People often despair of their skill in pastry-making or – as they say – lack of skill. Often they have persuaded themselves they will never be successful. That is not true. It is good to have cool hands for handling pastry: if yours are inclined to be hot then run ice cold water over them and your wrists before beginning. Keep utensils and the kitchen cool, give yourself adequate time to prepare the pastry but, at the same time, handle it as quickly and lightly as possible. Follow the proportions given in classic recipes and you will soon notice an improvement in your pastry making.
The section begins with a recipe for home-made bread, which includes information on using the modern easy-type of dried yeast that is mixed with the flour. The wonderful smell of bread cooking rewards you for any effort made. If you have never made bread before do not think it is very time-consuming. You certainly must wait for it to rise (or prove) but you can plan to do other things while this is happening. If you have a microwave you could hasten this process. You do, however, have to use the microwave with enormous care to make sure the dough does not become too hot – if it does you destroy the ability of the yeast to make the dough rise. Do check most carefully with your manufacturer’s handbook about the timing and setting for your microwave.
Light scones are always a delight. Years ago there was a music hall song which had a line ‘and don’t dilly dally on the way’. That should be the motto of scone makers. Mix them quickly (make sure the dough is sufficiently soft), handle them quickly and bake for a short time in a hot oven. When cold, serve them with whipped or clotted, cream and jam to give friends and family a real West Country Cream Tea. If you enjoy yeast cookery, then you will find a recipe for real Cornish Splits on page 270.
Oven temperatures are very important in baking. It must be remembered that ovens do vary quite a lot. The Victoria Sandwich recipe (see page 285) is a very good one by which you can judge your oven. If the cake is cooked in the time and at the temperature given, then your oven is average. If it takes quite a little longer to cook you may get better results if you raise the temperature slightly.
Users of fan ovens must reduce heat for most baking and other forms of cookery by 10°C/25°F.
If you have a solid range, always consult the manufacturer’s handbook to ascertain which oven to use. There are differences between various models so general advice is not particularly helpful.
Yes, baking does take time and trouble but it is infinitely rewarding.
Home-Made Bread
Cooking time: 45 minutes 
Makes 1 loaf
If you have never cooked with yeast before, it is a good idea to make a small amount of bread first. The following method is the classic one, using fresh yeast, which you can obtain from health food shops. The method using the easy type, which is added to flour, is explained afterwards. Choose strong (hard wheat) flour, which gives a better rise and texture to bread. Plain flour could be substituted.
Proportions to use: 15 g/½ oz (½ cake) fresh yeast; approximately 300 ml/½ pint (1¼ cups) water; 450 g/1 lb (4 cups) flour and 1 level teaspoon salt. If you add 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons) of butter, you have a more moist loaf.
Adding the yeast: put the yeast into a basin. Warm the water until it is just blood heat, i.e. 37 to 43°C/98 to 108°F. Blend with the yeast. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl, rub in the fat if using. Make a well in the centre of the flour and add the yeast and water. Blend well with a knife and then with your fingers. If the dough seems dry add a little more water; if too sticky to handle add a little more flour. Different makes of flour absorb different amounts of water. The dough should be soft but leave the mixing bowl clean.
Kneading: turn the ball of soft dough on to a floured surface; knead until smooth. This means stretching the dough by pushing and then folding with the base of the hand (known as the heel). This is very important as it distributes the yeast evenly. To test if sufficiently kneaded, press with the tip of a floured finger. If the impression stays then knead a little more. When sufficiently kneaded the impression comes out. Return the dough to the bowl and cover with a cloth or put it into a very large, lightly oiled polythene bag. It must have room to double in size.
Proving: leave in a warm place until just double the size, this takes about 1½ to 2 hours at room temperature but less in a warm airing cupboard or similar place.
Do not over-knead the dough or let it rise any more than described.
Knocking back: turn the dough on to the floured surface again and knead as before.
Preparing for baking: grease a 900 g/2 lb loaf tin. Shape the dough to fit the tin. Cover the tin and prove again until the dough has almost doubled in size.
Baking: preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Bake the loaf for 45 minutes.
Testing: take the loaf out of the tin and knock the base. If cooked the bread sounds hollow. Place on a wire cooling tray. Using dried yeast: modern dried yeast can be added to the flour. Follow the instructions, which may suggest slightly warmer water is used than given above. When the water is added, knead as above and then follow the packet directions.
Different Types of Bread
Cooking time: 45 minutes Makes 1 loaf
All these breads are based on the recipe on page 267. The baking time is very similar.
Apple Bread
Follow the proportions in the recipe on page 267 but substitute either apple juice or a thin apple purée for the water. The purée can be sweetened with a little sugar or honey. About 50 g/2 oz (⅓ cup) sultanas can be added to the flour.
Brown Bread
Follow the recipe on page 267 but use half white and half wholemeal strong (hard wheat) flours. You will find the wholemeal flour absorbs a little more liquid than all white flour.
Cheese Bread
Follow the recipe on page 267 and allow the dough to prove. Add 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) of grated Cheddar or Cheshire cheese to the dough. Mix well, then knock back as the recipe. 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) chopped parsley or mixed herbs can be added to the flour and salt, with freshly ground black pepper and a little mustard.
Fruit Bread
Follow the recipe on page 267 but add up to 100 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) mixed dried fruit to the flour. Do not exceed this amount as the proportion of yeast in the recipe would be inadequate to make the dough rise.
Milk Bread
Use warm milk in the bread recipe on page 267 instead of water. This is very pleasant for a Fruit Bread, as above. To make a sweet bread, add up to 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) caster sugar to the flour.
Oatmeal Bread
Omit 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) of flour in the bread recipe on page 267 and add the same amount of oatmeal. When the dough is in the tin waiting to prove, brush the top with milk and sprinkle rolled oats on this.
Wholemeal Bread
Use strong (hard wheat) wholemeal flour instead of white flour in the recipe on page 267. This flour absorbs slightly more liquid and takes a little longer to cook. The bread looks attractive if brushed with milk before baking.
Aberdeen Softies
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes makes 12
Metric Imperial 
Ingredients 
American
450 g/1 lb 
flour, etc. 
(as page 267) 4 cups
75 g/3 oz butter ⅜ cup
25 g/1 oz caster sugar 2 tablespoons
Make the basic bread dough as the recipe on page 267. Allow this to prove and then knead until smooth again. Melt the butter. Return the dough to a bowl and work in the butter and sugar. When thoroughly mixed tip on to a floured board and knead again. Form into 12 round portions. Put on to a lightly greased baking tray. Allow to prove once more until nearly double in size (this takes about 25 minutes). Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until well risen and firm.
Lardy Cake
Cooking time: 35 to 40 minutes Makes 1 cake
This is an ‘old-fashioned’ cake with a flaky texture, made by incorporating lard into the dough in the same way as one does in flaky pastry. Prepare the bread dough (see page 267), knead it until smooth, let it prove, then knock it back as described. This cake is not traditional to any one part of Britain; when country cooks made bread many used part of the dough for the cake. As a child I was shown how to make it by an aunt who lived in the Forest of Dean. You can add 75 g/3 oz (½ cup) currants with the lard and sugar. Butter can be substituted for lard; this does not give the traditional flavour but it makes a very good yeast cake.
To make the cake: you need the bread dough made as page 267 and 100 g/4 oz (½ cup) of lard, 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) caster sugar and 1 teaspoon mixed spice.
Roll out the bread dough to a neat oblong. Divide the lard into small portions and add half the lard, half the sugar and half the spice to the top half of the oblong of dough. Bring the part of the dough without lard up to cover the top half. Seal the edges of the dough turn at right angles and roll out to an oblong again. Repeat the process with the rest of the lard, sugar and spice.
Fold and roll twice more, without adding lard, etc., then form into a neat round. Place on a baking sheet or tray. Mark the top in a criss-cross pattern with a knife and allow to prove until well risen. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7 and bake for 25 minutes, then lower the heat to 190°C/375°F, Gas Mark 5 and cook for a further 10 to 15 minutes. Serve when freshly made.
Cornish Splits
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes 12 to 16
One of the pleasures of visiting Devon and Cornwall are the delicious cream teas which provide an opportunity to taste the famous clotted cream of the West Country. These yeast-based soft sweet rolls are the genuine splits but nowadays you may find you are served light scones, such as those on page 278, instead. Similar rolls are a feature of Devon teas, often known as Chudleighs. These tend to be slightly smaller than the Cornish version.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
20 g/¾ oz fresh yeast ¾ cake
300 ml/½ pint milk or half milk and half water 1¼ cups
450 g/1 lb strong flour 4 cups
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1 teaspoon
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster sugar, or to taste ¼ cup
Cream the yeast. Warm the liquid until tepid then pour over the yeast. Add a sprinkling of flour and leave in a warm place until the surface is covered with bubbles. Meanwhile, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Rub in the butter and add the sugar and then the yeast liquid. Knead until smooth then return to the bowl, cover and allow to prove until double in size. Turn out on to a lightly floured board, knead again until smooth (known as ‘knocking back’ the dough).
Either divide into 12 to 16 portions and form these into round balls or roll out the dough until approximately 2.5 cm/1 inch in thickness and cut into rounds. Place on 1 to 2 lightly greased baking trays and allow to prove once more.
Meanwhile preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Bake the splits for 12 to 15 minutes until well risen and pale golden in colour. Serve cold with clotted cream and jam.
Using Dried Yeasts
There is more than one form of dried yeast. The most popular is the type which is not creamed or mixed with liquid but added to the flour. Follow the direction for quantity given on the packet.
A second type of dried yeast is one in which you do need to blend it with liquid and it is generally recommended that a little sugar is added to the mixture.
To each 25 g/1 oz (1 cake) fresh yeast allow just 15 g/½ oz (1 level tablespoon) dried yeast. Blend 1 teaspoon sugar with the tepid liquid, add the dried yeast. You can add a sprinkling of flour. Allow to stand until the surface is covered in bubbles It takes a little longer for this to happen than when using fresh yeast.
Singing Hinnies
Cooking time: 8 to 10 minutes Makes 10 to 12
This is a Northumberland scone, the word ‘hinnie’ is a term of affection in that part of England. The reason given for the strange name is because the teacakes give a definite singing sound as they cook.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb plain flour 4 cups
pinch salt pinch
scant ¾ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda scant ¾ teaspoon
scant l½ teaspoons cream of tartar scant 1½ teaspoons
100 g/4 oz lard or butter ½ cup
175 g/6 oz currants 1 cup
300 ml/½ pint milk 1¼ cups
Sift the flour, salt, bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar once or twice. Rub in nearly all the lard or butter; save a little to grease the griddle. Add the currants and then the milk to make a fairly firm rolling consistency. Roll out the dough on a floured surface until 8 mm and 1.5 cm/⅓ to ½ inch thick.
Cut into large rounds. Preheat and lightly grease the griddle. Test by shaking on a little flour, it should turn golden within 1 minute. Cook the cakes for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden on the under side, then turn and cook for the same time on the second side. Wrap in a clean cloth, to keep the scones soft, and place on a wire cooling tray. Split and serve with butter.
