The Big Book of Sides: More than 450 Recipes for the Best Vegetables, Grains, Salads, Breads, Sauces, and More

Serve with lamb and beef stews, roast lamb or lamb chops; poultry stew, or seafood stews.

Cooking Time: 30 minutes, plus 5 minutes cooling

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

In this Iranian dish, rice is parboiled, then finished with butter in a unique method that creates crusty golden bits. Once you learn this technique, you will find yourself craving it every time you make rice. It’s that good.

2 cups basmati or other long-grain rice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon kosher salt

⅛ teaspoon crumbled saffron threads (optional)

1. Bring a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is partially cooked (it should have a chalky center when you bite into a grain), about 10 minutes. Drain it in a wire sieve.

2. Rinse and dry the saucepan. Add the butter to the saucepan and melt it over medium heat. Add the rice to the saucepan. In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons water with the salt and the saffron, if using. Gently stir the water mixture into the rice, taking care not to disturb the rice touching the bottom of the saucepan.

3. Dampen a clean kitchen towel (with a thin weave, not terry cloth) under cold water and wring it out. Place the towel over the top of the saucepan and cover it with the lid, bringing the towel edges up to keep them away from the burner’s heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes.

4. Increase the heat to medium and cook, covered, until the rice is tender and a light golden crust has formed on the bottom (use a fork to check), about 5 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up the crust, mix it with the rice, and transfer everything to a bowl. Serve immediately.

CLASSIC SPANISH RICE

Serve with Mexican food, chili, pork chops, sausages, barbecued meats and poultry, or sautéed shrimp.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Here is one of the most popular of all rice side dishes, gently flavored with tomato and spices. Don’t make the mistake of adding more tomato paste, because too much will keep the rice from cooking. If you wish, stir in a couple of tablespoons of chopped fresh cilantro before serving.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

¼ cup hot water

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1¾ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup long-grain rice

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Meanwhile, in a 2-cup liquid measure, whisk the hot water and tomato paste together to dissolve the paste. Add the broth and set aside.

3. Add the rice to the saucepan and stir well. Stir in the chili powder and salt. Add the broth mixture and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and tightly cover the saucepan. Cook at a low simmer, without stirring, until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 20 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes. (The rice will stay hot in the pot for up to 20 minutes.)

4. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve hot.

Spanish Rice with Peas: Remove the cooked rice in the saucepan from the heat. Add ½ cup thawed frozen petit peas to the rice, but do not stir. Cover the saucepan and let it stand for 5 minutes to heat the peas. Fluff the rice, stirring in the peas, and serve.

Spanish Brown Rice: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Make the rice mixture in a medium ovenproof saucepan. Cover tightly and bake until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 45 minutes.

ARROZ CON GANDULES

Serve with Latino dishes, especially pork (roast, chops, sausages, or spareribs); sautéed chicken, fish fillets, or sautéed shrimp.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

Rice with pigeon peas (gandules) is Puerto Rican comfort food of the highest order. With the addition of more ham, it can be substantial enough for a main course, but I prefer serving it as a side dish for roast pork, especially the garlic-infused Puerto Rican lechón. Try to make it with slightly sticky medium-grain rice. The not-so-secret ingredient of arroz con gandules is the ubiquitous Caribbean seasoning mixture sazón, which gives the rice a yellow color. You’ll find it, and medium-grain rice and pigeon peas, in the Latino aisle of the supermarket.

½ cup chopped yellow onion

½ cup chopped green bell pepper

⅓ cup (¼-inch) diced prosciutto or smoked ham or 1 slice bacon, coarsely chopped

1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1½ cups medium-grain rice

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1¼ cups boiling water

1¾ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 package (1¼ teaspoons) Latino-style seasoning with culantro and annatto, such as Sazón (see Note)

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

One 15-ounce can gandules (pigeon peas), or about 1 cup thawed frozen green pigeon peas or green peas

1. Using a large, heavy knife, chop the onion, bell pepper, prosciutto, and garlic together on a chopping board to blend the flavors and mince the ingredients more finely. (Do not use a food processor; it tends to pulverize the ingredients and release too many juices.) This mixture is called sofrito.

2. Heat the oil in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the sofrito and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir well.

3. Dissolve the tomato paste in the boiling water. Add it to the saucepan along with the broth, seasoning, cumin, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and tightly cover the saucepan. Cook at a low simmer, without stirring, until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 20 minutes.

4. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Sprinkle the cilantro into the saucepan and add the gandules, but do not stir them in. Let the saucepan stand, with the lid ajar, for 5 minutes. This step will help a golden crust (pegao) form on the bottom of the saucepan.

