6Drinking & Nightlife

Home to the largest concentration of bars and cafes in the whole of Shanghai, the French Concession offers drinkers a choice between elegant bars housed in colonial-era villas, foreign pubs around the north end of Hengshan Rd, as well as a brand-new crop of places springing up along the alcohol-sodden Yongkang Rd.

6French Concession East

oCafe des StagiairesBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafestagiaires.com; 54-56 Yongkang Rd; 54-56 mains from ¥40; h10am-midnight; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

The best bar by far on buzzing Yongkang Rd, this hip oasis of Francophilia spills over with slightly zany Gallic charm. There's a coke bottle chandelier and a (French) geography lesson via the wine list: Languedoc, Provence, Cote du Rhone, Loire, Alsace, Bourgogne, Bordeaux and, bien sur, Rest of the World. Each table is regularly stocked with addictive chilli peanuts.

If that's insufficient, sample the quality charcuterie, cheese and pizzas.

oBell BarBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bellbar.cn; Tianzifang, back door No 11, Lane 248, Taikang Rd; 24811 h11am-2am; W; mDapuqiao)

This eccentric, unconventional boho haven is a delightful Tianzifang hideaway, with creaking, narrow wooden stairs leading to a higgledy-piggledy array of rooms to the tucked-away attic slung out above. Expect hookah pipes, mismatched furniture, warped secondhand paperbacks and a small, secluded mezzanine for stowaways from the bedlam outside. It’s in the second alley (Lane 248) on the right.

Watch the narrow steps on the way down, if you've had a few.

oDean's Bottle ShopBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 40 Yongkang Rd; 40 beers from ¥15; hnoon-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

This well-priced nirvana for lovers of the grain (and, to a lesser extent, grape) has row upon row of imported bottled bliss – Moosehead lager, Old Rasputin, Young's double chocolate, Bombadier ale, pear cider – all at bargain prices. With more than enough labels to test even the most well-travelled palates, it's more shop than bar, but you can sit down.

It's a great start or concluding point to a trawl along the bars of Yongkang Rd. There's another shop on nearby Shaoxing Rd (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 37 Shaoxing Rd; 37 mDapuqiao).

Citizen CafeCAFE

(Tiantai Canting MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 222 Jinxian Rd; 222 h11am-12.30am; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Decked out with small lampshades and panelled walls like a private living room, this is a romantic and quiet spot, and candlelit come sundown as smooth ambient sounds manage a relaxed tempo. Recharge with a club sandwich or sit back with one of the much-loved ginger cocktails while watching street scenes unfold from the 2nd-floor terrace. Smokers get to sit by the door.

Vienna CafeCAFE

(Weiyena Kafeiguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6445 2131; 25 Shaoxing Rd; 25 h8am-8pm; W; mJiashan Rd)

With a small sun-flecked conservatory at the rear, this European-style cafe does striped-wallpaper and round marble-top tables; it's ideal for unwinding with a Kafka and a coffee. Sign up for one of the breakfasts for endless caffeine on tap and nod off to the soft jazz accompaniment. Movie nights are held every Thursday at 7.30pm; call to reserve a spot.

No wi-fi connection on weekends.

KaibaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kaiba-beerbar.com; Tianzifang, 2nd fl, 169 Middle Jianguo Rd; 1692 h11am-2am; W; mDapuqiao)

This branch of the Kaiba beer specialists is a popular Tianzifang choice in the add-on Taikang Terrace development.

Boxing Cat BreweryBREWERY

(Quanjimao Pijiuwu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; unit 26a, Sinan Mansions, 519 Middle Fuxing Rd; 51926a h11am-2am; mXintiandi)

This branch of Boxing Cat Brewery in the Sinan Mansions complex isn't as popular as its West Fuxing Rd outfit, but is a staple among Shanghai's beer-o-philes, with a strong showing of craft brews.

GeishaBAR, CLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegeisha-shanghai.com; 390 South Shaanxi Rd; 390 h5pm-2am; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Although the Geisha unfortunately falls well short of its claim to provide a ‘surreal high-class brothel atmosphere’ (sorry guys), it’s definitely on the radar for a fun evening out, with a dance club on the 2nd floor, sake lounge on the 3rd floor and an equally popular California-style Japanese restaurant on the 1st.

TMSKBAR

(Touming Sikao MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6326 2227; Xintiandi North Block, Bldg 11; 18111 h11.30am-1am; W; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)

A place to visit as much for the decor as for the drinks, TMSK is designed within an inch of its life. The whole place is full of swirled pastel-coloured glass (liuli), but the interior design pales into insignificance once the house band gets going with its unholy fusion of techno and traditional Chinese music (Fridays and Saturdays at 8.30pm).

Burdigala 2WINE BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theburdigala.com; 2nd fl, 301 Jiashan Rd; 3012 h11.30am-late; W; mJiashan Rd)

For Bordeaux wine enthusiasts, welcoming Burdigala 2 is an affordable choice in a city increasingly dotted with wine bars. Knowledgeable staff are at hand for pointers, while a decent French bistro menu takes care of evening dining and weekend brunches.

YY’sBAR

(Lunhui Jiuba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6466 4098; basement, 125 Nanchang Rd; 125 h6pm-4am; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Once home to the Shanghai underground scene (way back in the 1990s), YY’s has successfully remained on the fringes of the city’s consciousness without ever becoming too hip. Now relegated to the basement, it continues to attract an alternative crowd and has its own rough-edged appeal, which increases as night blurs into dawn.

Dr BarBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xintiandi North Block, Bldg 15, Lane 181, Taicang Rd; 18115 h4pm-1am; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)

This neat bar is just what the doctor ordered: all in black and chrome; pupil-dilating minimalist cool. Note the almost obliterated Maoist slogans outside, on either side of the shikumen (stone-gate) door.

LoushiCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.loushispace.com; 145 Nanchang Rd; 145 h10am-11pm; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

An antique-store-cum-cafe, this homey space is cluttered with Shanghai antiques and collectibles, from the chairs you sit in to the stone bodhisattvas, and to the art deco light fixtures and attractive furniture fashioned from recyled wood. Regardless of whether or not you’re in the market for home furnishings, it’s a great place to get off your feet for a spell.

6French Concession West

oCotton’sBAR

(Mianhua Jiuba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6433 7995; www.cottons-shanghai.com; 132 Anting Rd; 132 h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; mHengshan Rd, Zhaojiabang Rd)

This excellent bar is perhaps the most pleasant spot in the Concession to raise a glass. Ensconced in a converted 1930s villa, the bar's interior has cosy sofas and fireplaces to snuggle around in the winter and a tiny outdoor terrace on the 2nd floor. The real draw, though, is the garden, which is intimate yet still big enough not to feel cramped.

The drinks and bar snacks, pizzas, burgers, salads and sandwiches are reasonably priced and the crowd is a good mix of locals and expats. You’ll have to get here early on weekends to grab a table outside, or book ahead.

oEl CoctelBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6433 6511; 2nd fl, 47 Yongfu Rd; 47 h5pm-3am; mShanghai Library)

What do you get when you cross an ever-inventive Spanish chef with a perfectionist bartender from Japan? El Coctel, of course – an artsy, retro cocktail lounge that mixes up some damn fine drinks. The mixology list goes beyond the usual suspects: sample old-school temptations such as the black Manhattan or the Bermuda mule, but come with cash to spare.

If you don’t reserve you might find it hard to get in, but don’t worry, as there’s a line of bars downstairs, including a surprisingly popular French pirate rum bar (Bounty Rhumerie).

oShelterCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Yongfu Rd; 5 h9pm-4am Wed-Sat; mShanghai Library)

The darling of the underground crowd, Shelter is a reconverted bomb shelter where you can count on great music, cheap drinks and a nonexistent dress code. They bring in a fantastic line-up of international DJs and hip-hop artists; the large barely lit dance area is the place to be. Cover for big shows is usually around ¥30.

oApartmentBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6437 9478; www.theapartment-shanghai.com; 3rd fl, 47 Yongfu Rd; 47 h5pm-late; W; mShanghai Library)

This trendy loft-style bar is designed to pull in the full spectrum of 30-something professionals, with a comfort-food menu; a dance space and lounge zone; a retro bar room; and topping it all a terrace for views and the summer BBQ action.

oBoxing Cat BreweryBREWERY

(Quanjimao Pijiuwu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boxingcatbrewery.com; 82 West Fuxing Rd; 82 h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, 3pm-2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; W; mShanghai Library, Changshu Rd)

A deservedly popular three-floor microbrewery, with a rotating line-up of fresh beers that range from the Standing 8 Pilsner to the Right Hook Helles. But that’s not all – the omnipresent restaurateur Kelley Lee has paired Southern classics (gumbo) and sandwiches (Cali-Cajun chicken club) to go with the drinks. Come for a pint; stay for dinner.

oAbbey RoadBAR

(Aibi Zhi Lu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.abbeyroad-shanghai.com; 45 Yueyang Rd; 45 h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; W; mChangshu Rd)

The cheap beer with classic rock combination works its stuff again, attracting plenty of regulars to this pub. Once the weather becomes nice, the tree-shaded outdoor patio adds the final ingredient to make this an irresistible favourite. There are gigantic portions of Swiss pub food too, and live moptop sounds from the Shanghai Beatles (and other bands).

DadaCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 115 Xingfu Rd; 115 h8pm-late; mJiaotong University)

This friendly no-frills place stuffed away down an alley near Jiaotong University is one of Shanghai’s most popular dives, specialising in cheap drinks, Tuesday-night slasher flicks (free popcorn) and popular weekend dance parties.

oDr WineWINE BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 177 Fumin Rd; 177 h11am-2am; W; mJing’an Temple)

Black-leather armchairs, salvaged shikumen brick walls and worn-in tables set the mood at this casual, two-storey wine bar on Fumin Rd. Wines are sold by both the glass and bottle, and the prices are reasonably affordable. The usual French accompaniments – cheese and charcuterie (saucisson, pate etc) – are on the menu, as well as weekday set-lunch deals.

ConstellationBAR

(Jiuchi Xingzuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5404 0970; 86 Xinle Rd; 86 h7pm-2am; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

The bow-tied staff at the Japanese-run Constellation take their drinks seriously – you’re not going to get any watered-down cocktails here. A choice selection of whiskies (including a samurai-helmeted Nikka), Van Gogh prints on the walls and overhead black lights make this a classy yet appealingly eccentric place.

CamelSPORTS BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camelsportsbar.com; 1 Yueyang Rd; 1 h11am-2am Mon-Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; mChangshu Rd)

The French Concession’s go-to sports bar, Camel has pool tables, dartboards, foosball, big screens at all angles and nightly meal and drink offers, plus a big Tuesday quiz night. Pints are sensibly priced and the bar often stays open until odd hours so that fans can catch that crucial 4am game.

Eddy’s BarBAR

(Jianong Xiuxian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1877 Middle Huaihai Rd; 1877, h8pm-2am; mJiaotong University)

Shanghai’s longest-running gay bar is a friendly place with a flash, square bar to sit around, as well as a few corners to hide away in. It attracts both locals and expats, but it’s mostly for the boys rather than the girls. The entrance is on Tianping Rd.

LolaCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lolaclubshanghai.com; Bldg 4, Surpass Court, 570 Yongjia Rd; 5704 h6pm-late; mHengshan Rd)

A superior sound system and wall-to-ceiling video projections that sync with the beat pull in the crowds at this first-rate club, opened by a trio of Catalan DJs. Plus, it serves tapas.

