When I moved to New York in the early 1970s, the only meal I ate before lunch was breakfast. I discovered the no-frills Pink Tea Cup when it was on Bleecker Street in the West Village. At the time it was a small storefront restaurant serving stick-to-your-ribs soul food. It was all about the food, with its down-home-style comfort. All the dancing we’d done all night long gave us huge breakfast appetites! We ordered, and our table was full of the works: eggs, sausage, bacon, ham, biscuits, and grits.
Unlike breakfast, brunch, the meal that is too late for breakfast and too early for lunch, was always served with Mimosas. By this time I had come of age, legally able to drink alcohol. I had brunch for the first time in a West Village restaurant not far from The Pink Tea Cup called Horn of Plenty. We would dress in our Sunday best and go there with friends as often as we could afford to. We would order Mimosas and take our time savoring our Southern-style brunch, abundant with waffles, chicken, sausage, eggs, bacon, ham, plenty of cornbread, and of course grits!
I love grits. What would a Southern breakfast or brunch be without grits? Thanks to Native Americans, we have them. Originally called “rockahomine” and then shortened by the colonists to “hominy,” grits are the coarser part of ground cornmeal. Yellow grits include the whole kernel. We probably call them grits because of their gritty texture. The “Grits Belt” runs from Texas to North Carolina and sells three-quarters of the grits sold in the entire United States. That’s a lot of grits! Grits mean so much to so many that in 2002, the state of Georgia declared grits its official food.
When we think grits, we usually think of the old-fashioned white grits. But there are stone-ground grits, yellow corn grits (also known as polenta in Italy), barley grits, and even quick grits. These are a no-no among grits purists who prefer the texture of slow-cooking grits. But I confess, I keep both in my pantry! In a fix, I’ve used quick grits and they’re just fine. Thankfully, recipes for grits have come a long way since Native Americans served them up plain, seasoned with salt and some animal fat.
New Orleans is another brunch haunt of mine. Whenever Dan and I are in New Orleans, I make time for a good, leisurely brunch, sometimes starting with a carriage ride to the restaurant. There’s something magical and romantic about a New Orleans brunch. There’s nothing like grillades and grits or barbecued shrimp. Pain perdu, a.k.a. French toast, means “lost bread,” which is usually leftover French bread that gets all dressed up with a custard-like coating and dusted with powdered sugar. It’s simple to make, and I like it with fresh strawberries and Steen’s cane syrup, the traditional syrup in New Orleans. I’ve included my recipe for Home-Style Cane Syrup, which is made with brown sugar, molasses, and white wine for added flavor. I watched my mother do wonders with leftovers. Back then, her French toast was made with stale Wonder Bread. She didn’t believe in wasting food, and neither do I.
When we have leftover turkey, just when everyone thinks they’ve seen the last of it, I turn to the Turkey Hash recipe. It’s hearty but not heavy, and usually there’s nothing left over. You can also heat up fried fish from the night before and serve it with grits, or for a change, try the recipe for Seafood Hash. The finished dish looks much more elaborate than the actual preparation and cooking time would suggest, and it’s pretty tasty any time of day.
The beauty of brunch dishes is that some of them are just right for late-night suppers. I always keep frozen biscuits in the freezer. I’ll make some alligator sausage for special occasions, cook up some grits, bake the biscuits, and folks are happy. Good food knows no time of day.
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YIELDS 16 SMALL OR 8 LARGE PATTIES
When my husband, Dan, first ate alligator meat, he didn’t ask, “What’s this?” He said, “This is good.” Alligator is what I call a clean, easy-cooking meat. It’s low in cholesterol and fat, which makes it an excellent substitute for ground chicken, turkey, or pork. For this sausage recipe, I used ground alligator tail meat, though you can easily substitute ground chicken, turkey, or pork. What I love about making homemade sausage is that you eliminate excess fat and sodium, and can be totally creative with seasonings. Alligator meat is farm raised and can be purchased at specialty seafood and meat markets or online, including cajungrocer.com and gatorama.com.
