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Mat-Su Valley and Beyond

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Giant homegrown vegetables and the headquarters of the best-known dogsled race in the world are among the most prominent attractions of the Matanuska-Susitna (Mat-Su) Valley. The valley, lying an hour north of Anchorage by road, draws its name from its two largest rivers, the Matanuska and the Susitna, and is bisected by the Parks and Glenn highways. Major cities are Wasilla (on the Parks Highway) and Palmer (on the Glenn Highway). To the east the Glenn Highway connects to the Richardson Highway by way of several high mountain passes sandwiched between the Chugach Mountains to the south and the Talkeetnas to the north. TIP At Mile 103 of the Glenn Highway you can view the massive Matanuska Glacier from the road.

Mat-Su Valley

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Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

100 miles southwest of Anchorage by air.

Getting Here and Around

There’s no road access to the park, so all visits are via small plane. There are no roads within the park, nor are any groceries or camping supplies available. Most people fly into Port Alsworth, where lodging and supplies are available; while you’re there sign in at the visitor center.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Exploring Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve.
When the weather is good, an idyllic choice beyond the Mat-Su Valley is the 3.4-million-acre Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, on the Alaska Peninsula and a short flight from Anchorage or Kenai and Soldotna. The parklands stretch from the coast to the heights of two grand volcanoes: Mt. Iliamna and Mt. Redoubt (which made headlines in 2009 when it erupted, sending ash floating over the region), both topping out above 10,000 feet. The country in between holds glaciers, waterfalls, and turquoise-tinted lakes. The 50-mile-long Lake Clark, filled by runoff waters from the mountains that surround it, is an important spawning ground for thousands of red (sockeye) salmon.

The river-running is superb in this park. You can make your way through dark forests of spruce and balsam poplars or hike over the high, easy-to-travel tundra. The animal life is profuse: look for bears, moose, Dall sheep, wolves, wolverines, foxes, beavers, and mink on land; seals, sea otters, and white (or beluga) whales offshore. Wildflowers embroider the meadows and tundra in spring, and wild roses bloom in the shadows of the forests. Plan your trip to Lake Clark for the end of June or early July, when the insects may be less plentiful. Or consider late August or early September, when the tundra glows with fall colors.

Sports and the Outdoors in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Castle Mountain Outfitters.
Based in Chickaloon, north of Anchorage in Matanuska Valley, this outfitter conducts a variety of trips ranging from guided hour-long horseback rides to one-week expeditions. | 907/745–6427 | www.mtaonline.net/~cmoride/index.html.

Where to Stay in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Farm Lodge.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Near park headquarters in Port Alsworth, the farm was built as a homestead back in the 1940s and has been a lodge since 1977. It’s undergone recent remodeling. Five modern duplexes house as many as 40 guests in private rooms that have either bunk or double beds. A large, manicured, and fenced lawn with flower and vegetable gardens surrounds the main lodge, where home-cooked meals including fresh vegetables, salmon, and domestic meats are served (included in the price). The lodge also provides flight services and guided trips. Pros: at the headquarters of Lake Clark National Park; renowned flight service; family-friendly. Cons: removed from road system. | Rooms from: $185 | 888/440–2281 Lake Clark, 800/668-7761 Anchorage | www.lakeclarkair.com/farm_lodge.html | 13 rooms | All meals.

Palmer

40 miles northeast of Anchorage.

With mountain-ringed farms, Palmer is charming and photogenic. This is the place to search for 100-pound cabbages and fresh farm cheese. Historic buildings are scattered throughout the Matanuska-Susitna Valley (often just referred to as the “Mat-Su Valley” or simply “the Valley”); in 1935 the federal government relocated about 200 farm families from the Depression-ridden Midwest to the Mat-Su Valley. Now it has developed into the state’s major agricultural region. Good growing conditions of rich soil combined with long hours of summer sunlight result in some huge vegetables.

Getting Here and Around

The Glenn Highway heads north out of Anchorage and right through Palmer. The Chugach Range lines both sides of Palmer’s valley, and if you continue past the town you’ll find yourself smack in the middle of the mountains.

