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Kodiak | Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
Updated by Lisa Hupp
Russian explorers discovered Kodiak Island in 1763, and the city of Kodiak served as Alaska’s first capital until 1804, when the government was moved to Sitka. Situated as it is in the northwestern Gulf of Alaska, Kodiak has been subjected to several natural disasters. In 1912 a volcanic eruption on the nearby Alaska Peninsula covered the town site in knee-deep drifts of ash and pumice. The 1964 earthquake and resulting tsunami destroyed the island’s large fishing fleet and smashed Kodiak’s low-lying downtown area.
Kodiak
248 miles southwest of Anchorage by air.
Today commercial fishing is king in Kodiak. Despite its small population—about 13,500 people scattered among the several islands in the Kodiak group—the city is among the busiest fishing ports in the United States. The harbor is also an important supply point for small communities on the Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula.
Visitors to the island tend to follow one of two agendas: either immediately fly out to a remote lodge for fishing, kayaking, or bear viewing; or stay in town and access whatever pursuits they can reach from the limited road system. If the former is too pricey an option, consider combining the two: driving the road system to see what can be seen inexpensively, then adding a fly-out or charter-boat excursion to a remote lodge or wilderness access point.
Floatplane and boat charters are available from Kodiak to numerous remote attractions. Chief among these areas is the 1.6-million-acre Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge, lying partly on Kodiak Island and partly on Afognak Island to the north, where spotting the enormous Kodiak brown bears is the main goal of a trip. Seeing the bears, which weigh a pound at birth but up to 1,500 pounds when fully grown, is worth the trip to this rugged country. The bears are spotted easily in July and August, feeding along salmon-spawning streams. Chartered flightseeing trips go to the area, and exaggerated tales of encounters with these impressive beasts are frequently heard.
Getting Here and Around
Access to the island is via the Alaska Marine Highway (which makes several stops a week) or by plane. A few roads stretch out of town, perfect for a day of sightseeing. The action, however, is in town. Kodiak is the entry point for Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge.
Your first stop in exploring the island should be the Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau. Here you can pick up brochures, pamphlets, and lists of all the visitor services on Kodiak and the surrounding islands, and get help with planning your adventures. If you want to strike out and hike the local trails, there’s an informative Hiking and Birding Guide published by the Kodiak Audubon Society.
Essentials
Medical Assistance
Providence Kodiak Island Medical Center.
1915 E. Rezanof Dr. | 99615 | 907/486–3281.
Visitor Information
Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau.
100 Marine Way, Suite 200 | 99615 | 907/486–4782, 800/789–4782 | www.kodiak.org.
Exploring Kodiak
Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository.
The Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository is home to one of the largest collections of Alaska Native materials in the world, and contains archaeological and ethnographic items dating back 7,500 years. The museum displays only a fraction of its more than 150,000 artifacts, including harpoons, masks, dolls, stone tools, seal-gut parkas, grass baskets, and pottery fragments. The museum store sells Native arts and educational materials. | 215 Mission Rd., Suite 101 | 99615 | 907/486–7004 | www.alutiiqmuseum.org | $5 | May–Aug., Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. by appointment; Sept.–April, Tues.–Fri. 9–5, Sat. noon–4.
Baranov Museum.
The Baranov Museum presents artifacts from the area’s Russian past. On the National Register of Historic Places, the building was built in 1808 by Alexander Baranov to warehouse precious sea-otter pelts. W.J. Erskine made it his home in 1911. On display are samovars, a collection of intricate native basketry, and other relics from the early Native Koniags and the later Russian settlers. A collection of 40 albums of archival photography portrays various aspects of the island’s history. Contact the museum for a calendar of events. | 101 Marine Way | 99615 | 907/486–5920 | www.baranovmuseum.org | $5 | June–Aug., Mon.–Sat. 10–4; Sept.–May, Tues.–Sat. 10–3.
Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park.
