Fancy Little Boutique B&Bs Within the Walls
Sleeping More Forgettably Within the Walls
Surrounded by well-preserved ramparts, layered with history, alternately quaint and urbane, Lucca charms its visitors. The city is a paradox. Though it hasn’t been involved in a war since 1430, it is Italy’s most impressive fortress city, encircled by a perfectly intact wall. Most cities tear down their wall to make way for modern traffic, but Lucca’s effectively keeps out both traffic and, it seems, the stress of the modern world. Locals are very protective of their wall, which they enjoy like a community roof garden.
Lucca, known for being Europe’s leading producer of toilet paper and tissue (with a monopoly on the special machinery that makes it), is nothing to sneeze at. However, the town has no single monumental sight to attract tourists—it’s simply a uniquely human and undamaged, never-bombed city. Romanesque churches seem to be around every corner, as do funloving and shady piazzas filled with soccer-playing children.
Locals say Lucca is like a cake with a cherry filling in the middle...every slice is equally good. Despite Lucca’s charm, few tourists seem to put it on their maps, and it remains a city for the Lucchesi (loo-KAY-zee).
Low-impact Lucca has no must-see sights, but its pleasant ambience, ample churches, and pristine piazzas reward any time you’ve got. With the better part of a day, stroll through the town center, dipping into the sights that interest you. Once you’ve had your fill, rent a bike and do a few spins around the ramparts (or do the loop in slow motion, by foot) before dinner.
Lucca has two TIs. The main TI, on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi, offers city information and a no-fee room-booking service (daily April-Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-March 9:00-17:00, futuristic WC-€0.60, tel. 0583-583-150, www.luccaitinera.it). It also has Internet access, baggage storage, and bike rentals (all described under “Helpful Hints,” later) and guided city walks (see “Tours in Lucca,” later).
The second TI, which may be useful for drivers, is west of town on Via Luporini (between Via Parri and Via delle Città Gemelle), at the tourist-bus checkpoint and near parking (April-Sept 9:00-17:00, tel. 0583-583-462).
By Train: There is no baggage check at the train station, but you can leave luggage at Tourist Center Lucca (near the station) or at the main TI on Piazzale Guiseppe Verdi (see “Helpful Hints” for specifics on both).
To reach the city center from the train station, walk toward the walls and head left, to the entry at Porta San Pietro. Taxis are sparse, but try calling 025-353 (ignore any recorded message—just wait for a live operator); a ride from the station to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro costs about €10.
By Bus: Buses from Pisa, Viareggio, and from nearby villages arrive inside the walls at Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi, where the main TI is located.
By Car: The key for drivers—don’t try to drive within the walls. The old town is ringed by parking lots (with two just inside the walls, both usually full).
An easy option is to park near the tour-bus lot and second TI, not far from the southwest wall. As you leave the autostrada, follow signs for Bus Turistico Checkpoint, which will lead you to parking lots on Via Luporini—one is for buses, but the other has free and paid parking for cars. White lines denote free parking, and blue lines are paid parking (daily 8:00-20:00, €1-1.50/hour, pay at automated kiosks). Avoid the yellow lines—these spots are for locals only. From here it’s about a five-minute walk to Porta Sant’Anna.
Parking is always free in Piazzale Don Franco, a five-minute walk north of the city walls. If you must park inside the city walls, try just inside Porta Santa Maria (€1.50/hour). Or consider parking outside the gates near the train station or on the boulevard surrounding the city (meter rates vary; also about €1/hour). Overnight parking (20:00-8:00) on city streets and in city lots is usually free. Check with your hotelier to be sure.
Combo-Tickets: A €7 combo-ticket includes visits to the Ilaria del Carretto tomb in San Martino Cathedral (€3), Cathedral Museum (€4), and San Giovanni Church (€4). A €6 comboticket combines the Guinigi Tower (€4) and the Clock Tower (€4). Yet another combo-ticket covers Palazzo Mansi and Villa Guinigi for €6.50 and is valid for three days (€4 each if purchased separately).
Shops and Museums Alert: Shops close most of Sunday and Monday mornings. Many museums are closed on Monday as well.
