Nice
Vieux Nice
The Three Corniches
Sights
Activities
Tours
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Nice
With its mix of real-city grit, old-world opulence, year-round sunshine and stunning seaside location, Nice is the unofficial capital of the French Riviera (known as the Côte d’Azur in French), and a must-see for every visitor. A magnet for sunseekers since the 19th century, this bewitching coastal city has so much going for it, it’s almost embarrassing – fabulous markets, an enticing old town, glorious architecture and a wealth of super restaurants. It’s far from perfect – the traffic’s horrendous and the beach is made entirely of pebbles – but if you really want to soak up the Riviera vibe, there’s really no better place to do it.
Nice in Two Days
Explore Vieux Nice; lunch local at Chez René Socca and end on a natural high in Parc du Château. Spend the afternoon on Promenade des Anglais. Dine at Le Bistrot d’Antoine. Day two, discover Matisse and Chagall in Cimiez, and spend the afternoon learning about belle époque Nice at the Musée Masséna. Enjoy an aperitif at Les Distilleries Idéales and dinner at Olive et Artichaut.
Nice in Four Days
Shop for picnic supplies at cours Saleya food market, then head out of town and be wowed by huge sea views along the hair-raising Grande Corniche; visit La Turbie's Trophée des Alpes and picnic. Drop down to the Moyenne Corniche, ending in Èze for extraordinary Riviera views. Last day, follow the Corniche Inférieure along the coast to Monaco; lunch in Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Arriving in Nice
Aéroport Nice-Côte d’Azur Buses 98 and 99 to Promenade des Anglais and Nice train station respectively (€6, 35 minutes, every 20 minutes). Taxi to downtown Nice €23 to €31.
Nice train station In the centre of Nice, a 15-minute walk to Promenade des Anglais or 15 minutes to the waterfront by bus 12.
Sleeping
Accommodation is excellent and caters to all budgets, unlike many cities on the Côte d’Azur. Hotels charge substantially more during the Monaco Grand Prix and get booked up quickly in July and August; book well in advance in summer. For accommodation info online see Nice Tourisme (http://en.nicetourisme.com).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Vieux Nice
Getting lost among the narrow, winding alleyways of Nice’s old town is a highlight. The layout has barely changed since the 1700s, and restaurants, boutiques and bars pack out its atmospheric streets.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
A slice of socca (chickpea-flour pancake) on the raucous pavement terrace at Chez René Socca.
8Need to Know
Themed walking tours in English at the Centre du Patrimoine.
5Take a Break
Queue for a lavender and violet or tomato ice cream from master ice-cream maker Fenocchio.
oTop Tip
Duck and dive your way through the old town to Nice's fish market, place St-François.
Cours Saleya
This joyous, thriving market square – permanently thronged in summer – is the life and soul of Vieux Nice. Every morning, Tuesday to Sunday, from 6am until lunchtime, a massive food market (
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; cours Saleya; 
h6am-1.30pm Tue-Sun) fills much of the square, stalls laden with fruit and vegetables, olives marinated a dozen different ways, every herb and spice known under the Provençal sun – no market is a finer reflection of local Niçois life. An adjoining flower market (
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; cours Saleya; h6am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) is worth a meander just for its vibrant colours and fragrances; Monday ushers in a flea market (
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; cours Saleya; h8am-5pm Mon).
Baroque Gems
Baroque aficionados will adore architectural gems Cathédrale Ste-Réparate (
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; place Rossetti), honouring the city’s patron saint; and exuberant Chapelle de la Miséricorde (
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; cours Saleya), a chapel from 1740 renowned for its exceptionally rich architecture. Tricky to spot because of the narrow lane it sits on Palais Lascaris (
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; 
%04 93 62 72 40; 15 rue Droite; guided visit €6; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon), a 17th-century mansion housing a frescoed orgy of Flemish tapestries, faïence and gloomy religious paintings. On the ground floor is an 18th-century pharmacy.
Bird's-Eye Panorama
For the best views over Vieux Nice’s red-tiled rooftops, climb the winding staircases up to Parc du Château (
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; h8.30am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar), a wooded outcrop on the eastern edge of the old town. It’s been occupied since ancient times; archaeological digs have revealed Celtic and Roman remains, and the site was later occupied by a medieval castle that was razed by Louis XIV in 1706 – only the 16th-century Tour Bellanda remains. There are various entrances, including one beside the tower – or cheat and ride the free lift.