Crumpets
Cooking time: 6 minutes Makes about 8
These are made with a yeast batter using plain, rather than strong, flour.
Heat 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) milk with 15 g/½ oz (1 tablespoon) butter. Allow to cool until just blood heat, i.e. 37-43°C/98-108°F, then blend with 7 g/¼ oz (¼ cake) fresh yeast.
Sift 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) plain flour with a pinch of salt into a bowl. Add the yeast liquid and beat well until a very smooth mixture. Allow to prove for about 45 minutes, or until the batter has doubled in bulk.
Grease and heat a griddle. To test if it is the right heat shake on a little flour. This should turn golden in 1 minute. You can drop spoonfuls of the batter on to the griddle but to make well-shaped crumpets you need proper crumpet rings (pastry cutters could be used). Spoon the batter into the rings, cook for 3 minutes, turn over and cook for the same time on the second side.
Soda Bread
Cooking time: 14 to 30 minutes, see method Makes 1 loaf
There is a wealth of excellent breads made in Ireland, but soda bread is the best known and unequalled for its light texture. Buttermilk is an asset but not essential, see under variations.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb plain white flour 4 cups
or half white and half wholemeal flour for brown soda bread
½ to 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda ½ teaspoon
½ teaspoon cream of tartar ½ teaspoon
300 ml/½ pint butter milk, or as much as required 1¼ cups
Sift the dry ingredients together. Add sufficient buttermilk to make a soft dough, but one that can be kneaded. Flours vary slightly in the amount of liquid they absorb. Turn on to a lightly floured board and knead until smooth.
To cook on a griddle: form into a round 6 to 8 mm/¼ to ⅓ inch in thickness. Mark into quarters (known as ‘farls’). Do not cut right through the bread. Heat a griddle but do not grease this. To test shake on a little flour, it should turn golden in 1½ to 2 minutes. Cook the bread for 6 to 7 minutes, or until firm on the under side, turn and cook on the second side for the same time.
To bake in the oven preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Form the dough into a round 2.5 to 3.5 cm/1 to 1½ inches in thickness. Mark into ‘farls’. Place on an ungreased baking sheet and cook for 30 minutes; reduce the heat slightly towards the end of the cooking time if the bread is becoming too brown. Soda bread should be pale in colour. Wrap in a cloth after baking to keep the bread soft.
Variations:
Rub 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons) lard or butter into the flour.
If buttermilk is unavailable use skimmed milk and 1 teaspoon cream of tartar.
Bake the bread the traditional way. Press the dough into a well greased, very strong cake tin. Cover and bake as above but allow a little longer.
Fruit Soda bread
Add 75 g/3 oz (½ cup) mixed dried fruit or sultanas with 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) sugar to the dry ingredients before mixing with the buttermilk.
Treacle Soda Bread
Blend 1½ tablespoons (2 tablespoons) black treacle with the buttermilk. Add 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons) sugar to the flour. Dried fruit could be added to this bread.
Barm Brack
Cooking time: 1¼ hours Makes 1 loaf
This famous Irish speckled bread is generally eaten at Hallowe’en. Often a wedding ring, wrapped in paper, was baked in the bread. The legend stated that whoever had the slice containing the ring would be engaged by the end of the year. Barm is the froth that forms on the top of fermenting malt liquors and was used instead of yeast in the past. Today yeast is the ingredient used to raise the dough.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
20 g/¾ oz fresh yeast ¾ cake
250 ml/8 fl oz milk 1 cup
450 g/1 lb plain flour 4 cups
1 teaspoon grated or ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon
100 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
2 teaspoons caraway seeds 2 teaspoons
175 g/6 oz butter ¾ cup
100 g/4 oz mixed crystallized peel ¼ lb
225 g/8 oz currants 1¼ cups
225 g/8 oz raisins 1¼ cups
3 eggs 3
Cream the yeast. Warm the milk until just tepid then pour over the yeast. Add a sprinkling of flour and leave in a warm place until the surface is covered with bubbles.
Sift the rest of the flour with the nutmeg, add the sugar and caraway seeds. Melt the butter and chop the peel. Blend the yeast liquid with the flour, add the butter and the rest of the ingredients. Beat the mixture for a short time then turn out on to a lightly floured board and knead until smooth.
Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a cloth and level to prove for approximately 1½ hours or until just double in size. Knock back the dough and knead again.
Grease a 23 cm/9 inch round cake tin. Press the dough into the tin, cover the top of the tin with a cloth to prevent a hard skin forming on the cake and allow to prove for approximately 50 minutes or until the dough has risen well in the tin.
Preheat the oven to 190 to 200°C/375 to 400°F, Gas Mark 5 to 6 and bake for 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3 and bake for a further 45 minutes or until firm to the touch. Turn out of the tin on to a wire cooling tray.
Note: details of using dried yeast instead of fresh yeast are on page 270.
Little Puddings
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes 12 to 15
These may be said to be the British equivalent of French brioche. Although they can be served hot as a pudding with jam or fruit, they are almost nicer as a sweet bread or cake.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
15 g/½ oz fresh yeast ½ cake
2 tablespoons water 2½ cakes
225 g/8 oz strong or plain flour 2 cups
pinch salt pinch
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cups
5 tablespoons double cream ½ cup
2 large eggs 2
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon
Cream the yeast. Heat the water to blood heat, i.e. 37 to 43°C/98 to 108°F, blend with the yeast. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl; add the sugar, the yeast liquid and the cream. Whisk the eggs and grated lemon zest. Add to the other ingredients and beat well until a smooth batter-like consistency forms. Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place for approximately 1 hour or until the dough is light and has risen to almost double the original size. Beat the mixture until it once again becomes like a batter.
Grease 12 to 15 dariole moulds (often called castle pudding tins) with a generous amount of butter. Half-fill these with the soft dough, do not over-fill for the mixture rises well. Place the tins on a baking tray so they are easy to handle in the oven. Put a sheet of oiled clingfilm or greaseproof paper over the tins and leave for approximately 20 to 30 minutes or until the dough has risen to the top of the tins. Remove the clingfilm.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F, Gas Mark 6 and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until well risen and firm. Allow to cool in the tins for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn out on to a wire cooling tray. Serve freshly baked as a bread or cake.
Variations:
Use grated orange zest instead of the lemon zest.
Omit the lemon zest and sift a little grated or ground nutmeg or ground ginger with the flour. These flavourings are particularly good when the puddings are served with hot apple purée.
Use 1½ level teaspoons dried yeast instead of the fresh yeast. Details of using dried yeast are on page 270.
Sally Lunns
Cooking time: 25 minutes Makes 2 to 3 teacakes
These are very famous teacakes, named after the lady who lived in Bath during the eighteenth century.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
15 g/½ oz fresh yeast ½ cake
150 ml/¼ pint milk, or milk and water ⅔ cup
350 g/12 oz strong (hard wheat) or plain flour 3 cups
pinch salt pinch
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
1 egg 1
Cream the yeast. Warm the milk, or milk and water, to blood heat, i.e. 37 to 43°C/98 to 108°F and blend with the yeast. Blend the flour and salt, rub in the butter then add the yeast liquid and the egg. Mix well, then turn on to a floured board and knead (see page 267). Allow to prove until double in size then knock back and divide into 2 or 3 rounds. Put these into 2 × 15 cm/6 inch greased sandwich tins or 3 × 12.5 cm/5 inch tins. Allow to prove again.
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7 and bake for 25 minutes. Split while warm and serve with butter.
Chelsea Buns
Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes Makes 9 to 12
Make the enriched dough as above, allow it to prove, then roll out to a large oblong shape on a floured surface about 1.5 to 2 cm/½ to ¾ inch in thickness.
Soften 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) butter and spread evenly over the dough. Sprinkle 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) caster sugar over the butter then add 100 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) mixed dried fruit with a pinch of ground cinnamon and a little grated nutmeg. Roll up the dough, like a Swiss roll; do this lightly for the dough will rise during the next proving. Cut into 9 to 12 portions.
Arrange these with the cut side uppermost in a lightly greased 23 to 25 cm/9 to 10 inch square tin, they should fit the tin tightly, so they keep a good shape in baking. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Blend 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) sugar with 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) boiling water. Brush this glaze over the buns when they come from the oven.
Scones
Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 12 to 18
Scones are made very quickly and they are excellent when fresh. They freeze well, so it is worthwhile making quite a large batch. Do not exceed the quantity of fat given in the recipe, for that does not improve the scone dough. Make sure the oven is preheated thoroughly before baking the scones.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz self-raising flour, but see method 2 cups
pinch salt pinch
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cup
150 ml/¼ pint milk ⅔ cup
Sift the flour and salt. If using plain flour, sift with 2½ teaspoons baking powder or with ½ teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda and 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar. Make sure the spoons are absolutely level; do not exceed these amounts.
Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar and milk to make a soft rolling consistency. Roll out until approximately 2 cm/¾ inch in thickness and cut into rounds. For an afternoon tea make about 18 very small ones. Put on to an ungreased baking tray. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Bake the scones for 10 minutes or until they feel firm when gently pressed at the sides.
Lift on to a cooling tray. Serve freshly baked with butter.
Variations:
Almond Scones: add 1 to 2 spoonfuls of finely chopped blanched almonds to the flour. Brush the scones with a little butter and top with nuts.
Cheese Scones: omit the sugar in the recipe above, sift a little mustard powder and a shake of freshly ground black pepper with the flour. Add 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) finely grated Cheddar or other cheese. Bind with an egg and a little less milk.
Cream Scones: mix the scones with single cream instead of milk, these do not rise quite as much but they are delicious.
Fruit Scones: add 50 g/2 oz (⅓ cup) currants, sultanas or chopped dates.
Treacle Scones: these are a great speciality in Scotland. Sift ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon and/or the same amount of mixed spice with the flour. Use only 25 g/l oz (2 tablespoons) sugar and add 1 to 2 tablespoons black treacle before adding the milk. You will need less milk than in the basic recipe. Bake as above but time the cooking carefully for these are inclined to scorch.
Jersey Wonders
Cooking time: 5 to 6 minutes Makes 12 to 15
These are one of the many traditional recipes in the Channel Islands. These fried cakes are light and crisp and not unlike European Crullers.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz self-raising flour or plain flour sifted with 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups
½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon
½ teaspoon grated or ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cup
2 small eggs – size 3 or 4 2
a little milk a little
To fry: oil or fat
To coat: caster sugar
Sift the flour and spices, rub in the butter, add the sugar. Beat the eggs, stir into the flour mixture, then add just sufficient milk to make a soft rolling consistency. Roll out to approximately 6 mm/¼ inch in thickness and cut into the desired shapes. These can be circles, fingers, or bows.
Heat the oil or fat to 175°C/350°F and drop the cakes into this gently, so their shapes are not impaired. Fry for 5 to 6 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the pan and drain on absorbent paper. Roll in caster sugar. Eat warm or when freshly made.
Doughnuts
Cooking time: 5 to 6 minutes Makes 12 to 15
Doughnuts have been made in England for centuries. The round shape is the most traditional.