Markets: Lucca’s atmospheric markets are worth visiting. Every third weekend of the month (whenever the third Sun falls), one of the largest antique markets in Italy sprawls in the blocks between Piazza Antelminelli and Piazza San Giovanni (8:00-19:00). The last weekend of the month, local artisans sell arts and crafts around town, mainly near the cathedral (also 8:00-19:00). At the general market, held Wednesdays and Saturdays, you’ll find produce and household goods (8:30-13:00, from Porta Elisa to Porta San Jacopo on Via dei Bacchettoni).
Concerts: San Giovanni Church hosts one-hour concerts featuring a pianist and singers performing highlights from hometown composer Giacomo Puccini (€20 at the door, €18 advance purchase at TI and some hotels, daily April-Oct at 19:00, Nov-March check schedule and location at www.puccinielasualucca.com).
Festival: On September 13 and 14, the city celebrates Volto Santo (“Holy Face”), with a procession of the treasured local crucifix and a fair in Piazza Antelminelli.
Internet Access: You can get online (you need your ID or a copy of your passport) at the main TI on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi (€2/hour, two terminals, Wi-Fi same price) or at Betty Blue, a wine bar handy to the recommended launderette (€3.50/hour, two terminals and cables to plug in your laptop, Thu-Tue 13:00-24:00, closed Wed, Via del Gonfalone 18, tel. 0583-492-166).
Baggage Storage: For train travelers, the most convenient storage spot is Tourist Center Lucca (on the left side of the square as you exit the train station, daily April-Oct 9:00-20:00, Nov-March 9:00-18:00, €3-9). The main TI on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi is more convenient to buses (2 bags for €4.50/5 hours, €7/day, daily 9:00-17:30, they need to photocopy your passport). In a pinch, you may be able to store bags at the recommended Hotel Rex (near the train station).
Laundry: Lavanderia Self-Service Niagara is just off Piazza Santa Maria at Via Rosi 26 (€9 wash and dry, daily 7:00-23:00).
Bike Rental: A one-hour rental (ID required) gives you time for two leisurely loops around the ramparts. Several places with identical prices cluster around Piazza Santa Maria (€3/hour, €15/day, tandem bikes available, helmets available on request, daily about 9:00-19:00 or sunset). Try these easygoing shops: Antonio Poli (Piazza Santa Maria 42, tel. 0583-493-787, enthusiastic Cristiana) and, right next to it, Cicli Bizzarri (Piazza Santa Maria 32, tel. 0583-496-682, Australian Dely). At the west end of town, the TI on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi rents bikes (€3/hour). At the south end, at Porta San Pietro, you’ll find Chrono (same rates and hours as the competition, Corso Garibaldi 93, tel. 0583-490-591, www.chronobikes.com) and Tourist Center Lucca (near the train station).
Local Magazine: For insights into American and British expat life and listings of concerts, markets, festivals, and other special events, pick up a copy of the Grapevine (€2), available at newsstands.
Cooking Class: Gianluca Pardini invites you to the hills above Lucca to learn to make Tuscan fare. You prepare and then eat a three-course meal. Depending on how many others attend, the price ranges from €50 (a steal) to a whopping €125 per person. This is great for groups of four or more (€14 cab ride from town, 3-hour lesson plus time to dine, includes wine, reserve at least 2 days in advance, Via di San Viticchio 414, tel. 0583-378-071, mobile 347-678-7447, www.italiancuisine.it, info@italiancuisine.it).
The TI offers two-hour city walks with a local guide, departing from the office on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi (€10, daily at 14:00, tel. 0583-583-150).
Gabriele Calabrese knows and shares his hometown well (€120/3 hours, by foot or bike, mobile 347-788-0667, www.turislucca.com, turislucca@turislucca.com).
Cathedral Museum (Museo della Cattedrale)
Lucca’s most remarkable feature, its Renaissance wall, is also its most enjoyable attraction—especially when circled on a rental bike. Stretching for 2.5 miles, this is an ideal place to come for an overview of the city by foot or bike.
Lucca has had a protective wall for 2,000 years. You can read three walls into today’s map: the first rectangular Roman wall, the later medieval wall (nearly the size of today’s), and the 16th-century Renaissance wall that still survives.