Essentials

Medical Assistance

Mat-Su Regional Medical Center.
2500 S. Woodworth Loop | 99645 | 907/861–6000 | www.matsuregional.com.

Visitor Information

Mat-Su Convention & Visitors Bureau.
7744 E. Visitors View Ct. | 99645 | 907/746–5000 | www.alaskavisit.com.
Palmer Chamber of Commerce.
723 S. Valley Way | 99645 | 907/745–2880 | www.palmerchamber.org.

Exploring Palmer

Independence Mine.
Gold mining was an early mainstay of the Mat-Su Valley’s economy. You can tour the long-dormant Independence Mine on the Hatcher Pass Road, a loop that in summer connects the Parks Highway just north of Willow to the Glenn Highway near Palmer. The road to Independence Mine from the Palmer side was paved in the summer of 2003. The remainder of the roadway to Willow is gravel. In the 1940s as many as 200 workers were employed by the mine. Today it is a 271-acre state park and a cross-country ski area in winter. Only the wooden buildings remain; one of them, the red-roof manager’s house, is now used as a visitor center. Guided tours are given on weekdays at 1:30 and 3:30. | Independence Mine State Historical Park, 19 miles from Glenn Hwy. on Hatcher Pass Rd. | 99645 | 907/745–3975 | www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/indmine.htm | $5 tours | Visitor center early June–Labor Day, daily 11–7; grounds year-round. Guided tours start June 20, daily at 1 and 3. There is a day-use parking fee and a separate tour fee.

Musk Ox Farm.
Fifty or so animals roam at the Musk Ox Farm, which conducts 30-minute guided tours from May to September. There’s a hands-on museum and a gift shop featuring hand-knitted items made from the cashmere-like underfur (qiviut) combed from the musk ox. The scarves, caps, and more are made by Oomingmak, an Alaskan Native collective. | Mile 50.1, Glenn Hwy. | 99645 | 907/745–4151 | www.muskoxfarm.org | $9 | May–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–Apr., by appointment only.

Pyrah’s Pioneer Peak Farm.
On a sunny day the town of Palmer looks like a Swiss calendar photo, with its old barns and log houses silhouetted against craggy Pioneer Peak. On nearby farms (on the Bodenburg Loop off the old Palmer Highway) you can pay to pick your own raspberries and other fruits and vegetables. The peak picking time at Pyrah’s Pioneer Peak Farm, which cultivates 35 kinds of fruits and vegetables, occurs around mid-July. | Mile 2.6, Bodenburg Loop | 99645 | 907/745–4511 | www.pppfarm.net.

Where to Stay in Palmer

Colony Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | All guest rooms in this lovingly restored historic building are tastefully decorated with antiques and quilts. The building was used as a women’s dormitory during the farm colonization of the 1930s. The small café ($–$$) serves lunch and dinner. Be sure to try one of the homemade pies; the recipes have won blue ribbons at the Alaska State Fair. Inn reservations and check-in are handled at the Valley Hotel at 606 South Alaska Street. Pros: quiet; charming; centrally located. Cons: front desk a five-minute walk away at Valley Hotel; rooms are small. TripAdvisor: “historic location,” “a unique space,” “lots of character.” | Rooms from: $110 | 325 E. Elmwood Ave. | 99645 | 907/745–3330 | 12 rooms.

Hatcher Pass Lodge.
$ | B&B/INN | This lodge has spectacular views and can serve as a base camp for hiking, berry-picking, and—in fall and winter—skiing. Most rooms and cabins have queen-size beds. Three dormer-style rooms provide cozy accommodations for one or two guests. The cabins, some with lofts, are carpeted and have large picture windows with views of Hatcher Pass Valley. The cabins’ half baths have chemical toilets and water coolers; showers are in the lodge. The restaurant’s continental menu includes fondues, halibut, and pizzas. The bar serves cappuccinos and hot buttered rum for chilly nights. Pros: views and nature right out your door. Cons: no kitchens and a bit far from town, so dining options are limited. TripAdvisor: “amazing view,” “the real Alaska,” “delightful escape.” | Rooms from: $100 | Mile 17, Hatcher Pass Rd., Box 763 | 99645 | 907/745–5897, 907/745–1200 | www.hatcherpasslodge.com | 3 rooms, 9 cabins with shared showers.

