In a medium saucepan, bring ½ inch of water to a simmer over medium heat. Dice 2 of the parsnips and put them in the pan. Cover and cook until fork-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well, then pat dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Transfer to a food processor or high-speed blender. With the processor running, slowly add the olive oil, processing until smooth and pausing once or twice to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Put a wire rack atop a baking sheet or line a baking sheet with foil. Put the baking sheet in the oven.

Working quickly to help prevent browning, peel and grate the potatoes along with the remaining parsnip. Firmly squeeze the grated veggies in your hands over a colander set in the sink or a bowl to expel excess moisture. Transfer to a bowl, add the parsnip puree, green onions, parsley, garlic, and Sriracha and mix well. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Pour ¼ inch of olive oil into a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet. Heat over medium-high heat until the oil begins to shimmer and a tiny test fleck of the potato mixture sizzles immediately. (If it doesn’t sizzle right away, the oil isn’t hot enough and the latkes will absorb a lot more oil, making them more soggy than crisp. No bueno.) Form several patties by hand, using about ¼ cup of the mixture for each and flattening until about ½ inch thick. Carefully place them in the hot oil and fry until the bottom is crispy and dark brown, about 4 minutes. Flip and cook until the other side is dark brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the wire rack in the oven to keep warm. Once all of the latkes are cooked, serve immediately, garnishing each plate with big dollops of crema and applesauce.

Feel free to prepare the vegetarian version of Cilantro-Coconut Crema, or substitute plain sour cream or crème fraîche for the crema.

MEAN QUICHE FLORENTINE

I’ve made vegan quiches with tofu in the filling, and they tasted great, but I always wanted more from the texture. Then I found my answer, thanks to Isa Chandra Moskowitz’s splendiferous book Vegan Brunch: Homestyle Recipes Worth Waking Up For. The secret? Cashews. MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Crust

1½ cups all-purpose flour, chilled in the freezer for 30 minutes, plus more for dusting

½ teaspoon baking powder Pinch of salt

¾ cup cold nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening (such as Earth Balance) or vegan butter, cubed

½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar (optional)

2 to 6 tablespoons ice water

Filling

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large bunch spinach, stemmed, or 1 (10-ounce) package frozen spinach, thawed and drained

½ cup raw whole cashews, soaked in water for 2 hours

2 (14-ounce) packages extra-firm tofu, drained and crumbled

¼ cup Sriracha

¼ cup nutritional yeast flakes

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the crust, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the shortening and cut it in using a pastry blender or a fork. Once the shortening has more or less coated every fleck of flour, small pea-size balls of dough should begin to form. At that point, switch to a wooden spoon and stir in the vinegar and 2 tablespoons of the ice water. Mix in more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough comes together into a solid mass. Once the wooden spoon gets unwieldy, mix the dough with clean hands, taking care not to overwork it. Roll the dough into a ball, then flatten into a round disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

To make the filling, heat the oil in a cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spinach and sauté until completely wilted and its moisture has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Drain the cashews and pulse them in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the tofu, Sriracha, nutritional yeast, turmeric, and nutmeg and process until well blended and mostly smooth. Transfer to a large bowl, add the spinach mixture, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble and bake the quiche, lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie tin, trimming excess dough from the edges. Prick the dough all over with a fork. Bake for 10 minutes (this will parbake the crust).

Remove from the oven and fill with the tofu mixture, spreading it in an even layer and smoothing the top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the edges of the crust begin to brown. Let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving warm or at room temperature. Stored in the refrigerator, leftovers will keep for 3 days.

When making the filling, feel free to use 2 cups half-and-half, 1½ cup shredded Swiss cheese, and 4 eggs in place of the cashews, tofu, nutritional yeast, and turmeric. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, then add the half-and-half, cheese, Sriracha, and nutmeg and mix well. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to the parbaked crust. Bake as directed.

For the crust, use your favorite gluten-free flour or baking mix. (If the baking mix already contains salt or baking powder, omit those ingredients when mixing the dough.)