With the advent of cannons, thin medieval walls were suddenly vulnerable. A new design—the same one that stands today—was state-of-the-art when it was built (1550-1650). Much of the old medieval wall (look for the old stones) was incorporated into the Renaissance wall (with uniform bricks). The new wall was squat: a 100-foot-wide mound of dirt faced with bricks, engineered to absorb a cannonball pummeling. The townspeople cleared a wide no-man’s-land around the town, exposing any attackers from a distance. Eleven heart-shaped bastions (now inviting picnic areas) were designed to minimize exposure to cannonballs and to maximize defense capabilities. The ramparts were armed with 130 cannons.
The town invested a third of its income for more than a century to construct the wall, and—since it kept away the Florentines and nasty Pisans—it was considered a fine investment. In fact, nobody ever bothered to try to attack the wall. Locals say that the only time it actually defended the city was during an 1812 flood of the Serchio River, when the gates were sandbagged and its ramparts kept out the high water.
Today, the ramparts seem made-to-order for a leisurely bike ride (20-minute pedal, wonderfully smooth). You can rent bikes cheaply and easily from one of several bike-rental places in town (listed earlier, under “Helpful Hints”).
Just off the main shopping street, the architectural ghost of a Roman amphitheater can be felt in the delightful Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. With the fall of Rome, the theater (which seated 10,000) was gradually cannibalized for its stones and inhabited by people living in a mishmash of huts. The huts were cleared away at the end of the 19th century to better show off the town’s illustrious past. Today, the square is a circle of touristy shops and mediocre restaurants that becomes a lively bar-and-café scene after dark. The modern street level is nine feet above the original arena floor. The only bits of surviving Roman stonework are a few arches on the northern exterior (at Via Fillungo 42 and on Via dell’Anfiteatro).
This main pedestrian drag stretches southwest from Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. The street to stroll, Via Fillungo takes you from the amphitheater almost all the way to the cathedral. Along the way, you’ll get a taste of Lucca’s rich past, including several elegant, century-old storefronts. Many of the original storefront paintings, reliefs, and mosaics survive—even if today’s shopkeeper sells something entirely different.
At #97 is a classic old jewelry store with a rare storefront that has kept its T-shaped arrangement (when closed, you see a wooden T, and during open hours it unfolds with a fine old-time display). This design dates from a time when the merchant sold his goods in front, did his work in the back, and lived upstairs.
Di Simo Caffè, at #58 (but currently closed), has long been the hangout of Lucca’s artistic and intellectual elite. Composer and hometown boy Giacomo Puccini tapped his foot while sipping coffee here.
A surviving five-story tower house is at #67. There was a time when nearly every corner sported its own tower (see the sidebar). The stubby stones that still stick out once supported wooden staircases (there were no interior connections between floors). So many towers cast shadows over this part of town that the street just before it is called Via Buia (Dark Street). Look away from this tower and down Via San Andrea for a peek at the town’s tallest tower, Guinigi, in the distance—with its characteristic oak trees sprouting from the top.
At #45 and #43, you’ll see two more good examples of tower houses. Across the street, the Clock Tower (Torre delle Ore) has a hand-wound Swiss clock that has clanged four times an hour since 1754 (€4 to climb up and see the mechanism flip into action on the quarter-hour—if it’s actually working, €6 combo-ticket includes Guinigi Tower, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:30, Nov-March 9:30-17:30, last entry 20 minutes before closing, corner of Via Fillungo and Via del’Arancio).
The intersection of Via Fillungo and Via Roma/Via Santa Croce marks the center of town (where the two original Roman roads crossed). As you go right down Via Roma, you’ll pass the fine Edison Bookstore on your left before reaching Piazza San Michele.
This square has been the center of town since Roman times, when it was the forum. It’s dominated by the Church of San Michele. Towering above the church’s fancy Pisan Romanesque facade, the archangel Michael stands ready to flap his wings—which he was known to do on special occasions.
The square is surrounded by an architectural hodgepodge. The loggia, which dates from 1495, is the first Renaissance building in town. There’s a late 19th-century interior in Buccellato Taddeucci, a 130-year old pastry shop (#34). The left section of the BNL bank (#5; in front of the church) sports an Art Nouveau facade that celebrates both Amerigo Vespucci and Cristoforo Colombo.
