Cooking Classes and Market Tour
Local Guides for Private Tours
The best of Florence lies on the north bank of the Arno River. The main historical sights cluster around the red-brick dome of the cathedral (Duomo). Everything is within a 20-minute walk of the train station, cathedral, or Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). The less famous but more characteristic Oltrarno area (south bank) is just over the bridge.
Though small, Florence is intense. Prepare for scorching summer heat, slick pickpockets, few WCs, steep prices, and long lines. Easy tourist money has corrupted some locals, making them greedy and dishonest (check your bill carefully). Visitors to Florence will enjoy the city’s newfound passion for traffic-free zones. Once brutal for pedestrians, the city is now a delight on foot.
Plan your sightseeing carefully; follow the tips and tricks in this chapter to save time and avoid lines. This is particularly important if you’ll be in town for only a day or two during the crowded summer months.
The Uffizi Gallery and Accademia (starring Michelangelo’s David) nearly always have long ticket-buying lines, especially in peak season (April-Oct) and on holiday weekends. Crowds thin out on weekdays in the off-season. Whatever time of year you visit, you can easily avoid the wait by making reservations (see here) or buying a Firenze Card (see here). Note that both of these major sights are closed on Monday.
Some sights close early; see the early-closing warning in the “Daily Reminder,” later in this chapter. In general, Sundays and Mondays are not ideal for sightseeing, as many places are either closed or have shorter hours.
Set up a good itinerary in advance. Do my recommended Renaissance Walk in the morning or late afternoon to avoid heat and crowds. Stop often for gelato.
| 8:30 | Accademia (David)—reserve in advance or get a Firenze Card. |
| 10:00 | Take Renaissance Walk through town center and climb the Campanile. |
| 12:00 | Bargello (best statues). |
| 13:30 | Grab a quick lunch in or near the Mercato Centrale. |
| 14:00 | Shopping around San Lorenzo. |
| 16:30 | Uffizi Gallery (finest paintings)—reserve well in advance or get a Firenze Card. |
| 19:30 | Take the Oltrarno Walk (best local color) and have dinner across the river at 21:00. |
| 9:00 | Bargello (great statues). |
| 11:00 | Duomo Museum (intriguing statues by Donatello and Michelangelo) or Galileo Science Museum. |
| 13:00 | Lunch, free to wander and shop. |
| 15:00 | Take a bike or walking tour. |
| 17:00 | Uffizi Gallery (best paintings)—reserve well in advance or get a Firenze Card. |
| 19:00 | Oltrarno Walk. |
| 21:00 | Dinner in Oltrarno. |
| 9:00 | Bargello (top statues). |
| 11:00 | Galileo Science Museum. |
| 13:00 | Lunch, free to wander and shop. |
| 16:30 | Uffizi Gallery (unforgettable paintings)—reserve well in advance or get a Firenze Card. |
| 19:00 | Take the Oltrarno Walk and have dinner in Oltrarno. |
| 9:00 | Duomo Museum. |
| 11:00 | Santa Croce Church (opens at 14:00 on Sun). |
| 13:00 | Lunch. |
| 16:00 | San Miniato Church (Gregorian chants at 18:30), Piazzale Michelangelo (city views), walk back into town. |
Side-trip to Siena (sights open daily; 1.25 hours away by bus), or consider an overnight stay to enjoy the town at twilight.
Visit your pick of Pisa, Lucca, and Tuscan hill towns—or take a cooking class.
For a rundown on Florence’s train station, the bus station (next to the train station), and nearby airports—as well as tips for arriving by car or cruise ship—see the Florence Connections chapter.
Florence has two separate TI organizations, which are equally helpful.
One TI has two different branches, both with a focus on the city. The main branch is across the square from the train station and very crowded (Mon-Sat 8:30-19:00, Sun 8:30-14:00; with your back to tracks, exit the station—it’s 100 yards away, across the square in wall near corner of church at Piazza Stazione 4; if you see a “tourist information” desk inside the train station, it’s a hotel-booking service in disguise; tel. 055-212-245, www.firenzeturismo.it). The smaller branch is very centrally located at Piazza del Duomo, at the west corner of Via Calzaiuoli (it’s inside the Bigallo Museum/Loggia; Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, tel. 055-288-496).
The other TI organization covers both the city and the greater province of Florence. Its main branch is a couple of blocks north of the Duomo and is often less crowded than the others (Mon-Sat 8:30-18:30, closed Sun, just past Medici-Riccardi Palace at Via Cavour 1 red, tel. 055-290-832, international bookstore across street); a second branch is at the airport (daily 8:30-20:30).
