Provence

Travelling in this sun-blessed part of southern France translates as touring scenic back roads strewn with stunning landscapes: fields of lavender, ancient olive groves and snow-tipped mountains. It's home to Europe's deepest canyon, oldest road and highest mountain pass.

Food is a central part of French life, but in Provence it's an all-consuming passion. Dominated by the hallowed ingredients of Mediterranean cooking – olive oil, wine, tomatoes and garlic – the region's cuisine is a highlight, be it savouring a simple bowl of soupe au pistou, or shopping for delicate courgette flowers and sweet Cavaillon melons at the market.

Provence in Two Days

Spend day one in Avignon, exploring the old town and the Palais des Papes. On day two, depending on your interests, make a day trip to either Les Baux de Provence for hilltop-village meandering – stop en route at Cavaillon's morning market – or to the Pont du Gard for Roman history and memorable canoeing action on the River Gard.

Provence in Four Days

Day three, motor an hour southeast to Aix-en-Provence for market shopping and lunch. Either spend the afternoon here too or drive another hour north into the Lubéron to hop between hilltop villages – don't miss a red-rock hike in Roussillon and sunset in Gordes. Devote the fourth day to exploring Moustiers Ste-Marie and driving the dramatic Gorges du Verdon.

Linhking / 500px ©

Arriving in Provence

Aéroport Marseille-Provence Buses to Aix-en-Provence every 20 minutes. Direct trains to Avignon Centre (€17.70, 50 minutes to 1½ hours, hourly) and Nîmes (€18.70, one hour, several daily).

Aéroport Avignon-Provence Bus 30 (www.tcra.fr; €1.30, 25 minutes, Monday to Saturday) to the post office and LER bus 22 (www.info-ler.fr; €1.50) to Avignon bus station and TGV station. Taxis about €35.

Sleeping

Provence has a huge, varied range of accommodation, from urban hotel to countryside chambre d'hôte. Prices go through the roof in summer. Avignon is an excellent base for the Vaucluse and Pont du Gard (a 30-minute drive); Apt and its rural surrounds are perfect for touring the Lubéron's hilltop villages; magical Moustiers Ste-Marie is a key stop for Gorge du Verdon explorers.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Hilltop Villages

Impossibly perched on a rocky peak, gloriously lost in back country, fortified or château-topped: Provence's impressive portfolio of villages perchés calls for go-slow touring – on foot, by bicycle or car. Most villages are medieval, built from golden stone and riddled with cobbled lanes, flower-filled alleys and fountain-pierced squares. Combine with a long lazy lunch for a perfect day.

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8Need to Know

Apt tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 03 18; www.luberon-apt.fr; 20 av Philippe de Girard; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)

oTop Tip

Visit early in the morning or just before sunset for the best light and fewer crowds.

Les Baux-de-Provence

Clinging precariously to an ancient limestone baou (Provençal for ‘rocky spur’), this fortified hilltop village is among France's most visited. Narrow cobbled streets wend up to the splendid ruined castle of Château des Baux. (%04 90 54 55 56; www.chateau-baux-provence.com; adult/child Apr-Sep €10/8, Oct-Mar €8/6; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm Apr-Jun & Sep, reduced hours Oct-Mar) These dramatic maze-like ruins date to the 10th century. The clifftop castle was largely destroyed in 1633, during the reign of Louis XIII, and is a thrilling place to explore – climb crumbling towers for incredible views, descend into disused dungeons, and flex your knightly prowess with giant medieval weapons dotting the open-air site. Medieval-themed entertainment abounds in summer.

Les Baux-de-Provence | Patrice Coppee / Getty Images ©

Gordes

Like a giant wedding cake rising over the rivers Sorgue and Calavon, the tiered village of Gordes juts spectacularly out of the white-rock face of the Vaucluse plateau. Come sunset, the village glows gold – an eye-popping sight.

