Brittany

Brittany is for explorers. Its wild, dramatic coastline, medieval towns and thick forests make an excursion here well worth it. This is a land of prehistoric mysticism, proud tradition and culinary wealth, where fiercely independent locals celebrate Breton culture.

The entire region – Breizh in Breton – has a wonderfully undiscovered feel. Whether you explore world-famous sights like St-Malo and the Carnac megaliths or unexpected Breton gems such as small-town Quiberon or the Morbihan Coast, it does not take long to realise that there's far more to Brittany than sweet crêpes and homemade cider. Then there's Brittany's much-loved islands, très belle to boot.

Brittany in Two Days

Spend a day cycling between prehistoric megaliths ( GOOGLE MAP ) around Carnac; rent wheels at Carnac Plage, lunch on crêpes in Carnac town, and end the day with a refreshing dip in the Breton sea on Carnac's La Grand Plage. Dine on seafood in Quiberon. Day two, catch a ferry to Belle Île or head to nearby Vannes for scenic old-town mooching and boats to a deserted island in the Golfe du Morbihan.

Brittany in Four Days

With four days, you have time to travel further afield. Day three take in the island you didn't do the previous day, and on the last day consider a trip to St-Malo – a two- to three-hour train ride from Vannes (change trains in Rennes) or a scenic two-hour motor across inland Brittany. Explore its old-town streets, walk its ramparts and devour.

travellight / Shutterstock ©

Arriving in Brittany

Gare Maritime de St-Malo Ferries to/from the Channel Islands, Portsmouth and Poole.

St-Malo train station Regular trains to/from Paris (€45 to €79, 3½ hours). Change trains in Rennes (€15, one hour) for Vannes (€36, 2½ hours).

Aéroport Dinard Bretagne Ryanair flights from London Stansted, Bradford-Leeds and East Midlands to Dinard, a 20-minute drive from St-Malo and two hours from Carnac.

www.breizhgo.com Handy website.

Sleeping

From boutique B&Bs to ocean-side campgrounds, Brittany has it all. Advance reservations are essential, especially for St-Malo on the north coast and also Belle Île which fills up completely in July and August. Small towns Quiberon and Vannes are excellent bases for southern Brittany, with high lodging standards and hotels that stay open year-round. Carnac is equally hotel-loaded, albeit many are seasonal.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Carnac Megaliths

Predating Stonehenge by around 100 years, the Carnac (Garnag in Breton) area offers the world's greatest concentration of megalithic sites. There are no fewer than 3000 of these upright stones, erected between 5000 and 3500 BC.

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Incredible neolithic artefacts found in the region, on display at Carnac's Musée de Préhistoire.

8Need to Know

In summer buses shuttle between the main monolith sites, Carnac-Ville and Carnac-Plage.

5Take a Break

Wolf down flambéed crêpes and savoury galettes at Chez Marie in Carnac.

oTop Tip

Rent wheels to cycle between megaliths at A Bicyclette by Carnac Plage.

Two perplexing questions arise from Brittany's neolithic menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs, tumuli and cairns. Just how did the original constructors hew, then haul, these blocks (the heaviest weighs 300 tonnes), millennia before the wheel and the mechanical engine reached Brittany? And why? Theories and hypotheses abound, but common consensus is that they served some kind of sacred purpose – a spiritual impulse like that behind so many monuments built by humankind.

Just north of Carnac, a vast array of monoliths stand in several distinct alignments, all visible from the road, though fenced for controlled admission. The best way to appreciate their sheer size and numbers is to walk or bike between the Ménec and Kerlescan groups.

Maison des Mégalithes

Near the stones, the Maison des Mégalithes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 52 29 81; www.menhirs-carnac.fr; rte des Alignements, D196; tour adult/child €6/free; h9.30am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Apr, 9am-6pm May & Jun) explores the site's history and offers guided visits. Due to severe erosion the sites are fenced off to allow the vegetation to regenerate; certain areas are accessible only by guided tour. October to March you can wander freely through parts – the Maison des Mégalithes has maps of what's open.

Alignments

Opposite the Maison des Mégalithes, the largest menhir field – with 1099 stones – is the Alignements du Ménec, 1km north of Carnac-Ville. From here, the D196 heads northeast for about 1.5km to the equally impressive Alignements de Kermario (parts of which are open year-round). Climb the stone observation tower midway along the site to see the alignment from above.