California Benedict with Sriracha-Chive Hollandaise

CALIFORNIA BENEDICT WITH SRIRACHA-CHIVE HOLLANDAISE

One of my favorite dishes from “my former life” was California Benedict, stacked high with spinach, tomato, and yummy, yummy avocado. I thought I’d have to say good-bye to it forever when I adopted a more vegan lifestyle, but Isa Chandra Moskowitz’s incredible tome Vegan Brunch: Homestyle Recipes Worth Waking Up For thankfully proved me wrong. Her “Tofu Benny” showed me the light and served as a major inspiration, smoked salt and all, for this glorious Sriracha-spiked rendition! MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Brined Tofu

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos or low-sodium soy sauce

1 teaspoon smoked salt

1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu, drained

Sriracha-Chive Hollandaise Sauce

¾ cup unsweetened almond milk

3 tablespoons Sriracha

1 tablespoon cornstarch

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1½ tablespoons nutritional yeast flakes

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon white or yellow miso (optional)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 English muffins

1 cup lightly packed spinach or arugula leaves, for serving

1 heirloom or beefsteak tomato (about the width of an English muffin), ends removed and cut into 4 thick slices

1 large, ripe Hass avocado, for garnish Minced fresh chives, for garnish

Smoked salt and freshly ground black pepper

To prepare the tofu, in a large measuring cup, combine the stock, vinegar, liquid aminos, and smoked salt and stir until the salt has dissolved. Using a large chef’s knife, split the tofu in half horizontally, then cut each piece crosswise into quarters. Put the tofu in a gallon-size ziplock bag set aside in a large bowl and pour in the marinade. Push out as much excess air as possible and seal the bag tightly. Make sure the tofu is completely submerged. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or overnight.

To make the sauce, combine the almond milk, Sriracha, cornstarch, and turmeric in a small bowl and whisk until smooth and well combined. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the chives and sauté just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the vinegar and cook for 30 seconds. Pour in the almond milk mixture and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat and simmer until thickened, about 7 minutes, whisking frequently to avoid lumps. Stir in the nutritional yeast, lemon juice, and miso. Let cool while the tofu cooks. If it cools too much, reheat gently on the stove.

To cook the tofu and assemble the dish, remove the tofu from its marinade, discarding any excess liquid. Pat dry with paper towels. Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu and cook until browned on both sides, about 15 minutes total.

In the last 5 minutes of cooking time, split and toast the English muffins. Put a muffin half on each plate, nooks and crannies facing up. Put a small handful of spinach leaves on each, followed by a slice of tomato, two pieces of the tofu, and a glorious smothering of warm sauce. (Don’t drown it though, as you want everyone to see the layers and appreciate the beauty.) Garnish with fanned slices of the avocado, a sprinkling of chives, a pinch of smoked salt, and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately.

Feel free to substitute the traditional poached egg for the tofu in this dish or, if you like, use both! (The tofu is genuinely delicious with the other ingredients in this dish.) As for the sauce, you can add Sriracha and chives to your favorite hollandaise sauce recipe, but this recipe is actually much easier than traditional hollandaise. Plus, it isn’t 90 percent butter, so it’s healthier while still tasting damn good.

Use gluten-free English muffins, hamburger buns, or any type of gluten-free bread. (If you use bread and want circular pieces, cut them out with a large round cookie cutter.)

OVER THE TOP TIP For a truly gourmet rendition (with more Sriracha!), use potato-parsnip latkes in place of the English muffins.

SRIRACHA SHAKSHUKA

Shakshuka is the most incredible breakfast fare that you’ve likely never heard of. Popular in Northern Africa and Israel, it’s a dish of eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce (see photo). I admittedly had it only once before researching and developing this vegan version, but I remember that first bite so vividly. Unfortunately, the restaurant where I had it closed down, and I’ve been pining for it ever since. Serve this beautiful breakfast with some crusty bread to mop up all the ridiculously tasty sauce. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

2 green bell peppers, cut into thin strips

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

3 sprigs thyme

1 bay leaf

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes, undrained

½ cup water

⅓ cup Sriracha

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces soft tofu, drained and cubed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Hearty rustic bread, for serving

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the bell peppers and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, cumin, paprika, thyme, and bay leaf and sauté just until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their liquid, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits that may be stuck to the skillet. Stir in the water and Sriracha. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf if you can find them easily. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Make 4 to 6 divots in the mixture, depending on the number of portions you intend to serve. Divide the tofu evenly among the divots. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper over the tofu in each divot. Cover and simmer until the tofu is heated through, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over the top, garnish with the parsley, and serve immediately.