5. Transfer the rice mixture to a serving bowl, fluffing the rice and stirring in the gandules as you do so, being sure to scrape up the crust from the bottom of the saucepan. Serve hot.

Note: Sazón is the name of the seasoning mixture as well as a branded version of the seasoning. If you wish, substitute ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon onion powder, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and a pinch of crumbled saffron. Culantro, an ingredient in many commercial sazón blends, is a broad-leaf variety of cilantro used in Caribbean cooking. It is not available dried, but the fresh cilantro in the recipe is sufficient for flavoring.

Fried Rice

I usually make fried rice according to what happens to be in the refrigerator at the time. On the other hand, it is so good that I sometimes think ahead and buy ingredients to create a specific recipe, as the fried rice principle can be applied to other flavor combinations outside of the Chinese tradition.

• Fried rice must be made with cold rice, preferably rice that has chilled in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. It will not work with hot-from-the-pot rice. Try it and you will have a sticky mess. Get in the habit of making extra white rice so you’ll have leftovers ready to cook for another meal.

• To prepare the cold rice for frying, just break up any lumps with your fingertips.

CHINESE FRIED RICE WITH SHIITAKES, SNAP PEAS, AND EGGS

Serve with Chinese-seasoned meats, poultry, or seafood.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Cooking Time: 6 minutes

Here is my basic formula for Chinese-style fried rice with soy sauce and Asian vegetables. The vegetables should be crisp-tender, so add them to the skillet according to their texture, and give the harder ingredients a head start. Prosciutto stands in for Chinese sausage or ham, but it is totally optional. Note that the soy sauce and oyster sauce, while very tasty, will give the fried rice a brown color—I sometimes leave them out and just serve soy sauce on the side. This fried rice is a huge hit served with marinated grilled chicken or flank steak.

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 carrot, cut into thin strips

¼ cup (¼-inch) diced prosciutto or smoked ham (optional)

4 ounces stemmed shiitake caps, cut into ½-inch strips

4 ounces sugar snap peas, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces

3 cups cold Perfect Steamed Rice, clumps broken up with your fingertips

2 large eggs, beaten to blend

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce and oyster sauce together; set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the carrot and prosciutto, if using, and cook, stirring often, until the carrot is beginning to soften, about 30 seconds. Add the onion, shiitakes, and snap peas and cook, stirring often, until the onions soften, about 1½ minutes.

3. Add the rice to the skillet and cook, stirring almost constantly, until the rice is heated, about 1½ minutes. Add the soy sauce mixture and mix well. Move the fried rice mixture to one side of the skillet. Pour the beaten eggs into the empty side of the skillet and let them cook until the edges are set, about 30 seconds. Stir the eggs until they scramble into soft curds, about 20 seconds, and then mix them into the fried rice. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Fried Brown Rice with Shiitakes, Snap Peas, and Eggs: Substitute cold cooked brown rice for the white rice.

KIMCHI FRIED RICE WITH CELERY AND SCALLIONS

Serve with grilled flank steak or chicken marinated with Asian flavors.

Weeknight Suppers, Vegetarian

Cooking Time: 12 minutes

One of the many reasons I make my own kimchi is to have it on hand for this easy Korean side dish, one that I have been making since my first trip to Korea many years ago. It is sometimes cooked with bits of meat (ham, bacon, or even Spam, which I had in Hawaii) to create a light lunch or supper. But I serve this lighter vegetarian version as a spicy side dish for Asian main courses.

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 large celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch slices

4 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced

1½ cups coarsely chopped Napa Cabbage Kimchi with juices, or store-bought kimchi

3 cups cold cooked long-grain rice, clumps broken up with your fingertips

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Soy sauce, for serving

1. Cook the sesame seeds in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until they are toasted, about 3 minutes. Transfer them to a small plate.

2. Return the skillet to high heat. Add the vegetable oil and swirl to coat the bottom and inside of the skillet. Add the celery and stir almost constantly until it begins to soften, about 1 minute. Add the scallions and stir until they are wilted, about 1 minute. Add the kimchi and its juices and cook, stirring often, until it is hot, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, breaking up the rice with the spoon, stirring often, until the rice is hot and the ingredients are well combined, about 5 minutes. Drizzle with the sesame oil.

3. Transfer the fried rice to a serving bowl. Top it with the toasted sesame seeds and serve hot, with the soy sauce passed on the side.

