Artisan Whole Wheat–Walnut Loaf
Here are just enough appetizer recipes to take the edge off the appetite. Just enough nibbles for sitting on the deck with a bottle of wine and a few good friends or for a quiet night in front of the TV for two. I’ve also included some delicious side dish recipes for those nights when you are entertaining larger groups so you can use your toaster oven to supplement the entrée baking in your big oven.
I have also included drink notes for many of the appetizers. Almost every appetizer in this book would be enhanced by a good bottle of sparkling wine (the domestic equivalent of Champagne, which technically comes only from the Champagne region of France). But then, in my opinion, almost any experience is enhanced by a good bottle of sparkling wine. Salty “bites” almost always pair well with sparkling wines, as anyone who’s ever consumed a good bottle with a bowl of potato chips knows.
I have a few domestic favorites, but you could just as easily draw upon the wonderful repertoire of imported French Champagne, cava (Spanish sparkling wine), or prosecco (a delicious Italian sparkler). You could serve the Southwestern Scones, for instance, with a sparkling wine from Gruet Winery, located (who would believe it?) near Albuquerque, New Mexico. Gruet’s vineyards, at an elevation of four thousand feet, are some of the highest in North America, and their prices are more than reasonable. Or you could serve the Artisan Whole Wheat–Walnut Loaf with a lively apple-scented glass of Roederer Estate Anderson Valley brut from Mendocino County. Or try a prosecco, the Italian equivalent of Champagne, produced in northern Italy, with the Olive Focaccia.
Several of the recipes can be frozen to keep quick snacks or treats on hand to bake for guests. For instance, I keep a roll of Cheese Cracker dough and several rounds of focaccia in the freezer waiting for just the appropriate moment.
These tasty tidbits are great all by themselves or served with roasted nuts and possibly some olives. Store-bought crackers rarely include such interesting ingredients as fresh, high-quality cheese and nuts in their lineup of ingredients, making these a unique treat.
SERVES 2 TO 4
½ pound very sharp cheddar, smoked cheddar, or blue cheese, grated
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat pastry flour, freshly milled if possible
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons walnut, pecan, or vegetable oil
⅓ cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans
¾ tablespoon water
Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until thoroughly mixed and the dough has an even, crumbly texture.
Remove the dough from the processor and quickly knead into a large, smooth ball.
Roll the dough into a long roll or log about 3 inches in diameter. Spray a piece of plastic wrap with cooking spray and wrap the log in it. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the toaster oven to 350°F.
Slice ¼-inch slices off the roll and place them on your toaster oven baking tray. (If your dough is too crumbly, you can break off walnut-size pieces of dough and flatten them into crackers between the palms of your hands.)
Bake the crackers for about 15 minutes, until they are golden brown. Allow to cool slightly on the tray, transfer to a plate, and serve.
(As with cookie dough, you can bake a few of these crackers, then freeze the rest of the slices on baking sheets. When they are frozen solid, place them in a plastic bag in the freezer and pull them out to bake as needed.)
TO DRINK: Pair these with any good sparkling wine. Yum! Or a nice, flavorful beer would be good, too.
Who would imagine that you could bake a free-form artisan loaf of bread in a toaster oven? You can. Serve slices of this loaf with thick slices of Vella Dry Jack cheese or slather it with gobs of Savory Cheesecake as a spread. * Be sure your oven is not only large enough to accommodate the bread pan of your choice, but also has an extra inch of head space for the bread to rise.
MAKES 1 LOAF
2 cups whole wheat flour, freshly milled if possible
1 cup unbleached bread flour
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1¼ cups warm water
1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the whole wheat flour, bread flour, yeast, and salt.
With the machine running, add the water through the feed tube and let the machine run until the water is just mixed in. The dough should be runny, almost batter-like.
Knead in the walnuts for a couple of minutes, using a pastry scraper to help you manage the dough and keep it tidy.
Generously brush the inside of a large bowl with oil and place the dough in the bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel and allow the dough to rise in a warm place until it has doubled in size, about 2 hours.
For easy clean-up, place a piece of aluminum foil over your toaster oven baking tray and spray it with cooking oil. (Check your manufacturer’s instructions for any cautions against the use of aluminum foil in your toaster oven.)
Punch the dough down and form it into an oval shape and transfer it to the baking tray.
Spray a piece of plastic wrap with cooking oil and gently place it over the dough. Let the dough rise for another 20 to 30 minutes, until about it rises by about half its size.
