Getting around

Getting around Sri Lanka is very much a tale of two halves. The construction of the island’s ever-expanding expressway network (see above) has given Sri Lanka its biggest infrastructure upgrade since colonial times and speeded up access to some parts of the country immeasurably. Equally, recent railway improvements mean that major inter-city expresses are now both swift and comfortable. Away from the expressways and major train lines, however, getting around many parts of the island can still be a frustratingly time-consuming process.

Buses are the standard (and often the fastest) means of transport, with services reaching even the remotest corners of the island. Trains offer a more relaxed means of getting about and will get you to many parts of the country – eventually. If you don’t want to put up with the vagaries of public transport, hiring a car and driver can prove a reasonably affordable and extremely convenient way of seeing the island in relative comfort. If you’re really in a rush, domestic flights operated by Cinnamon Air and Helitours offer speedy connections between Colombo and other parts of the island.

Details of getting around by bike and specialist cycle tours are covered in the “Sports and outdoor activities” section.

By bus

Buses are the staple mode of transport in Sri Lanka, and any town of even the remotest consequence will be served by fairly regular connections. Buses come in a variety of forms. The basic distinction is between government or SLTB (Sri Lanka Transport Board) buses and private services.

SLTB buses

Almost all SLTB buses are rattling old TATA vehicles, usually painted red. These are often the oldest and slowest vehicles on the road, but can be slightly more comfortable than private buses in that the conductor won’t feel the same compulsion to squeeze as many passengers on board, or the driver to thrash the vehicle flat out in order to get to the next stop ahead of competing vehicles (accidents caused by rival bus drivers racing one another are not unknown).

Private buses

Private buses come in different forms. At their most basic, they’re essentially the same as SLTB buses, consisting of large, arthritic old rust buckets that stop everywhere; the only difference is that private buses will usually be painted white and emblazoned with the stickers of whichever company runs them. Some private companies operate slightly faster services, large buses known variously as “semi-express”, “express” or “intercity”, which (in theory at least) make fewer stops en route.

At the top end of the scale, private minibuses – often described as “express” and/or “luxury” services (although the description should be taken with a large pinch of salt) – offer the fastest way of getting around. These are smaller vehicles with air-conditioning and tinted, curtained windows; luggage usually ends up in the space next to the driver (since there’s nowhere else for it to go), although some conductors might make you put it on the seat next to you, and then charge you an extra fare. In theory, express minibuses only make limited stops at major bus stations en route, although in practice it’s up to the driver and/or conductor as to where they stop and for how long, and how many people they’re willing to cram in.

Fares, timetables and stops

Bus fares, on both private and SLTB services, are extremely low. For journeys on non-express buses, count on around Rs.60–70 per hour’s travel, rising to around Rs.100–120 on express minibuses (more if travelling along an expressway – the Colombo to Galle bus costs around Rs.400). Note that on the latter you may have to pay the full fare for the entire route served by the bus, irrespective of where you get off. If you do want to get off before the end of the journey, let the driver/conductor know when you board.

Exact timings for buses are difficult to pin down. Longer-distance services operate (in theory, at least) according to set timetables; shorter-distance services tend to simply leave when full. Note that on all routes there tend to be considerably more buses early in the day, and that most services tail off over the course of the afternoon. The details given in the “Arrival and departure” sections in the Guide are an estimate of the total number of buses daily (both private and government). Given journey times represent what you might expect on a good run, without excessive stops to pick up passengers, roadworks or traffic jams en route, although all timings are extremely elastic, and don’t be surprised if some journeys end up taking considerably longer. On longer trips expect the driver to make at least one stop of around twenty minutes at a café en route, especially around lunchtime. Seat reservations are almost unheard of except on Colombo–Jaffna services.

Finding the bus you want can sometimes be tricky. Most buses display their destination in both Sinhala and English, although it’s useful to get an idea of the Sinhala characters you’re looking for. All bus stations have one or more information booths (often unsigned wire-mesh kiosks) where staff can point you in the right direction, as well as providing the latest timetable information. If you arrive at a larger terminal by tuktuk, it’s a good idea to enlist the help of your driver in locating the right bus.

quicker by train or bus?

As a rule of thumb, buses are generally faster than trains, especially once you’ve factored in the possibility of trains running behind schedule; hill-country services from Kandy to Badulla, in particular, are grindingly slow (although very scenic). Exceptions to the bus-faster-than-train rule include the journey between Colombo and Kandy, where express trains are notably quicker than buses (although this will change when the new expressway opens), and services on the new line up to Jaffna, where trains also generally beat the bus. For specific timings, check the train timetables and the “Arrival and departure” sections for individual destinations in the Guide.

