In our small town in western Pennsylvania, there was just one small store and it sold everything. The owner’s name was John, and he usually could be found working behind the meat counter. Everyone referred to him as John the Butcher. My father didn’t hunt, so if John the Butcher didn’t have it, we didn’t eat it. I didn’t eat venison until I was a grown woman. Our family had an account at John’s and when my mother had to work late, on my way home after school I would buy the meat for dinner. Often, I bought liver, because I loved liver smothered with onions and I knew how to make it. I’d make plenty of rice, too. I ate so much rice, my mother used to call me “Geechee” after the Gullah of Low Country South Carolina. The Gullah are ancestors of enslaved Africans who came from rice-growing regions in West Africa. Their rice-growing skills created a successful rice business in the South.
When I first went on the road with the Ebony Fashion Fair, I discovered soul-satisfying dishes like chicken fried steak. As much as I loved chicken fried steak and its comforting powers, I had to learn moderation quickly.
The Southern love affair with meat began with the early settlers. They had to hunt for their dinner and there was plenty to hunt. White-tailed deer, rabbits, squirrels, cattle, and the almighty hog were in abundance. No part of the animal was off-limits. No popular Southern dish demonstrates this more than chitterlings. I’ve included two recipes; one is basic and was how my mom prepared them, with plenty of vinegar, while the other brings a taste of sophistication to this down-home favorite using shallots and white wine.
The Baby Back Ribs with Southern Dry Rub are simple and come out tasting just as good baked in your oven or over charcoal. I’m careful about the cuts of pork I eat. Pork chops are fine because they don’t have to be fatty. They’re an easy meat to cook with and absorb seasonings well. The recipe for Pork Chops with Glazed Sweet Potatoes is comforting, with a wonderful savory/sweet flavor. The Cajun Fried Pork Chops have a tasty kick. Ham Steak with Red Eye Gravy needs no occasion, nor does Bourbon Brown Sugar–Brushed Ham Loaf.
I don’t remember having lamb until I lived in New York. Some of my favorite recipes, Pecan Roasted Rack of Lamb and Madeira-Braised Leg of Spring Lamb, are both rich in aroma and flavor. When I first came to New York, it didn’t take me long to get used to eating lamb whenever I wanted; no special occasion was necessary. A friend of mine used to call me Lamb Chop.
Jerk seasoning has gone mainstream and beyond chicken. Jerk-Spiced Beef Tenderloin is easy to make because jerk spices are now accessible. When I went to Jamaica to shoot my show with Mama Marley Booker (she taught me how to make a vegetable dish called “rundown”), I visited Walkerswood Caribbean Foods in St. Ann. Their Traditional Jerk Seasoning is outstanding, as are their other spices, and they’re easy to find.
The variety of meats available to us on a daily basis has come a long way since I shopped at John the Butcher. If you don’t find them at the butcher, you can go online and what you want is a click away. And anyway, who has time to hunt for dinner?
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YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
I love baby back ribs prepared with a spiced dry rub. These ribs are first rubbed with a flavorful mix of spices and sugar, and are cooked dry with no basting sauces or mops during cooking; they are grilled over hickory chips for added flavor. If you have the time, coat the meat with the dry rub the night before.
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1/3 cup sweet paprika
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Hickory wood chips or chunks, for grilling
3 slabs pork back ribs, about 1½ pounds each
1. To make the dry rub, in a small bowl, mix together the paprikas, salt, brown sugar, pepper, chili powder, garlic powder, onion powder, and cayenne. Set aside. (See Note.)
2. Soak hickory wood chips or chunks in a large pan of water. Prepare a 200°F to 250°F indirect charcoal fire on an outdoor charcoal grill. Place a large handful of the soaked wood chips on the charcoal, or if using a gas grill, fill a smoker box with wood chips.
3. Using a small paring knife, remove the membrane from the underside of the ribs. In a small bowl, place 1 cup of the dry rub, and set aside the remainder for another use (see Note). Use caution not to contaminate the unused dry rub with raw meat juices. Liberally coat both sides of the ribs with rub. Stack the ribs on a large baking sheet and let sit for about 30 minutes at room temperature.
