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Homer

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77 miles south of Soldotna, 226 miles southwest of Anchorage.

At the southern end of the Sterling Highway lies the city of Homer, at the base of a narrow spit that juts 4 miles into beautiful Kachemak Bay. Glaciers and snowcapped mountains form a dramatic backdrop across the water.

Founded in the late 1800s as a gold-prospecting camp, this community was later used as coal-mining headquarters. Chunks of coal are still common along local beaches; they wash into the bay from nearby slopes where the coal seams are exposed. Today the town of Homer is an eclectic community with most of the tacky tourist paraphernalia relegated to the Spit (though do note the Spit has plenty else to recommend it, not the least of which is the 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains); the rest of the town is full of local merchants and artisans. The community is an interesting mix of fishermen, actors, artists, and writers. Much of the commercial fishing centers on halibut, and the popular Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby is often won by enormous fish weighing more than 300 pounds. The local architecture includes everything from dwellings that are little more than assemblages of driftwood to steel commercial buildings and magnificent homes on the hillside overlooking the surrounding bay, mountains, forests, and glaciers.

Getting Here and Around

The Sterling Highway ends in Homer, and the drive in is beautiful. Once there, you’ll see signs on your left for Pioneer Avenue, Homer’s commercial district. On the right is the historic town center, and if you keep to the road you’ll hit the spit. Homer also operates a commercial airport, with flights daily to and from Anchorage, Seldovia, and elsewhere. If you’re traveling on the Marine Highway system, ferries to Kodiak and beyond dock several times a week in summer.

Essentials

Medical Assistance

South Peninsula Hospital.
4300 Bartlett St. | 99603 | 907/235–8101, 866/235-0369 | www.sphosp.com.

Visitor Information

Homer Chamber of Commerce.
201 Sterling Hwy. | 907/235–7740 | www.homeralaska.org.

Exploring Homer

Visitor Information Center.
Start your visit with a stop at the Homer Chamber of Commerce’s Visitor Information Center, where racks are filled with brochures from local businesses and attractions. | 201 Sterling Hwy. | 99603 | 907/235–7740 | www.homeralaska.org | Memorial Day–Labor Day, weekdays 9–7, weekends 10–6; early Sept.–late May, weekdays 9–5.

Halibut Cove.
Directly across from the end of Homer Spit is Halibut Cove, a small artists’ community. Spend a relaxing afternoon or evening meandering along the boardwalk and visiting galleries. The cove is lovely, especially during salmon runs, when fish leap and splash in the clear water. Several lodges are on this side of the bay, on pristine coves away from summer crowds. The Danny J ferries people across from Homer Spit, with a stop at the rookery at Gull Island and two or three hours to walk around Halibut Cove, for $50 apiece. The ferry makes two trips daily: the first leaves Homer at noon and returns at 5 pm, and the second leaves at 5 pm and returns at 10 pm. Central Charters and the Saltry Restaurant handle all bookings. | 907/266-2424, 907/399-2683 | www.halibut-cove-alaska.com/ferry.htm.

Fodor’s Choice | Homer Spit.
Protruding into Kachemak Bay, Homer Spit provides a sandy focal point for visitors and locals. A paved path stretches most of the 4 miles and is great for biking or walking. A commercial-fishing-boat harbor at the end of the path has restaurants, hotels, charter-fishing businesses, sea-kayaking outfitters, art galleries, and on-the-beach camping spots. Fly a kite, walk the beaches, drop a line in the Fishing Hole, or just wander through the shops looking for something interesting; this is one of Alaska’s favorite summertime destinations.

