Chapter 9

Sides

To me, sides are accessories; they should complement and embellish a meal. I can’t think of another American cuisine that has the wonderful array of side dishes that Southern cuisine offers from all its different regions. Southern cooks have a knack for taking one ingredient and cooking it in a number of ways alone or as part of a dish. For example, okra can be stewed, grilled, steamed, or blanched; a corn pudding can be sweet or savory; a cup of rice can be dirty or hoppin’ with beans.

A genuine Southern meal always comes with plenty of sides. Colonists in the South showed off their wealth at meal times with an abundance of food for their guests. There may have been three different main-course meat dishes and triple or more the amount of sides. That’s called Southern hospitality, and it still rules to this day at a Southern table. There’s plenty to choose from, and no one leaves the table hungry.

My mother prepared side dishes as if she’d lived her whole life in the Deep South. She made the best collard greens. Try the Southern-Style Collard Greens recipe and you’ll taste what I mean. As good as my mom’s greens were, she didn’t have to force us to eat our vegetables! What I love most about vegetables is that they can be prepared so many ways. I like to sauté chopped mustards, collards, kale, and garlic. However, if I’m having guests who want a take-me-back-to-mama experience, I serve them greens Southern style. Most people are so busy they don’t have the time to come home from work and make a pot of greens the old-fashioned way. The Winter Greens recipe calls for collard, kale, and turnip greens, but you can substitute your favorite greens. For seasoning, I prefer smoked turkey to bacon or salt pork (no one seems to be missing them).

My mother and father canned vegetables from the garden, so we ate everything all year round. These days everything seems to grow year round, and of course you can buy frozen or canned foods. I prefer fresh and always recommend it before anything else. You can prepare Maque Choux, a traditional corn dish from Louisiana, with frozen corn, but it won’t give you that delicious milk that only fresh corn yields. Tomatoes grow all year round, but to me, there’s nothing like the tomatoes we buy from farm stands on Long Island during the summer. Stewed Okra, Corn, and Tomatoes is great prepared with all fresh vegetables, but if you don’t have them, canned works well, too.

My family loves puddings, sweet or savory. The Tomato Bread Pudding and the corn puddings can go either way. They add a nice texture and color to a meal. I can’t remember a Thanksgiving without a corn pudding.

Many of my friends have either cut down on eating meat or have stopped altogether. You never know when a newly minted vegetarian or vegan is going to show up. No need to panic if there are several sides that’ll ensure something for everybody. The Herbed Quinoa Pilaf is high in protein and pairs well with many of the sides in this chapter. In Louisiana, Brabant potatoes are deep-fried. In my kitchen, they’re oven-roasted until they’re a golden brown.

One thing’s for sure about the richness of Southern cooking: there are many sides to this great story.

Oven-Roasted Brabant Potatoes

205

Broccoli and Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Red Peppers

206

Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Pecans

207

Cinnamon-Spiced Carrots

208

Dijon Mashed Potatoes

209

Herbed Quinoa Pilaf

210

Hoppin’ John

211

Macaroni and a Plethora of Cheeses

212

Parsnip Purée

214

Red Beans and Rice

215

Southern-Style Collard Greens

217

Winter Greens

219

Savory Corn Pudding

220

Sweet Bourbon Corn Pudding

221

Tomato Bread Pudding

222

Maque Choux

224

Stewed Okra, Corn, and Tomatoes

225

Succotash

226

Oven-Roasted Brabant Potatoes

YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

I first tasted Brabant potatoes during one of those huge New Orleans brunches. Back then, the potatoes were fried and very tasty, but I think this recipe will spark folks to convert and come on over to this oven-roasted version. They’re tossed with olive oil, baked to a golden brown, then perfectly seasoned to serve with fish, poultry, or meat, morning, noon, or night!

1½ pounds red-skinned potatoes, quartered

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt, divided

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons butter

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon Creole seasoning

¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss the quartered potatoes with the olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the black pepper. Spread on a large rimmed baking sheet, turning a cut side of each potato down on the sheet.

2. Place in the oven and roast for 25 minutes, then stir the potatoes and continue to roast for 5 to 10 minutes more, until they are golden brown.