Follow the recipe for enriched dough (see page 277) or plain bread dough (see page 267). Allow the dough to prove in bulk, then knock back as described in the recipes.
Knead well and form into small balls. Make a hole in the centre of each ball, fill with a little jam, then knead again to cover the jam with the dough. Place on lightly greased baking trays and allow to prove once more until nearly double in size.
Heat the oil or fat to 175°C/350°F and fry the balls until crisp and golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper and roll in sugar until evenly coated.
Gingerbread
Cooking time: 1¼ hours Makes 1 cake
Ginger in various forms was brought into this country by the East India Company. Preserved ginger has been appreciated since the eighteenth century and ground ginger has always been a favourite spice in Britain. Originally gingerbreads were, as the name suggests, breads that were sliced and spread with butter. Often the mixture would be baked in ornate moulds and, for special occasions, they were covered in gilt – hence the expression ‘the gilt on the gingerbread’ to denote a special advantage. Today a gingerbread is served as a cake, rather than a bread.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
175 g/6 oz butter, lard or cooking fat ¾ cup
110 g/4 oz moist brown sugar ⅔ cup
225 g/8 oz black treacle ⅔ cup
110 g/4 oz golden syrup ⅓ cup
350 g/12 oz plain flour 3 cups
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 1 teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon allspice, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
2 teaspoons ground ginger, or to taste 2 teaspoons
2 large eggs 2
2 tablespoons milk 3 tablespoons
150 ml/¼ pint water ⅔ cup
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2. Line a 20 cm/8 inch square or 23 cm/9 inch round cake tin with greased greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
Put the fat, sugar, treacle and syrup into a large saucepan, stir over a moderate heat until melted. Sift the flour with the bicarbonate of soda, allspice and ginger. Pour the melted ingredients over the flour then stir in the beaten eggs and milk and mix together.
Heat the water in the saucepan in which the fat was melted, stir to absorb any of the mixture left in the pan, then add to the other ingredients. Beat briskly to a smooth soft consistency. Spoon into the cake tin and bake for 1¼ hours or until firm to the touch. A fine wooden skewer inserted into the cake should come away quite clean. Cool in the tin; remove the paper or parchment. Store for several days before cutting.
Fruit and Almond Gingerbread
Use only 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) water in the recipe above and add 75 g/3 oz (¾ cup) blanched and chopped almonds and 75 g/3 oz (½ cup) raisins. Bake as the timing given above.
Choosing Apples
Although cooking apples, like a Bramley Seedling, are best in this particular apple cake, you have an interesting texture if you select an apple that is both good for dessert and for cooking as the pieces of apple are cooked but stay fairly firm.
Apple Cake
Cooking time: 1¼ hours Makes 1 cake
Every fruit-growing area in Britain boasts that their apple cake is best. This is an excellent cake from the West Country. It is good with Cheddar or other cheese.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
350 g/12 oz self-raising flour, or plain flour sifted with 3 teaspoons baking powder 3 cups
150 g/5 oz butter ⅝ cup
175 g/6 oz caster or light brown sugar ¾ cup
2 medium cooking apples 2
25 g/1 oz Demerara sugar 2 tablespoons
½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ to 1 teaspoon
1 egg 1
1 tablespoon milk 1¼ tablespoons
For the topping:
2 tablespoons caster sugar 3 tablespoons
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F, Gas Mark 4. Grease and flour or line a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin. Sift the flour, or flour and baking powder, into a bowl, rub in the butter, add the caster or light brown sugar.
Peel and core the apples, cut the flesh into 2 cm/¾ inch dice. Blend the Demerara sugar with the cinnamon and roll the apples in this mixture. Add to the flour and other ingredients. Blend with the egg and milk. Do not exceed the amount of liquid as the juice from the apples flows during baking. Spoon into the cake tin and top with the caster sugar and cinnamon.
Bake for 1¼ hours, or until firm. Check the oven after 50 minutes to 1 hour and if the cake is becoming too brown lower the heat to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2.
Eat this cake when warm or on the day of baking. It is often served with butter and a sprinkling of sugar.
Potato Apple Cake
Cooking time: 30 minutes Makes 1 cake
The Irish love of potatoes is reflected in this cake. In the past it was cooked in a large, strong frying pan over a slow burning fire but it is easier to bake in the oven. The combination of apples and the light potato mixture is a very pleasing one.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb old potatoes, weight when peeled 1 lb
to taste salt to taste
100 g/4 oz self-raising flour, or plain flour sifted with 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 cup
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster or granulated sugar ¼ cup
1 egg 1
For the topping:
2 large cooking apples 2
25 g/1 oz butter 2 tablespoons
4 to 6 cloves 4 to 6
½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ to 1 teaspoon
2 tablespoons brown sugar 3 tablespoons
Cook the potatoes in salted boiling water until just soft. Strain and replace in the pan and dry for 1 or 2 minutes to make sure the potatoes are floury and not too moist. Mash them until quite smooth. Sift the flour, or flour and baking powder, into a large bowl, rub in the butter then add the sugar and the mashed potatoes. Mix thoroughly. Beat the egg and add this gradually to make a soft pliable dough. Grease a flat baking tray, or cover this with baking parchment, or grease a 20 cm/ 8 inch round cake tin; preferably with a loose base. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F, Gas Mark 5. Either form the potato mixture into a neat round and place on the baking tray or press it into the cake tin.
Peel and core the apples and cut into slices of an even thickness. Arrange on top of the cake. Melt the butter, brush over the apples, then arrange the cloves at intervals on the apples. Blend the cinnamon and sugar and sprinkle evenly over the apples. Bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until golden brown with a topping of soft apples. This cake should be eaten when freshly cooked.
Variation:
Bake the potatoes in their jackets or cook in the microwave. Split and scoop out the pulp. Weigh and mash this. This method of cooking the potatoes is a good one.
Ginger Meringue Cake
Cooking time: 1 hour 25 minutes Makes 1 cake
This is a very unusual ginger cake, the base has a shortbread consistency and it is topped with meringue. It was a feature of harvest time on Welsh farms.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz plain flour 2 cups
1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon
110 g/4 oz butter ½ cup
2 egg yolks 2
For the topping:
3 tablespoons apricot jam 4 tablespoons
2 egg whites 2
110 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
Preheat the oven to 190-200°C/375-400°F, Gas Mark 5-6. Use the lower setting if the oven is on the hot side. Grease a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin, preferably one with a loose base.
Sift the flour, baking powder and ginger, rub in the butter. Add the egg yolks and blend thoroughly. Press the dough into the tin and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden in colour. Reduce the heat to 120°C/250°F, Gas Mark ½. Allow the cake to cool for 15 minutes. Sieve the jam and spread over the top of the cake. Whisk the egg whites until very stiff, whisk in half the sugar and fold in the remainder. Pipe or spread over the top of the cake and bake for 1 hour. Cool and carefully remove from the tin. Serve when fresh.
Drop Scones
Cooking time: 4 minutes Makes 12
These scones are given this name as you drop the batter on to the griddle. In a tribute to their origin they are also known as Scotch Pancakes, for they are made with a thick batter.
Sift 100 g/4 oz (1 cup) self-raising flour and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Add 1 egg and 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) milk. Beat well until a smooth mixture. Melt 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons) butter and add this to the batter.
Grease and preheat the griddle. To test the heat, drop a small spoonful of the batter on to the preheated and greased griddle – this should form bubbles within 2 minutes if the heat is correct. Drop spoonfuls of the batter onto the surface. Cook for 2 minutes, then turn over and cook for the same time on the second side. Lay on a clean cloth over the wire cooling tray. Serve with butter.
Victoria Sandwich
Cooking time: 20 to 25 minutes Makes 1 cake
This light cake, described in America as a ‘Butter Sponge’ is really an adaptation of the older, true sponge cake (see page 292). These light cakes prove the skill in baking, which has been a British tradition for centuries. The Victoria Sponge, as its name suggests, came into real prominence during the Victorian era, when elegant afternoon teas, such as described on page 307, became the vogue.
The old way of weighing the ingredients for this cake was to place the eggs on the scales, instead of a weight, then balance them against the butter, the sugar and then the flour. The average weight of an egg is 55 to 60 g/2 oz. Weights are given in the recipe below. The technique of making this cake is given in detail in the method because, if you appreciate the importance of the stages, you can then achieve perfect results when making other cakes by the same creaming method.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
3 eggs – size 1 or 2 3
175 g/6 oz butter ¾ cup
175 g/6 oz caster sugar ¾ cup
175 g/6 oz self-raising flour 1½ cups
or plain flour sifted with 1½ teaspoons baking powder
To fill and top: see method
Preheat the oven to 180-190°C/350-375°F, Gas Mark 4-5. Use the lower setting if your oven is inclined to be on the hot side. Grease and flour two 19 to 20 cm/7½ to 8 inch sandwich tins or line the base with greased greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
Put the butter and sugar into a mixing bowl – it is important to use caster sugar in this light type of mixture. Cream together with a wooden spoon until soft and light, or use an electric mixer. This stage is very important to dissolve the grains of sugar and to introduce air into the mixture.
Beat the eggs, then gradually add a little egg to the creamed mixture and beat again. Continue like this until all the eggs are incorporated but, if you see any signs of the mixture curdling (separating), beat in a little of the sifted flour.
Sift the flour, or flour and baking powder. Gently fold the flour into the mixture with a metal spoon. You may find that you prefer to do this stage by hand, even when using an electric mixer. If you use the mixer then turn to the slowest speed. Over-beating of the flour gives the sponge an uneven texture.
Spoon the mixture into the tins, making sure you have divided it equally, then bake for approximately 20 to 25 minutes, or until firm to a gentle touch. Allow to cool in the tins for a few minutes. Turn out and place onto a wire cooling tray.
When cold, sandwich together with jam or lemon curd or another filling and top with caster or sifted icing sugar. The sponge can be topped and coated with icing.
Based on a Victoria Sandwich
The following recipes are various forms of the Victoria Sandwich (see page 285). The mixture can be flavoured with various essences or with finely grated lemon or orange zest.
Victoria Sponge Cake
Use the same proportions as in the Victoria Sandwich, but put the mixture into a well greased and floured, or lined, 19 to 20 cm/7½ to 8 inch cake tin. Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3 and bake the cake for 45 to 50 minutes. (Pictuted opposite.)
Variation:
One-stage Victoria Sandwich or Sponge Cake: use the same proportions as the Victoria Sandwich but substitute soft margarine for the butter. You could use butter if this is softened by standing it in a warm place for a time. As less air is introduced into the mixture by prolonged creaming, it is advisable to add 1 teaspoon baking powder to the 175 g/6 oz (1½ cups) self-raising flour or 2½ teaspoons baking powder to the same quantity of plain flour. This is not essential but it does produce a lighter sponge.
Put all the ingredients together into a bowl and beat by hand for approximately 2 minutes, 1 minute in an electric mixer or 30 to 45 seconds in a food processor. Bake as the timing for the Victoria Sandwich or the Sponge Cake above.