At any TI, you’ll find these free, handy resources in English:
• city map (also ask for the transit map, which has bus routes of interest to tourists on the back; your hotel likely has freebie maps, too)
• current museum-hours listing (very important, since no guidebook—including this one—has ever been able to accurately predict the hours of Florence’s sights for the coming year; you can also download this list at www.firenzeturismo.it)
• a list of current exhibitions
• a list of pay (€1) public WCs (generally scarce in Florence)
• a printout of what’s happening that day, including concerts
• the compact Firenze Info booklet, loaded with useful practical details
• Firenze: The Places of Interest, a fold-out with brief descriptions of sightseeing options
• information on events and entertainment, including the TI’s monthly Florence & Tuscany News
• the glossy monthly Florence Concierge Information magazine (stuffed with ads for shopping and restaurants, but also includes some practical information)
• The Florentine newspaper (published every other Thu in English, for expats and tourists, great articles giving cultural insights, schedule of goings-on around town, download latest issue at www.theflorentine.net). A similar publication is The Florence Newspaper (www.theflorencenewspaper.com).
The Florence magazine and newspapers just mentioned are often available at hotels throughout town.
The TIs across from the train station and on Via Cavour sell the Firenze Card, an expensive but handy sightseeing pass that allows you to skip the lines at top museums (see here).
Theft Alert: Florence has particularly hardworking thief gangs who hang out where you do: near the train station, the station’s underpass (especially where the tunnel surfaces), and at major sights. American tourists—especially older ones—are considered easy targets. Some thieves even dress like tourists to fool you. Be on guard at two squares frequented by drug pushers (Santa Maria Novella and Santo Spirito). Bus #7 (to the nearby town of Fiesole, with great Florence views) is a favorite with tourists and, therefore, with thieves.
Medical Help: There’s no shortage of English-speaking medical help in Florence. To reach a doctor who speaks English, call Medical Service Firenze at 055-475-411; the phone is answered 24/7. Rates are reasonable. For a doctor to come to your hotel within an hour of your call, you’d pay €100-200 (higher rates apply on Sun, holidays, or for late visits). You pay only €50 if you go to the clinic when the doctor’s in (Mon-Fri 11:00-12:00, 13:00-15:00 & 17:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-12:00 & 13:00-15:00, closed Sun, no appointment necessary, Via Roma 4, between the Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica).
Dr. Stephen Kerr is an English doctor specializing in helping sick tourists (drop-in clinic open Mon-Fri 15:00-17:00, other times by appointment, €50/visit, Piazza Mercato Nuovo 1, between Piazza della Repubblica and Ponte Vecchio, tel. 055-288-055, mobile 335-836-1682, www.dr-kerr.com). The TI has a list of other English-speaking doctors.
There are 24-hour pharmacies at the train station and on Borgo San Lorenzo (near the Baptistery).
Museum Strategies: If you want to see a lot of museums, the pricey Firenze Card—which saves you from having to wait in line or make reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia—can be a good value (see here).
Visiting Churches: Some churches operate like museums, charging an admission fee to see their art treasures. Modest dress for men, women, and even children is required in some churches (including the Duomo, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santa Maria del Carmine—with the Brancacci Chapel, and the Medici Chapels). I recommended no bare shoulders, short shorts, or short skirts at any church. Many churches let you borrow or buy a cheap, disposable poncho for instant respectability. Be respectful of worshippers and the paintings; don’t use a flash. Churches usually close from 12:00 or 12:30 to 15:00 or 16:00.
Addresses: For reasons beyond human understanding, Florence has a ridiculously confusing system for street addresses, with separate numbering for businesses (red) and residences (black). In print, this designation is sometimes indicated by a letter following the number: “r” = red, for rosso; no indication or “n” = black, for nero. While usually black, B&Bs can be either. The red and black numbers each appear in roughly consecutive order on streets but bear no apparent connection with each other. While the numbers are sometimes color-coded on street signs, in many cases they appear in neither red nor black, but in blue! I’m lazy and don’t concern myself with the distinction (if one number’s wrong, I look nearby for the other) and can easily find my way around.
Chill Out: Schedule several breaks into your sightseeing when you can sit, pause, cool off, and refresh yourself with a sandwich, gelato, or coffee. Carry a water bottle to refill at Florence’s twist-the-handle public fountains (near the Duomo dome entrance, around the corner from the “Piglet” at the Mercato Nuovo, or in front of the Pitti Palace). Try the fontanello (dispenser of free cold water, frizzante or naturale) on Piazza della Signoria, behind the statue of Neptune (on the left side of the Palazzo Vecchio).