Islands and Ocean Center.
Islands and Ocean Center provides a wonderful introduction to the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge covers some 3.5 million acres spread across some 2,500 Alaskan islands, from Prince of Wales Island in the south to Barrow in the north. Opened in 2003, this 37,000-square-foot facility with towering windows facing Kachemak Bay is a must-see for anyone interested in wild places—and it’s free! A film takes visitors along on a voyage of the Fish and Wildlife Service’s research ship, the MV Tiglax. Interactive exhibits detail the birds and marine mammals of the refuge (the largest seabird refuge in America), and one room even re-creates the noisy sounds and pungent smells of a bird rookery. In summer, guided bird-watching treks and beach walks are offered. | 95 Sterling Hwy. | 99603 | 907/235–6961 | www.islandsandocean.org | Free | Memorial Day–Labor Day, daily 9–6; Labor Day–Sept. 30, Tues.–Sun. 10–5; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sat. noon–5; May–Memorial Day, daily 10–5.

Kachemak Bay.
Kachemak Bay abounds with wildlife, including a large population of puffins and eagles. Tour operators take you past bird rookeries or across the bay to gravel beaches for clam digging. Most fishing charters include an opportunity to view whales, seals, porpoises, and birds close up. At the end of the day, walk along the docks on Homer Spit and watch commercial fishing boats and charter boats unload their catch.

Kachemak Bay State Park.
Across Kachemak Bay from Homer Spit lies 400,000-acre Kachemak Bay State Park, one of the largest coastal parks in America. The park encompasses a line of snowcapped mountains and several large glaciers; the prominent one visible from the spit is called Grewingk Glacier. One of the most popular trails leads 2 miles, ending at the lake in front of Grewingk Glacier. Several state park cabins can be rented for $50–$65 a night, and a number of luxurious private lodges occupy remote coves. | 907/235–7024 | www.alaskastateparks.org.

Mako’s Water Taxi. Park access is primarily by water taxi from the spit; contact Mako’s Water Taxi | 907/235–9055 | www.makoswatertaxi.com.

Pratt Museum.
The Pratt Museum is an art gallery and natural history museum rolled into one. In addition to a monthly showcase of an Alaskan artist, it has a saltwater aquarium, an exhibit on the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill, botanical gardens, nature trails, a gift shop, and pioneer, Russian, and Alaska Native displays. You can spy on wildlife with robotic video cameras set up on a seabird rookery and at the McNeil River Bear Sanctuary. A refurbished homestead cabin and outdoor summer exhibits are along the trail out back. | Bartlett St. off Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8635 | www.prattmuseum.org | $8 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 10–6; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sun. noon–5 | Closed January.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Boating and Fishing

Homer is a major commercial fishing port (especially for halibut) and a popular destination for sport anglers in search of giant halibut or feisty king and silver salmon.

Fishing Hole.
Near the end of the Spit, Homer’s famous Fishing Hole is a small bight stocked with king and silver salmon smolt (baby fish) by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. The salmon then head out to sea, returning several years later to the Fishing Hole, where they are easy targets for wall-to-wall bank-side anglers throughout summer. The Fishing Hole isn’t anything like casting for salmon along a remote stream, but your chances are good and you don’t need to drop $800 for a flight into the wilderness. Fishing licenses and rental poles are available from fishing-supply stores on the Spit.

Bear Watch

Emerald Air Service.
Homer is a favorite departure point for viewing Alaska’s famous brown bears in Katmai National Park. Emerald Air Service is one of several companies offering all-day and custom photography trips starting around $650 per person. | 907/235–4160, 877/235–9600 | www.emeraldairservice.com.

Hallo Bay Wilderness.
Hallo Bay Wilderness offers guided close-range viewing without the crowds. Day trips are offered, but it’s the two- to seven-day stays at this comfortable coastal location that provide the ultimate in world-class bear- and wildlife-viewing. | 907/235–2237, 888/535–2237 | www.hallobay.com.

Quite a few companies offer charter fishing in summer, from about $250 to $350 per person per day, including bait and tackle. The pricing is usually based on how many different types of fish you’re fishing for.