Wasilla

42 miles north of Anchorage, 10 miles west of Palmer.

Wasilla made national news in 2008 when Sarah Palin, the former governor of the state and resident and former mayor of the town, was picked to be the Republican vice presidential candidate. Wasilla is one of the valley’s original pioneer communities, and over time has served as a supply center for farmers, gold miners, and mushers. Today fast-food restaurants and strip malls line the Parks Highway. TIP It’s the best place for stocking up if you’re heading north to Talkeetna or Denali. Rolling hills and more scenic vistas can be found by wandering the area’s back roads.

Getting Here and Around

Wasilla is accessible by car. Going north along the Glenn Highway, turn off just before Palmer and head west. Not far from there you’ll come across the sleepy town of Wasilla. It’s not known for glamour or beauty, but strolling through town you’ll find some quaint shops and quiet streets that make for great, character-rich photographs.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Wasilla Chamber of Commerce.
415 E. Railroad Ave. | 99654 | 907/376–1299 | www.wasillachamber.org.

Exploring Wasilla

Iditarod Trail Headquarters.
The Iditarod Trail Headquarters displays dogsleds, mushers’ clothing, and trail gear, and you can catch video highlights of past races. The gift shop sells Iditarod items. Dog-sled rides are available year-round; in summer rides on wheels are available for $10. | Mile 2.2, Knik Rd. | 99654 | 907/376–5155 | www.iditarod.com | Free | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 8–7; mid-Sept.–mid-May, weekdays 8–5 (during week of Fur Rondy, open daily).

Museum of Alaska Transportation and Industry.
On a 20-acre site, the Museum of Alaska Transportation and Industry exhibits some of the machines that helped develop Alaska, from dogsleds to jet aircraft and everything in between. The Don Sheldon Building houses aviation artifacts as well as antique autos, trains, and photographic displays. There is also a snowmachine (Alaskan for snowmobile) exhibit. | From Parks Hwy., turn south onto Neuser Rd. at Mile 47, follow road ¾ mile to end | 99654 | 907/376–1211 | www.museumofalaska.org | $8 | May–Sept., daily 10–5; Sept.–May, Tues. 10–2.

Where to Eat in Wasilla

Cadillac Café.
$ | AMERICAN | Hearty fare fills the menu at this diner-style café, including homemade pies; big, juicy burgers; exotic pizzas turned out of a stone, wood-fired oven; and Southwestern-style Mexican food. The owner describes the decor as “Alaska minimalist,” but the booths are plush and comfortable, and hand-rubbed wood is evident. Breakfast is served only on weekends. | Average main: $10 | Mile 49, Parks Hwy. at Pittman St., in the Tesoro Bldg. | 99654 | 907/357–5533.

Evangelo’s Restaurant.
$$ | ITALIAN | The food is good and the servings are ample at this spacious local favorite on the Parks Highway. Try the garlic-sautéed shrimp in a white-wine butter sauce or a mammoth calzone. The pizzas are loaded with goodies, and a salad bar provides a fresh selection. | Average main: $15 | Mile 40, Parks Hwy. | 99654 | 907/376–1212.

Where to Stay in Wasilla

Best Western Lake Lucille Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | This well-maintained resort on Lake Lucille provides easy access to several recreational activities, including boating in summer and ice-skating and snowmobiling in winter. Half of the inn’s bright and cheery rooms have private balconies overlooking the lake. Pros: beautiful lakefront property. Cons: the sound of powerboats whizzing by. TripAdvisor: “nice accommodation,” “beautiful view,” “good room.” | Rooms from: $170 | 1300 W. Lake Lucille Dr., Mile 43.5, Parks Hwy. | 99654 | 907/373–1776, 800/528–1234 | www.bestwesternlakelucilleinn.com | 50 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

