SPP E-Book

1Sights & Activities

Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation PondANIMAL SANCTUARY

(Mnarani Aquarium; GOOGLE MAP ; www.mnarani.org; US$5; h9am-6pm)

In 1993 the villagers of Nungwi opened this turtle sanctuary in a large natural tidal pool near the lighthouse and since then these sea creatures have enjoyed a degree of protection from being hunted and eaten. You can see turtles of various species and sizes, and proceeds from entrance fees fund an education project for local children, hopefully demonstrating the benefits of turtle conservation.

Divine DivingDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.scubazanzibar.com; Amaan Bungalows Beach Resort)

Divine Diving, on Nungwi's west beach, is a five-star PADI centre offering small-group dives, Mares equipment and (uniquely) courses in efficient breathing using yoga techniques.

Spanish Dancer Dive CentreDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 417717; www.divinginzanzibar.com; 2/6 dives US$110/295)

Based on Nungwi's west beach, Spanish Dancer Dive Centre is a large five-star PADI outfit with instructors teaching courses in a dedicated classroom, and speaking several languages. Boats include a traditional wooden dhow for nearby sites and a fast speedboat for more-distant sites.

Kiteboarding ZanzibarKITESURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0779 720259; www.kiteboardingzanzibar.com; h3/9hr lessons US$165/495, rental per day US$90)

Kiteboarding Zanzibar is IKO certified and equipped with modern kit. Its Nungwi base is linked to its centre at Pwani Mchangani (where clients are taken if conditions aren't good at Nungwi). If you know what you're doing, and have certification, you can rent gear. For everyone else, lessons are available.

East Africa Diving & Water Sport CentreDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 420588; www.diving-zanzibar.com; 2/6 dives US$100/280)

This is Nungwi's oldest diving outfit, located on the beach near Jambo Brothers Guesthouse. It's five-star PADI accredited, and has boats to carry clients to dive sites, as well as tanks, wetsuits and other kit in various sizes.

Zanzibar WatersportsDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 235030; www.zanzibarwatersports.com; Paradise Beach Bungalows; 2/6 dives US$115/310)

This company is based at Kendwa with a branch at Paradise Beach Bungalows in west Nungwi. Snorkelling, kayaking, fishing, wakeboarding and dhow cruises are also offered, including an all-day 'seafari' (dhow cruise, snorkelling and lunch on a beach).

ZanziYogaYOGA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 310227; www.yogazanzibar.com; 6-day retreat with accommodation s/d US$1295/1970)

Centre yourself with yoga under the skillful guidance of Marisa van Vuuren. On offer are six-day retreats, including morning and evening yoga sessions plus accommodation at Flame Tree Cottages; budget and luxury retreats use other Nungwi hotels.

DIVING OFF ZANZIBAR ISLAND

With an abundance of reefs, islets and atolls, as well as water temperatures around 27°C (although reportedly rising) and clear visibility, Zanzibar Island is not surprisingly a very popular dive destination.

The reefs are home to hard and soft coral, and many species of colourful tropical fish, along with seahorses, barracudas, marlins and turtles.

At popular beach destinations like Nungwi, Kendwa, Matemwe and Paje, there's a host of dive companies to choose from. As a rough guide, introductory 'discover scuba' dives for beginners cost about US$100 each (about US$150 for two dives); a two-day 'scuba diver' course is US$300 to US$400; a four-dive 'open water' course around US$500. If you're already experienced, it costs about US$100 to US$120 for two dives or US$250 to US$350 for six.

Charges vary between companies, but bottom-line price shouldn't be your main decider. Instead, carefully consider the experience of the company and their attitude to training and safety (including medical forms and client-staff ratios), the personality and qualifications of the instructors, and the quality of the gear.

Other items to note:

ADo not touch live coral, and instruct dive boat captains not to drop anchor on live coral.

ABeware of fake 'PADI-registered' dive centres. Check the real ones at www.padi.com.

ADo not dive if you feel ill or dehydrated, eg especially after a night of partying.

AEven if holiday time is limited, don't dive too deep too quickly.

If you suffer a dive-related decompression illness (DCI, commonly known as 'the bends'), it's essential you seek medical help. Reputable dive companies will know the drill. Alternatively contact Zanaid Clinic in Zanzibar Town; the doctor here is experienced in dive illnesses, and will advise next steps (eg X-ray). The doctor can also be reached via the diving emergency number (0777 788500). Once the nature of your illness has been assessed, the doctor may call in other medics or technicians to assist. It may also be necessary for them to send you to the hyperbaric chamber ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sssnetwork.com) in the village of Matemwe on the east coast of Zanzibar Island.

TTours

Nungwi Cycling AdventuresCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0778 677662, 0777 560352; www.zanzibarcyclingadventures.com; per person US$25-40)

Explore the world beyond Nungwi on bike tours to rural villages, ancient ruins, coral caves, traditional blacksmiths, farms and plantations or secret beaches. Trips are led by the mild-mannered and knowledgeable Machano; a Nungwi local and freelance guide, he can also be hired for any other local tours by bike, foot or car.

Cultural Village TourCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; 2hr per person US$15)

At the Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Pond you can arrange village tours that are a great way to see local life beyond the hotel strip. Most fascinating are the dhow-builders; your guide will introduce you, so you can ask questions or simply observe their skills. Note, however, that the dhow-builders don't like being photographed so always ask permission first.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most of Nungwi’s hotels have restaurants open to nonguests, either in the hotel grounds or down on the beach. In the village there are several small shops selling a basic but sufficient range of groceries for picnics and simple self-catering.

West Nungwi

Nungwi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 777708; www.nungwihouse.com; Nungwi village; d US$50)

It's not on the beach, but this local-style guesthouse is just a short walk away in the village centre, and a good budget option. You get simple and clean rooms, all with fans and mosquito nets, in a small garden courtyard, plus a friendly welcome.

Jambo Brothers GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; west Nungwi; d US$50)

A simple budget option, right on the beach. Rooms have mosquito nets, fans (some also have have air-con) and a small veranda looking onto a sandy garden, although where the garden stops and the beach starts is a little unclear.

Safina BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 415856; www.newsafina.com; west Nungwi; s/d from US$30/50)

Safina has simply furnished no-frills bungalows (some with air-con) set around a scruffy garden, just in from the beach.

Nungwi Inn HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 418769; www.nungwiinnhotel.com; west Nungwi; s/d from US$55/80; aW)

At the far southern (quieter) end of the west beach, Nungwi Inn has rooms in spacious bungalows with palm-thatch roofs. All have a small veranda, and most have air-con. Six of the rooms look directly onto the beach; others are set in the sandy garden. There's a small supermarket, a restaurant and a beach bar where entertainment is arranged some nights.

Amaan Bungalows Beach ResortHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 318112; www.amaanbungalows.com; west Nungwi; d US$100-150; aWc)

Large, long-standing, efficient: Amaan (pronounced amaani by locals) has over 100 rooms, ranging from small garden rooms to medium rooms around the pool and villas with air-con and balcony overlooking the sea. There's also a restaurant on a deck above the beach, a sports bar and a more relaxed bar, plus spa, dive centre and tour office.

Flame Tree CottagesHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 479429, 0737 202161; www.flametreecottages.com; west Nungwi; s/d US$130/170; aWsc)

The small and welcoming Flame Tree offers unfussy and thoughtfully furnished rooms in cottages surrounded by beautiful flowering gardens. It's at the quieter end of Nungwi's west beach, and is a perfect spot for families. There's a swimming pool, and evening meals are served on a patio overlooking the beach.

Baraka Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 422910, 0777 415569; http://barakabungalow.atspace.com; west Nungwi; s/d US$45/60)

This friendly place has simple bungalows around a tiny well-kept garden. It's near the beach, but the sea view is obscured by a two-storey hotel at the front. At the time of research, Baraka was building a three-storey block, so expect more rooms and new prices (and possibly a view from the top floor).

Union Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 176923, 0777 128860; http://unionbungalow.atspace.com; west Nungwi; d US$50-70; aW)

With simple bungalows and rooms with glass sliding doors in a two-storey block, this is a no-frills joint but makes up for it with its position right on the beach. Next door is the affiliated and equally no-frills Waves cafe-bar.

Langi-Langi Beach BungalowsHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %024-224 0470; www.langilangizanzibar.com; d from US$100; as)

This hotel has comfortably furnished rooms in a neat multistorey complex overlooking a swimming pool, with a deck on high stilts above the beach. It's surrounded on three sides by other hotels, but the view out to sea is uninterrupted.