Internet Access: Bustling, tourist-filled Florence has many small Internet cafés. VIP Internet has cheap rates, numerous terminals, and long hours (€1.50/hour, daily 9:00-24:00, near recommended hotel Katti House at Via Faenza 49 red, tel. 055-264-5552).
Most hotels have Wi-Fi, as do an increasing number of cafés and restaurants. If you have a smartphone with an Italian mobile number, you can access free Wi-Fi for two hours a day at various hotspots around town, including at most major squares and along the river (the TI can give you a list of hotspots and instructions).
Bookstores: For a good selection of brand-name guidebooks (including mine), try one of these shops. The first two are locally owned and carry only English books. Paperback Exchange has the widest selection and also deals in used books (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat 10:30-19:30, closed Sun, just south of the Duomo on Via delle Oche 4 red, tel. 055-293-460). B & M Books & Fine Art is a bit smaller but also has a great Italian interest section (Tue-Sat 11:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon, near Ponte alla Carraia at Borgo Ognissanti 4 red, tel. 055-294-575). The local branch of Feltrinelli International has a relatively small English section (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, closed Sun, a few blocks north of the Duomo, across the street from TI and Medici-Riccardi Palace at Via Cavour 12 red, tel. 055-219-524).
WCs: Public restrooms are scarce. Use them when you can, in any café or museum you patronize. A convenient pay WC (€1) is located near the Duomo, at the Baptistery ticket office.
Laundry: The Wash & Dry Lavarapido chain offers long hours and efficient, self-service launderettes at several locations (about €8 for wash and dry, change machine but bring plenty of coins just in case, daily 8:00-22:00, tel. 055-580-480). These are close to recommended hotels: Via dei Servi 105 red (near David), Via del Sole 29 red and Via della Scala 52 red (between train station and river), Via Ghibellina 143 red (Palazzo Vecchio), and Via dei Serragli 87 red (across the river in Oltrarno neighborhood). For more options, ask the TI for a complete list of launderettes.
Bike Rental: The city of Florence rents bikes cheaply at the train station and Piazza Santa Croce (€2/1 hour, €5/5 hours, €10/day, tel. 055-650-5295; information at any TI). Florence by Bike rents two-wheelers of all sizes (€3.50/hour, €9/5 hours, includes bike lock and helmet, child seat-€3 extra; Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-17:00, closed Sun Nov-March; a 15-minute walk north of the Duomo at Via San Zanobi 120 red, tel. 055-488-992, www.florencebybike.it, info@florencebybike.it).
Travel Agency: While it’s easy to buy train tickets to destinations within Italy at handy machines at the station, travel agencies can be more convenient and helpful for getting international tickets, reservations, and supplements. The cost may be the same, or there may be a minimal charge. Ask your hotelier for the nearest travel agency.
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check www.ricksteves.com/update.
I organize my sightseeing geographically and do it all on foot. I think of Florence as a Renaissance treadmill—it requires a lot of walking. You likely won’t need public transit, except maybe to head up to Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato Church for the view, or to Fiesole.
Buses: The city’s full-size buses don’t cover the old center well (the whole area around the Duomo is off-limits to motorized traffic). The TI hands out a map of transit routes (information also available on their website—www.firenzeturismo.it). Of the many bus lines, I find these to be of most value for seeing outlying sights:
Buses #12 and #13 go from the train station to Porta Romana, up to San Miniato Church and Piazzale Michelangelo, and on to Santa Croce.
Bus #7 goes from Piazza San Marco (near the Accademia and Museum of San Marco) to Fiesole, a small town with big views of Florence.
The train station and Piazza San Marco are two major hubs near the city center; to get between these two, either walk (about 15 minutes) or take bus #1, #6, #14, or #23.
Fun little minibuses (many of them electric, elettrico) wind through the tangled old center of town and up and down the river—just €1.20 gets you a 1.5-hour joyride. These buses, which run every 10 minutes from 7:00 to 21:00 (less frequent on Sun), are popular with sore-footed sightseers and eccentric local seniors.
Bus #C1 stops behind the Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza Santa Croce, then heads north, passing near San Marco and the Accademia before ending up at Piazza Libertà.
Bus #C2 twists through the congested old center from the train station, passing near Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza della Signoria to Piazza Beccaria.
Bus #C3 goes up and down the Arno River, with stops near Ponte Vecchio, the Carraia bridge to the Oltrarno (including the Pitti Palace), and beyond.