4. Place the ribs on the grill rib-side-down and allow to cook over indirect low heat for about 4 to 5 hours, until the meat is tender and pulls easily from the bone. Turn the ribs about every 45 minutes during the cooking time. During this time the heat will need to be replenished with hot coals and soaked hard wood. Serve the ribs hot from the grill.
Note: Make a double batch of dry rub; it can be stored in a sealed container in the pantry for up to 3 months. I like to use it for meat, poultry, and fish.
YIELDS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Rabbit has become quite popular again. The meat is fine grained and mild flavored, and can be prepared in recipes much like young poultry. Here I’ve brined the meat and then added lots of vegetables and spices; the beer takes it over the top—not only does it tenderize the meat, it gives great flavor, too!
2 cups hot water
½ cup kosher salt
¼ cup granulated sugar
2 cups cold water
One 3- to 3½-pound rabbit, rinsed and cut into 8 pieces
4 slices bacon
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
¼ cup finely chopped green bell pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon dry mustard
1 cup dark beer
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 sprigs fresh thyme
16 peeled pearl or cipollini onions
16 peeled baby carrots
1 cup button mushrooms, stems trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley, preferably Italian flat-leaf variety
1. To make the brine, in a large bowl, dissolve the kosher salt and granulated sugar in the hot water; add the cold water, and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. Place the rabbit pieces in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag resting in a bowl; add the brine to the bag, seal the bag tightly, and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.
2. In a large heavy skillet, fry the bacon over medium heat, turning the slices frequently with tongs until they are crisp and brown and have rendered all of their fat. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, then crumble it into small bits and set aside. Reserve the skillet with bacon fat.
3. Remove the rabbit pieces from the brine, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. In a shallow dish, place the flour and dredge one piece of rabbit at a time to coat lightly, then shake off the excess flour.
4. Place the reserved skillet with bacon fat over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit skin-side-down in the fat in the skillet, turning frequently, about 5 minutes on each side. Transfer the cooked rabbit to a plate.
5. Add the butter or olive oil to the remaining bacon fat in the skillet and heat over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, green pepper, and garlic to the skillet; stirring frequently, cook until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Stir the brown sugar and mustard into the pan. Add the beer, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, pearl onions, and carrots; bring to a boil over high heat, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom and sides of the skillet.
6. Return the rabbit and the accumulated juices from the plate to the skillet. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the pan. Continue simmering, covered, for about 15 more minutes, or until the rabbit is tender and shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small sharp knife. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
7. To serve, arrange the rabbit in a large heated bowl or platter; ladle the sauce and vegetables over it. Garnish the top with the reserved bacon bits and chopped parsley, and serve immediately.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
Authentic aged Virginia ham has a rich mahogany color and firm texture, and is highly flavorful. Smithfield, Virginia’s ham capital, was named after Arthur Smith, who owned the land the town was founded on in 1752. The soil was too poor for tobacco-growing but was perfect for growing peanuts, which the hogs loved to eat. For this ham loaf, I use two types of ham. Virginia ham is drier, more like country ham, and smoked ham is more moist, sometimes injected with water or natural juices. If only Virginia ham is available, it is fine to substitute for the smoked ham.
Vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray, for greasing pans
1 pound cooked Virginia ham
½ pound cooked smoked ham
1 cup cooked mashed potatoes
2 eggs, well beaten
1 medium onion, chopped
¾ cup plain breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons milk
½ cup Bourbon Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce (see recipe on page 232), divided
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Whole cloves, if desired
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8½ × 4½ × 2½-inch loaf pan or 6 individual 4½ × 2½ × 1½-inch loaf pans with vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a food processor or blender, grind both hams to desired consistency.
3. In a large bowl, mix the Virginia ham and smoked ham together. Add the mashed potatoes and mix well to combine. Stir in the eggs, onion, breadcrumbs, milk, 2 tablespoons of the Bourbon Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce, the salt, and pepper. Turn the ham mixture into the prepared pan or pans and press down to remove air pockets. Insert whole cloves across the surface, if desired. Spread the remaining barbecue sauce over the top.