Feel free to substitute 4 to 6 free-range eggs in place of the tofu, cracking one into each divot and taking care not to break the yolks. Cover and cook until the whites are set but the yolks are still slightly runny, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Bánh Xèo

BÁNH XÈO

My good friend Phi Nguyen’s family was instrumental in shaping my love of food and cooking. Heck, his house is where I had my first fateful taste of the almighty rooster sauce. His mom and sister are rock stars in the kitchen, and their cooking has left a massive, indelible mark on my life. Bánh xèo (loosely pronounced “bahn say-oh”) is a breakfast dish similar to a savory crêpe filled with all sorts of tasty Vietnamese treats. The turmeric that’s traditionally used gives the crêpe an omelet-like yellow hue, but with the addition of Sriracha, it becomes a beautiful, fiery orange that will surely get your taste buds excited about the adventure they’re about to embark on. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Crêpes

1½ cups rice flour (not sweet rice flour)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup coconut milk

¼ cup Sriracha

¼ to ½ cup water

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 green onions, green and white parts, sliced on the diagonal

Filling

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos or low-sodium soy sauce

1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu, drained and cubed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces shiitake, cremini, or button mushrooms, sliced

4 green onions, green and white parts, sliced on the diagonal

3 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups fresh mung bean sprouts

Large leaves of Romaine lettuce, for serving

Fresh Thai basil sprigs, for serving

Fresh cilantro sprigs, for serving

Vegan nu’ó’c châ’m sauce, for dipping

To make the crêpes, mix the rice flour, turmeric, and salt in a small bowl. Add the coconut milk and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the Sriracha and ¼ cup water. Add more water if needed to achieve a consistency that’s a bit thinner than pancake batter—liquid but not watery. Stir in the oil and green onions and set aside while you prepare the filling. (The batter can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept in the refrigerator.)

To make the filling, combine the stock, vinegar, and liquid aminos in a large measuring cup. Put the cubed tofu in a gallon-size ziplock bag set inside a large bowl and pour in the marinade. Push out as much excess air as possible and seal the bag tightly. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or overnight.

Remove the tofu from its marinade, reserving ¼ cup of the marinade and discarding the rest. Pat the tofu dry with paper towels.

Heat the oil in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tofu and mushrooms, and sauté, turning the tofu gently, until the mushrooms have given off their moisture and are slightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the green onions and sauté for 1 minute. Add the garlic and sauté just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour in the reserved marinade to deglaze the pan, using a wooden spoon to scrape up all the stubborn, tasty brown bits. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To bring it all together, preheat the oven to 200°F. Put a wire rack atop a baking sheet or line a baking sheet with foil. Put the baking sheet in the oven.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. With a ladle, stir the batter, then spoon ⅓ to ½ cup of batter into the pan, tilting and swirling the pan to make sure the batter is evenly distributed. Spoon ¼ to ½ cup of the vegetable mixture in an even layer on one half of the crêpe, leaving a border around the edges so the filling doesn’t escape when the crêpe is folded over. Cook until the edges of the crêpe begin to dry and curl slightly, about 3 minutes. Add a generous handful of mung bean sprouts atop the vegetables and fold the other half of the crêpe over the filling. Cover and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer the finished crêpe to the wire rack in the oven to keep warm.

Once all of the crêpes are cooked, serve immediately, with communal plates of lettuce leaves, basil, and cilantro and individual bowls of nuóc chấm alongside. Traditionally, diners cut off large pieces of their bánh xèo, wrap each bite in a lettuce leaf with some basil and cilantro leaves, dip it into nu’ó’c châ’m, and devour it happily.

VEGAN NU’Ó’C CHÂ’M SAUCE

Nu’ó’c chấm (loosely pronounced “nuke chum”) is the traditional dipping sauce for Vietnamese spring rolls, and its sweet, umami-rich flavor works beautifully with these lettuce cups. It certainly isn’t necessary, but if you’ve got a few extra minutes, I say go for it! MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

½ cup warm water

¼ cup sugar

¼ cup Bragg Liquid Aminos or low-sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons rice vinegar (not the seasoned variety)

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 Thai chiles, minced

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients. Let sit for at least 1 hour. If serving the same day, cover and keep at room temperature. For longer storage, refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.