Pioneer Ridge Bed and Breakfast Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Each of the spacious, log-partitioned rooms in the converted old Fairview Dairy barn and award-winning inn is decorated according to a theme. The Denali Room has posters of the mountain, snowshoes, crampons, and other climbing gear. A dogsled and other race paraphernalia mark the Iditarod Room. A rooftop common room has a spectacular 360-degree panorama of the mountains and river valleys. Pros: cozy and warm; views you can’t stop staring at. Cons: not handicapped-friendly—although it’s only one story, the hotel has many steps. TripAdvisor: “welcoming retreat,” “the best,” “rustic elegance.” | Rooms from: $99 | 2221 Yukon Circle, HC31, Box 5083K | 99654 | 907/376–7472, 800/478–7472 | www.pioneerridge.com | 1 suite; 1 cabin; 4 rooms with private baths; 1 room with separate, unshared bath | Closed Sept.–May | Breakfast.

Talkeetna

56 miles north of Wasilla, 112 miles north of Anchorage.

Talkeetna lies at the end of a spur road near Mile 99 of the Parks Highway. The town maintains a Wild West vibe with a small, unpaved downtown area surrounding a central green. Lucky is the traveler who gets a few sunny days—Denali looms over the town, begging you to take dramatic photos. Mountaineers congregate here to begin their assaults on Mt. McKinley in Denali National Park; those just off the mountain are recognizable by their tanned faces with sunglasses lines. The Denali mountain rangers have their climbing headquarters here, as do most glacier pilots who fly climbing parties to the mountain. A carved pole at the town cemetery honors deceased mountaineers.

Exploring Talkeetna

Talkeetna Historical Society Museum.
The Talkeetna Historical Society Museum, across from the Fairview Inn, explores the history of Mt. McKinley climbs. The museum has a scale model of Mt. McKinley and features information on the history of climbing attempts on the continent’s highest peak. A Talkeetna walking-tour map points out sites of historical interest. | Mile 14.5, Talkeetna Spur and D St. | 99676 | 907/733–2487 | www.talkeetnahistoricalsociety.org | $3 | May 15–Sept. 15, daily 10–6.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Boating, Floating, and Fishing

Mahay’s Riverboat Service.
Mahay’s Riverboat Service conducts scenic jet-boat tours and guided fishing charters on the Susitna and Talkeetna rivers. | 907/733–2223, 800/736–2210 | www.mahaysriverboat.com.

Tri-River Charters.
Tri-River Charters operates fishing trips out of Talkeetna and on the nearby Deshka River, and can provide all the necessary tackle and gear. | 907/733–2400 | www.tririvercharters.com.

Flightseeing

Talkeetna Aero Services.
Take a twin-engine aerial tour of the mountain. It’s the only service that actually flies over the summit of McKinley (weather allowing). | 907/683–2899 Denali, 888/733-2899 | www.talkeetnaaero.com.

Talkeetna Air Taxi.
Check out McKinley and environs, then swoop down to a glacier to test your boots. Maybe even land on one | 907/733–2218, 800/533–2219 | www.talkeetnaair.com.

Hiking

Alaska Mountaineering School.
Whether it’s on mountaineering expeditions to McKinley or less extreme treks into the Alaska Range, this Talkeetna company takes the time to train you before heading out to glacier trek or hit the pristine backcountry. | 907/733–1016 | www.climbalaska.org.

The First to Summit Mt. McKinley

Between 1903 and 1912 eight expeditions walked the slopes of 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley. But none had reached the absolute top of North America’s highest peak. Thus the stage was set for Hudson Stuck, a self-described American amateur mountaineer.

Stuck came to Alaska in 1904, drawn not by mountains but by a missionary calling. As the Episcopal Church’s archdeacon for the Yukon River region, he visited Native villages year-round. His passion for climbing was unexpectedly rekindled in 1906, when he saw from afar the “glorious, broad, massive uplift” of McKinley, the “father of mountains.”

Five years after that wondrous view, Stuck pledged to reach McKinley’s summit—or at least try. For his climbing party he picked three Alaskans experienced in snow and ice travel, though not in mountaineering: Harry Karstens, a well-known explorer and backcountry guide who would later become the first superintendent of Mt. McKinley National Park; Robert Tatum, Stuck’s missionary assistant; and Walter Harper, part Native, who served as Stuck’s interpreter.