From the central square, meander downhill along rue Baptistin Picca to Boulangerie de Mamie Jane (%04 90 72 09 34; rue Baptistin Picca; lunch menus from €6.50; h6.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu-Tue), a pocket-sized family-run bakery with outstanding bread, pastries, cakes and biscuits, including lavender-perfumed navettes and delicious peanut-and-almond brittle known as écureuil (from the French for squirrel).

Gordes | Fesus Robert / Shutterstock ©

yDon't Miss

Rows of summertime lavender in bloom at Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque (www.abbayedesenanque.com), a supremely peaceful and graceful Cistercian abbey 4km northwest of Gordes.

Roussillon

Dazzling Roussillon was once the centre of local ochre mining and is still unmistakably marked by its vivid crimson colour. Artist workshops lace its streets and the Sentier des Ocres (Ochre Trail; adult/child €2.50/free; h9.30am-5.30pm; c) plunges intrigued visitors into a mini-desert landscape of chestnut groves, pines and sunset-coloured ochre formations – it’s like stepping into a Georgia O’Keeffe painting. Information panels along the two circular trails (30 or 50 minutes) highlight flora to spot. Wear walking shoes and avoid white!

Ménerbes

Hilltop Ménerbes gained fame as the home of expat British author Peter Mayles, whose book A Year in Provence recounts his tales of renovating a farmhouse just outside the village in the late 1980s. Opposite the village's 12th-century church, the Maison de la Truffe et du Vin (House of Truffle & Wine; %04 90 72 38 37; www.vin-truffe-luberon.com; place de l’Horloge; h10am-noon & 2.30-6pm daily Apr-Oct, Thu-Sat Nov-Mar) represents 60 local domaines (wine-growing estates). April to October, there is free wine-tasting and wine sales at bargain-basement prices. Winter brings truffle workshops.

Lacoste

Lacoste has nothing to do with the designer brand – although it does have couturier connections. In 2001 designer Pierre Cardin purchased the 9th-century Château de Lacoste (%04 90 75 93 12; www.chateau-la-coste.com) where the Marquis de Sade (1740–1814) retreated in 1771, when his writings became too scandalous for Paris. The château was looted by revolutionaries in 1789, and the 45-room palace remained an eerie ruin until Cardin arrived. He created a 1000-seat theatre and opera stage adjacent, only open during July’s month-long Festival de Lacoste (www.festivaldelacoste.com). Daytime visits are possible only by reservation.

Lacoste | duchy / Shutterstock ©

5Take a Break

Allow 30 minutes from Bonnieux to Le Sanglier Paresseux (www.sanglierparesseux.com) in hilltop Caseneuve. Inventive cuisine showcases regional produce and views are sensational. Reserve.

Bonnieux

Settled during the Roman era, Bonnieux in Le Petit Lubéron is another bewitching hilltop town that still preserves its medieval character. It's intertwined with alleyways, cul-de-sacs and hidden staircases: from place de la Liberté, 86 steps lead to the 12th-century church. The Musée de la Boulangerie (%04 90 75 88 34; 12 rue de la République; adult/student/child €3.50/1.50/free; h10am-12:30pm & 2.30-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct), in an old 17th-century bakery building, explores the history of bread-making. Time your visit for the lively Friday market, which takes over most of the old town's streets.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Provençal Markets

Stalls groaning with fruit and veg, trays of cheese and saucisson (dry cured sausage) to sample, stallholders loudly plying their wares – markets are an essential element of Provençal life. Practically every village has at least one weekly morning market, packed with locals shopping and gossiping, and dozens of stalls selling everything from locally farmed produce to spices, soaps and handmade crafts.

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8Need to Know

Aix-en-Provence tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 42 16 11 61; www.aixenprovencetourism.com; 300 av Giuseppe Verdi; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sun, to 8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep; W)

oTop Tip

Take your own woven straw basket to blend in with the local crowd.

