OBAIDEH
See CHARDONNAY.
ODESSKY CHERNY
Red-fleshed, versatile Ukrainian cross that reveals its Cabernet parentage.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Alibernet, Oděskij Čornyj, Odessa Black, Odesskii Chernyi, Semenac 1-17-4
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Odessky Cherny, meaning ‘black of Odessa’, is an ALICANTE HENRI BOUSCHET × CABERNET SAUVIGNON cross obtained in 1948 by M P Tsebriy, P K Ayvazyan, A N Kostyuk, E N Dokuchaeva, M I Tulaeva and A P Ablyazova at the Tairov research centre in Odessa, southern Ukraine, and officially registered in 1972. Four clones are currently cultivated. While the name Odessky Cherny is widespread in its homeland, the variety is known in Slovakia under the name Alibernet (officially registered there in 1975), a contraction of the parents’ names. It was used to breed NERONET.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Fertile, productive, late ripening. Loose bunches of firm-skinned, red-fleshed berries. Relatively resistant to botrytis bunch rot and downy mildew, and good winter hardiness but only moderate resistance to frost.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Odessky Cherny, widely planted in Ukraine (2,426 ha/5,995 acres in 2009) and recommended in the Odessa, Nikolaev and Kherson regions and in Krym (Crimea), is used to make fresh, deeply coloured, good-quality dry, semi-sweet, sweet and fortified reds with dark-fruit flavours, sometimes a note of tomato, and moderate tannins. Sun Valley (Solnechnaya Dolina) use it in both sweet and fortified blends while Kolonist’s dry version combines black-fruit flavours with a herbaceous, minty note.
Although plantings are much more limited than in Ukraine, Alibernet is popular in Slovakia for deepening the colour of red blends, for its Cabernet-like structure and dark-berry fruit flavours that marry well with oak as well as for late-harvested varietal wines such as Hlohovec Food Farm’s example under the Golguz label.
OEILLADE BLANCHE
See PICARDAN.
OEILLADE NOIRE
Disappearing, dark-skinned, southern French variety more popular as a table grape.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Aragnan Noir (Vaucluse), Ouillade, Ouillard, Ouliade, Passerille Noire (Saint-Péray)
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR OEILLADE NOIRE: CINSAUT *
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Oeillade Noire is an old variety from Provence, southern France, where it used to be cultivated in the Var, Vaucluse, Gard, Hérault and the Vallée du Rhône. According to Rézeau (1997), its first mention supposedly dates back to 1544 in the ‘Chant de vendanges’ (‘harvest song’) by Bonaventure des Périers as ‘œillades, cépage de la vallée du Rhône’ (‘œillades, variety of the vallée du Rhône’), but it is not known whether this ‘œillades’ corresponded to Oeillade Blanche (a synonym for PICARDAN) or Oeillade Noire, which are distinct cultivars. The first reliable mention appeared in Pierre Magnol (1676): ‘Plures aliæ [vites] sunt nigræ quibus vinum rubrum conficitur, ut tarret, piquepoule, efoirou, ouliade, aliáque plurima’ (‘Many other black grape varieties are used to make red wines, such as tarret, piquepoule, efoirou, ouliade, and many others’).
The name Oeillade most likely derives from the French verb ouiller, meaning ‘to top up’, the very productive Oeillade Noire being used to refill the vats or barrels (Lavignac 2001). It is much less likely to be derived from the French œil, meaning ‘eye’ or ‘bud’, for which there’s no logical explanation.
Oeillade Noire is not the black version of Oeillade Blanche, a synonym of PICARDAN, and is not identical to CINSAUT, often sold under the name Oeillade Noire, especially for table grapes in the south of France.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Big berries and bunches. Mid ripening. Best pruned short. Susceptible to leafhoppers and botrytis bunch rot, and sometimes to coulure and millerandage.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Traditionally grown around Saint-Chinian in the Languedoc, France, and valued for its ability to ripen, albeit at modest alcohol levels, on higher sites that did not suit CINSAUT, Oeillade virtually disappeared in the twentieth century. However, Thierry Navarre of Domaine Navarre at Roquebrun, north west of Béziers in the Languedoc, has recently started bottling a varietal wine – fruity and for early drinking, lightly chilled. It is not included in the official French register of varieties and so cannot be used in any appellation wine.
OFTHALMO
Rare Cypriot variety whose soft, light reds are generally hidden in blends.
