4Sleeping

There's never been a better time to find a bed in Shanghai. From ultrachic, carbon-neutral boutique rooms to sumptuous five-star hotels housed in glimmering towers, grand heritage affairs and snappy, down-to-earth backpacker haunts, the range of accommodation in town is just what you would expect from a city of this stature.

Book Your Stay Online

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

Hotels

Top-end stays tend to drop into three categories: trendy boutique hotels; historic heritage hotels, where guests can wrap themselves in nostalgia; and top-of-the-range modern tower hotels, bristling with the latest amenities and sparkling with highly polished service (and often glorious views).

The midrange hotel market also offers boutique and heritage choices. The budget end has neat, comfortable but largely soulless express hotels, sometimes offering bigger rooms than hostels, but without the Western-friendly facilities or instant language skills.

Be prepared for surprisingly rudimentary English-language ability, except at the very best hotels (and youth hostels). Almost all the hotels we recommend have air-conditioning, and usually have wi-fi (sometimes at expensive daily rates or just in the lobby) or broadband.

Treat star rankings in Shanghai with a raised eyebrow. Some Shanghai hotels have secured five-star rankings, despite having no swimming pool.

Hostels

At the budget end, Shanghai has a good crop of youth hostels. Usually staffed by versatile English speakers, they offer well-priced dorm beds and private rooms (sometimes better than their hotel equivalent) as well as wi-fi, communal internet terminals, bike rental, kitchen and laundry rooms, and even the odd pool table, table tennis or rooftop garden. Most have small and cheap bar-cafe-restaurant areas. Hostels also provide handy travel advice to guests and are exclusively attuned to travellers' needs.

Rates

Expect discounts of up to 50% off standard prices at most hotels, except during national holiday periods or the Formula One grand prix weekend. Rates can be bargained down at many budget and midrange hotels, but not at express hotels or hostels. All hotel rooms are subject to a 10% or 15% service charge; many cheaper hotels don’t bother to charge it.

Dorm beds go for around ¥50 or ¥55, but double rooms under ¥200 can be hard to find. Expect to pay at least ¥500 for a midrange room. The fancier boutique hotels will charge more. A standard room in a top-end place will almost certainly top ¥1000, even after discount. Many of the better hotels, especially those aimed at business travellers, have cheaper weekend rates.

Longer-Term Rentals

The cheapest way to stay in Shanghai is to share a flat or rent local accommodation from a Chinese landlord. Classified ads in listings magazines such as City Weekend (www.cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai) are a good place to start. You will need to register with the local Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gong'anju) within 24 hours of moving in.

Some hostels and hotels also rent out long-let rooms. Chai Living Residences is a stylish and recommended option.

Need to Know

Price Ranges

The following represent the price per night of an en-suite double room in high season:

$ less than ¥500

$$ ¥500–1300

$$$ more than ¥1300

Reservations

AReserve ahead, especially during high season.

AOnline agencies CTrip and eLong are handy for reservations.

ALonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/shanghai/hotels) Offers bookings.

Checking In & Out

AYou need your passport to check in. You'll fill in a registration form, or the hotel may simply scan your passport, a copy of which is sent to the local Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gong’anju) office.

AA deposit is required at most hotels, paid either with cash or by providing credit-card details.

ACheck-out is usually midday.

Hotel Terms

The Chinese term for a hotel can vary. Many smaller, midrange hotels are called binguan ('guest house'), while larger hotels are often called jiudian ('wine shop'), dajiudian ('big wine shop') or less commonly dafandian ('big restaurant').

Lonely Planet’s Top Choices

Fairmont Peace Hotel The grand dame of the Bund: restored, revitalised and renewed.

Astor House Hotel Classic old-Shanghai heritage and a mere foxtrot from the Bund.

Magnolia Bed & Breakfast An exquisite French Concession bijou, with only five rooms.

Waterhouse at South Bund Swish and supercool boutique style with views to match.

Best by Budget

$

Le Tour Traveler’s Rest Fabulous youth hostel facilities combined with old Shanghai textures in a former towel factory.

Mingtown E-Tour Youth Hostel Supercentral, traditional charms and fab split-level lounge.

Mingtown Nanjing Road Youth Hostel Pretty much all your budget needs met, one step from the action.

$$

Marvel Hotel One of Shanghai's best midrange hotels, in a historic building and pole-position for People's Sq.

Kevin’s Old House French Concession charmer, full of traditional-style elegance.

$$$

Peninsula Hotel For full-on pampering, lovely river views and exclusive surrounds.

Waldorf Astoria Home of the Long Bar, the Waldorf is classic Shanghai all the way.

Mandarin Oriental Pudong For sumptuous stays and outstanding service in Pudong.

Best Boutique Hotels

Le Sun Chine Fine French Concession mansion exuding yesteryear elegance.

Urbn Nifty, carbon-neutral hotel with a trendy, urban mood.

88 Xintiandi Stylish studios, all mod-cons, fab locale.

Best B&Bs

Quintet Another reason to bed down in the French Concession.

Kevin’s Old House The three C's: charming, comfortable, competitively priced.

Best Historic Hotels

Fairmont Peace Hotel Shanghai's premier art deco classic, revitalised and restored.

Waldorf Astoria Prestigious and grand, in the former Shanghai Club on the Bund.

Astor House Hotel Steeped in the sensations of Concession-era Shanghai.

Best for Views

Park Hyatt Awesome panoramas, as standard.

Ritz-Carlton Shanghai Pudong Beyond the knockout design, the views are breathtaking.

Peninsula Hotel Five-star views.

4Where to Stay

4The Bund & People’s Square

oMingtown E-Tour Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Mingtang Shanghai Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6327 7766; 57 Jiangyin Rd; 57 dm ¥50, d without/with bathroom ¥160/260, tw ¥240; aiW; mPeople’s Sq)

One of Shanghai's best youth hostels, E-tour has fine feng shui, a historic alleyway setting and pleasant rooms. But it’s the tranquil courtyard with fish pond and the superb split-level bar-restaurant with comfy sofas that really sell it, plus there's a free pool table and plenty of outdoor seating on wooden decking.