Shanghai BreweryBREWERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shanghaibrewery.com; 15 Dongping Rd; 15 h10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; mChangshu Rd, Hengshan Rd)

Hand-crafted microbrews, a big range of comfort food, pool tables and sports on TV…this massive two-storey hang-out might have it all. Well, it certainly has enough to stand out on a strip already bursting with established names. Try the Czech-style People’s Pilsner or the Hong Mei Amber Hefeweizen, which start at a mere ¥20 during happy hour (from 2pm to 8pm).

Glo LoungeBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.glolondon.com; 1 South Wulumuqi Rd; 1 h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun; mChangshu Rd, Hengshan Rd)

Glo London’s lounge bar is angling to become the neighbourhood’s sophisticated option – no rowdy guys cheering on their favourite teams here. Instead you get an extensive mojito list, proper dry martinis, candlelit tables and all the requisite pretty young things.

People 7BAR

(Renjian Yingqi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5404 0707; 803 Julu Rd; 803 h11.30am-2pm & 6pm-midnight; mJing’an Temple, Changshu Rd)

Getting into this superstylish bar is an achievement in itself. That’s not because there’s a door policy, but because the shiny steel doors only open if you insert your hand into one of the nine holes set into the wall. Once inside, there’s a long steel bar on which to rest the oddly shaped glass your cocktail arrives in.

With white armchairs scattered throughout the dimly lit interior and bathrooms that are even harder to work out than the front door, this place could be oppressively trendy. But it isn’t. They do affordable Chinese food, too.

EnoterraWINE BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 53-57 Anfu Rd; 53-57 h10am-2am; W; mChangshu Rd)

Wine bars have hit Shanghai big time. With its convivial atmosphere and affordable wines by the glass and bottle, Enoterra was the first to provide a winning formula. There’s a definite focus on French wines – from sunny Corbieres to powerful Vacqueyras – but there’s a good selection of New World wines as well. Meals are also served.

Shanghai StudioBAR

(Jianong Xiuxian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shanghai-studio.com; No 4, Lane 1950, Middle Huaihai Rd; 19504 h9pm-2am; mJiaotong University)

This hip addition to the Shanghai gay scene has transformed the cool depths of a former bomb shelter into a laid-back bar, an art gallery, and a men’s underwear shop – MANifesto (open from 2pm to 2am). There’s a ¥100 open bar on Thursday and wine at ¥99 a bottle on Wednesdays.

Time PassageBAR

(Zuotian Jintian Mingtian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 183, Lane 1038, Caojiayan Rd; 1038183 h4.30pm-2am; W; mJiangsu Rd)

Smacked by backhand volleys and aces from the adjacent tennis courts, Time Passage has real staying power, clocking up almost 20 years in the business of cheap beer and good music. Beyond its no-nonsense Gucci-free vibe – not a suit in sight – it’s a relaxing, down-to-earth spot for an evening beer or a daytime coffee.

There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, and a daily happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm.

Sasha’sBAR

(Sasha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6474 6628; 11 Dongping Rd, cnr Hengshan Rd; 11, h11am-2am; W; mChangshu Rd, Hengshan Rd)

Housed in a fine old mansion that once belonged to the Soong family, Sasha’s large garden is one of Shanghai’s most splendid summer spots. There’s a pricey expat restaurant on the premises, but this place is renowned not so much for blow-out dinners as it is for the weekend brunches and outdoor lounging in warmer weather.

390 BarCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.390shanghai.com; 390 Panyu Rd; 390 h6pm-late; W; mJiaotong University)

One of the only LGBT clubs in Shanghai, the 390 Bar was opened up by the owner of Shanghai Studio and his partner, who runs local vinyl store Uptown Records. The club is divided into several sections, with live music, a dance floor and two bars.

BeaverBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Yueyang Rd; 28 h5.30pm-late; mChengshan Rd, Hengshan Rd)

For a grungy ambience, this chipped and bruised bar gets straight to the point, hoovering up no-nonsense beer hounds with affordable booze, an undemanding music menu tilted towards US rock, and table football. A bottle of Xinjiang black beer will set you back ¥25 (less during happy hour).

YONGKANG ROAD BAR STREET

A new bar street suddenly formed - largely overnight - during 2013 in the French Concession, kicked off by the peerless Cafe des Stagiaires, which still leads the way. The small strip of Yongkang Rd between South Xiangyang Rd and Jiashan Rd was suddenly crammed with bars, making it a convenient catch-all similar to Hong Kong's Lan Kwai Fong entertainment area (albeit much smaller and quieter) for a night on the Shanghai tiles. A pavement curfew at 10pm reigns, however, to appease locals living on the road, who were up in arms over the sudden, noisy transformation of their neighbourhood.

3Entertainment

MAO LivehouseLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mao-music.com; 3rd fl, 308 South Chongqing Rd; 3083 mDapuqiao)

One of the city’s best and largest music venues, MAO is a stalwart of the Shanghai music scene, with acts ranging from rock to pop to electronica. Check the website for schedules and ticket prices.

JZ ClubLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6385 0269; www.jzclub.cn; 46 West Fuxing Rd; 46 h9pm-2am; mChangshu Rd)

JZ is one of the best places in town for serious music lovers. The schedule rotates local and international groups, with sounds ranging from fusion, Latin and R&B to Chinese folk-jazz; music generally gets going around 9pm. There’s a ¥50 cover on Monday, Friday and Saturday nights. It also organises the annual JZ Shanghai Jazz Festival.

Cotton ClubLIVE MUSIC

(Mianhua Julebu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6437 7110; www.thecottonclub.cn; 8 West Fuxing Rd; 8 h7.30pm-2am Tue-Sun; mChangshu Rd)

Harlem it ain’t, but this is still the best and longest-running bar for live jazz in Shanghai. It features blues and jazz groups throughout the week. Wynton Marsalis once stepped in to jam, forever sealing the Cotton Club’s reputation as the top live-music haunt in town. The music gets going around 9pm.