1 pound alligator tail meat, cut into chunks (see Note)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons dried sage
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, place the alligator meat and grind using the pulse button, scraping down the sides as needed. Transfer the ground alligator to a large bowl and add the garlic, thyme, sage, salt, and Creole seasoning. Mix thoroughly.
2. Shape the alligator mixture into 16 small or 8 large patties, or leave in bulk to make Alligator Sausage Gravy (recipe follows). The uncooked patties can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours or frozen for up to 6 months.
3. In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the sausage patties (in batches if necessary) and cook for about 4 minutes on each side, until browned and cooked through. Serve immediately.
Note: Do not taste the raw alligator mixture; to taste and check the seasonings, make a small patty and cook thoroughly. Refrigerate alligator meat before and between all steps. Wash hands frequently when handling raw alligator, and wash all utensils and equipment immediately after use.
YIELDS 4 CUPS
This is a quick and easy gravy that gets loads of flavor from the seasoned cooked sausage. Use the same skillet to prepare the gravy, scraping up all the tasty, brown bits for extra flavor.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound uncooked homemade Alligator Sausage (recipe above)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon Creole seasoning
Buttermilk Biscuits (see recipe on page 49), optional for serving
Cooked Alligator Sausage Patties (recipe above), optional for serving
1. In a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Crumble and add the Alligator Sausage to the skillet, cooking until completely browned and no longer pink. Using a slotted spoon, remove the Alligator Sausage to a bowl and set aside.
2. Return the skillet to medium heat and create a roux by adding the flour into the pan drippings, lightly browning while stirring constantly, until the roux begins to thicken, about 2 minutes.
3. Slowly whisk in the milk and cook, stirring constantly, until the gravy thickens. Season with the salt, pepper, and Creole seasoning. Stir in the cooked Alligator Sausage, mixing well to combine. Serve immediately, if desired over split fresh hot biscuits, with or without an Alligator Sausage Patty (recipe above).
YIELDS 16 SMALL OR 8 LARGE PATTIES
Here’s another recipe for those wanting to stay on track health-wise and still enjoy their breakfast favorites. This Turkey Sausage Gravy makes a delicious low-fat and lower-calorie alternative to regular sausage gravy. Serve this up with a batch of my Buttermilk Biscuits. No time for baking from scratch? Why not serve this up with quick-and-easy Pillsbury Grands Biscuits!
1 pound ground turkey
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh sage
1 teaspoon fennel seed
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon seasoned salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Buttermilk Biscuits (see recipe on page 49), optional for serving
Turkey Sausage Gravy (recipe follows), optional for serving
1. In a large bowl, place the ground turkey, sage, fennel seed, salt, pepper, thyme, seasoned salt, and cayenne pepper. Using your hands, knead all the ingredients together.
2. Form the turkey mixture into 16 small or 8 large patties or into a log, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours, or freeze for up to 2 months.
3. In a nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Cook the patties in batches for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until browned and cooked through. Serve immediately, with split hot Buttermilk Biscuits and Turkey Sausage Gravy if desired.
YIELDS 4½ CUPS
1 pound Turkey Sausage (recipe above)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup chicken stock or broth
1½ cups fat-free evaporated milk
¼ cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ teaspoon chopped fresh sage, optional for garnish
1. In a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Crumble and add the Turkey Sausage, cooking until completely browned and no longer pink. Using a slotted spoon, remove the Turkey Sausage to a bowl and set aside.
2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet and place over medium heat. Add the flour and stir until lightly browned. Slowly add the chicken stock, and then the milk, stirring constantly. Add the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary to thin the gravy, smoothing any lumps with a wooden spoon. Add the cooked Turkey Sausage and mix well to combine. Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnished with chopped sage if desired.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
These rich and creamy grits are soul satisfying, and Grandma would definitely approve—but only if you use old-fashioned grits! These are great with sweet or savory dishes; make up a batch of Spicy Tomato Shrimp Gravy (recipe follows) and serve on top of the grits, or serve the grits with Buttermilk Biscuits (see recipe on page 49) right out of the oven.
