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Kenai Peninsula

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The Kenai Peninsula, thrusting into the Gulf of Alaska south of Anchorage, is South Central’s playground, offering salmon and halibut fishing, spectacular scenery, and wildlife viewing. Commercial fishing is important to the area’s economy; five species of Pacific salmon run up the aqua-color Kenai River every summer. Campgrounds and trailheads for backwoods hiking are strung along the roads. Along the way you can explore three major federal holdings on the peninsula—the western end of the sprawling Chugach National Forest, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, and Kenai Fjords National Park.

Kenai Peninsula

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Hope

39 miles west of Portage, 87 miles south of Anchorage.

The little gold-mining community of Hope sits just across Turnagain Arm from Anchorage. To visit, however, you must drive the 87 miles all the way around the arm. Your reward is a quiet little community that is accessible to but not overrun by tourists. Hope was founded by miners in 1896, and the old log cabins and weathered frame buildings in the town center are favorite photography subjects. You’ll find lots of gold-panning, fishing, and hiking opportunities, and the northern trailhead for the 38-mile-long Resurrection Pass Trail is nearby. Contact the U.S. Forest Service for information on campgrounds, cabin rentals, and hikes in the area.

Where to Eat in Hope

Tito’s Discovery Cafe.
$$ | AMERICAN | When the original Tito’s restaurant burned down, uninsured, in 1999, the owner was faced with financial ruin. But this tiny community got together and put Tito back on his feet and rebuilt the restaurant. Tito has since passed on, but his diner still serves basic American roadhouse food, along with seafood pasta, the ubiquitous halibut, and fresh-baked pies. We highly recommend the reindeer sausage sub. | Average main: $15 | Mile 16.5, Hope Hwy. | 99605 | 907/782–3274 | Open May 2–Sept., Thurs.–Mon. 7–9; Tue. and Wed. 7–3.

Where to Stay in Hope

Bowman’s Bear Creek Lodge.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Of the five cabins, four are around a pond and one is down by the creek. Each has a woodstove and an electric heater. Interior walls are chinked logs, beds have colorful quilts, and the lighting fixtures are modeled after gold rush–era styles. The cabins vary in size, but the largest sleeps up to six. A central bathhouse has hot showers and toilets. The excellent dinner house ($$$) offers fine dining, with nightly specials, local seafood, and smoked-salmon chowder (the house specialty) every day. The food is reason enough to make the 16-mile side trip to Hope from the Seward Highway. Bowman’s runs guided fishing and rafting trips: all-inclusive packages with rooms, meals, and guided excursions to Whittier, Seward, or Cooper Landing. Pros: great restaurant, dinners included in price; nightly campfire around the pond. Cons: shared bath. TripAdvisor: “incredible host,” “charming real Alaska,” “excellent restaurant.” | Rooms from: $180 | Mile 15.9, Hope Hwy. | 907/782–3141 | www.bowmansbearcreeklodge.com | 5 cabins with shared bath | Dinner nightly 4–10.

Mountain Biking the Kenai Peninsula

The Kenai Peninsula offers outstanding opportunities for mountain bikers seeking thigh-busting challenges amid extraordinary scenery. Crescent Creek Trail (at Mile 44.9 of Sterling Highway; drive 3 miles to the trailhead at end of gravel road); Devil’s Pass (at Mile 39.5 of Seward Highway); Johnson Pass (at Miles 32.6 and 63.7 of Seward Highway); and the Resurrection trail systems offer miles of riding for a wide range of expertise. Cyclists here are subject to highly fickle mountain weather patterns. But remember that you’re never really alone in wild Alaska: be sure to bring along bear spray and bug dope (repellent).

Department of Natural Resources.
For maps and descriptions of trails, visit the state Department of Natural Resources website. | www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/aktrails/ats/ken-ats.htm.

Seaview Cafe & Bar.
$ | RENTAL | True to its name, this rustic little establishment in the original Hope town site offers great views of the arm and the Chugach. Located where Resurrection Creek flows into Turnagain Arm, it has a café (¢–$) with outdoor seating, a bar, a campground ($6 per tent per night) and RV park, and two cabins to rent. There’s live music on weekends. Pros: charming historic location. Cons: cabins are rustic; food is bar food. | Rooms from: $60 | Main St., Box 110 | 99605 | 907/782–3300 | www.seaviewcafealaska.com | 50 tent sites, 16 RV sites with hookups ($18 with electric and $12 without), 2 cabins | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May.

Shopping in Hope

Sherritt Fine Art Gallery.
Sherritt Fine Art Gallery This cozy gallery space exhibits Scott Sheritt’s Alaska-influenced paintings, as well as those of other artists. | 2nd St. | 99605 | 907/782–3436 | www.scottsherritt.com.

Seward

74 miles south of Hope, 127 miles south of Anchorage.

It seems hard to believe that such beauty exists as in Seward. Surrounded on all sides by Kenai Fjords National Park, Chugach National Forest, and Resurrection Bay, Seward offers all the quaint realities of a small railroad town with the bonus of jaw-dropping scenery. This little town of fewer than 3,000 citizens was founded in 1903, when survey crews arrived at the ice-free port and began planning a railroad to the Interior. Since its inception, Seward has relied heavily on tourism and commercial fishing. It is also the launching point for excursions into Kenai Fjords National Park, where it is quite common to see marine life and calving glaciers.

Getting Here and Around

As a cruise-ship port, Seward has several routes in and out. Arrive by boat via the Alaska Marine Highway or, from Anchorage, take a luxury Ultradome railcar, or drive the 127 miles from Anchorage. Although there’s a small airport, only private planes use it. It’s possible to walk around town or from the harbor to downtown, but there’s also trolley service in summer.

Essentials

Medical Assistance
Providence Seward Medical Center.
417 1st Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–5205.

Visitor and Tour Information
Seward Visitors Bureau.
Mile 2, Seward Hwy. | 907/224–8051 | www.sewardak.org.

Exploring Seward

Fodor’s Choice | Alaska SeaLife Center.
Spend an afternoon at the Alaska SeaLife Center, with massive cold-water tanks and outdoor viewing decks as well as interactive displays of cold-water fish, seabirds, and marine mammals, including harbor seals and a 2,000-pound sea lion. A research center as well as visitor center, it also rehabilitates injured marine wildlife and provides educational experiences for the general public. Appropriately, the center was partially funded with reparations money from the Exxon Valdez oil spill. Films, hands-on activities, a gift shop, and behind-the-scenes tours ($12 and up) complete the offerings. | 301 Railway Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–6300, 888/378–2525 | www.alaskasealife.org | $20 | Mid-May–mid-Sept., Mon.–Thurs. 9–6:30, Fri.–Sun. 8–6:30; mid-Sept.–mid-May, daily 10–5.