3. While the potatoes are roasting, in a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Stir in the garlic and allow to cook over very low heat for about 3 minutes, until fragrant. Add the Worcestershire sauce, Creole seasoning, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt.

4. When the potatoes are cooked, place them in a large serving bowl or on a large platter. Pour the butter mixture evenly over the potatoes. Sprinkle with the parsley and scallions, and stir gently to coat the potatoes fully. Serve immediately.

Broccoli and Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Red Peppers

YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

I love mixing mild-flavored broccoli with its bitter but zesty-flavored cousin, broccoli rabe. The red bell peppers can be roasted and the broccoli blanched a day ahead, leaving just the sautéing to do before serving. This dish is equally delicious served right off the stove or at room temperature. Double the recipe and serve on a large platter, buffet style!

2 medium red bell peppers

1½pounds broccoli, stems trimmed, crowns cut into small florets

1 pound broccoli rabe (about 1 large bunch), tough stems trimmed, tops and leaves coarsely chopped

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. To roast the bell peppers, char the whole peppers directly over a gas flame or in the broiler until blackened on all sides. Enclose the peppers in a paper bag for 10 minutes. Peel and seed the peppers, then cut into ¼-inch-wide strips. (Roasted peppers can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate until using.)

2. Working in batches, in large heavy pot of boiling salted water, cook the broccoli and broccoli rabe until just crisp-tender, about 3 minutes per batch.

3. Using a large slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the vegetables to a bowl of ice water to cool and retain the bright green color. Drain well. (Blanched broccoli and and broccoli rabe can be prepared 1 day ahead. Wrap them in paper towels; enclose in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag and refrigerate.)

4. Discard the broccoli cooking liquid and heat the olive oil in the same large pot over medium-high heat. Add the garlic; cook, stirring frequently, for about 1 minute, until golden. Add the blanched broccoli and broccoli rabe to the pot; toss until coated with garlic oil and heated through, about 5 minutes.

5. Add the roasted red pepper strips to the pan; toss well to blend. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to a serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Pecans

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

Here is a recipe for Brussels sprouts with brown sugar and pecans, which add sweetness and crunch, that will turn the taste buds of the most fervent sprout hater into “I’ll have an extra helping, please.”

¼ cup chopped pecans

1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved

2 tablespoons butter

¼ teaspoon seasoned salt

1 tablespoon brown sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large skillet, toast the pecans over medium heat for about 8 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Remove from pan and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, remove any wilted outer leaves from the Brussels sprouts and cut off the stems. Soak the sprouts in cold water and drain well.

3. Using the same skillet, melt the butter over medium heat until bubbly. Add the Brussels sprouts and seasoned salt. Stir and cook, tossing frequently, for about 8 to 10 minutes, until barely tender.

4. Add the brown sugar, pepper, and reserved pecans to the skillet. Toss the Brussels sprouts to coat and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 more minutes, until the sugar is melted and the Brussels sprouts are coated in the melted sugar and pecans. Transfer to a warm serving bowl and serve immediately.

Cinnamon-Spiced Carrots

YIELDS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This is a quick and easy recipe, and cutting the carrots into matchstick-size pieces makes the dish look sophisticated, with just the right amount of sass from the honey, cider, and cinnamon.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound fresh carrots, peeled and cut into matchstick-size pieces

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/3 cup apple cider or juice

2 tablespoons honey, or less to taste

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large nonstick skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the carrots, cinnamon, and apple cider. Bring to a boil, cover, and steam for about 5 minutes, until the carrots are just tender but not overcooked.

2. Remove the cover, add the honey, salt, and pepper, and continue to cook over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes more, stirring frequently, until the carrots are nicely glazed and tender but still al dente. Transfer the carrots to a warm serving dish and serve immediately.

Dijon Mashed Potatoes

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

Everyone loves mashed potatoes, a true comfort food. The addition of rich, creamy buttermilk and Dijon mustard has everyone going back for seconds. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley, delicate chives, or scallions.

2 pounds (about 4 to 5 medium) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes

½ cup buttermilk

2 tablespoons butter

2 to 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, or more to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped fresh parsley, chives, or scallions, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, place the cubed potatoes. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

2. Drain the potatoes and place back in the pan or in a large bowl. Add the buttermilk, butter, and mustard, and mash until creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with parsley, chives, or scallions.