2½ cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup old-fashioned stone-ground grits
1. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the milk, heavy cream, butter, and salt to a simmer, stirring often to melt butter. (Do not allow mixture to boil.)
2. Slowly stir in the grits. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12 to 14 minutes or until thickened. Remove from heat and serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
In the Low Country of South Carolina, and particularly Charleston, shrimp and grits has been considered a basic breakfast for coastal fishermen and families during the shrimp season (May through December) for decades. Simply called “breakfast shrimp,” the dish consisted of a pot of grits with shrimp cooked in a little bacon grease or butter. During the past decade, this dish has been dressed up and taken out on the town to the fanciest restaurants. Not just for breakfast anymore, it is also served for brunch, lunch, and dinner.
For this recipe I use small shrimp and leave them whole, which makes for a much nicer presentation than cutting large shrimp into small pieces. I like my shrimp just cooked through. Most people like to cook it longer; you decide! If you have leftover sauce, it would add a wonderful texture and taste tucked into an omelet; in my kitchen, nothing goes to waste!
2 tablespoons butter
½ cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped celery
¼ cup chopped green bell pepper
1 cup seafood broth or stock, or bottled clam juice
One 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, drained, liquid reserved, and coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Rich and Creamy Grits (recipe above), for serving
1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the onion, garlic, celery, and bell pepper until softened, about 7 minutes.
2. Add the broth, tomatoes, and reserved tomato liquid, and bring to a boil.
3. Add the Old Bay Seasoning, black pepper, and cayenne; simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the shrimp, basil, and parsley, and simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened and the shrimp is just cooked through, about 5 to 8 minutes. Serve immediately over Rich and Creamy Grits.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
This is an easy, rather rich grits recipe using old-fashioned stone-ground grits, whose texture I prefer, though you can substitute quick-cooking grits, making sure to reduce cooking time following package directions. This is the recipe I use when we have house guests; I keep printed copies on hand to pass out upon request!
3 cups chicken stock or broth, or more as needed
1 cup old-fashioned stone-ground grits
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese
½ cup Mascarpone cheese
½ Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1. In a heavy pot or saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Slowly pour in the grits, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes, until thickened.
2. Add the heavy cream and cheeses, stirring frequently, until melted and thoroughly incorporated. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve immediately or keep warm over low heat until ready to serve. Use warm chicken stock to thin the grits if necessary.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
I read about Grillades and Grits long before I tasted them. There are many versions of this famous Louisiana dish. Many recipes call for veal, but there are also pork, beef, chicken, and even alligator versions (using tail meat thinly sliced and pounded with a meat tenderizer), as well as brown or red tomato sauce, and while the meat is almost always served with grits, there are a few who serve it with rice or mashed potatoes—you be the judge!
1½ pounds thinly sliced veal leg cutlets (sometimes labeled scaloppine)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning
¼ cup vegetable oil, or more as needed
1 cup chopped onion
¼ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped red bell pepper
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme, or 1 tablespoon fresh thyme
¼ cup white wine
2 cups beef stock or broth
Salt to taste
Creole seasoning to taste
¼ cup chopped scallion, for garnish
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
Rich and Creamy Grits (see recipe on page 11), for serving
1. Slice the veal into 2-inch strips.
2. In a shallow dish, mix together the flour and Creole seasoning. Dredge the veal strips in the seasoned flour. Set aside the extra flour.
3. In a large Dutch oven or stockpot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Cook the veal strips in batches, browning well on both sides and adding more vegetable oil if needed. Set aside the browned veal strips.
4. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper to the pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are softened but not browned. Stir in the garlic, bay leaf, and thyme, and let cook for 2 minutes.