Perhaps you’ve noticed that the statues of big shots that decorate many an Italian piazza are mostly absent from Lucca’s squares. That’s because unlike Venice, Florence, and Milan—which were dominated by a few powerful dynasties—Lucca was traditionally run by an oligarchy of a hundred leading families, with no one central figure to commemorate in stone. But after Italian unification, when leaders were fond of saying, “We have created Italy...now we need to create Italians,” stirring statues of national heroes popped up everywhere—even in Lucca. The statue on Piazza San Michele is a two-bit local guy, dredged up centuries after his death because he favored strong central government.
Look back at the church facade, which also has an element of patriotism—designed to give roots and legitimacy to Italian statehood. Perched above many of the columns are the faces of heroes in the Italian independence and unification movement: Victor Emmanuel II (above the short red column on the right), the Count of Cavour (next to Victor, above the column with black zigzags), and Giuseppe Mazzini.
This cathedral, begun in the 11th century, is an entertaining mix of architectural and artistic styles. It’s also home to the exquisite 15th-century tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, who married into the wealthy Guinigi family.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral—free, Ilaria tomb—€3, €7 combo-ticket includes Cathedral Museum and San Giovanni Church; Mon-Fri 9:30-17:45, Sat 9:30-18:45; Sun 11:00-17:00; Piazza San Martino.
Visiting the Cathedral: The cathedral’s elaborate Pisan Romanesque facade features Christian teaching scenes, animals, and candy-cane-striped columns.
The central figure is St. Martin, a Roman military officer from Hungary who, by offering his cloak to a beggar, more fully understood the beauty of Christian compassion. (The impressive original, a fine example of Romanesque sculpture, hides from pollution just inside, to the right of the main entrance.) Each of the columns on the facade is unique. Notice how the facade is asymmetrical: The 11th-century bell tower was already in place when the rest of the cathedral was built, so the builders cheated on the right side to make it fit the space. Over the right portal (as if leaning against the older tower), the architect Guideo from Como holds a document declaring that he finished the facade in 1204. On the right (at eye level on the pilaster), a labyrinth is set into the wall. The maze relates the struggle and challenge our souls face in finding salvation. (French pilgrims on their way to Rome could relate to this, as it’s the same pattern they knew from the floor of the church at Chartres.) The Latin plaque just left of the main door is where money changers and spice traders met to seal deals (on the doorstep of the church—to underscore the reliability of their promises). Notice the date: An Dni MCXI (A.D. 1111).
The interior features Gothic arches, Renaissance paintings, and stained glass from the 19th century. On the left side of the nave, a small, elaborate, birdcage-like temple contains the wooden crucifix—beloved by locals—called Volto Santo. It’s said to have been sculpted by Nicodemus in Jerusalem and set afloat in an unmanned boat that landed on the coast of Tuscany, from where wild oxen miraculously carried it to Lucca in 782. The sculpture (which is actually 12th-century Byzantine-style) has quite a jewelry collection, which you can see in the Cathedral Museum (described next).
On the right side of the nave, the sacristy houses the enchantingly beautiful memorial tomb of Ilaria del Carretto by Jacopo della Quercia (1407). Pick up a handy English description to the right of the door as you enter the sacristy. This young bride of silk baron Paolo Guinigi is decked out in the latest, most expensive fashions, with the requisite little dog (symbolizing her loyalty) curled up at her feet in eternal sleep. She’s so realistic that the statue was nicknamed “Sleeping Beauty.” Her nose is partially worn off because of a long-standing tradition of lonely young ladies rubbing it for luck in finding a boyfriend.
This beautifully presented museum houses original paintings, sculptures, and vestments from the cathedral and other Lucca churches. The first room displays jewelry made to dress up the Volto Santo crucifix (described earlier), including gigantic gilded silver shoes. Upstairs, notice the fine red brocaded silk—a reminder that this precious fabric is what brought riches and power to the city. The exhibits in this museum have very brief descriptions and are meaningful only with the slow-talking €1 audioguide—if you’re not in the mood to listen, skip the place altogether.
Cost and Hours: €4, €7 combo-ticket includes Ilaria tomb and San Giovanni Church; April-Oct daily 10:00-18:00; Nov-March Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00; to the left of the cathedral as you’re facing it, Piazza Antelminelli, tel. 0583-490-530, www.museocattedralelucca.it.