Berry colour: red
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Oftalmo, Ophtalmo, Ophtalmon, Optalmo, Pephtalmo, Pophtalmo
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Ofthalmo is indigenous to the island of Cyprus, where it was first mentioned by the French ampelographer Pierre Mouillefert (1893) under the name Pophtalmo, meaning ‘bull’s eye’.
According to DNA profiling, Ofthalmo is genetically relatively close to SPOURTIKO, also from Cyprus (Hvarleva, Hadjinicoli et al. 2005).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Mid budding, mid to late ripening. Vigorous and productive, with uneven ripening. Medium-sized to large bunches.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Ofthalmo is scattered across the wine areas in the western half of Cyprus but the better wines come from Pitsilia and the villages in the Lemesós (Limassol) region (Constantinou 2006). Wines are aromatic but light in colour and body, with low acidity, which is probably why they are generally blended with other local varieties such as MAVRO and MARATHEFTIKO (eg by Chrysorroyiatissa, Kolios and Zenon) or with international varieties such as CABERNET SAUVIGNON and Grenache (GARNACHA) (eg by Kamanterena, Nelion and Vasilikon). Total plantings in 2010 were just 126 ha (311 acres) and the quality of the wines suggests this variety may well slowly disappear.
OHRIDSKO CRNO
Macedonian variety that was a casualty of phylloxera.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Prespanka
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Ohridsko Crno, literally ‘black from Ohrid’, is probably indigenous to the area around Lake Ohrid in the far south west of the Republic of Macedonia on the border with Albania.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Productive, mid to late ripening. Relatively compact, small to medium-sized bunches of large berries. Best on averagely fertile and moist soils. Some resistance to downy and powdery mildews and botrytis bunch rot.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Before the advent of phylloxera, Ohridsko Crno was widely planted in the Ohrid region of the Republic of Macedonia but now survives only in pockets in Ohrid, Struga and Resen. Wines are generally light in colour, fresh and fruity with moderate alcohol and often blended with PROKUPAC and VRANAC.
OJALESHI
Georgian variety suspected of Turkish origins.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Chonouri, Odjaleshi, Odzhaleshi, Sconuri, Svanuri
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR OJALESHI: Orbeluri Odjaleshi
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Ojaleshi, meaning ‘growing on trees’ in the Megrelian dialect, is thought to be indigenous to Samegrelo, near Georgia’s Black Sea coast, but a recent DNA study has shown it to be genetically close to several Turkish varieties (Vouillamoz et al. 2006), suggesting it may have been introduced from a region now part of neighbouring Turkey but once part of Georgia.
OTHER HYPOTHESES
According to Chkhartishvili and Betsiashvili (2004), Ojaleshi was mentioned by ancient Greek historian Herodotus.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Small bunches of medium-sized berries. Early budding, very late ripening.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Ojaleshi is well suited to the subtropical climate of Samegrelo, north-western Georgia, particularly in the villages of Salkhino, Tamakoni and Abedati, where it is used to make sweet ruby-red wines that have plenty of red-fruit flavours and sometimes a peppery or spicy note. It seems to have good potential for dry wines, too. It is also planted further east in Orbeli in the Racha-Lechkhumi region, where it develops rose aromas. As its name suggests (see above), it was traditionally grown up trees, and its survival was mainly thanks to a Frenchman, Achille Murat, who started trellising it in the mid nineteenth century (Smithsonian Institution 2009). Recommended producers include Khareba, Tbilvino and Telavi Wine Cellar. There were around 130 ha (321 acres) in Georgia in 2004.
OKATAC CRNI
See GLAVINUŠA.
ÖKÜZGÖZÜ
Turkish variety with an increasing reputation for its juicy, fresh, aromatic reds.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: ?Kara Erik *
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Öküzgözü, literally ‘bull’s eye’ because of its large, black berries, most likely originates from the province of Elâzığ in eastern Anatolia. Together with BOĞAZKERE, from the same area, it counts among the most important Turkish reds. DNA profiling has shown that the variety called Kara Erik in the neighbouring provinces of Sivas, Erzincan and Malatya is identical to Öküzgözü (Vouillamoz et al. 2006) but recent ampelographic observations have cast doubts on the true-to-typeness of the Kara Erik sample (Yılmaz Boz, personal communication).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Large, compact bunches of large black fleshy berries. Mid to late ripening. Good general disease resistance. Berries can attain fairly high sugar levels. Well suited to clay-loam soils and dry conditions.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Grown both for the table and for wine, Öküzgözü is a widely planted wine grape in Turkey, with 1,656 ha (4,092 acres) in 2010, mostly in the provinces of Elâzığ and Malatâya in eastern Anatolia and, to a lesser extent, in Tunceli (north of Elâzığ), Trakya (Thrace, north of the Sea of Marmara), Kapadokya (Cappadocia), Manisa (western Turkey) and along the Aegean coast. The vineyards in eastern Anatolia, planted mostly on sandy-clay soils over limestone although there is also red clay and decomposed granite, are at 850–1,100 m above sea level but here the harsh continental climate is softened by the Euphrates and its dams.