People Watching over Drinks
Lounging on an old-town cafe terrace, watching the world go by over a glass of pastis or post-beach cocktail, is a national pastime in Nice. Les Distilleries Idéales (
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; %04 93 62 10 66; www.lesdistilleriesideales.fr; 24 rue de la Préfecture; h9am-12.30am) is best for beer on tap and local wine in the old town, and choices abound on cafe-lined cours Saleya.
Or nip around to La Shounga, an all-day cocktail bar with ice-cream sundaes and other desserts. Snag a seat outside gazing out at the Med and know you’ve hit Nice’s jet-setter jackpot.
TOP EXPERIENCE
The Three Corniches
This trio of corniches (coastal roads) hugs the cliffs between Nice and Monaco, each higher than the last, with dazzling views of the Med. For the grandest views, it’s the Grande Corniche you want, but the Moyenne Corniche runs a close scenic second. The lowest of all, the Corniche Inférieure, allows access to a string of snazzy coastal resorts.
Great For…
8Need to Know
Bus 116 Nice-La Turbie; bus 82 Moyenne Corniche; trains and bus 100, Corniche Inférieure.
oTop Tip
Time to linger? Explore 14km of eucalyptus-scented walking paths on dreamy peninsula Cap Ferrat.
Grande Corniche
Views from the spectacular cliff-hanging Grande Corniche are mesmerising. Alfred Hitchcock was sufficiently impressed by Napoléon’s Grande Corniche to use it as a backdrop for his film To Catch a Thief (1956), starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Ironically, Kelly died in 1982 after crashing her car on this very same road.
Sitting 675m above the sea and just below Èze, Fort de la Revère is the perfect place to revel in 360-degree views. The fort was built in 1870 to protect Nice (it served as an Allied prisoner camp during WWII). There are picnic tables under the trees for an al fresco lunch and dozens of walking trails in the surrounding Parc Naturel Départemental de la Grande Corniche, a protected area that stretches along the D2564 from Col d’Èze to La Turbie.
There are no villages of note along the Grande Corniche until you reach hilltop La Turbie, known for its monumental Roman triumphal monument called Trophée des Alpes, visible from all directions. This amazing monument was built by Emperor Augustus in 6 BC to celebrate his victory over the Celto-Ligurian Alpine tribes that had fought Roman sovereignty (the names of the 45 tribes are carved on the western side of the monument). The tower teeters on the highest point of the old Roman road, with dramatic views of Monaco.
Moyenne Corniche
Cut through rock in the 1920s, the Moyenne Corniche takes drivers from Nice past the Col de Villefranche (149m) to Èze, a rocky little village perched on an impossible peak. A jewel in the Riviera crown, Èze is a medieval village stitched from a rabbit warren of small stone houses, winding lanes and second-to-none coastal views.
Gorge on the best panorama from Jardin Exotique d’Èze (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/child €6/2.50; h9am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun, to 5.30pm rest of year), a cactus garden at the top of the village, next to old castle ruins. Take time to sit here or in the garden’s Zen area to contemplate the stunning view: few places on earth offer such a wild panorama.
yDon't Miss
In the old town of Villefranche-sur-Mer, don't miss eerie, arcaded rue Obscure, a historical monument a block in from the water.
Corniche Inférieure
Skimming the villa-lined waterfront between Nice and Monaco, the lowest coastal road – the Corniche Inférieure – was built in the 1860s. It passes through a string of snazzy coastal resorts and is perfect for a dip in the sea.
Villefranche-sur-Mer is a gorgeous seaside village heaped above a picture-postcard harbour, with an imposing citadel. Its 14th-century old town, with evocatively named streets broken by twisting staircases and glimpses of the sea, is a delight to amble. Villefranche was a favourite of Jean Cocteau (1889–1963), who sought solace here in 1924 after the death of his companion Raymond Radiguet and went on to decorate the interior of 14th-century Chapelle St-Pierre (admission €3; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Oct-Mar) with a mirage of mystical frescoes.