Light Chocolate Sandwich
Follow the proportions for the Victoria Sandwich but omit 25 g/1 oz (¼ cup) flour and substitute the same weight of cocoa powder; sift this with the flour. Bake as the Victoria Sandwich. When cold fill and top with this icing.
Chocolate Butter Icing: melt 75 g/3 oz (3 squares) plain chocolate, allow to cool. Cream 100 g/4 oz (½ cup) butter with 150 g/5 oz (1¼ cups) sifted icing sugar, add the softened chocolate. Sifted cocoa or chocolate powder to taste can be used instead of melted chocolate. If using cocoa, increase the icing sugar to 175 g/6 oz (1½ cups).
Light Coffee Sandwich
Follow the recipe for Victoria Sandwich but choose small eggs and beat these with 1 tablespoon (1½ tablespoons) very strong coffee or coffee essence. Bake as the Victoria Sandwich. When cold fill and top with this icing.
Coffee Butter Icing: cream 100 g/4 oz (½ cup) butter with 175 g/6 oz (1 cup) sifted icing sugar. Add very strong coffee or coffee essence to taste. Chopped walnuts are often added to the filling and halved walnuts used to decorate the top of the cake.
Rich Madeira Cake
Cooking time: 1¾ hours Makes 1 cake
This is undoubtedly one of the most important British cakes. The name is somewhat confusing – there is no Madeira wine in the cake, but it was usual to serve it with a glass of Madeira, a favourite wine in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century. The ingredients produce a rich cake with a smooth texture.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz butter 1 cup
225 g/8 oz caster sugar 1 cup
1 to 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest 1 to 2 teaspoons
½ teaspoon vanilla essence ½ teaspoon
225 g/8 oz plain flour 2 cups
1 level teaspoon baking powder 1 level teaspoon
pinch salt pinch
4 large eggs 4
To decorate: 3 teaspoons caster sugar, large, thin slice crystallized lemon peel
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Grease and flour an 18 cm/7 inch cake tin or line this with greased greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
Cream the butter, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla essence until soft and light. Sift the flour with the baking powder (do not exceed this amount) and the salt. Whisk the eggs well. Beat the eggs gradually into the creamed mixture; add a little of the flour if the mixture shows any signs of curdling (separating). Fold in the flour. Spoon the mixture into the prepared cake tin. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the mixture and place the peel in the centre.
Bake for 1¾ hours or until firm and golden in colour. Cover the peel with a small piece of foil after 1¼ hours if it is becoming too dark in colour. Cool the cake in the tin for 10 minutes then turnout onto a wire cooling tray.
Variations:
Bake in a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin for just about 1½ hours.
Add the crystallized peel topping to the cake after baking for 1¼ hours.
Economical Madeira Cake
Reduce the amounts of butter and sugar to 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup). Use plain flour sifted with 1½ teaspoons baking powder. Add 3 eggs and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) milk. Bake for approximately 1½ hours at 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3.
Based on Madeira Cake
Almond Cake
Cream 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) butter and 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) caster sugar with a few drops of almond essence. Beat in 3 large eggs. Sift 175 g/6 oz (1½ cups) plain flour with 1½ teaspoons baking powder and blend with 75 g/3 oz (¾ cup) ground almonds. Do not add any milk. Bake as the Economical Madeira Cake (see page 288). If desired, top the cake mixture with blanched and flaked almonds before baking.
Coconut Cake
Follow either of the recipes for Madeira Cake (see page 288) but use only 175 g/6 oz (1½ cups) flour and add 75 g/3 oz (1 cup) desiccated coconut. The quantity of baking powder is the same as given in the Madeira Cake recipes. Top the cake mixture with caster sugar and a light dusting of desiccated coconut before baking. Bake as the timings given on page 288.
Cornflour Cake
The use of cornflour gives a very light texture to the cake.
Follow the directions for either of the Madeira Cakes on page 288 but use only 175 g/6 oz (1½ cups) flour and 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) cornflour. The proportion of baking powder is the same. Bake as the timings given on page 288.
Genoa Cake
In spite of the Italian name, this has been a classic favourite cake in Britain for many years. Do not exceed the amount of dried fruit and peel given below.
Use the Economical Madeira Cake recipe (288) and add 175 g/6 oz (1 cup) mixed dried fruit and 50 g/2 oz (⅓ cup) finely chopped mixed crystallized peel. Bake as the Economical Madeira Cake (see page 288).
Seed Cake
This has been a favourite cake in Britain for a long time. The seeds in the cake and the topping give a very interesting taste.
Follow the proportions for either of the Madeira Cakes (see page 288) and add 2 to 3 teaspoons caraway seeds to the cake mixture. Top the cake with a generous sprinkling of caster sugar and ½ to 1 teaspoon caraway seeds before baking. Bake as the timings given on page 288.
Rich Cherry Cake
Cooking time: 1½ hours Makes 1 cake
The small amount of baking powder used and the slow cooking help to prevent the cherries dropping in the cake. If they are excessively sticky rinse in cold water and dry them.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
175 g/6 oz butter sugar ¾ cup
175 g/6 oz caster sugar ¾ cup
3 large eggs 3
225 g/8 oz plain flour, see method 2 cups
1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon
200 g/7 oz glacé cherries scant cup
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2. Grease and flour a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin, or line this with baking parchment or greased greaseproof paper.
Cream together the butter and sugar until soft and light. Beat the eggs and add these gradually to the creamed mixture. Sift the flour and baking powder. If preferred you could use half plain and half self-raising flour.
Halve the cherries and mix with the flour. Fold the flour and cherries into the other ingredients. Do not add any liquid. Spoon into the prepared tin. Bake for 1½ hours or until the cake is firm. Cool for 3 to 4 minutes then turn out.
Variation:
Cherry Almond Cake: omit 50 g/2 oz (½ cup) of the flour and use 75 g/3 oz (¾ cup) of ground almonds. Use the same amount of baking powder as given above.
Rich Genoa Cake
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Grease and flour a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin or line it as suggested above.
Cream 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) butter, 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) caster sugar and 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest until soft and light. Beat 4 eggs and add these gradually to the creamed mixture. Add a little of the flour if the mixture shows signs of curdling.
Sift 225 g/8 oz (2 cups) plain flour with 1 teaspoon baking powder, fold into the other ingredients then add 225 g/8 oz (1¼ cups) mixed dried fruit and 50 g/2 oz (⅓ cup) chopped mixed crystallized peel. Spoon into the tin. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top of the cake. Bake for 1 hour at 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3, then reduce the heat to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2 and continue cooking for 30 minutes.
Dundee Cake
Cooking time: 2 hours Makes 1 cake
This fruit cake is justly famous. Dundee Cakes are exported worldwide by Scottish firms to many people who cherish the flavour. This cake without the almond topping is a good basis for a Simnel Cake (see page 309).
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
175 g/6 oz butter ¾ cup
175 g/6 oz caster sugar ¾ cup
3 large eggs 3
225 g/8 oz plain flour 2 cups
1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon
25 g/1 oz ground almonds ¼ cup
2 tablespoons sherry or milk 2½ tablespoons
50 g/2 oz glacé cherries ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz chopped mixed crystallized peel ⅓ cup
450 g/1 lb mixed dried fruit 1 lb
For the topping: almonds
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Grease and flour or line a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin. Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light. Beat the eggs and add to the creamed mixture. Save a little egg white to glaze the topping of almonds. Sift the flour, baking powder and ground almonds together. Fold into the creamed ingredients with the sherry or milk.
Chop the glacé cherries into small pieces. Mix with the peel and dried fruit, then stir into the cake mixture. Spoon into the prepared tin. Arrange about 50 g/2 oz (scant ½ cup) blanched almonds over the top of the cake and brush with egg white.
Bake the cake for 30 minutes then reduce the heat to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2 and continue baking for a further 1½ hours, or until firm to the touch.
Testing Cakes
The first test is always by pressing the top of the cake to see if it is firm. Next, see if the cake has shrunk away from the sides of the tin. Insert a fine wooden, not metal, skewer into the cake – if it comes out clean the cake is cooked.
With a very rich cake, such as the Christmas cake, listen carefully. If cooked there is no noise; if not completely cooked there is a humming noise, which indicates it needs longer in the oven.
Sponge Cake
Cooking time: 30 minutes Makes 1 cake
This is the very light delicate sponge that has been made for a very long time in Britain. In Dorothy Hartley’s book Food in England, there are sketches of towering sponges made in elaborate moulds.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
85 g/3 oz plain or self-raising flour, see method ¾ cup
3 large eggs 3
100 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
Sift the flour twice to lighten it and leave it on a plate in the warm kitchen for a short time. As so much air is beaten into the eggs and sugar you can use plain flour and no raising agent, but self-raising flour can also be used.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Line an 18 to 19 cm/7 to 7½ inch cake tin with baking parchment or greaseproof paper; both of these should be lightly greased.
Whisk the eggs and sugar until thick and creamy, you should see the trail of the whisk. Fold the flour in gently and carefully. Pour into the tin and bake for approximately 30 minutes but test a little earlier than that. Use a gentle pressure with one finger to see if the sponge is firm. Cool for a few minutes then carefully turn out.
The sponge can be split and filled with jam or whipped cream and jam and it can be iced on top, see below.
Glacé Icing
This is the icing suitable for a delicate sponge. It is often known as water icing.
To make a thin coating on the sponge above, sift 175 g/6 oz (1⅓ cups) icing sugar into a bowl, add sufficient water to bind. Instead of water, you could use lemon or orange juice.
Swiss Roll
Line a Swiss roll tin measuring 30.5 × 23 cm/12 × 9 inches with greased baking parchment or greaseproof paper. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F, Gas Mark 5.
Make the sponge as above. Pour into the tin and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until firm to the touch. Turn out on greaseproof paper sprinkled with a generous layer of caster sugar. Remove the cooking paper from the sponge. Spread with warm jam and roll up.
Berffro Cakes
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes 10 to 12
These Welsh shortcakes should be baked in scallop shells – these can be the genuine ones from the fishmonger or ovenproof moulds or tins of that shape.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
150 g/5 oz butter, preferably unsalted ⅝ cup
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cup
175 g/6 oz plain flour 1½ cups
To decorate: caster sugar
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Wash and dry then lightly grease the inside of the scallop shells or moulds.
Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light, add the flour and knead together. Chill for a short time then place on to a lightly floured board and roll out very firmly until a thin dough. Cut into large rounds and press these into the shells. Trim the edges; knead this surplus and roll out again to make more rounds.
Stand the scallop shells on baking sheets and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until firm around the edges. Cool in the shells, remove and dust with caster sugar.
Variations:
The dough can be cut into small rounds and baked on greased trays as ordinary biscuits. In this case the butter can be reduced to 110 g/4 oz (½ cup).
The authentic scallop-shaped shortcakes are an excellent basis for desserts if filled with fruit and cream or ice cream just before serving.
The creamed butter and sugar can be flavoured with vanilla or other essences, mixed spice or finely grated lemon zest.
