Preparing these three elements yourself is simple enough, but if you want a near instant version of this dish, you can buy them ready-prepared from a good deli. If you make just one, go for the labneh – it’s a doddle.
Serves 4
For the preserved lemons
8 unwaxed lemons
4 tablespoons coarse sea salt
OR
¼ large pickled lemon from a jar
For the labneh (yoghurt ‘cheese’)
500g plain wholemilk yoghurt
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
OR
250g ready-made labneh
For the artichokes
4 large or 6 medium globe artichokes
A good squeeze of lemon juice
About 200ml extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove (unpeeled), bashed
½ small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
1 small stem of rosemary (optional)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
OR
250g char-grilled or roasted artichoke hearts in olive oil
To salt your own lemons, cut 4 lemons vertically into four, but not through to the ends, so the fruit is joined at the top and base. Pack sea salt into the cuts. Squash the salted lemons into a preserving jar. Seal and leave for a couple of days – the salt will draw out a lot of lemon juice. Squeeze enough juice from the other 4 lemons to cover the fruit in the jar and seal again. Store for at least 1 month before using, turning the jar upside down and back again every now and then. Once opened, store in the fridge – for up to a year if you keep the lemons covered by the liquid.
To make your own labneh, put the yoghurt in a bowl, add the salt and mix thoroughly. Line a sieve with muslin or a thin cotton cloth, place over a deep bowl and spoon in the salted yoghurt. Flip the sides of the muslin over the yoghurt to enclose it. Leave for 3–4 hours, until a significant amount of liquid has drained off and the yoghurt has the texture of crème fraîche. Transfer the labneh to a bowl or tub, trickle with extra virgin olive oil and season with black pepper. Refrigerate until needed. It will keep for a week.
To prepare your own artichoke hearts, cook the artichokes whole as described here. When you’ve removed all the leaves and the hairy ‘choke’, quarter the hearts. Put them in a bowl with a little extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper and toss to coat. Heat a ridged cast-iron griddle pan or heavy-based frying pan over a high heat. Cook the hearts over the fierce heat for a few minutes, turning once or twice, until patched with golden brown. Transfer to a bowl, add the garlic, and chilli and rosemary if using, and cover with extra virgin olive oil. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours, bringing them back to room temperature before serving.
To serve, put a generous spoonful of labneh on each plate, add the artichoke hearts and trickle with some of their oil. Scoop away and discard the soft flesh from the pickled lemon quarter, then slice the rind finely and scatter over the labneh and artichokes. Finish with a grinding of black pepper and enjoy with flatbreads.