If I were to name the single most popular dish for cooking on a contact grill, I’d say hamburgers. The manufacturers of the Foreman grill seem to back me up on this—they measure the various sizes of their grills by how many burgers you can cook on each at one time. This chapter gets right to the meat of the matter with a bacon and smoked Cheddar cheeseburger, a New Mexican green chile burger, and a South Carolina barbecue pork burger with a mustard barbecue sauce. Looking for something more unusual? How about a Greek-inspired lamb burger or a chile-spiced turkey burger from Oaxaca? Finally, for folks with a hankering for fish, there’s a Thai tuna burger.
Some months ago, I had steak tartare at a restaurant in Buenos Aires. It had been a long while since I’d ordered this dish, and the notion of eating beef raw seemed daring, even audacious. But Argentinean cattle are fed exclusively on grass, so the risks associated with beef in other countries are greatly reduced. Here’s a way to enjoy the robust flavor of a steak tartare—the salty tang of capers and anchovies; the pungency of shallots and mustard—without the raw beef. SERVES 4
1½ pounds ground beef sirloin or chuck
1 large shallot, minced (3 to 4 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons drained capers
2 to 4 anchovy fillets, drained, blotted dry, and finely chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 quail eggs (optional; see Note)
Cooking oil spray
1 bunch arugula leaves, rinsed and spun dry
4 slices dense white sandwich bread or rye bread, grilled or toasted
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. They will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
1. Place the ground beef, shallot, parsley, capers, anchovies, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl and stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the beef mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill. The patties can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead.
2. Grill the burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box, until cooked through. See the box for doneness tests. Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm.
3. Fry the quail eggs in a nonstick pan coated with cooking oil spray.
4. Place some arugula leaves on each slice of toast. Top each with a burger, then slide a fried quail egg onto each burger.
NOTE: Quail eggs are available at many supermarkets and specialty food stores, but I’ve made them optional here.
Unlike chicken eggs, quail eggs are difficult to crack in half. To do this, hold each egg upright (narrow end up) in one hand. Using the cutting edge of a paring knife, knock off the top ¼ inch of shell (this may take several whacks). Pour the egg into the heated oiled skillet and fry it. It will take 1 to 2 minutes.
If you use commercially ground hamburger meat, I strongly recommend that you cook it through, meaning done to medium so there’s no trace of red in the center. But how do you tell when a burger is cooked through? Use one of the following three tests.
1. Use the poke test: Press the center of the burger with the tip of your index finger—it should feel mostly firm, with just the slightest bit of yield in the center.
2. Take the burger’s temperature: Insert the probe of an instant-read meat thermometer through the side of the burger (you won’t get an accurate reading if the probe is inserted through the top). The internal temperature should be at least 160°F for beef and pork burgers and at least 170°F for poultry burgers. Tuna burgers, when made with sushi-quality tuna, can be served rare or medium-rare.
3. Make a small cut in the center of the burger with the tip of a paring knife. There should be no traces of red and only the faintest blush of pink in the center. Use this method sparingly, as each cut will release tasty juices. When serving the burger, place the cut side down.
Some establishments serve rare hamburgers, but to ensure safety, it’s likely they grind their meat fresh daily on the premises. If you’re willing to do this, you can cook and serve your burgers to whatever degree of doneness you desire—even rare.
The burger plays an iconic role in American gastronomy. Every region reinterprets the basic recipe—case in point, these green chile burgers from New Mexico. The burgers owe their kick to roasted New Mexican green chiles. There’s a double dose of chiles, first in the form of rajas, roasted chile strips spooned over the burgers, then in a classic New Mexican salsa verde—green chile sauce. SERVES 4
The chiles of choice for both the salsa and burger topping are the long, slender, mild New Mexican green chiles. If they’re not available, you can use Anaheim chiles or, for a bit more punch and fire, poblano peppers. You can grill the chiles ahead of time (they’ll keep, covered, in the refrigerator for several days).
½ cup roasted New Mexican green chiles, Anaheim chiles, or poblano peppers cut into ¼-inch strips (4 to 5 chiles; see box)
4 ounces white Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated (about 1 cup)
1½ pounds ground beef sirloin or chuck
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
4 hamburger buns
2 tablespoons olive oil
New Mexican Salsa Verde (recipe follows)
There are several ways to roast chiles: on a built-in or fireplace grill; in a grill pan; or in a hot, ungreased cast-iron skillet (a contact grill doesn’t get hot enough). MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
1½ pounds New Mexican green chiles, Anaheim chiles, or poblano peppers
1. Using one of the cooking methods mentioned above, grill the chiles until the skins are black and blistered on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side (8 to 12 minutes in all). Transfer the roasted chiles to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap (this helps loosen the skins), and let cool to room temperature.