As part of America’s North Pacific defense in World War II, Kodiak was the site of an important naval station, now occupied by the Coast Guard fleet that patrols the surrounding fishing grounds. Part of the old military installation has been incorporated into Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park, 3½ miles north of Kodiak on Rezanof Drive. Self-guided tours take you past concrete bunkers and gun emplacements, and a network of trails wind through moss-draped spruce forest. There’s a spectacular scenic overlook, great for bird- and whale-watching, and a volunteer-run military history museum inside a bunker; call the park for museum hours. | Mile 3.7, Rezanof Dr. | 907/486–6339 | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/kodiak/ftaber.htm | No credit cards.
Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church.
The ornate Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church is a visual feast, both inside and out. The cross-shape building is topped by two onion-shape blue domes, and the interior contains brass candelabra, distinctive chandeliers, and numerous icons representing Orthodox saints. Three different churches have stood on this site since 1794. Built in 1945, the present structure is on the National Register of Historic Places. | 385 Kashevaroff Rd. | 99615 | 907/486–3854 parish priest | Donations accepted | By appointment.
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center.
Whether you’re spending time in the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge itself, make sure you stop by the new Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center (located a block from the downtown ferry dock). Wander through exhibits about Refuge flora and fauna, attend an interpretive talk, and marvel at the complete 36-foot hanging skeleton of a male gray whale on the second floor. | 402 Center Ave. | 99615 | 907/487–2626 | kodiak.fws.gov.
Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours
Kodiak Adventures Unlimited.
Kodiak Adventures Unlimited books charter and tour operators for all of Kodiak. Find their summer kiosk in St. Paul Harbor across from Wells Fargo. | 105 Marine Way | 907/486–8766, 907/539–8767 | www.kodiakadventuresunlimited.com.
Memory Makers Tour and Guide Service.
Memory Makers Tour and Guide Service specializes in angling day trips on the local Kodiak road system; guide Dake Schmidt’s knowledge and passion for fishing the 15 local rivers are a real find for those not flying off to remote lodges. Fishing gear, lunch, and a comfy van provided, with sightseeing, wildlife-viewing, and photography tours also available. | 1523 B Mission Road | 907/486–7000 | www.memorymakersinak.com.
Where to Eat in Kodiak
Henry’s Great Alaskan Restaurant.
$$ | AMERICAN | Henry’s is a big, boisterous, friendly place at the plaza near the small-boat harbor. The menu is equally big, ranging from fresh local seafood and barbecue to pastas and even some Cajun dishes. Dinner specials, a long list of appetizers, salads, rack of lamb, and a tasty dessert list round out the choices. | Average main: $18 | 512 E. Marine Way | 99615 | 907/486–8844 | www.henryskodiak.com | Closed Sun. Oct.–Apr.
Java Flats.
$ | CAFÉ | This great coffee shop represents the true essence of Kodiak life. Fantastic breakfast burritos, vegetarian sandwiches, and excellent coffee make this the perfect place to stock up on provisions before embarking on exciting bear-watching and salmon-fishing adventures. | Average main: $9 | 11206 W. Rezanof Dr. | 99615 | 907/487–2622 | www.javaflats.com | No dinner. Closed Mon.
Mill Bay Coffee & Pastries.
$ | CAFÉ | Serving breakfast, lunches and fabulous pastries, this charming little shop is well worth a visit. The coffee is freshly roasted on-site every other day. Inside, elegant antique furnishings are complemented by local artwork and handicrafts. | Average main: $7 | 3833 Rezanof Dr. E | 99615 | 907/486–4411 | www.millbaycoffee.com | No dinner. Closed Tues.
Old Powerhouse Restaurant.
$$ | SEAFOOD | This converted powerhouse facility allows a close-up view of Near Island and the channel connecting the boat harbors with the Gulf of Alaska. Enjoy fresh sushi and sashimi while watching the procession of fishing boats gliding past on their way to catch or deliver your next meal. Keep your eyes peeled for sea otters, seals, sea lions, and eagles, too. The menu also features tempura, yakisoba (fried noodles), and rice specials. | Average main: $18 | 516 E. Marine Way | 99615 | 907/481–1088 | Closed Mon. No lunch Sun.