Central Charters & Tours.
Central Charters & Tours can arrange fishing trips in outer Kachemak Bay and Lower Cook Inlet—areas known for excellent halibut fishing. Boat sizes vary considerably; some have a six-person limit, whereas others can take up to 16 passengers. They can also arrange non-fishing tours. | 4241 Homer Spit Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–7847 | www.centralcharter.com.

Homer Ocean Charters.
Homer Ocean Charters on the Spit sets up fishing and sightseeing trips, as well as sea kayaking and water-taxi services and remote-cabin rentals. Some of its most popular cruises go to the famous Otter Cove Resort. | 800/426–6212 | www.homerocean.com.

Inlet Charters.
Also try Inlet Charters for fishing charters, water-taxi services, sea-kayaking, and wildlife cruises. | 800/770–6216 | www.halibutcharters.com.

Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby.
Anyone heading out on a halibut charter is advised to buy a $10 ticket for the Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby; first prize for the largest halibut is more than $40,000. | 907/235–7740 | www.homerhalibutderby.com.

Sea Kayaking

Across the Bay Tent & Breakfast.
For something more unusual, book an overnight trip to Kasitsna Bay through the beautiful Across the Bay Tent & Breakfast. Grounds are gorgeous, facilities are basic, and guests can take kayak tours, rent a mountain bike, or just hang out on the shore and participate in workshops on topics like fish-skin basketry, wildlife photography, and permaculture design. | 907/235–3633, 907/345–2571 Sept.–May | www.tentandbreakfastalaska.com.

True North Kayak Adventures.
Several local companies offer guided sea-kayaking trips to protected coves within Kachemak Bay State Park and nearby islands. True North Kayak Adventures has a range of such adventures, including a six-hour paddle to Elephant Rock for $130 and an all-day boat and kayak trip to Yukon Island for $150 (both trips include round-trip water taxi to the island base camp, guide, all kayak equipment, and bakery lunch). | 907/235–0708 | www.truenorthkayak.com.

Where to Eat in Homer

Café Cups.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | It’s hard to miss this place as you drive down Pioneer Avenue—look for the huge namesake cups on the building’s facade. A longtime Homer favorite, this café serves dinners that make the most of the locally abundant seafood, complemented by a terrific wine list. The menu includes hand-cut steaks, a “twisted fettuccine” that blends seafood, raspberries, and chipotle in an Alfredo cream sauce. Be sure to make a reservation, as this place gets quite busy during the summer months. TIP Locals know to ignore the menu and just ask to hear the day’s specials. Vegetarian options are also offered, and singles mix at the hand-carved wine bar. | Average main: $25 | 162 W. Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8330 | www.cafecups.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Captain Pattie’s Seafood Restaurant.
$$ | SEAFOOD | A favorite with hard-to-please locals, Captain Pattie’s offers a wide array of fresh local seafood, along with beachfront views of Kachemak Bay. The appetizer menu alone is worth the wait, which can be considerable during the summer rush. The clam chowder is excellent, and the staff is friendly and efficient. There’s a good wine selection, and local beer on tap. If you get lucky on your fishing excursion, the restaurant will cook your catch to your liking. Try the great desserts, too. | Average main: $20 | 4241 Homer Spit Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–5135 | Closed Oct.–Mar.

Fat Olives Restaurant.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Pumpkin-color walls, light streaming through tall front windows, and a playful collection of Italian posters add to the appeal of this fine Tuscany-inspired bistro. The menu encompasses enticing appetizers, salads, sandwiches, calzones, and pizzas throughout the day, along with oven-roasted chicken, fresh seafood, pork loin, and other fare in the evening. If you’re in a hurry, just get a giant slice of the thin-crust cheese pizza to go for $5. You can order meals at the bar, where there is a great wine selection, and there’s always something decadent for dessert. | Average main: $15 | 276 Olson La. | 99603 | 907/235–8488.

