break the fast first

Chapter One

Breakfast

Bursting-Hot Berries

blueberry buttermilk pancakes

makes 12 pancakes

Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes with Double Pork Sausage (page 34).

There are times when all I need to be happy is a stack of golden, buttery flapjacks. Rivulets of hot, sweet maple syrup dripping off the pancakes and flooding a salty Double Pork Sausage (page 34) is my idea of heaven. Tangy buttermilk contrasts with the sweet blueberries, but you can make this recipe with whatever berries you have on hand.

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen blueberries

2 cups buttermilk (well shaken before measuring)

2 large eggs

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Vegetable oil for cooking

Unsalted butter and maple syrup for serving

1. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and sugar in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Toss the blueberries with 2 tablespoons of the dry mixture in a medium bowl and set aside (see Note). Make a well in the center of the dry mixture and add the buttermilk, eggs, and lemon zest. Whisk together the wet ingredients, gradually incorporating the dry mixture, mixing just until combined; some small lumps should remain in the batter. Fold in the blueberries. Let stand for 10 minutes.
2. Preheat a double-burner griddle or a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Brush the griddle or pan with vegetable oil and ladle ⅓ cup of the batter per pancake onto the griddle. When small bubbles appear across the surface of the pancakes and the edges lift from the griddle, flip and continue cooking until golden brown on the second side and springy to the touch, about 3 minutes total. Serve with butter and maple syrup as they are done, then continue with the rest of the batter.

Dusting the berries with some of the flour mixture before folding them into the batter allows the dry floured berries to get “caught” throughout the batter, rather than collecting in the bottom of the bowl, as a handful of slick fresh berries will do. If using frozen berries, fold them in very gently at the end to avoid entirely bluish-purple-toned flapjacks.

Buttermilk

For most people, the buttermilk left over after using a small quantity in a recipe ends up festering in the back of the refrigerator. And weeks later, when you go to check to see whether it’s still good, you can’t really tell, because it’s sour by nature, and so you just chuck it. Instead, plan to put it to good use. Transform it into a Strawberry Buttermilk Shake (page 260), or use it to coat Chicken-Fried Steak (page 160), or do what my mom does: make soup.

Nutshell recipe: cold creamy tomato soup

For a quick, healthy, cold soup, blend equal parts buttermilk and tomato juice. Stir in chopped scallions and fresh dill.

Porcine Pinnacle

double pork sausage

serves 4

You cannot—repeat, cannot—go wrong with a cured-smoked pork product in a dish, but if you can find a way to double it down at the breakfast table, you’ve hit the flavor jackpot. I love to serve these bacon-wrapped sausages with sweet breakfast fare like Apple-Maple French Toast (page 37) or Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes (page 32) as a super-satisfying savory, salty counterpunch.

8 pork breakfast sausages

4 slices bacon, cut crosswise in half

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the upper third position. Put a small baking sheet in the oven to preheat for 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, wrap 1 piece of bacon around the middle of each sausage. Arrange the wrapped sausages seam side down on the heated baking sheet and cook for 20 minutes, or until the sausages are cooked through and the bacon is gold and crisp on the edges. Drain on paper towels and serve.

Everyone in my household needs at least 3 of these. I wrap the sausages in advance, place them on a platter, and refrigerate. When I’m ready for breakfast, I place them on the preheated baking sheet and cook. I also like that they cook in the oven while I’m making my French toast or pancakes on the stovetop.

Coffee

Going without coffee will not make my day! When I travel and come across an interesting roaster or coffee shop, I bring home some beans as a souvenir. Otherwise, I’m good with high-quality dark roast whole beans over ground beans. I prefer French roast or Sumatran from the market or a can of Illy-brand beans. I keep the beans in the freezer.

Do-Ahead and Addictive

ham and cheese strata

serves 6 to 8

I first encountered this dish as a little girl, when my mom’s friend hosted a catered Thanksgiving brunch. I thought it was a fancy casserole that only a “professional” could make, which is pretty funny when I think about it now. A strata is a caterer’s dream, and it’s also one of the simplest dishes for a home cook when entertaining. Prep and refrigerate it uncooked the night before. Pop it in the oven just before brunch, leaving the stovetop free for other tasks.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

10 large eggs

2½ cups whole milk

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon smoked paprika (pimentón) or sweet paprika

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 loaf of Pullman or sandwich bread, cut into 1-inch squares