Smiles Beach HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 444105; www.smilesbeachhotel.com; west Nungwi; d US$160; aWs)

At the quieter end of Nungwi's west beach, Smiles has well-appointed rooms in colourful double-storey houses with balconies and a spiral staircase, all set in a spacious sandy garden. There's a pool and restaurant, with sunloungers and parasols overlooking the sea.

Double TreeRESORT$$$

(Double Tree Resort by Hilton Hotel; GOOGLE MAP ; %0779 000008; www.doubletree.hilton.com; west Nungwi; d US$220-280; aWsc)

A luxurious hotel complex, with rooms in several two- and three-storey buildings, some with sea views, others overlooking the large swimming pool and manicured gardens, and all with balconies and TV. There's a restaurant, and a bar on a deck overlooking the public beach, plus (should you overindulge in the bar or restaurant) a fitness room.

NUNGWI ETIQUETTE

Because of the large number of tourists in Nungwi, it’s easy to overlook the fact that you’re in a traditional, conservative environment. When walking in the village, be respectful, especially with your dress and your interactions with locals, and ask permission before snapping photos.

East Nungwi

Mabwe Roots BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; east Nungwi; s US$40)

Rustic and relaxed with a reggae vibe, this locally run place has a handful of simple rooms with small bathrooms in a garden set back from the beach behind a couple of larger hotels. It's on Nungwi's quieter eastern side, about 2km from the village centre.

Mnarani Beach CottagesLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 415551, 024-224 0494; www.lighthousezanzibar.com; east Nungwi; d US$80-200; aWsc)S

On Nungwi's quieter eastern side, near the lighthouse, Mnarani is on a low cliff with a lovely waterside terrace with the beach just below. It's relaxed and efficient, with friendly staff and small rooms in ochre-painted cottages on spacious grounds overlooking the sea. Also available are large superior rooms, a honeymoon suite and apartments for families or groups of friends.

Warere Beach HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 234564; www.warere.com; east Nungwi; d US$80-110; aW)S

Small, peaceful and relaxed, the Warere is 2.5km outside town on Nungwi's east beach. Two rows of cottages have an angular style, but the design ensures all have a beautiful sea view (and also provides 'natural air-con'). Lush gardens, sandy pathways and an infinity pool complete the picture. There's a restaurant, and tours or activities can be arranged.

Sazani Beach HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 633723, 0774 271033; www.sazanibeach.com; east Nungwi; d US$130; W)

Sazani is a low-key place with a local ambience and 10 basic cottages on a small hillside leading down to the beach and overlooking the sea, about 2.5km from Nungwi's centre. Facilities are deliberately simple; there's no air-con or swimming pool, and the garden is somewhat overgrown. There's also a bar and restaurant, and very friendly staff.

8Information

There have been occasional robberies on quiet sections of the beach; don't walk here alone or with valuables, particularly at night.

Nearly all hotels, cafes and bars offer wi-fi, although at the budget places this tends to be very slow and patchy.

There's no ATM, but most hotels can help you change US dollars into local currency, and there's a forex desk at Amaan Bungalows Beach Resort.

8Getting There & Away

Buses and dalla-dallas (route 116) run throughout the day between Nungwi and Zanzibar Town. It's tarmac road all the way. The public transport stand is near the roundabout in the town centre; taxis and private tourist minibuses will drop you at your hotel.

TOP BEACHES

Kendwa Popular, wide, swimmable around the clock.

Matemwe Powdery sands, taste of village life.

Pongwe Tranquil atmosphere, lack of crowds.

Paje Kitesurfing mecca, lively buzz.

Jambiani Waters of otherworldly turquoise shades.

Matemwe

Pop 5000

The idyllic beach at Matemwe has some of the finest sand on Zanzibar, and in this sleepy village life still moves at its own pace, despite the hotels and guesthouses nearby. Of all the coastal destinations on Zanzibar Island, this area seems to have the most 'local' atmosphere. For tourists, this tranquil unhurried ambience means Matemwe is definitely a place where it's easy to switch off.

SEAWEED FARMING IN ZANZIBAR

Wherever you go on the coast of Zanzibar Island, you'll often see local people (mainly women and children) tending crops of seaweed. It seems simple: in beach areas between the high and low water lines, small seaweed plants are attached to strings stretched between poles pushed into the sand. Then, once the plants have grown, the seaweed is harvested.

You may think that seaweed farming is a traditional island trade, but it was introduced only in the late 1980s, when commercial companies, in conjunction with Dar es Salaam University, promoted the activity as a means of employment and sustainable resource management.

The project was hugely successful. Seaweed contains a natural gelling agent used in products from toothpaste, perfume and shampoo to yoghurt, milkshakes and medicine. In 2013 an estimated 12,000 tonnes of seaweed was exported to countries such as China, Korea, Vietnam, Denmark, Spain, France and the USA, and was second only to tourism in terms of foreign-exchange earnings.

In recent years, Zanzibar's seaweed farmers have reported a decline in the trade thanks to increasing ocean temperatures, which slows the seaweed's growth, and a drop in prices in other parts of the world where seaweed is farmed.

2Activities

As with many places along Zanzibar's coastline, diving is a popular activity here, but Matemwe has a special card to play: it's within easy reach of Mnemba Island and the surrounding conservation area, which is one of the most popular dive and snorkelling sites in the whole archipelago.

One OceanDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.zanzibaroneocean.com; Matemwe Beach Village; 2/6 dives US$110/305)

One Ocean is an experienced five-star PADI dive outfit with bases in Zanzibar Town and on the east coast, including Matemwe Beach Village guesthouse. On offer are diving courses and trips to Mnemba Island and other local dive sites. Snorkelling trips are also available for US$45 per person.

DadaCOOKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 466304; https://dadazanzibar.wordpress.com; per person around US$25, depending on group size)

Bestir yourself from the sunbed and head out to meet local women and learn how they cook. On the menu could be baobab jam or coconut and cassava leaves. This activity is run by Dada, a local development project, just outside Matemwe village. You can book direct with Dada or via most Matemwe hotels.

DIVING AT MNEMBA

Mnemba Island (also called Mnemba Atoll) is one of the best-known and most popular dive sites in Zanzibar, and on the whole coast of East Africa. Here you can see a wonderful variety of marine life, including tuna, barracuda, moray eels, reef sharks, turtles, dolphins, and shoals of batfish, trigger fish and humpback snappers. During the migration season, it's even possible to spot humpback whales.

While the island itself is privately owned, with access restricted to guests of Mnemba Lodge, the surrounding coral reef can be visited by anyone.

As Mnemba is so popular (it's been dubbed the 'Ngorongoro of Zanzibar'), in some areas the sheer number of boats and divers is causing damage to the reef. Experienced dive companies will be delighted to take you to quieter, less crowded sites.

4Sleeping & Eating

Key’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 411797; www.allykeys.com; s/d US$30/50; W)

This local-style place is near the fish market and the effective centre of Matemwe village. It's an odd combination of simple rooms in a two-storey concrete block and a delightfully relaxed palm-thatch bar-lounge-restaurant on the beach. Meals may need to be ordered in advance, while boat rides, rental bikes and cars (and just about anything else) can be arranged.

oSele’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 931690; www.selesbungalows.wix.com/zanzibar; d US$80-100; hMay-Feb; aW)

This is a great little place, with friendly owners and just seven impeccably maintained rooms. There's a small swimming pool and convivial bar-restaurant, all set in a lush garden just a few steps from the beach. Most rooms are large and with balcony, and there's a couple of smaller (and cheaper) ones tucked away downstairs.

Zanzibar Retreat HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 108379; www.zanzibarretreat.com; d US$140-190; aWs)S

This luxurious place has just 12 rooms in what was once a large private house. The polished hardwood floors and safari chairs give it a lovely old colonial feel, offset by the Zanzibar furniture in the rooms, and the bright and breezy bar-lounge area overlooking the beach. Everything is quiet and relaxing, and the food is excellent.

oZanzibar BandasBUNGALOW$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 434113; www.zanzibarbandas.com; d US$150-300; Ws)S

With a small collection of palm-thatched huts and bungalows in a garden on the beach, this place has a laid-back and welcoming atmosphere. Although simply built, accommodation is spotless and good quality. There's also a small swimming pool and bar-restaurant, and the management are keen musicians so performances or informal jamming sessions are common.