This first cathedral of Lucca is interesting only for its archaeological finds. The entire floor of the 12th-century church has been excavated in recent decades, revealing layers of Roman houses, ancient hot tubs that date back to the time of Christ, early churches, and theological graffiti. Sporadic English translations help you understand what you’re looking at. As you climb under the church’s present-day floor and wander the lanes of Roman Lucca, remember that the entire city sits on similar ruins. If it’s open, climb the campanile (bell tower) of the church for a panoramic view of the city.
Cost and Hours: €4, €7 combo-ticket includes Ilaria tomb and Cathedral Museum, audioguide-€1; mid-March-Oct daily 10:00-18:00; Nov-mid-March Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon-Fri; see concert info on here; kitty-corner from cathedral at Piazza San Giovanni.
This impressive church was built in 1112 by the pope to counter Lucca’s bishop and his spiffy cathedral. Lucca was the first Mediterranean stop on the pilgrim route from northern Europe, and the pope wanted to remind pilgrims that the action, the glory, and the papacy awaited them in Rome. Therefore, he had the church made “Roman-esque.” The pure marble facade frames an early Christian Roman-style mosaic of Christ with his 12 apostles. Step inside and you’re struck by the sight of 40 powerful (if recycled) ancient Roman columns. The message: Lucca may be impressive, but the finale of your pilgrimage—in Rome—is worth the hike.
Inside, there’s a notable piece of art in each corner: At rear left is the 12th-century baptistery, with some interesting Church propaganda showing the story of Moses (the evil Egyptians are played by Holy Roman Empire troops). At rear right is St. Zita’s actual body, put there in 1278. At front left is a particularly elegant Virgin Mary, depicted at the moment she gets the news that she’ll bring the Messiah into the world (carved and painted by Lucchesi artist Matteo Civitali, c. 1460). And at front right is a painting on wood of the Assumption of the Virgin (c. 1510), with Doubting Thomas receiving Mary’s red belt as she ascends so he’ll doubt no more. The pinball-machine composition serves as a virtual catalog of the fine silk material produced in Lucca—a major industry in the 16th century.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 8:30-12:00 & 15:00-17:30, Sun 9:00-11:30 & 15:00-17:30, Piazza San Frediano, tel. 0583-493-627.
Minor paintings by Tintoretto, Pontormo, Veronese, and others vie for attention, but the palace itself—a sumptuously furnished and decorated 17th-century confection—steals the show. This is your chance to appreciate the wealth of Lucca’s silk merchants. Since all visitors must be accompanied by a museum employee, during high season you may have to wait a bit for your chance to enter.
Cost and Hours: €4, €6.50 combo-ticket includes Villa Guinigi, hours prone to change but generally Tue-Sat 8:30-19:30, Sun 8:30-13:30, closed Mon, no photos, request English booklet at ticket desk, Via Galli Tassi 43, tel. 0583-55-570.
Many Tuscan towns have towers, but none is quite like the Guinigi family’s. Up 227 steps is a small garden with fragrant trees, surrounded by fantastic views.
Cost and Hours: €4, €6 combo-ticket includes Clock Tower, daily April-May 9:30-18:30, June-Sept 9:30-19:30, March and Oct 9:30-17:30, Nov-Feb 9:30-16:30, Via Sant’Andrea 41.
Opera enthusiasts (but nobody else) will want to visit the home where Giacomo Puccini (1858-1924) grew up. The museum has the great composer’s piano and a small collection of his personal belongings, as well as opera costumes and memorabilia.
Cost and Hours: €7; April-Oct Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, Nov-March Wed-Mon 11:00-17:00, closed Tue year-round; Corte San Lorenzo 9, ring to be let in, tel. 0583-584-028, www.puccinimuseum.it.
Garden enthusiasts (and anyone needing a break from churches) will enjoy this 18th-century palace built for a rich Swiss expat who came to Lucca to open a brewery. His sudsy legacy includes Baroque furniture, elaborate frescoes, a centuries-old kitchen, and a lavish garden.
Cost and Hours: Garden or residence-€4.50 apiece, €6 for both, April-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, closed Nov-March, Via degli Asili 33, tel. 0583-954-029, www.palazzopfanner.it.