In chic St-Jean-Cap Ferrat follow the crowds to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (%04 93 01 33 09; www.villa-ephrussi.com/en; St-Jean-Cap Ferrat; adult/child €13/10; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm Feb-Jun Sep & Oct, 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Jan), an over-the-top belle époque confection commissioned by Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild in 1912. The villa is filled with Fragonard paintings, Louis XVI furniture and Sèvres porcelain, and its nine exquisite themed gardens are stunning – sea views are supreme and fountains ‘dance’ to classical music every 20 minutes.
5Take a Break
Swoon-worthy sea views over a chic aperitif and/or a Michelin-starred meal at boutique restaurant-hotel Château Eza (www.chateaueza.com) in Èze.
1Sights
Promenade des AnglaisArchitecture
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The most famous stretch of seafront in Nice – if not France – is this vast paved promenade, which gets its name from the English expat patrons who paid for it in 1822. It runs for the whole 4km sweep of the Baie des Anges with a dedicated lane for cyclists and skaters; if you fancy joining them, you can rent skates, scooters and bikes from Roller Station.
Musée MassénaMuseum
(
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; %04 93 91 19 10; 65 rue de France; adult/child €6/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
Originally built as a holiday home for Prince Victor d’Essling (the grandson of one of Napoléon’s favourite generals, Maréchal Masséna), this lavish belle époque building is another of the city’s iconic architectural landmarks. Built between 1898 and 1901 in grand neoclassical style with an Italianate twist, it’s now a fascinating museum dedicated to the history of the Riviera – taking in everything from holidaying monarchs to expat Americans, the boom of tourism and the enduring importance of carnival.
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art ContemporainGallery
(MAMAC;
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; %04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac-nice.org; place Yves Klein; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
European and American avant-garde works from the 1950s to the present are the focus of this museum. Highlights include many works by Christo and Nice’s New Realists: Niki de Saint Phalle, César, Arman and Yves Klein. The building’s rooftop also works as an exhibition space (with knockout panoramas of Nice to boot).
Nice
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
7Shopping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
Modern Art in Cimiez
North of Nice centre is the wealthy residential neighbourhood of Cimiez, home to some outstanding museums and belle époque architecture.
oMusée Matisse (
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; %04 93 81 08 08; www.musee-matisse-nice.org; 164 av des Arènes de Cimiez; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon) This museum, 2km north in the leafy Cimiez quarter, houses a fascinating assortment of works by Matisse, including oil paintings, drawings, sculptures, tapestries and Matisse’s famous paper cut-outs. The permanent collection is displayed in a red-ochre 17th-century Genoese villa in an olive grove. Temporary exhibitions are in the futuristic basement building. Matisse is buried in the Monastère Notre Dame de Cimiez (
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; place du Monastère; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm) cemetery, across the park from the museum.
oMusée National Marc Chagall (
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; %04 93 53 87 20; www.musee-chagall.fr; 4 av Dr Ménard; adult/child €9/7; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr) The strange, dreamlike and often unsettling work of the Belarusian painter Marc Chagall (1887–1985) is displayed at this small museum, which owns the largest public collection of the painter’s work. The main hall displays 12 huge interpretations (1954–67) of stories from Genesis and Exodus. From the city centre, allow about 20 minutes to walk to the museum (signposted from av de l’Olivetto).
2Activities
Roller StationSkating
(
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; %04 93 62 99 05; www.roller-station.fr; 49 quai des États-Unis; skates, boards & scooters per hr/day €5/10, bicycles €5/15; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Sep-Jun)
For a fantastic family outing, rent inline skates, skateboards, scooters and bicycles at this rental outlet to whizz along Nice’s silky smooth Promenade des Anglais. You’ll need some ID as a deposit. Count an extra €1/2 per hour/day for protective gear (helmet and pads).
Mobilboard NiceSegway
(
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; %04 93 80 21 27; www.mobilboard.com/nice-promenade; 2 rue Halévy; 30min initiation €17, 1/2hr tour €30/50)
For an effortless cruise along Promenade des Anglais, hop aboard an electric Segway. Rental includes a 15-minute lesson on how to ride the two-wheeled, battery-powered ‘vehicle,’ protective helmet and audioguide.