Green & BlueBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 411025; www.greenandblue-zanzibar.com; d US$270-450; aWs)

This gorgeously designed place is nestled in luxuriant green gardens on a rocky bluff at the northern end of the village, almost opposite Mnemba Island. Fourteen independent cottages have bright colour schemes, private verandas and two showers (indoor or outdoor); most also have private plunge pool. The restaurant-bar serves excellent food, matched by spectacular views.

Matemwe Beach VillageGUESTHOUSE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 417250; www.matemwebeach.net; d with half board US$220-300; Wsc)S

This beachfront place has a very friendly and refreshingly low-key ambience. Guests can choose from two types of bungalow: small and simple, or spacious and more comfortable. Most are on the beach, with a few more set back in the garden. There's also a restaurant, a lounge area padded with colourful pillows, a swimming pool and One Ocean dive centre.

Sunshine HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 388662; www.sunshinezanzibar.com; d US$230; Ws)S

Towards the southern end of Matemwe, this immaculate place has 12 rooms with louvre doors, soft furnishings and traditional-style in-room bathrooms. All overlook the garden or across the infinity pool to the beach. The hotel's dive centre is based at Sunshine Marine Lodge, a sister property at the north end of Matemwe village.

Matemwe LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %central reservations in Cape Town +27 21 418 0468; www.asiliaafrica.com/matemwe; d with full board US$720-790; Ws)

Matemwe Lodge, at the northern edge of the village, is a luxurious hotel with a dozen spacious and impeccably decorated bungalows, all with sea views and set in verdant gardens. Nearby are two affiliated accommodation options: Matemwe Retreat (luxury villas) and Matemwe House (ideal for for families or small groups). Diving and all the usual activities can be arranged.

8Getting There & Away

Matemwe village is on the northeast coast of Zanzibar Island. Dalla-dallas (route 118) travel daily to/from Zanzibar Town (Tsh2500). Early in the day the terminus is the fish market in the centre of the village at the northern end of the beach; later in the day the terminus is the main junction where the main tarmac road meets the dirt road that runs parallel to the coast.

Paje

Pop 3500

Thanks to its wonderful beach of white sand and shallow waters, Paje has changed from a sleepy fishing village to a busy resort town with plenty of places to stay and a lively atmosphere. In recent years it has become very popular as a kitesurfing destination, to such an extent that it's sometimes hard to go for a swim.

KITESURFING IN PAJE

Paje is Zanzibar’s main kitesurfing centre. In fact it's one of Africa's best spots, attracting enthusiasts and beginners from all around the world. Reasons for this include the constant and predictable onshore winds, the large flat-water lagoon between the beach and the reef, a shallow and sandy sea bed (ideal for beginners), big waves on the reef (for experts), warm water and the relative lack of seaweed farming. Oh yes, and because it's simply beautiful.

Most kite centres rent equipment from around US$15 per hour or US$50 to US$100 per day, and offer a wide range of courses from around US$100 for a half-day beginner's intro to around US$300 for a full-day's advanced training. There are also freelancing locals on the beach who rent out kit at bargain prices, which is fine if you know what you're doing.

Recommended outfitters include:

Kite Centre ZanzibarKITESURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kitecentrezanzibar.com)

This IKO-accredited outfit has been operating in Paje since 2006, with experienced instructors offering excellent courses catering to all abilities, as well as kite rental and sales. Also available are downwinders and longer trips, plus week-long package deals combining kiting with accommodation in a nearby hotel or the affiliated Bellevue Guesthouse 5km up the coast (free transfers).

Airborne Kite CentreKITESURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0715 548464; www.airbornekitecentre.com)

Friendly and professional outfit offering IKO-accredited courses and private tuition for beginners to would-be instructors. Equipment sales and rental. Full-moon and sundowner trips (followed by a beach party) and downwinders are also available. Guests can stay in the associated Airborne Kite & Surf Village.

You can also try Aquaholics ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 897978; www.aquaholics-zanzibar.com), who actually focus on surfing, but do kite-surfing as well, and Paje by Kite ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pajebykite.net), who have a wide range of courses, plus rentals and sales. If the activity above the water gets too much, you can head for the depths with Buccaneer Diving ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 853403; www.buccaneerdiving.com; 1 dive US$56, with equipment US$77), a PADI five-star centre.

4Sleeping

Paje's hotels cater primarily to budget and midrange travellers. Most of the hotels clustered together on the beach near the main junction are geared to those wanting to be in the centre of the action; as you go north and south from here, the ambience becomes more tranquil.

oDemani LodgeLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0772 263115; www.demanilodge.com; dm/s/d US$20/38/50; Ws)

Demani Lodge is a delightful budget option with neatly constructed cabins and bungalows. There's a seven-bed dorm and double rooms; some have private bathroom, others share a spotless shower block. Friendly management, clean rooms, big garden, hammocks, laundry, small pool and sociable bar make for instant success. The beach is a short walk away along a footpath.

New Teddy's PlaceBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 096306; www.teddys-place.com; dm US$22, s/d banda US$36/42, bungalow US$42/56; W)

Next door to (you guessed it) Original Teddy's Place, there's a choice of seven-bed or four-bed dorms, small bandas (thatched-roof huts) or larger bungalows circled around an open sandy area with a volleyball net. Day and night, most activity occurs in the large bar-restaurant. It's 100m to the beach, or you can relax on hammocks and sunloungers in the garden.

Summer Dream LodgeHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 294809; www.summerdreamlodge.com; dm US$16, d US$55, with shared bathroom US$40; W)

Palm thatch is the word at this backpackers place. It's the main ingredient of a large dorm, several bungalows, and the bar-restaurant with chill zone on stilts so you can see the sunset. The cheap rooms have sand floors, all beds have nets, and it's a two-minute walk to the beach.

Original Teddy's PlaceHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0778670576; www.originalteddys-place.com; dm US$18, d banda US$40; W)

After a few years of service, the original Teddy's is looking a little tired and scruffy, but that means simple accommodation at low prices. There's a dorm, some basic bandas and a friendly reggae vibe in the bar. It's next door to the separate New Teddy's Place.

Jambo Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 529960; www.jambobeachbungalows.com; dm from US$20, d US$50)

Jambo's enviable beachfront location and laid-back atmosphere make up for its rather frayed palm-thatch bungalows. There's a dorm and double rooms with rustic wooden furniture, a mix of sand and concrete floors, fans and mosquito nets, plus a simple restaurant and beach bar, which is often the site of lively parties.

oAirborne Kite & Surf VillageTENTED CAMP$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 687357, 0715 548464; www.airbornekitecentre.com; d from US$100, tented d from US$90; W)

Closely linked to Airborne Kite Centre, this delightful place has rooms in a large house and safari tents (with private bathroom), plus a tree house, all in a large garden under shady trees. There's a very friendly atmosphere, and evening parties and barbecues are frequently arranged to polish off a day's kiting.

Hotel on the RockHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0629 987902; www.hotelontherockzanzibar.com; d small/large bungalow US$85/110; ai)

South of Paje, in a very spacious garden on a small slope overlooking the sea, are a few bungalows; those lower down are bigger. A major draw is the bar-restaurant, splendidly positioned to look along the beach and out to the blue horizon, while the menu tempts with seafood grills and pasta dishes with a Zanzibari twist.

Not to be confused with The Rock, a restaurant north of Paje on the Michamvi Peninsula.

MahaliHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0778 382915; www.mahalizanzibar.com; d US$100-125; ac)

The Mahali is packed tight between other hotels on the central section of beach, but once inside it's spacious, relaxing and very good quality. Rooms are neat and uncluttered with spotless bathrooms, all in small double-storey blocks around the pool and terrace; those upstairs have balcony and sea views (and cost more). Also available are family rooms.

Cristal ResortHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 875515; www.cristalresorts.com; d US$110-130; Wsc)

In a spacious sandy garden just a few steps from the beach, this place has 'delux' rooms in a concrete block, beach bungalows and 'eco' (wood and thatch) bungalows. All rooms are clean and comfortable, but get very warm thanks to sliding glass doors. The restaurant is excellent. Staff are friendly and helpful, although service is little haphazard.

Kilima KidogoGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations +44 7817 124725; www.kilimakidogo.com; d with garden/sea view US$95/100; aWsc)

South of the village, where the beach is quieter (although the sea still busy with kiters), relaxed and friendly Kilima Kidogo has 10 straightforward but colourful rooms in a building with a central courtyard, overlooking the flower-filled garden or the pool with the beach beyond. The bar-restaurant is right on the beach and has good food with vistas to match.