Assisted by two sled-dog teams, the group began its expedition on St. Patrick’s Day, 1913, at Nenana, a village 90 miles northeast of McKinley. A month later they began their actual ascent of the great peak’s northern side, via the Muldrow Glacier. The glacier’s surface proved to be a maze of crevasses, some of them wide chasms with no apparent bottom. Carefully working their way up-glacier, the climbers established a camp at 11,500 feet. From there the team chopped a staircase up several miles—and 3,000 vertical feet—of rock, snow, and ice. Their progress was delayed several times by high winds, heavy snow, and near-zero visibility.

By May 30 the climbers had reached the top of the ridge (later named in Karstens’ honor) and moved into a high glacial basin. Despite temperatures ranging from subzero to 21°F, they kept warm at night by sleeping on sheep and caribou skins and covering themselves with down quilts, camel’s-hair blankets, and a wolf robe.

On June 6 the team established its high camp at 18,000 feet. The following morning was bright, cloudless, and windy. Three of the climbers suffered headaches and stomach pains, but given the clear weather everyone agreed to make an attempt. They left camp at 5 am and by 1:30 pm stood within a few yards of McKinley’s summit. Harper, who had been leading all day, was the first to reach the top, soon followed by the others. After catching their breath, the teammates shook hands, said a prayer of thanks, made some scientific measurements, and reveled in their magnificent surroundings.

In his classic book The Ascent of Denali, Hudson Stuck later reflected, “There was no pride of conquest, no trace of that exultation of victory some enjoy upon the first ascent of a lofty peak, no gloating over good fortune that had hoisted us a few hundred feet higher than others who had struggled and been discomfited. Rather, was the feeling that a privileged communion with the high places of the earth had been granted.”

Where to Stay in Talkeetna

Swiss-Alaska Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Family-run since 1976, this rustic-style property is well known among those who come to fish in the Talkeetna, Susitna, and Chulitna rivers. Menu selections at the restaurant (¢–$$) include halibut, salmon, buffalo burgers, schnitzel, and the owner’s secret-recipe Swiss-style French toast. Pros: very quiet. Cons: about a half-mile from town, so some folks might want a car. TripAdvisor: “top notch fishing experience,” “the trip of a lifetime,” “very professional guide service.” | Rooms from: $100 | East Talkeetna, by boat launch | 99676 | 907/733–2424 | www.swissalaska.com | 20 rooms.

Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This luxury hotel has excellent views of Mt. McKinley as well as access to nature trails. Rooms are modern, in the style of an Alaskan lodge, and mountainside room upgrades are available. The Great Room has comfortable seating, a 46-foot river-rock fireplace in the center of the room, and an espresso bar. The tour desk can arrange flightseeing, river trips, or any other Alaska adventure you can imagine. Pros: the restaurant is the place to watch the sun set while you also gaze at Mt. McKinley. Cons: large and lacking personality. TripAdvisor: “fun and unique,” “beautiful resort,” “great service.” | Rooms from: $279 | Mile 12.5, Talkeetna Spur Rd. | 888/959–9590, 907/733-9500 | www.talkeetnalodge.com | 212 rooms, 3 suites.

Talkeetna Roadhouse.
$ | B&B/INN | This circa-1917 log roadhouse has a common sitting area and rooms in a variety of sizes, including a hostel-style bunk room with four beds ($21) and two rustic cabins ($99–$147). Rooms are very basic: bed, table, window, period. Sizable breakfasts—with sourdough pancakes from a 1902 starter and famous cinnamon rolls—are the order of the day at the restaurant (¢), along with soup, desserts, and pies, all made from scratch daily. It’s a popular place with locals and with climbers who use Talkeetna’s air taxis to reach Mt. McKinley. In winter the café is open only on weekends and evenings. Pros: this is true, down-home Alaska at its best. Cons: shared bath. TripAdvisor: “heart and soul of Talkeetna,” “wonderful Alaskan experience,” “great breakfast.” | Rooms from: $57 | 13550 E. Main St., Box 604 | 99676 | 907/733–1351 | www.talkeetnaroadhouse.com | 5 rooms, 2 cabins, share 5 baths.