Exit Glacier.
A short walk from the parking lot along a paved path will bring you face to face with Exit Glacier, just outside Seward. Look for the marked turnoff at Mile 3.7 as you enter town or ask locals for directions. There’s a small walk-in campground here, a ranger station, and access to the glacier. Exit Glacier is the most accessible part of the Harding Icefield. This mass of ice caps the Kenai Mountains, covering more than 1,100 square miles, and it oozes more than 40 glaciers from its edges and down the mountainsides. Reach it from Mile 3.7. The hike to the ice field from the parking lot is a 9-mile round-trip that gains 3,000 feet in elevation, so it’s not for the timid or out of shape. But if you’re feeling up to the task, the hike and views are breathtaking. Local wildlife includes mountain goats and bears both black and brown, so keep a sharp eye out for them. Once you reach the ice, don’t travel across it unless you have the gear and experience with glacier travel. Glacier ice is notoriously deceptive—the surface can look solid and unbroken, while underneath a thin crust of snow crevasses lie in wait for the unwary.

Good Alaskan Reads

Travelers at Fodors.com weigh in on the best reads to inspire you before your trip to Alaska and to introduce you to a bit of the history and culture of the state:

“I enjoyed Peter Jenkins’ Looking For Alaska. He spent time in several towns. One interesting part was about people who live miles from a main road so a trip to town might be a 60-mile snowmobile trip. The Pratt Museum in Homer has a short video about homesteading in the 50s.” —dfrostnh

“I enjoyed the novel Alaska by James Michener.” —Connie

“Coming into the Country by John Mcphee is my favorite. Last Light Breaking: Living Among Alaska’s Inupiat Eskimos by Nick Jans—he lived in a small village (Ambler, I think) teaching at a native school and exploring in his spare time, and writes beautifully. He also writes a popular monthly column for Alaska Magazine.” —Bill_H

“My choice would also be Coming into the Country—pushing 30 years old but still as evocative. And now for something completely different, have a go at Michael Chabon’s amazing The Yiddish Policemen’s Union, a mystery set in an alternate-history Southeast Alaska populated by Jews following the collapse of Israel in the War of Independence. Fabulous read.” —Gardyloo

“Good Time Girls, by Lael Morgan—the true account of the ‘ladies of the night’ who migrated to the Klondike (Dawson City) and on to Fairbanks. Lots of photos and interesting stories. If you like mysteries, anything by Sitka resident John Straley, Alaska’s ‘Novelist Laureate’ for 2007. The Last Run: the True Story of Rescue and Redemption on Alaska’s Seas, by Todd Lewan, is a gripping and very readable account of a rescue by the Coast Guard. You’ll learn a lot about Southeast Alaska, the life of a fisherman, and helicopters. Amazing.” —enzian

“Drop City by T.C. Boyle is on the list of 1,001 books you must read before you die. It’s about the clash/interaction of a hippie community and the Alaskan residents. Interesting reading and provided interesting color on life in the interior.” —keymom

Seward Community Library.
Seward, like Valdez, was badly damaged by the 1964 earthquake. A movie illustrating the upheaval is shown from Memorial Day until Labor Day, daily at 2 pm in the Seward Community Library. Russian icons and paintings by prominent Alaskan artists are on exhibit. | 238 5th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–4082 | www.cityofseward.net/library | Movie $3 | Mon.–Thurs. 10–8, Fri. and Sat. 10–6, Sun. 1–6.

Seward Museum.
The Seward Museum displays photographs of the quake’s damage, model rooms and artifacts from the early pioneers, and historical and current information on the Seward area. | 336 3rd Ave., at Jefferson St. | 99664 | 907/224–3902 | Free, donation suggested | Mid-May–Labor Day, Wed.–Sun., 1–5pm.

Iditarod Trail.
The first mile of the historic original Iditarod Trail runs along the beach and makes for a nice, easy stroll. There is also a great walking tour designed by the city—maps are available at the visitor bureau, the converted railcar at the corner of 3rd Avenue and Jefferson Street, or the Seward Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center at Mile 2 on the Seward Highway.

Nash Road.
For a different view of the town, drive out Nash Road, around Resurrection Bay, and look down at Seward, nestled at the base of the surrounding mountains like a young bird in its nest.

Lowell Point.
If you drive south from the SeaLife Center for about 10 minutes, you’ll reach Lowell Point, a wooded stretch of land along the bay with great access to camping, beach walking, hiking, and kayaking; the spot is great for a day trip.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Adventure and Wildlife Viewing

Exit Glacier Guides.
Exit Glacier Guides offers guided tours to Exit Glacier—and not just to the moraine, where most tourists stop. The experienced guides lead travelers onto the glacier. It also offers guided hikes to viewpoints and the Harding Icefield. For those wanting to visit the glacier independently, Exit Glacier Guides runs an hourly shuttle from downtown to the glacier for $10 round-trip. | Small-boat harbor | 99664 | 907/224–5569, 907/491–0552 [Sept.–May] | www.exitglacierguides.com.

Boating

The Fish House.
Operating out of Seward since 1974, this booking agency represents dozens of Resurrection Bay and Kenai Peninsula fishing charters, specializing in silver salmon and halibut, and can hook you up for half-day or full-day charters (full-day only for halibut fishing). | Small-boat harbor | 99664 | 907/224–3674, 800/257–7760 | www.thefishhouse.net.

Kenai Fjords Tours.
Kenai Fjords Tours, part of the Native-owned Alaska Heritage Tours, is the oldest and largest company running tours through the park. From March through mid-September it leads 3.5- to 9-hour cruises, priced from $65 (Dinner Cruise) to $214 (Captain’s Choice), which includes lunch. In 2007 and 2008 it added catamarans to its fleet, which are less susceptible to the rolling motion that can cause seasickness. Cruise options include exclusive visits to Fox Island, interpretive programs by National Park Service rangers, cruise and kayak combinations, glacier viewing, and opportunities to see whales, puffins, otters, and Steller sea lions. Transportation and overnight options are also available. | 907/276–6249, 877/777–4051 | www.kenaifjords.com.

Captain’s Choice Tour.
Captain’s Choice Tour, a part of Kenai Fjords Tours, operates smaller boats (with a maximum of 22 passengers per boat) through Kenai Fjords mid-May–August. The tour specializes in birding and photography. Breakfast and lunch are provided. | 877/777–4051 | www.kenaifjords.com.