Kitete Beach BungalowsHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0772 361010; www.kitete.com; s/d US$60/90; aWsc)

In a perfect spot on the beach, Kitete has 18 spacious rooms in double-storey bungalows with balconies or verandas giving ocean views, all set around a swimming pool and patio with chairs, parasols and sunloungers. There are also a few triple rooms that are handy for families.

Paje by NightLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 880925; www.pajebynight.net; d bungalow US$80-110, d concept US$120; Ws)

Located in the centre of Paje, at heart of the action, this long-standing and deservedly popular place has well-appointed bungalows in the slightly crowded garden, plus some 'concept rooms' with quirky (and very non-Zanzibari) decor. There’s a lively bar, relaxed lounge, Mondrian-inspired pool and a good restaurant, with meals including Swahili and Italian specialities (thanks to the on-site pizza oven).

Paradise Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 414129, 0785 340516; http://nakama.main.jp/paradisebeachbungalows; d US$80; W)

This long-standing Japanese-run place is hidden among the palm trees in a quiet beachside compound at the northern edge of Paje, slightly removed from the main cluster of hotels. Rooms are in small thatched bungalows, which are a little cramped, but they all have a private veranda overlooking the beach where you'll be spending most of your time anyway.

Dhow InnHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 525828; www.dhowinn.com; d with half board from US$200; aWsc)

With bungalows clustered around three pools, set amid gardens and palms, Dhow Inn is neat and stylish. In the rooms, beige-on-white interiors soothe heat-weary travellers, while other facilities include a bar-restaurant, kite storage and wash down, and a spa. It's a 100m walk to the beach, which may be a disadvantage for some but makes for a more peaceful ambience.

DON'T MISS

SEAWEED CENTER

While in Paje, don't miss a stop at the Seaweed Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 107248; www.seaweedcenter.com; tour US$10), the HQ of a local social enterprise that enables the women of Paje to harvest seaweed and then make a living by transforming it into desirable organic soaps, scrubs and essential oils (also involving cloves, coconut and local honey). Come here to shop or arrange a fascinating tour of the seaweed farms and processing centre. It's in the village centre and signposted off the tar road just north of the main junction.

5Eating & Drinking

Most of Paje's hotels have restaurants open to nonguests. Paje has a lively nightlife, centred on the various hotel beach bars. They cooperate to ensure that on every night one of them puts on a party, usually with music and a small admission cost. Patterns vary with the season, so simply ask around to find out where the night's action is happening.

oMr KahawaCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/mr.kahawa; snacks & lunches Tsh8000-14,000; h8.30am-5pm; Wv)

After a hard morning's kitesurfing, or maybe after a hard night's partying, this is the place for a top-notch espresso or cappuccino, accompanied by a sweet pancake, savoury wrap, panini, juice or salad. It's cool, stylish and in a fantastic position on the beach, so is understandably popular, meaning service can be a little slow at busy times.

Kinazi UpepoINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 087780; www.kinaziupepobeachhotel.com; mains Tsh12,000-25,000; h10am-11pm; W)

In a wooden cabin with great views of the beach and ocean, this local place offers all the favourites – pizza, burgers, curries, seafood grills – plus Thai and sushi specials, in a straightforward and slightly old-fashioned ambience.

8Getting There & Away

Paje is located at the junction of the main road along the southeast coast and the road to/from Zanzibar Town.

Dalla-dallas and buses (Tsh2500) run several times daily between Paje and Zanzibar Town. Those between Zanzibar Town and Jambiani or Bwejuu stop here, too. Paje is also on the bus route between Makunduchi and Michamvi.

Private taxis between Zanzibar Town and Paje cost about US$30, and it's around US$10 in a private shared minibus.

Jambiani

Pop 8000

Jambiani is a long village stretching over several kilometres on a stunning stretch of coastline and one of the best places on the island to gain an insight into local life. The village itself (actually several villages grouped together as Jambiani) is a sunbaked collection of palm-thatch huts and the sea is an ethereal shade of turquoise – even by Zanzibar standards – dotted with fishing boats, while on the beach women tend seaweed farms.

4Sleeping

oMango Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 827617, 0773 498949; www.mango-beachhouse.com; s/d from US$35/50; Wc#)

With only three bedrooms and an open-plan living area like a lounge on the beach, Mango Beach House is a small and sociable place. Rooms are simple but neat with artful decor and colourful fabrics, while the garden has daybeds and driftwood furniture. The attached Kiddo's Cafe is excellent (though meals need advance ordering) and attracts nonguests from nearby hotels.

Jambiani Beach HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0778 064891, 0629 224522; www.jambiani-beach.com; d US$70-90; Wc)

In a great position overlooking the ocean, Jambiani Beach Hotel has rooms in bungalows set back slightly from the beach, while the bar and restaurant under large thatch roofs are just a few steps from the sand and sea. In some of the larger bungalows, extra beds can be added to make them family rooms.

Al Hapa HotelHOTEL$

(%0773 048894, 0772 190901; www.alhapazanzibar.com; s/d US$60/75)

A simple place consisting of five beachside bungalows, a two-storey house and a large beach bar. Rooms have bright yellow walls, firm beds and kanga curtains, and all are equipped with mosquito nets, fans and hot water.

oZanzistar GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 440792; www.zanzi-star.com; d US$70-80, family house US$220; W)

A new addition to Jambiani's hotel scene, Zanzistar is simply delightful. Its small size and attentive management makes it feel homey and exclusive at the same time. Rooms have cool and uncluttered decor, and some have their own small private garden shaded by palms and banana trees, while the cheerful restaurant-bar (with occasional live music) attracts guests from nearby hotels.

oRed Monkey LodgeHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 713366; www.redmonkeylodge.com; d US$95-130; W)S

At the far southern end of Jambiani village, Red Monkey is a small hotel with around 10 spacious rooms – some in bungalows, others in a two-storey building – overlooking the beautiful beach. If you're feeling lazy, there are hammocks dotted about and a shady outdoor bar-restaurant. If you're feeling energetic, bike hire, kitesurfing and other activities can be arranged.

Nur Beach HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nur-zanzibar.com; d US$85; Ws)

Relaxed, unfussy, cool, stylish. The Nur is this and more. Rooms are in two lines of thatched bungalows; they're straightforward and not massive but spotlessly clean, all with small private veranda overlooking the infinity pool just a few steps away from the beach. There's a large open-plan bar and restaurant area, with colourful sofas for lounging during the day.

Blue Oyster HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0779 883554, 0783 045796; www.blueoysterhotel.com; s US$50-125, d US$100-200; pWc)S

Personable and professional, Blue Oyster offers good-value and high-quality accommodation on the beach. Rooms are furnished in local style in two-storey villas; some overlook the garden, others overlook the sea (and tend to cost more). The open-air terrace restaurant serves excellent meals, including Swahili specials like coconut curry and mango kingfish.

Jambiani GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

(www.zanzibar-guesthouse.com; d US$50, house US$150-200)

Blink and you might miss this tiny guesthouse with its sandy front yard and just five simple double rooms. There are two external bathrooms, and one of the rooms has its own private facilities. Rooms can be rented individually or you can have the entire house – ideal for groups (sleeps seven to 10 people).

Garden Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/gardenbeachbungalow; d US$100-120; W)

A collection of thatch-roof bungalows with veranda located right on the beach, with a choice of compact ocean-view rooms or more spacious garden rooms. There is also a restaurant serving Turkish specialities.

Coral RockHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 031955; www.coral-rock.com; r US$100-150; aWsc)

This aptly named hotel sits on a low coral cliff jutting into the sea at the southern end of Jambiani. Spacious bungalows have smart furnishings, and there's a gorgeous swimming pool, while the cliff edge overlooking the beach is dotted with small decks, hammocks and sunloungers. A major plus is the hotel's affinity with the local village and natural surroundings.

Casa del Mar HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 455446; www.casadelmar-zanzibar.com; d US$100-130; sc)

Casa del Mar brings a dash of colour and design to Jambiani with 14 rooms in two double-storey houses set amid tropical gardens just a few short steps from the beach. Hotel management aims to work closely with the local community: most furniture and artworks were made in Jambiani and many of the staff come from the village.