Cathay TheatreCINEMA

(Guotai Dianyingyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 870 Middle Huaihai Rd; 870 tickets from ¥40; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

This 1932 art deco theatre is one of the cheaper and more centrally located French Concession cinemas. If you want to know if the film is in the original, ask if it's the yuanban version.

Shanghai Conservatory of MusicCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Shanghai Yinyue Xueyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6431 1792; 20 Fenyang Rd; 20 hticket office 9am-5pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

The auditorium here holds classical-music performances (Chinese and Western) daily at 7.15pm, and the musicians are often the stars of the future. The ticket office (shoupiaochu) is in the southern part of the campus. Ask for directions once you’re at the school.

Shanghai Culture SquareTHEATRE

(Shanghai Wenhua Guangchang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 597 Middle Fuxing Rd; 597 mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

State-of-the-art theatrical facility with a focus on musicals, drama, ballet and classic traditional Chinese and international productions.

UME International CineplexCINEMA

(Guoji Yingcheng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ume.com.cn; Xintiandi South Block, 5th fl, Bldg 6; 65 mSouth Huangpi Rd)

This thoroughly modern cinema complex at Xintiandi screens Hollywood and Chinese films, with half-price tickets during the day on Tuesdays.

Shanghai Guqin Cultural FoundationCULTURAL CENTRE

(Shanghai Guqin Wenhua Hui MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6437 4111; www.yhgy-guqin.com; 1801 Middle Huaihai Rd; 1801 h9am-5pm; mShanghai Library)

This cultural centre offers classes in a handful of traditional arts: Chinese ink painting, weiqi (go) and the guqin (seven-string zither). It’s possible to drop by just to visit the old 1930s villa, and on Friday nights there are sometimes free music performances at 7pm (call first).

7Shopping

Huaihai Rd in the French Concession area is the modern shopping street in Shanghai. The avenue’s packed with towering department stores and global chains. To seek out local boutiques and trendy shoe shops, however, head along leafy backstreets such as Nanchang or Xinle Rds. Xintiandi has plenty of high-end brands, but for sheer diversity, nothing beats Tianzifang, one of the best shopping destinations in the city.

7French Concession East

oTianzifangCLOTHING, SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lane 210, Taikang Rd; 210 mDapuqiao)

Burrow into the lilong (alleys) here for a rewarding haul of creative boutiques, selling everything from hip jewellery and yak-wool scarves to retro communist dinnerware. Shanghai 1936 (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Unit 110, No 3, Lane 210; h10am-8pm; mDapuqiao) is the place to pick up a tailored waitao (Chinese jacket) or qipao (figure-hugging Chinese dress); it also has a nearby men’s store (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Unit 910, No 9, Lane 210; h10am-8pm; mDapuqiao).

Further along is Harvest (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rm 18, Bldg 3, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 2103118 h9.30am-8pm; mDapuqiao), which sells Miao embroidery from southwest China, and the courtyard at No 7, Lane 210 (aka the Yard): look for Himalayan jewellery and tapestries at Joma (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Unit 6, No 7, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 2107-6 mDapuqiao) and local fashion designers at La Vie. For funky ceramics, cloisonne and lacquer, stop by excellent Pilingpalang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://pilingpalang.com; No 220, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 21022 h10am-9pm; mDapuqiao). Pop into colourful Link Shanghai for imaginative art work and books and Shanghai Code for vintage spectacle frames. You'll find 1960s propaganda prints and old calendar posters at Unique Hill Gallery (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.uniquehillgallery.com; No 10, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 21010 h9am-10pm; mDapuqiao). The vibrant and colourful selection of crafts at Esydragon (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6467 4818; No 51, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 21051 mDapuqiao) makes for excellent gifts; Zhenchalin Tea has Chinese herbal teas in nifty packaging. Other stand-out stores are Chouchou Chic (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 5, Lane 248, Taikang Rd; 2485 mDapuqiao) and Urban Tribe (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 14, Lane 248, Taikang Rd; 24814 mDapuqiao).

oXintiandiCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xintiandi.com; 2 blocks btwn Taicang, Zizhong, Madang & South Huangpi Rds; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)

There are few bargains to be had at Xintiandi, but even window-shoppers can make a fun afternoon of it here. The North Block features embroidered accessories at Annabel Lee, high-end fashion from Shanghai Tang and home furnishings at Simply Life and a few scattered souvenir shops. The South Block has not one, but two malls, including Xintiandi Style (Xintiandi Shishang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 245 Madang Rd; 245 ).

Serious shoppers should make for Xintiandi Style, which features a handful of local designers including La Vie, Heirloom, the Thing, Shanghai Trio, Even Penniless and Xi Su.

Liuli China Museum ShopARTS & CRAFTS

(Liuli Yishu Bowuguan Shangdian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Taikang Rd; 25 h10am-10pm Tue-Sun; mDapuqiao)

At this crystal art shop you can marvel at iridescent cast-glass creations such as contemplative monks, majestic dragons or exquisite earrings and pendants, or browse through the quality collection of English-language books and other knick-knacks.

Link ShanghaiARTS & CRAFTS

(Dajie MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.olinksh.com; No 5, Lane 248, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 2485 h10.30am-9pm; mDapuqiao)

This tiny and colourful shop for local designers and artists always has something fascinating going on, from the rivetingly good surreal paintings of Shan Jiang to eye-catching books, notepads, posters and the fun 'letter girl' T-shirts.