4. Bake the large loaf at 350°F for 50 to 60 minutes, or the smaller loaves for 40 to 45 minutes, until brown around the edges. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Choose thick, bone-in pork chops, which are very flavorful and retain moisture during cooking. Spice them up with a generous sprinkling of Cajun or Creole seasoning. Serve with Warm Cabbage Cashew Apple Slaw (see recipe on page 119) or your favorite side dishes.
Four 1-inch-thick bone-in pork chops
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 teaspoons Cajun or Creole seasoning, or to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1. Sprinkle both sides of the pork chops with salt and pepper. Using 1 teaspoon per chop, coat both sides of each chop with the Cajun or Creole seasoning.
2. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pork chops and cook for 5 to 6 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Remove the chops to a warm platter and serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Chicken Fried Steak is also known as Country Fried Steak. Thin-cut, bottom round steak is pounded with a meat mallet, dredged in seasoned flour, and pan-fried like chicken, more often than not served with a cream gravy, vegetables, biscuits, and mashed potatoes.
1¼ cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1¼ pounds bottom round steak, ¼ to ½ inch thick
½ cup vegetable oil, for frying
2½ cups whole milk
1 tablespoon chili powder
¾ teaspoon celery salt
1 cube beef bouillon, crumbled
1. In a shallow bowl, combine 1 cup of the flour with the salt, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper; set aside. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs and remaining ¼ cup flour.
2. Cut the steak into 4 pieces and pound each with a meat mallet until about ¼ inch thick. Dredge the steaks first in the flour mixture, then in the egg mixture, then back in the flour mixture. Place the coated steaks on a wax paper–lined baking sheet and refrigerate for 20 minutes to allow coating to set. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the leftover flour mixture.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry the coated steaks until golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side. Remove the steaks from the skillet, transfer to a platter, and keep warm while making the gravy.
4. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the skillet, and whisk in 2 tablespoons of the leftover flour mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the flour is browned. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the milk, chili powder, celery salt, and crumbled bouillon cube. Return pan to the heat and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, until gravy thickens. Serve immediately over Chicken Fried Steak.
For a lighter version of Chicken Fried Steak, use egg substitute or egg whites instead of eggs for the coating. Substitute fat-free evaporated milk for the regular milk in the gravy. To reduce the salt content, replace the celery salt with ½ teaspoon celery seed, and use low-sodium beef bouillon.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
When I was growing up, “chitlins” (pigs’ intestines) were always on the table New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and any other time my parents had a taste and the time to prepare them. Cleaning the chitterlings is always time-consuming, especially for large crowds. These days they can be purchased cleaned and precooked, but I prefer to clean and cook them myself. Thaw the chitterlings, then remove as much of the fat as possible when cleaning them to prepare this recipe.
10 pounds frozen or fresh chitterlings
1 cup cider vinegar, divided
1 tablespoon salt
1½ cups cubed potato
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 bay leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Hot sauce, to taste
1. Thaw then clean the chitterlings in slightly warm water. Remove the fat and any residue. Drain and rinse the chitterlings in cold water until the water runs clean. In a large pot, place the chitterlings, add cold water to cover, add ½ cup of the vinegar, and soak for 1 hour or up to 24 hours, refrigerated.
2. Drain the chitterlings, place in a large pot, add water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer slowly, removing juices as they accumulate (see Note).
3. Stir in the remaining vinegar, the salt, potatoes, onions, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and crushed red pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and cover, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Allow the chitterlings to simmer for 3½ to 4 hours, until tender. Remove the bay leaves and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and hot sauce. Serve immediately.
Note: Cooking chitterlings usually produces a large amount of liquid. I prefer to remove as much liquid as possible while cooking and return the liquid only as needed.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
10 pounds chitterlings, drained
½ cup cider vinegar
2 to 3 shallots, sliced
½ cup white wine
½ cup chicken stock or broth
Seasoned salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Follow steps 1 and 2 of above recipe, reserving a small amount of the cooking fat.
2. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, sauté the sliced shallots in a small amount of chitterling fat over medium heat. Add the cooked chitterlings, turn up the heat, and stir well. Add the white wine, chicken stock, seasoned salt, and pepper to the pot. Simmer for about 12 minutes, tossing the chit-terlings frequently with tongs. Serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Tender beef steaks glazed with a dark, shiny peppercorn sauce make an elegant, special-occasion dish. A mix of black, green, white, and even pink or red peppercorns works well for this dish, but if a blend is not available, all black peppercorns or a mix of any variety of peppercorns works just as well.
4 filet mignon steaks, 4 to 6 ounces each
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
5 tablespoons butter, divided
1 tablespoon minced shallots
¼ cup red wine
¾ cup beef stock or broth
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons cracked peppercorn medley of black, green, and white peppercorns
1. Preheat oven to 200°F and place an ovenproof platter in the oven. Season the steaks with the salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes.
2. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat until hot and bubbly. Add the steaks and cook for 4 minutes per side for medium rare, or longer until desired doneness. When cooked, place the steaks on the warm platter in the oven while the sauce is prepared.
3. In the same skillet, lower heat to medium. Add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes, until softened. Add the red wine, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Allow the wine to cook and reduce for about 2 minutes. Stir in the beef stock, mustard, and peppercorns. Raise heat to bring the sauce to a boil, and cook for about 5 minutes, until sauce is reduced by half. Slowly whisk in the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter, one tablespoon at a time, to blend.
4. When the sauce is thickened to gravy consistency, taste to adjust seasonings. Pour the sauce over the steaks and serve immediately.
YIELDS 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
This recipe can be made with leftover ham or bone-in or boneless ham steak; applewood smoked ham is a great choice. I add cream to the gravy to mellow out the strong flavors; it is perfect served over grits or polenta anytime of the day.
One 1½-pound bone-in or boneless cooked ham steak, about 1 inch thick
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, as needed
1/8 to ¼ teaspoon finely grated bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, optional
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 to 2 teaspoons instant coffee granules, or to taste
1½ cups very hot water
1 to 3 tablespoons heavy cream, or more to taste
1. Trim off fat from the ham; dice the fat and set aside the ham steak.
2. In a large skillet, cook the fat over low heat until it renders 1 tablespoon of drippings, then discard the solids. Alternatively, if the ham is particularly lean, melt 2 tablespoons butter in the pan.
3. In a small bowl, combine the dark chocolate if using and the cinnamon; rub the mixture onto both sides of the ham steak.
4. Add the ham to the skillet, and cook over medium heat for approximately 2 minutes on each side, until browned and warmed through. Transfer the ham to a plate and cover loosely with foil to keep warm.
5. In a measuring cup, dissolve the instant coffee in the very hot water. Add the coffee to the skillet, raise heat to medium-high, and boil for about 5 minutes, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the heavy cream and cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens to gravy consistency. Pour the gravy over the ham and serve immediately.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
Pork tenderloin is a great cut of meat, as it is inexpensive, highly versatile, and succulent. With no bone and little fat, there is no waste, and it is delicious when barbecued.
2 pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each), trimmed of fat
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Barbecue sauce of choice (see recipes in Chapter 10, or store-bought), for serving
1. Preheat an outdoor gas or charcoal grill or indoor grill to medium heat. Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Place the pork on the grill, cover, and cook, turning once during cooking, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until internal temperature reaches 155°F to 160°F on a meat thermometer.
2. Remove the pork to a platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing, to retain juices. Serve with your favorite barbecue sauce passed on the side.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
This is essentially the same recipe as above, but the pork is basted with barbecue sauce while cooking. Prepare one of the flavorful homemade barbecue sauces from this book, such as B’s Sweet Maple Barbecue Sauce (page 231), Bourbon Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce (page 232), Low-Sugar Maple Barbecue Sauce (page 233), or Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce (page 234), or use a store-bought sauce for quicker preparation.
1 cup barbecue sauce of choice (see recipes in Chapter 10, or store-bought), plus additional sauce for serving
2 pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each), trimmed of fat
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare barbecue sauce of choice, and pour 1 cup of the sauce into a small bowl.