Aix-en-Provence

A pocket of left-bank Parisian chic deep in Provence, Aix (pronounced like the letter X) is all class: its leafy boulevards and public squares are lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions, punctuated by gurgling moss-covered fountains. Haughty stone lions guard its grandest avenue, cafe-laced cours Mirabeau, where fashionable Aixois pose on polished pavement terraces sipping espresso.

At the city’s food market ( GOOGLE MAP ; place Richelme; h7am-noon) trestle tables groan under the weight of marinated olives, goat's cheese, garlic, lavender, honey, peaches, melons, cherries and a bounty of other sun-kissed fruit, veg and seasonal foods. Plane trees shade the atmospheric T-shaped square where Aixois catch up over un café on cafe terraces after shopping.

Flower markets fill place des Prêcheurs (Sunday morning) and place de l’Hôtel de Ville (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings); and a flea market ( GOOGLE MAP ; place de Verdun; hTue, Thu & Sat mornings) promises quirky vintage finds three mornings a week.

Salami and sausages for sale at Aix-en-Provence’s food market | Adrian Hancu / Getty Images ©

yDon't Miss

Breads baked by artisanal boulanger Benoît Fradette at Farinoman Fou ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.farinomanfou.fr; 3 rue Mignet; breads €1-3; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat), a phenomenal Aix bakery with a constant queue outside.

Carpentras

For all-round atmosphere Carpentras' Friday morning market is unbeatable. Streets spill over with more than 350 stalls laden with bread, honey, cheese, olives, fruit and a rainbow of berlingots, Carpentras’ striped, pillow-shaped hard-boiled sweets. During winter a pungent truffle market murmurs with hushed-tone transactions. The truffle season is kicked off by Carpentras’ biggest fair, held during the Fête de St-Siffrein on 27 November, when more than 1000 stalls spread across town.

Markets aside, this slightly rundown agricultural town has but a handful of historic sights. A Greek trading centre and later a Gallo-Roman city, it became papal territory in 1229, and was also shaped by a strong Jewish presence; Jews who had been expelled from French crown territory took refuge here.

Apt

Apt’s huge Saturday-morning marché Provençal attracts hordes of locals and tourists alike. The principal town in the Luberon, Apt is edged on three sides by sharply rising plateaux surrounding a river that runs through town. At the market, look out for Apt's local speciality: fruits confits (candied fruits, sometimes also known as glacé or crystallised fruit), made with real fruit, in which the water is removed and replaced with a sugar syrup to preserve them.

5Take a Break

Lunch in Carpentras at fashionable brasserie Chez Serge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 21 24; www.chez-serge.com; 90 rue Cottier; lunch/dinner menus from €17/27; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Jun-Sep, noon-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Oct-May; Wc) – truffles in season!

Cavaillon

Cavaillon is synonymous with sweet cantaloupe melons – best shopped for at the small town's early morning Monday market, May to September, or during July's four-day Fête du Melon.

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

A moat of flowing water encircles the ancient and prosperous town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. This ‘Venice of Provence’ is home to several antiques villages, housing 300 dealers between them. Sunday is the big market day, with antique vendors participating as well, while Thursday offers a smaller market through the village streets.

L’Isle dates to the 12th century, when fishermen built huts on stilts above what was then a marsh. By the 18th century, canals lined with 70 giant wheels powered silk factories and paper mills. The exceptional historic centre is contained within canals dotted by creaking waterwheels – the one by the tiny park at ave des Quatre Otages is particularly photogenic. The ancient fishermen’s quarter, a tangle of narrow passageways, dead-ends in L’Isle's eastern corner and retains a town-within-a-town feeling.

A tourist-office (%04 90 38 04 78; www.oti-delasorgue.fr; place de la Liberté; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun) brochure details the attractions, and there's an app you can download.

Aix-en-Provence food market | Aurelien Laforet / Shutterstock ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Pont du Gard

Southern France has some fine Roman sites, but nothing can top the Unesco World Heritage–listed Pont du Gard, a breathtaking three-tiered aqueduct 25km west of Avignon.