5. Stir in the white wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to release the browned bits. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved seasoned flour and stir until the flour is combined well with the vegetables.
6. Whisk in the beef stock and cook, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, until thickened and bubbly. Season with salt and Creole seasoning if desired.
7. Place the reserved veal slices in the sauce and simmer for about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf. Serve garnished with chopped scallion and parsley over freshly cooked Rich and Creamy Grits.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
This recipe is so decadent and rich with the lobster and fontina cheese, it’s perfect for a special brunch or served as a side dish morning, noon, or night! If you happen to be in the Low Country, or around fresh seafood, crayfish work equally well!
3½ cups seafood broth or stock, or bottled clam juice
¾ cup old-fashioned stone-ground grits
2 tablespoons butter
¼ teaspoon paprika
½ cup fontina cheese, or more to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon, or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon
1 cup cooked diced lobster
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Chopped scallions, for garnish
1. In a medium saucepan, bring the seafood broth to a boil and slowly stir in the grits. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 12 to 14 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionally.
2. Stir in the butter, paprika, cheese, tarragon, and lobster. Continue cooking until the cheese is melted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped scallions.
Note: For thicker grits, decrease the amount of liquid; for thinner grits, increase the amount of liquid.
YIELDS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
For this savory side, I use quick-cooking grits. The spiced jerk seasoning is a tasty twist. Depending on the entrée the grits accompany, you can use meat, fish, or poultry stock in this recipe.
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock or broth
1½ tablespoons dried jerk seasoning, or more to taste
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup quick-cooking grits
2 tablespoons butter
¼ pound garlic herb cheese spread, such as Boursin Light
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Finely chopped scallions, for garnish
1. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock, jerk seasoning, and salt to a boil. Slowly stir in the grits. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently, until thickened.
2. Add the butter and cheese, stirring until melted. Add the parsley and stir to blend. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped scallions.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
Pain perdu—elsewhere known as French toast—is a favorite in New Orleans. The name literally translates as “lost bread.” In order to make use of day-old French bread that would otherwise have been wasted, chefs “rescued” the bread and made this delicious brunch menu classic. I prepare this recipe with French bread, and on special occasions when we have guests I substitute half-and-half for whole milk to create a richer version. I wouldn’t think of serving this elegant dish without the cane syrup!
4 large eggs
1½ cups whole milk
1½ teaspoons vanilla
¼ cup sugar
1½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Zest of 1 lemon
One 10-ounce loaf day-old French bread
4 tablespoons melted butter
¼ cup canola oil
Fresh strawberries, cleaned and quartered, for garnish
Home-Style Cane Syrup (recipe follows), for serving
Confectioners’ sugar, for garnish
Fresh mint leaves, optional for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 250°F. In a large bowl, place the eggs, milk, vanilla, sugar, nutmeg, and lemon zest. Blend the mixture together with a wire whisk until combined, and pour into a 9 × 13 × 2-inch metal or ceramic baking pan. Slice the bread on the bias into 1-inch-thick slices (you should have 12 pieces). Place the bread pieces into the egg mixture, let soak for 5 minutes, then turn the slices over and soak the flip sides for another 5 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight.
2. In a small bowl, pour the melted butter and canola oil, and stir well to combine. Using a pastry brush, spread about 2 tablespoons of the butter/oil mixture on a nonstick griddle or skillet over medium-high heat. Place 4 prepared bread slices at a time on the griddle and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes per side, just until pieces are golden brown and crispy on the outside.
3. Remove the slices to a cookie sheet; place in the preheated oven to keep warm. Continue cooking the rest of the prepared bread slices in the butter/oil mixture until done.
4. To serve, place 2 slices of pain perdu on each plate and garnish with fresh strawberries. Drizzle with a generous portion of warmed cane syrup and a dusting of confectioners’ sugar. Garnish each plate with fresh mint leaves, if desired.
