To locate these hotels, see the map on here.
$$$ Hotel Alessandro della Spina, in a nondescript neighborhood near Pisa Centrale train station, has 16 elegant and colorful rooms, each named after a flower (Sb-€120, Db-€140, discounts off-season and online, air-con, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, parking-€10/day; head straight out of train station, turn right on Viale F. Bonaini, and take the third right on Via Alessandro della Spina to find the hotel on your left at #5; tel. 050-502-777, www.hoteldellaspina.it, info@hoteldellaspina.it).
$$ Hotel Royal Victoria, a classy place on the Arno River, has been run by the Piegaja family since 1837. With 48 creaky, historic rooms filled with antiques, it’s ideal for romantics who missed out on the Grand Tour. The location, dead-center between the Tower and Pisa Centrale train station, is the most atmospheric of my listings (D-€80, standard Db-€110, better Db-€130, suite-€210, family room-€260, breakfast-€5, 10 percent discount with this book if you book direct, check website for special deals, air-con on request, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€20/day, lush communal terrace, Lungarno Pacinotti 12, tel. 050-940-111, www.royalvictoria.it, mail@royalvictoria.it).
$$ Hotel Villa Kinzica has 30 tired, worn rooms with high ceilings, and a prime location just steps from the Field of Miracles—ask for a room with a view of the Tower (Sb-€70, Db-€95, Tb-€109, Qb-€119, better prices off-season, air-con, elevator, Piazza Arcivescovado 2, tel. 050-560-419, www.hotelvillakinzica.it, info@hotelvillakinzica.it).
$ Residenza Gorkij, recently opened by good-natured Lucca and his Russian wife, offers eight tasteful rooms—some with frescoed ceilings—in a converted historic building in the town center. Two minutes from Piazza dei Cavalieri and 10 minutes from the Leaning Tower, this is a comfortable, good-value option (Sb-€45, Db-€55, Tb-€65, show this book to get these reduced rates, air-con, Wi-Fi, elevator, 2 rooms have small kitchen, call or email ahead with your arrival time—there’s no staff on-site, Piazza Donati 13, tel. 050-580-395, mobile 334-132-9859, www.gorkij.it, info@gorkij.it).
$ Hotel Milano, near Pisa Centrale train station, offers 10 simple, clean rooms (D-€55, Db-€78, 10 percent discount for Rick Steves readers if you book direct, breakfast extra, Wi-Fi, air-con, TV in rooms, Via Mascagni 14, tel. 050-23-162, www.hotelmilano.pisa.it, info@hotelmilano.pisa.it).
$ Pensione Helvetia is a no-frills, homey, clean, and quiet inn just 100 yards from the Tower. Its 29 economical rooms are spread over four floors (no elevator); the lower your room number, the lower your altitude (S-€45, Sb-€54, D-€54, Db-€60, Tb-€75, no breakfast but small lounge with vending machines, ceiling fans, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Via Don G. Boschi 31, reception around the corner at Hotel Francesco on Via Santa Maria, tel. 050-553-084, www.pensionehelvetiapisa.com, helvetiapisatravel@gmail.com, Maria Sandra and Micaele).
$ Locanda La Lanterna and Antica Locanda San Ranieri combine to offer 28 characteristic and comfortable rooms in their main location (on Via Santa Maria) and their less spacious Ranieri annex (in a narrow side street nearby). Both are run by down-to-earth Senora Angela (ask to see her old Italian lira-note collection). Rooms are on three or four floors, with no elevator; the bathrooms are plain and cramped (Sb-€45, Db-€65, Tb-€75, annex-€10 less per room, air-con, Wi-Fi, street parking-€8, 5 minutes from the Tower on Via Santa Maria 113, tel. 050-830-305, www.locandalalanterna.com, info@anticalocandalalanterna.com).
$ Two Steps from the Tower B&B, in the historic center just a few blocks east of the Field of Miracles, offers three Ikea-style rooms in a modern apartment block (Sb-€30-40, Db-€55-70, extra bed-€15, weekly rates available, free Wi-Fi, kitchen use-€10/day, 2 rooms have access to small garden, Via Cardinale Pietro Maffi 6, tel. 347-394-6559, www.2stepsfromtower.com, info@2stepsfromtower.com).
(See “Pisa” map, here.)
Antica Trattoria il Campano, just off the market square, has a typically Tuscan menu and a candlelit, stay-awhile atmosphere. Their €30-€35 tasting menus include wine and generous portions of local specialties (Fri-Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-22:45, Thu 19:30-22:45, closed Wed, reservations smart, Via Cavalca 19, tel. 050-580-585, Giovanna).