Bus #D goes from the train station to Ponte Vecchio, cruises through the Oltrarno (passing the Pitti Palace), and finishes at Ponte San Niccolò.
The minibuses connect many major parking lots with the historical center (tickets sold at machines at lots).
Buy bus tickets at tobacco shops (tabacchi), newsstands, or the ATAF bus office on the west side of the train station (under the “digital” clock) on Piazza della Stazione (€1.20/90 minutes, €4.70/4 tickets, €5/24 hours, €12/3 days, €18/week, day passes aren’t always available in tobacco shops, validate in machine on the bus, tel. 800-424-500, www.ataf.net). You can sometimes buy tickets on board, but you’ll pay more (€2) and you’ll need exact change. City buses are free with the Firenze Card (see here). Follow general bus etiquette: Board at front or rear doors, exit out the center.
Taxi: The minimum cost for a taxi ride is €5, or €6 after 22:00 and on Sundays (rides in the center of town should be charged as tariff #1). A taxi ride from the train station to the Duomo costs about €8. Taxi fares and supplements (e.g., €2 extra if you call a cab rather than hail one) are clearly explained on signs in each taxi. Before getting in a cab at a stand or on the street, ask for an approximate cost (“Più o meno, quanto costa?” pew oh MEH-noh, KWAHN-toh KOH-stah). If you can’t get a straight answer or the price is outrageous, wait for the next one. It can be hard to find a cab on the street; to call one, dial 055-4390 or 055-4242 (or ask your waiter or hotelier to call for you).
Tour companies big and small offer plenty of excursions that go out to smaller towns in the Tuscan countryside (the most popular day trips: Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa, and into Chianti country for wine-tasting). Florence city tours are readily available, but for most people, the city is really best on foot (and the book you’re holding provides as much information as you’ll get with a generic bus tour). To sightsee on your own, download my series of free audio tours that illuminate some of Florence’s top sights and neighborhoods (see sidebar on here for details).
For extra insight with a personal touch, consider the tour companies and individual Florentine guides listed here. Hardworking and creative, they offer a worthwhile array of organized sightseeing activities. Study their websites for details. If you’re taking a city tour, remember that individuals save money with a scheduled public tour (such as those offered daily by Florencetown or ArtViva). If you’re traveling as a family or small group, however, you’re likely to save money by booking a private guide (since rates are based on roughly €55/hour for any size of group).
This company offers a variety of tours (up to 12/day year-round) featuring downtown Florence and museum highlights. Their guides are native English speakers. The three-hour “Original Florence” walk hits the main sights while weaving a picture of Florentine life in medieval and Renaissance times. Tours go rain or shine with as few as four participants (€25, daily at 9:15 in high season). Museum tours include the Uffizi Gallery (€39, includes admission, 2 hours), Accademia (called “Original David” tour, €35, includes admission, 1 hour), and “Original Florence in One Day” (€94, includes admission to Uffizi and Accademia plus 3-hour town walk, 6 hours). Their brochure and website list more activities, including biking and hiking tours, wine tours, and cooking classes. They also offer minibus tours throughout Tuscany (including Volterra—hard to reach by public transit) and Cinque Terre day trips (Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, Sun 8:30-13:30, near Piazza della Repubblica at Via de’ Sassetti 1, second floor, above Odeon Cinema, tel. 055-264-5033 during day or mobile 329-613-2730 from 18:00-20:00, www.artviva.com).
This well-organized company runs a variety of English-language tours. The boss, Luca Perfetto, offers student rates (10 percent discount) to anyone with this book, with an additional 10 percent off for second tours (if booking on their website, enter the code “RICKSTEVES2014” when prompted). Three tours—their basic town walk, bike tour, and cooking class—are worth considering: The “Walk and Talk Florence” tour, which takes 2.5 hours, hits all the basic spots, including the Oltrarno neighborhood (€19, daily at 10:00). The “I Bike Florence” tour gives you 2.5 hours on a vintage one-speed bike following a fast-talking guide on a blitz of the town’s top sights (€25, daily at 10:00 and 15:00, helmets optional, 15 stops on both sides of the river; in bad weather, the bike tours go as a walking tour). The cooking class includes a market tour (see listing later). Their office is two blocks from the Palazzo Vecchio at Via de Lamberti 1 (find steps off Via de’ Calzaiuoli on the river side of Orsanmichele Church); they also have a “Tourist Point” kiosk on Piazza della Repubblica, under the arches at the corner with Via Pellicceria (tel. 055-012-3994, www.florencetown.com).