2Beaches
Officially there are 25 named beaches strung out along the Baie des Anges, some of which are free, others of which are reserved solely for paying clientele. All are pebbly, so sensitive behinds might opt for one of the private beaches (€15 to €22 per day) which come with sun-loungers and comfy mattresses.
Free cold-water showers, lifeguards and first-aid posts are available most of the way along the bay, including on the public beaches; there are also a few public toilets for which you have to pay a small charge. Most beaches also offer activities, from beach volleyball to jet-skis and pedalos.
Nudity is perfectly acceptable on Nice’s beaches, and locals certainly aren’t shy about letting it all hang out – but of course, there's no obligation to bare all (or anything).
Plage Publique des PonchettesBeach
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Right opposite Vieux Nice, this is generally the busiest beach of all, with oiled bodies either baking in the sun or punching a ball on the beach-volleyball court.
Detour: Monaco
Squeezed into just 200 hectares (2.8 sq km), this glitzy, glam confetti principality – the world’s second-smallest country – is truly beguiling. Day trip it from Nice, an easy 25-minute train journey (€3.30) along the coast.
Ogling at Carlo’s legendary marble-and-gold casino (
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; %98 06 21 21; www.montecarlocasinos.com; place du Casino; 9am-noon €10, from 2pm Salons Ordinaires/Salons Privées €10/20; hvisits 9am-noon, gaming 2pm-2am or 4am or when last game ends) is a Monaco essential. The building, open to visitors every morning, is Europe's most lavish example of belle époque architecture. To gamble or watch the poker-faced play, visit after 2pm (strictly over-18s).
Monaco's other must-see is the Musée Océanographique de Monaco (
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; %93 15 36 00; www.oceano.mc; av St-Martin; adult €11-16, child €7-12; h9.30am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Apr-Jun & Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar), stuck dramatically to the edge of a cliff since 1910. Its centrepiece is its aquarium with a 6m-deep lagoon where sharks and marine predators are separated from colourful tropical fishes by a coral reef. Enjoy sweeping views of Monaco and the Med from the rooftop cafe terrace.
For motor sports fans, Monaco tourist office (
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; www.visitmonaco.com; 2a bd des Moulins; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm Sun) has maps of the iconic, 3.2km F1 circuit that tears around town in late May.
TTours
Trans Côte d’AzurBoating
(
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; www.trans-cote-azur.com; quai Lunel; hApr-Oct)
Trans Côte d’Azur runs one-hour boat cruises along the Baie des Anges and Rade de Villefranche (adult/child €18/12.50) April to October. Mid-June to mid-September it sails to Île Ste-Marguerite (€40/30, one hour), St-Tropez (€65/50, 2½ hours), Monaco (€38/29.50, 45 minutes) and Cannes (€40/30, one hour).
Centre du PatrimoineWalking
(
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; 75 quai des Etats-Unis; adult/child €5/free; h8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, to 3.45pm Fri)
The Centre du Patrimoine runs two-hour thematic walking tours. English-language tours must be booked two days in advance. The tourist office has a full listing.
L’OpenTourBus
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nice.opentour.com; opposite 109 quai des États-Unis; 1-/2-day pass adult €22/25, child €8)
With headphone commentary in several languages, the open-topped bus tours (1½ hours) give you a good overview of Nice. Hop on or off at any one of 14 stops.
7Shopping
Shops abound in Nice, ranging from the touristy boutiques of Vieux Nice to the designer temples to fashion around rue de France and the enormous Nice Étoile ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nicetoile.com; av Jean Médecin) shopping mall. For vintage (fashion and objects) and contemporary art, meander the hip Petit Marais north of Port Lympia. For gourmet gifts to take home, head for the market, where you’ll find olive oil, wine, biscuits, candied fruits and much more.
Cave de la TourWine
(
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; %04 93 80 03 31; www.cavedelatour.com; 3 rue de la Tour; h7am-8pm Tue-Sat, 7am-12.30pm Sun)
Since 1947 locals have been trusting this atmospheric cave (wine seller) to find the best wines from across the Alpes Maritimes and Var. It’s a ramshackle kind of place, with upturned wine barrels and blackboard signs, and a loyal clientele, including market traders and fishmongers getting their early-morning wine fix. Lots of wines are available by the glass.