Varietal wines are generally light in colour, medium-bodied and juicy, with bright, aromatic fruit flavours, fresh acidity, moderate alcohol and relatively soft tannins so that they are often blended with the tougher and less acidic BOĞAZKERE. Öküzgözü has been growing in stature since the 1980s and there are now some very good varietal wines, following the lead of pioneer Kavaklidere. Others include Diren, Doluca, Kayra and Melen. On its own, the variety is not particularly ageworthy and is best with little or very subtle oak influence.
OLASZ RIZLING
See GRAŠEVINA.
OLIVELLA NERA
See SCIASCINOSO.
ONCHETTE
Recently rescued Isère variety.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Ouchette (Isère)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Onchette is a rare variety from Isère that is close to extinction. DNA parentage analysis has shown that Onchette is one of the numerous natural progenies of GOUAIS BLANC (Boursiquot et al. 2004; see PINOT pedigree diagram).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Mid to late ripening.
WHERE IT’S GROWN
Onchette used to be cultivated mainly in Lavars and in Roissard in the Vallée du Drac in the Isère, central eastern France, although it has now almost disappeared. The association Vignes et Vignerons du Trièves, founded in 2008 with the aim of saving the old vineyards of the Trièves region from oblivion, planted 1.2 ha (3 acres) of Onchette in 2009 near the village of Prébois in the Isère.
ONDENC
Neglected variety persists in south-west France and in isolated spots in Australia.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Blanquette, Irvine’s White (Great Western in Australia), Oundenc or Oundenq (Gaillac), Piquepout de Moissac (Gers), Plant de Gaillac (Tarn)
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR ONDENC: PIQUEPOUL BLANC *
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Ondenc is an ancient variety from the Tarn region, where it was first mentioned in 1783 (Rézeau 1997): ‘Ondene blanc . . . c’est un des meilleurs raisins que je connoisse pour manger et faire de bon vin’ (‘Ondene blanc . . . it is one of the best grapes I know to eat and make good wine’). The name Ondenc, meaning ‘undulating’ in the local dialect, could derive from the abundant and clear juice, or from the undulation of the leaves in the strong, local Autan wind, but this is doubtful – growers’ descriptions are generally descriptive rather than poetic.
Ondenc is a member of the Folle ampelographic group (see p XXVII; Bisson 2009).
Surprisingly, DNA parentage analysis suggests a possible parent–offspring relationship between Ondenc and ROUSSETTE D’AYZE from Savoie (Vouillamoz).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Early budding and thus at risk from spring frosts. Vigorous, fertile and early ripening. Susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and sour rot and, to a lesser extent, to both downy and powdery mildews.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Ondenc was preferred over and above MAUZAC BLANC after the phylloxera crisis because it was thought to be less susceptible to the louse responsible but its popularity waned due to poor yields and susceptibility to botrytis bunch rot. It is still officially recommended in much of the south-western quarter of France and permitted as a minor variety in several appellations, including Bordeaux, Bergerac, Gaillac, Montravel and Vins de Lavilledieu. However, just 10 ha (25 acres) remained in France in 2008, down from 1,589 ha (3,927 acres) in 1958.
The variety produces wines that are not very aromatic but in the right conditions may be late harvested for sweet wines. It has been saved from oblivion by a small group of growers, notably Robert and Bernard Plageoles, who, at their Domaine de Très-Cantous, produce both dry and sweet varietal wines within the Gaillac appellation.
Ondenc was taken to Australia at the end of the nineteenth century and known as Irvine’s White at Great Western and confusingly as Sercial in South Australia. At Seppelt in Victoria it contributed to their Hans Irvine sparkling wine until it was pulled up a few years ago. In the Barossa Valley, Langmeil have produced a traditional-method sparkling wine from 100% Ondenc which they describe as having aromas of honey, beeswax and apples. They plan to replace it.