Built by Paolo Guinigi in 1418, the family villa is now a stark, abandoned-feeling museum displaying a hodgepodge of Etruscan artifacts, religious sculptures, paintings, inlaid woodwork, and ceramics. Monumental paintings by the multitalented Giorgio Vasari are the best reason to visit.
Cost and Hours: €4, €6.50 combo-ticket includes Palazzo Mansi, Tue-Sat 8:30-19:30, Sun 8:30-13:30, closed Mon, may have to wait in high season for a museum employee to accompany you, Via della Quarquonia, tel. 0583-496-033.
$$$ La Romea B&B, in an air-conditioned, restored, 14th-century palazzo near Guinigi Tower, feels like a royal splurge. Its four posh rooms and one suite are lavishly decorated in handsome colors and surround a big, plush lounge with stately Venetian-style floors (Db-€100-135 depending on season, big suite-€160, extra bed-€20-25; 10 percent discount when you book direct, show this book, and pay cash; Wi-Fi; from the train station, take Via Fillungo, turn right on Via Sant’Andrea, then take the second right to Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2; tel. 0583-464-175, www.laromea.com, info@laromea.com, Giulio and wife Gaia).
$$$ La Locanda Sant’Agostino has three romantic, bright, and palatial rooms. The vine-draped terrace, beautiful breakfast spread, and quaint views invite you to relax (Db-€160, extra bed-€25, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, from Via Fillungo take Via San Giorgio to Piazza Sant’Agostino 3, best to reserve by email, tel. 0583-443-100, mobile 347-989-9069, www.locandasantagostino.it, info@locandasantagostino.it).
$$ La Bohème B&B has a cozy yet elegant ambience, offering six large, charming, chandeliered rooms, each painted with a different, rich color scheme (Db-€125, less off-season, 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash and book direct, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via del Moro 2, tel. 0583-462-404, www.boheme.it, info@boheme.it, Sara).
$$ Hotel la Luna, run by the Barbieri family, has 29 rooms in a great location, right in the heart of the city. Updated rooms are split between two adjacent buildings just off of the main shopping street. The annex may have an elevator, but I prefer the rooms in the main building, which are larger and classier (Sb-€90, Db-€125, suite-€190, these prices for Rick Steves readers who book direct, air-con, pay guest computer and Wi-Fi, parking-€20/day, Via Fillungo at Corte Compagni 12, tel. 0583-493-634, www.hotellaluna.com, info@hotellaluna.com, Sara).
$$ Alla Dimora Lucense’s seven newer rooms are bright, modern, clean, and peaceful, with all the comforts. Enjoy their relaxing, sunny interior courtyard (Db-€125, suite for 2-4 people-€150-200; 5 percent discount if you pay cash, book direct, and show this book; air-con, Wi-Fi, half a block from Via Fillungo at Via Fontana 19, tel. 0583-495-722, www.dimoralucense.it, info@dimoralucense.it).
$$ Hotel Universo, renting 55 rooms right on Piazza Napoleone and facing the theater and Palazzo Ducale, is a 19th-century town fixture. While it clearly was once elegant, now it’s old and tired, with a big Old World lounge and soft prices (“comfort” Db-€100, “superior” Db with updated bath-€130, Wi-Fi, Piazza del Giglio 1, tel. 0583-493-678, www.universolucca.com, info@universolucca.com).
$$ La Magnolia B&B offers five basic rooms with an intimate atmosphere and relaxing garden. It’s buried in a ramshackle old palace in a central location (Sb-€70, Db-€90, a block behind amphitheater at Via Mordini 63, tel. 0583-467-111, www.lamagnolia.com, info@lamagnolia.com).
$$ A Palazzo Busdraghi has seven comfortable, pastel-colored rooms with modern baths (some with Jacuzzi-style tubs) in a tastefully converted 13th-century palace inside a courtyard just off Via Fillungo (Sb-€120, Db-€150-170, extra bed-€10, cheaper prices off-season, air-con, Wi-Fi, parking-€15, Via Fillungo 170, tel. 0583-950-856, www.apalazzobusdraghi.it, info@apalazzobusdraghi.it, Marta).