Moulin à Huile d’Olive AlziariFood
(
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; %04 93 62 94 03; www.alziari.com.fr; 14 rue St-François de Paule; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.15-7pm Mon-Sat)
Superb (but very expensive) hand-pressed olive oil, fresh from the mill on the outskirts of Nice. It comes in several flavours of differing fruitiness. The shop also sells delicious tapenades, jams, honeys and other goodies. From Monday to Friday, you can visit the mill to see the process in action: catch bus 3 to the Terminus stop.
Pâtisserie Henri Auer ConfiserieFood
(
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; %04 93 85 77 98; www.maison-auer.com; 7 rue St-François de Paule; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat)
With its gilded counters and mirrors, this looks more like a 19th-century boutique than a sweet shop, but this is where discerning Niçois have been buying their fruits confits (crystallised fruit) since 1820.
5Eating
Booking is advisable at most restaurants, particularly during the busy summer season. To lunch with locals, grab a pew in the midday sun on one of the many place Garibaldi cafe terraces. There are lots of restaurants on cours Saleya, but quality can be variable, so choose carefully.
La RossettisserieFrench€
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; %04 93 76 18 80; www.larossettisserie.com; 8 rue Mascoïnat; mains €13.50-14.50; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat)
Roast meat is the order of the day here: make your choice from beef, chicken, veal or lamb, and pair it with a choice of mashed or sautéed potatoes and ratatouille or salad. Simple and sumptuous, and the vaulted cellar is a delight.
Chez PipoFrench€
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; %04 93 55 88 82; 13 rue Bavastro; socca €2.70; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sun)
Everyone says the best socca (chickpea-flour pancakes) can be found in the old town, but don’t believe them – this place near Port Lympia has been in the biz since 1923, and for our money, knocks socca-shaped spots off anywhere else in Nice.
Chez René SoccaFrench€
(
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; %04 93 92 05 73; 2 rue Miralhéti; small plates €3-6; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun, to 10.30pm Jul & Aug, closed Nov; 
v)
Don’t expect service with a smile at this chaotic, no-frills corner restaurant – but do expect a slice of socca or a plate of petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), just like grande-mère used to make. Wines are available by the glass at the bar across the street.
La MerendaFrench€
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; www.lamerenda.net; 4 rue Raoul Bosio; mains €14-16; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri)
Simple, solid Niçois cuisine – stockfish, calf tripe à la Niçoise with panisse (chunky, pan-fried sticks of chickpea-flour batter) and the like – by former Michelin-starred chef Dominique Le Stanc draws the crowds to this pocket-sized bistro where diners rub shoulders, literally. The tiny open kitchen stands proud at the back of the room, and the equally small menu is chalked on the board. No phone, no credit cards.
Le Bistrot d’AntoineModern French€€
(
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; %04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)
A quintessential French bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, street-side tables and impeccable service – not to mention the handwritten blackboard, loaded with classic dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked pork, blood sausage and duck breast. If you’ve never eaten classic French food, this is definitely the place to start; and if you have, you’re in for a treat.
Olive et ArtichautProvencal€€
(
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; %04 89 14 97 51; www.oliveartichaut.com; 6 rue Ste-Réparate; 3-course menu €32, mains €16-22; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun)
There’s barely enough room to swing a pan in this tiny street bistro, especially when it’s full of diners (as it often is), but it doesn’t seem to faze young Niçois chef Thomas Hubert and his friendly team. He sources as much produce as possible from close-to-home suppliers (Sisteron lamb, Niçois olives, locally caught fish) and likes to give the old classics his own individual spin. Wise diners reserve.
JanModern French€€€
(
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; %04 97 19 32 23; www.restaurantjan.com; 12 rue Lascaris; 2-/3-course lunch menu €30/35, dinner menu €75; h6.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Fri & Sat)
For the full-blown fine-dining experience, Jan Hendrik’s restaurant is the top table in town. Born in South Africa, Jan’s dishes are laced with Antipodean and New World flavours and crackle with artistic and culinary flair. There’s nothing à la carte – Jan decides his menus on the day. It’s high-end (dress smart) and sought after; reservations essential.