1 pound boiled or baked deli ham, chopped into ½-inch dice

5 scallions, thinly sliced

8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

1. Butter a 2½- to 3-quart baking dish with the softened butter. Whisk together the eggs, milk, mustard, paprika, and salt in a large bowl.
2. Arrange half the bread in the bottom of the baking dish. Top with half the ham, scallions, and cheese. Repeat, layering the rest of the bread and then the remaining ham, scallions, and cheese, pressing them down as necessary to fit in the baking dish. Carefully pour over the egg mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 325°F with a rack in the middle position. Bake the strata, uncovered, for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, until puffed and lightly golden brown. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Decorative Baking Dishes

A recipe like this, cooked and served in the same vessel, is worthy of a handsome rectangular or oval baking dish. Beautiful hand-painted clay, colorful enamel cast-iron, or sleeker porcelain versions—all are worth investing in. I have an eclectic collection of them, accumulated over time, and I love to mix instead of match. And one of these makes a great shower or wedding gift. We don’t always buy for ourselves items that end up being used over and over.

Sweet, Golden, and Custardy

apple-maple french toast

serves 4 to 6

Along with pancakes, French toast is one of the few sugary-sweet breakfasts I brought my children up eating. This version is best when there’s a slight nip in the air and apples are at their sweetest. I like to eat mine with a salty runny-yolk fried egg on the side, naturally (see Egg Evangelist, page 40).

6 large eggs

1 cup whole milk

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Ground cinnamon

6 slices bread

About 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced into ⅓-inch slices

2 tablespoons water

½ cup maple syrup

1. Whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla, and a dash of cinnamon in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Add the slices of bread in a single layer and turn (occasionally) until all the egg is absorbed.
2. Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter, add the apples, turning to coat with butter, and cook over medium-high heat until they start to caramelize. Add the water and cook until it has evaporated and until the apples are tender, about 4 more minutes. Add the maple syrup and another dash of cinnamon and simmer for 1 minute to combine. Remove from the heat but keep warm while you make the toast.
3. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. (If your skillet isn’t large enough, cook in batches.) Add the soaked bread and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes, adding more butter to the skillet if needed. Arrange the French toast on a serving plate and top with the apple-maple mixture and, if you’d like, more butter.

Apples

Any apple will do here. I’m a big believer in using what is on hand and not feeling pressured to have the perfect ingredient before you can cook. But if you have the choice, seek out a tart apple like Granny Smith, Cortland, or Winesap.

Lost bread (a literal translation of the French pain perdu) is old bread that’s perfect for French toast. Because it’s dry and porous, it will suck up the egg mixture. You can use slices from a fresh loaf, but if you have the time, lay the slices out on a baking sheet overnight uncovered or dry it out slightly in a 250°F oven for several minutes.

V-egg-ie Wedges

asparagus and spinach frittata

serves 8

Another one-pan breakfast or brunch dish that is simple to prepare, healthy, and delicious—and this one is seasonally spring. The tangy sauce is a zippy taste counterpoint to the gentle egg-vegetable flavor. Room-temperature wedges of frittata are well suited for wrapping up to take on the go.

Frittata

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed

1½ teaspoons coarse salt

½ lemon

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound fresh spinach, steamed and chopped, or one 10-ounce package chopped frozen spinach, thawed and drained

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

10 large eggs

1½ cups whole milk

Sauce

1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed and chopped

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 scallions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

1. For the frittata, preheat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle position. Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil (see Note, page 171). When it shimmers, add the asparagus and ½ teaspoon of the salt and cook, tossing occasionally, until the asparagus is crisp-tender and brown in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a plate, squeeze the juice of the lemon over it, and let cool.
2. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, spinach, pepper, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and cook until the spinach is warmed through, about 1 minute.
3. Whisk the eggs and milk in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Pour into the skillet and cook, stirring constantly, just until the eggs begin to scramble but are still very wet. Remove from the heat.
4. Distribute the asparagus in a single layer over the eggs, pressing them gently into the eggs. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the frittata is set.
5. Meanwhile, for the sauce, combine the capers, parsley, scallions, oil, vinegar, and salt in a small bowl.
6. Slice the frittata into wedges and serve with the sauce.

A frittata is the little black dress of egg dishes. Think of it as the canvas for any manner of adornment. Vegetables, meats, or cheeses can be combined with the eggs or layered in to suit your fancy. This basic technique starts stovetop, with beaten eggs cooked in a skillet with some oil or butter, and then transferred to the oven to cook evenly throughout and puff up the top in the process. It’s equally satisfying for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a snack, eaten hot, cool, or at room temperature.