SPICY FRIED RICE WITH CORN AND CILANTRO

Serve with chili, steaks, pork or lamb chops, roast chicken, or seafood.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 12 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

When I’m serving an uncomplicated main dish, such as roast chicken or pork chops, I like to balance the plate with a slightly more complicated side dish. Fried rice, prepared from leftover cold rice with vegetables, does the trick.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice

4 scallions (white and green parts), chopped

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

1 garlic clove, crushed through a garlic press

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

½ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

3½ cups cold cooked long-grain rice, clumps broken up with your fingertips

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese

Lime wedges, for serving

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add the scallions, jalapeño, and garlic and stir until the scallions are wilted, about 1 minute. Add the corn and broth and boil until the broth is reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the rice and cook, breaking up the rice with a spoon, stirring often, until it is hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in the cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Transfer the fried rice to a serving bowl. Sprinkle it with the Romano and serve with the lime wedges.

Risotto

In its birthplace, Italy, risotto is usually a first course before the main course. (The exception is the saffron risotto made with beef marrow that accompanies osso buco.) But risotto is very useful as a side dish to serve with a simply prepared protein. Very often, dinner at our house is a vegetable risotto topped with sautéed shrimp or a roasted fish fillet.

• Risotto gets its creamy texture from the natural starches in the rice. It is essential to use imported Italian rice grown specifically for risotto. Arborio is the most common variety, but it isn’t the only one. Look for carnaroli or vialone nano, both of which make excellent risotto. They are more expensive than Arborio, but worth it.

• The risotto should be stirred almost constantly during cooking, but that doesn’t mean you can’t occasionally walk away from the stove. Stirring helps release the starches and, of course, discourages the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

• The broth mixture (which is purposely diluted because risotto made with full-strength broth is too rich) must be kept steaming hot so the risotto keeps a steady temperature throughout the cooking process. You will need at least 6 cups of the broth mixture for every 1½ cups of rice. If you run out of broth toward the end of the cooking process, use hot water.

• For me, one of the pleasures of making risotto is stirring up a pot while chatting with my friends in the kitchen. But it can be partially made ahead, which may be more convenient. Cook the risotto for about 15 minutes, or until it is about three-quarters done. Spread the risotto on a large, rimmed baking sheet and cover it with parchment paper. The risotto can stand at room temperature for up to 2 hours. When ready to finish the cooking, return the risotto to the cooking pot, add a ladle of hot broth, and pick up where you left off, cooking the rice until it is barely tender.

SAFFRON AND SPRING VEGETABLE RISOTTO

Serve with chicken breast, fish fillets, or sautéed shrimp.

Make Ahead: See the instructions above.

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

This is the basic risotto recipe, and you can omit the saffron, if you wish. Improvise with other vegetables—cooked asparagus spears or sautéed mushrooms are also excellent. If you wish, substitute vegetable broth for the chicken to make a vegetarian dish.

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas

4 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed

½ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

1½ cups rice for risotto, such as Arborio, carnaroli, or vialone nano

1 garlic clove, minced

1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (2 ounces)

1. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the fresh peas and cook until they are tender, about 5 minutes. During the last minute or so, add the sugar snap peas. Drain, rinse under cold running water, and set aside. (Thawed frozen peas do not need to be cooked.)

2. Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the saffron and stir until it is slightly brittle, about 15 seconds. Add the broth and 2 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to very low to keep the liquid hot.

3. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until it turns from translucent to opaque (do not brown it), and it feels somewhat heavier in the spoon, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it is reduced to a few tablespoons, about 2 minutes.

4. Stir about ¾ cup of the hot broth into the rice. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the rice absorbs almost all of the broth, about 3 minutes. Stir in another ¾ cup of the broth, and stir until it is almost absorbed. Repeat, keeping the risotto at a steady simmer and adding more broth as it is absorbed, until you use all of the broth and the rice is barely tender, about 20 minutes total. If you run out of broth and the rice isn’t tender, use hot water. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, stir in the reserved pea mixture.

5. Remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Saffron Risotto alla Milanese: Omit the peas and sugar snap peas. Substitute beef broth for the chicken broth. (The risotto is usually made with poached beef marrow added at the end, but I prefer this version, which is less rich.)

RISOTTO WITH RADICCHIO AND PANCETTA

Serve with pork or veal chops, sausage, or salmon.

Make Ahead: See the instructions.

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare

I make this risotto to serve with grilled sausages or boneless pork chops. The risotto takes on a brown-red hue from the wine, but the topping of shredded fresh radicchio adds a splash of color.