OPSIMO EDESSIS
Inferior northern Greek variety also grown for the table.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Agriostaphylo, Chimoniatiko, Dopio, Foustani, Karatsova Naousis *, Karatzovitiko, Ntopia, Opsimo, Opsimos Edessis, Opsimos Lefko *, Pandiri, Paschalino, Raisin de Foustani, Raisin de Karatzova, Staphyli Edessis, Staphyli Karatzovas, Valandovski Drenak (Republic of Macedonia), Zimsko Belo * or Belo Zimsko (Republic of Macedonia)
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR OPSIMO EDESSIS: Amasya (Turkish table grape)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Opsimo Edessis, literally ‘late ripening from Édessa’, probably comes from Kentrikí Makedonía (Central Macedonia) in northern Greece, where it is also called Dopio or Ntopio, meaning ‘from the country’ (Galet 2000). Comparison of the DNA profiles of Opsimo Edessis, Opsimos Lefko and Karatsova Naousis in the Greek Vitis Database suggests that they are identical (Vouillamoz), this last being also known as Zimsko Belo in the Republic of Macedonia (Štajner, Angelova et al. 2009). Both the synonyms Zismko and Chimoniatiko mean ‘winter’, possibly referring to the fact that the grapes will keep for up to five or six months for the table.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and productive. Mid budding but very late ripening. Susceptible to powdery mildew (especially if pergola trained) and botrytis bunch rot.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Opsimo Edessis, originally a table grape but used to make wine when the market for table grapes dried up, seems to be confined to Kentrikí Makedonía in northern Greece, especially around Édessa, north west of Thessaloníki. However, the wines are generally poor quality – low in alcohol and acidity – and are typically used in the production of retsina. There were 228 ha (563 acres) in 2008.
OPTIMA
German cross designed to reach stupendous sugar levels even on poor sites.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Optima 113
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
A (SILVANER × RIESLING) × MÜLLER-THURGAU cross bred by Peter Morio and Bernhard Husfeld in 1933 at the Geilweilerhof research centre, authorized in Germany in 1971. Parentage has been confirmed by DNA profiling (Grando and Frisinghelli 1998). Optima and BACCHUS are siblings and, having RIESLING twice in their pedigree, are genetically very similar to it. Optima was used to breed ORION.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and very early ripening – up to ten days before MÜLLER-THURGAU – and copes with the poorest of soils, though yields are not particularly high and it is not particularly winter-hardy. Good resistance to downy mildew but susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and a victim of wasps due to its precocity.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Germany’s 64 ha (158 acres) are planted mainly in Rheinhessen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and the Pfalz, a marked decline from 184 ha (455 acres) in 2001. There were more than 400 ha (988 acres) in 1990 but it has mainly been used to boost sugar levels in a blend, hence its current decline. Even though, or perhaps because, it can reach a high level of ripeness, the wines tend to be flabby and undistinguished or just plain sweet. Producers of varietal wines include Butzelt in Franken and Karlheinz Schneider in the Nahe.
It is also planted to a limited extent in England (2 ha/5 acres), where it is sometimes made into a late-harvest-style sweet wine, and also in British Columbia, Canada, where there are 14 acres (6 ha).
ORANGE MUSCAT
ORANGETRAUBE
Variety with a much-discussed history but now strictly limited geography.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Gelbe Orangetraube (Germany), Narancsszőlő (Hungary), Orangentraube
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR ORANGETRAUBE: GALBENĂ DE ODOBEȘTI (Romania)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Johann Philipp Bronner (1792–1864) was a German pharmacist and ampelographer from Neckargemünd in Baden-Württemberg in southern Germany. Since the 1840s, he had carefully studied the wild grapevines growing along the Rhein between Mannheim and Rastatt (Bronner 1857). Bronner found thousands of red-berried vines, and only three white-berried ones, the most interesting being the one found near Speyer (south of Mannheim in Rheinland-Pfalz) that had yellow, round and sweet berries, with a strong aroma of orange-blossom oil. Bronner had established his own classification system of varieties and gave it the Latin name Zaehringia nobilis, in honour of the old and influential German ruling family Zähringen, and he gave it the common name Orangetraube for its particular aroma. The first official use of this name was made by Friedrich Jakob Dochnahl (1848), who described Orangetraube as a new and valuable table grape.
