This is my epic chapter. I am enamored with rugelach and kolachkes. They reflect my soul, my family, my Eastern European Jewish heritage.
Yet most of the rugelach and kolachkes that I make would be out of place at traditional Jewish delis or Polish bakeries. When I developed these cookies, I opened up the floodgates and let my pastry-chef creative juices run free. I made them with hot fudge and cocoa nibs, raspberries and rose sugar, blueberries and orange blossom water, pears and red wine. I crushed different kinds of toffees—brickle and honeycomb—and sprinkled them over fillings for added crunch. All of these cookies are distinctly different, but what they have in common is one foolproof, easy-to-use cream cheese dough. Pretty epic, right?
Let’s start with rugelach. Most recipes have you roll out dough into a disc and cut it into wedges like a pizza. I prefer to roll out a rectangle of dough about the same size as a half sheet pan. It allows me to maximize yield: I get more wedges out of a rectangle than a disc. I also cut the wedges differently. Instead of perfect triangles, I make triangles without the tip—trapezoids, technically. This gives the cookies a funkier shape. In some rugelach, like the Fig Segals, I fold the dough like a business letter for a unique look.
When cutting and shaping rugelach, it is important to avoid overhandling the dough. To cut the rugelach, I use a fluted dough cutter for a ribbon-cut effect, yielding pretty scalloped edges. A pizza cutter works well, too. Keep the blade of the roller clean as you go, wiping and drying it off often to avoid it sticking to the dough. Before rolling up the triangles, I use a small, offset spatula to move each triangle away from the remaining dough. That way, if any filling oozes out during the rolling process, it doesn’t get all over the other rugelach.
Kolachkes are similar in many ways. Like rugelach, they are formed with my epic cream cheese dough. Yet the shape is different. I cut out the cookies with a fluted square cutter (a straight-sided cutter also works), add a spoonful of filling, fold over the opposite corners of the square, and pinch the corners together. Sometimes a little bit of jam can help secure the seal. I like my kolachkes to be gluttonously filled, with preserves spilling out the ends—if the edges aren’t covered, the dough browns too much. Like rugelach, avoid overhandling the kolachkes while shaping.
All of these recipes are flexible. You can create rugelach or kolachkes with the other preserves in this book. You can even mix ingredients into the dough to give it a distinct flavor. And while I finish all of my rugelach and kolachkes with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, you don’t have to.
The best rugelach and kolachkes are a little off the cuff, a little whimsical, a little creative, and a little kooky. Like me.
CLASSIC CREAM CHEESE DOUGH
makes 2 (13 by 18-inch) sheets of dough
THIS IS A ROCK-SOLID cream cheese dough that you can use for all of the rugelach and kolachkes in this chapter. Cream cheese dough is a wonderful thing. It is easy to roll and easy to shape. But it’s also okay if the cookies don’t look perfect. I like it when the cookies crack in places so the filling can ooze out.
1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sea salt flakes
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add the cream cheese and mix on medium speed to combine, 10 to 15 seconds. Add the sugar and beat on medium speed until aerated, approximately 3 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
On medium speed, add the vanilla, mixing briefly until incorporated. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to bring the batter together.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salts.
Add the flour mixture all at once and mix on low speed until the dough just comes together but still looks shaggy, approximately 30 seconds. Do not overmix. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper, bring the dough completely together by hand.
Stretch two sheets of plastic wrap on a work surface. Divide the dough in half (each half will weigh around 14½ ounces) and place a half on each piece of plastic. Pat the dough into rectangles, wrap tightly, and refrigerate until chilled throughout, at least 2 hours or up to 1 week.
RASPBERRY ROSE RUGELACH
makes 48 rugelach
THERE IS SOMETHING SEXY about raspberries paired with rose petals. The raspberry framboise jam is slightly tart, the rose sugar is floral, and together, they make a naturally romantic combination. For this recipe, double the
jam recipe, which will give you a little extra to spread on toast. I make a very simple rose sugar by adding rose oil to granulated sugar and letting the sugar dry out overnight (see “
Infused Sugars,”). If you want to turn up the rose flavor, add a splash of rose water to the egg whites used to brush the rugelach. If rose isn’t your thing, that’s okay, too. Cane or cinnamon sugar also does the trick.