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yDon't Miss

With kids: fun, hands-on learning in the Ludo play area.

8Need to Know

Pont du Gard (%04 66 37 50 99; www.pontdugard.fr; car & up to 5 passengers €18, after 8pm €10, by bicycle or on foot €7, after 8pm €3.50; hsite 24hr year-round, visitor centre & museum 9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep–mid-Jan & mid-Feb–Jun)

5Take a Break

Dine at outstanding restaurant Le Tracteur (www.lucietestud.com/letracteur/) in nearby Argilliers.

oTop Tip

Evening is a good time to visit: admission is cheaper and the bridge is illuminated.

The extraordinary three-tiered Pont du Gard was once part of a 50km-long system of channels built around 19 BC to transport water from Uzès to Nîmes. The scale is huge: the bridge is 48.8m high, 275m long and graced with 35 precision-built arches; it was sturdy enough to carry up to 20,000 cu metres of water per day.

Musée de la Romanité

Each block was carved by hand and transported from nearby quarries – no mean feat, considering the largest blocks weighed over 5 tonnes. The height of the bridge descends by 2.5cm across its length, providing just enough gradient to keep the water flowing – an amazing demonstration of the precision of Roman engineering. The Musée de la Romanité provides background on the bridge’s construction.

Mémoires de Garrigue

You can walk across the tiers for panoramic views over the Gard River, but the best perspective on the bridge is from downstream, along the 1.4km Mémoires de Garrigue walking trail.

Canoeing on the Gard

Paddling beneath the Pont du Gard is unforgettable. The best time to do it is early spring between April and June, as winter floods and summer droughts can sometimes make the river impassable.

The Gard flows from the Cévennes mountains all the way to the aqueduct, passing through the dramatic Gorges du Gardon en route.

Hire companies are in Collias, 8km from the bridge, a journey of about two hours by kayak. Depending on the season and height of the river, canoe further by being dropped upstream at Pont St-Nicholas (19km, four to five hours) or Russan (32km, six to seven hours); the latter includes a memorable paddle through the Gorges du Gardon.

There’s a minimum age of six. Life jackets are always provided, but you must be a competent swimmer.

Canoe Hire

oCanoë Collias (%04 66 22 87 20; www.canoe-collias.com; 194 chemin de St-Privat, Collias; adult/child from Collias €23/17, from Russan €35/25; h8am-8pm mid-Mar–late Oct) Single and tandem boats.

oKayak Vert (%04 66 22 80 76; www.kayakvert.com; 8 chemin de St-Vincent, Collias; adult/child from Collias €23/19, from Russan €41/37; h9am-6pm mid-May–Oct) Has one- to four-person boats.

oCanoë Le Tourbillon (%04 66 22 85 54; www.canoeletourbillon.com; 3 chemin du Gardon, Collias; adult/child from Collias €23/17, from Russan €36/24; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep) Canoe rental, picnic lunches, transport and equipment for via ferrata climbs on nearby Gardon massif (€15 for two hours).

sigurcamp / Shutterstock ©

Avignon

Attention, quiz fans: name the city where the pope lived during the 14th century. Answered Rome? Bzzz: sorry, wrong answer. The Provençal town of Avignon served as the centre of the Roman Catholic world, and though its stint as the seat of papal power only lasted a few decades, it's been left with an impressive legacy of ecclesiastical architecture, most notably the soaring, World Heritage–listed fortress-cum-palace known as the Palais des Papes.

Avignon is now best known for its annual arts festival, the largest in France, which draws thousands of visitors for several weeks in July. The rest of the year, it's a lovely city to explore, with boutique-lined streets, leafy squares and some excellent restaurants – as well as an impressive medieval wall that entirely encircles the old city.