About 5 minutes before the bread has finished rising, preheat the toaster oven to 425°F.
Remove the plastic wrap from the loaf and, using a serrated knife, very gently make a slash down the middle of the loaf.
Place the loaf in the toaster oven and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to 350°F and continue to bake for about 20 to 25 minutes more, until the loaf is browned and sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom.
Allow the loaf to cool in the pan for at least 30 minutes (if you can stand it) before slicing. You can wrap leftovers in plastic wrap and store in the freezer.
The less you handle this dough, the lighter your scones will be. Do each step with the idea that you only want to mix the ingredients, not knead them. The dried fruits make them even more festive and interesting.
SERVES 6
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
⅓ cup sugar
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter or shortening, cut into pieces
¾ cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons currants
½ cup chopped dried strawberries
1 tablespoon chopped candied lemon peel
Preheat the toaster oven to 375°F.
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, salt, baking soda, and sugar. Pulse to combine.
Add the cold butter. Turn the machine on and let it run until the butter is just blended in and the dough is the consistency of coarse cornmeal.
Turn the machine off and add the buttermilk, currants, strawberries, and lemon peel. Pulse just long enough to blend the ingredients.
Remove the dough from the processor and knead just a few turns to bring the dough together.
On a floured work surface, roll the dough out until it is about 1 inch thick. Cut 10 to 12 small scones using a biscuit or cookie cutter.
Line the toaster oven baking tray with parchment paper and place the scones on the tray. Bake them for 8 to 10 minutes, until they are golden brown.
Remove the scones from the oven and serve hot. If you have any leftover, freeze them in a plastic bag and reheat for later use.
In the United States, saganaki usually refers to the flaming cheese dish that is served tableside at Greek restaurants. Grilled or sautéed in the kitchen, the dish is then brought to the table, doused with brandy, and then flamed as everyone then shouts, “Opa!” * In Greece, however, saganaki is a common meze, or appetizer, usually served without all the fanfare. It is fried and brought to the table, almost like a grilled cheese sandwich without the bread. I use the Staube cast-iron pan to give the cheese a nice crust—the 7½-inch Staub roasting pan will accommodate about 6 slices of cheese.
SERVES 2
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ pound Graviera, kasseri, or feta cheese, cut into ½-inch-thick slices
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
Pinch of sweet paprika
Olives, for serving
Spread the flour on a plate. Run each slice of cheese under the tap to moisten it, then dredge in the flour to lightly coat.
Preheat the toaster oven to broil. Heat the butter or olive oil in a small cast-iron pan by placing it in the toaster oven as it preheats. When the oven reaches the broiling temperature, carefully pull out the oven rack and add the cheese slices to the pan.
Broil the cheese slices for about 4 to 5 minutes on one side, until golden, then turn them over and broil for another 4 to 5 minutes. The cheese should be golden brown but not melted.
Drain briefly on paper towels, sprinkle with a bit of paprika, then serve with olives on the side. (One usually uses a fork to eat it.)
TO DRINK: A very cold retsina (Ritinitis, an artisan retsina from Greece, is my favorite) or a chilled New Zealand or Lake County sauvignon blanc.
While sweet cheesecakes make delicious desserts, savory cheesecakes make excellent appetizers, first courses, or even lunches when eaten hot or cold with a small green salad. They are rich, but well worth the calories now and again. Try spreading this cheesecake on slices of the Artisan Whole Wheat–Walnut Loaf for a delicious appetizer.
SERVES 4 TO 6 AS AN APPETIZER, 1 OR 2 AS A LUNCH
Crust
4 (3-inch) whole-grain or water crackers
1 tablespoon butter
½ cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
¼ cup walnuts
Filling
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese
1 (11-ounce) package goat cheese
3 eggs
2 ounces feta cheese
½ cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
1 cup sour cream
6 cloves garlic, pressed
Leaves from 2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
To make the crust, combine the crackers, butter, cheddar cheese, and walnuts in the bowl of a food processor or blender. Process until they form coarse crumbs.
Divide the crumbs evenly among 4 individual-size springform pans and press them down using a spoon or smooth, round meat pounder.
Preheat the toaster oven to 300°F.
To make the filling, cream together the cream cheese, goat cheese, eggs, feta, cheddar cheese, sour cream, garlic, and thyme with a whisk or a handheld electric mixer until the mixture is light and fluffy.
