkey carts. Expect to pay about LE50 for two to three hours, or LE20 for a short trip.
Servees
Microbuses serve as communal taxis linking Siwa Town with surrounding villages. To get to Bilad Ar Rum costs LE1 to LE2 each way. If you want to hire your own to get to more remote sites, Mahdi Hweiti at the tourist office will be able to help, or head for the petrol station and talk directly to drivers. One reliable English-speaking driver with a good-quality vehicle is Anwar Mohammed (%012-2687-3261). Prices are per truck, not per passenger, and depend on the duration of the trip, the distance to be covered and, of course, your haggling skills.
Beyond Siwa
Great Sand Sea & Gilf Kebir
Great Sand SeaDesert
One of the world’s largest dune fields, the Great Sand Sea straddles Egypt and Libya, stretching more than 800km from its northern edge near the Mediterranean coast south to Gilf Kebir. Covering a colossal 72,000 sq km, it contains some of the largest recorded dunes in the world, including one that is 140km long. It was off limits to foreigners at the time of writing.
Crescent, seif (sword) and barchan dunes are found here in abundance, and have challenged desert travellers and explorers for hundreds of years. The Persian king Cambyses is thought to have lost an army here, while the WWII British Long Range Desert Group spent months trying to find a way through the impenetrable sands to launch surprise attacks on the German army. Aerial surveys and expeditions have helped the charting of this vast expanse, but it remains one of the least-explored areas on the planet.
Gilf KebirDesert
The Gilf Kebir is a spectacular sandstone plateau 150km north of Gebel Uweinat, rising 300m above the desert floor. The setting feels as remote as a place can be, with a rugged beauty that used to attract the most ardent desert lovers; on the northern side, the plateau disappears into the sands of the Great Sand Sea. It is famous as a setting for Michael Ondaatje’s The English Patient. It was off limits to foreigners at the time of writing.
In 1933, some dramatic rock carvings and paintings were discovered by the Hungarian explorer László Almásy. The stunning depictions of people who look like they are swimming – known as the Cave of Swimmers – and of abundant wildlife, including giraffes and hippopotamuses, are probably around 10,000 years old. Almásy suggested that the swimming scenes were a real depiction of their surroundings before the climate changed.