Fresh Sourdough Express Bakery & Café.
$$ | CAFÉ | This place was the first certified green restaurant in Alaska, and proud of it. It features regional, organic ingredients, baked goods made with hand-ground grain, and fresh seafood in season. You can get box lunches for your all-day fishing or sightseeing trips—even order them online for next-day pickup. There’s a small gift shop and a play area outside for kids. | Average main: $15 | 1316 Ocean Dr. | 99603 | 907/235–7571 | www.freshsourdoughexpress.com | Closed Nov.–Mar.

Fritz Creek General Store.
$ | ECLECTIC | Directly across the road from the Homestead Restaurant is this old-fashioned country store, gas station, liquor store, post office, video-rental shop, and deli. The latter is the primary reason for stopping at Fritz’s. The food is amazingly good, from the hot and fattening turkey sandwiches to incredible freshly baked breads and pastries, pizza by the slice, veggie burritos, tamales, and ribs to go. Pull up a chair at a table crafted from an old cable spool and join the back-to-the-land crowd as they drink espresso, talk Alaskan politics, and pet the cats. | Average main: $6 | 55770 E. End Rd.(Mile 8.2) | 99603 | 907/235–6753.

Fodor’s Choice | Homestead Restaurant.
$$$ | EUROPEAN | This former log roadhouse 8 miles from town is a favorite of locals who appreciate artfully presented food served amid contemporary art. The Homestead specializes in seasonal fish and shellfish prepared with garlic, citrus fruits, or spicy ethnic sauces, as well as steak, rack of lamb, and prime rib. Epic views of the bay, mountains, and hanging glaciers are yours for the looking. Homestead has an extensive wine list and locally brewed beer on tap. | Average main: $20 | Mile 8.2, E. End Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–8723 | www.homesteadrestaurant.net | Reservations essential | Dinner seating begins at 5pm | Closed Nov.–Mar. 8.

Fodor’s Choice | Saltry Restaurant.
$$ | SEAFOOD | On a hill overlooking Halibut Cove, this is a wonderful place to soak up a summer afternoon. Local seafood is the main attraction, prepared as everything from curries and pastas to sushi. They also serve fresh-baked bread, and their salads are made of freshly harvested greens from their gardens. The restaurant is small, and although the tables aren’t exactly crowded together, it’s definitely intimate. When weather permits, get a table on the deck. Dinner seatings are at 6 and 7:30; before or after dinner you can stroll around the boardwalks at Halibut Cove and visit the art galleries or just relax on the dock. Sea otters often play just offshore. Reservations are essential for the ferry ($30 round-trip), which leaves Homer Spit at 5 pm. A noon ferry ($50) will take you to the Saltry for lunch (¢–$), stopping along the way for wildlife-viewing. | Average main: $25 | 9 W. Ismilof Rd. | 99603 | 907/399–2683 | www.thesaltry.com | Reservations essential | Closed Labor Day–Memorial Day.

Two Sisters Bakery.
$ | CAFÉ | This very popular café is a short walk from both Bishops Beach and the Islands and Ocean Center. In addition to fresh breads and pastries, Two Sisters specializes in deliciously healthful lunches, such as vegetarian focaccia sandwiches, homemade soups, quiche, and salads. Sit on the wraparound porch on a summer afternoon, or take your espresso and scone down to the beach to watch the waves roll in. TIP Upstairs are three comfortable guest rooms ($), all with private baths. Your latte and Danish pastry breakfast is served in the café. | Average main: $5 | 233 E. Bunnell Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–2280 | www.twosistersbakery.net.

Where to Stay in Homer

Alaskan Suites.
$$$$ | HOTEL | These modern log cabins offer million-dollar views from a hilltop on the west side of Homer. Each contains two queen beds and a kitchenette, and there’s a gas barbecue grill on the deck. Every cabin is equipped with a 42-inch flat-screen plasma TV with DVD, satellite connections, and surround sound. Guests can soak in a large hot tub with Kachemak Bay, mountains, glaciers, and three volcanoes as the backdrop. Pros: crow’s-nest views; highway location with no highway noise. Cons: not within walking distance of anything. TripAdvisor: “beautiful cabins,” “fantastic views,” “most beautiful place to stay.” | Rooms from: $265 | 3255 Sterling Hwy. | 99603 | 907/235–1972, 888/239–1972 | www.alaskansuites.com | 5 cabins.