Fruit Tart
You need shortcrust pastry made with 350 g/12 oz (2 cups) of flour, etc (see page 295 for shortcrust pastry and page 238 to follow recipe for Fruit Pie). Line a 23 cm/9 inch shallow pie plate or a 20 cm/8 inch deeper flan dish or tin with just over half the pastry. Sprinkle with a little flour, semolina or cornflour and sugar. This helps to thicken any juice that flows from the fruit and prevents the bottom pastry becoming soggy. Add the fruit and sugar; add only a few drops of water, even with hard fruit, and cover with the pastry. Seal and flute the edges.
Always heat a flat baking sheet or tray when preheating the oven and place the tin or dish on this. It is particularly important if using a ceramic dish. It encourages the bottom pastry to become crisp. Bake as above.
Welsh Cakes
Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes approximately 12
These small flat cakes, known as Pice Ar Y Maen, are cooked on a bakestone (the Welsh name for a griddle). They are not only quickly made and cooked, but are also delicious. They should be eaten when fresh, but they do freeze very well.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz self-raising flour, or plain flour sifted with 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups
pinch salt, optional pinch
110 g/4 oz butter or margarine ½ cup
110 g/4 oz caster or granulated sugar ½ cup
110 g/4 oz currants ¾ cup
1 egg 1
a little milk a little
To decorate: caster or granulated sugar
Sift the flour, or flour and baking powder, and salt. Rub in the butter or margarine, add the sugar and currants. Blend with the beaten egg and just enough milk to make a fairly firm rolling consistency.
Roll out the dough until just under 1.5 cm/½ inch in thickness, cut into small rounds. Preheat and lightly grease the bakestone. To test if the heat is correct for these cakes shake on a little flour, it should turn golden in 1 minute – no less a time. Place the cakes on the bakestone, cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom. Turn over and cook for the same time on the second side.
Lift the cakes on to a wire cooling tray and dust with sugar.
Rock Cakes
The recipe for these small and economical cakes is similar to Welsh Cakes (see above) except that the mixture should be a sticky consistency, so the mixture needs a very little more milk. It should stand in peaks when stirred with a knife. Use mixed fruit instead of all currants, increasing the amount to 175 g/6 oz (1 cup). Preheat the oven to 200 to 220°C/400 to 425°F, Gas Mark 6 to 7.
Put small spoonfuls of the mixture on to lightly greased baking trays, or on the baking parchment on the trays. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden and firm.
Variations:
The cake mixture can be flavoured with mixed spice or with finely grated lemon or orange zest. Use a little fruit juice in mixing instead of all milk.
Cornish Saffron Cakes: are made in the same way but sift a good pinch of saffron powder with the flour. To use saffron strands see page 77.
Shortcrust Pastry
Cooking time: as specific recipes
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
225 g/8 oz plain white flour 2 cups
pinch salt pinch
110 g/4 oz fat – all butter, all margarine, or half butter or margarine and half cooking lard 1 cup
2 to 3 tablespoons ice cold water 2½ to 4 tablespoons
Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Cut the fat(s) into pieces and drop into the flour. Lift some of the fat and flour with your fingertips, or forefingers and thumbs, and rub together. Do this well above the top of the bowl, so you are incorporating air into the mixture and keeping it cool. Continue until all the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. Do not over-handle the fat and flour, if you do it becomes sticky. This is particularly important when using a food processor.
Gradually add the liquid and blend with the dough, using a flat-bladed knife. Different makes of flour vary in the amount of liquid they absorb but you have used sufficient when the mixture is easily formed into a ball and leaves the bowl clean.
Dust the pastry board and rolling pin with a little flour, roll out the dough to a neat shape. Like all kinds of pastry, shortcrust is better if it is allowed to rest (relax) for a time. Shape and bake as specific recipe.
Wholemeal Pastry
While you can use all wholemeal flour, you produce a lighter pastry, and one that is easier to handle if it is made with half plain white flour and half plain wholemeal flour. When sifted together some of the bran may be left in the sieve. Retain this and sprinkle over the pastry when it is rolled out.
The modern touch: Soft polyunsaturated fats of today require a different technique in handling. It is better to cream the fat with a little of the flour and the amount of liquid recommended on the packet then incoporate the rest of the flour.
Sweet Shortcrust Pastry
It is better to use butter in this pastry but the proportions are the same as for the classic shortcrust pastry above with the addition of 25 to 50 g/1 to 2 oz (2 tablespoons to ¼ cup) caster sugar or sifted icing sugar. Blend into the pastry before adding the liquid.
Flaky Pastry and Richer Pastries
These depend upon incorporating air into the dough by rolling and folding. Flaky pastry has 3 rollings and 3 foldings. Chill the pastry between rollings and wrap it, so it does not develop a hard outer surface.
Use butter or hard margarine, or half butter or margarine and half lard. Some old recipes used half finely diced suet and half butter. The fat should be firm but not too hard. If using more than one fat, blend these together. Strong (bread-making) flour is recommended as it helps the pastry rise and keep a good shape.
Sift 225 g/8 oz (2 cups) strong or plain flour and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Divide 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) of your selected fat(s) into 3 portions. Rub a third into the flour, exactly as though making shortcrust pastry. Add ice cold water plus a squeeze of lemon juice to make an elastic and pliable dough; softer than shortcrust pastry. Roll out to an oblong shape.
Cut the second third of the fat(s) into small pieces and dot over the top two-thirds of the dough.
Bring up the fatless section, as if to make an opened envelope.
Bring down the top third of the dough, so making a closed envelope.
Turn the dough at right angles so you have the open end towards you, seal this and the other open end firmly with the rolling pin. Depress the pastry at intervals, known as ‘ribbing’ the pastry. Roll out the dough to an oblong again.
Add the last of the fat in exactly the same manner as before, fold the dough, seal the ends and ‘rib’ the pastry. Give the final rolling and folding without fat.
Rough Puff Pastry
Use the same proportions as flaky pastry, above. Sift the flour and salt into the bowl. Cut the fat into pieces the size of a walnut. Add to the flour. Use two knives to cut the fat into the flour until it has formed small pieces, do not rub it in. Blend the dough with cold water and lemon juice. Roll to an oblong and follow the directions for folding, sealing the ends and ‘ribbing’, as above.
Give this pastry 5 rollings and 5 foldings.
Puff Pastry
Use 225 g/8 oz (1 cup) butter to 225 g/8 oz (2 cups) flour. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl, add sufficient water and lemon juice to give an elastic dough. Roll to an oblong, place all the butter in the centre. Fold the dough and seal the ends etc., as above.
Give puff pastry 7 rollings and 7 foldings.
Frozen puff pastry: The texture and flavour of frozen puff pastry is greatly improved if the pastry is defrosted until sufficiently firm to roll out to an oblong – or use a sheet of just defrosted pastry.
Banbury Cakes
Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 12 to 15
‘Ride a cockhorse to Banbury Cross’ is the first line of a nursery rhyme. The cross to which it refers was destroyed in 1602 by Puritans but rebuilt again in 1859. This Oxfordshire town is famous for its ale and these cakes.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
For the puff pastry: 175 g/6 oz flour, etc. (see page 296) 1½ cups
For the filling:
Ingredients as Eccles Cakes (see page 298)
plus 50 g/2 oz plain sponge cake crumbs or Macaroon crumbs (see page 305) 1 cup
To glaze: egg white and caster sugar
Roll out the pastry as described under Eccles Cakes, but cut into oval shapes, not rounds. Blend the filling ingredients together then proceed as Eccles Cakes.
Coventry Godcakes
These cakes were presented to godparents by their godchildren and also given by the godparents to the children in celebration of New Year’s Day.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
For the puff pastry: 175 g/6 oz flour, etc. (see page 296) 1½ cups
For the filling: 300 g/10 oz mincemeat (see page 314) 1¼ cups
To glaze: egg white and caster sugar
Roll out the pastry as for Eccles Cakes. Cut into 24 to 30 large triangles. Top half the triangles with mincemeat, moisten the edges of the pastry with water and top with remaining triangles. Glaze and proceed as Eccles Cakes.
Eccles Cakes
Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 12 to 15
Up to the time of Queen Elizabeth I, ‘wakes’ – the Lancashire name for holidays – were celebrated in the town of Eccles. The Queen abolished these holidays but they were reinstated in the reign of her successor, King James I, and they continued for some centuries. These cakes were undoubtedly sold to celebrate the ‘wakes’.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
For the puff pastry: 175 g/6 oz flour, etc. (see page 296) 1½ cups
For the filling:
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster or light brown sugar ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz sultanas ⅓ cup
50 g/2 oz currants ⅓ cup
2 tablespoons finely chopped mixed crystallized peel 3 tablespoons
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon
½ teaspoon mixed spice ½ teaspoon
½ to 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ to 1 tablespoon
To glaze: 1 egg white and caster sugar
Make the puff pastry (see page 296). If using ready-prepared puff pastry you need 350 g/12 oz (¾ lb). Wrap and chill home-made pastry while making the filling.
Soften the butter slightly then mix with the other ingredients for the filling. The amount of lemon juice used is a matter of personal taste.
Roll out the pastry until about 3 mm/⅛ inch in thickness. Cut into rounds about the diameter of a saucer. Place a little filling in the centre of each pastry round, moisten the edges of the pastry with water and gather together to form neat balls, completely enclosing the filling. Turn the balls over, so the joins are underneath.
Roll out gently to form flattish rounds 6 to 7.5 cm/2½ to 3 inches in diameter. Make several slits on top of the cakes, then place the pastry on ungreased baking trays. Brush the top of the cakes with unwhisked egg white and coat with the caster sugar. It helps to keep the cakes a good shape if they are chilled for a short time before baking.
Preheat the oven to 220 to 230°C/425 to 450°F, Gas Mark 7 to 8. Bake the cakes for 20 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown. Check the baking after 12 minutes and reduce the heat slightly if the pastry is becoming too brown.
Variation:
You can use milk to glaze the pastry instead of egg white.
Shropshire Cakes
These cakes are made as Eccles Cakes (see page 298) but the filling consists of 25 g/1 oz (2 tablespoons) softened butter with 175 g/6 oz (1 cup) currants, 25 g/1 oz (1½ tablespoons) chopped mixed crystallized peel, 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) soft light brown sugar and about 1 tablespoon finely chopped mint leaves.
Maids of Honour
Cooking time: 30 minutes Makes 12 to 15
This recipe is believed to have originated during the reign of King Henry VIII. It is thought that his second wife, the ill-fated Anne Boleyn, and her maids of honour produced the cakes to please the King. Most chemists, as well as good grocers, sell orange flower water.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
For the puff pastry: 175 g/6 oz flour, etc. (see page 296) 1½ cups
For the filling:
1 egg 1
1 egg yolk 1
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cup
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest ½ teaspoon
1 teaspoon orange flower water or lemon juice 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon brandy 1 teaspoon
100 g/4 oz ground almonds 1 cup
25 g/1 oz fine cake crumbs ½ cup
To decorate: little icing sugar
Make the pastry, roll out until about 3 mm/⅛ inch in thickness. Cut into 12 to 15 rounds to fit into fairly good-sized patty tins. Chill well before filling.