Orangetraube has always been considered to be a wild grapevine, thus belonging to the Vitis vinifera subsp. silvestris. However, this is highly improbable because wild grapevines are usually dioecious, having separate male and female plants, and they never have light-skinned berries. In addition, several cultivated varieties were found to be morphologically similar to Orangetraube:
– KNIPPERLÉ (called Ortlieber in Germany), according to the famous ampelographer Hermann Goethe (1878), who promulgated Orangetraube in Austria
– PINOT (called Blauburgunder), according to August Wilhelm Freiherr von Babo and Edmund Mach (1923)
– RÄUSCHLING, according to Ambrosi et al. (1997).
Since the DNA profile of Orangetraube published by Sefc et al. (2000) does not match any other known cultivated variety or wild grapevine (Vouillamoz), and since it resembles several cultivated varieties, we suggest that Orangetraube originated from a grape seed that was randomly eaten by a bird in a neighbouring vineyard and ejected in the forest along the banks of the Rhein. A basic DNA parentage analysis based on a mere ten DNA markers suggests that the parents of Orangetraube could be PINOT, possibly PINOT GRIS because of the colour and aroma of the berries, and CHASSELAS (Vouillamoz), although at least thirty or forty markers would be necessary to confirm this hypothesis. This parentage would be absolutely consistent with historical data. Indeed, Chasselas (aka Gutedel) has been cultivated in Baden-Württemberg since the sixteenth century (Krämer 2006), and Pinot Gris is said to have been first introduced to Germany by a grape collector in Speyer (Babo 1843–4), exactly where Orangetraube was found, before being spread by a merchant called Ruland, hence its synonym Ruländer in Baden-Württemberg. La boucle est bouclée!
Orangetraube was crossed with Welschriesling (GRAŠEVINA) to breed GOLDBURGER.
OTHER HYPOTHESES
The variety GALBENĂ DE ODOBEȘTI cultivated in Romania is often said to be identical to Orangetraube, but it has non-aromatic berries and its DNA profile in Hârţa et al. (2011) is distinct and unique (Vouillamoz).
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
In Austria, on the south side of the capital, Wien (Vienna), Richard Zahel is one of the few producers of a varietal wine, though the variety is also planted to a very limited extent in Burgenland, further south, and around Klosterneuburg north west of Wien. Zahel describes his wine as having intense stone-fruit flavours and racy acidity.
ORANIENSTEINER
German cross that seems to have a found a niche in Canada.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Geisenheim 11-34, Hochkroner
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
A RIESLING × SILVANER cross bred in 1985 at the Geisenheim research centre, probably named after Schloss Oranienstein in Rheinland-Pfalz. Oraniensteiner, OSTEINER and RIESLANER are siblings.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Bred in Germany though not yet authorized there for quality wine production, Oraniensteiner is planted to a limited extent in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, Canada, where Sonoran Estate, for example, produce a varietal icewine and Joie include it in their off-dry Edelzwicker-style Noble Blend. It’s also authorized in Ontario. In Hungary there are a few vines near Lake Balaton. Wines have good acidity and strong citrus notes.
ORION
Little-planted cool-climate German hybrid similar to Müller-Thurgau.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Geilweilerhof GA-58-30
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Orion is a complex OPTIMA × VILLARD BLANC hybrid bred by Gerhardt Alleweldt in 1964 at the Geilweilerhof research centre. However, Orion is categorized as vinifera in the UK because of its vinifera-like wines. It was named after the giant hunter in Greek mythology, killed by Artemis and now the name of a constellation.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Cold-hardy, with quite good resistance to downy mildew but susceptible to botrytis bunch rot. Yields are high but lower than those of MÜLLER-THURGAU and the sugar levels tend to be higher.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Orion was authorized in 1994 but there are still only a few hectares in Germany, mostly in Rheinhessen, where Dr Lawall produce a varietal wine, and there are a few lonely vines in Switzerland (one tenth of a hectare/a quarter of an acre). It has been slightly more popular in England, where there were 9 ha (22 acres) in 2007. Denmark had just 2 ha (5 acres) in 2010. There are also limited plantings in Sweden. Wines are fresh, sometimes slightly floral but relatively soft. According to Basler (2003), it is in decline because its resistance to disease has been disappointing.