Driftwood Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | The Driftwood seeks to accommodate all travelers, with an RV park, two deluxe lodges, a cottage, and a historic inn. The inn has “ship’s quarters” with cedar walls and a pull-down bed, and “European rooms” with queen-size beds, dining-room table, microwave, refrigerator, full private bath, and private outside entrance. Downstairs is a comfortable sitting room with fireplace, TV, books and videos. A small eating area has self-service coffee, tea, pastries, and cereal. The bluff-front lodges, which sleep up to 12 ($950), have spacious rooms overlooking Kachemak Bay, with private bathrooms and king-size beds; the Cottage ($175–$245), which sleeps up to eight and overlooks the bay, consists of two bedrooms, a loft, and a full and half bath. You have full access to the inn’s facilities if you stay at the on-site campground and full-hookup RV park ($40–$45). Pros: accommodation for every budget. Cons: the ship’s quarters are tight. TripAdvisor: “unique,” “beautiful,” “awesome cottage.” | Rooms from: $95 | 135 W. Bunnell Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8019, 800/478–8019 | www.thedriftwoodinn.com | 22 rooms, 14 with bath; 1 cottage.

Land’s End Resort and Lodges.
$$ | HOTEL | This sprawling complex at the end of Homer Spit has wide-open views of the bay. Most of the rooms face the bay; some have nautical decor, and others are more floral. Some are perfect for a couple, and some can sleep six comfortably. If you’re traveling with a large group, the condos can be economical, especially because they include kitchens and a private beach. The Chart Room Restaurant ($$$$) specializes in seafood, including salmon, halibut, scallops, and oysters; burgers and steak are also served. lCall ahead to reserve a window table with views of Kachemak Bay and the Kenai Mountains. In winter chefs craft a special once-a-month “Uncorked” theme dinner with paired wines for $70 per person. Pros: the Spit-end location puts you 5 miles out into the bay. Cons: you might be disappointed if you get a room without a view. TripAdvisor: “great location,” “nice place to crash and enjoy,” “gorgeous views.” | Rooms from: $160 | 4786 Homer Spit Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–0400, 800/478–0400 | www.lands-end-resort.com | 108 rooms, 24 2-room suites, 34 lodges.

Old Town Bed & Breakfast.
$ | B&B/INN | Bright and cozy, the Old Town B&B is housed in the oldest commercial building in Homer. It’s in an excellent location, and not just because it’s in the Old Town—it’s also above the Bunnell Street Art Gallery and a cheese shop and deli. The stairs up have shifted with time and now have a slight lean, giving visitors the sense that they’ve had far too much to drink. In contrast though, the rooms are elegantly appointed with period furnishings and fixtures, and the second-story setting provides sweeping views of the bay and mountains. The art gallery hosts occasional evening music, poetry, or arts programs, and a gourmet breakfast, included in the price, is served in the parlor upstairs. Pros: warm and inviting, breakfast is divine. Cons: some rooms have shared baths. TripAdvisor: “historic and memorable,” “cute,” “completely charming accommodations.” | Rooms from: $110 | 106 W. Bunnell St., in Old Inlet Trading Post | 99603 | 907/235–7558 | www.oldtownbedandbreakfast.com | 3 rooms, 1 with bath | Breakfast.