The Tumulus de Kercado lies just east of Kermario and 500m to the south of the D196. It's the massive burial mound of a neolithic chieftain dating from 3800 BC. Deposit your fee (€1) in an honour box at the entry gate. About 300m east of the Kercado turnoff along the D196, lies the parking area for the Géant du Manio. A 15-minute walk brings you to it, the highest menhir in the complex.

The easternmost of the major groups is the Alignements de Kerlescan, a smaller grouping also accessible in winter.

Tumulus St-Michel

Tumulus St-Michel, 400m northeast of the Carnac-Ville tourist office, and accessed off the D781 at the end of rue du Tumulus, is a gigantic burial mound with a church on top. It dates back to at least 5000 BC and offers sweeping views (exterior access only).

Alignements de Kermario | Pecold / Shutterstock ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

St-Malo

The enthralling port town of St-Malo on Brittany's north coast has a dramatically changing landscape. With one of the world's greatest tidal ranges, this town is nature's finest theatre – and every tourist's summer heaven.

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Eye-popping views of the old city from the château's lookout tower.

8Need to Know

tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %08 25 13 52 00; www.saint-malo-tourisme.com; esplanade St-Vincent; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun; W)

5Take a Break

Throw back a Breton beer at L'Aviso ( GOOGLE MAP ; 12 rue Point du Jour; h6pm-2am) or dine on seafood at Le Chalut ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 99 56 71 58; 8 rue de la Corne de Cerf; mains €27-29, menus €29-79; h12.15-1.15pm & 7.15-9.15pm Wed-Sun).

oTop Tip

A combined ticket (€13/6 per adult/child) gives you access to St-Malo's four major monuments; buy it at the Musée d'Histoire.

Photo op paradise, St-Malo is an ancient walled city where brewing storms under blackened skies see waves lash the top of the ramparts ringing its beautiful walled city. Hours later, blue sky merges with the deep cobalt sea as the tide recedes, exposing broad beaches and creating land bridges to granite outcrop islands. Stunning!

Construction of the city fortifications began in the 12th century. The town became a key port during the 17th and 18th centuries as a base for both merchant ships and government-sanctioned privateers (pirates, basically) against the constant threat of the English.

Intra-Muros

The tangle of streets within the walled city, known as Intra-Muros ('within the walls'), are a highlight of a visit to Brittany. Grand merchants' mansions and sea captains' houses line the narrow lanes, and open squares are tucked in its heart.

For the finest panoramas, stroll along the jetty that pokes out to sea off the southwestern tip of Intra-Muros from the end of which you'll get the wide angle view – or, to zoom in, clamber along the top of the ramparts which surround the town. Constructed at the end of the 17th century under military architect Vauban, and measuring 1.8km, the ramparts can be accessed at several points, including at all the main city gates.

The city's centrepiece, Cathédrale St-Vincent ( GOOGLE MAP ; place Jean de Châtillon; h9.30am-6pm), was constructed between the 12th and 18th centuries. During ferocious fighting in 1944 during WWII the cathedral was badly hit; much of its original structure (including its spire) was reduced to rubble – as was a staggering 80% of the city. The cathedral was rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1971.

For the full low-down on the life and history of St-Malo, head to the Musée d'Histoire ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 99 40 71 57; www.ville-saint-malo.fr/culture/les-musees; Château; adult/child €6/3; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm daily Apr-Sep, Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) inside Château de St-Malo, built by the dukes of Brittany in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Jetty, St-Malo | Oliver Hoffmann / Shutterstock ©

Île du Grand Bé

At low tide, cross the beach to walk out via Porte des Bés to Île du Grand Bé, the rocky islet where the great St-Malo-born 18th-century writer Chateaubriand is buried. About 100m beyond the island is the privately owned, Vauban-built, 17th-century Fort du Petit Bé. The owner runs 30-minute guided tours in French; leaflets are available in English. Once the tide rushes in, the causeway remains impassable for about six hours; check tide times with the tourist office.

riekephotos / Shutterstock ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Breton Island Life

Brittany's south coast islands, dotted with black sheep and crossed with craggy coastal paths and windswept cycling tracks, are big draws. Think turquoise waters, abundant wildflowers and little to do but walk, cycle or picnic in perfect peace.

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8Need to Know

Belle Île tourist office (%02 97 31 81 93; www.belle-ile.com; quai Bonnelle, Le Palais; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year; W)

oTop Tip

Rent a bicycle on Belle Île in Le Palais; pay about €13 per day.

Belle Île

Belle Île (in full, Belle-Île-en-Mer, 'beautiful island in the sea') lives up to its name: rugged cliffs and rock stacks line the island's west coast while picturesque pastel ports nestle along the eastern side.