There are both women-only and mixed dorms.

oMingtown Nanjing Road Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Mingtang Shanghai Nanjing Lu Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6322 0939; 258 Tianjin Rd; 258 dm ¥50, s ¥150, d ¥200-270, tr ¥250; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This sociable and friendly Mingtown hostel is located halfway between the Bund and People’s Sq, a short hop from the nearest metro station. The six-bed dorms each have a private bathroom, laminated wood flooring and simple particle-board decor; perks include laundry, a kitchen, ground-floor bar-restaurant, a DVD room and a pool table.

Mingtown Hiker Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Mingtang Shanghai Luxingzhe Qingnian Luguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6329 7889; 450 Middle Jiangxi Rd; 450 dm without/with window ¥50/55, s/d ¥160/220; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This justifiably popular hostel is just a short stroll from the famous esplanade, on the southern corner of the grand old Hengfeng Building. It offers tidy four- and six-bed dorms with pine bunk beds and clean communal shower facilities, plus decent private rooms, including cheapies with shared bathrooms.

There’s a pool table, movies, a bar-restaurant and a useful noticeboard in the lobby. Wi-fi in the lobby only.

Blue Mountain BundHOSTEL

(Lanshan Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3366 1561; www.bmhostel.com; 6th fl, 350 South Shanxi Rd; 3506 dm ¥55-70, d ¥160-260, tr ¥290, q ¥340; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This hostel gets kudos for its central location – a short hop to the East Nanjing Rd metro station and not much further to the Bund or People’s Sq. Eight-bed dorms are a bit small and the cheapest standard rooms have no window, but the staff is friendly and there’s a decent bar and common area with a pool table, plus a colossal outside terrace.

There are also four- and six-bed dorms. Prices are slightly higher in August.

Fish Inn BundHOTEL

(Ziyuju MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3330 1399; www.fishinn.com.cn; 639 Middle Henan Rd; 639 W; mEast Nanjing Rd or Tianlong Rd)

With a handy location around a 10 minute walk from the Bund and East Nanjing Rd, this friendly little place has decent rooms, although they are a bit dark. Deluxe rooms come with balcony/patio, however. The staff is eager to please and the tariff is excellent value for the hotel's positioning. Some rooms have steps up to the bed area.

There are suites for more room and comfort.

Home InnHOTEL

(Rujia Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6323 9966; www.homeinns.com; Lane 26, Sijing Rd; 26 d ¥219-379, tr ¥399; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Housed in a delightful longtang (lane), overhung with laundry and accessed from Sijing Rd, this is one of the better branches of the dependable Home Inn chain. The pastel interior may not be everyone's cup of cha, but it means clean, functional rooms are nice and bright.

PhoenixHOSTEL

(Laoshan Kezhan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6328 8680; www.thephoenixshanghai.com; 15-17 South Yunnan Rd; 17 dm ¥55, s ¥198, d ¥230-258; aiW; mDashijie)

Although decorated with slapdash graffiti, this place has clean and bright rooms and the staff is jolly. Dorms sleep eight people; there's a rooftop bar; and the ground-floor Shaanxi dumpling restaurant adds to the appeal. Good location close to People’s Sq. Bike rental costs ¥60 per day.

Captain HostelHOSTEL

(Chuanzhang Qingnian Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6323 5053; 37 Fuzhou Rd; 37 dm ¥75, r from ¥358; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Despite being hands-down the least friendly youth hostel in Shanghai, this naval-themed backpackers' favourite still reels in punters with its fantastic location and decent rooftop bar. There’s a microwave, washing machine and lobby cafe, but all bathrooms are communal. Wi-fi is in the communal area only.

Motel 168HOTEL

(Motai Liansuo Luguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5153 3333; www.motel168.com; 531 East Jinling Rd; 531 r ¥309-359; ai; mDashijie)

Pricier rooms come with computer at this handy branch of Motel 168, sharing space with a branch of Home Inn. It rarely lifts itself above the functional, but this is all about location and value. English levels at reception can misfire. For discounts at any of this chain’s branches, buy a ¥99 lifetime members’ card (huiyuan ka).

Motel 268HOTEL

(Motai Liansuo Luguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5179 3333; www.motel168.com; 50 Ningbo Rd; 50 d ¥339, tr ¥419; aiW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This refurbished choice is good value. Modern doubles feature huge beds, wood-trimmed furnishings and smartly tiled chrome and glass bathrooms. But when push comes to shove, it's all about location. And for an extra ¥50 you get a room with its own PC. The only quibble: wafer-thin walls mean you need to be lucky with your neighbours.

Jinjiang InnHOTEL

(Jinjiang Zhixing Luguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6326 0505; www.jinjianginns.com; 33 South Fujian Rd; 33 d ¥349; a; mDashijie)

This central hotel, which looks like it may have struck a deal with Ikea (think cream bedding, pine-coloured furniture and laminated wood flooring), has bright, spacious, functional twins and doubles with TVs, kettles, broadband and clean shower rooms.

Jinjiang InnHOSTEL

(Jinjiang Zhixing MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jinjianginns.com; 680 East Nanjing Rd; 680 d from ¥300; aiW; mPeople's Sq)

Located in the former Shanghai Sincere Department Store (which opened in 1917), the erstwhile East Asia Hotel has been grabbed by the folk at Jinjiang Inn and re-presented with smartish rooms with showers. It’s often booked out due to its prime location.

oMarvel HotelHOTEL

(Shangyue Qingnianhui Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3305 9999; www.marvelhotels.com.cn; 123 South Xizang Rd; 123 d ¥1080-1280, ste ¥1580; aiW; mDashijie)

Occupying the former YMCA building (1931) just south of People’s Sq, the Marvel is one of the city’s better midrange hotels. Beyond the chintzy corridors, the brown and cream rooms offer a reassuring degree of style. The building resembles Beijing's Southeast Corner Watchtower (although the blurb compares it to Qianmen), with a traditional hammerbeam ceiling.