Express services generally only halt at bus terminals or other recognized stops. Other types of services will usually stop wherever there’s a passenger to be picked up – just stand by the roadside and stick an arm out (although it’s best to find an official bus stop if possible – a bus icon on a blue square). If you’re flagging down a bus by the roadside, one final hazard is in getting on. Drivers often don’t stop completely, instead slowing down just enough to allow you to jump aboard. Keep your wits about you, especially if you’re weighed down with heavy luggage, and be prepared to move fast when the bus pulls in.

By train

Originally built by the British during the nineteenth century, Sri Lanka’s train network has seen massive changes over the past decade, transforming from a charmingly antiquated but not particularly useful relic of a bygone era to a comfortable and, on some routes, refreshingly fast way of getting around. The lines to Jaffna and Mannar, closed for decades, were reopened in 2014 and 2015 respectively, while islandwide track improvements and the addition of modern rolling stock (including smart new a/c carriages on intercity lines) have brought the entire system into the twentieth century – although many of the old rust-red-coloured colonial carriages remain in use, and trains on the gorgeous hill- country line are as grindingly slow as ever.

Observation cars and tourist carriages

Some intercity services on the hill-country route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla carry a special carriage, the so-called observation car, usually at the back of the train and with large panoramic windows offering 360-degree views and seating in rather battered armchair-style seats. All seats are reservable, and get snapped up quickly, especially on the popular Colombo to Kandy run. The fare between Colombo and Kandy is currently Rs.800 one way.

Rajadhani Express (011 574 7000, rajadhani.lk) also run special tourist carriages which are attached to a few of the main hill-country and south coast express trains, although their services were suspended at the time of writing and the carriages themselves, although comfortable, have small windows and limited views.

Timings for journeys on some routes vary massively between express services (making only a few stops), standard intercity services, which make more stops, and slow services (such as night mail trains), which halt at practically every station en route. Latest railway timetables can be checked at railway.gov.lk and at slr.malindaprasad.com. Check out the excellent seat61.com for more detailed coverage of Sri Lanka’s railways and latest developments.

The train network

The network comprises three principal lines. The coast line runs along the west coast from Puttalam in the north, heading south via Negombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Bentota, Beruwala, Aluthgama, Ambalangoda, Hikkaduwa and Galle to Weligama and Matara (with an extension as far as Kataragama now largely complete). The hill-country line runs from Colombo to Kandy then on to Hatton (for Adam’s Peak), Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), Haputale, Bandarawela, Ella and Badulla. The northern line runs from Colombo through Kurunegala to Anuradhapura and Vavuniya before terminating at Jaffna. Three additional branches run off this line: the first to Polonnaruwa and Batticaloa, the second to Trincomalee, and the third to Madhu Road, Mannar and Talaimannar.

Trains comprise three classes, though most services consist exclusively of second- and third-class carriages. There’s not actually a huge amount of difference between the two: second-class seats have a bit more padding and there are fans in the carriages. Both second- and third-class seats can be reserved on some trains – the major benefit of pre-booking a seat is that no standing passengers are allowed in reserved carriages, so they don’t get overcrowded. In unreserved carriages, the main advantage of second-class is that, being slightly more expensive, it tends also to be a bit less packed.

First class covers various different types of seating. These are available only on selected trains and must always be reserved in advance. The most common type of first-class seating is in conventional a/c carriages on intercity trains. On the hill-country and northern lines there are also first-class seats in blue Chinese-built trains with smart modern a/c carriages, although you can’t open the windows and are rather shut off from the outside world. Some people prefer second or third class, which have open windows and are therefore much more atmospheric and breezier, and also better for photography. First class also includes the observation car on hill-country trains; and (rather grotty) sleeping berths on overnight services.

The island’s compact size means that, unlike in neighbouring India, there are relatively few overnight trains. These comprise first-class sleeping berths and second- and third-class “sleeperettes” (actually just reclining seats), plus ordinary seats.

Fares and booking

Despite recent price increases, fares are still extremely cheap. You can travel all the way from Colombo to Jaffna in third class, for example, for just Rs.335, while even a first-class berth on the same route costs a relatively modest Rs.1100.

Many trains now have seats in all three classes which can be booked in advance. Reservations can be made in person at major stations up to thirty days before travel. You can also book by phone if you have a Mobitel/Etisalat account (call 365). Sri Lankan Railways don’t offer a web-booking service but it’s possible to reserve tickets online through a number of private operators – visitsrilankatours.co.uk are the best.