Denali State Park

34 miles north of Talkeetna, 132 miles north of Anchorage.

Getting Here and Around

The George Parks Highway bisects Denali State Park and offers not only a majestic view of year-round snow-covered mountaintops, but also a mad array of wildlife. The highway is paved, but after the breakup of winter ice it tends to be riddled with potholes. It’s always wise when driving in Alaska to have at least one good spare tire.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Alaska State Parks, Mat-Su Area Office.
907/745–3975.

Exploring Denali State Park

Denali State Park.
Overshadowed by the larger and more charismatic Denali National Park and Preserve, “Little Denali,” or Denali State Park, offers excellent access, beautiful views of Mt. McKinley, scenic campgrounds, and prime wilderness hiking and backpacking opportunities within a few miles of the road system. Between the Talkeetna Mountains and the Alaska Range, Denali State Park combines wooded lowlands and forested foothills topped by alpine tundra.

Outdoor Activities

Curry-Kesugi Ridge.
The park’s chief attraction, other than views of McKinley, is the 35-mile-long Curry-Kesugi Ridge, which forms a rugged spine through the heart of the park that is ideal backpacking terrain. The initial climb to get to the ridge is strenuous, but once you get up high, it’s mostly gentle up-and-down terrain. The trail runs from the Troublesome Creek trailhead at Mile 137.3 to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at Mile 163.9. The Byers Lake campground at Mile 147 has a trailhead for a spur trail that intersects the Kesugi Ridge trail, offering an alternative to hiking the entire trail. Views of Mt. McKinley and the Alaska Range from the ridge trail are stunning. TIP This is a bear-intensive area, especially the Troublesome Creek area in late summer when the salmon runs are in full force.

Denali Backcountry Lodge.
For lovers of outdoor activities like naturalist hikes and mountain biking, Denali Backcountry Lodge offers the complete wilderness package. | 877/223-6254 | www.denalilodge.com.

Peters Hills.
Another destination favored by backcountry travelers is the Peters Hills, accessible from Petersville Road in Trapper Creek. Denali State Park borders the hills, and primitive trails and campgrounds are used year-round. It’s especially popular with snowmachiners in winter and mountain bikers in summer.

Where to Stay in Denali State Park

Alaska State Parks Cabins.
$ | Three public-use cabins are in Denali State Park, along the shores of Byers Lake. One cabin is on a gravel road, 1 mile from the highway, and the other two are accessible by canoe or by a 1/2-mile walk-in trail. All are equipped with bunks to sleep six, woodstove, table, and benches. Pros: more accessible than most wilderness cabins. Cons: very basic; no running water or electricity. | Rooms from: $45 | 907/269–8400 | dnr.alaska.gov/parks/cabins/matsu.htm | 3 cabins | No credit cards.

McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | When the sky is clear and Mt. McKinley is visible, this lodge has excellent views of North America’s highest peak, especially from the lobby, which has a large stone fireplace.On private land inside Denali State Park, this hillside lodge overlooks the Chulitna River. You stay in bungalow-style guest rooms with separate sitting rooms. The tour desk can arrange any kind of tour. Pros: clean; with everything you might need. Cons: huge; somewhat bland. TripAdvisor: “beautiful setting,” “nice views,” “pleasant and attractive.” | Rooms from: $149 | Mile 133, Parks Hwy. | Trapper Creek | 99683 | 907/733–2900, 800/426–0500 | www.princesslodges.com | 460 rooms, 4 suites | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May.

Glenallen and the Wrangells

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Glennallen

187 miles northeast of Anchorage.

This community of a few more than 500 residents is the gateway to Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve. It’s 124 miles from Glennallen to McCarthy, the last 58 miles on unpaved gravel. It is also the service center for the Copper River Basin and is a fly-in base for several wilderness outfitters.