Accessed by ferries from Quiberon, the island population swells tenfold in summer. Brittany's largest offshore island (20km by 9km) has two main settlements: the port of Le Palais on the east side of the island with a dramatic Vauban citadel, now a history museum (%02 97 31 85 54; www.citadellevauban.com; Le Palais; adult/child €8/5; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Dec & Feb-Jun); and smaller, even more charming Sauzon in the northeast.

The best way to appreciate the island's waterside charms is from the 95km coastal footpath. The fretted western coast has spectacular rock formations and caves, including Grotte de l'Apothicairerie where waves roll in from two sides; Vives Eaux (%02 97 31 00 93; www.vives-eaux.fr; chemin de Port Puce, Sauzon; tours adult/child from €34/24, rental per hr €11; hMay-Oct) organises excellent kayaking expeditions and guided tours.

Just off the western side of the island, the magnificent rock stacks of Aiguilles de Port Coton that resemble aiguilles (needles) are a must-see for photographers. The name Port Coton comes from the way the sea foams around the rocks, creating foam like cotton wool. These dramatic rock formations were depicted in a series of famous canvases by Claude Monet.

The island's northernmost point juts out at Pointe des Poulains. Flanked by craggy cliffs, this windswept headland is Belle Île's loftiest lookout, and was once the home of renowned actress Sarah Bernhardt. Her former fortress home is open to the public from April to October.

Sauzon | Captblack76 / Shutterstock ©

yDon't Miss

Local agneau de pré salé, tasty lamb with a distinct savoury taste due to grazing on salty pastures. Pair with a crisp white.

Belle Beaches

Belle Île is blessed with beautiful beaches. The largest is 2km-long Plage des Grands Sables, spanning the calm waters of the island's eastern side. Sheltered Plage d'Herlin, on the south side, is best for kids.

Golfe du Morbihan

Around 40 islands peep out from the shallow waters of the Morbihan Gulf, which forms a breathtakingly beautiful inland sea that's easily accessible from Vannes. Some islands are barely sandy specks of land, while others harbour communities of fishermen, farmers and artistic types seduced by the island lifestyle. The bay's largest island is the 6km-long Île aux Moines. Nearby Île d'Arz is smaller – just 3km long and 1km wide – but it's the most scenic of the lot and features secluded sands and coastal walks. Tempted to stay? Both islands have a slew of B&Bs and eateries.

Lots of companies offer scenic cruises and ferry services to Île aux Moines and Île d'Arz and beyond. In high season check with Navix (%08 25 13 21 00; www.navix.fr; hApr-Sep) and La Compagnie du Golfe (%02 97 01 22 80; www.compagnie-du-golfe.fr; Vannes; cruise adult/child from €16.50/11.50; hApr-Sep). Year-round Bateaux-Bus du Golfe (%02 97 44 44 40; www.ile-arz.fr; adult/child return €10.20/5.60; h6.30am-8pm) runs ten to 14 boats per day between Vannes port or Conleau and Île d'Arz. Izenah Croisières (%02 97 26 31 45; www.izenah-croisieres.com; adult/child return €5/2.70) runs boats from the port at Baden to Île aux Moines year-round.

5Take a Break

On Belle Île, enjoy a kettle of mussels at bistro Le Verre à Pied (%02 97 31 29 65; 3 place de la République, Le Palais; mains €13-20, lunch menus €16-19; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Thu-Tue Feb-Dec) in central Le Palais. Finish with a slice of Breton cake for dessert.

Le Palais, Belle Île | LEROY Francis / hemis.fr ©

Carnac

With enticing beaches and a pretty town centre, Carnac would be a popular tourist town even without its collection of magnificent megalithic sites, but when these are thrown into the mix you end up with a place that is unmissable on any ramble through Brittany.

Carnac, some 32km west of Vannes, comprises the old stone village Carnac-Ville and, 1.5km south, the seaside resort of Carnac-Plage, which is bordered by the 2km-long sandy beach.

1Sights

Musée de PréhistoireMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 52 22 04; www.museedecarnac.fr; 10 place de la Chapelle, Carnac-Ville; adult/child €6/2.50; h10am-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Jun & Sep, shorter hours Oct-Mar)

The Musée de Préhistoire is choc full of the finds from the megalithic sites throughout the region. The museum chronicles life in and around Carnac from the Palaeolithic and Neolithic eras to the Middle Ages, and is a must for seeing beautifully made neolithic axe heads, pottery, jewellery and other priceless artefacts.