2. Preheat an outdoor gas or charcoal grill or indoor grill to medium. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Place the pork on the grill, cover, and cook, basting it with the barbecue sauce every 10 minutes, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 155°F to 160°F on a meat thermometer. Discard leftover basting sauce. Remove the pork to a platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing, to retain juices. Serve the sliced pork with additional barbecue sauce passed on the side.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
I’ve been cooking with jerk seasoning for years. My family and friends love the flavors! Begin marinating the beef at least 8 hours before roasting. This tenderloin can be served warm or at room temperature at any time of the day. Add more seasoning if your guests like it hot!
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1¾ tablespoons dried jerk seasoning
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 small bay leaves, crumbled finely
1½ large cloves garlic, minced
One 1½-pound beef tenderloin roast, preferably thick end
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, jerk seasoning, vinegar, bay leaves, and garlic. Pierce the beef tenderloin all over with a fork. Place the tenderloin in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag; add the marinade and seal the bag tightly. Turn the bag to distribute marinade evenly over meat. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 1 day, turning occasionally.
2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove the beef from the marinade and pat dry. Place the beef on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the tenderloin registers 130°F for rare, about 30 minutes, or longer until desired doneness. Remove pan from oven; allow the beef to rest for 10 minutes to retain juices. Slice the beef crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices and serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Lamb shanks come in a variety of sizes. Smaller ones, known as foreshanks, are the leanest cut, and are close to a pound; larger ones will need a bit more cooking to become tender. Lamb often has a strong flavor, which is mellowed out quite well with the herbs and spices in this recipe.
4 lamb shanks, about 1 pound each
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons chopped fennel sprigs, optional
2 to 3 strips orange zest, white pith removed
1 small bay leaf
One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 cup white wine
1 cup chicken, beef, or vegetable stock or broth
1 large fennel bulb, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1. Trim excess fat from the lamb shanks and discard the fat. Generously season the shanks with salt and pepper. In a large heavy stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, cook the lamb shanks for about 10 minutes, until well browned on all sides. Transfer them to a large bowl or plate.
2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan and set over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, until golden. Add the garlic, rosemary, chopped fennel sprigs (if using), orange zest, and bay leaf to the pot and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice, the wine, and broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
3. Return the lamb to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 1½ hours, turning and repositioning the shanks occasionally so they braise evenly. Add the fennel bulb and carrots to the pot and turn the lamb one last time. Simmer for about 30 minutes more, until the lamb and vegetables are just tender.
4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb and vegetables to a serving platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Skim off any fat from the pan juices. Boil the juices over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, until slightly reduced. Discard the bay leaf. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the lamb and vegetables, and serve immediately.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS
Leg of lamb is a traditional holiday roast generally served in the spring, giving it the name “spring lamb.” Try this recipe for boneless leg of spring lamb braised with Madeira, a flavorful Portuguese wine; if fresh sage, thyme, rosemary, and mint are available, nothing beats the flavor combination!
One 4- to 5-pound boneless leg of spring lamb, rolled and tied
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter
2 onions, quartered
4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (a combination of sage, thyme, and rosemary), or 1½ teaspoons mixed dried herbs
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups beef stock or broth
¾ cup Madeira wine
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
1. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a large heavy pot, heat the butter over medium-high heat. Sear the lamb for about 15 minutes, until well browned on all sides. Transfer the lamb to a large plate.
2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan and set over medium heat. Add the onions and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, for about 12 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and well browned.
3. Add the garlic, herbs, and flour to the pan and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Stir in the broth and Madeira, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
4. Return the lamb to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently, turning the lamb occasionally to braise evenly, for about 2½ to 3 hours, until tender. Transfer the lamb to a platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm.
5. Strain the juices from the vegetables into a medium saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables to release their juices, and then discard the solids.
6. Skim off any fat from the juices in the saucepan. Bring the juices to a boil and cook for about 5 to 10 minutes, until the sauce is slightly thickened and glossy. Stir in the chopped mint and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce into a gravy boat.
7. Remove the strings from the lamb, cut into ½-inch-thick slices, and serve immediately with the sauce passed on the side.
YIELDS 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
When marinating the venison with the butter mixture up to 24 hours before roasting, the herbs won’t infuse as well with the solidified butter, but the flavors will definitely develop and infuse the meat. I also like roasting the leg with the solidified butter, as it keeps the seasonings from immediately sliding off. If you do this, it’s best to simply pepper the roast beforehand, save the salt for just before roasting, and spread the butter over the entire leg (not just the top).