ORLEANS GELB
Ancient but now very minor, high-acid German vine replaced by Riesling. The oldest vines in Germany may be Orleans Gelb.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Gelber Orleans, Hart-Heunscht, Hartheinisch, Harthengst or Hart-Hängst, Harthinsch, Orleaner, Orléans Jaune, Orleanser, Orleanstraube, Weisser Orleans
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Despite being named after the city of Orléans in central northern France, Orleans Gelb (gelb means ‘yellow’ in German) comes from the Rheingau region, where it was widely cultivated until the nineteenth century, especially in the Rüdesheimer Berg vineyard, near Rüdesheim, its historical base. Its first mention most likely appeared under its old synonym Harthinsch in Hieronymus Bock’s (1539) Kreutterbuch: ‘Harthinsch umb Türckheim und Wachenheim’ (Türckheim here is not the village in Alsace but an old spelling of Dürkheim, a village close to Wachenheim in the Pfalz.)
The name Harthinsch, also spelt Hartheinisch in Neuw Kreutterbuch (1588) by Jacobus Theodorus (also known as Tabernaemontanus), is undoubtedly a contraction of hart Heunisch meaning ‘hard Gouais Blanc’. This name refers to the thickness of the berry skins and to a similarity with GOUAIS BLANC, still called Heunisch in Germany. According to Aeberhard (2005), the name was changed to Hart-Hängst in 1697, Harthengst in 1751, Hartheinst in 1781 and then back to Hart-Heunscht in Bassermann-Jordan (1923). The name Orleans can be confusing because it has also been given to different grape varieties in the past (mainly PINOT), and the first use of this name for the variety under discussion here was in Ludwig von Babo (1843–4), who described three types within the variety (Gelber Orleans, Grüner Orleans and Später Weisser Orleans), which are most likely mutations of berry colour and ripening period (grün meaning ‘green’, weiss meaning ‘white’ and spät meaning ‘late’).
OTHER HYPOTHESES
Ludwig von Babo (1843–4) relates an unfounded legend saying that Orleans Gelb was brought from the region of Orléans in the Loiret (central northern France) to the Rüdesheimer Berg in the Rheingau by the emperor Charlemagne (742–814), who owned a vineyard in Rüdesheim. From there, it would have spread to the whole of the Rheintal (Rhine Valley). Similarly, it is sometimes said that monks from the Cistercian monastery in Eberbach could have brought it from Orléans in the twelfth century. However, there are no historical documents to support these hypotheses, and Orleans Gelb has never been observed in the region of Orléans.
Orleans Gelb is often said to be an offspring of GOUAIS BLANC, but this hypothesis can be rejected by DNA profiling (Vouillamoz).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and productive with very big, thick-skinned berries.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Orleans Gelb was once widely cultivated in some of the best vineyards of the Rheingau, Germany (Assmannshausen, Nierstein, Rüdesheimer Berg, Scharlachberg bei Bingen and Schloss Johannisberg), where it was planted together with RIESLING, GOUAIS BLANC (Heunisch), ELBLING, SILVANER, PINOT GRIS (Ruländer), SCHIAVA GROSSA (Trollinger) and SAVAGNIN BLANC (Traminer). By the end of the nineteenth century, Orleans Gelb had been largely replaced by Riesling, which produced better-quality, aromatic wine that commanded higher prices, and there is no record of the variety being vinified after 1921 in Rüdesheim.
The variety was then assumed to be extinct until Helmut Becker of the Geisenheim research centre rediscovered old feral vines of Orleans Gelb in the 1980s on the terraces of Rüdesheimer Berg. The first plantings were made in the early 1990s in collaboration with Weingut Knipser in Laumersheim (c.700 vines), and in 1995 in collaboration with Weingut Georg Breuer in Rüdesheim (c.600 vines), who released the first commercial – oak-aged – wine in 2002. Knipser describes the wine as rather neutral with marked acidity but this is buffered by the relatively full body. Wines can be quite forceful.
Five very old vines of Orleans Gelb have been discovered growing almost wild by grape researcher Andreas Jung in Disibodenberg near Odernheim am Glan in the Nahe. Based on local historical documents, the planting date of these vines has been estimated at between 1108 and 1559, when the Disibodenberg monastery was still active, and it has been claimed that these grapevines may be the oldest in Germany.