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. The dough should be just shy of ¼ inch thick. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top sheet of parchment paper. For each sheet of dough, spread ¾ cup of raspberry jam in a thin, even layer across the surface. Trim the edges. Using a dough cutter or a pizza cutter, divide the sheet in half lengthwise into two long strips. Working with one strip at a time and moving crosswise, cut out triangles with flat tips, with each base approximately 1½ inches wide and each tip approximately ¼ inch wide. Shoot for 12 triangles per strip.
Using an offset spatula, separate a triangle away from the rest of the dough. Starting from the base, roll the dough up like a crescent roll. Place tip-side down on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining triangles, spacing
them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white and sprinkle generously with the rose sugar.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 6 to 8 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes (do not wait too long or the preserves will stick to the parchment paper.) Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Rolled, unbaked rugelach can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
COCOA NIB HOT FUDGE RUGELACH
makes 48 rugelach
WHAT MAKES SENSE IN my brain does not always make sense in real life. When I dreamed up pairing hot fudge with cream cheese dough, I felt as if I were on the brink of something brilliant. So I put together a sheet pan filled with hot fudge rugelach. Halfway through the baking process, I peeked in the oven. Disaster. The hot fudge was oozing all over the place. But I thought, what the heck—I went ahead and finished baking them. I put them on the speed rack and walked away. I nearly forgot all about them. When I came back, the oozy hot fudge had cooled, forming a crisp tuile surrounding the rugelach. Disaster averted: I had an incredible pan of chocolate “cracklins.” Sometimes I catch new and well-meaning employees breaking off the cracklins to make these cookies more presentable. I stop them on the spot. These cracklins are the whole point.
In addition to hot fudge, the inside of the rugelach has a streusel made by grinding hazelnuts with chocolate and cocoa nibs. If you want to mix things up a bit, cashews or smoked almonds are fine alternatives to hazelnuts.
½ cup (2½ ounces) hazelnuts, toasted
½ cup (2½ ounces) dark milk chocolate discs (preferably 53% cacao)
2 tablespoons cocoa nibs
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
1¼ cups
Hot Fudge, at a warm room temperature
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Put the nuts and chocolate discs in a bowl and freeze until thoroughly chilled, approximately 20 minutes. In a food processor, grind the nuts and chocolate. Pulse in the cocoa nibs, sugars, flour, and salts until a coarse meal forms.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. The dough should be just shy of ¼ inch thick. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top sheet of parchment paper. For each sheet of dough, spread half of the hot fudge in a thin, even layer across the surface. Sprinkle approximately ½ cup of the streusel per sheet over the hot fudge. Trim the edges. Using a dough cutter or a pizza cutter, divide the sheet in half lengthwise into two long strips. Working with one strip at a time and moving crosswise, cut out triangles with flat tips, with each base approximately 1½ inches wide and each tip approximately ¼ inch wide. Shoot for 12 triangles per strip.
Using an offset spatula, separate a triangle away from the rest of the dough. Starting from the base, roll the dough up like a crescent roll. Place tip-side up on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining triangles, spacing them on the pans 2 inches apart (the hot fudge needs space to spread). Brush the tops with the egg white and sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup streusel.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 8 to 10 minutes, or until the hot fudge has oozed out and bubbled on the sides. Let cool completely on the sheet pan so the hot fudge solidifies around the rugelach. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Rolled, unbaked rugelach can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
STRAWBERRY RHUBARB RUGELACH WITH OATMEAL STREUSEL
makes 48 rugelach
WHEN SPRING ARRIVES (EVENTUALLY) in Chicago, I am first in line for rhubarb. I use rhubarb to make fruit consommés and sorbets. But it is nearly always at its best with strawberries—its soul mate, which come into season later. This recipe is a fruit crisp disguised as rugelach. I slather cream cheese dough with the strawberry rhubarb preserves and then dust it with streusel for crunch. The results are crisp, gooey, sweet, and tart, tasting purely of spring.