Getting Here and Around

The Glenn Highway from Anchorage to Glennallen is relatively well maintained all year round. The town’s main street, however, is sand and gravel.

Essentials

Medical Assistance

Crossroads Medical Center.
Mile 187.5, Glenn Hwy. | 99588 | 907/822–3203 | www.crossroadmc.com.

Visitor Information

Bureau of Land Management.
907/822–3217 | www.glennallen.ak.blm.gov.

Where to Stay in Glennallen

Caribou Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Mauve and sea-green rooms fill this modern hotel. Two-bedroom suites are available and offer a very chic contrast to the pair of rustic cabins that are also available; the latter are primarily for those who want to get a taste of living in the Bush. The Annex, historic because of its past life as housing for pipeline workers, has rooms with shared bath. Pros: several rooms have hot tubs. Cons: some rooms have shared bath. TripAdvisor: “helpful staff,” “good location,” “good accommodation.” | Rooms from: $149 | Mile 186.5, Glenn Hwy. | 907/822–3302, 800/478–3302 | www.caribouhotel.com | 83 rooms, 63 with bath; 3 suites; 2 cabins.

Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve

77 miles southeast of Glennallen, 264 miles east of Anchorage.

Getting Here and Around

The park is accessible from Alaska’s highway system, via one of two gravel roads. The unpaved Nabesna Road leaves the Glenn Highway–Tok Cutoff at the village of Slana and takes you 45 miles into the park’s northern foothills. The better-known route is McCarthy Road, which stretches 60 miles as it follows an old railroad bed from Chitina to the Kennicott River. TIP Before setting out on McCarthy Road, make sure both you and your car are prepared. Your car should be equipped with a working jack and a properly inflated spare tire, or else potholes, old railroad ties, and occasional railroad spikes may leave you stranded. At the end of the road you must park and cross the river via a footbridge.

Limited services are available in the end-of-the-road town of McCarthy. Facilities include guest lodges, a B&B, and a restaurant. There’s no gas station or post office.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Wrangell–St. Elias Parks Office.
Mile 106.8, Richardson Hwy. | 907/822–5234 | www.nps.gov/wrst.

Exploring Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve

Kennicott Mine.
The nearby abandoned Kennicott Mine is one of the park’s main visitor attractions. The open pit mine is reminiscent of ancient Greek amphitheatres, and the abandoned structures are as impressive as the mountains they stand against.

Malaspina Glacier.
The park’s coastal mountains are frequently wreathed in snow-filled clouds, their massive height making a giant wall that contains the great storms brewed in the Gulf of Alaska. As a consequence, they bear some of the continent’s largest ice fields, with more than 100 glaciers radiating from them. One of these, the Malaspina Glacier, is 1,500 square miles—larger than the state of Rhode Island. This tidewater glacier has an incredible pattern of black-and-white stripes made by the other glaciers that coalesced to form it. TIP Look for Malaspina Glacier on the coast north of Yakutat if you fly between Juneau and Anchorage.

Mt. St. Elias.
The white-iced spire of Mt. St. Elias, in the St. Elias Range, reaches more than 18,000 feet. It’s the fourth-tallest mountain on the North American continent and the crown of the planet’s highest coastal range.

Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
In a land of many grand and spectacularly beautiful mountains, those in the 9.2-million-acre Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve are possibly the finest of them all. This extraordinarily compact cluster of immense peaks belongs to four different mountain ranges. Rising through many ecozones, the Wrangell–St. Elias Park and Preserve is largely undeveloped wilderness parkland on a grand scale. The area is perfect mountain-biking and primitive-hiking terrain, and the rivers invite rafting for those with expedition experience. The mountains attract climbers from around the world; most of them fly in from Glennallen or Yakutat.

Ecotourism in Alaska

Ecotourists aim to travel responsibly. Typically, ecotourism is on a smaller scale and involves more education than traditional tourism; often you are led by guides who know the local natural history and cultures. Itineraries allow you a closer connection to the areas explored. As one Alaska guide says, “Slow down, take a deep breath, feel where you are.” The International Ecotourism Society (www.ecotourism.org) is a great resource.