Avignon

1Sights

1Collection LambertB5

2Musée AngladonC4

3Musée du Petit PalaisC1

4Palais des PapesC2

5Pont St-BénezetB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Avignon Guided ToursC5

7Le Carré du PalaisC3

5Eating

8Christian EtienneC3

9Ginette et MarcelC5

10L'ÉpicerieC3

11Les 5 SensB3

12Les HallesD4

13Maison VioletteC5

14Restaurant L'EssentielB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

15La ManutentionD2

16Milk ShopC5

1Sights

Palais des PapesPalace

(Papal Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palais-des-papes.com; place du Palais; adult/child €11/9, with Pont St-Bénezet €13.50/10.50; h9am-8pm Jul, to 8.30pm Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun)

The largest Gothic palace ever built, the Palais des Papes was built by Pope Clement V, who abandoned Rome in 1309 as a result of violent disorder following his election. It served as the seat of papal power for seven decades, and its immense scale provides ample testament to the medieval might of the Roman Catholic church. Ringed by 3m-thick walls, its cavernous halls, chapels and antechambers are largely bare today, but an audioguide (€2) provides a useful backstory.

Palais des Papes | Thanh Dromard / 500px ©

Musée du Petit PalaisMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 44 58; www.petit-palais.org; place du Palais; adult/child €6/free; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

The archbishops' palace during the 14th and 15th centuries now houses outstanding collections of primitive, pre-Rennaissance, 13th- to 16th-century Italian religious paintings by artists including Botticelli, Carpaccio and Giovanni di Paolo – the most famous is Botticelli’s La Vierge et l’Enfant (1470).

Pont St-BénezetBridge

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bd du Rhône; adult/child 24hr ticket €5/4, with Palais des Papes €13.50/10.50; h9am-8pm Jul, to 8.30pm Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun)

Legend says Pastor Bénezet had three saintly visions urging him to build a bridge across the Rhône. Completed in 1185, the 900m-long bridge with 20 arches linked Avignon with Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. It was rebuilt several times before all but four of its spans were washed away in the 1600s.

If you don't want to pay to visit the bridge, admire it for free from Rocher des Doms park or Pont Édouard Daladier or on Île de la Barthelasse's chemin des Berges.

Pont St-Bénezet and Palais des Papes, Avignon | Bertl123 / Getty Images ©

Musée AngladonGallery

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 29 03; www.angladon.com; 5 rue Laboureur; adult/child €8/6.50; h1-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 1-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar)

Tiny Musée Angladon harbours an impressive collection of impressionist treasures, including works by Cézanne, Sisley, Manet and Degas – but the star piece is Van Gogh's Railway Wagons, the only painting by the artist on display in Provence. Impress your friends by pointing out that the ‘earth’ isn’t actually paint, but bare canvas.

Collection LambertGallery

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 16 56 20; www.collectionlambert.com; 5 rue Violette; adult/child €10/8; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, to 7pm daily Jul & Aug)

Reopened in summer 2015 after significant renovation and expansion, Avignon's contemporary-arts museum focuses on works from the 1960s to the present. Work spans from minimalist and conceptual to video and photography – in stark contrast to the classic 18th-century mansion housing it.

Avignon Pass

An excellent-value discount card, Avignon Passion yields cheaper admission to big-hitter museums and monuments in Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. The first site visited is full price, but each subsequent site is discounted. The pass is free, is valid 15 days, covers a couple of tours too, and is available at the tourist office and at museums.

2Activities

Le Carré du PalaisWine Tasting

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 24 00; www.carredupalaisavignon.com; 1 place du Palais)

The historic Hôtel Calvet de la Palun building in central Avignon has been renovated into a wine centre promoting and serving Côtes du Rhône and Vallée du Rhône appellations. Stop in to get a taste of the local vintages.

Avignon Wine TourTours

(%06 28 05 33 84; www.avignon-wine-tour.com; per person €80-110)

Visit the region’s vineyards with a knowledgeable guide, leaving you free to enjoy the wine.