Life's a Beach!

Not only is Carnac a fantastic open-air museum that appeals to culture vultures, it's also a superb playground for beachy types. La Grande Plage is Carnac's longest and most popular beach and is excellent for sunbathing – it's a 2km-long stretch of white sand 2km south of Carnac-Ville. To the west, plage de Légenèse and plage de St-Colomban are smaller and quieter. St-Colomban appeals to windsurfers.

5Eating

Carnac is rife with tourist-focused eateries, but several of the hotels have great restaurants, and there is one gastronomic gem.

Chez Marie | Victor Maschek / Shutterstock ©

Chez MarieCrêpes€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 52 07 93; 3 place de l'Église, Carnac-Ville; mains €6-13, menus €10-15; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun)

Established in 1959, this Carnac institution churns out savoury galettes and sweet crêpes in a charmingly traditional stone house opposite the church. Connoisseurs recommend its flambéed specialities, especially the Arzal galette, with scallops, apples and cider.

La CôteGastronomy€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 52 02 80; www.restaurant-la-cote.com; impasse Parc Er Forn, Kermario; lunch menu €26, dinner menus €37-83; h12.15-2pm Wed-Sun, 7.15-9.15pm Tue-Sun)

Top recommendation on the Morbihan Coast goes to this Carnac restaurant run by Carnacois maître-cuisinier Pierre Michaud, who has won plaudits for his inventive cuisine that combines the very best Breton ingredients. The setting is another drawcard, with an elegant dining room and a soothing terrace overlooking a small fish pond. Find it in a quiet property close to the Alignements de Kermario.

Save room for dessert – homemade ice creams in flavours like lemongrass are delicious.

Celtic Fest

Celtic communities from Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Cornwall, the Isle of Man and Galicia in northwest Spain congregate with Bretons at the Festival Interceltique de Lorient ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.festival-interceltique.com; Lorient) over 10 days in early August. Upwards of 600,000 people descend on the city of Lorient, about 30km northwest of Carnac, so book well ahead if you're planning to stay in town for the festival.

8Information

Tourist Office (%02 97 52 13 52; www.ot-carnac.fr; 74 av des Druides, Carnac-Plage; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun Jul-Aug, 9.30-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 3-6pm Sun Apr-Jun & Sep, shorter hrs rest of yr; W) Also has an office at Carnac-Ville, next to the church. Excellent map of nearby neolithic sites. Has a smartphone app.

8Getting There & Around

Bicycle

Hire bikes and cycle buggies from A Bicyclette (%02 97 52 75 08; www.velocarnac.com; 93bis av des Druides, Carnac-Plage; bicycle per day from €10, buggy per hour from €8) down near the beach.

Bus

The main bus stops are in Carnac-Ville, outside the police station on rue St-Cornély, and in Carnac-Plage, beside the tourist office. Tim (%08 10 10 10 56; www.morbihan.fr; ticket €2) runs a daily bus (line 1) to Auray, Vannes and Quiberon (€2).

Train

The nearest useful train station is in Auray, 12km to the northeast. SNCF has an office in the Carnac-Plage tourist office where you can buy advance tickets.

Quiberon

Quiberon (Kiberen in Breton) sits at the southern tip of a thin, 14km-long peninsula, called the Presqu'île de Quiberon, flanked on the western side by the rocky, wave-lashed Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast). The setting is superb, with a heady mix of lovely beaches and rugged inlets, but the town itself is quite tacky, and finding a parking spot is like looking for a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. Even so, it's wildly popular in summer and is also the departure point for ferries to Belle Île. For outdoorsy types, there are plenty of water sports available, from diving and snorkelling to sea kayaking and char à voile (sand yachting).

1Sights & Activities

SillagesKayaking

(%06 81 26 75 08; www.kayak-sillages.com; 9 av de Groix, St-Pierre-Quiberon; adult/child from €20/17; hdaily by reservation)

What about a morning paddle far from the crowds along the Côte Sauvage? This reputable outfit based in St-Pierre-Quiberon (look for the 'Base Nautique') runs guided kayaking tours for all levels – beginners are welcome.

La Grande PlageBeach

La Grande Plage is a family-friendly beach; bathing spots towards the peninsula's tip are less crowded.