The lobby is somnolent and dim, but the central location and modern comforts makes it one of Shanghai’s best-value hotels. Online discounts can slash room rates in half.

Sofitel Hyland HotelHOTEL

(Suofeite Hailun Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6351 5888; www.sofitel.com; 505 East Nanjing Rd; 505 d ¥1150-2110; aW; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Rising up halfway along East Nanjing Rd, the Sofitel is a solid choice for those insisting on location without breaking the bank. The uncluttered and cool lobby area is dominated by open space and geometric lines. Standard rooms are rather dated, with a crisper and more modern finish in the executive rooms.

Facilities include a spa, two restaurants, a bar and a French bakery.

Central Hotel ShanghaiHOTEL

(Wangbaohe Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0400 155-5008; www.centralhotelshanghai.com; 555 Jiujiang Rd; 555 d from ¥850; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This hotel has a choice location at the heart of the action just south of East Nanjing Rd. It offers good value for travellers who don't want to go totally overboard but require comfort and convenience. Doubles are pleasant and well done, if rather unsurprising, with smallish bathrooms. Discounts add good value to the equation.

Food in the hotel's restaurants is OK (the breakfast is good), but with so many great restaurants nearby you're spoiled for choice – so eat out.

Park HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Guoji Fandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6327 5225; http://park.jinjianghotels.com; 170 West Nanjing Rd; 170 s ¥850, d ¥1350-1450, ste ¥2700-6500; a; mPeople’s Sq)

The Park Hotel is one of Shanghai’s most famous art deco heritage spots with a positively supreme location, but it remains stuck in an old-fashioned groove like a scratched record. Staff members are friendly, though, and 10% discounts are common.

Pacific HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Jinmen Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6327 6226; http://pacific.jinjianghotels.com; 108 West Nanjing Rd; 108 d ¥988-1988; a; mPeople’s Sq)

Capped by a distinctive clock tower, this historic hotel built in 1926 is strong on both character and style. The neoclassical entrance leads to a marble lobby with attractive ceiling artwork and wood-trimmed corridors with deep-red carpets. The cheaper rooms at the back of the hotel are distinctly dated, but the ones overlooking People’s Park have nicer furniture and more space.

oFairmont Peace HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Fei’ermeng Heping Fandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6321 6888; www.fairmont.com; 20 East Nanjing Rd; 20 d ¥2300-3800; naWs; mEast Nanjing Rd)

If anywhere in town fully conveys swish 1930s Shanghai, it’s the old Cathay, rising imperiously from the Bund. Renamed the Peace Hotel in the 1950s and reopened in 2010 after a protracted renovation, it’s reaffirmed its position as one of the city’s most iconic hotels. Rooms are decked out in art deco elegance, from light fixtures down to coffee tables.

The entire hotel is cast in the warm, subdued tints of a bygone era. Expect all the luxuries of a top-class establishment, though note that wi-fi and broadband access cost an extra ¥99 per day for guests. Standard rooms come without a view, deluxe rooms with a street view and suites with the coveted river view. The hotel is also home to a luxury spa, two upscale restaurants and several bars and cafes. Even if you’re not staying here, it’s worth popping in to admire the magnificent lobby (1929), or taking in an evening show at the jazz bar.

oPeninsula HotelLUXURY HOTEL

(Bandao Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2327 2888; www.peninsula.com; 32 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 32 d/ste ¥2800/5400; aiWs; mEast Nanjing Rd)

This spiffing hotel at the Bund’s northern end combines art deco motifs with Shanghai modernity. It’s a grade above many other market rivals, with TVs in the tub, well-equipped dressing rooms (with fingernail driers), valet boxes for dirty clothes, Nespresso machines and fabulous views across the river or out onto the gardens of the former British consulate. Lacquer fittings in rooms create a sumptuous, yet restrained, elegance.

Part of the Rockbund development project, it includes an enormous luxury shopping arcade on the ground floor, and a back entrance that leads to the beautifully renovated Yuanmingyuan Rd.

oWaldorf AstoriaLUXURY HOTEL

(Huaer Daofu Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6322 9988; www.waldorfastoriashanghai.com; 2 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 2 d/ste ¥3100/4600; aiWs; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Grandly marking the southern end of the Bund is the former Shanghai Club (1910), once the Bund’s most exclusive gentlemen’s hang-out. The 20 original rooms here have been reconverted to house the Waldorf Astoria’s premium suites, six of which look out onto the Huangpu River. Behind this heritage building is a new hotel tower, with 252 state-of-the-art rooms.

Each room features touch digital controls, espresso machine, walk-in closet and even a TV in the mirror.

There’s a pronounced New York–meets-Shanghai theme here, from the Peacock Lounge to the cocktail list at the Long Bar.

Les Suites OrientLUXURY HOTEL

(Dongfang Shanglu Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6320 0088; www.lessuitesorient.com; 1 East Jinling Rd; 1 d ¥1900, with river view ¥2050, ste ¥2350, with river view ¥2500; aiWs; mYuyuan Garden)

Located at the southern edge of the Bund, Les Suites Orient is notable as the only hotel on the strip offering standard rooms (Bund Studio) with fantastic river and Bund vistas – in some rooms even the bathtub gets a view. It’s housed in a modern 23-storey tower, with hardwood floors and minimalist design adding to the appealingly chic interior. Excellent service.

JW Marriott Tomorrow Square LUXURY HOTEL

(JWMingtian Guangchang JW Wanhao Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5359 4969; www.jwmarriottshanghai.com; 399 West Nanjing Rd; 399 d from ¥2180; aWs; mPeople’s Sq)

Victor Sassoon probably would have traded in his old digs in a heartbeat if he could have stayed in the chairman’s suite here. Housed across the upper 24 floors of one of Shanghai’s most dramatic towers, the JW Marriott boasts marvellously appointed rooms with spectacular vistas and showers with hydraulic massage functions to soak away the stress.