Preheat the oven to 220 to 230°C/425 to 450°F, Gas Mark 7 to 8. Put the egg and egg yolk into a bowl with the sugar, whisk until thick and creamy. Add the rest of the ingredients. Spoon into the pastry cases.
Bake the cakes for 10 minutes at this heat, then reduce to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3 and bake for a further 20 minutes, or until pastry and filling are firm. Cool and top with sifted icing sugar.
Jam Puffs
These are a splendid way to use a small amount of left-over puff pastry. Flaky or rough puff pastries could be used instead.
Roll out the pastry until very thin, then cut into 12.5 to 15 cm/5 to 6 inch squares. Put a good teaspoon of jam in the centre of each square. Moisten the pastry edges then fold to form triangles; seal the edges well and then flake them. This means making tiny cuts horizontally which encourages the pastry to rise.
Place the triangles on to a baking sheet then brush them with a very little lightly whisked egg white and sprinkle a small amount of caster sugar over the surface. Bake at the temperature given for Maids of Honour (page 300) for 15 minutes.
Rich Shortbread
Cooking time; 40 to 50 minutes Makes 1 round
Although this Scottish biscuit is enjoyed at all times of the year and by all nationalities, it originated as another speciality for Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve). It is essential to use the best quality butter to achieve a fine flavour.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
150 g/5 oz unsalted butter, weight when moisture removed, see method ⅝ cup
175 g/6 oz plain flour 1½ cups
50 g/2 oz rice flour, cornflour or ground rice ½ cup
75 g/3 oz caster sugar ⅜ cup
Put slightly more butter than given above in a cloth; squeeze very hard to extract all the moisture, then weigh out the right amount. Sift the flour and rice flour, or alternative, together. Mix half the sugar with the flours; rub in the butter until like fine breadcrumbs. Add the last of the sugar and knead the mixture well.
If using a wooden shortbread mould: brush the 19 cm/7½ inch mould with 2 to 3 drops of oil, then coat in a little flour. Carefully press the dough into the mould. Allow to stand for 15 minutes, then invert on to greaseproof paper or baking parchment on an ungreased baking tray.
Without a mould: form the dough into a neat round on an ungreased baking tray, which can be lined with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Flute the edges.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2. Prick the shortbread with a very fine skewer. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes until firm and very pale golden. Cool for 5 minutes, then mark into 6 to 8 portions. Remove from the tray when quite cold.
The shortbread can be dusted with caster sugar before serving. Store in an airtight tin, away from other biscuits which might affect the delicate taste.
Ayrshire Shortbread
Reduce the amount of butter in the Rich Shortbread recipe (see above) to 110 g/4 oz (½ cup) and increase the sugar to 110 g/4 oz (½ cup). Bind the mixture with an egg yolk and 1 to 2 teaspoons cream. Either form into a large round and bake as above or roll out until 1.5 cm/½ inch in thickness and cut into 5 cm/2 inch rounds. Prick and bake these for 15 minutes in a preheated oven set to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3.
Fruit Shortbread
Use either the Rich Shortbread or Ayrshire Shortbread recipe. Work 25 g/1 oz (1½ tablespoons) chopped glacé cherries, 25 g/1 oz (¼ cup) blanched and chopped almonds and 25 g/1 oz (1½ tablespoons) finely chopped mixed crystallized peel into the dough. Form into a large round, place on a lightly greased baking tray or on baking parchment on the tray. Flute the edges, prick and bake as Rich Shortbread (see page 301).
Petticoat Tails
Cooking time: 15 minutes Makes 8
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
As Rich Shortbread (see page 301)
a little extra flour a little
To decorate: caster sugar
Make the Rich Shortbread dough (see page 301) but work in a little extra flour, so the dough can be rolled out to 6 mm/¼ inch in thickness. Form into a large round. Place this on a lightly greased baking tray. Cut a 5 cm/2 inch circle from the centre of the round then make the band around this lightly into 8 wedges. Do not cut right through the biscuit mixture.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3 and bake the round for 15 minutes or until crisp but still very pale in colour. Allow to cool on the baking tray then carefully separate the sections. Dredge with sugar before serving.
Shrewsbury Biscuits
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes 10 to 12
Often these biscuits were called Shropshire Cakes. They were made for All Saints Day, on November 1st each year. The seeds can be omitted and replaced by essences or grated lemon zest.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
100 g/4 oz plain flour 1 cup
100 g/4 oz rice flour 1 cup
100 g/4 oz butter ½ cup
100 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
1 to 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 1 to 2 teaspoons
1 small egg 1
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Blend the two flours, rub in the butter until the mixture is like fine breadcrumbs, add the sugar and the seeds. Mix well. Separate the egg and add the yolk to the mixture. If it is too stiff to make a firm rolling consistency, add a little of the white but keep the mixture as dry as possible.
Roll out firmly until 6 mm/¼ inch in thickness. Cut into rounds. Place on ungreased baking trays and cook for 12 to 15 minutes. Allow to cool for 5 minutes then remove from the trays to a wire cooling rack.
Gingernuts
Cooking time: 15 minutes Makes 16 to 18
Like Brandy Snaps, these are among the oldest British biscuits. Ginger, in various forms, was particularly popular during the nineteenth century.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
110 g/4 oz plain flour 1 cup
½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda ½ teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon mixed spice, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon
55 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
2 tablespoons golden syrup scant 3 tablespoons
25 g/1 oz caster or soft brown sugar 2 tablespoons
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F, Gas Mark 6. Grease 2 or 3 baking sheets. Sift the dry ingredients together. Put the butter, syrup and sugar into a saucepan and heat until just melted. Remove from the heat and add the dry ingredients. Mix thoroughly and allow the mixture to cool sufficiently to handle.
Roll into 16 to 18 small balls and put on to the baking trays. Allow plenty of space for the biscuits to spread out and flatten. Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3 and bake for a further 10 minutes. If using an electric oven which holds the heat for a long time, you could switch it off and let the biscuits continue cooking in the residual heat.
Cool on the trays for 10 minutes then remove to a wire cooling tray. Store in an airtight tin away from other biscuits.
Flapjacks
These have been one of the favourite biscuits of most children over many generations.
Put 75 g/3 oz (⅜ cup) butter, 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) sugar, either caster or light brown, and 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) golden or maple syrup into a saucepan, heat gently until the ingredients have melted. Add 175 g/6 oz (2 cups) rolled oats. Mix the ingredients together very thoroughly.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F, Gas Mark 4. Grease an 18 cm/7 inch square sandwich tin, add the oat mixture and press down firmly with a flat-bladed knife. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Mark in fingers while still hot but remove from the tin when nearly cold. Store away from other biscuits.
Gingerbread Men
Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes 10 to 12
These have delighted children for centuries. They were made for fêtes and fairs. In the old days honey would have been used instead of golden syrup or treacle.
There are many recipes for these but these crisp biscuit shapes store well.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
85 g/3 oz golden syrup or black treacle, or use a mixture of the two ¼ cup
85 g/3 oz butter ⅜ cup
85 g/3 oz caster or light brown sugar ⅜ cup
225 g/8 oz plain flour 2 cups
1 to 2 teaspoons ground ginger, or to taste 1 to 2 teaspoons
a little milk a little
To decorate: sweetmeats and icing, see method
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F, Gas Mark 4. Grease baking trays or line with baking parchment. Put the syrup or treacle into a saucepan with the butter and sugar. Heat gently until the ingredients have just melted. Allow to cool. Sift the flour and ground ginger, add the melted ingredients with just enough milk to make a firm rolling consistency. Knead the mixture well, then roll out very firmly.
Cut into shapes with a cookie cutter or, failing this, make a shape in cardboard and cut around it. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until firm to the touch. Do not allow to become too firm for these biscuits harden as they cool.
When cold, decorate with small pieces of sweetmeat and a little glacé icing (see page 292). These store well in an airtight container, away from other biscuits.
Whispers
This was a name by which meringues were once known – because they were as delicate as a whisper.
The proportion of sugar to egg white is important. To each egg white, use 55 g/2 oz (¼ cup) caster sugar or half caster and half sifted icing sugar. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, but not dry and crumbly. Add a few drops of vanilla essence. You can beat in all the sugar gradually or beat in half the sugar and fold in the remainder.
Spoon or pipe the mixture on to a lightly oiled baking tray or a silicone parchment-covered tray. Bake very slowly in an oven preheated to 140°C/275°F, Gas Mark 1. Medium-sized meringues take about 2 hours to dry out.
Almond Macaroons
Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 12 to 18
Macaroons have been a favourite in Britain for a very long time, as almond trees have flourished in this country and the better quality Jordan almonds were imported. In the old days the almonds would have been blanched, dried and pounded until fine. Modern ground almonds make this task unnecessary. If you like a slightly sticky texture to the macaroons place a dish of water in the oven during the baking time.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
2 egg whites from small eggs 2
few drops almond or ratafia essence few drops
175 g/6 oz caster sugar ¾ cup
150 g/5 oz ground almonds 1¼ cups
1 teaspoon rice flour or cornflour, optional 1 teaspoon
few sheets rice paper few sheets
To decorate: 12 to 18 blanched almonds
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F, Gas Mark 4. Whisk the egg whites until just frothy. Add the essence, then the sugar and ground almonds. The mixture should be of a consistency that you can roll into 12 to 18 soft balls. The rice flour or cornflour makes a slightly firmer texture but is not essential.
Place rice paper on baking trays. Arrange the biscuits on the paper, allowing a good space between these. Top with the almonds and bake for 20 minutes or until golden in colour. Cool then cut around the rice paper. Serve freshly made.
Coconut Macaroons
Follow the recipe above but use half ground almonds and half desiccated coconut.
Do not use rice flour or cornflour. Top with halved glacé cherries. Bake as above.
Ratafias
These tiny macaroons are used in desserts. Make the mixture into about 65 small balls. Place on well greased baking trays. Bake for 10 minutes, or until very firm, at the temperature above. When cold store in an airtight container.
Rout Biscuits
These were a speciality of the Regency period. Blend 110 g/4 oz (1 cup) ground almonds with 110 g/4 oz (½ cup) caster sugar, a few drops of almond essence and 1 egg yolk. Roll into about 50 small balls. Brush with lightly whisked egg white. Bake in a preheated oven set to 200°C/400°F, Gas Mark 6 for 6 minutes only.
Brandy Snaps
Cooking time: 8 to 12 minutes for each batch Makes 16
These have been a feature in Britain for centuries since they were sold at the ‘fairings’ (fairs) which originally were cattle markets but gradually became amusement fairs as well. Brandy was included in the old recipes.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
50 g/2 oz golden syrup 3 tablespoons
50 g/2 oz butter ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz caster sugar ¼ cup
50 g/2 oz plain flour ¼ cup
½ to 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ to 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon brandy 1 teaspoon
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Well grease 2 or 3 baking trays.
Place the golden syrup, butter and sugar in a saucepan, stir over a moderate heat until the ingredients melt. Remove from the heat. Sift the flour and ginger, blend with the melted ingredients then add the brandy.