Where to Stay in Kodiak
A Channel View Bed & Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | Owned and operated by a fifth-generation Kodiak Alaskan, this emerald-isle favorite has sea views and is conveniently located less than 1 mile from downtown Kodiak. Hosts Mary and Ron Doubt are well known for their hospitality, offering local knowledge and home-cooked breakfasts; there is a self-contained apartment (with kitchen, bath, and deck) as well as a studio, 2 guest rooms, a shared lounge area, and a lovely dining room with bay windows overlooking the channel. Pros: channel views; very hospitable owners. Cons: slightly inconvenient if you don’t have a car and aren’t keen on a 20-minute walk into town (but Mary and Ron can help you call a cab). TripAdvisor: “incredible scenery,” “wonderful hosts,” “spacious and fun.” | Rooms from: $130 | 1010 Stellar Way | 99615 | 907/486–2470 | www.kodiakchannelview.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Best Western Kodiak Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Rooms here have soothing floral decor, and some overlook the harbor. The Chart Room Restaurant has harbor views and serves local seafood and American fare, including steak and pasta. Pros: downtown location. Cons: harbor-view rooms are on the street; quieter rooms are in the back. TripAdvisor: “all you need in a motel,” “great location,” “convenient and friendly.” | Rooms from: $179 | 236 W. Rezanof Dr. | 99615 | 907/486–5712, 888/563–4254 | www.kodiakinn.com | 82 rooms | Breakfast.
Cliff House B&B.
$$ | B&B/INN | Perched on Kodiak’s rocky coastline, this newly-built custom house hosts a suite of 3 rooms with common sitting area, private entrance, shared bath, and kitchen facilities complete with homemade granola and a “bottomless cookie jar.” The main house has a deluxe room overlooking the water with a private bath and access to the upstairs reading library. Relax on the cliffside deck and enjoy the artwork and organic gardens of hosts Marty and Marion Owen, who also offer Galley Gourmet Dinner Cruises aboard the their classic 42-foot yacht, the Sea Breeze. Pros: excellent views; we repeat: bottomless cookie jar; cozy library for rainy-day relaxation. Cons: shared bath for some rooms. | Rooms from: $125 | 1223 W Kouskov | 99615 | 907/486–5079 | www.kodiak-alaska-dinner-cruises.com/kodiak-bed-breakfast.html | 4 rooms, 2 baths | Breakfast.
Comfort Inn Kodiak.
$$ | HOTEL | This recently remodeled hotel is a five-minute walk from the main terminal at the airport, about 4½ miles from downtown (but free airport transportation is provided). The Buskin Riverside Restaurant ($$$) serves local seafood—including king crab, scallops, and Cajun prawns—pasta, pizza, and steaks. Pros: fish for salmon in the river out back. Cons: a bit out of town, so you might want a vehicle. TripAdvisor: “a comfortable stay,” “excellent service,” “great breakfast.” | Rooms from: $180 | 1395 Airport Way | 99615 | 907/487–2700, 800/544–2202 | www.comfortinn.com/hotel-kodiak-alaska-AK025?promo=gglocal | 50 rooms | Breakfast.
Hilltop B&B.
$ | B&B/INN | This spacious, split-level home features 7 bedrooms and 3.5 bathrooms, with a private entrance, kitchenette, deck with BBQ grill, and plenty of parking space. Rates are affordable and rental options varied: reserve a single room or the entire house to accommodate up to 11 people. Self-service continental breakfast provided. Pros: wood-burning stove, close to grocery shopping. Cons: away from downtown, so rental car advisable. | Rooms from: $125 | 993 Hilltop St. | 99615 | 907/539–2325 | www.kodiakhilltopbnb.com | 7 rooms.