Service and facilities are top-class, with two pools (indoor and outdoor) and an excellent spa. Internet costs ¥120 (¥600 per week) a day for nonmembers.

Yangtze Boutique ShanghaiBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(Langting Yangzi Jingpin Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6080 0800; www.theyangtzehotel.com; 740 Hankou Rd; 740 d ¥1300-1800; aW; mPeople’s Sq)

Originally built in the 1930s, this art deco gem has been splendidly refurbished. In addition to period decor, rooms feature deep baths, glass-walled bathrooms (with Venetian blinds) and even tiny balconies – a rarity in Shanghai. Check out the sumptuous stained-glass oblong and recessed skylight in the lobby, above a deco-style curved staircase.

The worn carpet in the foyer and on the stairs points to a high volume of traffic and the hotel is frequently booked out. The hammam and sauna in the fabulous Chuan spa are complimentary for guests; breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant, Ciao. Wi-fi costs extra.

Grand Central Hotel ShanghaiHOTEL

(Shanghai Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.grandcentralhotelshanghai.com; 505 Jiujiang Rd; 505 s/d ¥2500/2600, ste ¥3300-43,000; Ws; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Grand and fresh, this is a superb choice. The effortlessly elegant lobby areas – with acres of softly burnished marble and a small forest of fairy-light flecked palm trees overlooked by verandah-style balconies – is a congenial prelude to ample and traditionally styled deluxe rooms, furnished to a high degree of comfort. Discounts are usually more than 50%.

Westin ShanghaiHOTEL

(Weisiting Dafandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6335 1888; www.starwoodhotels.com; 88 Middle Henan Rd; 88 d from ¥3150; aWs; mEast Nanjing Rd)

Rooms in the newer tower at the top-notch and ace-placed Westin are sleek and contemporary with capacious bathrooms, some with freestanding tubs; rooms in the older tower are the same price, but are a bit more tired and smaller. The signature Westin 'Heavenly Bed' is displayed prominently in the lobby, a picture of comfort. Service throughout is thoughtful and professional.

There’s a gym, a pool, a Thai-style spa and a tempting range of popular restaurants. Expect at least 50% discounts. Wi-fi is free; however, broadband costs ¥100 per night.

4French Concession

Blue Mountain Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Lanshan Guoji Qingnian Lushe GOOGLE MAP ; %6304 3938; www.bmhostel.com; 2nd fl, Bldg 1, 1072 Quxi Rd, French Concession East; 107212 dm ¥50-65, d ¥130-200, tr ¥240, q ¥280; aiW; mLuban Rd)

Although slightly out of the action, this excellent hostel is almost next door to Luban Rd metro station, so transport is sorted. Rooms are clean and simple with pine furniture and flooring, TV and kettle. There are women-only, men-only and mixed four-to-eight bed dorms, and there's a wi-fi-enabled bar-restaurant area with free pool table, free movie screenings and a kitchen with microwave.

There's also washing machines and even hairdryers and irons that you can borrow. Staff members speak English and are very friendly. Rooms are ever so slightly pricier in August.

Hanting HotelHOTEL

(Hanting Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5465 6633; www.htinns.com; 233 South Shaanxi Rd, French Concession East; 233 s ¥299, d from ¥339; aiW; mSouth Shaanxi Rd, Jiashan Rd)

Rooms are a bit small at this budget chain, but they are well kept. This place is all about its French Concession location, not too far from Yongkang Rd bar street. English is limited.

Yueyang HotelHOTEL

(Yueyang Shangwu Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6466 6767; 58 Yueyang Rd, French Concession West; 58 s ¥188, d ¥268-368; a; mHengshan Rd)

One of the best budget options in the French Concession that’s within easy walking distance of a metro station, Yueyang has well-kept spacious rooms with big double beds and laminated flooring. Shower rooms are clean and modern, although, annoyingly, the hot water isn’t always piping hot. Expect only small discounts, if any.

Motel 268HOTEL

(Motai Liansuo Ludian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5170 3333; www.motel168.com; 113 Sinan Rd, French Concession East; 113 d ¥279-329, ste ¥389; ai; mDapuqiao)

You can find decent enough rooms at this rather chipped and functional branch of Motel 268, which has a lift and friendly staff. The location on leafy Sinan Rd is ideally located for those wanting to explore the maze of charming alleyways known as Tianzifang. Note some rooms are windowless. English is limited.

oMagnolia Bed & BreakfastB&B

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 1794 0848; www.magnoliabnbshanghai.com; 36 Yanqing Rd, French Concession West; 36 r ¥702-1296; aiW; mChangshu Rd)

Opened by Miranda Yao of the cooking school The Kitchen at..., this cosy little five-room B&B is located in a 1927 French Concession home. It’s Shanghai all the way, with an art deco starting point followed by comfort and stylish design. While rooms are on the small side, they are high-ceilinged and bright. It's a true labour of love.

There are discounts for stays of seven nights or more. There's no front desk, so phone ahead before visiting.

oQuintetB&B

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6249 9088; www.quintet-shanghai.com; 808 Changle Rd, French Concession West; 808 d incl breakfast ¥850-1200; naW; mChangshu Rd)

This chic B&B has six beautiful double rooms in a 1930s townhouse that's not short on character. Some of the rooms are small, but each is decorated with style, incorporating modern luxuries such as large-screen satellite TVs and laptop-sized safes, with more classic touches such as wood-stripped floorboards and deep porcelain bathtubs.

Staff members sometimes get a BBQ going on the roof terrace and there’s an excellent restaurant on the ground floor. No sign – just buzz on the gate marked 808 and wait to be let in. Be aware there is no elevator.

oKevin’s Old HouseB&B

(Laoshiguang Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6248 6800; www.kevinsoldhouse.com; No 4, Lane 946, Changle Rd, French Concession West; 9464 ste ¥1180-1280; aW; mChangshu Rd)

Housed in a secluded 1927 four-storey French Concession villa, this lovely boutique hotel is an elegant yet affordable place to stay. Six suites are spread throughout the house, each decorated with care, featuring wooden floorboards, traditional Chinese furniture, stylish artwork and a few antiques. There's an upright piano in the entrance. Suites usually go for around ¥950.