Put teaspoons of the mixture on the trays, allowing plenty of room for the mixture to spread. Put in the first tray of biscuits, bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the edges become firm. Cool for 1 or 2 minutes and grease the handles of several wooden spoons. Lift the first biscuit off the tray with a palette knife and roll around the spoon handle. Hold in position for a minute then place on a wire cooling tray. Continue like this until all the biscuits are rolled. During this time place the next tray of biscuits in the oven.
By baking in batches the biscuits should not stand too long and become difficult to roll. If this happens, heat in the oven for a few minutes so they soften again.
Always store these biscuits by themselves in an airtight tin.
Variation:
If the brandy is omitted, remove 1 teaspoon flour from the 50 g/2 oz (½ cup).
Honey Snaps
Substitute thin honey for the golden syrup and use mixed spice instead of ginger or flavour the mixture with a little finely grated lemon zest.
Coconut Pyramids
Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes Makes 15 to 20
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
2 egg whites from small eggs 2
110 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
175 g/6 oz desiccated coconut 2 cups
2 teaspoons cornflour, or as required 2 teaspoons
few sheets rice paper, optional few sheets
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Whisk the egg whites until just frothy. Add the sugar and coconut and blend well. The mixture must be a consistency that can be formed into neat shapes, so add the cornflour slowly to give the right texture. Mould into 15 to 20 pyramid shapes with slightly damp fingers.
Put the rice paper on to baking trays, or grease these or line with baking parchment. Arrange the pyramids on the trays. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until tipped with golden brown. Cool sufficiently to handle, then cut around the rice paper or lift off the trays. These keep for several days in an airtight container.
Afternoon Tea
This is one of the best ways of entertaining friends and family, or even business acquaintances, for all the cooking is done ahead, so everyone can relax and enjoy this leisurely meal.
A typical teatime menu would be something like this:
Assorted Sandwiches
Scones with cream and jam
Fruit Tarts
Iced Sponge Cake
Dundee Cake
Shortbread Biscuits
China or Indian Tea
The sandwiches can be prepared ahead, covered in foil and kept in the refrigerator until required. The recipes for potted foods on pages 8 to 17 give a number of savoury ingredients that would make excellent fillings for some sandwiches. Other fillings could be smoked salmon, salad ingredients, soft cream cheese or scrambled egg.
The recipes for the scones, tarts, cakes and shortbread are in this chapter.
Festive Fare
Like most countries, in Britain we have special dishes to celebrate festivals. At Easter there are decorated eggs and hot cross buns for Good Friday and chocolate eggs and simnel cake for Easter Sunday. The recipes are on pages 309 and 310.
The traditional foods at Christmas time include mince pies, Christmas pudding and Christmas cake. Recipes for these are on pages 311, 312 and 316. Turkey has become the most popular choice for Christmas dinner and there are interesting classic stuffings and sauces to accompany this bird in the relevant chapter. Some people, however, prefer to serve goose or other poultry or meat and ways of cooking these are given in detail.
In Scotland Hogmanay (New Year) is considered as important as Christmas and the Black Bun (Scotch Bun) on page 318 is the traditional cake for that night, although some people do serve it at Christmas time too.
When making these recipes based on dried fruits, choose the best quality available and buy whole pieces of crystallized peel, rather than the ready-chopped variety.
Black Bun
This consists of a rich dried fruit cake baked in a thin pastry layer. Years ago a bread dough was used to encase the filling instead of pastry. Make the cake well ahead, so the flavour can mature. Store in an airtight tin or freeze this.
Christmas Pudding
This is the most famous of all British steamed puddings, however it cannot be said to be one of our oldest dishes. Before the seventeenth century in Britain we celebrated Christmas with a type of porridge, not unlike that known in Nordic countries.
This was gradually replaced by the rich blending of dried fruits and the other good ingredients we know today. Although Christmas Pudding is so often associated with England, it is served during the festive season by the rest of Britain and countries overseas that have a link with us.
Most Christmas puddings are fairly similar and it is virtually impossible to say that any recipe is the classic one. Many households have a family recipe that has been handed down through the generations. The recipe on page 311 has been ‘tried and tested’ over the years. It has won great praise, it is rich without being too heavy, and it is full of flavour. It is not suitable for microwave cooking.
The fat used in the past was suet and this can still be chosen. Today it is often replaced by butter (or vegetarian fat) and these make a more delicate pudding.
It is not essential to make the puddings weeks ahead; the long cooking process means the flavours mature well, even when the pudding is freshly made.
Simnel Cake
This has become the cake for Easter time but originally it was made by maids to take home to their parents on Mothering Sunday. It is a rich fruit cake with marzipan through the centre and on top.
For the cake: as Dundee Cake (see page 291) but omit the almond topping.
For the marzipan: mix together 8 oz/225 g (2 cups) ground almonds, a few drops of almond essence, 110 g/4 oz (½ cup) caster sugar and 110 g/4 oz (1 cup) sifted icing sugar. Add 2 egg yolks to bind, or the whites of the eggs if you prefer a white marzipan. Take just under half the marzipan and roll it out on a sugared board to make a round very slightly under 20 cm/8 inch in diameter.
Preheat the oven and prepare the tin, as on page 291. Make the cake mixture and spoon half into the tin, add the round of marzipan and then the rest of the cake mixture. Bake as for Dundee Cake, but because of the marzipan layer it will take about 10 to 15 minutes longer to cook. Allow the cake to become cold, then brush the top with a little sieved apricot jam. Roll out most of the remaining marzipan to a 20 cm/8 inch round and place on top of the cake. With the last of the marzipan, form 11 small balls (these represent the disciples – Judas is not included). Press around the edge of the cake. Brush the marzipan with a little egg white and place under a preheated grill for a few minutes to glaze.
Hot Cross Buns
Cream 15 g/½ oz (½ cake) fresh yeast. Add 150 ml/¼ pint (⅔ cup) warm milk, or milk and water, and blend with the yeast.
Sift 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg into 350 g/12 oz (3 cups) strong (hard wheat) flour. Rub in 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) butter, add 50 g/2 oz (¼ cup) caster sugar and 100 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) mixed dried fruit. Add the yeast liquid to the flour together with 1 egg and mix well.
Knead, then prove the dough (see page 267). When the dough has risen to twice the original size knead it again.
Divide into 12 portions and form into neat balls. Place on a greased baking tray. Make deep crosses in the dough with a knife. Allow to prove again for about 20 to 25 minutes or until well risen. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7. Bake the buns for 12 minutes.
Mix 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) sugar with 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) boiling water. Brush over the buns when they come out of the oven.
Reheat these gently to serve at breakfast on Good Friday.
Variation:
The cross on the buns can be made with narrow strips of economical pastry or thin strips of crystallized peel. Add the cross and then allow the bun shapes to prove.
Easter Biscuits
Cooking time: 15 to 18 minutes Makes 10 to 12
These are traditionally made for Easter Sunday. Their special features are their size and spicy flavour.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
150 g/5 oz butter ⅝ cup
110 g/4 oz caster sugar ½ cup
225 g/8 oz plain flour 2 cups
1 teaspoon mixed spice 1 teaspoon
100 g/4 oz currants ⅔ cup
1 egg yolk 1
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Grease 2 baking trays.
Cream the butter and sugar until soft and light. Sift the flour and spice. Add to the creamed mixture with the currants and egg yolk. Mix well with a knife then gather the mixture together and knead until smooth.
Roll out on a lightly floured surface and cut into 8.5 to 10 cm/3½ to 4 inch rounds, or even a little larger. Place on the trays and bake for 15 to 18 minutes until firm. Cool on the trays for 5 minutes then remove to a wire cooling tray.
Decorating Cakes
Decorated rich Christmas cakes are comparatively modern. There are no recipes for this cake in old cookery books. A Christmas cake is usually coated with marzipan and then with royal icing, made as the recipes below. Sugar paste, which can be bought ready-made, has taken the place of royal icing in many cases, but this cannot be used to give the snow effect which is so suitable for Christmas time. The recipes below give sufficient marzipan and royal icing to cover the sides and top of the Christmas cake on page 316.
For the marzipan: to give a fairly thin layer you need 350 g/12 oz (3 cups) ground almonds, a few drops of almond essence, 175 g/6 oz (¾ cup) caster sugar, 175 g/6 oz (1⅓ cups) sifted icing sugar and 3 egg yolks, or 3 egg whites for a white marzipan. Mix the ingredients together and knead lightly then roll out on a sugared surface.
For the royal icing: lightly whisk 4 egg whites then add 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) lemon juice and 900 g/2 lb (7 cups) sifted icing sugar. Beat until smooth and shiny. This gives a fairly thick layer with enough for piping the edges.
Christmas Pudding
Cooking time: 5 to 6 hours plus time on Christmas Day Makes 2 large puddings, each serving 6 to 8 people
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
110 g/4 oz suet or butter ¼ lb or ½ cup
110 g/4 oz glacé cherries, optional ¼ lb
110 g/4 oz mixed crystallized peel ¼ lb
110 g/4 oz uncooked dried apricots, optional ½ cup
110 g/4 oz uncooked dried prunes, optional ½ cup
110 g/4 oz almonds 1 cup
1 medium carrot 1
1 medium cooking apple 1
75 g/3 oz plain flour ¾ cup
175 g/6 oz soft breadcrumbs 2½ cups
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste ½ teaspoon
½ teaspoon grated or ground nutmeg, or to taste ½ teaspoon
½ teaspoon ground allspice, or to taste ½ teaspoon
110 g/4 oz dark moist brown sugar ⅔ cup
175 g/6 oz currants 1 cup
175 g/6 oz sultanas 1 cup
350 g/12 oz raisins 2 cups
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon grated orange rind 1 teaspoon
1 tablespoon lemon juice 1½ tablespoons
1 tablespoon orange juice 1½ tablespoons
1 tablespoon black treacle 1½ tablespoons
250 ml/8 fl oz beer, stout or milk 1 cup
2 large eggs 2
Grate or finely chop the suet or melt the butter. Chop the cherries, peel, apricots and prunes. Blanch and finely chop the almonds. Peel and grate the carrot and apple. Mix all the ingredients together. Stand in a covered bowl overnight.
Grease two 1.5 litre/2½ pint (6¼ cup) ovenproof basins and spoon in the mixture. Cover the puddings with well greased greaseproof paper and foil. Put a central pleat in both covers so the pudding will not split the covering.
Steam each pudding over boiling water for 5 to 6 hours, making sure the pans do not boil dry. Top up with boiling water if necessary. When the puddings are cooked, remove the damp covers at once. When cold, cover with fresh dry greaseproof paper and foil. Store in a cool dry place, away from the steam from cooking.
On Christmas Day: steam the pudding for 2 hours. Serve with cream custard sauce, Brandy Butter or Cumberland Rum Butter (see pages 257 and 315).
Mince Pies
Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 18 to 20
Old recipes mention making oval-shaped mince pies, to recall the shape of the manger. If you decide to return to this old custom, cut out oval shapes for the bases and tops and fill these with mincemeat. Place these oval pies on flat baking sheets or tins to cook. Nowadays most people prefer to use round patty (bun) tins. Various kinds of pastry can be used to make the mince pies.