Herbed Quinoa Pilaf

YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

The Incas called quinoa “the mother grain.” Today, this ancient South American grain is being heralded as the super-grain of the future. Quinoa is sold at natural food stores and some supermarkets. It has a nutty flavor and is a good source of protein. Dressed up with olive oil and lemon juice, then tossed with toasted pine nuts, dried cranberries, chopped red onions, and basil, it’s a tasty and unusual side dish or addition to your buffet spread!

2 cups (about 9 ounces) quinoa

4½ cups water

1/8 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

¾ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

¼ cup chopped dried cranberries

3 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ cup chopped fresh basil

1. Place the quinoa in a large strainer. Rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. Transfer the quinoa to a large saucepan, and add the water and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is tender.

2. Transfer the quinoa to a large bowl and fluff with a fork. Stir in the olive oil and lemon juice. Let cool to room temperature.

3. Mix the pine nuts, cranberries, and red onion into the quinoa. Season with salt and pepper. (Recipe can be prepared up to this point 6 hours ahead. Cover and chill until serving.) Mix in the fresh basil, and serve at room temperature.

Hoppin’ John

YIELDS 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Eating Hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day is a Southern tradition thought to bring good luck. The black-eyed peas in this dish signify coins. Add a side of collards, the color of dollar bills, and you’ve got a great meal and hopefully a year of prosperity.

This recipe easily can be reduced by half, and every cook prepares it differently. In the past, I’ve used salt pork and smoked turkey to flavor this dish. Lately, I like the flavor of Applegate Farms certified organic Spicy Andouille Chicken and Turkey Sausage in this recipe, and my family and friends have yet to ask, “Where’s the pork?”

2 cups dried black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 pound andouille chicken or turkey sausage, diced

1 large onion, chopped

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups chicken stock or broth

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon seasoned salt

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 cups uncooked long-grain white rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. The day before serving, place the black-eyed peas in a large bowl. Cover with water and let soak overnight. Drain and rinse thoroughly. Or, to quick-soak the peas, place them in a large pot or Dutch oven, cover with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, cover tightly, and let stand for 1 hour, then drain.

2. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat and sauté the sausage, onion, bell pepper, and garlic, for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened.

3. Add the chicken stock, bay leaves, thyme, seasoned salt, and red pepper flakes to the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 1 hour, until the black-eyed peas are tender.

4. Add the rice to the pot, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and continue cooking for 15 to 20 minutes, until the rice is cooked.

5. Remove the bay leaves and place Hoppin’ John in a warm serving dish. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve immediately.

Macaroni and a Plethora of Cheeses

YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This is not your everyday mac and cheese. Serve this on special occasions when you want to impress your guests. It’s prepared with a plethora of cheeses, each one adding distinctive flavors, and finished with a soul-satisfying breadcrumb topping if you prefer it baked as a casserole, or it can simply be served hot off the stove without the topping.

1 pound corkscrew pasta (rotini or cavatappi, see box)

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided, plus more for greasing pan

1 medium onion, finely chopped

½ cup white wine

2½ cups heavy cream

2½ cups grated cheddar cheese, divided

¾ cup grated Monterey jack cheese

¾ cup grated mozzarella cheese

¾ cup grated Swiss cheese

½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ cup plain breadcrumbs, optional

1. If baking the macaroni, preheat oven to 375°F and butter a 2-quart baking dish or a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan.

2. Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain the pasta, place in a large bowl, and toss with the olive oil.

3. In a large pot, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft and golden. Add the wine and allow to reduce by half, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream and allow to reduce slightly, for 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Stir in 1½ cups of the cheddar, the Monterey jack, mozzarella, Swiss, and Parmigiano cheese, and remove pot from heat. Add the cooked pasta to the pot and stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, or for baked macaroni, pour the coated pasta evenly into the prepared baking dish.

5. To make the topping, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. In a small bowl, mix the bread-crumbs with the melted butter. Evenly sprinkle the top of the pasta with the remaining 1 cup cheddar, then the buttered breadcrumbs. Sprinkle the top with salt and pepper.