ORTEGA
Early-ripening Gerrman cross that can achieve impressive sugar levels if not acidity.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Würzburg 48-21-4
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
A MÜLLER-THURGAU × SIEGERREBE cross bred by Hans Breider in 1948 at Würzburg, Franken, named after the Spanish philosopher José Ortega y Gasset. This parentage has been confirmed by DNA analysis (Myles et al. 2011).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Early budding and thus at risk from spring frosts. Very early ripening, with good resistance to both downy and powdery mildews but susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and coulure.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Ortega can achieve high grape-sugar levels in most years, making it popular in Germany (634 ha/1,567 acres), though less so than in the late 1980s. Half of the German plantings are in Rheinhessen and the rest mostly in the Pfalz. Its tendency towards coulure makes it less appropriate than OPTIMA for the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region, where there are still a few plantings. It produces soft, full-flavoured, occasionally spicy wines, including sweet, peachy examples from Auslese level to very sweet. Recommended producers in Germany include Scherner-Kleinhanss in Rheinhessen and Frey in the Pfalz.
Its reliable ripeness has led to its adoption in England (27 ha/67 acres), where Biddenden Vineyards have been particularly successful with their offerings and Chapel Down produce a barrel-aged version. It is also grown in Switzerland, Sweden and Denmark (1.5 ha/4 acres in 2010).
It is also found in British Columbia in Canada (51 acres/21 ha), where it is valued for its precociousness and its sugar content.
ORTRUGO
Emilia-Romagnan often blended with the most aromatic Malvasia.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Altruga, Altrugo, Artrugo
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
The earliest mention of this variety in the province of Piacenza in Emilia-Romagna is to be found under its synonyms Artrugo or Altrugo in an ampelographic bulletin dated 1881, whereas the name Ortrugo does not appear until the early part of the twentieth century, in Toni (1927). The name could derive from altrughe or artrugo, meaning ‘the other grape’ (altra uva) in local dialect.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Vigorous and productive. Late ripening. Susceptible to the European grapevine moth (Lobesia botrana).
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Ortrugo almost disappeared in the mid twentieth century, largely replaced by MALVASIA DI CANDIA AROMATICA, before being rescued in the 1960s and 1970s, thanks mainly to the perseverance of Luigi Mossi in the Val Tidone south west of the city of Piacenza, Italy. Today, Ortrugo is one of the most widely cultivated white varieties in the province of Piacenza, almost exclusively in the Colli Piacentini DOC (Val Tidone, Val Luretta, Val Trebbia, Val Nure, Val Chero, Val d’Arda and Val Stirone), as a sparkling, lightly sparkling or still varietal or as part of a blend (often with Malvasia di Candia Aromatica or with TREBBIANO ROMAGNOLO) and also in Vin Santo and Vin Santo di Vigoleno within the same DOC. It is also planted in the Oltrepò Pavese, close to the border with Emilia-Romagna. The Italian census recorded 526 ha (1,300 acres) in 2000.
Good examples are produced by Mossi (still and sparkling), Barattieri, Pusteria (includes 15% TREBBIANO ROMAGNOLO). Sparkling wines tend to be light and fresh whereas the still wines are generally more full-bodied and alcoholic.
OSELETA
Revived and rather fashionable in Valpolicella country.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Oselina
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
The name Oseleta probably derives from its synonym Oselina, based on Italian uccelli, meaning ‘birds’, a name given to several distinct varieties whose berries are often eaten by birds.
OTHER HYPOTHESES
Oseleta is said to have been domesticated from wild grapes in the Verona area, but there is as yet no evidence to support this.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Mid ripening. Low and variable yields. Resistant to botrytis bunch rot and therefore may be harvested late.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Oseleta was almost extinct before it was recovered in the 1970s in the small village of Pigozzo, north east of Verona in the Veneto, north-east Italy. It is used by some producers in small amounts to add colour and tannins to the blend for Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, and Tedeschi, for example, have included the variety in their most recent plantings. Since 2002 Oseleta has been officially authorized and recommended in the Valpolicella area. Zymè and Masi produce two of the very rare examples of varietal wines, both classified as IGT Rosso del Veronese. Masi’s Osar, made from vines planted in 1985 and 1990, spends twenty-four months in small new oak barrels but still has a complex aromatic profile from herbs and cinnamon through hedgerow fruit to floral and then leather notes, and pretty firm tannins even after several years in bottle. Zymè, who planted Oseleta in 1998, estimate a total of 10–20 ha (25–50 acres) in the Valpolicella region. La Cappuccina include 10% Oseleta in the CARMENÈRE-based Campo Buri and 50% in their sweet passito wine called Carmenos (blended with Carmenère, hence Carmenos).