The bad news is that on many services, reserved seating (particularly in first class, where available), tends to sell out as soon as it goes on sale, and even lower classes may be booked solid – meaning that it definitely pays to book more than a month in advance using an online service. The good news (sort of) is that virtually all trains have at least some second- and third-class unreserved carriages. Tickets for these are sold only on the day of departure, sometimes not until an hour before departure, and there’s no limit on the number of tickets sold, meaning you’re guaranteed to get a ticket – if you’re told a train has “sold out” it just means all the reserved seats have gone). It also, of course, means that carriages can sometimes get packed solid.

By plane

Domestic air services provide a superfast alternative to long journeys by road or rail and are memorable in their own right, with frequently beautiful views of the island from above. The main operator is Cinnamon Air (cinnamonair.com), which has regular scheduled flights out of Katunayake international airport and from Water’s Edge (on the southern side of Colombo) to Koggala, Dickwella, Weerawila (near Tissamaharama), Kandy, Castlereagh (near Adam’s Peak), Sigiriya, Batticaloa and Trincomalee. Fares aren’t particularly cheap (a one-way flight from Colombo to Trincomalee, for example, cost $262 at the time of research), although the flights are wonderfully scenic, and on many routes you’ll either take off from and/or land on water, which adds an extra pinch of fun.

Much cheaper flights are offered by Helitours (www.helitours.lk), who fly out of Colombo’s Ratmalana airport (just north of Mount Lavinia) to Trincomalee and Jaffna, with a one-way ticket to Trincomalee, for example, costing just Rs.9250 (around $60). Helitours is a commercial offshoot of the Sri Lankan Air Force, using government planes piloted by services personnel, and generally gets good reviews. It’s worth noting though that their fleet still appears to include two Chinese-made Xian MA60 planes, an aircraft which has been the subject of numerous international safety concerns. Helitours continued using one of these for its Jaffna flights in 2015 even after its Certificate of Airworthiness had expired, requiring passengers to sign an indemnity form before boarding the plane. If you still want to fly with Helitours, you can (hopefully) book online using their somewhat temperamental website or in person either at their offices in Colombo (Sir Chittampalam A. Gardiner Mawatha, Fort) or Jaffna (266 Stanley Road). Alternatively, try calling 011 3 144 244 or 011 3 144 944, or emailing helitourstickets@slaf.gov.lk.

Train timetables of major intercity services

The following were correct at the time of research though are likely to change (perhaps significantly) during the lifetime of this guide. Times from Colombo given below are from Fort Station. All trains run daily unless otherwise indicated. Always check the latest times before travelling.

Trains in the south

In addition to the following, there are a considerable number of slow commuter trains running stretches of the line between Colombo and Galle; the following timetable lists express services only.

COLOMBO–KANDY EXPRESS TRAINS

TRAINS IN THE HILL COUNTRY

TRAINS IN THE EAST

TRAINS IN THE NORTH

By car

As Sri Lankans say, in order to drive around the island you’ll need three things: “good horn, good brakes, good luck”. Although roads are generally in reasonable condition, the myriad hazards they present – crowds of pedestrians, erratic cyclists, crazed bus drivers and suicidal dogs, to name just a few – plus the very idiosyncratic set of road rules followed by Sri Lankan drivers, makes driving a challenge in many parts of the island.

Reliable car hire companies include Malkey (malkey.lk) and Casons Rent-A-Car (casons.lk), both of which have a good range of cars at competitive rates, with or without driver.

Self-driving

If you’re determined to drive yourself, you’ll need to bring an international driving permit with you from home and then acquire an additional permit to drive in Sri Lanka. To acquire this you’ll need to visit the Automobile Association of Ceylon, 3rd floor, 40 Sir M.M. Markar Mawatha, Colombo, just a few metres from the Ramada hotel (011 755 5557; office open Mon–Fri 8am–4pm). Permits cost Rs.3636, are valid for up to twelve months and are issued on the spot.

It’s also worth equipping yourself with a good map or atlas (such as the Arjuna’s Road Atlas) – or some smartphone or tablet equivalent. In terms of driving rules, you’d do well to remember that, in Sri Lanka, might is right: drivers of larger vehicles (buses especially), will expect you to get out of the way if they’re travelling faster than you. In addition, many drivers overtake freely on blind corners or in other dangerous places. Expect to confront other vehicles driving at speed on the wrong side of the road on a fairly regular basis.