Zhenchalin TeaTEA

(Zhenchalin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 13, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 21013 h10am-8.30pm; mDapuqiao)

From the entrance this looks like just another tea shop, but poke around inside and you’ll find specially blended herbal teas from Ayako, a traditional Chinese medicine–certified nutritionist. Peruse the hand-wrapped pu-erh teas, ceramic and crystal teaware and watercolour postcards of Shanghai while staff ply you with tiny cups of ginseng oolong to keep you lingering.

Shanghai CodeVINTAGE

(Shanghai Mima MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 9, Lane 274, Taikang Rd, Tianzifang; 2749 h2.30-9.30pm; mDapuqiao)

This kooky Tianzifang shop sells rows of vintage-style glasses frames, old alarm clocks and duffed-up old spectacles cases. Frames kick off from around ¥300.

La VieCLOTHING

(Sheng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6445 3585; Tianzifang, The Yard, No 7, Lane 210, Taikang Rd; 210713 h10.30am-8.30pm; mDapuqiao)

Local designer Jenny Ji has made a name for herself with her stylish take on street fashion, including patterned jeans and nicely cut shirts, and clothing blending art deco glamour with traditional Chinese charms. None of it comes cheap, though: even the T-shirts go for a couple thousand yuan (¥). There are further shops at 306 Changle Road (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 306 Changle Road; 306 h1-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) and in Xintiandi Style (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; L 227, Xintiandi Style, 245 Madang Rd; 245 h10am-10pm).

Avocado LadyFOOD & DRINK

(Hongfengfu Shipin Shangdian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 274 South Wulumuqi Rd; 274 h5.30am-9.30pm; mChangshu Rd)

If the eye-watering prices levied by some Shanghai importers of foreign foods and fruits drives you round the bend, join the scrum (literally) of expats at this small vegetable shop on South Wulumuqi Rd. There’s fantastically priced bottles of wine piled up on the floor, avocados, mangoes, refrigerated imported cheeses, coffees, cereals and much more; it's crammed to the rafters with goods (and shoppers).

Colloquially, Shanghai shoppers call the owner the Avocado Lady, but her shop's Chinese name is Hongfengfu Shipin Shangdian.

Pottery WorkshopCERAMICS

(Letian Taoshe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.potteryworkshop.com.cn; Tianzifang, 220 Taikang Rd; 220 h10am-8pm; mDapuqiao)

Originally founded in Hong Kong, the Pottery Workshop is a community arts centre offering classes in ceramic design. The diverse creations of the workshop’s resident artists – including those in China’s ceramics capital Jingdezhen – are on display in this shop at the entrance to Tianzifang.

Annabel LeeACCESSORIES

(Anli Jiaju MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xintiandi North Block, Bldg 3; 1813 h10.30am-10.30pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)

Xintiandi branch of this local designer where you'll find an emphasis on cashmere and silk, and a fine collection of scarves, shawls and purses.

Shanghai TangCLOTHING

(Shanghai Tan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xintiandi North Block, Bldg 15; 18115 mSouth Huangpi Rd)

Hong Kong–based Shanghai Tang flies the flag for the Middle Kingdom in the world of high-end fashion. The designs are classic Chinese with a twist, incorporating fluorescent colours, traditional motifs and luxury fabrics such as silk and cashmere into the clothes and accessories. More affordable items include slinky tops and scarves, but if you have to ask the price of an item here, you probably can’t afford it.

Gift ZenGIFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zenlifestore.com; L130, Xintiandi Style, 245 Madang Rd; 245L130 h10am-10pm; mXintiandi)

Small but serene shop with a highly browse-worthy collection of design-led gift ideas with a modernist slant, including Frank Lloyd-Wright style bookmarks, pieces from the V&A and Tate Modern in London, MoMA in New York as well as some fabulous and eye-catching ceramics and cloisonne.

Shanghai TrioACCESSORIES, CLOTHING

(Shanghai Zuhe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Store 129, Xintiandi Style, 245 Madang Rd; 245129 h10am-10pm; mXintiandi)

Ravissant! C’est tout moi! French women go crazy for the chic ecofriendly fabrics here, which incorporate traditional Chinese motifs into much of the collection. Among the finds: cute children’s clothes, purses, scarves and quilt (duvet) covers. It’s located in the Xintiandi Style mall.

Shanghai Museum ShopGIFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 123 Taicang Rd; 123 h11am-7pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd)

A two-floor outpost of the excellent Shanghai Museum Art Store, with a choice selection of ceramics, calligraphy brushes, jade and other collectibles.

Simply LifeHOMEWARES

(Yiju Shenghuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6387 5100; Xintiandi North Block, Unit 101, 159 Madang Rd; 159101 h10.30am-10pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)

Upmarket household knick-knacks, including hand-painted teasets, crockery and pottery, all locally made.

HeirloomACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 78 Xinle Rd; 78 h10.30am-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Heirloom’s staple is a range of eye-catching, vibrant and stylish clutches, satchels and handbags, as well as smaller accessories such as leather wallets and bracelets. Prices range from ¥195 for a coin purse to around ¥4000.

Chouchou ChicCLOTHING

(Zhebindou Xiaotong Shenghuo Guan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chouchouchic.com; 164 South Shaanxi Rd; 164 mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

French Chinese hybrid Chouchou Chic sells kids’ clothes (up to age eight) that are infinitely cuter than what you find at the souvenir stalls. Most of the clothing is Western-style, but you can find some attractive floral-patterned fabrics and Chinese-style cotton dresses as well. Prices start at ¥148; the entrance is on Changle Rd.

100 Change & InsectSHOES

(Baibianchong MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 318 Nanchang Rd; 318 h10.30am-10.30pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Strange name, funky footwear, souped-up shoes – for those who want to add sparkle to their tootsies and have their heels seen in the dark . Browse Hong Kong designs blinged up with rhinestones, sequins, pink glitter, and silver and gold accents. There's another branch at 76 Xinle Rd (Baibianchong MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5404 0767; 76 Xinle Road; 76 h10.30am-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd). No English name on the door.

YunwuxinJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 142 Nanchang Rd; 142 h11am-9pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Drop by this incense-filled boutique to peruse the collection of handmade Tibetan-themed jewellery, fashioned from mother-of-pearl, red coral and turquoise.

PCS (Pop Classic Sneakers)SHOES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 130 Nanchang Rd; 130 h1-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

This tiny shoebox of a store has a fantastic collection of men’s canvas sneakers, all sold at unbeatable prices. Try on a pair of original Feiyue, Warrior or spruced-up Ospop worker boots.

Xi SuCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://xisushanghai.com; 425 Xintiandi Style, 245 Madang Rd; 245 h10am-10pm; mXintiandi)

Delighfully elegant, diaphanous and light women's clothing in a mix of classical Chinese and traditional lines.

Huayang NianhuaCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 145 South Maoming Rd; 145 h11am-9pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Huayang Nianhua takes its name from the Chinese title of the smouldering Wong Kar Wai movie In the Mood for Love, which featured Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung in an array of stunning qipao (figure-hugging Chinese dresses). Fittingly, you can get fine tailor-made qipao here from ¥1200, but there’s no guarantee you’ll look like Ms Cheung once you slip one on.

Garden BooksBOOKS

(Taofen Xiwen Shuju MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 325 Changle Rd; 325 h10am-10pm; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

The ice-cream parlour occupies about as much space as its well-stocked bookshelves. For all those Penguin paperback, gelato-to-go moments.

ThingCLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 276 Changle Rd; 276 h10am-9pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Shanghai urbanwear specialists: hoodies, messenger bags, shoes and Chinglish T-shirts.

Apple StoreELECTRONICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hong Kong Plaza North Block, 282 Middle Huaihai Rd; 282 h10am-10pm; W; mSouth Huangpi Rd)

Stop by the Genius Bar for advice or troubleshooting, get online or browse the latest wonders of the tech world in this two-floor (genuine) Apple outlet.

Fo GuangARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 594 South Shaanxi Rd; 594 h11am-8pm; mJiashan Rd)

Permeated with the aroma of incense and sedated by Buddhist music, this tiny shop has an abundance of Tibetan Buddhist mystery: statuettes, dorjes (ritual objects; from ¥400), purbhas (ritual daggers), jade amulets, pendants, bracelets and other accoutrements. The name literally means 'Light of the Buddha'.

Xingguang Photography EquipmentPHOTOGRAPHY

(Xingguang Sheying Qicai Cheng GOOGLE MAP ; 288 Luban Rd; 288 h7am-7pm; mDapuqiao, Luban Rd)

There are three main floors of photography equipment here. While prices vary (you need to bargain; no guarantees) there are some good buys awaiting among the cameras, lenses, tripods and bags. A real find is Shen-Hao on the 4th floor, which sells its hard-to-find field cameras. There's a repair shop on the 3rd floor.

Ye Huo Huwai Yongpin DianOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 296 Changle Rd; 296 h10.30am-10pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

A great stop for outdoor gear. Osprey packs and Vasque boots are available, in addition to quality Gore-Tex clothing, tents and sleeping bags.

La FormaggeriaFOOD

(Fu Lai Ma Ji Ya MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vivishanghai.com/shop; 434 South Shaanxi Rd; 434 h10am-9pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

This piccolo Italian cheese shop is at hand for all your crucial mozzarella, Gran Moravia, Grana Padano and mascarpone needs.

LomographyPHOTOGRAPHY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lomography.com; 126 Jinxian Rd; 126 hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Analogue camera and film buffs will enjoy this shop ranging over multiple floors with bundles of photographic accessories, a big range of film (colour, slide, black-and-white and infrared), lenses, nondigital cameras, bags, hoodies, cotton T-shirts and more.

TEA TASTING

It may be a rather cliched choice, but there’s no doubt that a Yixing teapot and a package of oolong tea makes for a convenient gift. But how do you go about a purchase? Two things to remember: first of all, be sure to taste (pinchang) and compare several different teas – flavours vary widely, and there’s no point in buying a premium grade if you don’t like it. Tasting is free (mianfei) and fun, but it’s good form to make some sort of purchase afterwards. Second, tea is generally priced by the jin (500g), which may be more tea than you can finish in a year. Purchase several liang (50g) instead – divide the list price by 10 for an idea of the final cost. Some of the different types of tea for sale include oolong (wulong), green (lu), flower (hua) and pu-erh (pu’er) – true connoisseurs have a different teapot for each type of tea.

Try the following stores:

Huifeng Tea Shop (Huifeng Chazhuang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6472 7196; 124 South Maoming Rd; 124 h9am-9.30pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Yanye Mingcha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 170 Fumin Rd, 170 h8am-10pm; mJing’an Temple)

Tianshan Tea City

Zhenchalin Tea

7French Concession West

oNuoMiCLOTHING

(Nuomi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nuomishanghai.com; 196 Xinle Rd; 196 h11am-10pm; mChangshu Rd)

This Shanghai-based label seems to do everything right: gorgeous dresses made from organic cotton, silk and bamboo; eye-catching jewellery fashioned from recycled materials; a sustainable business plan that gives back to the community; and even an irresistible line of kids’ clothes.

oPilingpalangCERAMICS

(Pilingpalang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pilingpalang.com; 183 Anfu Rd; 183 mChangshu Rd)

Gorgeously coloured and trendy ceramics, cloisonne and lacquer, in pieces that celebrate traditional Chinese forms while adding a funky modern and deco-inspired slant.

oOOAK Concept BoutiqueJEWELLERY

(OOAKOOAK Shejishi Pinpai Gainiandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theooak.com; 124 Taiyuan Rd; 124 h11am-9pm; mJiashan Rd, Hengshan Rd)

Tall and skinny OOAK ('One of a Kind') has three floors of inspiring jewellery; catchy and attractive modern clothing for women; and bags and shoes from a host of talented big-name and aspiring independent designers from Europe and far flung parts of the globe.

oLolo Love VintageVINTAGE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Yongfu Rd; 2 hnoon-10pm; mShanghai Library, Changshu Rd)

There's rock and roll on the stereo and a huge white rabbit, stuffed peacock and plastic cactus outside at this whacky shrine to vintage 1940s and '50s glad rags, behind the blue steel door on Yongfu Rd. It’s stuffed with frocks, blouses, tops, shoes, brooches and sundry togs spilling from hangers, shelves and battered suitcases.