$ At Le Violette B&B, friendly Anna (who’s still learning English) will settle you into one of her six homey rooms near the train station inside Porta San Pietro (S-€40, D-€60, Db-€75, extra bed-€15, Wi-Fi, communal kitchen, €5 to use washer and dryer, Via della Polveriera 6, tel. 0583-493-594, mobile 349-823-4645, www.leviolette.it, leviolette@virgilio.it).
$ Ostello San Frediano, in a central, sprawling ex-convent with a peaceful garden, is a cut above the average hostel, though it’s still filled mainly with a young crowd. Its 29 rooms are bright and modern, and some have fun lofts (€20 beds in 6- to 8-person dorms, 140 beds, Db-€65, Tb-€80, Qb-€105, includes sheets, €2 extra/night for non-members, cash only, breakfast extra, no curfew, lockers, guest computer, Wi-Fi, cheap restaurant, free parking, Via della Cavallerizza 12, tel. 0583-469-957, www.ostellolucca.it, info@ostellolucca.it).
$$$ Hotel San Marco, a seven-minute walk outside the Porta Santa Maria, is a postmodern place decorated à la Stanley Kubrick. Its 42 rooms are sleek, with all the comforts (Sb-€87, Db-€136, extra bed-€10, includes nice breakfast spread, air-con, Wi-Fi, elevator, pool, bikes-€6/half-day, free parking, taxi from station-€10, Via San Marco 368, tel. 0583-495-010, www.hotelsanmarcolucca.com, info@hotelsanmarcolucca.com).
$$ Hotel Rex rents 25 rooms in a practical contemporary building on the train station square. While in the modern world, you’re just 200 yards away from the old town and get more space for a better price (Db-€80-100; 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash and book direct, does not apply to prepaid/nonrefundable rooms booked online; air-con, Wi-Fi, free bike rental, a few steps from the train station at Piazza Ricasoli 19, tel. 0583-955-443, www.hotelrexlucca.com, info@hotelrexlucca.com).
$$ Hotel Moderno is indeed modern, with 12 good-value rooms tastefully decorated in shades of white. Although it backs up to the train tracks, the rooms are quiet (Sb-€70, Db-€90, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Vincenzo Civitali 38—turn left out of train station and go over bridge across tracks, tel. 0583-55-840, www.albergomodernolucca.com, info@albergomodernolucca.com).
$ La Mimosa B&B has five cozy rooms a 10-minute walk west of Porta Sant’Anna. Most practical if you’re arriving or leaving Lucca by bus, this trendy little house is run by the Zichi cousins, Giuseppe and Stefano, and decorated with modern paintings by Uncle Zichi. It’s located on a main road, but double-paned windows reduce traffic noise (Sb-€50, Db-€80, Qb-€120, cheaper prices off-season, air-con, Wi-Fi, free street parking nearby, Via Pisana 66; leave Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi through Porta Sant’Anna, swing right, then cross road, walk straight down Via Catalani, and take second road on the left; tel. 0583-583-121, www.bblamimosa.it, info@bblamimosa.it).
$ Sogni d’Oro Guest House (“Dreams of Gold”), run by Davide, is a handy budget option for drivers, with five basic rooms and a cheery communal kitchen (grocery store next door). It’s a 10-minute walk from the train station and a five-minute walk from the city walls (D-€50, Db-€65, Q-€70, 10 percent discount with cash; free ride to and from station with advance notice—then call when your train arrives in Lucca; from the station, head straight out to Viale Regina Margherita and turn right, follow the main boulevard as it turns into Viale Giuseppe Giusti, at the curve turn right onto Via Antonio Cantore to #169; tel. 0583-467-768, mobile 329-582-5062, www.bbsognidoro.com, info@bbsognidoro.com).
Ristorante Canuleia is run by enthusiastic Matteo and Eleonora, who make everything fresh in their small kitchen. You can eat tasty Tuscan cuisine in a dressy little dining room or outside on the garden courtyard (€10 pastas, €17 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:00, closed Mon, Via Canuleia 14, tel. 0583-467-470, call to reserve for dinner).
Port Ellen Clan is an unusual concept in traditional Lucca—a combination restaurant, wine bar, and whisky bar (featuring more than 150 types of whisky). Though the cuisine is typically Tuscan, the theme is creative and original, with a Scottish twist (€9 pastas, €15 secondi, Wed-Sun 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-24:00, closed Mon-Tue, Via del Fosso 120, tel. 0583-493-952 or 329-245-2762, www.portellenclan.com).