Niçois Specialities
Nice’s eponymous salad (crunchy lettuce, anchovies, olives, green beans and tomatoes in its purest form) has travelled far beyond its original shores. But there is much more to Niçois cuisine than salade niçoise. Here are five local specialities to try:
Stockfish Dried cod soaked in running water for a few days and then simmered with onions, tomatoes, garlic, olives and potatoes.
Socca A pancake made of chickpea flour and olive oil cooked on a griddle with sneezing quantities of black pepper.
Daube A rich beef stew of wine, onions, carrots, tomatoes and herbs; the sauce is often served with gnocchi or ravioli.
Petits farcis Stuffed vegetables (generally onions, courgette, courgette flowers, tomatoes and aubergines).
Pissaladière A pizza-like base topped with onions, garlic, olives and anchovies.
The Best Ice in Town
There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers in Vieux Nice, but maître glacier (master ice-cream maker) Fenocchio (
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; %04 93 80 72 52; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place Rossetti; 1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight Feb-Oct) has been king of the scoops since 1966. The array of flavours is mind-boggling – olive, tomato, fig, beer, lavender and violet are just a few to try. Dither too long over the 70-plus flavours and you’ll never make it to the front of the queue. For a Niçois twist, ask for tourte de blette (a sweet chard tart with raisins, pine kernels and parmesan). The queues at the main branch are long on hot summer days, but they’re generally shorter at the second branch (
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; %04 93 62 88 80; www.fenocchio.fr; 6 rue de la Poissonerie; h9am-midnight Wed-Mon) around the corner.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe terraces on cours Saleya are lovely for an early evening aperitif. Vieux Nice’s bounty of pubs attracts a noisy, boisterous crowd; most bars have a happy hour from 6pm to 8pm.
El MerkadoBar
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; www.el-merkado.com; 12 rue St-François de Paule; h11am-1.30am)
Footsteps from cours Saleya, this hip tapas bar (strapline: ‘In Sangria We Trust’) struts its vintage stuff on the ground floor of a quintessential Niçois townhouse. Lounging on its pavement terrace or a sofa with an after-beach cocktail is the thing to do here.
La Part des AngesWine Bar
(
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; %04 93 62 69 80; www.la-part-des-anges-nice.fr; 17 rue Gubernatis; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
The focus at this classy wine-shop-bar is organic wines – a few are sold by the glass, but the best selection is available by the bottle, served with homemade tapenades and charcuterie platters. The name means the ‘Angel’s Share,’ referring to the alcohol which evaporates as wines age. There are only a few tables, so arrive early or reserve ahead.
La ShoungaCocktail Bar
(
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; %04 92 27 75 93; http://shounga.bar; 12 place Guynemer; h8.30am-12.30am; 
W)
Decadent, all-day desserts, ice-cream sundaes and cocktails (€8.50) are the reason to hit the sea-facing terrace of this vibrant mojito bar.
BaR’OcWine Bar
(
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; %06 43 64 68 05; 10 rue Bavastro; h7pm-12.30am)
Fine wine and even finer tapas – from parma ham to oven-baked figatelli (a type of salami from Corsica) – plus tasting platters of cheese and cold cuts.
Snug & CellarPub
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; %04 93 80 43 22; www.snugandcellar.com; 22 rue Droite; hnoon-12.30am)
A more chilled retreat than many of the pubs in the old town, especially if you can bag one of the prime tables in the cosy cellar. Quizzes, bands and one-off events keep the interest going. Happy hour is from 8pm to 10pm.
Le Petit Marais
Parisians might scoff at the idea, but Le Petit Marais in Nice is nicknamed after the trendy Marais district in Paris for good reason. The Niçois quartier – the area of town wedged between place Garibaldi and Port Lympia – buzzes with happening eating, drinking and boutique shopping addresses, firmly off the tourist radar but in the address book of every trendy local. Stroll the lengths of rue Bonaparte, rue Bavestro, rue Lascaris and surrounding streets to catch the city’s latest hot new opening.