It is an old belief in Britain that one must eat at least 12 mince pies over the Christmas period to ensure 12 happy months in the year ahead.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
450 g/1 lb puff, rough puff, flaky, shortcrust or sweet shortcrust pastry 1 lb
(weight of pastry when made) (see pages 295-6)
350 to 450 g/12 oz to 1 lb mincemeat, this varies according to depths of tins ¾ to 1 lb
To glaze: egg yolk or white, optional
To decorate: icing or caster sugar
Make the pastry as the specific recipe. Roll out just over half of the dough and cut into rounds (or ovals if following the old tradition described above). Use the rest of the pastry to cut out slightly smaller rounds or oval shapes. Press the larger rounds into patty tins or place the ovals on to flat baking sheets or trays. Spoon mincemeat into the pastry bases. Moisten the edges of the pastry. Put the top lids in position and seal firmly.
You can make two slits on top for the steam to escape, but this is not essential. The pastry can be brushed with beaten egg yolk or unwhisked egg white before cooking to give a shine to the pastry.
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F, Gas Mark 7 if using puff, rough or flaky pastry. Preheat it to 200°C/400°F, Gas Mark 6 for shortcrust and 190°C/375°F, Gas Mark 5 for sweet shortcrust.
Allow approximately 20 minutes cooking, but reduce the heat slightly after 10 to 15 minutes if the pastry is becoming a little too brown. This is particularly important when using the richer pastries, which need a really hot oven at the start of the cooking time so the pastry rises well.
Top the mince pies with sifted icing sugar or caster sugar before serving. Cooked or uncooked mince pies freeze well.
Mincemeat
No cooking Makes 900 g/2 lb
Most of the old recipes for mincemeat included minced beef as an ingredient, so one had the unusual mixture of meat and dried fruits flavoured with spices. Yet another very old recipe, however, was rather like a thick marmalade, for the dried fruit and other ingredients were blended with cooked and shredded lemons. Today, most mincemeat recipes are fairly similar – a rich mixture of fruits, apple, spices, etc. The addition of brandy, whisky or rum with the fat and sugar acts as preservative. Butter gives a more delicate flavour to the mincemeat than suet.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
110 g/4 oz mixed crystallized peel ¼ lb
1 medium cooking apple 1
110 g/4 oz suet or butter ¼ lb or ½ cup
450 g/1 lb mixed dried fruit 1 lb
110 g/4 oz brown sugar, preferably Demerara ⅔ cup
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon
2 tablespoons lemon juice 2½ tablespoons
½ to 1 teaspoon ground mixed spice ½ to 1 teaspoon
¼ to ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ to ½ teaspoon
¼ to ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg ¼ to ½ teaspoon
4 tablespoons brandy, whisky or rum 6 tablespoons
Chop the crystallized peel finely, peel and grate the apple. Grate or finely chop the suet or melt the butter. Mix all the ingredients together. Spoon into dry jars and seal down firmly. Keep in a cool, dry place. Do not reduce the quantities of sugar, suet and alcohol. It is possible to freeze the mincemeat. Always allow 1 to 2 weeks out of the freezer before using, so the flavour matures.
To give additional flavour: Add 50 to 100 g/2 to 4 oz (¼ to ½ cup) finely chopped glacé cherries and 50 to 100 g/2 to 4 oz (½ to 1 cup) blanched and chopped almonds.
In addition to the cherries and almonds, add 100 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) very finely chopped tenderized dried apricots to give the mincemeat a very refreshing flavour.
Mincemeat without Alcohol: Replace the alcohol with orange juice, a mixture of orange and lemon juice, or apple juice. Use only 3 tablespoons (4½ tablespoons).
Brandy Butter
No cooking Serves 6
This is the recognized accompaniment to Christmas Pudding in most parts of Britain. The mixture should be made ahead and chilled so it is very firm. For this reason it is also known as Hard Sauce. It makes a splendid contrast to the hot Christmas Pudding. Do not freeze, for this lessens the brandy flavour.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
150 g/5 oz icing sugar generous 1 cup
100 g/4 oz unsalted butter ½ cup
few drops vanilla essence, optional few drops
2 tablespoons brandy, or amount desired 3 tablespoons
Sift the icing sugar. Cream the butter with the vanilla essence until soft and light, then add the icing sugar and beat until soft and white. Gradually beat in the brandy. This must be added slowly so the mixture does not curdle. Spoon or pipe into a dish, cover and chill well.
Variation:
Omit the essence and add 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest, and use curaçao instead of brandy.
Cumberland Rum Butter
No cooking Serves 6
This is an excellent alternative to Brandy Butter. It is so popular in Cumberland that it is made throughout the year and served on bread, in sponges and in pancakes. Chill, but do not freeze. Soft brown sugar makes a smoother mixture.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
110 g/4 oz unsalted butter ½ cup
175 g/6 oz Demerara sugar 1 cup
pinch ground cinnamon, optional pinch
pinch grated or ground nutmeg, optional pinch
2 tablespoons rum, or amount desired 3 tablespoons
Cream the butter, add the sugar and beat well. The mixture never becomes smooth, but rather granular with Demerara sugar. Gradually beat in the spices and the rum.
Rich Fruit Christmas Cake
Cooking time: approximately 3½ hours Makes 1 cake
Most European countries have some special cake for Christmas. In Britain gingerbreads (see page 281) were made for Christmas or cakes filled with crystallized fruits (see page 317). Nowadays a dark fruit cake, with a coating of marzipan and icing, is considered the perfect cake for this festival. This mixture would also be suitable for a wedding cake.
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
110 g/4 oz mixed crystallized peel ¼ lb
110 g/4 oz glacé cherries ¼ lb
110 g/4 oz uncooked dried apricots, optional ½ cup
110 g/4 oz almonds 1 cup
450 g/1 lb currants 2⅔ cups
350 g/12 oz sultanas 2 cups
350 g/12 oz raisins 2 cups
300 g/10 oz butter 1¼ cups
300 g/10 oz moist brown sugar 1⅔ cups
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 1 teaspoon
1 scant tablespoon black treacle 1 tablespoon
300 g/10 oz plain flour 2½ cups
50 g/2 oz ground almonds ½ cup
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon mixed spice ½ to 1 teaspoon
5 large eggs 5
2 tablespoons rum, brandy, sherry or milk 3 tablespoons
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Line the bottom of a 23 cm/9 inch square or 25 cm/10 inch round cake tin with brown paper, then with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Tie a deep band of brown paper around the outside.
Chop the peel, cherries and apricots. Blanch and chop the almonds. Blend all the fruits together. Cream the butter and sugar with the fruit zest and treacle. Sift the flour with the ground almonds and spices. Beat the eggs.
Gradually beat the eggs into the creamed mixture, add the flour mixture then the fruit and finally the small amount of liquid. Spoon into the tin and smooth flat on top, then press with damp knuckles, this keeps the top of the cake moist. Bake for 1½ hours, then lower the heat to 140 to 150°C/275 to 300°F, Gas Mark 1 to 2. Choose the lower setting if your oven is on the hot side. Bake for a further 2 hours or until the cake is quite silent (see page 317). Cool in the tin.
Crystallized Fruit Cake
Cooking time: approximately 3½ hours Makes 1 cake
This cake has much the same proportions as the one on page 316. The oven setting, preparation of the cake tins and baking time are similar but it is important to test rich fruit cakes carefully, see below. Here are the changes in ingredients:
Metric Imperial Ingredients American
Increase the chopped crystallized peel to 175 g/6 oz (1 cup)
the glacé cherries to 175 g/6 oz (1 cup)
the chopped, uncooked dried apricots to 175 g/6 oz (1 cup)
Omit the currants and raisins
Instead use:
175 g/6 oz (1 cup) chopped crystallized pineapple
175 g/6 oz (1 cup) chopped crystallized apricots
110 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) chopped angelica
110 g/4 oz (⅔ cup) chopped crystallized ginger
Omit the ground cinnamon and mixed spice.
Instead use: ½ to 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. Cream this with the butter.
Substitute: golden syrup for the black treacle
Testing Rich Fruit Cakes
It is very difficult to give the exact baking time for rich fruit cakes as ovens vary a great deal and this shows more with this type of cake than any other. It is important to check on the baking progress the first time you make this type of cake. After one-third of the total baking time the cake should hardly have changed colour; if it is becoming brown then lower the heat immediately. After two-thirds of the baking time it should be pale golden and nearly firm. If becoming rather dark in colour cover the top of the cake tin with a sheet of foil and lower the heat slightly. Just before the total cooking time test the cake.
A rich fruit cake can be tested by inserting a fine wooden skewer in the centre and seeing if this comes out clean, but with a high proportion of sticky dried or crystallized fruits as in the cake above, or the one on page 316, that is not always reliable. The best way to test the cake is to listen. An uncooked rich fruit cake makes a distinct humming noise. When completely cooked it is silent.
Never turn a rich fruit cake out of the tin while hot as it could break.
To Add Moisture To The Cake
Prick the cake on top with a fine wooden skewer then spoon a little rum, brandy or sherry over the top and allow it to soak in. Turn the cake over and do the same thing on the bottom. Moistening the cake in this way can be done several times before icing or serving the cake.
Black Bun (Scotch Bun)
Cooking time: 2½ hours Makes 1 cake
Metric Imperial Ingredients 
American
For the filling:
175 g/6 oz plain flour 1½ cups
½ level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda ½ teaspoon
½ level teaspoon cream of tartar ½ teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon ground cloves, or to taste ½ to 1 teaspoon
½ to 1 teaspoon allspice or ground ginger ½ to 1 teaspoon
good pinch freshly ground black pepper good pinch
110 g/4 oz mixed crystallized peel ¼ lb
225 g/8 oz almonds ½ lb
110 g/4 oz moist brown sugar, Barbados if possible ⅔ cups
550 g/1½ lb currants 4 cups
450 g/1 lb raisins 2⅔ cups
1 egg 1
4 tablespoons milk or buttermilk 6 tablespoons
2 tablespoons brandy 3 tablespoons
For the pastry:
300 g/10 oz plain flour 2½ cups
pinch salt pinch
110 g/4 oz butter ½ cup
To bind: water
To glaze: 1 egg with 1 tablespoon water
Sift the flour with the dry ingredients. Chop the peel, blanch and chop the almonds. Mix all the ingredients for the filling together. The flavour is better if the filling is covered and kept overnight in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F, Gas Mark 3. Grease a 20 cm/8 inch cake tin. Sift the flour and salt, rub in the butter then add sufficient water to make a firm dough. Roll the pastry out very thinly. Use two-thirds of the pastry to line the base and sides of the tin, make sure there are no folds in this.
Put in the filling, moisten the top edges of the pastry and place another round of pastry on top. Seal the edges but do not press this pastry cover down as the fruit filling swells in cooking. Beat the egg and water, brush over the pastry. Make a number of small holes in the top pastry with a fine skewer to allow the steam to escape during cooking. Bake the cake for 2½ hours, reducing the heat to 150°C/300°F, Gas Mark 2 after 1½ hours. Cool in the tin for 1 hour, then remove.