Osteria Via San Giorgio, owned by Daniela and her brother Piero, is a cheery family eatery that satisfies both fish-lovers and meat-lovers. Sample the splittable antipasti—small courses such as ceviche (seafood salad), scallops au gratin, squid sautéed with potatoes, or whatever else was caught that day in Viareggio; they also offer a meatier version. Dinner-size salads are bright and fresh, pasta is homemade, and Daniela’s desserts tempt (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, Via San Giorgio 26, tel. 0583-953-233).
Vecchia Trattoria Buralli, on quiet Piazza Sant’Agostino, is a good bet for traditional cooking and juicy steaks, with fine indoor and piazza seating (€7 pastas, €10 secondi, €12-30 fixed-price meals, Thu-Tue 12:00-14:45 & 19:00-22:30, closed Wed, Piazza Sant’Agostino 10, tel. 0583-950-611).
Trattoria da Leo packs in chatty locals for typical, cheap home-cooking in a hash-slingin’ Mel’s-diner atmosphere. This place is a high-energy winner...you know it’s going to be good as soon as you step in. Arrive early or reserve in advance (€6 pastas, €10 secondi, daily 12:00-14:30, Mon-Sat also 19:30-22:30, cash only, leave Piazza San Salvatore on Via Asili and take the first left to Via Tegrimi 1, tel. 0583-492-236).
Bella ’Mbriana Pizzeria focuses on doing one thing very well: turning out piping-hot, wood-fired pizzas to happy locals in a welcoming wood-paneled dining room. Order and pay at the counter, take a number, and they’ll call you when your pizza’s ready. Consider take-out to munch on the nearby walls (Wed-Mon 12:30-14:30 & 18:30-23:00, closed Tue, to the right as you face the Church of San Frediano, Via della Cavallerizza 29, tel. 0583-495-565).
Il Cuore Enogastronomia/Ristorante includes a delicatessen and restaurant. For a fancy picnic, drop in the deli for ready-to-eat lasagna, saucy meatballs, grilled and roasted vegetables, vegetable soufflés, Tuscan bean soup, fruit salads, and more, sold by weight and dished up in disposable trays to go. Ask them to heat your order (riscaldare), then picnic on nearby Piazza Napoleone. For curious traveling foodies on a budget who want to eat right there, they can assemble a €10 “degustation plate”—just point to what you want from among the array of tasty treats under the glass (Tue-Sun 9:30-19:30, closed Mon, Via del Battistero 2, tel. 0583-493-196, Cristina).
Il Cuore Bistrot, located across the way, is a trendy find for wine-tasting or a meal on a piazza. Try the €8 aperitivo (available 18:00-20:00), which includes a glass of wine and a plate of cheese, salumi, and snacks, or feast on fresh pastas and other high-quality dishes from their lunch and dinner menus (Wed-Sun 12:00-22:00 with limited menu 15:00-19:30, Tue 12:00-15:00, closed Mon, Via del Battistero, tel. 0583-493-196).
Pizzeria da Felice is a little mom-and-pop hole-in-the-wall serving cecina (garbanzo-bean crepes) and slices of freshly baked pizza to throngs of snackers. Grab an etto of cecina and a short glass of wine for €2.50 (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:30, closed Sun and 3 weeks in Aug, Via Buia 12, tel. 0583-494-986).
From Lucca by Train to: Florence (2/hour, 1.5 hours), Pisa (roughly 1-2/hour, 30 minutes, bus is better except on Sun), Livorno (about hourly, 1-1.25 hours, transfer at Pisa Centrale, €5.10), Milan (2/hour except Sun, 4-5 hours, transfer in Florence), Rome (1/hour except Sun, 3-4 hours, change in Florence).
From Lucca by Bus to Pisa: Direct buses from Lucca’s Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi drop you right at the Leaning Tower, making Pisa an easy day trip (Mon-Sat hourly, fewer on Sun, 30 minutes, also stops at Pisa’s airport, €3). Even with a car, I’d opt for this much faster and cheaper option. For more on Pisa, see those chapters.