OSTEINER
Very minor German cross with a successful outpost in New Zealand.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Geisenheim 9-97
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
A RIESLING × SILVANER cross created by Heinrich Birk in 1929 at the Geisenheim research centre in the Rheingau, Germany, and authorized in 1984. This parentage has been confirmed by DNA profiling (Myles et al. 2011). It was named after Graf Friedrich Karl von Ostein, who constructed several buildings and gardens in Geisenheim. ORANIENSTEINER, Osteiner and RIESLANER are siblings.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Mid to late ripening. Very good resistance to downy mildew and quite resistant to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot. Regular yields with good sugar levels. Thick skins give assertive straw colour to the wine.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
There is about as much Osteiner in New Zealand as there is in Germany – about 1 ha (2.5 acres) in each. Rolfe Mills of Rippon Vineyards in Central Otago imported the variety in the mid 1990s. Rippon’s Hotere white, a 100% Osteiner, has aromas of currants and blossom plus a hint of lemon and is made in a fresh but off-dry style. More generally, the wines have good acidity and body.
ÖSTERREICHISCH WEISS
Rare light-skinned Viennese variety with a well-known offspring.
Berry colour: white
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Kahlenberger Weisse
VARIETIES COMMONLY MISTAKEN FOR ÖSTERREICHISCH WEISS: BRAUNER VELTLINER *, SILVANER * (called Österreichisch in Franken)
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Österreichisch Weiss (literally ‘Austrian White’) is an ancient variety cultivated mainly in the region of Kahlenberg near Wien (Vienna), hence its synonym Kahlenberger Weisse. DNA profiling has shown that Österreichisch Weiss spontaneously crossed with SAVAGNIN to give birth to SILVANER (Sefc, Steinkellner et al. 1998), and that Österreichisch Weiss is one of the numerous progenies of GOUAIS BLANC, the other parent being unknown (Regner et al. 1998).
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Good general disease resistance.
WHERE IT’S GROWN
Österreichisch Weiss was quite widely planted in the vineyards of Kahlenberg on the north side of Wien, capital of Austria, where a popular blend with 10% Traminer (SAVAGNIN) was known as Grinzinger.
Until the 1950s, it was used for the production of sparkling wine, but its importance has greatly diminished today (Sefc, Steinkellner et al. 1998). Alois Raubal (Bioweinbau-Raubal) has recently planted 300 vines of Österreichisch Weiss in Gumpoldskirchen south of Wien and produces a varietal wine.
OTSKHANURI SAPERE
Minor Georgian variety responsible for deeply coloured, ageworthy reds.
Berry colour: black
PRINCIPAL SYNONYMS: Argvetuli Sapere
ORIGINS AND PARENTAGE
Otskhanuri Sapere is indigenous to Imereti, western central Georgia, possibly named after the Otskha River. The Georgian word sapere means ‘dye’, in reference to the deep black colour of the berries.
VITICULTURAL CHARACTERISTICS
Mid budding, late ripening. Good general disease resistance.
WHERE IT’S GROWN AND WHAT ITS WINE TASTES LIKE
Grown in the western, subtropical part of Georgia, mostly in the villages of Rodinauli, Sviri, Dimi and Obcha in Imereti, Otskhanuri Sapere produces deeply coloured, well-structured and ageworthy red wines with distinctive varietal flavours of forest fruits, cherries and wild grasses. Khareba and Imeretian Wines produce good varietal examples.
OTTAVIANELLO
See CINSAUT.
OTTONESE
See BOMBINO BIANCO.
OVIDIOPOLSKY
Also called Nachodka or Nakhodka, Ovidiopolsky is a white-berried hybrid obtained in 1959 by P K Aivazian, Y N Dokuchaeva, M I Tulaeva, L F Meleshko, A P Abliazova and A K Samborskaya at the Tairov research centre in Odessa, Ukraine, by crossing SEVERNY with Odessky Ustoichivy, a BĂBEASCĂ NEAGRĂ × Rupestris du Lot (a variety of Vitis rupestris used as a rootstock) hybrid. It was registered in 1986. This vigorous, winter-hardy, mid- to late-ripening variety produces fruity, sometimes floral, dry wines in the Odessa region of Ukraine. It was used to breed ZAGREI.