Major Marine Tours.
Major Marine Tours conducts half-day and full-day cruises of Resurrection Bay and Kenai Fjords National Park. Park cruises are narrated by a National Park Service ranger, and meals of salmon and prime rib are an option. A custom-built catamaran runs daily from March through September. Summer cruises include a three-hour whale-watching tour and a six-hour Kenai Fjords trip, featuring narration by a national park ranger. Major Marine Tours can arrange transportation between Anchorage and Seward. | 907/274–7300, 800/764–7300 | www.majormarine.com.

Deep-Sea Fishing

Crackerjack Sportfishing.
Crackerjack Sportfishing offers full- and half-day fishing charters as well as two- to five-day fishing expeditions in the Kenai Fjords National Park and beyond. The local captains have been guiding in Seward for more than 15 years, and offer trips year-round. | 907/224–2606, 800/566–3912 | www.crackerjackcharters.com.

Hiking

Caines Head Trail.
The Caines Head Trail allows easy, flat hiking along the coast, but a large portion of the hike is over tidal mudflats, so care must be taken to time the hike correctly—with tides here running in the 10- to 20-foot range, bad planning isn’t just a case of getting your feet wet. It’s officially advised that the trail be hiked only when there’s a “plus 4-foot tide or greater” in summer. The trail is 4.5 miles, starting from Lowell Point, and two cabins can be rented at Derby Cove and Callisto Canyon.

Lost Lake/Primrose Trail.
The Lost Lake/Primrose Trail is a 16-mile end-to-end loop through spruce forests and up into the high alpine area. The Lost Lake trailhead is near Mile 5 of the Seward Highway, and the other end is at the Primrose campground at Mile 17. The trails are steep and usually snow-covered through late June, but the views along the Lost Lake valley are worth the climb. Above the tree line you’re in mountain-goat country—look for white, blocky figures perched on the precarious cliffs. The lake is a prime spot for rainbow trout fishing. As usual, be bear aware. The Dale Clemens cabin, at Mile 4.5 from the Lost Lake trailhead, has propane heat and a stunning view of Resurrection Bay. | www.fs.usda.gov/detail/chugach.

For a comprehensive listing of all the trails, cabins, and campgrounds in the Seward Ranger District of Chugach National Forest, check the website of the U.S. Forest Service.

Mt. Marathon Race.
One of the biggest events of the year in Seward is the Mt. Marathon Race, run on July 4 since 1915. Folks come from near and far to run, and the entire town comes out to celebrate. It doesn’t take the winners very long—44 minutes or so—but the route is straight up the mountain (3,022 feet) and back down to the center of town. Ambitious hikers can hit the Runner’s Trail behind Providence Medical Center on Jefferson, while those who prefer a more leisurely (though still steep) climb can take the Hiker’s Trail from 1st Avenue.

Seward Chamber of Commerce. For more information, contact the Seward Chamber of Commerce. | 907/224–8051 | www.sewardak.org.

Where to Eat in Seward

Chinooks Waterfront Restaurant.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | On the waterfront in the small-boat harbor, Chinooks has a dazzling selection of fresh seafood dishes, beers on tap, a great wine selection, and a stunning view from the upstairs window seats. Pasta dishes and a few beef specialties round out the menu. We recommend the seafood sauté. | Average main: $25 | 1404 4th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–2207 | www.chinookswaterfront.com | Closed mid-Oct.–May.

Christo’s Palace.
$$ | ECLECTIC | Serving Greek, Italian, Mexican, and seafood meals, this ornately furnished downtown restaurant is a surprisingly elegant hidden treasure. The nondescript facade belies the high-beamed ceilings, dark-wood accents, ornate chandeliers, and a large, gorgeous mahogany bar reputedly built in the mid-1800s and imported from San Francisco. Portions are generous, desserts are tempting, and there is a small selection of after-dinner cognacs. The baked halibut portobello is particularly good. | Average main: $20 | 133 4th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–5255 | www.christospalace.com.

Le Barn Appétit.
$$ | FRENCH | Don’t let the name fool you. This little restaurant and inn are in fact in an old barn, but this is no run-of-the-mill grub. You’ll find some of the finest French cuisine in Alaska. The quiche Lorraine and the crepes are worth writing home about. For dinner, the chicken cordon bleu and the stuffed pork tenderloin are perfect examples of the excellent cuisine to be found here, but you must make a reservation for dinner the day before; there’s no chance of getting seated otherwise. | Average main: $15 | 11786 Old Exit Glacier Rd. | 99664 | 907/224–8706 | www.lebarnappetit.com | 7–4; dinner only by special reservations.

Railway Cantina.
$ | MEXICAN | This little hole-in-the-wall in the harbor area is a local favorite. A wide selection of burritos, quesadillas, and great halibut and rockfish tacos incorporates local seafood and is supplemented by an array of hot sauces, many contributed by customers who brought them from their travels. | Average main: $10 | 1401 4th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–8226.

Resurrection Roadhouse.
$$ | AMERICAN | On a sunny summer evening you’ll have to fight locals for seats on the Roadhouse’s deck, which overlooks the Resurrection River and the mountains surrounding it. Set off Exit Glacier/Herman Leirer Road, and part of the Seward Windsong Lodge, the Roadhouse gets warm afternoon light that goes well with multiple types of beers on tap and excellent pizzas and sweet-potato fries. TIP The bar and restaurant have different menus—ask to see both, and then decide where to sit. | Average main: $15 | Mile 0.5, Exit Glacier Rd.;31772 Herman Leirer Rd. | 99664 | 907/224–7116, 877/777–4079 | www.sewardwindsong.com.

Where to Stay in Seward

Alaska Paddle Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | A new building offers beachfront panoramic views out at Lowell Point and access to its own private beach. Two rooms—Low Tide is downstairs and High Tide is upstairs—come with 9-foot ceilings, fireplaces, and walk-in tiled showers. Soothing earth tones round out the experience. Proprietor Alison also runs Chugach Mountain Massage 907/362–2321. Pros: unobstructed views of Resurrection Bay; waffle irons and mix in rooms. Cons: 20 steps up to the High Tide room. TripAdvisor: “a room built around a view,” “rejuvenating,” “superb hospitality.” | Rooms from: $129 | 13745 Beach Dr. | 99664 | 907/362–2628 | www.alaskapaddleinn.com | 2 rooms | Breakfast.