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup (¼-inch) diced pancetta

1 tablespoon olive oil

1½ cups rice for risotto, such as Arborio, carnaroli, or vialone nano

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup hearty red wine, such as Chianti

1 head radicchio, cored, cut crosswise into very thin shreds, and coarsely chopped

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (2 ounces)

1. Bring the broth and 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Turn the heat to very low to keep the liquid hot.

2. Cook the pancetta with the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 3 minutes.

3. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until it turns from translucent to opaque (do not brown it) and it feels somewhat heavier in the spoon, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it is reduced to a few tablespoons, about 2 minutes.

4. Stir about ¾ cup of the hot broth into the rice. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the rice absorbs almost all of the broth, about 3 minutes. Stir in another ¾ cup of broth, and stir until it is almost absorbed. Repeat, keeping the risotto at a steady simmer and adding more broth as it is absorbed, until you use all of the broth and the rice is barely tender, about 20 minutes total. During the last 5 minutes, stir in two-thirds of the radicchio. If you run out of broth and the rice isn’t tender, use hot water.

5. Remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto into individual serving bowls. Top each with the reserved radicchio and serve.

Wild Rice

Long, dark wild rice has a nutty flavor and chewy texture. Actually a grass, and not a grain, it takes longer to cook than true rice and may not soak up all of its cooking liquid. You can still purchase hand-harvested wild rice (at a premium), but most of the product on the market is machine-harvested rice. Wild rice should be rinsed before cooking because some of the minimally processed varieties could retain a little grit.

• The cooking proportions for wild rice are 1 part wild rice to 3 parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

WILD RICE WITH SHALLOTS AND THYME

Serve with pork, chicken, turkey, duck, goose, or salmon.

Cooking Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic

Wild rice is a perfect side dish for main courses, especially at special holiday meals when you are already spending a bit of extra money. More so than white rice, wild rice needs a bit of extra seasoning to enhance its flavor, which I usually accomplish with shallots and herbs. For perfect results, be flexible with your cooking time. Remember that wild rice is its own animal, and it does not conform to the same cooking methods as white (or even brown) rice.

• The cooking time will fluctuate depending on how the rice is harvested (by hand or machine), which may or may not be listed on the packaging. For chewy, intact grains, cook the rice for the minimum time. For puffed, tender kernels, cook it longer. Add more hot water if it cooks away, or drain any leftover liquid.

1½ cups wild rice

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

4½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth or water

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme, rosemary, or sage

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Rinse the rice well in a wire sieve under cold running water. Melt the butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and add the shallots. Cook, stirring often, until the shallots soften, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the rice, broth, thyme, and salt and bring them to a boil over high heat. Tightly cover the saucepan and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the rice has reached the desired consistency, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

3. Drain the rice in a wire sieve. Transfer it to a serving bowl and serve.

Wild Rice with Dried Cherries and Pistachios: Add ½ cup coarsely chopped dried cherries and ½ cup coarsely chopped pistachios to the wild rice in the saucepan and let it stand for 5 minutes before serving.

ANNIE’S TWO-RICE “PIZZA” CASSEROLE

MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Serve as a buffet dish, with roast pork, baked ham, grilled meats or poultry, or poached salmon.

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cooking Time: 1¾ hours

Make Ahead: The casserole can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

My late friend Dick Kniss really only had two employers in his long, amazing career as a professional bassist: John Denver (with whom, along with Mike Taylor, he co-wrote “Sunshine on My Shoulders”) and Peter, Paul, and Mary. This beloved recipe, directly from Denver’s first wife, Annie, has long been a must-have at our extended family’s feasts. Its tomato-and-cheese flavor profile reminds me of a wild rice lasagna, if such a thing should exist. Note that the casserole takes a long time to bake while the rice slowly absorbs the tomato juices. Thank you Joan Authenrieth for reconstructing this recipe for me.

2 tablespoons plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

2 celery ribs, cut into ½-inch dice

8 ounces cremini or white button mushrooms, thinly sliced

½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice

½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch dice

2 garlic cloves, minced

One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes

1½ cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (about 6 ounces)

1½ cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese (about 6 ounces)

⅔ cup wild rice, rinsed and drained

⅔ cup basmati rice

½ cup chopped pitted kalamata olives

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups boiling water

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish and a large sheet of aluminum foil to cover the dish.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a very large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, mushrooms, and the green and red bell peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. During the last minute, stir in the garlic. Transfer the vegetables to a very large bowl.

3. Stir in the tomatoes and let the mixture cool slightly. Add the Cheddar and Jack cheeses, wild and basmati rices, olives, 6 tablespoons of the butter, and the salt and pepper and mix well. Add the boiling water and the remaining ¼ cup oil and mix again. Spread the mixture in the baking dish. Dot it with the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Cover tightly with the foil, oiled-side down. Place the baking dish on a large, rimmed baking sheet.