6. Bake the macaroni for 25 to 30 minutes, until the breadcrumbs are golden brown and the cheddar is melted.

Cavatappi Pasta

In the New York restaurant, we use cavatappi, which has a corkscrew shape and slight ridges that help the sauce adhere to the noodle.

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Parsnip Purée

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

Parsnips are a root vegetable that is available year round. With a hint of sweetness and a pinch of spice, parsnips can be boiled, steamed, roasted, braised, or mashed. This parsnip purée is a wonderful alternative to mashed potatoes.

2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 to 3 tablespoons chicken stock or broth

1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, or more to taste

Chopped fresh chives, optional for garnish

1. In a large pot, cover the parsnips with cold water. Place over high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and gently simmer the parsnips for about 15 minutes, until tender.

2. Drain the parsnips and return them to the pot. Cook over low heat, shaking, until most of the water has evaporated.

3. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade or using a potato masher, purée the hot parsnips with the butter and chicken stock until smooth. Season with the salt and white pepper and serve immediately, garnished with chopped chives if desired.

Red Beans and Rice

YIELDS 8 SERVINGS

Louis Armstrong signed autographs with the sentiment “Red Beans and Ricely Yours.” This should give you a sense of the significance this dish has for Southerners. Traditionally it was made on Mondays, which was wash day. Women could keep an eye on a pot on the stove while getting their laundry done. Most recipes for red beans and rice use the leftover ham bones from Sunday supper, which add a great layer of flavor. For a fresh twist on the classic dish, carrots add color to the beans. If desired, substitute chopped andouille sausage for part or all of the ham, or use half sausage and half ham. I like to serve mine with a bottle of hot sauce on the side for anyone wanting a little extra kick!

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, minced

¾ cup chopped celery

¾ cup chopped carrots

1 cup chopped red or green bell pepper

1 fresh jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped

8 ounces (about 2 cups) chopped ham

2 teaspoons hot paprika

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon dried oregano

¾ teaspoon ground cumin

¾ teaspoon salt

4 cups chicken stock or broth

Two 15-ounce cans red kidney beans, drained, or 3 cups cooked red kidney beans

One 15-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped

½ cup uncooked long-grain white rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped scallions, optional for garnish

1. In a Dutch oven or large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for about 3 minutes, until softened.

2. Add the celery, carrots, bell pepper, jalapeño, ham, paprika, thyme, basil, oregano, cumin, and salt to the pot. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the chicken broth, kidney beans, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer partially covered for 45 minutes.

4. Stir the rice into the pot. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Stir again, replace the cover, and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the rice is soft and the liquid is absorbed. (The rice might have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pot, so be sure to stir a few times while cooking the beans and rice together.) Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately garnished with scallions, if desired.

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Southern-Style Collard Greens

YIELDS 8 SERVINGS

Collard greens are one of the oldest members of the cabbage family. This recipe is reminiscent of my mother’s. She seemed to let her greens simmer away for hours! I make mine with ham hocks, which help tenderize the greens and add flavor, along with a little brown sugar to take away any bitterness. A lot of Southern families serve their greens with a side of bread to dip in the cooking broth, known as pot-likker. The broth is packed with vitamins and refers to the leftover “liquor” in the pot, after your greens have cooked. It not only tastes good—it’s really good for you!

4 smoked ham hocks

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 bay leaves

4 pounds collard greens

Chicken stock or broth, or water, as needed

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Rinse the ham hocks and score the skin in several places. In a heavy 8- to 10-quart pot, combine the hocks, onion, and bay leaves with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours, until the hocks are falling apart.

2. Remove the ham hocks from the cooking liquid and reserve the meat, discarding the bones, skin, and fat. Strain the cooking liquid, skim off the fat, and return it to the pot. (To skim as much fat as possible, see Box.)

3. While the ham hocks are cooking, remove the stems from the collard greens and roughly chop; set aside.

4. Add enough chicken stock or water to the cooking liquid to make 6 cups. Add the chopped collard greens, brown sugar, red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, and reserved ham. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the greens are very tender. Serve immediately.