YIELDS ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Traditionally, Steen’s-brand syrup is served with pain perdu. It is made with pure sugarcane juice that’s slow-simmered for hours in open kettles until the brown, caramel-type syrup develops with a hint of molasses flavor. This home-style sweet wine-based syrup adds that hint of Southern tradition to your breakfast or brunch.
¾ cup water, divided
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon molasses
1. In a medium saucepan, pour ½ cup of the water, the white wine, and brown sugar; stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Meanwhile, pour the remaining ¼ cup water in a measuring cup. Add the cornstarch and molasses; stir well to combine.
3. When the brown sugar mixture boils, reduce heat to simmer and slowly add the cornstarch mixture. Stir constantly with a wire whisk until lightly thickened (if you like your syrup thicker, continue to simmer until desired thickness is achieved). Serve the syrup warm with Pain Perdu.
Note: You can make the syrup ahead and store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Before serving, gently heat the syrup in the microwave oven to warm through.
YIELDS 6 WAFFLES
One of my very best friends, who is originally from Louisiana, loves pecans. I can remember so clearly that each time she came into my restaurant in New York for brunch, she just had to have a small bowl of chopped pecans to sprinkle on her waffles. I created this recipe with her in mind, and hope you like it as much as I know she will! Serve with Home-Style Cane Syrup (see recipe on page 19) or maple syrup.
¾ cup sifted all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, separated
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1¼ cups whole milk
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
½ cup chopped pecans
Pecan halves, for garnish
Fresh mint leaves, optional for garnish
1. In a large bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together.
2. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until thickened. Add the milk and melted butter to the egg mixture and stir well to combine. Stir the egg mixture into the dry ingredients. Add the chopped pecans and mix until blended.
3. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold gently into the batter.
4. Pour about ½ cup of the batter into a waffle iron and let cook until browned and crisp, about 4 minutes. (Cooking time and quantity of batter will vary with different waffle irons, so follow manufacturer’s instructions.) Repeat for remaining waffles. Serve garnished with mint leaves, if desired.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Growing up, smothered chicken livers were always comfort food for me, and they still are today. Chicken livers are pretty rich, so I don’t have them often, but when I do, I serve them over a bed of brown or white rice, mashed potatoes, or Rich and Creamy Grits.
2 cups low-sodium chicken stock or broth
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried sage
1 bay leaf
1 pound chicken livers, trimmed, cleaned, and split
½ teaspoon seasoned salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
½ cup chopped green bell pepper
Red pepper flakes to taste
Chopped scallions or minced fresh parsley, for garnish
Cooked brown or white rice, mashed potatoes, or Rich and Creamy Grits (see recipe on page 11), optional for serving
1. In a small pan, pour the chicken broth. Add the thyme, sage, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.
2. Rinse the chicken livers in cool water, pat dry with paper towels, and sprinkle with the seasoned salt and pepper.
3. Lightly dredge the chicken livers in the flour, shaking off excess.
4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the butter and vegetable oil over medium-high heat until hot. In batches, add the chicken livers and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Remove the livers to a serving platter and cover to keep warm.
5. Add the onion and bell pepper to the skillet, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are just softened. Stir in the chicken broth to cover, bring to a boil, and add the chicken livers. Reduce heat, stirring often for about 3 minutes, until the livers are cooked through and the liquid has thickened to a gravy. Discard the bay leaf. Add red pepper flakes to taste, and serve immediately over cooked brown or white rice, mashed potatoes, or Rich and Creamy Grits if desired, garnished with chopped scallions or minced parsley.
YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
A real Southern breakfast is a decadence that we just can’t indulge all of the time. For those who are very conscious about weight and health, this Turkey Andouille Sausage and Cheese Grits Casserole is a lighter version of a few of my favorites. You can’t beat the flavor of fresh turkey andouille sausage. For this recipe, it should be removed from the casing, crumbled, and cooked before being added to the grits.