4. Bake until all of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 1¾ hours. Let it stand, uncovered, for 15 minutes. (The casserole can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat, covered, in a preheated 350°F oven for about 30 minutes.) Serve hot.

Polenta and Grits

Polenta and grits are both coarsely ground dried corn, and they have mainstreamed beyond their rustic roots to become darlings of the culinary world. In both cases, the corn is cooked in liquid into a thick mush. While polenta and grits are essentially the same, there are differences.

Polenta, originally from Italy, is made from the yellow dent corn variety (the domestic version is labeled corn grits). Some cooks resort to stone-ground cornmeal to make polenta, and while it will do in a pinch (reduce the cooking time by half), unless it is labeled coarsely ground, it is too fine. True polenta should be tender but still have some texture after cooking.

Grits are an essential food of the Deep South and can be ground from either yellow or white flint corn. The type of corn affects the cooked consistency. Polenta is very thick and can feel bumpy on the tongue, while grits are smoother and almost mushy.

Whenever possible, buy stone-ground polenta and grits because their flavor and texture are superior to the highly processed supermarket brands. While stone-ground cornmeal and old-fashioned grits (which are ground more finely to cook more quickly than coarse grits) can be used for these recipes, nothing beats the authentic versions. Quick-cooking grits and instant polenta have also been par-cooked for very fast cooking. They will do in a pinch and should be cooked according to the package directions.

• The cooking proportions for polenta or grits are 1 part of the grains to 4 parts liquid (water, broth, milk, or a combination).

• It is important to cover the saucepan while cooking to create the steam that keeps the polenta moist for a longer period of time. If the polenta is undercooked, the corn will taste bitter.

• The mixture will not truly boil or simmer, but “plop” with only a few bubbles breaking the surface. Whisk often to avoid scorching on the bottom of the saucepan.

BASIC SOFT AND CREAMY POLENTA

Serve with stews and other sauce-based main courses.

Family Favorite, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Cooking Time: 1 hour

For some stews, especially those with Italian flavors, polenta is the perfect bed to hold the saucy food. Milk helps give this polenta a creamy texture and even more substantial flavor. Use one of the variations as your mood (or the main course) dictates.

2 cups whole milk

1 cup polenta (corn grits or coarse-grind cornmeal)

Kosher salt

1. Whisk together the milk, 2 cups water, polenta, and 1½ teaspoons salt in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring them to a simmer over medium heat, whisking often.

2. Cook (the mixture will not boil), whisking often, until the polenta is stiff and has no bitter taste, about 1 hour. Season to taste with salt (be careful, as the polenta is very hot). Serve hot.

Hearty Polenta: Substitute 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth for the water.

Gorgonzola Polenta: Stir ½ cup (2 ounces) crumbled Gorgonzola into the finished polenta, and sprinkle additional Gorgonzola on top before serving.

Mascarpone and Thyme Polenta: Stir ½ cup (2 ounces) mascarpone and 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme into the finished polenta.

Parmesan Polenta: Stir ½ cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese into the finished polenta, and sprinkle additional Parmesan on top before serving.

Roasted Garlic Polenta: Add 2 tablespoons mashed Roasted Garlic Heads into the finished polenta.

Rosemary Polenta: Stir 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary into the finished polenta.

CREAMY GRITS WITH GARLIC BUTTER

Serve with beef stew, chili, smoked pork chops, ham, sausages, fried chicken, or sautéed shrimp.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Not having grown up in the South, I came late to the grits party. Can we please build a statue to the first cook who put garlic in grits? Some people eat grits for breakfast, but I like them with saucy food like chili and stew. Be sure to use a heavy-bottomed saucepan to keep the grits from scorching on the bottom.

• The basic proportions for cooking grits is 1 part grits to 4 parts liquid (milk, water, broth, or a combination).

1 cup whole milk

¾ cup white corn grits, preferably stone-ground (see Note)

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1. Whisk together 2 cups water with the milk, grits, and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring them to a simmer over medium heat, whisking often. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

2. Cook (bubbles will only occasionally break the surface), whisking occasionally, until the grits are very thick and tender, about 20 minutes. If the grits become too thick before they are tender, whisk in ½ cup hot water. Season to taste with salt (be careful, as the grits are very hot).

3. A few minutes before serving, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring often, just until it is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

4. Transfer the grits to a serving bowl. Pour the butter and garlic on top and serve.

Note: If you use supermarket “old-fashioned grits,” reduce the cooking time to about 12 minutes.