Ristorante Masala serves tasty, authentic Indian cuisine just a few blocks from the Tower. As there is a large Indian community in Pisa, this is a great place to take a break from pizza and pasta (€4-9 curries, vegetarian options, Tue-Sun 19:00-23:00, closed Mon, Via Roma 52, tel. 050-48513).
At Ristorante Bagus the specialties are an extra-rare burger made with the famous Chianina beef and trendy twists on typical Tuscan fare (€30 fixed-price meal, Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-23:00, Sat 19:30-23:00 only, closed Sun; heading south on Corso Italia, turn right on Via Nunziata and take your first right after Piazza Griletti to Piazza dei Facchini 13; tel. 050-26196).
Da Michele is a handy choice if you are sleeping near the train station. A family-run, basic affair, the home-cooking is tasty and reasonably priced, and the place stays open late. The tiramisù is a classic (daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, except sometimes closed Wed; 3-minute walk from recommended Hotel Alessandro della Spina heading toward the station at Viale Bonaini 96/100, tel. 050-24128).
Pizzeria al Bagno di Nerone is a local favorite and particularly popular with students. Belly up to the bar and grab a slice to go, or sit in their small dining room for a whole pie. Try the cecina, a crepe-like garbanzo-bean cake (Wed-Mon 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:30, closed Tue, a 5-minute walk from the Tower at Largo Carlo Fedeli 26, tel. 050-551-085).
At Paninoteca il Canguro, Fabio makes warm, hearty sandwiches to order. Check the chalkboard for seasonal specials, such as porchetta (daily 9:00-24:00, may be closed Sun in winter, Via Santa Maria 151, tel. 050-561-942).
Panetteria Antiche Tradizioni—not to be confused with another panetteria across the street—is a sandwich/bread shop with complete fixings for a picnic. Build your own sandwich with homemade bread or focaccia, then choose fruit from the counter, fresh pastries from the window, and cold drinks or wine to round out your meal (daily 8:00-20:00, Via Santa Maria 66, mobile 327-570-5210).
Drop by cheery La Lupa Ghiotta Tavola Calda for a cheap, fast, and tasty meal a few steps from Pisa Centrale train station. It’s got everything you’d want from a ristorante at half the price and with faster service (build your own salad—five ingredients for €4.50; Mon-Sat 12:15-15:00 & 19:15-23:30, closed Sun, Viale F. Bonaini 113, tel. 050-21018).
The street that houses the daily market, Via delle Colonne (a block north of the Arno, west of Borgo Stretto), has a few atmospheric, mid-priced restaurants and several fun, greasy take-out options.
Pisa is well-connected by trains, buses (particularly with Lucca), and highways, with a busy airport nearby.
From Pisa Centrale Station by Train to: Florence (2-3/hour, 45-75 minutes, €7.80), Livorno (2-3/hour, 20 minutes, €2.50), Rome (2/hour, many change in Florence, 3-4 hours), La Spezia, gateway to Cinque Terre (about hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Siena (2/hour, 1.75 hours, change at Empoli, €9.80), Lucca (1-2/hour, 30 minutes, bus is better except on Sun—see below, €3). Even the fastest trains stop in Pisa, so you might change trains here whether you plan to stop or not.
By Bus to Lucca: A handy bus connects the Field of Miracles with Lucca’s Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi in 30 minutes (Mon-Sat hourly, fewer on Sun; in Pisa, wait at the Vai Bus signpost, immediately outside the wall behind the Baptistery on the right; also stops at Pisa’s airport, buy €3 ticket on bus). This makes a half-day side-trip to Pisa from Lucca particularly easy.
By Car: The drive between Pisa and Florence is that rare case where the non-autostrada highway (free, more direct, and at least as fast) is a better deal than the autostrada.
By Plane: Pisa’s Galileo Galilei Airport handles more and more international and domestic flights (daily April-Oct 9:00-23:00, Nov-March 9:00-20:00, tel. 050-502-518; cash machine, car-rental agencies, baggage storage from 9:00-19:00 only—€7/bag, self-service cafeteria; airport code: PSA, tel. 050-849-300, www.pisa-airport.com).
To get into Pisa, you can take bus LAM Rossa (4-6/hour, runs until 20:30, 15 minutes, pay €1.50 on board or €1.10 if you purchase ticket in advance at kiosk, departs from in front of arrivals hall); a train (departs from the far left of the arrivals hall as you face the exits); or a taxi (€10-12).
You can connect to Florence easily by train (2-3/hour, 1.25 hours, €7.80, most transfer at Pisa Centrale) or by Terravision bus (about hourly, 1.25 hours, €5 one-way, ticket kiosk is at the right end of the arrivals hall as you’re facing the exits, catch bus outside and to the far right of the bus parking lot, leaves you at Santa Maria Novella station, www.terravision.eu).