Anting Villa HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Anting Bieshu Huayuan Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6433 1188; 46 Anting Rd, French Concession West; 46 r ¥1180-1380, ste ¥1580-5580; aW; mHengshan Rd)

On a quiet tree-lined street, this pleasant hotel shares its grounds with a 1936 colonial Spanish–style villa. It offers bright, comfortable rooms, with wi-fi and quality furniture including a chaise longue by the window. Some rooms have balconies and fine views over the lovely garden. Discounts of up to 40% are available.

Hilton HotelHOTEL

(Jing’an Xi’erdun Fandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6248 0000; www.hilton.com; 250 Huashan Rd, French Concession West; 250 r from ¥1300; mJing’an Temple)

A favourite with airline crews and tour groups, the Hilton’s standard rooms are a bit old-fashioned, but the deluxe versions – only ¥100 to ¥200 more – have had a modern refit, meaning more style (slick furniture, rainforest showers), more comfort (thick carpets, big beds) and better views. Broadband/wi-fi access costs ¥120/160 per day.

Hengshan Picardie HotelHOTEL

(Hengshan Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6437 7050; www.hengshanhotel.com; 534 Hengshan Rd, French Concession West; 534 d incl breakfast ¥1300; aiW; mHengshan Rd)

These former Picardie Apartments (1934) still boast impressive art deco charm, most noticeably in the fine exterior, the rectangular black-and-white floor pattern of the lobby and the 1930s touches throughout. Superior rooms are attractively styled with European-style decor and have character, but do try to get a corner room. The location is good, between Hengshan Rd and Xujiahui.

Donghu HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Donghu Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6415 8158; www.donghuhotel.com; 70 Donghu Rd, French Concession West; 70 d US$150-330; aW; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

Once the home of feared Shanghai gangster Du Yuesheng, the historic Donghu is divided into several areas and buildings, although only two of them house ordinary guestrooms. The first, an austere 1934 white concrete building, houses the better rooms, although their colour schemes leave a little to be desired. The second, newer building is an ugly, white-tiled affair across the road and has overpriced rooms with cheap carpets and tatty furnishings. Wi-fi in the lobby only. Discounts of up to 50% make this a reliable midrange option.

oLangham XintiandiLUXURY HOTEL

(Xintiandi Langting Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2330 2288; xintiandi.langhamhotels.com; 99 Madang Rd, French Concession East; 99 r/ste ¥1600/1840; aWs; mSouth Huangpi Rd)

Xintiandi has become a magnet for luxury hotels, and they don’t come much nicer than this one. Its 357 rooms all feature huge floor-to-ceiling windows, plenty of space to spread out in, and an attention to the minute details that make all the difference: Japanese-style wooden tubs in suites, heated bathroom floors, internet radio and white orchids.

Amenities include the lauded Cantonese restaurant Ming Court (with a surprisingly affordable business lunch and all-you-can-eat dim sum on the weekends), an indoor pool and the award-winning spa, Chuan.

oAndazLUXURY HOTEL

(Andashi Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2310 1234; http://shanghai.andaz.hyatt.com; 88 Songshan Rd, French Concession East; 88 r ¥1820-2820; aWs; mSouth Huangpi Rd)

Housed in a tower with retro ‘70s style windows, this fab hotel’s design-led lobby – a trendy pronouncement of metal latticework – suggests an art space, a sensation that persists when you hunt for the open-plan reception (it’s on the right). Along curving corridors, guestrooms are cool and modern, with sinks and bathtubs that glow in different colours and monumental flat-screen TVs.

With room design courtesy of Japanese interior designer Super Potato, all mod cons are operated by tablet, while views of Puxi or Pudong – depending on your choice – range out beyond curved and chunky windows. Discounts of up to 35% online.

oLe Sun ChineBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(Shen Gong Guan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5256 9977; www.lesunchine.com; No 6, Lane 1220, Huashan Rd, French Concession West; 12206 r ¥1980-4380; aWs; mJiaotong University)

Originally the home of the Sun family, this renovated 1932 mansion has become one of Shanghai’s most exclusive boutique properties. Seventeen personalised suites – decorated in a choice of four different colours on four floors – combine an antique-strewn style with all the modern comforts of home.

Relax in the Roman-style pool or steam bath before enjoying a Shanghainese banquet in the highly lauded restaurant. Service is exquisitely refined. You can usually reserve a room in the region of ¥1300.

o88 XintiandiBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(88 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5383 8833; www.88xintiandi.com; 380 South Huangpi Rd, French Concession East; 380 r from ¥1700; aW; mXintiandi, South Huangpi Rd)

This stylish boutique Xintiandi residence has 53 spacious studios, each decorated with red lamps and antique Chinese cabinets. The central feature of each room is the raised sleeping area, enclosed with curtains, but also noteworthy are the kitchenettes (including microwave) and the top-notch home entertainment system that boasts surround-sound speakers, DVD player and satellite TV.

A small health club overlooks the park; guests also enjoy complimentary access to the indoor pool at the nearby Langham Xintiandi.

Hengshan Moller VillaHISTORIC HOTEL

(Hengshan Male Bieshu Fandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6247 8881; www.mollervilla.com; 30 South Shaanxi Rd, French Concession East; 30 r from ¥1500, feature room ¥3800; aiW; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

With enough wood-panelling to level a substantial forest, this fairy-tale castle lookalike, built by Swedish businessman and horse-racing fanatic Eric Moller, is one of Shanghai’s unique buildings. There are parquet floors in the lobby and a lush garden in the back, while feature rooms are decorated with old Shanghai artwork and are well turned out with sumptuous bedding.

