American Breakfast Sausage

Makes 2 pounds


Active time: 1 hour, including 30 minutes to chill meat


Start to finish: 2 hours

VARIATIONS

Substitute 2 pounds boned chicken or turkey thigh meat, with skin attached, for pork and pork fat. Cook sausages to an internal temperature of 165°F.

Add 1 to 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes.

Add 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley.

Add 1 to 2 teaspoons dry mustard powder.

Substitute 1/4 cup pure maple syrup for water.

Substitute herbes de Provence for the sage and marjoram.

Consider this recipe and its variations a template for building your own breakfast sausage. This sausage is mildly seasoned and contains the basic ingredients that I believe comprise breakfast sausage.

Thin sheep sausage casings (optional)

11/2 pounds pork butt or boneless country ribs

1/2 pound pork fat

2 teaspoons dried sage

11/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1. If using sausage casings, prepare them as directed.

2. Cut pork and pork fat into 1-inch cubes. Place cubes in a mixing bowl, and toss with sage, salt, pepper, marjoram, and nutmeg. Transfer cubes to a sheet of plastic wrap on a plate and freeze for 30 minutes, or until very firm. While meat chills, heat oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until onion is translucent. Set aside.

3. Grind meat and fat through the coarse disk of a meat grinder, or in small batches in a food processor fitted with the steel blade, using the on-and-off pulse button. If using a food processor, do not process into a paste, but ingredients should be very finely chopped.

4. Combine ground meat, onion mixture, and 1/4 cup ice water in a mixing bowl, and knead mixture until well blended. Fry 1 tablespoon of mixture in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

5. Stuff mixture into casings as described, if using, and twist off into 4-inch links; prick air bubbles with a straight pin or skewer. If time permits, arrange links on a wire rack over a baking sheet and air-dry uncovered in the refrigerator for 1 day before cooking. Alternately, if keeping sausage in bulk, refrigerate mixture for at least 30 minutes to blend flavors.

6. Cook sausages as directed to an internal temperature of 160°F when pierced with an instant-read thermometer or as directed in a specific recipe.

Note: Sausages can be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen up to 2 months. Once cooked, they can be refrigerated up to 3 days.