Our favourites: for bistro food and weekend drinks with local trendies, L'Uzine (
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; %04 93 56 42 39; 18 rue François Guisol; mains €14-20; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat); for lunchtime salads, coffee, cakes and Sunday brunch, Déli Bo (
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; %04 93 56 33 04; 5 rue Bonaparte; mains €12-20; h7am-8pm); for fine wine, many organic, wine bar and bistro Vinivore (
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; %04 93 14 68 09; www.vinivore.fr; 10 rue Lascaris; dinner menu €32-25, mains €18-25; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Sat); cocktails on slouchy sofas in an old lighting factory, Comptoir Central Électrique (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 93 14 09 62; www.comptoircentralelectrique.fr; 10 rue Bonaparte; h8.30am-12.30am Mon-Sat).
3Entertainment
Opéra de NiceOpera
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.opera-nice.org; 4-6 rue St-François de Paule)
The vintage 1885 grande dame hosts operas, ballets and orchestral concerts.
Chez Wayne’sLive Music
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.waynes.fr; 15 rue de la Préfecture; h10am-2am)
One of a strip of raucous drinking holes on the edge of the old town, Wayne’s Place is a proper pub, through and through: plenty of beers on tap, a nightly roster of bands and big-screen sports action. Scruffy as it comes, but great fun if that’s what you’re in the mood for.
Le VolumeLive Music
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.source001.com; 6 rue Defly; h11am-9pm Mon, to 12.30am Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 8.30pm-12.30am Sun; W)
This dynamic cafe, cultural centre and live-music venue is the place to tune into the current and emerging music scene. Live music and jam sessions most nights from 9pm.
Cinéma RialtoCinema
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://lerialto.cine.allocine.fr; 4 rue de Rivoli)
Undubbed films, with French subtitles.
8Information
Nice’s main tourist office (Promenade des Anglais;
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 92 70 74 07; www.nicetourisme.com) has recently reopened after renovations. There are also two smaller branches on Promenade du Paillon (Promenade du Paillon;
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 92 707 407; Promenade du Paillon; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) and outside the train station (Gare de Nice;
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 92 70 74 07; av Thiers; h9am-7pm daily Jun-Sep, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat & 10-5pm Sun Oct-May).
8Getting There & Away
Air
Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 20 42 33 33; www.nice.aeroport.fr; W) is France’s second-largest airport and has international flights to Europe, North Africa and the US, with regular and low-cost airlines. The airport has two terminals, linked by a free shuttle bus.
Boat
Nice is the main port for ferries to Corsica. SNCM ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sncm.fr; quai du Commerce) and Corsica Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.corsicaferries.com; quai du Commerce) are the two main companies.
Train
Nice has excellent train connections to pretty much everywhere on the coast, and many towns further afield too.
Monaco €4.60, 35 minutes, hourly.
Marseille €35 to €38, 2½ hours, hourly.
Paris €66 to €140, 5¾ hours, hourly.
8Getting Around
Bus
Buses and trams in Nice are run by Lignes d’Azur (www.lignesdazur.com). Tickets cost just €1.50 (or €10 for a 10-journey pass) and include one connection, including intercity buses within the Alpes-Maritimes département.
Buses are particularly handy to get to Cimiez and the port. Night buses run from around 9pm until 2am.
Bicycle
Vélo Bleu (%04 93 72 06 06; www.velobleu.org) is Nice’s shared-bicycle service. It’s great value and very convenient for getting round town, with 100-plus stations around the city – pick up your bike at one, return it at another.
One-day/week subscriptions costs €1/5, plus usage: free for the first 30 minutes, €1 the next 30, then €2 per hour thereafter. Some stations are equipped with terminals to register directly with a credit card; otherwise you’ll need a mobile phone (beware of roaming charges).
The handy Vélo Bleu app allows you to find your nearest station, gives real-time information about the number of bikes available at each and calculates itineraries.
Car & Motorcycle
Traffic, a confusing one-way system, and pricey parking mean driving in Nice is a bad idea – it’s better to explore the city first, then head back out to the airport and rent your car there instead.
Holiday Bikes (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 93 160 162; http://loca-bike.fr; 23 rue de Belgique; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 5-6.30pm Sun) rents 50cc scooters/125cc motorcycles for €30/55.
Tram
Nice’s sleek tram is great for getting across town, particularly from the train station to Vieux Nice and the old bus station. Trams run from 4.30am to 1.30am.
A second line running east–west from the airport to the port is currently under construction. It’s officially scheduled for completion in 2017, but there’s still a lot of work to do, and construction is causing considerable upheaval on several streets and around the edge of Port Lympia.