There’s a lovely garden out the front, where an old worn sofa sits.

XinleLu.comCLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xinlelu.com; 87 Wuyuan Rd; 87 hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun; mChangshu Rd)

Local style mavens XinleLu.com have ventured out into the offline world with this original showroom, displaying the best of their hand-picked bags, shoes and dresses from local designers.

Brocade CountryHANDICRAFTS

(Jinxiu Fang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 616 Julu Rd; 616 h10am-7.30pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Peruse an exquisite collection of minority handicrafts from China’s southwest, most of which are secondhand (ie not made for the tourist trade) and personally selected by the owner Liu Xiaolan, a Guizhou native. Items for sale include embroidered wall hangings (some of which were originally baby carriers), sashes, shoes and hats, as well as silver jewellery.

The butterfly, a homonym for ‘mother’ in the Miao language, is a popular motif.

Ba Yan Ka LaBEAUTY

(Ba Yan Ka La MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bayankala.com; 1221 Changle Rd; 1221 h10am-9pm; mChangshu Rd)

Taking its name from the Tibetan mountain range that separates the Yellow and Yangzi watersheds, Ba Yan Ka La offers a line of natural beauty products derived from Chinese herbs. Goji berry (skin revitalisation), lotus seed (skin nourishment) and mulberry (detoxification) are all familiar ingredients in traditional Chinese medicine, and match well with Ba Yan Ka La’s natural elegance.

The scented candles, shampoos, Tibetan (crystal of wisdom) bath salts and facial scrubs can also be found in several hotels around town.

ParamitaHANDICRAFTS

(Boluomiduo Xizang Gongyipin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6248 2148; 850-851 Julu Rd; 850-1 mChangshu Rd, Jing’an Temple)

If you can’t make it to Tibet, at least swing by Paramita for its inspiring collection of souvenirs, including yak-bone amulets, masks, jewellery, framed mandalas and other Buddhist treasures from the Himalayas. It’s a nonprofit organisation, founded to help Tibetans with minimal education find employment.

IAPM MallMALL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 999 Middle Huaihai Rd; 999 h10am-11pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

There are top names (Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Prada) in this high-end mall, but it's worth a look for the spectacular and well-considered interior design alone.

Madame Mao’s DowryCLOTHING, SOUVENIRS

(Maotai Sheji MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5403 3551; madamemaosdowry.com; 207 Fumin Rd; 207 h10am-7pm; mJing’an Temple)

What better way to brighten up your hall than with a bust of chairman Mao? Or a poster of jubilant socialist workers? Beyond the Cultural Revolution paintings and prints, there's a collection of locally designed clothing and jewellery and some fantastic cards.

Pottery WorkshopCERAMICS

(Letian Taoshe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.potteryworkshop.com.cn; 176 Fumin Rd; 176 h10am-8pm; mJing’an Temple)

A retail shop from Shanghai’s community ceramics centre.

Urban TribeCLOTHING

(Chengshi Shanmin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 133 West Fuxing Rd; 133 mShanghai Library)

Urban Tribe draws inspiration from the ethnic groups of China and Southeast Asia. The collection of loose-fitting blouses, pants and jackets are made of natural fabrics, and are a refreshing departure from the city’s on-the-go attitude and usual taste for flamboyance. Don’t miss the collection of silver jewellery, nor the lovely tea garden behind the store.

Culture MattersSHOES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Dongping Rd; 15 h1-9pm; mHengshan Rd, Changshu Rd)

Sneaker freaks should stop by this small Dongping Rd shop to ogle its fine selection of funky Feiyue and Warrior trainers.

Mayumi SatoCLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mayumisato.com; 169 Anfu Rd; 169 h10am-7pm; mChangshu Rd)

Japanese designer Mayumi Sato uses organic cotton, silk and wool to create a playful collection of limited-edition skirts, dresses and tops. Nothing is mass produced, and off-cuts are recycled into her line of signature accessories.

Simply LifeHOMEWARES

(Yiju Shenghuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Dongping Rd; 9 h10.30am-10.30pm; mChangshu Rd)

A branch of the local home-furnishings store, with neat and stylish household knick-knacks and ceramics.

Propaganda Poster Art CentreARTS & CRAFTS, SOUVENIRS

(Shanghai Xuanchuanhua Yishu Zhongxin MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 0184 1246, 6211 1845; Rm B-OC, 868 Huashan Rd; 868B-OC admission ¥20; h10am-5pm; mShanghai Library)

If socialist art is your thing, check out this gallery, which houses a huge collection of propaganda posters. Increasingly prized by collectors, some posters are very rare and prices are correspondingly high.

Spoiled BratJEWELLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.spoiledbratjewelry.com; No 6, Lane 123, Yanqing Rd; 1236 h11am-8pm; mChangshu Rd)

This bijou shop sells a fine selection of exquisite jewellery pieces styled with refinement and an understated, classical temperament.

Kava KavaFURNITURE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kavakavahome.com; 810 Julu Rd; 810 h10am-6pm; mJing'an Temple)

Seriously good-looking modern but traditionally styled lacquer cabinets, chairs, tables and cabinets.