Defatting Ham Hocks

Since ham hocks tend to be a bit fatty, you can prepare them ahead to remove as much fat as possible. Once you have finished cooking them off, remove the pot from the heat, allow it to cool to room temperature, then cover and place the pot in the refrigerator. Allow the hock mixture to chill for at least an hour or overnight so the fat comes to the top. Skim off all excess fat before proceeding with the recipe.

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Winter Greens

YIELDS 8 SERVINGS

One side dish that takes its place at most Southern dinner tables is a “mess o’ greens,” which refers to the large quantity most families cook up. This recipe calls for a combination of collard, kale, and turnip greens, which are available year round. Smoked turkey gives them a nice layer of flavor. I like to serve this recipe around the holidays, because it’s easy to prepare and a real crowd pleaser!

¼ cup olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, sliced

8 cups chicken or turkey stock or broth

3 bay leaves

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons dried thyme

6 pounds collard, kale, and turnip greens, cleaned and chopped

3 cups chopped smoked turkey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. In a large heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for about 3 to 4 minutes, until softened. Add the chicken or turkey stock, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, and thyme. Simmer for 12 minutes.

2. Add the greens and smoked turkey to the pot. Simmer uncovered until the greens are tender. Remove the bay leaves, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

Savory Corn Pudding

YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This is a savory pudding with fresh chives, though feel free to add a combination of your favorite herbs. When possible, use fresh corn kernels cut off the cob. Using a knife, scrape the cob after removing the kernels to get all the pulp and milk to add their creamy flavor to the dish.

3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

3 large eggs, beaten

1½ cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1/3 cup chopped fresh chives

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine the corn, eggs, heavy cream, sugar, salt, white pepper, and chives, and stir to mix thoroughly. Pour into a buttered 8-inch glass baking dish.

2. Bake the corn pudding for 45 to 48 minutes, until the edges are browned and the pudding is slightly puffed, the center jiggles like gelatin when the pan is nudged, or the tip of a knife comes out clean from the center. Serve immediately.

Removing Corn from the Cob

When cooking recipes with corn, nothing beats the flavor and texture of fresh corn from the cob. To remove corn kernels from the cob quickly and easily, use a bowl or Bundt pan to catch all the corn and its flavorful milk. Place the cob in the center to give you a little support and leverage, and using a sharp knife, slice down the sides of the cob to remove the kernels. Then, scrape the dull edge of the knife down the cob to extract as much pulp and juice as possible. The kernels and milk will collect neatly in the bowl.

Sweet Bourbon Corn Pudding

YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This continues to be one of my family’s favorite recipes. The casserole is great served at the dinner table, and it’s a big hit when I serve it buffet style. If you prefer not to use bourbon in this recipe, replace it with 2 tablespoons of water to dissolve the cornstarch.

2 large eggs

¾ cup evaporated milk

2 cups canned cream-style corn

2 cups fresh corn kernels; or canned corn, drained; or frozen corn, thawed and drained

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons bourbon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-inch square or 6-cup baking dish.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and the evaporated milk together. Stir in the cream-style corn, corn kernels, melted butter, brown sugar, cornstarch mixture, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Stir well to combine.

3. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Bake for 45 to 48 minutes, or until slightly browned and the tip of a small knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve immediately.

Tomato Bread Pudding

YIELDS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Bread puddings are versatile enough to be made into desserts, or sweet or savory side dishes. This one is perfect to serve as a side with any meal, or on a buffet for a weekend brunch. I like to use fresh tomatoes when in season, but there are a number of good canned varieties on the market that also work well. For a special occasion, try using a combination of garden-fresh heirloom tomatoes—they look beautiful, and taste even better!

One 28-ounce can plum tomatoes with juices, or 3½ cups stewed fresh tomatoes (see Box)

1¼ cups chicken stock or broth

¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon dry mustard

¼ teaspoon garlic powder, or 2 cloves fresh minced garlic

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 to 4 leaves fresh basil, roughly chopped, plus more for garnish if desired, or 1 tablespoon dried basil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

8 slices best-quality crusty white or whole-wheat bread, crusts removed, cut into

¾-inch cubes, approximately 8 cups

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium saucepan, place the tomatoes with their juices, crushing them with your fingers as you place them in the pan. Add the stock, brown sugar, cinnamon, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium and cook until the mixture has thickened and the sugar has dissolved, about 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust the seasoning, then fold in the basil.