One 6- to 8-pound bone-in venison roast
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 large onions, chopped
3 celery stalks, sliced
2½ cups dry red wine
2 cups beef or chicken stock or broth
¾ cup dried cherries
1 tablespoon honey
¾ teaspoon balsamic vinegar
One 2-inch strip lemon zest
1. Generously season the venison roast with salt and ground black pepper. Cover the venison and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
2. Remove the venison from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Place the venison on a rack in a roasting pan.
3. In a small bowl, combine the butter, garlic, parsley, thyme, and oregano.
4. Preheat oven to 450°F. Spread the butter mixture evenly over the top of the venison. Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and add the onion, celery, and wine to the pan. Roast, basting occasionally with the pan juices, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the roast registers 120°F to 130°F for rare to medium rare, about 13 minutes per pound, or longer until desired doneness.
5. Remove the roast to a platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Set the roasting pan over high heat. Add the broth to the pan and boil, scraping up any browned bits, until the sauce is reduced to about 3 cups.
6. Strain the sauce into a medium saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables to release their juices, and then discard the solids. Set the saucepan over high heat and add the cherries, honey, vinegar, and lemon zest. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes, until the cherries are plump and the sauce is slightly thickened. Season with salt and ground black pepper and pour the sauce into a gravy boat.
7. Slice the roast and serve with the sauce passed on the side.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
These elegant, delicious lamb chops can be served as hors d’oeuvres or as a main course. Ask your butcher to “french” the lamb, which means cutting the meat away from the end of a rib or chop so that part of the bone is exposed. The meat looks more elegant, and it facilitates holding the rib chop if you choose to pick it up to eat it, which is perfectly acceptable etiquette. A very large pan—such as a 14-inch sauté pan—is needed to sear both racks simultaneously. Otherwise, you may need to sear the racks of lamb one at a time.
Two 1¼- to 1½-pound racks of lamb, for a total of 16 chops (8 per rack)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 large sprigs fresh rosemary, stems removed and leaves chopped fine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (see Note)
½ cup finely chopped pecans
1 cup water, or beef or chicken stock or broth
½ cup ruby port
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Trim the lamb of excess fat. Season the racks of lamb well with salt, pepper, and rosemary.
2. In a very large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear the racks of lamb fat-side-down (with bones curving upward) for 3 minutes, then turn and sear other side for 3 minutes. Remove the lamb from the skillet and place on a rack in a large roasting pan.
3. In a small bowl, stir the brown sugar into the pomegranate molasses and brush on the lamb. Sprinkle the lamb with the chopped pecans. Roast the lamb in the oven until the internal temperature with a meat thermometer registers 130°F for medium rare, about 15 to 20 minutes, or longer until desired doneness. Remove the lamb from the oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes to retain juices.
4. Meanwhile, over medium-high heat, deglaze the skillet with the cup of water or stock and the ruby port, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Allow the sauce to heat thoroughly, cook down slightly, and thicken.
5. Carve the roast, serving 4 lamb chops per person on each plate with the sauce spooned over the top.
Note: Pomegranate molasses is a specialty ingredient that can be found in gourmet stores, or can be made easily at home (see Box).
1 cup pomegranate juice
¾ cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1. In a small saucepan, heat the pomegranate juice over medium-high heat. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice until dissolved.
2. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until the liquid is reduced to ½ cup, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
3. Place in a resealable container and refrigerate until ready to use.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
If you are preparing this meal to impress, be sure to purchase one-pound bone-in pork chops. Brining the chops in advance of cooking results in a juicy, flavorful chop that won’t dry out during cooking. The sweet potatoes and squash can be prepared in advance by parboiling them (see Box) a day or two ahead. You can also use bourbon instead of rum for the sauce.