Breeze Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Across the street from the small-boat harbor, this modern hotel is very convenient if you’re planning an early-morning fishing trip. Some rooms in the annex building overlook the harbor and a new deluxe wing opened in 2008, offering suites with jetted tubs. Pros: directly across from the harbor; walking distance to downtown. Cons: rooms are bland and chain motel–like. TripAdvisor: “comfortable,” “very convenient,” “basic and clean.” | Rooms from: $160 | 1306 Seward Hwy. | 907/224–5237, 888/224–5237 | www.breezeinn.com | 100 rooms.

Hotel Edgewater.
$$$ | HOTEL | The rooms at Seward’s newest and snazziest hotel overlook Resurrection Bay, and on clear days the panorama of mountains, glaciers, and the bay is breathtaking. Continental breakfast is served in the lobby, a three-story atrium complete with a small waterfall, lots of plants, plus plush seating. A side room has a fireplace and a selection of works by local artists. Rooms are decorated with warm colors, artwork, and wooden crown moldings that complement the cabinetwork. Pros: downtown location is convenient to the SeaLife Center, restaurants, and shops. Cons: it’s not the cheapest waterfront lodging in town. TripAdvisor: “beautiful,” “super helpful staff,” “nice location.” | Rooms from: $200 | 202 5th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–2700, 888/793–6800 | www.hoteledgewater.com | 76 rooms | Closed Oct.–Apr. | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Hotel Seward.
$$$ | HOTEL | This historic downtown hotel is convenient to restaurants, shopping, and the Alaska SeaLife Center. Rooms in the historic wing run less expensive but have shared bathrooms. The new wing boasts flat-screen televisions, microwaves, room service, and a gym. Pros: cool historic building; excellent downtown location. Cons: no elevator in one wing. TripAdvisor: “very nice,” “central and friendly,” “pleasant hotel with local character.” | Rooms from: $200 | 221 5th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–2378, 800/655–8785 | www.hotelsewardalaska.com | 62 rooms.

Kenai Fjords Wilderness Lodge.
$$$$ | RENTAL | An hour’s boat ride from Seward, this wilderness lodge sits within a quiet, forest-lined cove on Fox Island in Resurrection Bay. Built of local wood, each cabin has two beds, private bath with shower, propane stoves, and expansive views of the bay and mountains. Lodging rates include meals, boat transportation to the island, and a cruise of Kenai Fjords National Park. Meals are served family style in the main lodge. Hiking trails make it possible to explore the island. Guided kayak trips and coastal wildlife tours can also be arranged. Pros: solitude; great views; everything’s included. Cons: its location makes it pricey. TripAdvisor: “beautiful remote island location,” “fantastic experience,” “awesome beachfront cabins.” | Rooms from: $320 | Fox Island | 907/224–8068, 877/777-4053 | www.kenaifjordslodge.com | 8 cabins | Closed Sept.–May | All meals.

Miller’s Landing.
$$ | RENTAL | This sprawling waterfront complex offers cabins, campsites for tents ($26) and RVs ($36), water-taxi service to remote sites, sea-kayak and boat and motor rentals, and a booking service for area B&Bs, fishing trips, dogsled rides, hiking expeditions, sailing tours, and wildlife cruises. The lodgings run the gamut from one-room cabins with no running water and a woodstove for heat (¢) to a full-service cottage that sleeps 12 ($$$$). The campground has wooded sites and full hookups for motor homes, laundry, showers, Internet and Wi-Fi, bait, ice, and fishing-tackle sales and rental. To reach Miller’s, take the road to Lowell Point from the SeaLife Center and follow the shoreline for 3.5 miles until you hit its parking lot on the beach. Pros: one-stop shopping for all your travel needs; a great location. Cons: some cabins are very, very basic; the campground can be overcrowded. TripAdvisor: “beautiful location,” “great people,” “nice cabins.” | Rooms from: $50 | Lowell Point Rd., Box 81 | 99664 | 907/224–5739, 866/541–5739 | www.millerslandingak.com | 13 cabins, 3 rooms, 29 tent sites, 31 RV sites with hookups.

Seward Windsong Lodge.
$$$$ | HOTEL | In a forested setting near the bank of the Resurrection River, the Seward Windsong has rooms and deluxe balcony suites decorated in warm plaids, pine furniture, and Alaskan prints. The lodge is just down the road from Exit Glacier, and a full-service restaurant is on the premises. Pros: incredible views of the river valley; Resurrection Roadhouse is right next door. Cons: outside of town, so you’ll want a car, though a complimentary shuttle service is offered. | Rooms from: $255 | Mile 0.5, Exit Glacier Rd., about 2 miles north of Seward | 907/265–4501, 888/959–9590 | www.sewardwindsong.com | 180 rooms, 16 suites.

Stoney Creek Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Sandwiched between two streams—one glacial, the other salmon-spawning—this B&B about 6 miles out of Seward offers a quiet respite from the summer buzz. Detox in the sauna or watch salmon migrate while soaking in the wooded stream-side hot tub. Enjoy an indoor common area with games and books or an outdoor picnic pavilion with a fireplace. Pros: quiet location a perfect distance from town. Cons: far enough from town that you’ll want a car. TripAdvisor: “charming,” “comfortable,” “fabulous spa.” | Rooms from: $145 | 33422 Stoney Creek Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–3940 | www.stoneycreekinn.net | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Teddy’s Inn the Woods Bed & Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | This lovely bed-and-breakfast is nestled in the woods across from Kenai Lake, surrounded by mountains and hiking trails. The stand-alone cabin sleeps up to five, and every morning, Teddy greets you with fresh fruit, juice and hot baked goods. If you’re staying for a duration, she changes up the morning fare to include eggs and other stand breakfast foods. Pros: The setting is superb; basketball courts on the property. Cons: You have to go up a flight of stairs. TripAdvisor: “absolutely wonderful,” “missed this place seconds after I left,” “a Kenai jewel.” | Rooms from: $120 | 29792 Seward Hwy(Mile 23) | 99664 | 907/288–3126 | www.seward.net/teddys/ | 1 cabin (3 twin beds, 1 queen) | No credit cards | Breakfast.

Van Gilder Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Built in 1916 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Van Gilder is an elegant building steeped in local history. Photos of Seward from the early 20th century adorn the walls, beds are brass or carved wood, and the common rooms foster a cozy B&B feel. This is definitely not a mass-market chain hotel, and the staff gives tours of the property, pointing out interesting historical information. Spend time in the common kitchen area, in the sitting room with books of local interest, or by the player piano in the lobby. Pros: oldest hotel in Seward; decor is entertaining. Cons: shared kitchen; a little on the rustic side. TripAdvisor: “great choice,” “old time feel,” “excellent location.” | Rooms from: $149 | 308 Adams St. | 99664 | 800/478-0400 | www.vangilderhotel.com | 20 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

Shopping in Seward

Ranting Raven.
The Ranting Raven is a combination gift shop, bakery, and lunch spot, adorned with raven murals on the side of the building. You can indulge in fresh-baked goods, espresso drinks, and daily lunch specials such as quiche, focaccia, and homemade soups while perusing the packed shelves of local artwork, native crafts, and jewelry. | 238 4th Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–2228.