3 cups low-sodium chicken stock or broth
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup uncooked quick grits
1½ cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing pan
2 eggs, beaten
½ pound cooked crumbled turkey andouille sausage
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Hot pepper sauce to taste, optional
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter the inside of a 2-quart casserole or 8-inch square baking dish, or coat with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a large saucepan, heat the chicken broth and salt to boiling over high heat. Slowly stir in the grits and reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3. Remove pan from heat; stir in 1 cup of the cheese and the butter, stirring until melted. Set aside to cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the eggs, sausage, parsley, and hot sauce, if using. Pour the grits mixture into the prepared casserole and spread evenly.
5. Bake uncovered for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the top evenly with the remaining ½ cup of cheese. Continue baking until the center is slightly puffed and set (when a knife comes out clean or it springs back when lightly pressed) and the top is golden brown, about 20 minutes.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
This is a good dish to make with leftover turkey and fresh mushrooms. Hash is a Southern breakfast staple. Fresh Lacy-Edged Batty Cakes (see recipe on page 24) or Buttermilk Biscuits (see recipe on page 49) are a must to accompany this savory, healthy hash!
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup finely diced onion
½ cup diced celery
¼ cup finely diced green bell pepper
½ pound fresh mushrooms, sliced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups turkey or chicken stock or broth
4 cups finely diced or shredded roasted turkey
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup heavy cream, as needed
1. In a large skillet, melt the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper, and stir for 5 minutes, until vegetables are soft. Add the mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, until the mushrooms are cooked and the liquid has evaporated.
2. Stir in the flour, incorporating well, then add the stock or broth to the pan. Stir with a whisk until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens slightly, and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low.
3. Add the turkey, parsley, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper. Simmer, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the hash is heated through. If it looks a little dry, add heavy cream by the tablespoonful until the hash reaches the desired consistency. Serve immediately.
YIELDS ABOUT TWENTY-FOUR 2-INCH CAKES
In an online edition of John Thorne’s book Simple Recipes, he gives instructions to make Southern Lacy-Edge Corn Cakes, and the headnote reads, “There are various recipes for this corn cake, made famous by the once-annual ‘Batty Cake Brekfus’ on the morning of the Kentucky Derby, where they were served along with ‘sawsidges, ‘lasses, sputterin’ coffee and fried apples.’”
¾ cup white cornmeal
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 egg, slightly beaten
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled slightly
Vegetable oil, for cooking as needed
1. In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
2. In a separate bowl, combine the buttermilk and egg. Stir in the cornmeal mixture until the cornmeal absorbs the liquid. Gently fold in the melted butter.
3. Preheat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, and lightly oil the surface. Using 1 tablespoon of batter for each cake, fry 4 at a time for 2 to 3 minutes, until cakes begin to bubble and bottoms are golden. Flip the cakes with a spatula and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer, until golden. Serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
I am a bit spoiled: I like to prepare this dish in the summertime when we’re in Sag Harbor, because after all, it is a historical fishing village. For this recipe, use cooked, skinned, and boned fresh or leftover fish of your choice—just about any combination works. Years ago, I would have flavored this hash with salt pork or bacon. Now, to keep the sodium and fat content low, I use Old Bay Seasoning and salt-free fish seasonings that can be found in the seasoning section of your grocery store. Even without the added pork, this hash really adds a new twist on a classic brunch staple.
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium sweet yellow onion, diced
½ cup diced green bell pepper
1¾ cups diced boiled potatoes
¼ teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning
½ teaspoon salt-free fish seasoning, or to taste
½ teaspoon white pepper
½ cup diced cooked scallops
½ cup cooked fish, skinned, boned, and flaked
¾ cup diced cooked shrimp
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chopped scallions and fresh minced parsley, for garnish
1. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, potatoes, Old Bay Seasoning, fish seasoning, and white pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes, until vegetables are cooked and lightly browned.
2. Stir in the scallops, fish, and shrimp, and cook until the fish is heated through. Add the cayenne pepper, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings. Place on a warm platter and serve immediately, garnished with scallions and parsley.