2. Brush the inside of an 11 × 7-inch baking dish with some of the melted butter. Arrange the bread cubes in the dish in an even layer and drizzle with the remaining butter. Pour the tomato mixture over the bread, and gently stir so the tomato is evenly incorporated into the bread.

3. Place the dish on the center rack of the oven and bake for about 45 minutes, until the pudding is golden and firm to the touch.

4. Remove the baking dish from the oven. Allow the pudding to cool for about 10 minutes and then serve immediately or at room temperature, garnished with fresh basil if desired. Or allow pudding to cool completely, cover, and refrigerate overnight, then bring it to room temperature and reheat before serving.

Using Fresh Tomatoes Instead of Canned

When in season, especially in the summertime, fresh heirloom or plum tomatoes can be substituted for canned tomatoes in dishes that call for them. Simply remove the stems, and peel and seed the whole tomatoes. Place the tomatoes in a heavy saucepan over medium heat and let simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender. Allow to cool before proceeding with recipe, or store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Maque Choux

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

This is a vegetarian version of Maque Choux, but it can be prepared with bacon or ham. Whenever possible, use fresh corn off the cob for this recipe. Be sure to scrape the cob after cutting off the kernels, adding the pulp and milk to the mix. If using frozen corn, add a tablespoon or more of heavy cream to add richness.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onion

½ cup chopped green bell pepper

4 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

Fresh chopped basil or thyme, to taste

2 cups chopped plum tomatoes

½ cup vegetable or chicken stock or broth

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ cup sliced scallions, for garnish

1. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, until softened.

2. Stir in the corn, basil, tomatoes, stock, white pepper, and cayenne. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are cooked. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately, garnished with the scallions.

Stewed Okra, Corn, and Tomatoes

YIELDS 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This stew is easy to make and takes very little time to prepare, so I like to put it on the menu when I’m shopping for fresh produce and find fresh okra, corn on the cob, and large ripe tomatoes. Garnish with crumbled bacon and serve with warm cornbread fresh from the oven.

1 pound fresh okra

4 strips smoked bacon, diced

2 cloves garlic, sliced

1 medium onion, sliced

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

2 cups fresh corn, or frozen corn, thawed and drained

1 bay leaf

3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

½ cup vegetable broth or stock, or water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Rinse the okra, trim away the stems, and slice each pod crosswise into about ½-inch pieces. Set aside.

2. In a large skillet or large pot over medium-high heat, fry the bacon for about 5 to 6 minutes, until crisp and brown. Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the skillet, leaving the bacon fat in the pan. Drain the cooked bacon on paper towels and set aside.

3. Add the garlic, onion, and bell pepper to the skillet and reduce the heat to medium. Sauté, stirring frequently, for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the vegetables are soft.

4. Add the okra, corn, and bay leaf to the skillet. Cover the skillet and reduce the heat to low. Cook gently, stirring from time to time, for about 3 to 4 minutes.

5. Add the tomatoes and vegetable broth or water to the skillet. Cook for about 10 minutes, or longer if you prefer the okra to be softer. Remove the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with reserved crumbled bacon pieces.

Succotash

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

Succotash is a quick and easy dish to prepare. Fresh vegetables are my favorite for this recipe, but frozen or canned will do. If fresh lima beans are not available, use frozen lima beans that have been thawed, and cut the cooking time to 10 minutes. Use this as a basic recipe and get creative: add chopped kale, green peas, or beans, spice it up with Cajun or Creole seasoning, and/or garnish with a crumble of ham or bacon.

2 cups fresh lima beans, skin removed by blanching and transferring to cold water

4 ears fresh sweet corn

½ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup finely chopped scallions

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

1. In a large saucepan, place the skinned lima beans in just enough salted water to prevent sticking; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 25 minutes, until almost tender. Check frequently and add more water as needed. Drain if necessary before proceeding.

2. Using a sharp knife, cut the corn kernels from the cob, and scrape the cobs with the dull edge of the knife to extract the milk. Add the corn and its juices to the lima beans and stir in the heavy cream. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the butter, scallions, salt, and pepper, stirring well to combine. Heat the Succotash thoroughly and serve immediately, garnished with fresh parsley.