Detour: Vannes

What a beauty! Overlooking the Golfe du Morbihan, Vannes is one of Brittany's most beautiful towns. Spectacular fortifications encircle meandering alleys and cobbled squares, leading down to a sparkling cafe-lined marina. The city preserves much of its medieval atmosphere, has a lively bar and restaurant scene year-round, and is a lovely stop en route to the glittering island-studded Golfe du Morbihan and nearby neolithic sites.

Vannes' old town is surrounded by massive ramparts, in turn lined by a moat, and on the eastern edge flower-filled gardens. Tucked away behind rue des Vierges, stairs lead to the accessible section of the ramparts from which you can see the black-roofed Vieux Lavoirs (Old Laundry Houses) along the water. Or walk rue Francis Decker, on the wall's eastern exterior, to take it all in.

Within the walls, the old city is a jumble of timber-framed houses and wonky merchants' mansions, especially around place des Lices and place Henry IV. Opposite the cathedral, La Cohue ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 01 63 00; www.mairie-vannes.fr; place St-Pierre; adult/child €4.60/free; h1.30-6pm daily Jun-Sep, Tue-Sun Oct-May) has variously been a produce market, a law court and the seat of the Breton parliament. Today it's a well-curated fine arts museum.

5Eating

Seafood, of course, features on Quiberon menus. Le Petit Hôtel du Grand Large ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 58 31 99; www.lepetithoteldugrandlarge.fr; 11 quai St-Ivy, Portivy; d €115-135; W) has earned a Michelin star for its take.

Le VivierSeafood€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 50 12 60; Côte Sauvage; mains €8-25; hnoon-3pm & 7-8pm Tue-Sun Feb-Nov, plus Mon in Jul & Aug)

The food is almost secondary at this convivial eatery dramatically perched on a small cliff on the Côte Sauvage; bookings are essential for the top tables, squeezed onto a sunny terrace hovering above the rocky coastline. The menu is plain and unpretentious – think salads, mussels, smoked fish and shellfish.

From central Quiberon, follow the signs north to 'Côte Sauvage' for about 2km.

Restaurant de La CriéeSeafood€€

(%02 97 30 53 09; 11 quai de l'Océan; mains €20-30, menus €19-25; h12.15-2pm Tue-Sun, 7.15-9pm Tue-Sat)

On the harbourfront, La Criée has long been a favourite among fish lovers. Nautically themed and run by a talented team, the seafood here is a cut above most of Quiberon's bistros. Dover sole, fillet monkfish, brill cooked with apples, and red mullet in a fennel sauce all feature.

Villa MargotModern French€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 97 50 33 89; www.villamargot.fr; 7 rue de Port Maria; mains €23-29, lunch menu €18, other menus €34-45; h12.15-1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Thu-Mon)

The interior of this stunning stone restaurant looks like it would be at home in a chic Parisian quartier, with original art on the walls, flower-shaped opaque glass light fittings, hot-pink and brown colour schemes, and lobsters clawing in the live tank. That is, until you head out onto the timber deck, which has direct access to the beach for a post-repast stroll.

8Information

Tourist Office (%02 97 50 07 84; www.quiberon.com; 14 rue de Verdun; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sun Aug, shorter hours rest of year; W) Between the train station and La Grande Plage.

8Getting There & Around

Bicycle

Cycles Loisirs (%02 97 50 31 73; www.cyclesloisirs.free.fr; 32 rue Golvan; touring/mountain bikes per day from €9.50/13), 200m north of the tourist office, rents touring/mountain bikes. Cyclomar (%02 97 50 26 00; www.cyclomar.fr; 47 place Hoche; touring/mountain bikes per day from €9.50/11, scooters incl helmet per day from €39.50), around 200m south of the tourist office, rents out bikes at similar prices as well as scooters. It also runs an operation from the train station during July and August.

Boat

Compagnie Océane (%08 20 05 61 56, 02 97 35 02 00; www.compagnie-oceane.fr; adult/child return €34.50/18.50) runs ferries between Quiberon and Belle-Île, and Houat and Hoëdic islands. Park at Sémaphore car park 1.5km north of the harbour front, and take the free shuttle to the port.

Bus

Quiberon is connected by Tim bus line 1 with Carnac (45 minutes), Auray (1¼ hours) and Vannes (1¾ hours). Buses stop at the train station and at place Hoche, near the tourist office and the beach.

Car

High-summer traffic is hellish – consider leaving your vehicle at the 1100-spot Sémaphore car park (€4.80 for up to four hours, €13.70 for 24 hours, April to September), 1.5km north of the harbour front, and walking or taking the free shuttle bus into town. Parking is much easier in town in winter.