2 cups sugar, divided
2/3 cup plus 2½ tablespoons kosher salt
10 cups warm water
4 bone-in loin pork chops (about 1 pound each, 1½ to 2 inches thick)
½ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons cornstarch
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
1 cup cold water
¼ cup rum
7 tablespoons butter, divided
1 large sweet potato, parboiled, peeled, and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 1 pound uncooked, unpeeled)
½ of an average butternut squash (about a 1-pound uncooked, unpeeled squash), peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes, and parboiled
1/3 cup raisins or Craisins
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
One 11-ounce can mandarin oranges in light syrup, drained
1. To brine the pork chops, in a large bowl combine 1¼ cups of the sugar, the kosher salt, and 10 cups warm water; stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the pork chops to the brine mixture, cover, and refrigerate at least 12 hours, turning once or twice while brining.
2. In a large saucepan, stir together the nutmeg, cinnamon, cornstarch, ¾ cup of the sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Over medium heat, whisk in the orange juice, 1 cup cold water, and the rum; blend ingredients well. Add 6 tablespoons of the butter, stirring until melted. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Add the sweet potatoes, squash, and raisins to the sauce; toss gently to coat well. Set aside.
3. Preheat oven to 375°F. Remove the pork from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brining liquid. Sprinkle the pork with pepper, if desired.
4. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Sear the pork on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side, in batches if the pan is too crowded. Place the seared pork in a large baking pan. Spoon the potato and sauce mixture on top.
5. In the same skillet, add the bacon pieces and cook over medium-high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes, turning, until brown and crisp. Crumble the bacon and set aside.
6. Place the baking pan with the pork in oven and bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until pork juices run clear and the meat is no longer pink along the bone when pierced with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the mandarin oranges on top, then bake for 2 minutes longer until oranges are heated through. Garnish with the crumbled bacon. Serve immediately.
When dense vegetables such as potatoes or winter squash are baked in a casserole, it’s best to parboil them first to ensure they cook thoroughly during baking. Parboil sweet potatoes whole, with skin on, in boiling salted water just until fork tender. Butternut squash is available year round; peel the squash and cut it into cubes, place in a saucepan with water to cover, then boil for about 5 to 8 minutes, just until fork tender. Parboiled vegetables can be prepared a day or two in advance; cover and refrigerate until using.
YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Purchase a fresh pork shoulder with the skin for this recipe, which calls for a flavorful paste-like marinade rubbed over the entire shoulder and under the skin. The slow roasting brings out the flavors of the herbs and spices, while the meats remains moist, tender, and delicious.
4 cloves garlic
1 medium onion, quartered
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, or 1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons peanut, vegetable, or canola oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
One 4- to 7-pound pork shoulder, skin on
1. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the garlic, onion, oregano, salt, and pepper. Drizzle in the oil, scraping down the sides as necessary. Add the vinegar and process until combined. Rub the mixture well over the pork shoulder and under the skin. Cover the pork and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove the pork shoulder from the refrigerator and place on a rack in a large roasting pan. Roast the pork for about 3 hours, turning every 30 minutes or so and basting with the pan juices, until the skin is crisp and the internal temperature reaches between 150°F and 160°F on a meat thermometer. Allow the meat to rest for 10 to 15 minutes to retain juices before slicing.
3. While the meat is resting, place the roasting pan over medium-high heat and deglaze the pan with 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, stirring to loosen up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for about 10 minutes, until the sauce is slightly thickened. Strain the sauce and pour into a gravy boat.
4. Slice the pork and serve with the sauce passed on the side.
YIELDS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
When I was young, one of my all-time favorite beverages was my family’s homemade root beer. After tasting a pulled pork sandwich in North Carolina, I was inspired to create this recipe using lots of spices, root beer, and barbecue sauce. My friends and family approve!
2 pounds fresh boneless pork butt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, more to taste
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1¼ cups root beer
1¼ cups barbecue sauce
1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Trim the excess fat from the pork butt. In a small bowl, mix together the pepper, kosher salt, cumin, thyme, sage, chili powder, paprika, mustard, and garlic powder. Rub the pork with an even coating of the seasoning mix.
2. In a heavy ovenproof pot or small Dutch oven (the pork should fit snugly in the pan), heat the oil. Sear the meat over medium heat, browning well on all sides, about 4 minutes per side. Add the root beer (the liquid should come about 1/3 of the way up the meat), and cover the pot with a lid.