Wipe the rhubarb clean before dicing, especially if using field rhubarb, which I prefer. Field rhubarb has a grassier, earthier flavor than hothouse rhubarb. It is pinkish green (not red) in color. When working with strawberries, wash them and let them dry out on a towel-lined pan before cooking them. The quantity used in the recipe is 1 pound of hulled strawberries. Start with 18 ounces of strawberries to ensure you have 1 pound after you hull them. For the preserves, dice the rhubarb and strawberries into small cubes (approximately ¼ inch) so they cook down evenly and spread smoothly onto the cream cheese dough.
2 cups finely diced rhubarb (approximately 2 large stalks)
1 pound washed, hulled, and dried strawberries, finely diced
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, granulated sugar, and orange juice in a bowl and let macerate for at least 4 hours at room temperature or cover and refrigerate overnight.
In a high-sided, heavy pot, heat the fruit mixture over medium-high heat until the juices start to boil and foam. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent the bottom from scorching, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the rhubarb has broken down completely, approximately 30 minutes. You will have close to 2 cups. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 2 hours.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a
1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. The dough should be just shy of ¼ inch thick. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top sheet of parchment paper. For each sheet of dough, spread ¾ cup of strawberry rhubarb preserves in a thin, even layer across the surface. Sprinkle approximately ½ cup of streusel per sheet over the preserves. Trim the edges. Using a dough cutter or a pizza cutter, divide the sheet in half lengthwise into two long strips. Working with one strip at a time and moving crosswise, cut out triangles with flat tips, with each base approximately 1½ inches wide and each tip approximately ¼ inch wide. Shoot for 12 triangles per strip.
Using an offset spatula, separate a triangle away from the rest of the dough. Starting from the base, roll the dough up like a crescent roll. Place tip-side down on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining triangles, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white and sprinkle with the vanilla sugar. Sprinkle the tops generously with the remaining 1 cup streusel.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 8 to 10 minutes, or until the streusel is golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes (do not wait too long or the preserves will stick to the parchment paper). Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Rolled, unbaked rugelach can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
FIG SEGALS
makes 48 cookies
AS YOU MIGHT HAVE guessed, this is my grown-up take on Fig Newtons. I plump up figs with port wine, cook them down with honey, and puree it all into a paste. The cookies resemble classic rugelach, but with a catch: instead of rolling the cookies from wedges, I cut the dough into strips and then fold them like a business letter so they look square. For a variation, turn up the volume and make the cream cheese dough with 2 ounces of grated 70% cacao chocolate ground into the flour in a food processor before mixing the dough.
Make the filling the day you plan to shape the cookies. The filling firms up significantly when refrigerated. If you can’t get to it in the same day, leave the filling at room temperature. If the filling seems stiff, paddle it for a minute or two in a stand mixer, adding a tablespoon of water if needed to soften the paste.
1½ pounds dried Black Mission figs
3 cups port or red wine
1 cup honey
1 vanilla bean, seeds and pod
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup granulated sugar
Remove the stems from the figs and cut them in half. Combine all of the filling ingredients in a bowl and let the figs rehydrate at room temperature for at least 1 hour or preferably overnight.
In a 6-quart heavy saucepan, cook the figs and their hydrating liquid over medium heat, stirring every couple of minutes, until the liquid has become syrupy but is not completely reduced, 15 to 18 minutes depending on how long the figs have macerated beforehand. When you push the figs with a wooden spoon, they should be soft enough to break apart easily. Remove from the heat, cover with a lid, and let steam for 20 minutes.