Resurrect Art Coffeehouse.
Resurrect Art Coffeehouse is a darling coffeehouse and gallery-gift shop. It is housed in a 1932 church, and the ambience and views from the old choir loft are reason enough to stop by. Local art is showcased, and it’s a good place to find Alaskan gifts that aren’t mass-produced. | 320 3rd Ave. | 99664 | 907/224–7161 | www.resurrectart.com.

Kenai Fjords National Park

125 miles south of Anchorage.

Getting Here and Around

The only land route to the park is via Herman Leirer (Exit Glacier) Road, which ends at Exit Glacier. Boats leaving Seward for half-day tours and beyond are ample. Beyond that, access is limited, unless you charter a boat or airplane, or arrange for a tour with one of the local companies. If you take a day trip on a tour boat out of Seward, it’s highly likely you’ll see frolicking sea otters, crowds of Steller sea lions lazing on the rocky shelves along the shore, a porpoise or two, bald eagles, and tens of thousands of seabirds. Humpback whales and orcas are sighted occasionally, and mountain goats mull about the seaside cliffs. The park’s coastal fjords are a favorite of sea kayakers, who can camp or stay in reserved public-use cabins.

One of the park’s chief attractions is Exit Glacier, which can be reached only by the one road that passes into Kenai Fjords. Trails inside the park lead to an overlook of the vast Harding Icefield.

Before venturing out into the far reaches of the park, gather as much data as possible from the locals concerning the weather, tides, and dangerous beaches. Once you leave Seward, you’re a long way from help. Backcountry travelers should also be aware that some of the park’s coastline has been claimed by local Native organizations and is now private property. Check with park headquarters to avoid trespassing on Native land.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Kenai Fjords Park Office.
907/224–7500 | www.nps.gov/kefj.

Kenai Fjords National Park.
Photogenic Seward is the gateway to the 670,000-acre Kenai Fjords National Park. This is spectacular coastal parkland incised with sheer, dark, slate cliffs rising from the sea, ribboned with white waterfalls, and tufted with deep-green spruce. Kenai Fjords presents a rare opportunity for an up-close view of blue tidewater glaciers as well as some remarkable ocean wildlife.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Boating

Major Marine Tours.
Major Marine Tours runs ranger-led boat tours through the park, with both half- and full-day excursions available. | 907/274–7300, 800/764–7300 | www.majormarine.com.

Combo Tours

Kenai Fjord Tours.
Kenai Fjord Tours leads day trips into Kenai Fjords National Park. It also conducts combination train–cruise–motor coach trips from Anchorage. | 800/478–8068.

Where to Stay in Kenai Fjords National Park

National Park Service Cabins.
$ | The Kenai Fjords National Park manages four cabins, including three along the coast, favored by sea kayakers and for summer use only. The cabins cost $50 per night: three have a three-night limit, and the North Arm cabin can be reserved for up to nine nights, since it’s considerably farther out than the others. Cabins have wooden bunks, heating stoves, and tables. There’s no electricity, running water, indoor plumbing, or bedding. Pros: you’ll get all the nature you want. Cons: a few are accessible by boat or floatplane only. | Rooms from: $50 | 1212 4th Ave. | 907/224–7500 to reserve winter cabin, 907/271–2737 in Anchorage for summer rentals | www.nps.gov/kefj/index.htm | 4 cabins.

Cooper Landing

100 miles south of Anchorage.

Centrally located on the Kenai Peninsula, Cooper Landing is within striking distance of some of Alaska’s most popular fishing locations. Here the Russian River flows into the Kenai River, and spectacular fishing opportunities abound. Solid lines of traffic head south from Anchorage every summer weekend, and the confluence of the two rivers gets so crowded with enthusiastic anglers that the pursuit of salmon is often referred to as “combat fishing.” However, a short walk upstream will separate you from the crowds and afford a chance to enjoy these gorgeous blue rivers.

The Russian River supports two runs of red (sockeye) salmon every summer, and it’s the most popular fishery in the state. The Kenai River is famous for its runs of king (Chinook), red, pink, and silver (coho) salmon, as well as large rainbow trout and Dolly Varden char. A number of nearby freshwater lakes, accessible only by hiking trail, also provide excellent fishing for rainbow trout and Dolly Varden.

Don’t let the presence of dozens if not hundreds of fellow anglers lull you into a sense of complacency: in recent years the amount of brown bear activity at the Russian River has increased noticeably. This needn’t deter you from enjoying yourself, though. Be aware of the posted signs warning of recent bear sightings, observe the local “rules of the road” about fishing and disposing of carcasses, and keep your senses tuned.

Cooper Landing serves as a trailhead for the 38-mile-long Resurrection Pass Trail, which connects to the village of Hope and the Russian Lakes/Resurrection River trails, which run south to Exit Glacier near Seward. The town’s central location also affords easy access to saltwater recreation in Seward and Homer.

Getting Here and Around

Follow the line of traffic flowing south out of Anchorage on the Seward Highway every Friday; take a right at the “Y” onto the Sterling Highway and soon you’ll be there—just don’t blink or you’ll miss it! Look for the lodges and tackle shops that spring up from the wilderness, dotting either side of the highway. Cooper Landing does not operate a commercial airport.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Fishing

Most lodges in Cooper Landing cater to the fishing crowd; ask when you make your reservation.

Alaska Troutfitters.
For fly-fishing for trout and salmon, Alaska Troutfitters accommodates every level of fisherperson, from rank amateur to seasoned veteran. The company conducts a school covering everything from casting technique to fishing entomology and can arrange package deals with instruction, fishing, transportation, and accommodations. | 907/595–1212 | www.aktroutfitters.com.

Alaska Wildland Adventures.
From the lodge in Cooper Landing south of Anchorage, these folks provide fishing adventures on the upper and lower Kenai River. | 907/783–2928, 800/334–8730 | www.alaskawildland.com.

Horseback Riding

Alaska Horsemen Trail Adventures.
This Cooper Landing–based company offers multiday pack trips into the Kenai Mountains via Crescent Lake, Resurrection, and other area trail systems. | 907/595–1806, 800/595–1806 | www.alaskahorsemen.com.