Divide the mixture among the 4 pans, lightly tapping each pan on the countertop to even out the mixture.
Bake the cheesecakes for 10 minutes, until just golden at the edges. Eat hot out of the oven, or refrigerate for at least 5 hours or overnight before serving.
TO DRINK: Choose from the repertoire of easily available domestic sparkling wines: Roederer Estate, Gloria Ferrar, Domaine Chandon, or Gruet.
Using the Basic Dough recipe from the Lunch chapter, you can make a simple olive focaccia to cut up and serve unembellished, or perhaps with a good cheese and some nuts, as an appetizer. It’s a little like pizza without the toppings. Come to think of it, you could add some toppings and make a terrific pizza.
MAKES 4 (8-INCH) ROUNDS
2 teaspoons salt
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) yeast
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 cups all-purpose flour
1¼ cups warm water
3 tablespoons olive oil
⅓ cup chopped, pitted kalamata olives
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary needles
Coarse salt, for sprinkling
Mix the salt, yeast, and flours in the bowl of a food processor.
Turn the machine on and slowly add the water and oil through the feed tube. Continue running the machine until the dough forms a ball in the food processor.
Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead in the olives. Season with pepper to taste.
Generously brush the inside of a large bowl with oil and place the dough in the bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel and allow the dough to rise in a warm place until it has doubled in size, about 1½ hours.
Punch the dough down and then divide it into 4 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a disk, then roll each disk out into an 8-inch round. Set 1 aside for the focaccia and place the other 3 in a freezer bag with wax paper between each round and freeze for future use.
Preheat the toaster oven to 400°F.
Lightly brush the toaster oven baking tray with oil. Take the reserved round, stretch it into a rectangle, and place it on the baking tray.
Just before placing the dough in the oven, press it with your fingers to dimple the surface.
Brush the surface of the dough lightly with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with the rosemary.
Bake the focaccia for about 10 minutes, until it is golden brown.
Remove the focaccia from the oven and sprinkle lightly with coarse salt. Cut into 6 or 8 squares and serve hot.
TO DRINK: Prosecco, Champagne, or domestic sparkling wine such as Roederer Estate from Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley or Gloria Ferrer from Sonoma County’s Carneros District.
The smell of these simple braised scallions while they are cooking is terrific. Serve them as a side dish with Grilled Steak with Cracked Peppercorns, or serve them cold in a soup or salad.
SERVES 2
10 scallions
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 tablespoon chicken broth
Freshly ground coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
Preheat the toaster oven to 425°F.
Trim the scallions, cutting away the bottoms and all but 1 inch of the green tops. Combine the olive oil and chicken broth in a shallow bowl and toss the scallions in the mixture to coat. Season the scallions with a grind of salt and pepper.
Place the scallions in an oval or round gratin dish and bake for about 10 minutes, until the tips are slightly blackened.
Top with the crème fraîche and serve hot.
One of my favorite comfort foods is creamed spinach. As a child, I had it for a special treat on birthdays or trips to San Francisco, where it was served as a side with the world’s best fried chicken at Townsend’s on Geary.
SERVES 2
1 (12-ounce) bag fresh spinach
½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
Coarse salt
Heat a wok or frying pan over medium-high heat and add the spinach. Slightly wilt the spinach for 1 minute so you can fit it in the food processor.
Preheat the toaster oven to 350°F.
Transfer the spinach to a food processor or blender and add the crème fraîche. Purée. Add the ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, a sprinkle of nutmeg, and salt to taste and pulse a few times to combine.
Mound the spinach mixture in an oval or round 7-inch cast-iron gratin pan and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese.
Bake for about 15 minutes, until the purée is steaming hot. Serve immediately.
Asparagus can be quickly and easily roasted in the toaster oven while you are preparing the rest of your meal. The cooking time may vary according to the thickness and tenderness of the asparagus stalks. This makes a good accompaniment to almost any grilled meat or fish. Add a dollop of homemade aioli for a special touch.
SERVES 2
10 ounces fresh asparagus, ends trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Coarse salt
Preheat the toaster oven to 375°F.
Toss the asparagus with the olive oil and vinegar in an oval baking dish and sprinkle with coarse salt.
Bake for about 20 minutes, until the asparagus spears are tender.
Serve hot as a side dish, or cold in a salad.