Remove the vanilla pod. Puree the figs in a food processor with any liquid in the pot until a paste forms. Let the paste sit at room temperature until cooled.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. The dough should be just shy of ¼ inch thick. If the edges
become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top sheet of parchment paper. For each sheet of dough, spread a thin, even layer of fig paste across the surface using an offset spatula. If the dough becomes warm, it may tear when adding the fig paste. If it tears, chill the dough before proceeding. (You will use approximately 1½ cups of paste per sheet.) Trim the edges. Using a dough cutter or a pizza cutter, divide the sheet in half lengthwise into two long strips. Working with one strip at a time and moving crosswise, cut the strips into ribbons approximately 1¼ inches wide.
Using an offset spatula, separate a ribbon away from the rest of the dough. Starting from the base, tightly fold (do not roll) the dough up so it is more square than round. Place seam-side down on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining ribbons, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white and sprinkle with the sugar.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 6 to 8 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes (do not wait too long or the fig paste will stick to the parchment paper). Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Rolled, unbaked rugelach can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
CINNAMON BRICKLE RUGELACH
makes 44 to 48 rugelach
CLASSIC RUGELACH IS FILLED with either fruit preserves or nuts and cinnamon. This is my version of a nut-and-cinnamon rugelach. Instead of adding plain nuts, however, I make “brickle.” Butter brickle was one of my favorite ice cream toppings when I was a little girl, and I still hold a soft spot for the simple, crunchy toffee. Now I make my own butter brickle, which I chop up and sprinkle on top of caramel sauce. When shaping these rugelach, I cut and fold them looser than the other rugelach so they bake into exaggerated shapes. When they cool, the melted caramel on the sides hardens up and adds a nice crispy finish. It is a tough call, but these might be my most epic rugelach.
When buying nuts for the brickle, look for mixed nuts that do not include peanuts—and no bridge mix, please.
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1¾ cup (8 ounces) mixed roasted, salted nuts
Pinch of ground cinnamon
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with a Silpat and coat lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Alternatively, line the sheet pan with parchment paper and coat lightly with the spray.
In a 3-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the sugar until it looks like wet sand, then add the nuts and cinnamon. Continue to stir until the sugar melts and starts to coat the nuts in caramel, approximately 4 minutes. Turn the heat off, stir a couple of times, and pour onto the Silpat. Let the brickle harden at room temperature. Coarsely chop and then pulse in the food processor until it forms a coarse meal. You will have 3 cups, more than you need for this recipe. (Extra brickle can be saved for ice cream in a airtight jar for up to 1 month.)
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. The dough should be just shy of ¼ inch thick. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets
of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top sheet of parchment paper. For each sheet of dough, spread half of the caramel sauce in a thin, even layer across the surface. Sprinkle approximately ½ cup of the brickle per sheet. Trim the edges. Using a dough cutter or a pizza cutter, divide the sheet in half lengthwise into two long strips. Working with one strip at a time and moving crosswise, cut out triangles, with each base ranging from 1½ to 1¾ inches wide and each tip approximately ½ inch wide. Make 11 to 12 triangles per strip.
Using an offset spatula, separate a triangle away from the rest of the dough. Starting from the base, roll the dough like crescent roll but keep the shape slightly loose. Place tip-side up on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining triangles, spacing them on the pans 2 inches apart (the caramel needs space to spread).
Brush the tops with the egg white. In a bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon together. Dust the rugelach generously with the mixture, then sprinkle with 1 cup brickle.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 8 to 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown and the caramel has oozed out and bubbled on the sides. Let cool completely on the sheet pan so the caramel solidifies around the rugelach. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Rolled, unbaked rugelach can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
BLUEBERRY JAM KOLACHKES WITH ORANGE BLOSSOM ALMONDS
makes 56 cookies
BLUEBERRIES ARE CLASSIC MATCHES with lemon, but they are also lovely with orange. I exploit this less-common flavor pairing by making a blueberry jam with a splash of orange juice and orange blossom water. Although optional, I also like to cut fresh blueberries in half and place them cut-side up on the ends (
pictured here). An easy but dynamic way to prepare nuts for garnishing cookies is to coat them with confectioners’ sugar and a splash of liquid. I use that trick to finish these cookies, mixing together sliced almonds and confectioners’ sugar with orange blossom water to enhance the orange blossom water in the jam. (The almonds are also great with the
Apricot and Lemon Kolachkes.) I’ve also used the technique with success with pistachios and pepitas, though egg whites can take the place of orange blossom water, if you prefer.