Frozen spinach is an excellent item to utilize if fresh spinach is not required. However, if using fresh spinach, clean and steam in a covered pot until collapsed (4 to 5 minutes for 1 pound). Cool, drain, and chop.

All–in-One Short Order

hash brown egg topper

serves 5 or 6

Eggs with runny yolks snuggled into golden potato divots are as simple and delicious as it gets: the prototypical egg combo found in your favorite breakfast joint, except you serve five (my family) or six people from one pan.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more if needed

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

½ red bell pepper, thinly sliced lengthwise and then halved

3 slices bacon (optional)

4 baked potatoes (see page 123), cubed (including skin)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

5 or 6 large eggs

1. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter and let it melt. Add the onions, peppers, and bacon, if using, and cook until the bacon is cooked, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the potatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste and let sit to brown on the bottom a couple of minutes; add a little more butter if needed. Reduce the heat to medium-low, flip the potatoes, and brown on the other side for 2 minutes or so.
2. Make 5 or 6 shallow holes in the potato mixture. Add a dot of butter to each hole and crack in an egg. Put a pinch of salt on each egg. Sprinkle in some water to create steam, cover, and cook for about 3 minutes, until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny.

Egg Evangelist

My friend says that I’ve never met a food I wouldn’t put an egg on—especially at breakfast. I’ll fry up an egg to top almost any reheated leftovers. And it always works! I buy large eggs, not jumbo or medium, because most baking recipes specify large eggs. And, unless separating the yolk and white for baking, I keep them together: surely a study someday will alert us to the danger of egg-white-only omelets?

Potato Pontification If baked potatoes are on the dinner menu, throw a few extra into the oven for the next morning. And even when they aren’t, put in some extra potatoes to cook when the oven is cranked. They are a true breakfast friend. For heaven’s sakes, if you’re in a hurry, just leave the skin on; I often do. It’s where most of the fiber is, along with extra vitamins and minerals. It can look cool too.

For Loggers or Pregnant Women

lumberjack breakfast sandwich

makes 2 sandwiches

My morning pregnancy craving was the lumberjack special at the corner diner. My husband, stunned as he was at the volume of this city girl’s consumption, dubbed it the “jackhammer operators’ special.” The all-in-one plate included every type of salty breakfast meat possible, along with eggs, hash browns, and pancakes or French toast. This sandwich takes its inspiration from those days. Over the years, we’ve concocted all kinds of breakfast sandwiches ’cause they’re so damn convenient: wrap and go. This one is for anyone who is calorie-courageous!

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 leftover baked potato, cubed

1 small onion, chopped

2 hero rolls, split in half

2 thin slices ham

4 slices cheese, such as cheddar, American, Muenster, or Swiss

6 large eggs

1 tablespoon milk or cream

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 slices cooked bacon

2 cooked sausage patties or 4 cooked small breakfast links, halved

Ketchup and hot sauce, such as Tabasco

1. Preheat a toaster oven or the oven to 325°F. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, the potatoes, and onions, and fry over high heat, pressing down with a spatula to create rustic, crispy hash browns, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate; set the skillet aside.
2. Meanwhile, spread 1 tablespoon butter over the cut sides of the tops of the rolls. Place the ham and then the cheese on the bottom half of the rolls. Arrange on a tray or baking sheet and heat in the toaster oven or oven for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the cheese is melted.
3. While the cheese is melting, whisk the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper to taste together in a bowl. Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in the skillet. Add the eggs and scramble until just set, about 2 minutes.
4. Arrange the bacon and sausage on the melted cheese. Spoon the eggs over the bacon and sausage. Top with the hash browns. Squirt with some ketchup and hot sauce. Cover with the top half of the toasted rolls and press down gently. Cut the sandwiches in half and serve, or wrap in parchment or foil to go.

Good quick breakfasts are much easier to make when you’re prepared.

• When you have some extra time, cook up a whole pound of bacon, and freeze it in 3-slice packets. It will be ready in seconds after a quick blast in the microwave or in a skillet—and it sure beats a whole bacon-frying production.
• See Potato Pontification (page 40).
• Speaking of the freezer: if you’re a breakfast-sandwich maker, keep bread, bagels, or rolls in the freezer. Slice or split before wrapping in plastic wrap and then foil and freezing.
• Have parchment paper and foil on hand, ready to wrap up your creations for the road.