Car and driver

Given the hassle of getting around by public transport, virtually all visitors opt to tour Sri Lanka by hiring a car and driver, which offers unlimited flexibility and can be less expensive than you might expect. Some drivers will get you from A to B but nothing more; others are Sri Lanka Tourist Board-accredited “chauffeur-guides”, government-trained and holding a tourist board licence, who can double up as guides at all the main tourist sights and field any questions you might have about the country.

The main problem with drivers is that many of them work on commission, which they receive from some, but not all, hotels, plus assorted restaurants, shops, spice gardens, jewellers and so on. This means that you and your driver’s opinions might not always coincide as to where you want to stay and what you want to do – some drivers will always want to head for wherever they get the best kickbacks (and you’ll also pay over the odds at these places, since the hoteliers, restaurateurs or shopkeepers have to recoup the commission they’re paying the driver). If you find you’re spending more time stressing out about dealing with your driver than enjoying your holiday, find another one – there are plenty of decent drivers out there.

Cars and drivers can be hired through virtually every tour companies and travel agents around the island, while many hotels and guesthouses can also fix you up with a vehicle. To make sure you get a good driver, it pays to go with a reputable company (such as DSL Tours or Sri Lanka Driver Tours) which pays its drivers a decent wage so they don’t have to rely on commission to make ends meet. Make sure your driver speaks at least some English and emphasize from the outset where you do and don’t want to go. Some drivers impose on their clients’ good nature to the point of having meals with them and insisting on acting as guides and interpreters throughout the tour, even if they’re not qualified to do so. If this is what you want, fine; if not, don’t be afraid to make it clear that you expect to be left alone when not in the car.

Prices depend more on quality than size of transport – a posh air-conditioned car will cost more than a non-air-conditioned minivan. Rates start from around $40 per day for the smallest cars, plus the driver’s fees and living allowances. Most top-end hotels provide meals and accommodation for drivers either for free or for a small additional charge. If you’re staying in budget or mid-range places, you’ll have to pay for your driver’s room and food – as ever, it’s best to try to establish a daily allowance for this at the outset of your trip to avoid misunderstandings and arguments later. Your driver will probably also expect a tip of $5–10 per day, depending on how highly trained they are. You’ll also probably have to pay for fuel – now pretty expensive in Sri Lanka – which can add significantly to the overall cost. In addition, some companies only offer a decidedly mean 100km per day free mileage, which doesn’t go far on the island’s twisty roads, so you may well have to stump up for some excess mileage as well. Alternatively, you could always just hire vehicles by the day as you go round the island. The actual vehicle-hire cost may be a bit higher, but you won’t have to worry about having to house and feed your driver.

By rickshaw

The lines of motorized rickshaws that ply the streets of every city, town and village are one of Sri Lanka’s most characteristic sights. Known by various names – tuktuks, three-wheelers, trishaws or (rather more optimistically) “taxis” – rickshaws are the go-to option for short journeys and can also be useful for tours and excursions and even, at a pinch, for long journeys if you get stranded or can’t be bothered to wait around for a bus, although they’re not particularly comfortable, and you can’t see much either.

Except in Colombo, Sri Lankan rickshaws are unmetered; the fare will be whatever you can negotiate with the driver. Never set off without agreeing the fare beforehand. The majority of Sri Lanka’s tuktuk drivers are reasonably honest, and you may be offered a decent fare without even having to bargain; a small minority, however, are complete crooks who will take you for whatever they can get. Given the wildly varying degrees of probity you’ll encounter, it’s often difficult to know exactly where you stand. A basic fare of Rs.40–50 per kilometre (which is what metered taxis in Colombo currently charge) serves as a useful general rule of thumb, though unless you have ironclad bargaining powers you’ll probably pay more than this, especially in big cities and heavily touristed areas. Also bear in mind that the longer the journey, the lower the per-kilometre rate should be. In addition, the sheer number of rickshaws in most tourist centres means that you usually have the upper hand in bargaining – if you can’t agree a reasonable fare, there’ll always be another driver keen to take your custom.

Finally, beware of rickshaw drivers who claim to have no change – this can even apply when trying to pay, say, for a Rs.70 fare with a Rs.100 note, with the driver claiming (perhaps truthfully) to have only Rs.10 or Rs.20 change, and hoping that you’ll settle for a few rupees less. If you don’t have change, check that the driver does before you set off. If you make the position clear from the outset, you’re guaranteed that your driver will go through the hassle of getting change for you rather than risk losing your fare.

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