Tutka Bay Wilderness Lodge.
$$$$ | RESORT | On a small cove 9 miles by boat (the trip is included in the price) from Homer Spit, this luxurious small resort is adjacent to Kachemak Bay State Park. The deluxe modern cabins have private baths and comfortable beds. Other amenities include a cozy main lodge, three hearty meals a day, beachfront open-air hot tub, yoga classes, complimentary massage, wine tasting, and a variety of daily adventure activities. Hikers can head into the park from the lodge for day trips, watch eagles and otters just offshore, or pay extra for charter fishing trips and other activities. Pros: location, location, location. Cons: because of its location, it’s a bit pricey. TripAdvisor: “delightful staff,” “beautiful setting,” “perfect in every way.” | Rooms from: $885 | 907/235–3905, 800/606–3909 | www.tutkabaylodge.com | 4 cabins, 2 suites | All meals.

Nightlife in Homer

Alice’s Champagne Palace.
Dance to lively bands on weekends at Alice’s Champagne Palace. The bar attracts nationally known singer-songwriters on a regular basis. | 195 E. Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–6909.

Pier One Theater.
The members of Pier One Theater perform plays on weekends throughout the summer. Find them in the old barnlike building on the Spit. | 907/235–7333 | www.pieronetheatre.org.

Salty Dawg Saloon.
The Spit’s infamous Salty Dawg Saloon is a tumbledown lighthouse of sorts, sure to be frequented by a carousing fisherman or two, along with half the tourists in town. | 4380 Homer Spit Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–6718 | www.saltydogsaloon.com.

Shopping in Homer

Art and Gifts

A variety of art by the town’s residents can be found in the galleries on and around Pioneer Avenue.

Bunnell Street Gallery.
The Bunnell Street Gallery showcases and sells innovative contemporary art, all of it produced in Alaska. The gallery, which occupies the first floor of a historic trading post, also hosts workshops, lectures, musical performances, and other community events. | 106 W. Bunnell St., on corner of Main St. | 99603 | 907/235–2662 | www.bunnellstreetgallery.org.

Pratt Museum.
The gift shop at the Pratt Museum stocks natural-history books, locally crafted or inspired jewelry, note cards, and gifts for children. | 3779 Bartlett St., off Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8635 | www.prattmuseum.org.

Ptarmigan Arts.
Ptarmigan Arts is a cooperative gallery with photographs, paintings, pottery, jewelry, woodworking, and other pieces by local artisans. | 471 E. Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–5345 | www.ptarmiganarts.com.

Clothing

Homer’s Jeans.
Homer’s Jeans offers name-brand outdoor wear in addition to more utilitarian gear. Buy your cute shoes or your hiking boots here. | 564 E. Pioneer Ave., Suite 1 | 99603 | 907/235–6234 | www.homersjeans.com.

Nomar.
Nomar creates Polarfleece garments and other rugged Alaskan outerwear, plus duffels, rain gear, and children’s clothing. The company manufactures equipment and clothing for commercial fishermen. | 104 E. Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8363, 800/478–8364 | www.nomaralaska.com.

Food

Alaska Wild Berry Products.
Alaska Wild Berry Products sells chocolate-covered candies, jams, jellies, sauces, and syrups made from wild berries handpicked on the Kenai Peninsula, as well as Alaska-theme gifts and clothing. Drop by for free samples of the chocolates. | 528 E. Pioneer Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–8858 | www.alaskawildberryproducts.com.

Coal Point Trading Company.
Homer is famous for its halibut, salmon, and Kachemak Bay oysters. For fresh fish, head to Coal Point Trading Company. Coal Point can also package and ship fish that you catch. | 4306 Homer Spit Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–3877, 800/325–3877 | www.welovefish.com.

Fritz Creek Store.
Fritz Creek Store sells fresh, homemade food in an old log building. | Mile 8.2, E. End Rd. | 99603 | 907/235–6753.

Two Sisters Bakery.
Enjoy fresh-baked bread as well as coffee, muffins, soup, and pizza at Two Sisters Bakery. | 233 E. Bunnell Ave. | 99603 | 907/235–2280.

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