break the fast first
Chapter One
Breakfast
Bursting-Hot Berries
blueberry buttermilk pancakes
makes 12 pancakes
Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes with Double Pork Sausage (page 34).
There are times when all I need to be happy is a stack of golden, buttery flapjacks.
Rivulets of hot, sweet maple syrup dripping off the pancakes and flooding a salty
Double Pork Sausage (page 34) is my idea of heaven. Tangy buttermilk contrasts with the sweet blueberries, but
you can make this recipe with whatever berries you have on hand.
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon coarse salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup fresh or thawed frozen blueberries
2 cups buttermilk (well shaken before measuring)
2 large eggs
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Vegetable oil for cooking
Unsalted butter and maple syrup for serving
- Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and sugar in
a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Toss the blueberries with 2 tablespoons of
the dry mixture in a medium bowl and set aside (see Note). Make a well in the center
of the dry mixture and add the buttermilk, eggs, and lemon zest. Whisk together the
wet ingredients, gradually incorporating the dry mixture, mixing just until combined;
some small lumps should remain in the batter. Fold in the blueberries. Let stand for
10 minutes.
- Preheat a double-burner griddle or a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.
Brush the griddle or pan with vegetable oil and ladle ⅓ cup of the batter per pancake
onto the griddle. When small bubbles appear across the surface of the pancakes and
the edges lift from the griddle, flip and continue cooking until golden brown on the
second side and springy to the touch, about 3 minutes total. Serve with butter and
maple syrup as they are done, then continue with the rest of the batter.
Porcine Pinnacle
double pork sausage
serves 4
You cannot—repeat, cannot—go wrong with a cured-smoked pork product in a dish, but
if you can find a way to double it down at the breakfast table, you’ve hit the flavor
jackpot. I love to serve these bacon-wrapped sausages with sweet breakfast fare like
Apple-Maple French Toast (page 37) or Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes (page 32) as a super-satisfying savory, salty counterpunch.
8 pork breakfast sausages
4 slices bacon, cut crosswise in half
- Preheat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the upper third position. Put a small baking
sheet in the oven to preheat for 2 to 3 minutes.
- Meanwhile, wrap 1 piece of bacon around the middle of each sausage. Arrange the wrapped
sausages seam side down on the heated baking sheet and cook for 20 minutes, or until
the sausages are cooked through and the bacon is gold and crisp on the edges. Drain
on paper towels and serve.
Everyone in my household needs at least 3 of these. I wrap the sausages in advance,
place them on a platter, and refrigerate. When I’m ready for breakfast, I place them
on the preheated baking sheet and cook. I also like that they cook in the oven while
I’m making my French toast or pancakes on the stovetop.
Do-Ahead and Addictive
ham and cheese strata
serves 6 to 8
I first encountered this dish as a little girl, when my mom’s friend hosted a catered
Thanksgiving brunch. I thought it was a fancy casserole that only a “professional”
could make, which is pretty funny when I think about it now. A strata is a caterer’s
dream, and it’s also one of the simplest dishes for a home cook when entertaining.
Prep and refrigerate it uncooked the night before. Pop it in the oven just before
brunch, leaving the stovetop free for other tasks.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
10 large eggs
2½ cups whole milk
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon smoked paprika (pimentón) or sweet paprika
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 loaf of Pullman or sandwich bread, cut into 1-inch squares
1 pound boiled or baked deli ham, chopped into ½-inch dice
5 scallions, thinly sliced
8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
- Butter a 2½- to 3-quart baking dish with the softened butter. Whisk together the eggs,
milk, mustard, paprika, and salt in a large bowl.
- Arrange half the bread in the bottom of the baking dish. Top with half the ham, scallions,
and cheese. Repeat, layering the rest of the bread and then the remaining ham, scallions,
and cheese, pressing them down as necessary to fit in the baking dish. Carefully pour
over the egg mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
- Preheat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the middle position. Bake the strata, uncovered,
for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, until puffed and lightly golden brown. Let rest for
5 minutes before serving.
Sweet, Golden, and Custardy
apple-maple french toast
serves 4 to 6
Along with pancakes, French toast is one of the few sugary-sweet breakfasts I brought
my children up eating. This version is best when there’s a slight nip in the air and
apples are at their sweetest. I like to eat mine with a salty runny-yolk fried egg
on the side, naturally (see Egg Evangelist, page 40).
6 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Ground cinnamon
6 slices bread
About 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced into ⅓-inch slices
2 tablespoons water
½ cup maple syrup
- Whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla, and a dash of cinnamon in a 9-by-13-inch baking
dish. Add the slices of bread in a single layer and turn (occasionally) until all
the egg is absorbed.
- Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter,
add the apples, turning to coat with butter, and cook over medium-high heat until
they start to caramelize. Add the water and cook until it has evaporated and until
the apples are tender, about 4 more minutes. Add the maple syrup and another dash
of cinnamon and simmer for 1 minute to combine. Remove from the heat but keep warm
while you make the toast.
- Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high
heat. (If your skillet isn’t large enough, cook in batches.) Add the soaked bread
and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes, adding
more butter to the skillet if needed. Arrange the French toast on a serving plate
and top with the apple-maple mixture and, if you’d like, more butter.
V-egg-ie Wedges
asparagus and spinach frittata
serves 8
Another one-pan breakfast or brunch dish that is simple to prepare, healthy, and delicious—and
this one is seasonally spring. The tangy sauce is a zippy taste counterpoint to the
gentle egg-vegetable flavor. Room-temperature wedges of frittata are well suited for
wrapping up to take on the go.
Frittata
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed
1½ teaspoons coarse salt
½ lemon
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound fresh spinach, steamed and chopped, or one 10-ounce package chopped frozen
spinach, thawed and drained
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10 large eggs
1½ cups whole milk
Sauce
1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
- For the frittata, preheat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle position. Heat
a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil (see
Note, page 171). When it shimmers, add the asparagus and ½ teaspoon of the salt and cook, tossing
occasionally, until the asparagus is crisp-tender and brown in spots, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer the asparagus to a plate, squeeze the juice of the lemon over it, and let
cool.
- Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. When the
oil shimmers, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about
3 minutes. Add the garlic, spinach, pepper, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and
cook until the spinach is warmed through, about 1 minute.
- Whisk the eggs and milk in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Pour into the
skillet and cook, stirring constantly, just until the eggs begin to scramble but are
still very wet. Remove from the heat.
- Distribute the asparagus in a single layer over the eggs, pressing them gently into
the eggs. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the frittata is
set.
- Meanwhile, for the sauce, combine the capers, parsley, scallions, oil, vinegar, and
salt in a small bowl.
- Slice the frittata into wedges and serve with the sauce.
All–in-One Short Order
hash brown egg topper
serves 5 or 6
Eggs with runny yolks snuggled into golden potato divots are as simple and delicious
as it gets: the prototypical egg combo found in your favorite breakfast joint, except
you serve five (my family) or six people from one pan.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more if needed
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
½ red bell pepper, thinly sliced lengthwise and then halved
3 slices bacon (optional)
4 baked potatoes (see page 123), cubed (including skin)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
5 or 6 large eggs
- Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter and let it melt. Add the onions,
peppers, and bacon, if using, and cook until the bacon is cooked, 5 to 6 minutes.
Add the potatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste and let sit to brown on the
bottom a couple of minutes; add a little more butter if needed. Reduce the heat to
medium-low, flip the potatoes, and brown on the other side for 2 minutes or so.
- Make 5 or 6 shallow holes in the potato mixture. Add a dot of butter to each hole
and crack in an egg. Put a pinch of salt on each egg. Sprinkle in some water to create
steam, cover, and cook for about 3 minutes, until the whites are set but the yolks
are still runny.
For Loggers or Pregnant Women
lumberjack breakfast sandwich
makes 2 sandwiches
My morning pregnancy craving was the lumberjack special at the corner diner. My husband,
stunned as he was at the volume of this city girl’s consumption, dubbed it the “jackhammer
operators’ special.” The all-in-one plate included every type of salty breakfast meat
possible, along with eggs, hash browns, and pancakes or French toast. This sandwich
takes its inspiration from those days. Over the years, we’ve concocted all kinds of
breakfast sandwiches ’cause they’re so damn convenient: wrap and go. This one is for
anyone who is calorie-courageous!
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 leftover baked potato, cubed
1 small onion, chopped
2 hero rolls, split in half
2 thin slices ham
4 slices cheese, such as cheddar, American, Muenster, or Swiss
6 large eggs
1 tablespoon milk or cream
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 slices cooked bacon
2 cooked sausage patties or 4 cooked small breakfast links, halved
Ketchup and hot sauce, such as Tabasco
- Preheat a toaster oven or the oven to 325°F. Heat a large skillet over medium heat.
Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, the potatoes, and onions, and fry over high heat,
pressing down with a spatula to create rustic, crispy hash browns, about 10 minutes.
Transfer to a plate; set the skillet aside.
- Meanwhile, spread 1 tablespoon butter over the cut sides of the tops of the rolls.
Place the ham and then the cheese on the bottom half of the rolls. Arrange on a tray
or baking sheet and heat in the toaster oven or oven for about 2 to 3 minutes, until
the cheese is melted.
- While the cheese is melting, whisk the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper to taste together
in a bowl. Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in the skillet. Add the eggs and
scramble until just set, about 2 minutes.
- Arrange the bacon and sausage on the melted cheese. Spoon the eggs over the bacon
and sausage. Top with the hash browns. Squirt with some ketchup and hot sauce. Cover
with the top half of the toasted rolls and press down gently. Cut the sandwiches in
half and serve, or wrap in parchment or foil to go.
Layer and Lap It
blueberry granola parfait
makes 1 (multiply as needed)
A homemade yogurt, fruit, and granola parfait is a really tasty-smart way to start
the day, with all the nutrients you need in a balanced breakfast. You can prepare
this in a sealable, reusable container so it can be eaten on the go or left in your
office’s refrigerator.