5Eating

Place de l’Horloge is crammed with touristy restaurants that don’t offer the best cuisine or value in town. Delve instead into the pedestrian old city where ample pretty squares tempt: place des Châtaignes and place de la Principle are two particularly beautiful restaurant-clad squares.

Restaurants open seven days during the summer festival season, when reservations become essential.

Maison VioletteBakery€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 59 44 62 94; place des Corps Saints; h7am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

We simply defy you to walk into this bakery and not instantly be tempted by the stacks of baguettes, ficelles and pains de campagnes loaded up on the counter, not to mention the orderly ranks of eclairs, millefeuilles, fruit tarts and cookies lined up irresistibly behind the glass. Go on, a little bit of what you fancy does you good, non?

Ginette et MarcelCafe€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 58 70; 27 place des Corps Saints; tartines €4.30-6.90; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon; c)

Set on one of Avignon's most happening plane-tree-shaded squares, this vintage cafe styled like a 1950s grocery is a charming spot to hang out and people-watch over a tartine (open-face sandwich), tart, salad or other light dish – equally tasty for lunch or an early-evening apéro. Kids adore Ginette's cherry- and violet-flavoured cordials and Marcel's glass jars of old-fashioned sweets.

Restaurant L'EssentielFrench€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 87 12; www.restaurantlessentiel.com; 2 rue Petite Fusterie; menus €32-46; hnoon-2pm & 7-9.45pm Tue-Sat)

Snug in an elegant, caramel-stone hôtel particulier, The Essential is one of the finest places to eat in town – inside or in the wonderful courtyard garden. Begin with courgette flowers poached in a crayfish and truffle sauce, then continue with rabbit stuffed with candied aubergine, perhaps.

L'ÉpicerieBistro€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 74 22; www.restaurantlepicerie.fr; 10 place St-Pierre; lunch/dinner menus from €16/23; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-10pm)

Traditional and unashamedly so, this cosy bistro is a fine spot for hearty French dishes, from homemade foie gras to a mixed platter of Provençal produce (€19). All the bistro boxes receive a big tick: checked tablecloths, vintage signs, friendly waiters, great local wines by the glass.

Christian EtienneFrench€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 16 50; www.christian-etienne.fr; 10 rue de Mons; lunch/dinner menus from €35/75; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

One of Avignon’s top tables, this much-vaunted restaurant occupies a 12th-century palace with a leafy outdoor terrace, adjacent to Palais des Papes. Interiors feel slightly dated, but the refined Provençal cuisine remains exceptional, and the restaurant has earned a Michelin star.

Les 5 SensGastronomy€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 26 51; www.restaurantles5sens.com; 18 rue Joseph Vernet; menus lunch €16-22, dinner €40-59; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.45-11.30pm Tue-Sat)

Chef Thierry Baucher, one of France's meilleurs ouvriers (top chefs), reveals his southwestern origins in specialities such as cassoulet and foie gras but skews contemporary-Mediterranean in gastronomic dishes such as butternut-squash ravioli with escargots. Surroundings are sleek; service is impeccable.

Lessons at the Market

Avignon's covered food market, Les Halles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.avignon-leshalles.com; place Pie; h6am-1.30pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun), has over 40 food stalls showcasing seasonal Provençal ingredients. Even better, free cooking demonstrations are held at 11am on Saturdays. Outside on place Pie, admire Patrick Blanc's marvellous vegetal wall.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Chic yet laid-back Avignon is awash with gorgeous, tree-shaded pedestrian squares buzzing with cafe life. Favourite options, loaded with pavement terraces and drinking opportunities, include place Crillon, place Pie, place de l'Horloge and Place des Corps Saints.

Students tend to favour the many bars dotted along the aptly named rue de la Verrerie (Glassware St).

La ManutentionBar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 rue des Escaliers Ste-Anne; hnoon-midnight)

No address better reflects Avignon's artsy soul than this bistro-bar at cultural centre La Manutention. Its leafy terrace basks in the shade of Palais des Papes' stone walls and, inside, giant conservatory-style windows open onto the funky decor of pocket-size bar Utopia. There's a cinema too.