Layer and Lap It

blueberry granola parfait

makes 1 (multiply as needed)

A homemade yogurt, fruit, and granola parfait is a really tasty-smart way to start the day, with all the nutrients you need in a balanced breakfast. You can prepare this in a sealable, reusable container so it can be eaten on the go or left in your office’s refrigerator.

1 cup frozen blueberries, preferably organic

Pinch each salt, sugar, and ground cinnamon

⅔ cup Greek-style yogurt

¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon honey

2 tablespoons store-bought granola, or homemade (recipe follows)

1. Combine the blueberries, salt, sugar, and cinnamon in a small saucepan, bring to a simmer, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sugar is dissolved and the berries are thawed. Let cool completely.
2. Mix the yogurt with the vanilla and honey. Spoon ⅓ cup of the yogurt into the bottom of a glass and smooth the top. Spoon over 1 tablespoon of the blueberry mixture and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon granola. Repeat the layering (you will have some extra sauce), and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Granola

More often than not, store-bought granola is a big buzz kill. The packaging can be all come-hither in its graphics and images, but when you get it home and open it, it tastes weird. That’s because it’s filled with ingredients that go rancid really quickly, like nuts and seeds. Homemade granola is more than worth the time it takes and it’s easily tailored to your personal tastes. Plus, it makes a good dessert in a pinch.

Nutshell recipe: homemade granola

Combine 1 pound rolled oats, 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut, a small handful of sesame seeds, and some bran or wheat germ. Add ½ cup nuts, such as slivered almonds, peanuts, or pecans, and toss. In another bowl, combine ½ cup safflower or extra virgin olive oil, ½ cup sweetener, such as honey, maple syrup, or agave, and ½ cup water. Stir the liquid mixture into the oat mixture. Spread on baking sheets and bake at 250°F for 1½ hours. Toss with a handful of dried fruit, such as raisins, dried cherries, or cranberries. Let cool. That’s it. Store in an airtight container.

Dessert Diversion

milk-and-cookies smoothie

serves 3

You can sell any kid on this healthy drink, although you need to sell yourself first—because it sounds like a sweet instead of a nutritious breakfast smoothie. In fact, it’s amazingly good fuel for a busy day, even if you consume nothing else but this drink first thing in the morning: protein (from the peanut butter, milk, and milk ice cubes), potassium (a natural energy booster from the banana), an immune strengthener from the honey, and enough carbs from the tea biscuits to sustain you until lunchtime. Be sure to make your frozen milk cubes in advance.

1 cup whole milk

1 cup milk ice cubes

1 banana, peeled, sliced, and frozen

½ cup crushed English tea biscuits

¼ cup peanut butter

2 tablespoons honey

1. Combine the milk, ice cubes, banana, tea biscuits, peanut butter, and honey in a blender and puree until smooth. Serve immediately.

English Tea Biscuits

Small and sweet, tea biscuits are a cross between a cookie and a cracker. They’re nutritious and travel-friendly, easy to store and carry. My favorite brand is McVitie’s “digestives,” which are salty-sweet and perfect for dipping in tea or coffee. You can find them in the English or international section of your supermarket or online at www.englishteastore.com.

Creamy Fruit Shake

oatmeal raspberry smoothie

serves 2 to 4

It may seem odd to use dried oats in a smoothie, but it’s a great way to enrich the drink with some healthy calories for much needed energy to start the day. And everything blends together smoothly—you won’t even know the oats are there. Coconut water is another nourishing addition. I use store-bought frozen organic berries, which are picked and frozen at the peak of ripeness. Of course, you can freeze your own at the start of the season and use these “natural” frozen berries throughout the rest of the year.

1 cup ice cubes

½ cup frozen raspberries

½ cup plain low-fat yogurt

1 banana, peeled

½ cup old-fashioned rolled oats

1 tablespoon honey

1 cup coconut water (or juice such as orange or apple or other liquid)

1. Put the ice and berries in a blender, add the remaining ingredients, and whirl until completely smooth. Serve.

Crazy for Coconut Water

Jamaica has been a second home to me all my life. It’s a place where fresh young green coconuts are hacked open at the top to make nature’s own take-out drink. Coconut water is so nourishing that old-timers en route to a hospital stay stop at roadside vendors to stock up on the health-giving elixir to sustain them. These days, coconut water is the new “it” drink, sold packaged in the supermarket. It’s naturally rich in electrolytes and amino acids—for Luca, my athlete son, it has even replaced Gatorade. Sometimes I use it instead of water when making oatmeal or rice. And it’s in my low-fat cocktail of choice.