To cut out the cookies, you will need a 2-inch square cookie cutter.
4 cups (1¼ pounds) fresh or frozen blueberries
⅓ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
2 teaspoons tapioca starch
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
3 cups untoasted sliced almonds
½ cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
Pinch of sea salt flakes
3 to 4 teaspoons orange blossom water
Combine the blueberries, sugar, orange juice, and orange blossom water in a bowl and let macerate for at least 4 hours at room temperature or cover and refrigerate overnight.
Set aside 2 tablespoons or so of the blueberry juice in a small bowl. In a high-sided, heavy pot, heat the fruit mixture over medium-high heat until the juices start to boil. Simmer briefly. Whisk the tapioca starch into the reserved blueberry juice. Stir it into the fruit mixture, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate until completely chilled, approximately 1 hour.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge of the parchment paper. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against
the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top layer of parchment paper. Using a 2-inch (or comparable) square cookie cutter, cut out the kolachkes. Reroll the scraps, chill for at least 20 minutes, and cut out more squares.
Using an offset spatula, separate a square away from the rest of the dough. Put a generous spoonful of blueberry jam diagonally across the center of the square, from point to point, keeping the other corners free. Fold the empty corners over the top so they overlap and pinch them closed. Place on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining squares, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white.
In a bowl, mix together the almonds, confectioners’ sugar, and sea salt. Add just enough orange blossom water to ensure that all of the almonds are damp but not soaking. Generously pile the almonds on top of the kolachkes.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, or until the nuts are golden brown. If the nuts begin to brown too much before the rest of the kolachkes are baked, lower the oven temperature. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Kolachkes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
KUMQUAT MARMALADE KOLACHKES WITH BLACKBERRIES AND BLACK PEPPER
makes 56 cookies
SMALL, THIN-SKINNED, AND SWEET-TART, kumquats are one of the rare citrus fruits that you can eat whole, pith and all (excluding the seeds), which makes them ideal for marmalade. If kumquats are hard to find, orange rinds or Meyer lemon rinds cut into thin strips are good alternatives. I complement the marmalade’s bright citrus flavor with tart blackberries lightly macerated with sugar. It’s a personal quirk, but I have always thought that the inside of a blackberry is gorgeous so I slice them in half and place them cut-side up inside the kolachkes. To finish the cookies, I sprinkle them with sugar mixed with a coarsely ground black pepper, which gives these cookies a spicy crunch.
To cook the marmalade, you will need to make a
parchment paper lid. To cut out the cookies, you will need a 2-inch square cookie cutter.
1 pound kumquats, halved
1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pinch of kosher salt
56 blackberries, halved lengthwise
Couple pinches of granulated sugar
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper
Cut the kumquats in half. Place in a pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Drain and rinse under cold water. Repeat this step three more times, rinsing with cold water in between blanching. (This process removes bitterness from the pith.)
Combine the kumquats, water, sugar, corn syrup, lemon juice, and salt in a heavy pot. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cover with a parchment paper lid. Simmer until the syrup is thick and the fruit starts to turn translucent, approximately 45 minutes. Remove the parchment paper lid. Cool the marmalade to room temperature. The seeds should be easy to see. Pick them out and discard. Puree the marmalade in a food processor. You will have a generous cup of marmalade.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle nearly the same dimensions as the parchment paper. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to
straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Any time the dough starts to stick, repeat the sandwiching and flipping step with the parchment paper. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Put the blackberries in a bowl with a couple pinches of granulated sugar and let macerate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top layer of parchment paper. Using a 2-inch (or comparable) square cookie cutter, cut out the kolachkes. Reroll the scraps, chill for at least 20 minutes, and cut out more squares.
