Simplicity is the essence of this chapter, for the egg is not only cooked in its shell, but often served in it too. It is essential to use very fresh eggs, especially if they are to be soft-boiled. I have used the same technique for boiling eggs (see Boiled eggs) since I was eighteen. It requires neither a watch nor an egg timer and it is infallible – once you’ve tried it, I am sure you will adopt it forever. Mollet eggs make delectable starters. I love to add them to a rocket (arugula) or dandelion salad, and when I’m in the South of France, I especially enjoy them in tomato nests with crunchy cucumber (see Mollet eggs in tomato nests with crunchy cucumber). Hard-boiled eggs have many uses, but they must be cooked carefully to ensure that they don’t become rubbery. I always cook them in barely simmering water at around 70ºC/150ºF to keep the texture supple. They are perfect for a quick snack or a picnic.