1 cup frozen blueberries, preferably organic
Pinch each salt, sugar, and ground cinnamon
⅔ cup Greek-style yogurt
¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons store-bought granola, or homemade (recipe follows)
- Combine the blueberries, salt, sugar, and cinnamon in a small saucepan, bring to a
simmer, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sugar is dissolved and the berries
are thawed. Let cool completely.
- Mix the yogurt with the vanilla and honey. Spoon ⅓ cup of the yogurt into the bottom
of a glass and smooth the top. Spoon over 1 tablespoon of the blueberry mixture and
sprinkle with 1 tablespoon granola. Repeat the layering (you will have some extra
sauce), and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Dessert Diversion
milk-and-cookies smoothie
serves 3
You can sell any kid on this healthy drink, although you need to sell yourself first—because
it sounds like a sweet instead of a nutritious breakfast smoothie. In fact, it’s amazingly
good fuel for a busy day, even if you consume nothing else but this drink first thing
in the morning: protein (from the peanut butter, milk, and milk ice cubes), potassium
(a natural energy booster from the banana), an immune strengthener from the honey,
and enough carbs from the tea biscuits to sustain you until lunchtime. Be sure to
make your frozen milk cubes in advance.
1 cup whole milk
1 cup milk ice cubes
1 banana, peeled, sliced, and frozen
½ cup crushed English tea biscuits
¼ cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons honey
- Combine the milk, ice cubes, banana, tea biscuits, peanut butter, and honey in a blender
and puree until smooth. Serve immediately.
Creamy Fruit Shake
oatmeal raspberry smoothie
serves 2 to 4
It may seem odd to use dried oats in a smoothie, but it’s a great way to enrich the
drink with some healthy calories for much needed energy to start the day. And everything
blends together smoothly—you won’t even know the oats are there. Coconut water is
another nourishing addition. I use store-bought frozen organic berries, which are
picked and frozen at the peak of ripeness. Of course, you can freeze your own at the
start of the season and use these “natural” frozen berries throughout the rest of
the year.
1 cup ice cubes
½ cup frozen raspberries
½ cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 banana, peeled
½ cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1 tablespoon honey
1 cup coconut water (or juice such as orange or apple or other liquid)
- Put the ice and berries in a blender, add the remaining ingredients, and whirl until
completely smooth. Serve.
Better-Baked Breakfast Sweet
date walnut muffins
makes 18 muffins
Dates impart a rich and sweet flavor, but they also help keep the muffins moist. And
dates contain more potassium than bananas! Homemade muffins can be baked, cooled,
wrapped individually in plastic wrap, then put in a freezer bag, and kept in the freezer.
Take one out the night before to thaw and then tuck it into your briefcase or purse.
1 cup strong coffee
5 ounces (¾ cup) pitted dates
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking soda
½ teaspoon coarse salt
2 large eggs
¼ cup honey
½ cup sugar
½ cup safflower oil
1½ cups whole milk
½ cup chopped walnuts
- Preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position. Line eighteen muffin
cups with paper liners.
- Bring the coffee to a simmer in a small saucepan. Add the dates, remove from the heat,
and let cool to room temperature. Drain the dates, discarding the coffee, and chop.
- Whisk together the flours, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the
eggs, honey, sugar, oil, and milk in a medium bowl. Make a well in the dry ingredients,
pour in the wet ingredients, and whisk together. Fold in the dates and walnuts; do
not overmix. Spoon the batter into the muffin cups, filling them three-quarters full.
- Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a toothpick inserted
into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Let cool for 5 minutes in the pan before
removing.
Bagel Salad
healthy bagel sandwich
makes 4 sandwiches
I love a good savory bagel sandwich, but sometimes a thick, crusty bagel loaded with
cream cheese or dripping with melted cheese, bacon, and egg can be a little much in
the morning. So try this healthier take for something lighter but equally satisfying.
The yogurt cheese may seem a little intimidating, what with the use of cheesecloth
and all, but it’s super-easy to prep. It tastes like slightly tangier cream cheese.
Note that the yogurt has to drain for at least 24 hours.
3 cups plain yogurt
½ teaspoon coarse salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
4 bagels, split
1 medium tomato, sliced
½ small red onion, very thinly sliced
2 cups baby arugula
- Line a sieve with three layers of cheesecloth and set it over a deep bowl. Spoon the
yogurt into the center of the cheesecloth, gather up the corners, twisting them to
tighten the cloth around the yogurt, and tie with kitchen twine. Refrigerate for at
least 24 hours, and up to 3 days.
- Scrape the yogurt cheese into a medium bowl. Stir in the salt, pepper, and basil.
- To assemble each sandwich, spread one-quarter of the cheese onto both cut sides of
the bagel. Top one side with some tomato, red onion, and arugula. Close the sandwiches
and serve right away. Alternatively, wrap in parchment paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate
for up to 1 hour until ready to eat.