Multisport

Alaska River Adventures.
These Cooper Landing–based guides take small groups fishing throughout the region, with self-professed “well-seasoned old pros.” In addition, they hold rare permits that allow them to offer trips into low-traversed areas. For those who want to experience the tranquil setting of Cooper Landing without having to go fish, they also offer “paddle and saddle” and scenic river-rafting day trips, as well as a gold-panning trip that introduces you to prospecting. | 907/595–2000, 888/836–9027 | www.alaskariveradventures.com.

Where to Eat in Cooper Landing

Sunrise Inn.
$ | AMERICAN | On the shore of Kenai Lake, this cheerful little restaurant dishes up homemade soups, chowders, and salsas. The eclectic and very reasonably priced menu includes wraps and vegetarian items. Daily specials made from scratch and hand-grated french fries feature prominently in what the owners describe as a “backwoods bistro.” There’s a spotting scope in the parking lot for spying on the Dall sheep and mountain goats in the surrounding peaks. The bar hosts live music on Saturday in summer, and there’s a great deck for when the weather’s warm. | Average main: $10 | Mile 45, Sterling Hwy. | 99575 | 907/595–1222 | www.alaskasunriseinn.com.

Where to Stay in Cooper Landing

Alaska Wildland Adventures’ Kenai Riverside Lodge.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This collection of buildings on the bank of the Kenai River offers a “roughing it in authentic comfort” all-inclusive package with renovated cabins that have private baths. Whether you choose to hike, raft, fish, attend a naturalist program, or stroll the nature trail, in the evening your most difficult decision is whether to venture into the wood-fired sauna or pour yourself into a rocking chair on the deck overlooking the Kenai River. Pros: beautiful wooded location; great adventure and expedition packages. Cons: cabins are a bit small. TripAdvisor: “fishing trip of a lifetime,” “great raft trip,” “enjoyed the salmon fishing.” | Rooms from: $180 | Mile 50.1,16520 Sterling Hwy. | 99572 | 907/595–1279, 800/478–4100 | www.alaskasportfish.com | 8 cabins | Closed Oct.–mid-May.

Eagle Landing Resort.
$$ | B&B/INN | Cabins come in three variations—regular, deluxe, and riverfront, all with private baths, heat, and kitchens. One cabin has a gourmet kitchen and private hot tub. The resort can arrange remote guided or unguided fishing trips, a backpacking drop-off, or air transportation to one of the Forest Service cabins through the local guides in town. Pros: accommodations fit any budget; great views; fantastic kitchens. Cons: some staircases are steep (although most cabins also have bedrooms downstairs); some upstairs rooms are only semiprivate. | Rooms from: $159 | Mile 48.1, Sterling Hwy., Box 748 | 99672 | 907/595–1213, 866/595–1213 | www.eaglelandingresort.net | 12 cabins.

Great Alaska Adventure Lodge.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Midway between Seward and Homer, this lodge lives up to its name. Activities include natural history, soft-adventure options, and a remote bear-viewing camp. The fishing guides are top-notch, and seven world records have been set along the camp’s riverbanks. Take 2- to 10-day trips with any-day arrivals and free Anchorage pick-up. Rates include lodging, meals, and most activities, and the basic fishing package—two days and one night, all expenses covered, including a fishing guide—runs $1,195 per person. Also available are group packages, plus a fly-out bear-viewing camp and boat-in kayaking camp. Rooms, which are in the main lodge or in riverside cabins, have fireplaces, artwork, and comfortable seating. Some of the cabins are two stories with spiral staircases. Pros: all-inclusive; right along the Sterling Highway. Cons: right on the Sterling Highway. TripAdvisor: “great time and setting,” “great Alaskan adventure,” “incredible fishing.” | Rooms from: $1195 | Mile 82.5,33881 Sterling Hwy. | Sterling | 99672 | 907/262–4515, 800/544–2261, 360/697–6454 in winter | www.greatalaska.com | 25 rooms | Closed Oct.–mid-May.

Gwin’s Lodge.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Gwin’s is the epicenter of much of the activity on the peninsula. This roadside establishment is a one-stop shop for visitors and locals alike, providing food, lodging, and fishing tackle around the clock in summer. The travel agency can book fishing, hiking, rafting, and other adventure travel anywhere on the peninsula. The lodge is the fishing headquarters of prospective anglers during the annual salmon runs on the nearby Russian and Kenai rivers. Accommodations vary in configuration from standard log cabins with beds and private baths ($) to deluxe chalets with lofts, vaulted ceilings, and full kitchens ($$$$). The restaurant ($$) serves a full menu of fresh fish when available, sandwiches, steaks, and hearty breakfasts. A giant salmon bake was constructed in 2008, serving grilled salmon and live music against the backdrop of the steep mountains. Pros: get everything you need in one place. Cons: some cabins are actually trailers with a log facade. | Rooms from: $200 | Mile 52, Sterling Hwy. | 99572 | 907/595–1266 | www.gwinslodge.com | 17 rooms | Restaurant closed Oct.–Mar.

The Inn at Tern Lake.
$$ | B&B/INN | Although the address is technically in Moose Pass, the Inn at Tern Lake sits right between Cooper Landing and Moose Pass, a few miles south of the “Y” where the Sterling Highway branches off the Seward. The inn is nestled in a valley of spruce trees between the jagged peaks of the Kenai Mountains. Walk (or, in winter, cross-country ski) through the woods to the shore of Tern Lake, soak in the hot tub, practice your tennis or putting (on the landing strip), or just scan the mountainsides for Dall sheep, mountain goats, or bears. The rooms and common areas have antiques and Alaskan artifacts, and the Hetricks will help you book any other adventures. Pros: babbling springs and terns on the lake complete the Alaska experience. Cons: its unique location also means it’s a bit far from any amenities. TripAdvisor: “the most luxurious accommodations,” “a little spot of heaven,” “exceptionally lovely place.” | Rooms from: $150 | Mile 36, Seward Hwy. | 907/288–3667 | www.ternlakeinn.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | “Elegantly rustic” might best describe this sprawling complex approximately 45 miles from Seward, on a bluff overlooking the Kenai River. Paths lead from the main lodge to charming bungalows, each containing four spacious units. Buildings higher on the bluff house eight units. Each has a king or two double beds, a wood-burning fireplace, a comfortable sitting area, and a porch. Vaulted ceilings of natural-finish wood complement the Alaskan art prints on the walls. Staff can arrange for fishing, flightseeing, horseback riding, and river rafting. There’s also a nature trail. The Eagle’s Crest Restaurant serves a variety of Alaska fare, including seafood, and the Rafter’s Lounge offers a good menu of bar food and local beers that can be enjoyed on the spacious deck overlooking the river. Pros: cozy rooms have fireplaces and manage to escape a corporate feel. Cons: rooms don’t have views of the river, even though the lodge sits right on top of it. TripAdvisor: “great place to get away from it all,” “the best,” “a great local’s getaway.” | Rooms from: $190 | Mile 47.7, Sterling Hwy | 99572 | 907/595–1425, 800/426–0500 | www.princesslodges.com/kenai_lodge.cfm | 86 rooms | Closed mid-Sept.–May.

Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

95 miles northwest of Kenai Fjords National Park, 150 miles southwest of Anchorage.

Getting Here and Around

TIP You must paddle into the refuge; access is generally by canoe. Road access to the canoe trailheads is off the Swanson River Road at Mile 83.4 of the Sterling Highway. Other than canoeing, the only way to get into the far reaches of the refuge is by airplane. Floatplane services in Soldotna, where the refuge is headquartered, can fly you into the backcountry. The refuge office maintains lists of transporters, air taxis, canoe rentals, and big-game guides that are permitted to operate on refuge lands. To reach the main visitor center–refuge office on Ski Hill Road, turn south on Funny River Road in Soldotna just west of the Kenai River Bridge, and follow the signs.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center.
Ski Hill Rd. | Soldotna | 99669 | 907/262–7021 | fws.gov/refuges/profiles/index.cfm?id=74525.

Kenai National Wildlife Refuge.
Its nearly 2 million acres include a portion of the Harding Icefield as well as two large and scenic lakes, Skilak and Tustumena. The refuge is not only the finest moose habitat in the region, but its waterways are great for canoeing and kayaking. The refuge maintains two visitor centers. The main center, in Soldotna, has wildlife dioramas, free films and information, and a bookstore and gift shop. There’s also a seasonal “contact” center at Mile 57.8 of the Sterling Highway, open from mid-June to mid-August.

Wildlife is plentiful even by Alaskan standards: the refuge was originally established to protect the Kenai moose. Although caribou seldom appear near the road, Dall sheep and mountain goats live on the peaks near Cooper Landing, and black and brown bears, wolves, coyotes, lynx, beavers, and lots of birds reside here as well.

The refuge also contains a canoe trail system through the Swan Lake and Swanson River areas. Covering more than 140 miles on 100 lakes and the Swanson River, this route is an underused portion of the refuge that escapes the notice of most visitors and residents alike. This series of lakes linked by overland portages offers fantastic access to the remote backcountry, well away from what passes for civilization in the subarctic. The fishing improves exponentially with distance from the road system, and opportunities for undisturbed wildlife viewing are nearly unlimited.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Biking

Alaska Backcountry Bike Tours.
Guided day and multiday hiking-mountain biking combo trips are a great way to get into the Kenai NWR wilderness. Contact Alaska Backcountry Bike Tours to set something up. | 132, W. Arctic Ave. | Palmer | 99645 | 907/7465018 | www.mountainbikealaska.com.

Canoeing

The best way to experience the refuge’s backcountry is by canoe. The Swan Lake Canoe System and the Swanson River Canoe System are accessed from the road system at the turnoff at Mile 83.4 of the Sterling Highway. Several loop trips enable visitors to fish, hike, and camp away from the road system and motorized boat traffic. Fishing for trout, salmon, and Dolly Varden is excellent, and the series of lakes and portages offer access to more than 100 miles of waterways. The Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center has a list of canoeing outfitters.

Hiking

Hiking trails branch off from the Sterling Highway and the Skilak Lake Loop. Degree of difficulty ranges from easy half-mile walks to strenuous climbs to mountain lakes. Bring topographic maps, water, food, insect repellent, and bear awareness. You won’t find toilets, water fountains, or signposts. Remember: brown and black bears are numerous on the Kenai Peninsula.

Where to Stay in Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

Kenai Backcountry Lodge.
$$$$ | ALL-INCLUSIVE | A trip to the Kenai Backcountry Lodge involves much more than driving up to the door and booking a room—in fact, that’s not even an option. Access is by boat across Skilak Lake. There you can stay in a traditional Alaskan tent cabin or a log cabin, taking all your meals, included in the price, at the main lodge. Hot water and showers are at the shared bathhouse, and the company stresses a low-impact, environmentally friendly facility. Trip cost includes all guided activities, such as hiking, kayaking, a Kenai River Canyon raft trip, motorboat tours, and wildlife viewing. With all the moose, caribou, wolves, bears, eagles, and spawning salmon, chances are you’ll see more animals than people during your stay. There’s a two-night minimum. Pros: gets you to the backcountry without roughing it too much. Cons: shared bathrooms. | Rooms from: $525 | 800/334–8730 | www.alaskawildland.com/kenaibackcountrylodge.htm | 4 log cabins, 6 tent cabins | Closed Sept.–May.

USFWS Cabins.
$ | RENTAL | These cabins are in remote areas of the refuge accessible only by air or boat. The reservation system is a bit cumbersome, but can be done over the phone. However, if you’re willing to overcome these hurdles, you’ll find tranquillity and true wilderness, and won’t have to worry about your tent springing a leak. Pros: the true experience of being off the grid. Cons: making a reservation is no easy feat; no amenities. | Rooms from: $35 | 907/262–7021, 877/285–5628 | kenai.fws.gov/visitorseducators/cabin/reserve.htm | 11 cabins.

Kenai and Soldotna

116 miles northwest of Seward, 148 miles southwest of Anchorage.

The towns of Kenai and Soldotna are mentioned almost interchangeably due to their proximity. Soldotna, with its strategic location on the peninsula’s northwest coast, is the commercial and sportfishing hub of the Kenai Peninsula. Along with its sister city, Kenai, whose onion-dome Holy Assumption Russian Orthodox Church highlights the city’s old town, it is home to Cook Inlet oil-field workers and their families. Soldotna’s commercial center stretches along the Sterling Highway, making this a stopping point for those traveling up and down the peninsula. The town of Kenai lies near the end of the road that branches off the Sterling Highway in Soldotna. Near Kenai is Captain Cook State Recreation Area, one of the least-visited state parks on the road system. This portion of the peninsula is level and forested, with numerous lakes and streams pocking and crisscrossing the area. Trumpeter swans return here in spring, and sightings of moose are common.

Getting Here and Around

As you’re driving either north or south on the Sterling Highway from Cooper Landing or Homer, you’ll know you’ve hit Soldotna when you’re suddenly stuck in traffic in between strip malls. Kenai is 11 miles up the Kenai Spur Highway, which originates in central Soldotna. Commercial flights are available to Kenai from Anchorage.