Milk ShopCafe

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %09 82 54 16 82; www.milkshop.fr; 26 place des Corps Saints; h7.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-7pm Sat; W)

Keen to mingle with Avignon students? Make a beeline for this salon au lait ('milk bar') where super-thick ice-cream shakes (€4.50) are slurped through extra-wide straws. Bagels (€5 to €7), cupcakes and other American snacks create a deliberate US vibe, while comfy armchairs and wi-fi encourage hanging out.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 74 32 74; www.avignon-tourisme.com; 41 cours Jean Jaurès; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar) Offers guided walking tours and information on other tours and activities, including boat trips on the Rhône and wine-tasting trips to nearby vineyards. Smartphone apps too.

Tourist Office Annex (Gare Avignon TGV; hJun-Aug) During summer, Avignon has an information booth at the TGV station.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Aéroport Avignon-Provence (AVN; GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 81 51 51; www.avignon.aeroport.fr; Caumont) In Caumont, 8km southeast of Avignon. Direct flights to London, Birmingham and Southampton in the UK.

Bus

The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; bd St-Roch; hinformation window 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) is next to the central train station. Tickets are sold on board. For schedules, see www.lepilote.com, www.info-ler.fr and www.vaucluse.fr. Long-haul companies Linebús ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 30 48; www.linebus.com) and Eurolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 27 60; www.eurolines.com) have offices at the far end of bus platforms and serve places like Barcelona.

Aix-en-Provence €17.40, LER Line 23, 1¼ hours, six daily Monday to Saturday, two on Sunday.

Carpentras €2, Transvaucluse Line 5.1, 45 minutes, two or three hourly Monday to Saturday, every two hours Sunday.

Train

Avignon has two train stations: Gare Avignon Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 42 bd St-Roch), on the southern edge of the walled town, and Gare Avignon TGV ( GOOGLE MAP ; Courtine), 4km southwest in Courtine. Local shuttle trains link the two every 20 minutes (€1.60, five minutes, 6am to 11pm). Note that there is no luggage storage at the train station.

Destinations served by TGV include Paris Gare du Lyon (€35 to €80, 3½ hours), Marseille (€17.50, 35 minutes) and Nice (€31 to €40, 3¼ hours). Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) services operate one to five times weekly between Avignon TGV and London (from €59.50, 5¾ hours) en route to/from Marseille.

Marseille €17.50, 1¼ to two hours.

Marseille airport (Vitrolles station) €14.50, one to 1½ hours.

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Vélopop (%08 10 45 64 56; www.velopop.fr) Shared-bicycle service, with 17 stations around town. The first half-hour is free; each additional half-hour is €1. Membership per day/week is €1/5.

Provence Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 92 61; www.provence-bike.com; 7 av St-Ruf; bicycles per day/week from €12/65, scooters €25/150; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 10am-1pm Sun Jul) Rents city bikes, mountain bikes, scooters and motorcycles.

Car & Motorcycle

Find car-hire agencies at both train stations (reserve ahead, especially in July). Narrow, one-way streets and impossible parking make driving within the ramparts difficult: park outside the walls. The city has 900 free spaces at Parking de L'Ile Piot ( GOOGLE MAP ), and 1150 at Parking des Italiens ( GOOGLE MAP ), both under surveillance and served by the free TCRA shuttle bus (Transports en Commun de la Région d’Avignon; %04 32 74 18 32; www.tcra.fr). On directional signs at intersections, 'P' in yellow means pay lots; 'P' in green, free lots. Pay Parking Gare Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 80 74 40; bd St-Roch; h24hr) is next to the central train station.