Three art historians—Paola Barubiani and her partners Emma Molignoni and Marzia Valbonesi—provide quality guiding. Their company offers a daily 2.5-hour introductory tour (€50/person, 6 people maximum; outside except for a visit to see David, Accademia entry fee not included) and three-hour private tours (€180, €60/hour for more time, price is for groups of up to 4 people). They also offer an artisans-and-shopping tour, a guided evening walk, cooking classes with a market visit, private cruise excursions from the port of Livorno, and more—see their website for details (ask about Rick Steves rate for any tour, Paola’s mobile 335-526-6496, www.walksinsideflorence.com, paola@walksinsideflorence.it).
Top-notch private walking tours—geared for thoughtful, well-heeled travelers with longer-than-average attention spans—are led by Florentine scholars. The tours range from introductory city walks and museum visits to in-depth thematic walks, such as the Oltrarno neighborhood, Jewish Florence, and family-oriented tours (tours start at €250, includes personal assistance by email as you plan your trip, reserve in advance, www.florentia.org, info@florentia.org).
This scholarly group of graduate students and professors leads “walking seminars,” such as a 3.5-hour study of Michelangelo’s work and influence (€80/person, plus museum admission) and a two-hour evening orientation stroll (€65/person). I enjoyed the fascinating three-hour fresco workshop (€75/person plus materials, you take home a fresco you make yourself). See their website for other innovative offerings: Medici walk, lecture series, food walks, kids’ tours, and other programs throughout Europe (tel. 06-9672-7371, US tel. 800-691-6036, www.contexttravel.com, info@contexttravel.com).
Andy Steves (my son) runs Weekend Student Adventures, offering active and experiential three-day weekend tours for €199, designed for American students abroad (see www.wsaeurope.com for details on tours of Florence and other great European cities).
For something special, consider this five-hour experience offered by Florencetown. You’ll start with a trip to the Mercato Centrale for shopping and tasting, then settle into their kitchen for a cooking lesson that finishes with a big feast eating everything you’ve cooked. You’ll meet butchers and bakers, and make bruschetta, pasta, a main course, and dessert (likely tiramisù). Groups are intimate and small (from 1-25 people, €85/person, for 10 percent discount use the code “RICKSTEVES2014,” Mon-Sat 10:00-15:00, runs rain or shine, chef Giovanni, Via de Lamberti 1, tel. 055-012-3994, www.florencetown.com). They also offer a 3-hour pizza- and gelato-making class (€45, daily at 18:00).
Note that most of the tour companies recommended earlier offer similar classes.
Alessandra Marchetti, a Florentine who has lived in the US, gives private walking tours of Florence and driving tours of Tuscany (€60-75/hour, mobile 347-386-9839, aleoberm@tin.it).
Paola Migliorini and her partners offer museum tours, city walking tours, private cooking classes, wine tours, and Tuscan excursions by van—you can tailor tours as you like (€60/hour without car, €70/hour in an 8-seat van, tel. 055-472-448, mobile 347-657-2611, www.florencetour.com, info@florencetour.com); they also do private tours from the cruise-ship port of Livorno.
Roberto Bechi, a great guide based in Siena, can come pick you up in Florence for off-the-beaten-path tours of the Tuscan countryside (see contact information on here).
Around town, you’ll see big double-decker sightseeing buses double-parking near major sights. Tourists on the top deck can listen to brief recorded descriptions of the sights, snap photos, and enjoy a drive-by look at major landmarks (€20/1 calendar day, €25/48 hours, pay as you board, www.firenze.city-sightseeing.it). As the name implies, you can hop off when you want and catch the next bus (usually every 30 minutes, less frequently off-season). But since the most important sights are buried in the old center where big buses can’t go, Florence doesn’t really lend itself to this kind of tour bus. Look at the route map before committing.
500 Touring Club offers a unique look at Florence: from behind the wheel of one of the most iconic Italian cars, a vintage, restored Fiat 500. After a lesson in la doppietta (double-clutching), you’ll head off in a guided convoy, following a lead car with live commentary via the radio and photo stops at the best viewpoints. Tours depart from a 15th-century villa on the edge of town; the tiny Fiats are restored models from the 1960s and 1970s. Itineraries vary from basic sightseeing to countryside excursions with wine-making and lunch; see their website for options (classic 2.5-hour tour-€70/person, US tel. 347/535-0030, Italian mobile 346-826-2324, Via Gherardo Silvani 149a, www.500touringclub.com, info@500touringclub.com, Andrea).