Cheaper rooms in the later No 2 extension block have rather small baths and don't put you in the main villa. A bronze horse stands over the spot where Moller is said to have buried his favourite nag.

InterContinental Shanghai Ruijin HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Shanghai Ruijin Zhouji Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6472 5222; www.ihg.com; 118 Ruijin No 2 Rd, French Concession East; 118 standard/executive d ¥1320/2310; aiW; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)

The InterContinental group has acquired this historic 238-guestroom garden estate, which includes Building No 1, a 1919 red-brick mansion and former residence of Benjamin Morris, one-time owner of North China Daily News. Dark-wood panelled corridors lead to enormous, pleasantly appointed rooms. The architecture and the park-like gardens are lovely. The staff's spoken English is fitful.

.

4Jing’an

oLe Tour Traveler’s RestHOSTEL

(Letu Jing’an Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6267 1912; www.letourshanghai.com; 319 Jiaozhou Rd; 319 dm ¥70, d ¥260-280, tr/q ¥360/360; aiW; mChangping Rd)

Housed in a former towel factory, this fabulous youth hostel leaves most others out to dry. You’ll pass a row of splendid shikumen (stone-gate houses) on your way down the alley to get here. The old-Shanghai textures continue once inside, with red-brick walls and reproduced stone gateways above doorways leading to simple but smart rooms and six-person dorms (shared bathrooms).

Double rooms are not very spacious, but they have flatscreen TVs and they're clean. Rooms are between ¥10 and ¥30 pricier on Fridays and Saturdays. The ground floor has a table tennis table, a pool table and wi-fi, all of which are free to use, and there’s a fine rooftop bar-restaurant with outdoor seating. Bicycles can also be rented here.

Down an alley off Jiaozhou Rd.

Soho People’s Square Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Suzhou Hepan Guoji Qingnian Lushe %5888 8817; 1307 South Suzhou Rd; 1307 dm without/with bathroom incl breakfast ¥60/70, d incl breakfast ¥238-298; aiW; mXinzha Rd)

Occupying a former warehouse along Suzhou Creek, this spacious hostel has high ceilings, painted murals on the walls and oodles of laid-back common space. It’s a bit out of the way, but only a five-minute walk from the Xinzha Rd metro station on line 1, which runs direct through People’s Sq and the French Concession. Laundry and some kitchen facilities available.

Jinjiang InnHOTEL

(Jinjiang Zhixing Luguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5213 8811; www.jinjianginns.com; 400 Xikang Rd; 400 s/d from ¥239/299; aW; mChangping Rd)

Rooms are in excellent shape at this bright and simple chain. Wi-fi in the lobby only. There are two branches in the Bund.

oUrbnBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5153 4600; www.urbnhotels.com; 183 Jiaozhou Rd; 183 r from ¥1500; a; mChangping Rd)

China’s first carbon-neutral hotel not only incorporates recyclable materials and low-energy products where possible, it also calculates its complete carbon footprint – including staff commutes and delivery journeys – and offsets it by donating money to environmentally friendly projects. Open-plan rooms are beautifully designed with low furniture and sunken living areas exuding space.

Bathtubs are in the bedroom rather than in the bathroom (and sometimes right next to the bed!), while grey slate tiling and textured surfaces gives this luxury boutique hotel a distinctly urban vibe. Check out the cool wall behind reception arranged with a mosaic of well-travelled suitcases.

PuliLUXURY HOTEL

(Puli Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3203 9999; www.thepuli.com; 1 Changde Rd; 1 d from ¥3880; aWs; mJing’an Temple)

With open-space rooms divided by hanging silk screens and an understated beige-and-mahogany colour scheme accentuated by the beauty of a few well-placed orchids, the Puli is an exquisite choice. The Zen calm and gorgeous design of this 26-storey hotel make another strong case for stylish skyscrapers. Book ahead for discounts of up to 60%.

Portman Ritz-CarltonHOTEL

(Boteman Lijia Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6279 8888; www.ritzcarlton.com; 1376 West Nanjing Rd; 1376 r from ¥4000; aiWs; mJing’an Temple)

Impeccable service, excellent facilities and a central location make this one of the best business hotels this side of the Huangpu River. While it lacks the gorgeous interior design and architectural pizzazz of Shanghai’s newest crop of five-star hotels, it’s nonetheless a first-rate luxury choice. Selling points include two 7th-floor pools, squash and tennis courts, and a gym.

The real reason for staying here, of course, is the business amenities and the surrounding Shanghai Centre, which has a medical clinic, excellent restaurants and consulates. Discounts can drop rates by as much as 60%.

4West Shanghai

Rock & Wood International Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Laomu Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3360 2361; No 278, Lane 615, Zhaohua Rd; 615278 dm ¥55-60, s ¥110, d ¥160-240; aW; mWest Yan'an Rd)

With a serene bamboo-edged pond in its courtyard, and a bright and inviting lounge and bar area, this is a smart and tranquil choice that sees a steady stream of travellers. Rooms and mixed dorms are clean and quiet; the deluxe double comes with four-poster bed; and the staff is welcoming. The cheapest single has shared shower room.

Pentahotel ShanghaiHOTEL

(Shanghai Beierte Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6252 1111; www.pentahotels.com; 1525 Dingxi Rd; 1525 d from ¥700; aiW; mZhongshan Park)

This young and sprightly hotel is built on a snappy design ethos: the reception doubles as a good-looking, cool cafe and bar; bright rooms are comfortable, boutique-style and modish without being lavish; prices are reasonable; and the emphasis is on practicality and zest. Backing it all up is a helpful staff and efficient management. The hotel is very near Zhongshan Park metro station.

New World Shanghai HotelHOTEL

(Shanghai Balichuntian Xinshijie Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6240 8888; www.shanghai.newworldhotels.com; 1555 Dingxi Rd; 1555 d from ¥988; aWs; mZhongshan Park)

Stylish and excellent value for money, this neat and tastefully presented hotel zeroes in on business travellers, but also appeals to visitors who want more bang for their buck. It seems far out in the west, but it's right by the Zhongshan Park (lines 2, 3 and 4) metro system for quick zips into the centre of things.