Sea View LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 729393; www.seaviewlodgezanzibar.com; d US$170; aWsc)

Small, neat and stylish, Sea View Lodge has just 10 rooms in bungalows (five facing the beach, five set back in the garden) and a calm professional air. Most rooms are doubles, and there are some larger family rooms. Decor combines Swahili and Italian aspects, as does the menu – so choose octopus in coconut or spaghetti al granchio (spaghetti with crab).

JAMBIANI ECO INITIATIVES

Coastal erosion and declining fish populations in the Jambiani area have prompted cooperation between Jamabeco (Jambiani Marine & Beach Conservation) and Marine Cultures (www.marinecultures.org) to promote conservation, create an artificial reef, and explore new aquaculture projects such as sponge and sea-cucumber farms. With support and sustained education Jambiani will hopefully be able to pioneer more sustainable fishing and tourism practices, which will ultimately benefit the island as a whole.

5Eating

Most of the hotels and lodges have restaurants open to nonguests. Jambiani also has a lively local scene, with simple eating houses offering tasty dishes at very reasonable prices; these places tend to come and go, so the best way to see what's available is to stroll around during the day then make a booking for the evening.

Kim's RestaurantZANZIBARI$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 457733; meals Tsh5000-15,000; h11am-9pm)

Dig your toes into the sandy floor of this palm-thatched local eatery and tuck into simple but tasty local meals like grilled fish and octopus curry. Everything runs in a leisurely manner, so order in advance and with time to spare. Kim's is signposted from the easily located Blue Oyster Hotel.

8Getting There & Away

Dalla-dalla 309 runs several times daily between Zanzibar Town and Jambiani (Tsh2500). Buses between Makunduchi and Michamvi also stop here. Jambiani village sits between the tarmac road and the sea; all public transport uses the tarmac road, from where it’s about 500m to 1km down to the beach.

Kizimkazi

Pop 5000

At the southern tip of Zanzibar Island, Kizimkazi would be just another sleepy fishing village if it weren't for the local dolphins that frolic offshore becoming a major tourist attraction. Most days visitors from all over Zanzibar come here to take a boat ride across the clear blue waters of Menai Bay to see the dolphins.

Arranged via local hotels, prices for dolphin-watching trips start from US$25 per person with reputable operators. Local beach boys and taxi drivers also organise boat trips, but use responsible operators who follow appropriate codes of conduct, both for your safety and the dolphins' well-being.

Kizimkazi's other claim to fame is its old mosque ( GOOGLE MAP ). Although it is thought to be one of the oldest Islamic buildings on the East African coast, the mosque has been extensively restored and appears relatively modern on the outside. However, on the inside are inscriptions (in Kufic and Arabic) dating to 1107 and 1770. The mosque is just north of the main beach area in Kizimkazi Dimbani. If you want to take a look, ask permission and (if you're non-Muslim) get a local to accompany you. As in all mosques, you should take off your shoes and cover up bare shoulders or legs.

WATCHING THE DOLPHINS

Dolphin-watching trips are a great way for local people to earn income from a natural resource, and help prevent dolphin hunting (an activity that used to occur here). But such is Kizimkazi's popularity that it can be very crowded out on the water sometimes, with a large number of boats literally chasing the animals at high speed (something that is not responsible or ethical behaviour). Ramming and blocking is not uncommon, and some boats keep their propellers running, which can injure dolphins.

In addition, many operators encourage guests to jump in and 'swim with the dolphins', which may also injure or cause stress for the dolphins, and (more practically) mainly just scares them away.

If you want to enjoy Kizimkazi's dolphins, be happy with just seeing them, possibly at a distance. Ideally, go early or late in the day, with a reputable captain who will allow you to see the dolphins without disturbing them.

Be wary of tour operators claiming 'eco' credentials; many local boatmen flout any guidelines for responsible activity.

Consider the following points, based on advice from Whale & Dolphin Conservation (http://uk.whales.org/), and ensure your operator agrees to them before booking:

ADo not chase dolphins.

ADo not get too close to dolphins.

AKeep boat engines in neutral wherever possible.

ANever try to swim with or touch dolphins, for your safety and theirs.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kizimkazi consists of two separate settlements: Kizimkazi Mkunguni (also called Kizimkazi Mtendeni), where most of the boat trips depart, and smaller Kizimkazi Dimbani to the north. There's a couple of accommodation options here, with more hotels dotted down the coast to the southeast.

Little David LodgeLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0689 218217; www.littledavid-zanzibar.com; Kizimkazi Mkunguni; d US$40)

This simple place has a few rooms in a small compound between the road and the beach in Kizimkazi Mkunguni. For those arriving by public transport it's the easiest place to reach. Good honest meals are available in the attached Mama Lucia Restaurant (Tsh12,000 to Tsh16,000).

Dolphin Safari LodgeLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 007360; www.dolphin-safari-lodge.com; Kizimkazi Mkunguni; d from US$50; Wc)S

Low-key, peaceful, friendly and well managed, this small lodge overlooks a quiet beach about 1km southeast of Kizimkazi Mkunguni. Rooms are in bungalows or palm-thatch huts with safari-tent-style zipped doors. There's a simple bar-restaurant with beautiful sea views. The owners hire and train local people to work in the hotel, and operate responsible dolphin- and whale-spotting trips.

Promised LandLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0779 909168; www.promisedlandlodge.com; Kizimkazi Mkunguni; s/d US$38/60; Wsc)

Tucked away on the coast, southeast of Kizimkazi Mkunguni, this is a little gem of a place, with a Caribbean vibe and rooms in simple thatched huts. The garden has hammocks but few big trees, so there isn't much shade, but it's no hardship to spend the day lounging under a parasol or in the airy bar-restaurant-lounge overlooking the sea.

KarambaLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 166406; www.karambaresort.com; Kizimkazi Dimbani; d US$75-120; Wsc)

Karamba, on the northern end of Kizimkazi Dimbani, has around 20 rooms of different sizes in whitewashed cottages along a small cliff overlooking the sea. Steps lead down to the beach, and the hotel has a pool. Diving, cycling, kayaking and other activities can be arranged, or you can simply relax and enjoy the ocean view from the bar-restaurant.

oUnguja LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774 477477; www.ungujalodge.com; Kizimkazi Mkunguni; s/d with half board from US$280/500; Wsc)S

Set in a patch of forest, this secluded luxury lodge has 10 villas with high thatched roofs and curved walls reminiscent of seashells. They're impeccably decorated and many have sea views (including from the shower). Add the private beach, infinity pool, dive centre and excellent restaurant, and it's easy to see why this place is regularly booked out.

8Getting There & Away

To reach Kizimkazi from Zanzibar Town take bus or dalla-dalla 326. The fare is Tsh2500.

Alternatively, take Makunduchi bus 310 as far as Kufile junction, then wait for another vehicle or walk to Kizimkazi (about 5km). At the next fork, go right to Kizimkazi Dimbani or left to Kizimkazi Mkunguni.

Pemba

%024 / Pop 450,000

Pemba's terrain is hilly and lushly vegetated, while much of the coast is lined with mangroves and lagoons, interspersed with idyllic beaches and islets. Offshore, coral reefs offer some of East Africa's best diving.

Throughout, Pemba remains largely 'undiscovered', and you'll still have most things to yourself, which is a big part of the island's appeal.

For much of its history, Pemba has been overshadowed by Zanzibar Island, its larger neighbour to the south. Although the islands are separated by only 50km of sea, relatively few tourists cross the channel. Those who do, however, are seldom disappointed.

Pemba

1Top Sights

1Misali IslandB3

1Sights

2Chwaka RuinsC1

3Kidike Flying Fox SanctuaryC3

4Mkame Ndume RuinsC4

5Ngezi Forest ReserveB1

6Pemba Channel Conservation AreaB2

7Ras Kigomasha LighthouseB1

8Ras Mkumbuu RuinsB3

9Vumawimbi BeachB1

4Sleeping

10Fundu LagoonB4

11Gecko Nature LodgeB1

12Manta ResortB1

13Pemba LodgeC5

14Pemba Misali BeachC3

15Pemba ParadiseB1

8Information

Opening Hours

AShops & Businesses 8am to noon or 3pm Monday to Saturday; many shops and businesses close for a few minutes around 1pm so the men can visit the mosque for prayers. In towns and larger villages, some shops open again from 7pm–9pm. Outside Chake Chake there's not much open anywhere on Sundays.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Pemba's main airport is Pemba-Karume Airport (PMA; GOOGLE MAP ; Chake Chake), 6km east of Chake Chake. ZanAir (www.zanair.com), Coastal Aviation (www.coastal.co.tz) and Auric Air (www.auricair.com) offer daily flights to/from Dar es Salaam (US$140) via Zanzibar Island (US$95). Flights to/from Tanga are also possible with Coastal (US$100) and Auric (US$65).