Nutshell recipe: diet cocktail

Combine organic vodka and coconut water over ice, with a twist of orange rind.

Better-Baked Breakfast Sweet

date walnut muffins

makes 18 muffins

Dates impart a rich and sweet flavor, but they also help keep the muffins moist. And dates contain more potassium than bananas! Homemade muffins can be baked, cooled, wrapped individually in plastic wrap, then put in a freezer bag, and kept in the freezer. Take one out the night before to thaw and then tuck it into your briefcase or purse.

1 cup strong coffee

5 ounces (¾ cup) pitted dates

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon baking soda

½ teaspoon coarse salt

2 large eggs

¼ cup honey

½ cup sugar

½ cup safflower oil

1½ cups whole milk

½ cup chopped walnuts

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position. Line eighteen muffin cups with paper liners.
2. Bring the coffee to a simmer in a small saucepan. Add the dates, remove from the heat, and let cool to room temperature. Drain the dates, discarding the coffee, and chop.
3. Whisk together the flours, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the eggs, honey, sugar, oil, and milk in a medium bowl. Make a well in the dry ingredients, pour in the wet ingredients, and whisk together. Fold in the dates and walnuts; do not overmix. Spoon the batter into the muffin cups, filling them three-quarters full.
4. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Let cool for 5 minutes in the pan before removing.

The Maternal Line

I learned how to make and use a great date puree from my mom, who learned it from her mother. Neither of them ever saw a sweet cake or biscuit they didn’t think deserved a swath of this puree. Even my chocolate birthday cake had a layer spread underneath the frosting!

Nutshell recipe: date puree

Steep dates in hot coffee until soft, and puree with some of the liquid into a paste.

pet peeve

I scratch my head trying to remember exactly when garden-variety, commercial, store-bought, deli, bakery, and food-cart muffins morphed from a genteel size to a Uniroyal tire. More often than not, these giant muffins—often too sweet—are laced with berries that taste of Froot Loops and a flour product so bleached white that it disintegrates into dust when bitten into. They are so damn dry that you need to wash them down with a cup of coffee or tea, lest your mouth turn into the Sahara. Yet muffin making is just about the easiest baking project to do at home. So if muffins are your thing, for Pete’s sake buy a muffin tin and make them yourself.

Bagel Salad

healthy bagel sandwich

makes 4 sandwiches

I love a good savory bagel sandwich, but sometimes a thick, crusty bagel loaded with cream cheese or dripping with melted cheese, bacon, and egg can be a little much in the morning. So try this healthier take for something lighter but equally satisfying. The yogurt cheese may seem a little intimidating, what with the use of cheesecloth and all, but it’s super-easy to prep. It tastes like slightly tangier cream cheese. Note that the yogurt has to drain for at least 24 hours.

3 cups plain yogurt

½ teaspoon coarse salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

4 bagels, split

1 medium tomato, sliced

½ small red onion, very thinly sliced

2 cups baby arugula

1. Line a sieve with three layers of cheesecloth and set it over a deep bowl. Spoon the yogurt into the center of the cheesecloth, gather up the corners, twisting them to tighten the cloth around the yogurt, and tie with kitchen twine. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours, and up to 3 days.
2. Scrape the yogurt cheese into a medium bowl. Stir in the salt, pepper, and basil.
3. To assemble each sandwich, spread one-quarter of the cheese onto both cut sides of the bagel. Top one side with some tomato, red onion, and arugula. Close the sandwiches and serve right away. Alternatively, wrap in parchment paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 hour until ready to eat.

The hardest thing about making yogurt cheese is allowing for the 24 hours needed to drain it. It’s ridiculously versatile. Stir in any flavoring you like: Try a little olive oil with some combination of minced garlic, finely chopped scallions or chives, and/or other fresh herbs like parsley, dill, thyme, or oregano. Grated citrus zest or a little juice—lemon, orange, or grapefruit—is also good. Use it as a sandwich spread. Dip fresh vegetables in it. It even goes with French fries, potato chips, or toasted Indian pappadums (see page 16).