When contacting outfitters, learn about the guides, the nature of the activities they offer, and the area you want to explore. Also be sure to determine how well the guides know the area and how long the company has been in operation. Make it a point to ask for references.

Alaska Travel Industry Association.
A state-produced Alaska Vacation Planner (which also contains information on ecotourism) can be obtained from the Alaska Travel Industry Association. | 907/929–2842, 800/862–5275 to order vacation planners | www.travelalaska.com.

Alaska Wilderness Recreation and Tourism Association.
The Alaska Wilderness Recreation and Tourism Association can provide information on many businesses and activities across the state. | 907/258–3171 | www.awrta.org.

Wrangells.
Covering a 100-mile by 70-mile area, the Wrangells tower above the 2,500-foot-high Copper River Plateau, and the peaks of Mts. Jarvis, Drum, Blackburn, Sanford, and Wrangell rise 15,000 feet to 16,000 feet from sea level.

Outdoor Activities and Guided Tours

Adventure Tours

St. Elias Alpine Guides.
Based in the town of McCarthy and operating for over three decades, this guide outfit gives introductory mountaineering lessons, leads excursions ranging from half-day glacier walks to monthlong backpacking trips, and is the only company contracted by the Park Service to conduct guided tours of historic Kennicott buildings. If you’d rather raft than hike, its Copper Oar rafting outfit (www.copperoar.com) has river trips into the heart of the wilderness. | 907/345–9048, 888/933–5427 | www.steliasguides.com.

Where to Stay in Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve

Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | At the gateway to the park, this lodge has views of the Wrangell–St. Elias mountain range and the Copper and Klutina rivers. A wall of windows two stories high provides dramatic views of towering peaks and the Copper River. Dark-wood accents and Alaska wildlife and scenery prints adorn each room, conveying the ambience of a well-appointed hunting lodge. Pros: luxurious lodge in the wilderness. Cons: little else nearby in the way of amenities. TripAdvisor: “rustic lodge,” “very comfortable room,” “a super place to relax and rejuvenate.” | Rooms from: $139 | Brenwick Craig Rd., Mile 102, Richardson Hwy. | Copper Center | 99573 | 800/426–0500 reservations | www.princesslodges.com | 85 rooms | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May.

Kennicott Glacier Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | Artifacts and photos of the era when mining was the main order of business in the ghost town of Kennicott adorn the small rooms in this modern wood lodge. Transportation to the lodge and three daily meals are included in the price. Fresh-baked goods are favorites at the buffet breakfast. Sit-down lunches are served, or you can request a sack lunch to take with you. Dinner is a “wilderness gourmet” spread served family style. The front desk can arrange glacier trekking, flightseeing, rafting, and alpine hiking for additional fees. A vacation package that includes room and all meals is available. The lodge provides a shuttle from the end of the road in McCarthy. Pros: lots of character; delicious food. Cons: some rooms have shared bath. TripAdvisor: “way off the beaten path,” “superlatives fall short,” “pristine.” | Rooms from: $205 | 5 miles from McCarthy | 907/258–2350, 800/582–5128 | www.kennicottlodge.com | 35 rooms, 10 with bath | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May.

Ultima Thule Outfitters.
$$$$ | RESORT | This remote fly-in-only lodge on the Chitina River in Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve provides a wonderful chance to experience an “air-safari adventure.” The cost is $1,500 per person per day, with a four-day minimum. Included in your stay are breathtaking flightseeing, rafting, climbing, hiking, fishing, mushing, and skiing excursions. Three generations of the family make their home here, and their knowledge of the area is unsurpassed. The family-style meals include local fish, game, and vegetables from the garden as well as homemade bread, pies, and cakes. Oak floors, wallpaper, wood-burning stoves, and brass beds provide the comforts of home, Bavarian style. Pros: adventure and comfort at their best. Cons: four-night minimum means it will be an expensive venture. | Rooms from: $1700 | 907/688–1200 | www.ultimathulelodge.com | 6 cabins | No credit cards | All meals | Rooms from: $1700 | www.ultimathulelodge.com.

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