Boat

Pemba's main port is at Mkoani, at the southern end of the island. All ferries to/from Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam dock here. Most reliable are the Sealink roll-on, roll-off car and passenger ferries, operated by Azam Marine.

On Pemba, tickets can be purchased at Azam Marine's office at the port in Mkoani, as well as at various travel agents in Chake Chake and Wete.

Another option is the government-operated Mapinduzi ferry, which goes twice weekly in each direction between Pemba and Zanzibar. The fare is US$25, but the service is slow and unreliable.

Dhows sail between Wete (in the northwest of Pemba) and Tanga and Mombasa, but foreigners are prohibited.

If you come by boat from Zanzibar Island, mainland Tanzania or Kenya, you'll need to go to the immigration office at the port to get your passport and visa checked.

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Renting a bike makes sense on Pemba because several sights are off the main public transport routes, and the roads have relatively light motor traffic. Many hotels on the coast have bikes for rent (around US$10 per day) so you can explore the surrounding area. For longer jaunts, don't forget that Pemba is a hilly place!

Bus & Dalla-Dalla

Buses and dalla-dallas (pick-up truck or minibus) cover the main routes between towns and villages. Over the past few years, many of Pemba's roads have been tarred, and some completely new roads constructed, which has improved comfort if not journey times. Sample routes, fares and durations include Chake Chake to Mkoani (Tsh2000, one to 1½ hours) and Chake Chake to Wete (Tsh2000, 1½ to two hours).

Car & Motorcycle

Renting a self-drive car to get around Pemba is unusual, but may be possible via hotels and tour companies in the main towns. Much easier is to hire a car with driver – also via hotels and tour companies, or ask around at a taxi rank. Expect to pay US$50 to US$70 per day; it's usually easier for both parties if you pay for fuel separately.

All hotels across Pemba have parking.

Motorbikes can be hired via Coral Tours in Chake Chake (advance notice required).

Chake Chake

1Sights

1Pemba MuseumB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Coral ToursC2

4Sleeping

3Hotel ArchipelagoA1

4Pemba Island HotelB1

5Eating

5AhaabnaB1

Transport

6Dalla-dallas to MkoaniC2

7Dalla-dallas to WeshaB1

8Dalla-dallas to Wete & KondeB1

9Transport StandB2

Chake Chake

Pop 30,000

Chake Chake is the capital of Pemba. Often called simply 'Chake', it's an appealingly scruffy place with a busy centre of shops and market stalls. Sights are limited, and the nearest beach is at Makoba (7km to the east), so Chake Chake is mainly used by visitors as a transport hub and starting block for deeper exploration on Pemba.

EXPLORING AROUND CHAKE CHAKE

If you're staying in Chake Chake, there are a number of interesting sights within easy reach by either bicycle or taxi. Coral Tours in Chake can help arrange the logistics.

Mkame Ndume RuinsRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The ruined palace of Mohammed bin Abdul Rahman, who ruled Pemba prior to the arrival of the Portuguese (late 15th to early 16th centuries), is an evocative spot. Rahman had a reputation for cruelty and was known as Mkame Ndume (Milker of Men). Today the ruins' primary feature is a large stone staircase that led from the kilometre-long channel (now dry) connecting this site to the ocean.

The ruins are 10km southeast of Chake Chake, near the village of Pujini. Dalla-dallas from Chake Chake to Pujini (Tsh1000, one hour) are infrequent and the ruins are poorly signposted. A taxi from Chake Chake costs about Tsh30,000 return. Or rent a bike; head south of Chake Chake, past the airport road then turn left (southeast) onto the dirt road by a sign that says 'Skuli Ya Chan Jaani'.

Ras Mkumbuu RuinsRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student US$5/3)

Ras Mkumbuu is the headland at the end of the thin strip of land jutting into the sea northwest of Chake Chake. It's also the name given to the ruins of an ancient settlement, once called Qanbalu, dating from the 8th century, which by the early 10th century had become one of the major cities along the East African coast. The main ruins, consisting of a large mosque, some tombs and houses, date from around the 14th century, and several walls are still standing.

Ras Mkumbuu is about 10km from Chake Chake. Dalla-dallas run as far Wesha but after that transport is erratic, and you may have to walk. Other options are taxi or rented bike, or a boat from Wesha.

1Sights & Activities

ZSTC Clove Oil DistilleryFACTORY

( GOOGLE MAP ; tours Tsh5000; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

Pemba is well known for its clove industry, and this distillery is where the clove stems are turned into essential oil. It's operated by the Zanzibar State Trading Corporation (ZSTC) and also here on occasion are cinnamon leaves, eucalyptus leaves, lemongrass and sweet basil. The tour may be a little lackadaisical, but the process is fascinating. Go first to the office and small shop selling the finished product (yes, enter through the gift shop) and arrange a guide.

The distillery is in the suburb of Machomane, about 1km north of the town centre, east of the main road. You can take a dalla-dalla to the junction then walk, or arrange a visit through a tour company.

Pemba MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; US$3; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Filling an 18th-century Omani fort, which was probably built on the remains of a 16th-century Portuguese garrison, this small museum has well-organised (if a little dusty) displays on island history. You’ll get a lot more out of your visit to the ruins at places like Ras Mkumbuu if you stop at the museum first.

Umoja Children’s ParkAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Tsh500; hweekends & public holidays)

This fairground was established in Pemba’s socialist days, and completely renovated (a gift from China) in recent years. The gleaming big wheels and dodgem cars are an unexpected sight, but this place is understandably popular with the locals. It's open weekends, and on some religious festivals or public holidays. There's a small entry fee when the rides are operating, but at all other times wandering around is free. It's on the edge of town, on the road to Wesha.

Coral ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 437397; tours_travelpemba@yahoo.com; Main Rd; tours for 2 people half-/full-day from US$50/100; h8am-5pm)

Headed up by Nassor Haji, the charming and energetic manager, Coral Tours can fix you up with rental bikes (US$10 per day) or cars (US$50), or supply a vehicle and knowledgeable guide for tours (to nearby ruins, Misali Island, Ngezi Forest Reserve or just about anywhere else on Pemba). Also on sale are ferry and plane tickets.

DON'T MISS

MISALI ISLAND

Surrounded by crystal waters and stunning coral reefs, Misali ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; US$5) offers some of the best diving in East Africa, while snorkelling is spectacular and easily reached from the beach. Around the island, nesting turtles favour beaches on the western side, while on the northeast coast is Baobab Beach, with fine sand and a small ranger centre.

The island is part of the Pemba Channel Conservation Area (PECCA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pembaprojects.org/pembachannel.html; US$5), which covers Pemba’s entire west coast. All divers, snorkellers and beachgoers here must pay the admission fee. There are no permanent settlements, though the island is in active use by local fishers, and camping is not permitted for tourists. Inland from the beaches are caves, believed to be inhabited by the spirits of ancestors.

You can get to Misali by arranging a boat from Wesha, but it's easier, and not much more expensive, to arrange excursions through hotels or travel agencies. Expect to pay about US$50 per person (depending on group size), including lunch and entry fees.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel ArchipelagoHOTEL$$

(formerly Hifadhi Hotel; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 254777; www.hotelarchipelagopemba.com; Wesha Rd; s/d US$50/70; aWs)

With its austere stairwells and utilitarian furniture (including inventory numbers) the Archipelago has the air of a government rest house – which it was – but now it's privately run and the best hotel in town. Rooms are clean and tidy with fridge, TV and tea-/coffee-making facilities, while staff are friendly and efficient.

Pemba Misali BeachRESORT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %central reservations 0777 470278; www.oceangrouphotel.com; Wesha Rd; s/d US$80/120; aiW)S

Out amid the mangroves, 7km from Chake Chake and reached by an impressively long jetty, this resort has functional rooms in a row of bungalows on a small white-sand beach. On a small pier, the restaurant serves international and local food (mains Tsh8000 to Tsh16,000), with a great view over the water towards the eponymous Misali Island in the distance.

Pemba Island HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 490041; pembaisland@gmail.com; Wesha Rd; s/d US$40/60; aW)

Above a row of shops on the main road, at first glance this hotel is unappealing, but once inside the rooms are clean with TV, mosquito nets and hot water. Be sure to abide by the rules painted on the wall by the entrance stairs.

AhaabnaTANZANIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; meals Tsh5000-6000; h6-8pm)

Located on the top floor of a modern concrete building, reached by an anonymous staircase, this no-frills restaurant serves evening meals, usually with just one option on the menu, such as rice with chicken or fish. If you plan to eat here, it's worth checking in advance during the day.

8Information

The main banks in Chake Chake are NMB ( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd) and PBZ ( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd); both have ATMs but these don't accept non-Tanzanian cards, and changing money inside the bank itself is a very slow process.

You can change US dollars into local currency at a large hotel, or ask at large shops selling imported (especially electrical) items.

To get on-line, try Tawazul Internet ( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; per hour Tsh1000; h8am-9pm).

For medical emergencies, the privately run Dira Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 424418; Wete Rd, Machomane; h7am-9pm) is out in the suburb of Machomane.

8Getting There & Away

There's a transport stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) near the old market, but most people go to the main junction near the petrol station and wait there for a dalla-dalla going in the right direction.

Dalla-dallas to Mkoani ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Tsh2000, 1½ hours) leave from near Coral Tours. Dalla-dallas to Wete ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Tsh1500, 1½ hours) and Konde (Tsh2000, two hours) depart from near PBZ bank, while to Wesha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Tsh500, 30 minutes) they go from the top of Wesha Rd.

A taxi between town and the airport costs about US$10. For longer trips, expect to pay around US$40 to Mkoani and US$70 to the hotels on the Kigomasha Peninsula.

Mkoani

Pop 20,000

Although it’s Pemba’s major port, Mkoani has eschewed all attempts at development and remains a small and uneventful town. Many visitors arrive here on the boat from Zanzibar Island.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lala LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 111624; www.lalalodgepemba.com; d US$60; a)

This delightful place has an airy upstairs seating area with views across the bay, and just two rooms available. It's clean, neat and tidy, and right on the beach in the part of town by the fish market, which is either scruffy or authentic depending on your attitude. Kayaks are available for guests (free), and boat trips and diving can be arranged.

It's about 750m southwards from the port. To get here, turn right out of the port gates and follow the dirt road through the huts, keeping the sea on your right.

Zanzibar Ocean PanoramaGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 870401; www.oceanpanorama-zanzibar.com; s/d US$35/70; a)

The welcoming and aptly named Ocean Panorama is on a hill with great views over the sea. Rooms are basic but clean, with a small terrace. The manager, Mohammed (known as Eddie Prince), is a great source of local info and can set you up with tours, boat trips, snorkelling and diving at reasonable prices.

Meals are available (from Tsh10,000) if pre-booked. The guesthouse is in the area of Mkoani called Jondeni; when exiting the port, head north (keep the sea to your left) and walk 750m up the hill.

Emerald Bay HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0789 759698; www.emeraldbay.co.tz; Chokocho village; d with full board US$200; Wsc)S

About 9km south of Mkoani, the charming Emerald has seven comfortable rooms overlooking a neat garden and pool, with a view to the sea beyond. The low-key friendly atmosphere is enhanced by the relatively remote location. It's a short walk to the nearest beach, and boat trips to quieter locations on nearby islands and sandbanks are included in the rate.

Emerald takes great pride in its relationship with the local village, funding several community projects, and in return asks guests to behave and dress conservatively when outside the hotel grounds. There's no public transport, but transfers to/from Mkoani can be arranged.

Fundu LagoonLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %reception 0774 438668, reservations +44 7561 366593; www.fundulagoon.com; d full board US$880-980; hJun-Apr; Ws)

Luxurious and exclusive, Fundu has rooms in large tents under palm-thatch roofs to create a beach lodge with a safari feel. Rooms are on the hillside with a great view, or on the beach with a small private deck. The restaurant overlooks the infinity pool with the ocean beyond, and the jetty bar is the obvious place for sundowners.

8Information

If you come by boat from Zanzibar Island, mainland Tanzania or Kenya, you'll need to go to the immigration office at the port to get your passport and visa checked.

There is a bank in Mkoani, but the ATM doesn't accept non-Tanzanian cards. To change US dollars into local currency, ask discreetly at any shop selling imported goods.

The best health centre in Mkoani, and indeed all Pemba, is Abdalla Mzee Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0778 161246; Chake Chake road, Uweleni).

8Getting There & Away

Buses and dalla-dallas run regularly to Chake Chake (Tsh1500, one hour) from in front of the port. You can also get buses to Wete (Tsh3000, two hours) and Konde (Tsh3500, 2½ hours) via Chake Chake, but these run more occasionally. To save waiting you're usually better off getting something to Chake and changing there for your onward journey.

Kiweni

This remote and tranquil island just off Pemba's southeastern coast is surrounded by mangroves and long stretches of sand. At its southern end is Pemba Lodge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 415551, reservations 024-224 0494; www.pembalodge.com; Kiweni (Shamiani) Island; per person full board US$120; Wc), which provides a truly off-the-beaten-track experience. Overlooking the empty beach and ocean beyond are just five rooms in bungalows raised on wooden decks. There's also a restaurant-lounge where friendly staff serve meals, including seafood brought by local fishers. Activities include kayaking, snorkelling and walks to the village.

At the other end of the island is the village of Kiweni, separated from mainland Pemba by a 2km stretch of water.

The island is occasionally marked as Shamiani on some maps.

Locals reach Kiweni village by boat from a landing point about 2km south of the village of Kengeja, which is about 15km directly south of Chake Chake. Guests at Pemba Lodge are transferred by private boat from a tiny beach, hidden among the mangroves, about 1km south of Kengeja.

Wete

Pop 20,000

The sleepy town of Wete is on the northwest coast of Pemba and is a good base for travellers to explore the north of the island. For locals, it's a port for boats to Kenya.

Hanging in trees just up from the port is a colony of Pemba flying foxes (a species of large bat usually found in forest areas). Despite their proximity to streets and houses, they remain undisturbed.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hill View InnGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 338366; hillviewinn@gmail.com; s/d US$20/35)

This place is a little gem: simple but clean rooms with TV in the lounge, and a nice walled garden with banana trees and a couple of shaded seats. Meals and hot water are available, but both need to be arranged in advance. It's on the edge of the town centre, opposite the grim Soviet-style apartment blocks.

Pemba Crown HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 493667, 0773 336867; www.pembacrown.com; Bomani Ave; s/d from US$30/50; aW)

With balconies overlooking the main street, very near the market, mosque and bus station, you're certainly in the heart of things at the Crown. Rooms are fairly clean if dull, with mosquito nets. There's no restaurant, but a simple breakfast is provided.

Sharook Riviera Grand LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 431012; www.pembaliving.com; s/d US$40/70; aW)

A long-time favourite for travellers in Wete, and now in an improved location, this place has simple rooms with mosquito nets. Mr Sharook the owner is friendly and can set you up with tours to Ngezi Forest Reserve and elsewhere on the island. Meals can be arranged, and there's a view of the bay from the rooftop restaurant.

8Information

Wete has a bank, but the ATM does not accept non-Tanzanian cards. You can change money at Allisha Bureau de Change ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bomani Ave; h8.30am-3.45pm Mon-Sat, 8.45am-12.30pm Sun).

8Getting There & Away

There are two dalla-dalla routes between Wete and Chake Chake (Tsh1500, one to 1½ hours): route 606 uses the old road via Ziwani; route 607 uses the new road via Chwale. There are also frequent dalla-dallas between Wete and Konde (route 601; Tsh1500, one hour).

There's a direct bus from Wete via Chake to Mkoani (Tsh3000) timed to connect with the main ferry to/from Zanzibar Island. Departure times vary, so check in advance at the bus station.

All public transport leaves from the bus and dalla-dalla station ( GOOGLE MAP ) next to the market in the town centre.

PEMBA FLYING FOXES

Commonly known as the flying fox, Pemba’s only endemic mammal is a large and critically endangered bat (Pteropus voeltzkowi), called popo in Swahili.

Flying foxes spend their days in trees rather than caves, and places to most easily see them include a colony near the port in Wete. There are also several colonies in Ngezi Forest Reserve but they’re all far from the trails. By far Pemba’s biggest flying fox roosting site is Kidike Flying Fox Sanctuary ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 472941; adult/student/child US$5/3/1; h9am-6pm), near Kangagani village, 2km east of the new main road between Chake Chake and Wete. The turn-off from the main road is about 10km northeast of Chake.