Smoky Grits with Garlic Butter: Stir ¾ cup shredded smoked Cheddar cheese (about 3 ounces) into the cooked grits. Transfer the grits to the serving bowl and top with the garlic butter.

CHEESE AND GRITS SOUFFLÉ

Serve with grilled or pan-cooked sausages, fried chicken, egg dishes, or vegetarian meals.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 40 minutes

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

Everyone loves the warming comfort of a good grits casserole. Here’s my version, with a few twists to make it fit for a company brunch or barbecue. I made this recently for friends in California who had never had grits before, and they ran immediately to their laptop to mail order some.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 tablespoon softened)

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

2 cups whole milk

1¼ teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup grits, preferably stone ground (see Note)

3 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (4 ounces)

¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter the inside of a 1½-quart soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon of the softened butter. Sprinkle the inside of the dish with the Parmesan, tilt to coat it completely with the cheese, and leave any excess cheese in the bottom of the dish.

2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and jalapeño and cook, stirring often, until they are softened but not browned, about 1 minute. Add 2 cups water with the milk and salt and bring to a boil over high heat, being careful that the mixture does not boil over. Gradually whisk in the grits. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, whisking often to avoid sticking, until the grits are very thick and smooth, about 20 minutes. (The grits will be cooked more during baking, so they are not simmered for as long here as in other recipes.) Remove from the heat.

3. Using a whisk or a handheld electric mixer on high speed, whip the egg whites until they form stiff, but not dry, peaks; set them aside. Immediately add the Cheddar and hot sauce to the grits mixture, and stir to melt the cheese. Whisk the egg yolks in a small bowl. Whisk in about ½ cup of the grits mixture, and quickly whisk the yolk mixture back into the saucepan. Stir about one-fourth of the whites into the grits mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish and smooth the top.

4. Place the dish on a baking sheet. Bake until the top is evenly golden brown and puffed, about 35 minutes. Serve immediately.

Note: If using supermarket “old-fashioned grits,” reduce the cooking time to about 12 minutes.

Bulgur

Parboiled, dried, and cracked wheat berries—bulgur cooks in just a few minutes and is a great alternative to rice on a busy weeknight. It is processed into four grinds: fine, medium, coarse, and extra-coarse. Most supermarkets and natural food stores carry only the medium variety, and you have to make a special effort to find the other grinds at a Middle Eastern grocer.

• The cooking proportions for bulgur are 1 part bulgur to 2 parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

• If you want plain bulgur (not cooked in broth), there is an alternative method. Put the bulgur in a heatproof bowl and add enough boiling water to cover. Stir the mixture and let stand until the bulgur is softened and has absorbed most of the water, about 20 minutes. Drain the bulgur in a wire mesh sieve.

BULGUR WITH DRIED APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS

Serve with roast lamb, chops, or kebabs; lamb stew; or roast chicken.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Vegetarian

As a Middle Eastern ingredient, bulgur is a natural with such grilled lamb dishes as chops and kebabs. The sweet fruit in this dish plays off the nutty flavor of the cracked wheat. Dried fruits are sometimes plumped in hot water, but here they are simply steamed during the bulgur’s resting period, for the same effect without diluting any flavor.

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 scallions (white and pale green bottoms, finely chopped; green tops, thinly sliced)

1 cup medium-grind bulgur

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth or water

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

6 dried apricots, cut into ½-inch dice (about ½ cup)

3 tablespoons toasted and coarsely chopped pistachios

1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the scallion bottoms and cook, stirring often, until they are softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the bulgur. Add the broth and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover tightly. Simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the bulgur is just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

2. Sprinkle the apricots over the bulgur, but do not stir. Let the pan stand, covered, until the apricots are heated and softened, about 5 minutes more. Fluff the bulgur with a fork. Stir in the scallion tops and pistachios. Serve hot.

Bulgur with Dried Cherries and Mint: Omit the scallions. Substitute ½ cup dried sour cherries for the diced apricots. Stir 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint into the cooked bulgur with the pistachios.

Farro

In the Old World, farro has been eaten for centuries, but it has been available here for only the last few years. Farro can be one of three wheat varieties: small (eikhorn), medium (emmer), or large (spelt). Most of the farro sold in our markets is emmer that has been semi-pearled (that is, with some of its tough bran removed), but it may not always be labeled that way. If the recommended cooking time is about 20 minutes, it is semi-pearled. Otherwise, allow about 45 minutes to cook the farro to chewy tenderness.