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
50 miles south of Katmai National Park, 300 miles southwest of Anchorage.
Getting Here and Around
The refuge is on Kodiak Island and is therefore accessible only by boat or plane. The Alaska Marine Highway stops at the town of Kodiak several times a week in the summer months. From there the Visitor’s Bureau can provide lists of the numerous guides, outfitters, and air taxis that service the refuge.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge.
1390 Buskin River Rd., MS 559 | 99615 | 907/487–2600, 888/408–3514 | kodiak.fws.gov.
Exploring Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge.
The 1.9-million-acre Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge lies mostly on Kodiak Island and neighboring Afognak and Uganik islands, in the Gulf of Alaska. All are part of the Kodiak Archipelago, separated from Alaska’s mainland by the stormy Shelikof Strait. Within the refuge are rugged mountains, tundra meadows and lowlands, thickly forested hills that are enough different shades of green to make a leprechaun cry, plus lakes, marshes, and hundreds of miles of pristine coastland. No place in the refuge is more than 15 miles from the ocean. The weather here is generally wet and cool, and storms born in the North Pacific often bring heavy rains.
Dozens of species of birds flock to the refuge each spring and summer, including Aleutian terns, horned puffins, black oystercatchers, ravens, ptarmigan, and chickadees. At least 600 pairs of bald eagles live on the islands, building the world’s largest bird nests on shoreline cliffs and in tall trees. Seeing the Kodiak brown bears alone is worth the trip to this rugged country. When they emerge from their dens in spring, the bears chow down on some skunk cabbage to wake their stomachs up, have a few extra salads of sedges and grasses, and then feast on the endless supply of fish when salmon return. About the time they start thinking about hibernating again the berries are ripe (they may eat 2,000 or more berries a day). Kodiak brown bears, the biggest brown bears anywhere, sometimes topping out at more than 1,500 pounds, share the refuge with only a few other land mammals: red foxes, river otters, short-tailed weasels, and tundra voles.
Six species of Pacific salmon—chums, kings, pinks, silvers, sockeyes, and steelhead—return to Kodiak’s waters from May to October. Other resident species include rainbow trout, Dolly Varden (an anadromous trout waiting for promotion to salmon), and arctic char. The abundance of fish and bears makes the refuge popular with anglers, hunters, and wildlife-watchers.
Sports, the Outdoors, and Guided Tours
Bear Viewing and Sportfishing
Rohrer Bear Camp.
Rohrer Bear Camp guides both bear viewers and visitors who come to Kodiak seeking the island’s abundant sportfishing opportunities. | 907/486–5835 | www.sportfishingkodiak.com.
Where to Stay in Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
Kodiak Refuge Public-Use Cabins.
$ | Some of the Refuge’s lesser-known wonders are the fantastic cabins that it has scattered all over Alaska. If you have ever wanted to be off alone in the Bush but still have a roof over your head, this is the way to go. The Kodiak Refuge has eight recreation cabins (accessible by floatplane or boat) available for up to seven days (longer in the off-season). Set along the coast and on inland lakes, the cabins are bare-bones, but do include bunks (which seldom come with mattresses), kerosene heaters (you bring in your own kerosene), tables, and benches. Most cabins hold six or eight people. Although the most popular locations can be booked solid, if you get a sudden impulse, it’s always worth checking to see if a lesser-known (but likely just as beautiful) cabin is available. The cabins on inland lakes are usually not accessible in winter, and it’s important to remember that any time you fly into remote Alaska you should come prepared for delays getting back out. Pack extra food and supplies, just in case. Pros: true Alaska wilderness, all to yourself. Cons: the chance of getting weathered in for a couple of days means a loose schedule is a necessity; less likely is getting picked for the lottery. | Rooms from: $30 | 1390 Buskin River Rd. | 99615 | 907/487–2600 | www.recreation.gov | Reservations essential | 8 cabins.
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