Moustiers Ste-Marie

Dubbed ‘Étoile de Provence’ (Star of Provence), jewel-box Moustiers Ste-Marie crowns towering limestone cliffs, which mark the beginning of the Alps and the end of Haute-Provence’s rolling prairies. A 227m-long chain, bearing a shining gold star, is stretched high above the village – a tradition, legend has it, begun by the Knight of Blacas, who was grateful to have returned safely from the Crusades. Twice a century, the weathered chain snaps, and the star gets replaced, as happened in 1996. In summer, it’s clear that Moustiers’ charms are no secret.

1Sights

Chapelle Notre Dame de BeauvoirChurch

(guided tours adult/child €3/free)

Lording over the village, beneath Moustiers’ star, this 14th-century church clings to a cliff ledge like an eagle’s nest. A steep trail climbs beside a waterfall to the chapel, passing 14 stations of the cross en route. On 8 September, Mass at 5am celebrates the nativity of the Virgin Mary, followed by flutes, drums and breakfast on the square.

Musée de la FaïenceMuseum

(%04 92 74 61 64; rue Seigneur de la Clue; adult/student/under 16yr €3/2/free; h10am-12.30pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm or 6pm rest of year, closed Tue year-round)

Moustiers’ decorative faïence (glazed earthenware) once graced the dining tables of Europe’s most aristocratic houses. Today each of Moustiers’ 15 ateliers has its own style, from representational to abstract. Antique masterpieces are housed in this little museum, adjacent to the town hall.

2Activities

Des Guides pour l’AventureOutdoors

(%06 85 94 46 61; www.guidesaventure.com)

Offers activities including canyoning (from €45 per half-day), rock climbing (€40 for three hours), rafting (€45 for 2½ hours), and ‘floating’ (€50 for three hours) – which is like rafting, except you have a buoyancy aid instead of a boat.

5Eating

La GrignotièreProvencal€

(%04 92 74 69 12; rte de Ste-Anne; mains €6-15; h11.30am-10pm May-Sep, to 6pm Feb–mid-May)

Hidden behind the soft pink façade of Moustier’s Musée de la Faïence is this utterly gorgeous, blissfully peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful, eye-catching decor – including the handmade glassware – is the handiwork of talented, dynamic owner Sandrine. Cuisine is ‘picnic chic,’ meaning lots of creative salads, tapenades, quiches and so on.

La Treille MuscateProvencal€€

(%04 92 74 64 31; www.restaurant-latreillemuscate.fr; place de l’Église; lunch/dinner menus from €24/32; hnoon-2pm Fri-Wed, 7.30-10.30pm Fri-Tue)

The top place to eat in the village proper: classic Provençal cooking served with panache, either in the stone-walled dining room or on the terrace with valley views. Expect tasty dishes like oven-roasted lamb served with seasonal veg and rainbow trout with sauce vierge. Reservations recommended.

La Ferme Ste-CécileGastronomy€€

(%04 92 74 64 18; D952; menus €29-38; hnoon-2pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

Just outside Moustiers, this wonderful ferme auberge (country inn) immerses you in the full Provençal dining experience, from the sun-splashed terrace and locally picked wines right through to the chef’s meticulous Mediterranean cuisine. It’s about 1.2km from Moustiers; look out for the signs as you drive towards Castellane.

La Bastide de MoustiersGastronomy€€€

(%04 92 70 47 47; www.bastide-moustiers.com; chemin de Quinson; lunch menus €40-50, dinner menus €64-82; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm May-Sep, closed Tue & Wed Oct-Apr; a)

Legendary chef Alain Ducasse has created his own Provençal bolthole here, and it’s an utter treat from start to finish, from the playful amuses bouches to the rich, sauce-heavy mains and indulgent desserts. The views from the terrace are dreamy too. Dress smartly and reserve ahead in high season. It’s 500m down a country lane, signposted off the D952 to Ste-Croix de Verdon.

8Getting There & Around

A car makes exploring the gorges much more fun, though if you’re very fit, cycling is an option too. Bus services run to Castellane and Moustiers, but there’s scant transport inside the gorges.