Essentials

Medical Assistance

Central Peninsula General Hospital.
250 Hospital Pl. | 99669 | 907/714–4404.

Visitor Information

Kenai Visitor and Convention Bureau.
11471 Kenai Spur Hwy. | Kenai | 99611 | 907/283–1991.

Exploring Kenai and Soldotna

Clam Gulch.
In addition to fishing, clam digging is also popular at Clam Gulch, 24 miles south of Soldotna on the Sterling Highway. This is a favorite of local children, who love any excuse to dig in the muddy, sloppy goo. Ask locals on the beach how to find the giant razor clams (recognized by their dimples in the sand). Ask for advice on how to clean the clams—cleaning is pretty labor intensive, and it’s easy to get into a clam-digging frenzy when the conditions are favorable, only to regret your efforts when cleaning time arrives. The clam digging is best when tides are minus 4 or 5 feet. TIP A sportfishing license, available at grocery stores, sporting-goods shops, and drugstores, is required for clam diggers 16 years old and over.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Fishing

Anglers from around the world come for the salmon-choked streams and rivers, most notably the Kenai River and its companion, the Russian River. Knowledgeable fishery professionals figure it’s only a matter of time before someone with sportfishing gear catches a 100-pounder. There are two runs of kings up the Kenai every summer. The first run starts in mid-May and tapers off in early July, and the second run is from early July until the season ends on July 31. Generally speaking, the first run has more fish, but they tend to be smaller than second-run fish. Smaller, of course, has a whole different meaning when it comes to these fish. Fifty- and 60-pounders are unremarkable here, and 40-pound fish are routinely tossed back as being “too small.” The limit is one king kept per day, five per season, no more than two of which can be from the Kenai. In addition to a fishing license, you must obtain a special Alaska king salmon license stamp and a harvest record. These can be purchased on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website (www.adfg.alaska.gov), or check with your guide, as most guides sell them. The river also supports two runs of red (sockeye) salmon every year, as well as runs of silver (coho) and pink (humpback) salmon. Rainbow trout of near-mythic proportions inhabit the river, as do Dolly Varden char. TIP Fishing pressure is heavy, so don’t expect a wilderness experience, especially in the lower river near Soldotna.

Farther up the river, between Kenai Lake in Cooper Landing and Skilak Lake, motorboats are banned, so a more idyllic experience can be had. Scores of guide services ply the river, and if you’re inexperienced at the game, consider hiring a guide for a half-day or full-day trip. Deep-sea fishing for salmon and halibut out of Deep Creek is challenging Homer’s position as the preeminent fishing destination on the southern Kenai Peninsula. This fishery is unusual in that tractors launch boats off the beach and into the Cook Inlet surf. The local campground and RV lot is packed on summer weekends.

Area phone books list some 300 fishing charters and guides, all of whom stay busy during the hectic summer fishing season.

Alaska Wildland Adventures.
Head down the Kenai River and learn about the surroundings and wildlife with these guides. One of the oldest and largest outfitters on the peninsula, it has trips to suit anyone. | 800/478–4100 | www.alaskarivertrips.com.

Hi Lo Charters.
Hi Lo Charters is a family-operated outfit that’s been in business for more than 20 years. It’s a full-service guide outfitter that specializes in hooking king salmon. | 907/283–9691 | www.hilofishing.com.

Sports Den.
The Sports Den arranges fishing trips on the river, on the saltwater, or to a remote fly-in location for salmon, trout, or halibut. | 907/262–7491 | www.alaskasportsden.com.

Multisport

Alaska Canoe & Campground.
This region is known for its outstanding kayaking, canoeing, and fishing. Alaska Canoe & Campground outfits cabins, offers instruction, and shuttles to put-in and take-out points. They also outfit for fishing adventures. | 907/262–2331 | www.alaskacanoetrips.com.

Where to Eat in Kenai and Soldotna

The Duck Inn.
$$ | AMERICAN | With pizzas, burgers, chicken, steaks, and seafood, there’s something for everyone. Portions are generous, and the prices are reasonable. Locally caught halibut is a specialty, prepared in enough different ways to stave off halibut overload. There’s also lots of artwork featuring ducks. | Average main: $15 | 43187 Kalifornsky Beach Rd. | 99669 | 907/262–2656.

Sal’s Klondike Diner.
$ | AMERICAN | In Sterling, between Cooper Landing and Soldotna, Sal’s has a true diner atmosphere. It’s open 24 hours, and the portions are large; there’s even a sign on the wall that says, “If you’re still hungry, tell us.” Burgers, sandwiches, fish-and-chips, halibut, salmon, and some steaks are available, along with homemade bread and pies baked every day. You can buy loaves of sourdough, white, or wheat bread. It’s a favorite spot for locals. | Average main: $10 | 44619 Sterling Hwy. | Sterling | 99669 | 907/262–2220.

St. Elias Brewing Company.
$ | AMERICAN | Everything at St. Elias is homemade: the ever-rotating beers, the stone-fired rustic pizza, the sandwiches, and the desserts. The calzones are to die for and the Mt. Redoubt chocolate cake with a molten center is simply divine. This is a great place to check out the locals; the patrons are just as friendly as the staff. | Average main: $12 | 434 Sharkathmi Ave. | Sterling | 99672 | 907/260–7837 | www.steliasbrewingco.com.

Where to Stay in Kenai and Soldotna

Aspen Hotel Soldotna.
$$ | HOTEL | The Soldotna hostelry sits on a bluff overlooking the Kenai River, and if you get a river-view room you’ll have a front-row seat for the fishing action during salmon runs. In addition to regular rooms, the Aspen also offers two family suites with bunk beds, and several executive suites. Pros: hot tub; swimming pool; river frontage. Cons: bland, corporate feel. TripAdvisor: “great little hotel,” “very comfortable,” “clean.” | Rooms from: $169 | 326 Binkley Circle | 99669 | 907/260–7736, 888/308–7848 | www.aspenhotelsak.com | 63 rooms | Breakfast.

Best Western King Salmon Motel.
$$ | HOTEL | This Best Western has large rooms, including some with kitchenettes. If you’re traveling by RV, you can take advantage of the park with full hookups, available for $35 per night. Pros: meticulously cleaned. Cons: surrounded by strip malls. TripAdvisor: “great breakfast,” “spacious room,” “very clean.” | Rooms from: $149 | 35546-A Kenai Spur Hwy. | 99669 | 907/262–5857, 888/262–5857 | www.bestwestern.com | 49 rooms.

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