Rooms are spacious and modern, and the breakfast buffet is recommended. There's an outdoor swimming pool on the 15th floor and hotel dining options are sound.

Marriott Hotel HongqiaoHOTEL

(Wanhao Hongqiao Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6237 6000; www.marriott.com; 2270 Hongqiao Rd; 2270 r from ¥1024; aiWs; mLongxi Rd)

This Marriott is a reasonable choice if you’re doing business in the Hongqiao area. A grand lobby introduces guests to good all-around facilities that include a bright, semicircular swimming pool, tennis court, bar and a number of decent restaurants. While rooms themselves are basic and a bit dated, the rates are reasonable. Broadband in the standard rooms costs extra (¥120 per day).

Xijiao State Guest HouseHOTEL

(Xijiao Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6219 8800; www.hotelxijiao.com; 1921 Hongqiao Rd; 1921 r from ¥1168; as; mLongxi Rd)

This quiet spot, which has hosted guests as esteemed as Queen Elizabeth II and Mao Zedong, claims to be the largest garden hotel in Shanghai. Its 80 hectares include huge lawns, streams, mature trees and a large lake. Standard rooms are nothing special, but facilities include indoor and outdoor tennis courts, a delightful indoor pool and a gym.

HOTEL RESTRICTIONS

Astonishingly, the majority of hotels in China still do not accept foreigners. To be able to accept foreigners, hotels need to be registered with, and have approval from, the Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gong'anju) – the police. Most hotels in China do not have this authorisation, but select hotels do. This can be highly vexing for travellers, especially those who speak Chinese and who enjoy keeping away from tourist hotels. Hotels that are not allowed to house foreigners are often non-chain and much cheaper than the authorised choices, meaning foreigners are forced to spend more money on a room. To ask in Chinese if a hotel accepts foreigners, simply ask: (ni shou waiguoren ma)? We only recommend hotels that accept foreign guests.

4Old Town

oWaterhouse at South BundBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(Shuishe Shishang Sheji Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6080 2988; www.waterhouseshanghai.com; 1-3 Maojiayuan Rd, Lane 479, South Zhongshan Rd; 4791-3 d ¥1100-2800; aW; mXiaonanmen)

There are few cooler places to base yourself in Shanghai than this awfully trendy 19-room, four-storey South Bund converted 1930s warehouse right by the Cool Docks. Gazing out onto supreme views of Pudong (or into the crisp courtyard), the Waterhouse’s natty rooms (some with terrace) are swishly dressed. Service can be wanting, though, and it's isolated from the action.

Fittingly for this revived part of town, the ethos is industrial chic, so it best suits design-conscious guests. A lovely rooftop bar caps it all and trim ground-floor Table No 1 throws in culinary excellence.

Hotel IndigoHOTEL

(Yingdige Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelindigo.com; 585 East Zhongshan No 2 Rd; 585 aWs; mXiaonanmen)

With its quirkily designed lobby – chairs like birdcages; tree branches trapped in cascades of glass jars; sheets of metal riveted to the wall; modish, sinuously shaped furniture; and funky ceiling lights – towering Hotel Indigo is a stylish South Bund choice. Chic and playful guestrooms are about colourful cushions and whimsical designs, with lovely rugs and spotless bathrooms.

Note that accommodation either looks out onto the Old Town (so-so) or the river (stellar). Service is very helpful and the infinity pool is a dream. Regular discounts tame prices by up to 60%.

4Pudong

Beehome HostelHOSTEL

(Binjia Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5887 9801; www.beehome-hostel.com; Lane 490, No 210 Dongchang Rd; 490210 dm ¥65, tw/tr ¥258/298, d ¥290-360; aiW; mDongchang Rd)

If you have to live Pudong-side, this well-tended hostel is a leafy and homely oasis in an otherwise innocuous housing estate. It offers basic but clean rooms, all with private bathrooms (even the dorms), and excellent communal areas – a bar-restaurant, a balcony seating area and a cute, tree-shaded courtyard garden.

There’s wi-fi throughout, a laundry room, kitchen and bar. The hostel is tricky to find as there’s no English sign on the road – it’s through the first gate past the China Post (Zhongguo Youzheng) office as you walk west, through a wooden gateway marked (Dongyuan Xincun).

oMandarin Oriental PudongHOTEL

(Shanghai Pudong Wenhua Dongfang Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2082 9908; www.mandarinoriental.com; 111 South Pudong Rd; 111 d from ¥3800; aiWs; mLujiazui)

Slightly tucked away from the Lujiazui five-star hotel melee in a sheltered riverside spot, the 362-room Mandarin Oriental is a visual feast, from the beautiful oval chandeliers in the lobby to the multicoloured glass murals (depicting forests) and gorgeous dining choices. All five-star expectations are naturally met, but it's the meticulous service that ices this cake.

Sumptuous rooms aside, there's a 24-hour pool and gym, spa and delicious views. The address may seem a bit stranded, but it's a short walk to the heart of Lujiazui and there's a complimentary shuttle bus within the area.

oRitz-Carlton Shanghai PudongLUXURY HOTEL

(Shanghai Pudong Lisi Kaerdun Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2020 1888; www.ritzcarlton.com; Shanghai IFC, 8 Century Ave; 8 d from ¥2800; aiWs; mLujiazui)

From the stingray-skin-effect wallpaper in the lift to its exquisite accommodation and stunning alfresco bar, the deliciously styled 285-room Ritz-Carlton in the Shanghai IFC is a peach. The beautifully designed rooms – a blend of feminine colours, eye-catching art deco motifs, chic elegance and dramatic Bund-side views – are a stylistic triumph.