Using an offset spatula, separate a square away from the rest of the dough. Put a spoonful of marmalade diagonally across the center of the square, from point to point, keeping the other corners free. For each kolachke, put 2 blackberry halves, cut-side up, on the marmalade. Fold the empty corners over the top so they overlap and pinch them closed. Place on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining squares, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white.
In a bowl, mix together the sugar and the pepper. Sprinkle over the tops of the kolachkes.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Kolachkes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
HONEY PEACH AND HONEYCOMB KOLACHKES
makes 56 cookies
HONEY AND PEACHES ARE a glorious combination. Crushed honeycomb—a type of toffee that gets it airy structure from the addition of baking soda—melts and caramelizes into the peach jam as the kolachkes bake, giving the cookies sweetness and texture. When peaches are in season, I like to double-stuff these cookies. I slice fresh peaches into thin little wedges and put a slice on the jam before closing up each kolachke. To kick things up even more, sprinkle
lavender sugar on top in place of cinnamon sugar.
Make a double batch of
Honey Peach Preserves to ensure you have enough to fill the kolachkes. To cut out the cookies, you will need a 2-inch square cookie cutter.
⅓ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon corn syrup
2 teaspoons mild honey (such as clover)
Pinch of kosher salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Spray a Silpat with nonstick cooking spray or line a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan with aluminum foil and coat with nonstick cooking spray.
In a heavy pot over medium heat, combine the granulated sugar, water, corn syrup, honey, and salt. Cook until the mixture forms a golden, very light caramel color, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the baking soda. It will foam and make the mixture turn a darker shade of caramel. Pour it onto the Silpat and let cool. Once set, it is very crumbly. Chop into tiny pieces.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle nearly the same dimensions as the parchment paper. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both
sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top layer of parchment paper. Using a 2-inch (or comparable) square cookie cutter, cut out the kolachkes. Reroll the scraps, chill for at least 20 minutes, and cut out more squares.
Using an offset spatula, separate a square away from the rest of the dough. Put a generous spoonful of peach preserves diagonally across the center of the square, from point to point, keeping the other corners free. Sprinkle a pinch or two of honeycomb on top. Fold the empty corners over the top so they overlap and pinch them closed. Place on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining squares, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white.
In a bowl, mix together the granulated sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle the kolachkes with the mixture.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Kolachkes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
APRICOT AND LEMON KOLACHKES
makes 56 cookies
APRICOTS COOKED TO THE point of submission become delicious
schmutz—the kind of thing you want to smear on everything from toast to cookies. Since I pair the
schmutz with a silky smooth
lemon curd, I like the apricots to have a little texture. So I cook them with the skins on. To fill these kolachkes, use an offset spatula to smear a dollop of lemon curd—my tried-and-true recipe—from corner to corner. You will have more lemon curd than you will need, but extra curd keeps for at least 1 week in the refrigerator, and it is guaranteed to enliven your breakfast toast. Once the curd is in place, dab the apricot preserves on top. As a topping, my vote is torn between a liberal sprinkle of
Oatmeal Streusel or the orange blossom almonds used in the
Blueberry Jam Kolachkes. You make the call.
To cut out the cookies, you will need a 2-inch square cookie cutter.
1 pound pitted and diced apricots, fresh or frozen (6 to 7 apricots)
½ cup granulated sugar
3 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
3 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature
1½ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
Combine the apricots and sugar in a bowl and let macerate for at least 4 hours at room temperature or cover and refrigerate overnight.
In a high-sided, heavy pot, heat the apricot mixture over medium-high heat until the juices start to boil. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, until the apricots break down and are soft, approximately 30 minutes. If the jam is too chunky for your taste, puree it in a food processor. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 1 hour.