Parsons MusicMUSIC

(Baisi Qinhang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Fenyang Rd; 16 mChangshu Rd, South Shaanxi Rd)

All your musical instrument needs are met at this professional store near the Shanghai Conservatory of Music. You'll find mouth organs to pipa (lute), erhu (two-stringed fiddle), guzheng (zither), trumpets, violins, flutes and pianos – brand new and some secondhand. This section of Fenyang Rd is stuffed with small music shops – hunt around and you can pick up fantastically cheap, quality handmade violins.

Happy ClayCERAMICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Donghu Rd; hnoon-9pm Tue-Sun; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Small shop displaying fun, wonky and naively fashioned handmade ceramic pieces; it's at the end of the alley by ElEfante.

BEST SHOPPING STRIPS

Looking for the best spots in Shanghai's French Concession to wander and window-shop? Around the South Shaanxi Rd metro station there are a few blocks that are a must for serious clothes shoppers. Afternoons and evenings are the best hours for browsing: some smaller shops don’t open their doors until noon, but most stay open until 10pm.

Nanchang Road A good street for general browsing, with shoes, antiques, and men’s and women’s clothing.

Changle Road Young designers and emerging local brands have taken over a one-block stretch of Changle Rd east of Ruijin No 1 Rd. Check out La Vie, Thing, Eblis Hungi (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 139-18, Changle Rd; hnoon-10pm) and Even Penniless (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 139, Changle Rd) to see where local fashion is headed.

Xinle Road This two-block stretch has less-high-end fashion than Changle Rd but ultimately greater variety. Pop into Heirloom, 100 Change & Insect, Source (MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 158, Xinle Rd) and NuoMi for a taste of the ‘Hai’s urban style.

South Maoming Road South of Huaihai Rd you'll find custom-tailored traditional women’s clothing (such as the qipao; figure-hugging Chinese dress); north of Huaihai Rd there's tailored men’s suits and dress shoes.

2Sports & Activities

oDouble Rainbow Massage HouseMASSAGE

(Shuang Caihong Baojian Anmo Ting MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 45 Yongjia Rd; 45 massage ¥68; hnoon-midnight; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Perhaps Shanghai’s best neighbourhood massage parlour. The visually impaired masseuses here will have you groaning in agony in no time as they seek out those little visited pressure points. It's ¥68 for a 45-minute foot or back massage.

Subconscious Day SpaMASSAGE

(Sangke Shuiliao Huisuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6415 0636; www.subconsciousdayspa.com; 183 Fumin Rd; 183 massage per 60/90 minutes ¥150/225; h10am-midnight; mChangshu Rd, Jing’an Temple)

The scent of lemongrass fills the air as you enter this serene ecofriendly spa. A veritable centre for mind-body rejuvenation, Subconscious offers an array of traditional massages, from tuina (traditional) and hot-stone to Thai, as well as six-person yoga classes, nutrition counselling and beauty treatments such as manicures and waxing.

DragonflyMASSAGE

(Youting Baojian Huisuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5403 9982; www.dragonfly.net.cn; 206 Xinle Road; 206 massage per 60 mins ¥188; h10am-2am; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

One of the longest-running massage services in Shanghai, the soothing Dragonfly offers Chinese body massages, foot massages and Japanese-style shiatsu in addition to more specialised services such as aroma oil massages and beauty treatments. Prices include a private room and a change of clothes. Book ahead.

Green MassageMASSAGE

(Qinglai Yangshen MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5386 0222; www.greenmassage.com.cn; 58 Taicang Rd; 58 massages & spa treatments ¥198-318; h10.30am-2am; mSouth Huangpi Rd)

Calming fragrances envelop guests at this plush midrange spa, which offers foot, tuina (traditional) and shiatsu massages. In addition to traditional practices such as cupping and moxibustion, it also provides waxing and other beauty treatments. Reserve.

Longwu Kung Fu CenterMARTIAL ARTS

(Longwu Gongfu Guan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6287 1528; www.longwukungfu.com; 1 South Maoming Rd; 1 1-/2-/3-month lesson ¥100/450/700; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Hone your rusty Wing Chun bong sao, brush up on your Taekwondo poomsae or simply learn a few taichi moves to help slip aboard the bus at rush hour. The largest centre in the city, it also offers children’s classes on weekend mornings and lessons in English.

Wuyi Chinese Kungfu CentreMARTIAL ARTS

(Wuyi Guoshu Guan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %137 0168 5893; Room 311, 3rd fl, International Artists’ Factory, No 3, Lane 210, Taikang Rd; 21033311 mDapuqiao)

English-language taichi classes on Thursdays and Sundays and wushu (martial arts) classes on Wednesdays and Sundays for adults and kids. Call for the latest schedules and prices.

TRADITIONAL CHINESE MASSAGE

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Qing-dynasty barbers developed the current form of Chinese massage, known as tuina (literally push-grab). In addition to cutting hair, skilled barbers learned to use acupressure points to treat different ailments and the practice, which was cheaper, less painful and safer than acupuncture, soon became quite popular – even late Qing emperors employed tuina masseurs. In 1822, the Daoguang emperor decried acupuncture as unsafe and banned the practice, helping tuina to secure its position as an integral part of Chinese medical treatment.

The general idea behind Chinese massage is that it stimulates your qi (vital energy that flows along different pathways or meridians, each of which is connected to a major organ) and removes energy blockages, through which you can treat specific ailments, from muscular and joint pain to the common cold.

Interestingly, the hairdresser-massage association is still quite common in China, though the roles have again changed: many businesses that advertise themselves as hairdressers are now nothing more than brothels, with rows of young girls seated beneath lurid pink lighting waiting to provide ‘massage services’ to their clients. This doesn’t mean that tuina has disappeared – getting a real massage has never been easier, and in Shanghai, they come at a fraction of the price you’d pay at home.