This easy dish can be served as a side for lunch or dinner, or as a meal in itself for breakfast. Allow yourself enough time, as the bread needs to sit for a few hours to become fully saturated with the milk and eggs. This recipe would make an excellent accompaniment to the Grilled Steak with Cracked Peppercorns, or even served with nothing but a green salad.
SERVES 2
3 slices whole wheat or sourdough bread
½ cup grated cheddar, Gruyère, or smoked Gouda cheese
¾ cup milk
Pinch of cayenne pepper
3 eggs
Preheat the toaster oven to 350°F. Butter a shallow gratin dish or round roasting pan.
Cut the slices of bread in half diagonally. Arrange them in the prepared pan. Sprinkle the bread slices with the cheese.
In a bowl with a whisk or in a blender, mix the milk, cayenne pepper, and the eggs thoroughly, then pour the mixture over the bread.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight to allow the bread to absorb the liquid.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until the bread pudding is golden and puffy. Allow to cool slightly and spoon from the dish to serve.
These scones are good for holiday entertaining, as well as for noshing while watching a good movie. The cornmeal, cumin, coriander, and fresh peppers add a Southwestern flair to a classic English treat. They can be enjoyed plain, or serve with garlic or jalapeño jelly.
SERVES 6
1⅔ cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into pieces
¾ cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped red bell pepper
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped jalapeño pepper
Preheat the toaster oven to 400°F.
In the bowl of a food processor or in a blender, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, coriander, and cumin. Pulse to blend.
Add the cold butter. Turn on the machine and let run until the butter is just blended in and the dough is the consistency of coarse cornmeal.
Turn the machine off and add the buttermilk and the peppers, then just pulse long enough to blend the ingredients.
Remove the dough from the processor and knead, using just a few turns to bring dough together.
Dust a cutting board with flour and roll the dough out until it is about ½ inch thick. Cut the scones out with a small biscuit or cookie cutter.
Line a toaster oven baking tray with parchment paper. Place the scones on the tray and bake for about 6 to 8 minutes, until they are golden brown.
Remove the scones from oven and serve warm.
Freeze any scones you don’t eat and reheat them in your toaster oven for a quick treat. These can also be frozen before baking, then you can pull them out of the bag and throw them in the oven for scones fresh out of the oven.
Not much is more comforting than a simple side of scalloped potatoes. Whether you prepare them the rich French way with cream or crème fraîche or you use broth instead, they are delicious. I’ve chosen to make the potatoes with broth instead of the traditional cream because, in my estimation, the dish tastes just as good at half the calories.
SERVES 2
2 tablespoons butter
2 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced in ⅛-inch slices
1 cup grated Gruyère or smoked cheddar cheese
1 cup bouillon or chicken or vegetable broth
Preheat the toaster oven to 375°F. Butter your favorite baking dish (I use a 7½-inch earthenware au gratin pan or a 7-inch round cast-iron roasting pan) with 1 tablespoon of the butter.
Arrange half of the potatoes in one layer on the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle ½ cup of the grated cheese over the potatoes and then arrange the rest of the potato slices on top. Add enough broth to just cover the potatoes. Dot with the remaining tablespoon of butter.
Bake for about 45 minutes, until the stock has been completely absorbed and the potatoes are tender when tested with a knife.
Sprinkle the remaining ½ cup cheese over the potatoes and continue baking until the cheese has turned golden, about 10 minutes.
Cool for a few minutes before serving.
This sweet potato side is great as an accompaniment to pork, roasted chicken, or a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. Top the dish with miniature marshmallows or not, as you deem fit.
SERVES 2
2 medium sweet potatoes (about 3 cups mashed pulp)
¼ cup currants
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
½ cup drained pineapple cubes, coarsely chopped
½ cup coarsely chopped pecans
1 cup miniature marshmallows (optional)
Preheat the toaster oven to 375°F.
Bake the sweet potatoes in their jackets until tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Butter a 7-inch round cast-iron roasting pan or a 7½-inch ceramic dish.
Allow the potatoes to cool slightly, then peel them. Place the potatoes in a bowl and mash the pulp with a potato masher. (I like to leave some texture, but you may prefer your sweet potatoes to be smooth.)
Fold in the currants, butter, pumpkin pie spice, pineapple, and pecans. Place the mixture in the prepared pan.
Bake the casserole for about 20 minutes, until the top is beginning to brown, then cover with marshmallows if using, and bake until the marshmallows are golden, about 10 minutes more. Serve warm.