Divided from the room by a screen, delightful open-plan bathrooms feature deep and inviting free standing bathtubs. Service is, unsurprisingly, top-notch.

oPark HyattLUXURY HOTEL

(Boyue Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6888 1234; www.parkhyattshanghai.com; Shanghai World Financial Center, 100 Century Ave; 100 d from ¥2500; aiWs; mLujiazui)

Spanning the 79th to 93rd floors of the towering Shanghai World Financial Center, this soaring hotel sees Pudong’s huge buildings (bar the Shanghai Tower) dwarfing into Lego blocks as lobby views graze the tip of the Jinmao Tower. Smaller than the Grand Hyatt, it's a subdued but stylish 174-room affair with a deco slant, high-walled corridors of brown-fabric and grey-stone textures.

Rooms are luxurious, with nifty features (mist-free bathroom mirror containing a small TV screen, automatically opening toilet seats). All come with huge TVs, free wi-fi, free fresh coffee, deep bathtubs, leather chaise lounges, sumptuous beds and outrageously good views. Accessed from the south side of the tower.

Jumeirah Himalayas HotelLUXURY HOTEL

(Zhuomeiya Ximalaya Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %3858 0888; www.jumeirah.com; 1108 Meihua Rd; 1108 d from ¥2188; aiWs; mHuamu Rd)

With its huge lobby hung with traditional Chinese paintings and a vast overhead screen swarming with hypnotic, colourful patterns above a Chinese pavilion, this hotel is jaw-dropping. Just perusing the lobby landscape art alone is a diversion in culture-lite Pudong, while feng shui-arranged rooms are both gorgeous and spacious, designed with a strong accent on traditional Chinese aesthetics, given a modern twist.

Rooms come with lovely bathrooms, hardwood floors, beds arranged with traditional Chinese pillows, and coffee machines are to hand. Service is prompt and assuring; the swimming pool has underwater music; and an array of fine restaurants rounds out an already superlative picture. Discounts are good, but book ahead.

Pudong Shangri-LaLUXURY HOTEL

(Pudong Xianggelila Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6882 8888; www.shangri-la.com; 33 Fucheng Rd; 33 r from ¥2980; aiWs; mLujiazui)

The Shangri-La’s two towers – one dated, the other more dramatically modern – house an undisputed elegance. The lobby, corridors, restaurants and rooms are tastefully decorated in natural colours. The beds are sumptuous with pillows galore, and marble bathrooms are exquisite. Rooms in the new tower have floor-to-ceiling windows for full-on views.

Rooms are around ¥300 to ¥400 cheaper in the old tower while accommodation across the board is subject to discounts.

Grand HyattLUXURY HOTEL

(Jinmao Junyue Dajiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5049 1234; www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com; Jinmao Tower, 88 Century Ave; 88 d from ¥2000-2450; aiWs; mLujiazu)

This classy 555-room hotel, spanning the top 34 floors of the majestic Jinmao Tower, remains one of Shanghai’s finest. Its once unimpeachable standard for quality high-rise hotel living in Shanghai attracted inevitable competition, but an ongoing floor-by-floor refurbishment has pepped up rooms. Tang-dynasty poems are inscribed in gold above lovely beds, while espresso machines, smart tan-leather work desks and inviting bathrooms add to the luxury.

Corner rooms are coveted, and the neck-craning 33-storey atrium is always astonishing. Service remains highly attentive; restaurants (such as On 56) are outstanding; and the views stratospheric.

4Hongkou & North Shanghai

Naza International Youth HostelHOSTEL

(Nazhai Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6541 7062; 318 Baoding Rd; 318 dm ¥75, s/d/tw/f ¥189/229/249/329; aiW; mDalian Rd)

This Hongkou youth hostel has a pleasant light-filled courtyard, and fine communal spaces including a restful bar area with free pool table and a cute cafe. Rooms are a bit scuffed and have basic furniture, but all (apart from some dorms) have TV and en-suite bathroom. More expensive rooms come with reproduction antique furniture, including one with a four-poster bed.

Internet is free and the ground floor has wi-fi. Long-let rooms are also available.

oAstor House HotelHISTORIC HOTEL

(Pujiang Fandian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6324 6388; www.astorhousehotel.com; 15 Huangpu Rd; 15 d/tw ¥1280-1680, 'celebrity' r ¥2080, ste ¥2800-4800; aiW; mTiantong Rd)

Stuffed with history (and perhaps a ghost or two), this august old-timer shakes up an impressive cocktail from select ingredients: a location just off the Bund; old-world, Shanghai-era charm; great discounts; and colossal rooms. The original polished wooden floorboards, corridors and galleries pitch the mood somewhere between British public school and Victorian asylum.

There’s enough wood panelling to build an ark; you could shunt a bed into the capacious bathrooms; and some of the rooms on the higher floors have river views. Pop up the stairs and hang a left to a small museum along the corridor to explore the history of the hotel. Discounts of 40% are common.

Chai Living ResidencesAPARTMENT

(MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5608 6051; www.chailiving.com; Embankment Bldg, 400 N Suzhou Rd; 400 3 days/1 week/1 month apt from ¥3300/6000/13,500; aW; mTiantong Rd)

If you need a stylish Shanghai address, you can’t get much better than one of these 16 luxurious, beautifully appointed and individually styled apartments in the Embankment Building. The block is a living, breathing residential Shanghai block, and bumping into tenants merely adds authentic charm (although the grotty lift is a real shocker for some).

There’s a minimum three-day stay – just enough time to fully savour the outstanding views (none lower than the fifth floor) and decor of each apartment, each with sound-proof German windows. Apartments range from 40 to 200 sq metres, with daily maid service, underfloor heating, kitchens with Nespresso coffee machines and tantalising river views.

4Xujiahui & South Shanghai

Asset HotelHOTEL

(Yashe Binguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6438 9900; www.asset-hotel.com; 590 South Wanping Rd; 590 r from ¥360; ai; mShanghai Stadium)

Housed in a charming yellow-and-white building hidden from the main road by apartments, this higher-end budget option offers smart, clean rooms with free broadband, complimentary mineral water, a fridge, TV and kettle. Rates include breakfast, and discounts reach 45%.