• The cooking proportions for farro are 1 part farro to about 3 parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

FARRO, BUTTERNUT SQUASH, AND WILTED ARUGULA

Serve with grilled meats, sausages, or poultry, especially those with Mediterranean seasonings; or grilled fish and shrimp.

Weeknight Suppers, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

With a package of precut butternut squash to reduce the prep time, this filling and tasty dish is a very simple way to use Old World ingredients in a contemporary way. Peppery arugula is usually served as a salad green, but here I use it as a savory green with steamed farro and roasted squash. For a vegetarian dish, substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth. Often, I roast bone-in chicken breasts with their skin on the same baking sheet as the squash, starting the chicken about 15 minutes ahead.

One 20-ounce container butternut squash cubes (about 4 cups, see Note)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup semi-pearled farro

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

Kosher salt

2 ounces baby arugula, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup packed)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Toss the squash with the oil on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Spread the squash in a singer layer on the sheet. Roast until the undersides are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Using a metal spatula, flip the squash over and continue roasting until the squash is golden brown and tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring the farro, broth, 1¼ cups water, and ½ teaspoon salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer until the farro is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid, about 20 minutes. Remove it from the heat and add the arugula but do not stir it into the farro. Cover again and let it stand for 5 minutes. If necessary, drain the farro mixture in a wire sieve. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Remove the squash from the oven and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the farro and arugula to a serving dish, fluffing the farro as you do so, and top it with the squash. Mix them together gently, and serve hot.

Note: If you wish, substitute one 2-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes. Roast all of the squash, and save any leftovers for another meal.

Freekeh

Also a dried wheat with roots in Middle Eastern cuisine, freekeh is similar to bulgur. The grains are harvested while still yellowish-green, young, and tender, and then roasted and sun-dried to give them a toasted flavor. For the shortest cooking time (20 minutes), buy the cracked version instead of the whole grain (45 minutes).

• The cooking proportions for freekeh are 1 part freekeh to about 2½ parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

FREEKEH WITH ZUCCHINI, YOGURT, AND DILL

Serve with lamb roasts or chops; roast chicken; or salmon fillets.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 zucchini, cut into ¼-inch dice

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

¾ cup whole-grain freekeh (see Note)

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, vegetable broth, or water

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup toasted pine nuts

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

⅓ cup plain low-fat or whole-milk Greek yogurt

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring often, until it is lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the zucchini to a bowl and set aside.

2. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the saucepan and heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the freekeh. Add the broth and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and tightly cover the saucepan. Simmer until the freekeh is tender and has absorbed the broth, about 45 minutes. Do not worry if there is some liquid left. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Drain the freekeh in a wire sieve, if necessary.

3. Transfer the freekeh mixture to a serving bowl. Add the zucchini, pine nuts, and dill and combine. Dollop the yogurt on the pilaf and serve.

Note: If using cracked freekeh, reduce the cooking time to about 20 minutes.

Kasha (Buckwheat Groats)

A staple of Eastern European cooking, kasha is toasted buckwheat groats. They are reddish-brown, with a distinct roasted aroma, so don’t confuse them with untoasted buckwheat groats. This is another quick-cooking grain that could become a regular side dish, as it has in my house.

• The cooking portions for kasha are 1 part kasha to about 2 parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

KASHA WITH BOW-TIE PASTA AND CARAMELIZED ONIONS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Serve with roast lamb or chicken.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Retro Recipe, Cooking Classic

Cooking Time: 35 minutes

Nutty, toasty, and sweet flavors mingle in this iconic dish of Jewish cuisine. The kasha is coated with beaten egg and cooked before adding the liquid, a step that helps keep the grains separate. You will need the parsley to spruce up the color of the brown ingredients. Because this takes up two burners to cook, serve it with an oven-roasted main course to avoid a traffic jam on the stovetop.

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 yellow onions, chopped

1¾ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 cups bow-tie pasta

1 large egg

1 cup kasha

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cover the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are well softened, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and uncover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deep golden brown and very tender, about 25 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the caramelized onions to a bowl and cover to keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the bow-tie pasta and cook according to the package directions until the pasta is tender.

3. Meanwhile, cook the kasha. Beat the egg in a medium bowl, add the kasha, and stir well to coat the kasha. Heat a nonstick medium skillet over medium heat. Add the coated kasha and cook, stirring almost constantly with a wooden spoon to break up the clumps of kasha, until the mixture looks dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the broth, ½ cup water, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to the kasha and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover tightly. Simmer until the kasha is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove it from the heat and let it stand, covered, to keep warm.