Tumbe

Pop 4000

The large village of Tumbe lies on a sandy cove on the northern coast fringed by dense mangroves. On the edge of the village is a beach, but forget about parasols and pina coladas here; this is the site of Pemba’s largest fish market, while nearby are the ancient Chwaka Ruins.

There’s no accommodation in Tumbe or nearby Konde. Your nearest options are on the Kigomasha Peninsula or in Wete (from where Tumbe makes a good day-trip destination).

Tumbe Fish MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP )

Down on the beach beyond Tumbe village, the sands are covered in fishing boats and tackle, and lined with a motley collection of huts where fishers gather to pass the day or wait for the tides to turn. There is a newly built market hall, but it's not used, and all the fish is bought and sold on the beach.

Chwaka RuinsRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child US$5/3)

Spread out amid palm trees and cassava fields, Chwaka Ruins consist of two separate sites, the Mazrui Tombs dating back to the 17th century, and the main Haruni Site – the remnants of a town that existed from the 11th to 15th centuries and grew to perhaps 5000 people. It’s named after Harun, son of Mkame Ndume and, according to local tradition, just as cruel as his father.

To reach the ruins, take the main road that runs along the east coast between Konde and Chake Chake, and about 3km south of Tumbe, turn east onto a dirt road. The Mazrui Tombs are about 1km along here, and it's another 1.5km to Haruni. The ruins alone may appeal only to keen historians, but this is also a lovely spot for a walk through the fields on a patch of high ground with views over the bay.

8Getting There & Away

Dalla-dallas travel on two routes between Chake Chake and Konde; those on the main road that runs up the east side of the island go past the junction for Tumbe (Tsh2000, two hours), from where it's a 1km walk through the village to the fish market.

If you're coming from Wete, get a dalla-dalla to Konde, then any vehicle heading west towards Chake, and get off at the Tumbe junction.

Ngezi Forest Reserve

In far northeastern Pemba, dense and wonderfully lush Ngezi Forest Reserve (Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 885777; adult/child US$5/2; h7.30am-3.30pm) is one of the last remaining areas of indigenous forest that once covered much of the island, and as close to rainforest that you'll get anywhere on Zanzibar. Protected by a 1476-hectare reserve, the forest is a true double canopy, complete with vines providing swings for raucous vervet monkeys. The entrance gate and visitor centre is 5km west of Konde, on the main dirt road to the Kigomasha Peninsula.

From the visitor centre, two nature trails tunnel through the forest, and off-trail walks are allowed. All visits must be done with a naturalist guide, some of whom speak English. Most visitors follow the Joshi Trail (Tsh16,000 per person), which takes about an hour and is good for spotting birds, red colobus monkeys and Pemba flying foxes (especially in the early morning and late afternoon). A longer option is the Taufiki Trail (Tsh20,000), which heads north through the forest to reach Vumawimbi Beach (after three to four hours); from here you can retrace your steps, or walk back through the villages bordering the reserve, or arrange a lift in a local pick-up.

Also available are birdwatching and bat-watching walks, plus night walks (all Tsh20,000) to see bushbabies and for keen birdwatchers to spot the endemic Pemba scops owl (Otus pembaensis).

Vehicles pass through Ngezi Forest on the way to the beach hotels on the Kigomasha Peninsula. There's no transit fee unless you stop in the forest. To reach the visitor centre without your own wheels, you could walk from Konde or get an unofficial taxi or boda-boda (motorbike taxi) for around Tsh5000. Some hotels can provide tours or transfers, or you can rent a bike and cycle here.

Kigomasha Peninsula

Spectacular beaches sweep along the shores of the Kigomasha Peninsula and this, along with some of the best diving in the whole Zanzibar Archipelago, attracts adventurous visitors. The remote location, in the far northwest of Pemba Island, is another key draw.

Away from the sea and the sand, several traditional villages collectively known as Makangale are dotted along the peninsula's length. Some hotels arrange cultural visits here, although with a sense of exploration (and a sense of direction) you can easily take a stroll in this area and see a slice of local life.

Stretching along the east side of the Kigomasha Peninsula and north of Ngezi Forest Reserve is the idyllic Vumawimbi Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Not many outsiders come here, as all the hotels are on the west side, but it's sometimes visited if the wind is from the west, as it's more sheltered. It’s an isolated spot, so come with company and a picnic.

Up on the headland (ras) at the far northern tip of the peninsula is Ras Kigomasha Lighthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; US$5). Built by the British in 1900, it is still actively maintained by its keeper. Unlike many lighthouses on Zanzibar it's built of iron, rather than stone. Scale the tiny staircase (95 steps) for wonderful views out to sea and back across the island.

2Activities

Spectacular dive sites include the Njao Gap, the Swiss Reef sea mountains and the sponge-covered Edge, which plunges into the Pemba Channel. As well as the spectacular coral and small marine life, dolphins, manta rays and whales are also regular visitors.

Swahili DiversDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; https://swahiligecko.com; 2 dives US$170)

Located at Gecko Nature Lodge and run by the same friendly team, this five-star PADI Dive Centre offers dives for all levels at various sites off the Kigomasha Peninsula. Check the website for combined dive and accommodation deals.

4Sleeping & Eating

Verani Beach LodgeCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; cabins per person US$30)

This very basic, locally run place has a couple of simple cabins on the beach. The friendly staff can cook meals with enough advance notice, but most guests here come with their own stoves and supplies. There's no way to book in advance, so turn up and try your luck.

Pemba ParadiseHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777 800773; www.pembaparadise.com; d US$65-80)

This low-key hotel has 16 rooms, white-painted with minimal decor, in a row of double-storey buildings set back slightly from the beach; the upstairs rooms have a better view. The bar-restaurant is set further back, behind the rooms, although there are seats and parasols on the beach so you can still enjoy a sundowner.

You can order a couple of dishes or choose the set menu in the restaurant (three-course dinner US$15). Activities include walking tours to nearby villages or there are bikes for rent, and transfers to Ngezi Forest Reserve cost US$10. Diving can be arranged at other hotels nearby.

Gecko Nature LodgeLODGE$$$

(formerly Kervan Saray; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 176737; https://swahiligecko.com; dm/s/d with full board US$80/180/220; Wsc)

This lodge is a wonderfully relaxing place, under new management since 2016, with double rooms in high-roof bungalows, plus a six-bunk dorm. The restaurant serves a set menu (nonguests US$15) and the beach deck is perfect for a beer at sunset. The same team runs Swahili Divers; other activities include fishing, snorkelling and kayaking, and bike rental is available.

Manta ResortRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0776 718852; www.themantaresort.com; d with full board US$320-570; aiWs)

Superbly situated on the beach at the northern end of the Kigomasha Peninsula, this relaxed and well-appointed resort sits on a small escarpment with perfect ocean views. Accommodation is in spacious cottages, on the seafront or in the garden, all with uncluttered decor and private terrace. For total privacy – at least from humans – try the glass-walled offshore underwater room (US$1500).

8Getting There & Away

Most of the hotels on the Kigomasha Peninsula arrange transfers for guests, usually from the airport at Chake Chake, but collection from Wete or Konde can also be arranged.

If you're on public transport, from Wete there are frequent dalla-dallas to Konde (a surprisingly lively junction village with a couple of shops and cafes), from where you can usually find local dalla-dallas heading up the peninsula as far as the village of Makangale, although you may need to wait several hours; if you're in a rush, you can use a boda-boda (motorbike taxi).

DIVING OFF ZANZIBAR ISLAND

West Nungwi

NUNGWI ETIQUETTE

East Nungwi

TOP BEACHES

Kendwa

Tumbatu

Matemwe

SEAWEED FARMING IN ZANZIBAR

DIVING AT MNEMBA

Kiwengwa

Pongwe

WORTH A TRIP

JOZANI-CHWAKA NATIONAL PARK

Michamvi Peninsula

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

JENGA

Bwejuu

Paje

KITESURFING IN PAJE

DON'T MISS

SEAWEED CENTER

Jambiani

JAMBIANI ECO INITIATIVES

Makunduchi

MWAKA KOGWA

Kizimkazi

WATCHING THE DOLPHINS

Fumba & Menai Bay

WORTH A TRIP

MENAI BAY

Pemba

Chake Chake

EXPLORING AROUND CHAKE CHAKE

DON'T MISS

MISALI ISLAND

Mkoani

Kiweni

Wete

PEMBA FLYING FOXES

Tumbe

Ngezi Forest Reserve

Kigomasha Peninsula