In a heatproof bowl that fits over a pot for a double-boiler setup (see “
Using a Double Boiler,”), whisk the eggs and yolks to break them up. Whisk in the sugar, followed by the lemon juice. Put the bowl over (but not touching) barely simmering water in a pot. Cook, whisking often, until the curd is thick enough to coat the wires of the whisk, about 10 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat. Whisk in the butter. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh strainer and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 1 hour. You will have approximately 2 cups.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle nearly the same dimensions as the parchment paper. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper, periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Any time the dough starts to stick, repeat the sandwiching and flipping step with the parchment paper. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a couple of half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top layer of parchment. Using a 2-inch (or comparable) square cookie cutter, cut out the kolachkes. Reroll the scraps, chill for at least 20 minutes, and cut out more squares.
Using an offset spatula, separate a square away from the rest of the dough. Using an offset spatula, smear a dollop of lemon curd diagonally across the center of the square, from point to point, keeping the other corners free. Put a small spoonful of apricot preserves on top. Fold the empty corners over the top so they overlap and pinch them closed. Place on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining squares, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart.
Brush the tops with egg white and sprinkle liberally with the streusel. Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Kolachkes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
RED WINE AND GINGER PEAR BUTTER KOLACHKES
makes 56 cookies
THE FILLING FOR THESE kolachkes is a lovely pear butter. Cooking down pears with red wine gives the fruit this gorgeous pink hue. I sweeten the butter with wildflower honey; it is more herbaceous and floral than clover honey and naturally complements ripe, aromatic pears. Meanwhile, fresh ginger and ginger beer keep the pears from tasting too rich. This recipe makes 3 cups of pear butter, which is more than you need. I recommend folding the extra into vanilla ice cream, spreading it on toast, baking it inside a butter cake … the list goes on. If you happen to have some brown butter custard left over from the
Apple Confit Breakfast Pie Squares, it is excellent dabbed on top of the pear butter. To finish these kolachkes, I go for a nice dusting of cinnamon sugar, but cocoa nib sugar (see “
Infused Sugars,”) is great, too. For the pears, choose Comice, Anjou, Bartlett, or Red Bartlett pears—whichever are ripest—for making this butter.
To cut out the cookies, you will need a 2-inch square cookie cutter.
8 large or 12 small ripe pears
2 cups red wine (port, Zinfandel, or Lambrusco)
½ cup wildflower honey
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 (12-ounce) bottle ginger beer
1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Peel, quarter, and core the pears. Cut them into chunks and place in a heavy pot. Add the wine, honey, ginger, and ginger beer and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower to a simmer and cook over medium heat until the pears have turned the color of wine and have absorbed most of the liquid and the liquid is syrupy, 50 to 60 minutes. Be careful not to burn the syrup. Let the pears sit at room temperature to cool slightly, then puree in a food processor until smooth. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 1½ hours.
Put a sheet of parchment paper the same dimensions as a half sheet (13 by 18-inch) pan on the work surface and dust lightly with flour. Unwrap one dough half and place on top.
Using a rolling pin and a pastry roller, roll the dough half into a rectangle nearly the same dimensions as the parchment paper. If the edges become uneven, push a bench scraper against the sides to straighten them out. To keep the dough from sticking to the parchment paper,
periodically dust the top lightly with flour, cover with another piece of parchment paper, and, sandwiching the dough between both sheets of parchment paper, flip the dough and paper over. Peel off the top layer of parchment paper and continue to roll. Repeat with the second dough half. Stack both sheets of dough on top of each other and refrigerate until chilled, approximately 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a few half sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Invert the sheets of dough onto the work surface and peel off the top layer of parchment paper. Using a 2-inch (or comparable) square cookie cutter, cut out the kolachkes. Reroll the scraps, chill for at least 20 minutes, and cut out more squares.
Using an offset spatula, separate a square away from the rest of the dough. Put a generous spoonful of pear butter diagonally across the center of the square, from point to point, keeping the other corners free. Fold the empty corners over the top so they overlap and pinch them closed. Place on the prepared sheet pan and repeat with the remaining squares, spacing them on the pans 1 inch apart. Brush the tops with the egg white.
In a bowl, mix together the granulated sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle the kolachkes with the mixture.
Bake one pan at a time for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the sheet pan for 1 to 2 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining pans.
Kolachkes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