4. Drain the pasta well and return it to its cooking pot. Fluff the kasha with a fork and stir it into the pasta. Add half of the onions and the parsley and mix well. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and top it with the remaining onions. Serve hot.

Kasha with Bow-Tie Pasta and Walnuts: The walnuts play up the nutty flavor of the kasha. Stir ⅓ cup toasted coarsely chopped walnuts into the kasha mixture with the caramelized onions.

KASHA WITH PORTOBELLOS AND THYME

Serve with roast chicken, roast duck, or roast lamb or chops.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Cooking Classic

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Mushrooms and kasha are a combination that many mid-European cooks know and love. In this recipe, they are cooked separately and combined just before serving. Portobello mushrooms are my first choice because they give off dark juices to flavor the kasha, but you can substitute other mushrooms as long as you cook them just to the point where they give off their liquid.

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

Kosher salt

1 cup kasha

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

2 portobello mushrooms, caps and stems cut into ½-inch dice

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried

1. Bring the broth and ¾ teaspoon salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Stir in the kasha and return it to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low and cover tightly. Simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the kasha is just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms give off their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in the shallots and thyme. Cook, stirring often, until the shallots soften, about 1 minute. Remove them from the heat.

3. Fluff the kasha with a fork. Stir in half of the mushroom mixture. Transfer the kasha to a serving bowl and top it with the remaining mushrooms. Serve hot.

Millet

I can’t help but make the obvious connection between millet and bird seed, because they are one and the same. Maybe that is one of the reasons why millet gets little respect from the average cook. I know that my attitude changed once I started cooking it. This tiny yellow grain is the main food for millions, so it deserves to be a staple in my kitchen (and maybe yours, too, if you are coming late to the millet party).

• The cooking proportions for millet are 1 part millet to 2 parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

TOASTED MILLET PILAF WITH CURRANTS

Serve with roasted vegetables, roast chicken, or seafood.

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare

Toasting brings out millet’s nutty flavor, and the sweet currants balance its earthy notes. For vegetarians, make this with vegetable broth for a side dish, or top it with your favorite roasted vegetables to turn it into a main course.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup millet

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth or water

Kosher salt

½ cup dried currants or seedless raisins

1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the millet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the seeds start to pop and they smell toasted, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and stir well.

2. Add the broth and ½ teaspoon salt and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and tightly cover the saucepan. Simmer until the millet is tender and has absorbed the broth, about 20 minutes. Remove it from the heat. Add the currants but do not stir them in. Cover the saucepan again and let it stand for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

3. Transfer the millet to a serving dish, fluffing it and mixing in the currants with a fork as you do so, and serve.

Quinoa

In addition to its nutty flavor and fluffy texture, quinoa has many other attractive qualities. It is a complete protein (meaning it contains all nine of the essential amino acids, which combine to create a protein), something that is not found in any other edible plants. For example, beans and rice must be eaten together to complement each other’s missing amino acids. Although quinoa has been grown and consumed in the Andes for centuries, it has only recently been found in American kitchens, and it has taken off like wildfire. The four varieties sold in this country, which are interchangeable as far as cooking goes, are yellow (the most common), red (with a bit more flavor), black (with a firmer texture), and a rainbow combination of all three. Choose a color that will complement your main course.

• A very important caveat: Quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the saponin, its natural and bitter coating. Just put the seeds in a fine-mesh wire sieve and rinse well under cold running water. (The sieve must be fine enough to hold the tiny quinoa without letting them fall through the mesh.)

• The cooking proportions for quinoa are 1 part quinoa to 1½ parts liquid (water, broth, or a combination).

Quinoa with Carrot and Mint

QUINOA WITH CARROT AND MINT

Serve with meat, chicken, or seafood dishes, especially those with sauces.

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Quinoa can be slightly bitter, even after you rinse off the saponin coating that causes the flavor. Carrot and mint balance this quality with their sweetness and perk up the quinoa’s neutral color, too.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, cut into ½-inch dice

1 cup quinoa, rinsed well under cold water in a fine wire sieve, and drained

1½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

1. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cover the saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the quinoa and stir well. Add the broth and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the saucepan again. Simmer until the quinoa is tender and has absorbed the liquid, 20 to 25 minutes. (Don’t worry if the quinoa is tender and some liquid remains.) Remove it from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Drain the quinoa in a wire sieve, if necessary.

3. Add the mint and fluff the quinoa with a fork. Serve hot.

RAINBOW QUINOA WITH SPINACH AND WALNUTS

Serve with meat, chicken, and seafood dishes, especially those with sauces.