3. Place the pot in the oven and bake for 1 hour, then turn the meat over. Cover and continue baking until the meat is tender enough to shred, about 1 more hour.
4. Remove the pot from the oven. In a large bowl, shred the pork using 2 forks (you should have about 4 cups of shredded meat). Skim the fat from the pan juices, and stir in the pork and barbecue sauce. Place the pan uncovered in the oven, and bake for about 30 minutes, until the juices thicken. Serve immediately.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS
Who doesn’t love succulent baby lamb chops? I serve them often at my cocktail parties. In this recipe I use Crosse & Blackwell mint-flavored apple jelly, fresh rosemary, and a squeeze of lime to create a flavorful marinade. The combination of watermelon and mint make for a cool, refreshing side to these sweet, savory lamb chops.
One 12-ounce jar mint-flavored apple jelly
¼ cup finely chopped garlic (about 10 cloves)
¼ cup finely chopped fresh rosemary
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1¼ teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
1¼ teaspoons salt
16 rib lamb chops (about 2 ounces each) Watermelon Mint Salad (see recipe on page 120), for serving
1. In a small saucepan, melt the jelly over medium heat; stirring well until liquefied. Remove from heat.
2. Stir the garlic, rosemary, lime juice, vinegar, pepper, and salt into the melted jelly. Pour the marinade mixture into a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag. Add the lamb to the marinade; seal the bag tightly and toss to coat the lamb well. Refrigerate laying bag flat on a shelf, allowing the lamb to marinate overnight, or at least 12 hours.
3. Line a broiler pan with foil. Remove the lamb from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Place the lamb on the prepared broiler pan so the clean bone ends are facing in the same direction. Meanwhile, pour the reserved marinade into a small saucepan. Simmer over medium heat for about 20 to 25 minutes, until the sauce is thickened.
4. Preheat oven to broil. Place the lamb in the broiler and cook for about 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium rare, or longer to desired doneness. (You may want to cover the clean bone ends of the lamb chops lightly with foil halfway through cooking to prevent burning.) Drizzle the sauce over the lamb and serve immediately, with Watermelon Mint Salad on the side.
YIELDS 8 SERVINGS
When I have dinner parties, I prepare food to impress. It’s not often that venison, which can be any one of several varieties of deer, is on the menu. Have the butcher butterfly the venison loin (one less thing for you to do!). The fruit stuffing has lots of flavor and looks beautiful when the roulade is sliced and served.
4 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1¼ cups dried chopped fruit of choice (such as cherries, apricots, or raisins)
2/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1½ teaspoons finely grated orange zest
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
3 tablespoons bourbon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 slices stale cinnamon-raisin bread, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 1½ cups)
½ cup chopped toasted pecans
3 tablespoons orange marmalade
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon honey mustard
½ venison loin (about 2 to 2 ½ pounds), trimmed and cut in a tri-fold butterfly
1. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and celery, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until tender but not browned. Add the dried fruit, orange juice, orange zest, cinnamon, and ginger. Cook, stirring frequently, over medium-low heat for about 4 minutes, until the fruit is tender and the orange juice is reduced to about 3 tablespoons.
2. Remove pan from heat and stir in the bourbon, salt, and pepper. Add the cubed bread and pecans. Toss gently until the ingredients are blended and the bread is moistened. Set aside to cool.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F. In a small bowl, stir together the marmalade, brown sugar, and honey mustard. Set aside.
4. Position the butterflied venison loin cut-side-down on a work surface. Slightly flatten the loin (it will be about 9 × 11 inches); season with salt and pepper. Spread the cooled stuffing mixture over the meat. Beginning with the short end, roll up the loin and tie with kitchen twine or secure with metal skewers.
5. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Place the venison roulade on the prepared pan and roast for 15 minutes. Spoon the glaze over the top of the roulade and continue roasting for 10 to 20 minutes longer, until the outside is a rich brown and a meat thermometer inserted near the center reads 135°F to 140°F for medium rare, or 140°F to 145°F for medium. Remove the roulade from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes before removing twine or skewers. Cut the roulade into ½-inch slices and serve immediately.