2. Using a paring knife, scrape the skins off the chiles. Cut the chiles in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. The chiles are now ready to be used in a recipe.
1. Place the chile strips in a serving bowl and stir in the Cheddar. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
2. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the ground beef into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
3. Generously, and I mean generously, season each patty on both sides with salt and black pepper. Grill the burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box at right, until the burgers are cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests. Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
4. Brush the cut sides of the hamburger buns with the olive oil. Place the buns on the hot grill, cut side down, and, lowering the temperature if necessary, grill until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. You may need to work in batches.
5. Place each of the burgers on the bottom half of a bun and top each with a quarter of the chile and cheese mixture. Spoon some salsa verde over each, top with the other half of the bun, and serve at once.
This fragrant, mild, green salsa is a staple—no, the very lifeblood—of New Mexican cooking. I’ve kept it simple, so you can appreciate the flavor of the chiles. This makes a bit more salsa than you can comfortably fit on the burgers. Spoon about two tablespoons on each and serve the rest in a bowl on the side for people to help themselves. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
4 cloves garlic (leave the skins on), skewered on a wooden toothpick or small bamboo skewer
1 cup roasted New Mexican green chiles or Anaheim chiles cut into ¼-inch strips (8 to 10 chiles; see box)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. They will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Broil the garlic cloves until they are lightly browned and tender, 2 to 3 minutes per side (4 to 6 minutes in all).
3. Scrape any really burnt skin off the garlic. Place the garlic, chile strips, cilantro, lime juice, cumin, oregano, and 4 tablespoons of water in a blender and purée until smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender with a spatula.
4. Transfer the salsa to a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Let simmer until thick and flavorful, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. The salsa should be thick (roughly the consistency of heavy cream) but pourable; add more water as needed. Taste for seasoning, adding more lime juice as necessary and salt and pepper to taste; the salsa should be highly seasoned.
The secret to a succulent burger is to start with ground beef that’s not too lean. I like ground sirloin (or a mixture of ground sirloin and ground chuck) that has about 15 percent fat.
The chief drawback to indoor grilling is that you can’t get the smoke flavor associated with grilling over charcoal or wood outdoors. Or can you? By adding bacon and smoked cheddar cheese to the ground beef you end up with a burger bursting with a smoke flavor that’s reinforced by a smoky chipotle mayonnaise. The bacon and cheese go right into the meat, not on top, so they keep the burgers moist, even when they’re cooked through. SERVES 4
A great burger requires using your grill at least twice—to grill the buns and to cook the burgers. If you want to get fancy, you can also grill the onions, peppers, chiles, and/or ham or bacon. All of this is pretty manageable on an outside grill, but it requires some choreography to cook them on an indoor grill, especially a small grill, like a contact grill or grill pan. So here’s the proper sequence.
1. First, grill any vegetables you want to use—onions, peppers, chiles. These don’t have to be piping hot and can be grilled well in advance.
2. Grill the bacon ahead of time—especially if you plan to crumble it into the ground meat to make the New Cheeseburgers above or the South Carolina pork burgers on page 164. In this case the bacon should be cool.
3. Grill the buns or bread. Keep them warm in a cloth-lined bread basket. The exception here is tortillas, which only take a few seconds to warm.
4. Grill the burgers. Keep them warm.
If you have a small indoor grill, work in several batches. There’s nothing worse than crowding the grill.
4 thick slices or 6 to 8 thin slices bacon (4 ounces in all)
1½ pounds ground beef sirloin or chuck
6 ounces smoked cheddar or other smoked cheese, coarsely grated (about 1½ cups)
1 clove garlic, minced
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and plenty of freshly grated black pepper
4 hamburger buns
2 tablespoons butter (optional), melted
Arugula leaves
Ripe tomato slices
Sweet onion slices
Pickle slices
Chipotle Mayonnaise (recipe follows)
1. Place the bacon in a large heavy skillet and cook over medium-high heat until deeply browned and crisp on both sides, 8 minutes total. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain and let cool to room temperature.
2. Crumble or finely chop the bacon, then place it in a mixing bowl. Add the ground beef, cheddar, and garlic, then stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the meat mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place on a plate lined with plastic wrap. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
3. Season each patty on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill the burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box above, until cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests. Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
4. Brush the cut sides of the hamburger buns with the melted butter, if using. Place the buns on the hot grill, cut side down, and, lowering the temperature if necessary, grill until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. You may need to work in batches.
5. Place each of the burgers on the bottom half of a bun and top them with arugula, tomato, onion, pickle, and a dollop of the Chipotle Mayonnaise. Top with the other half of the bun and serve at once.
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook the burgers, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
NOTE: Neither a contact grill nor a freestanding grill can grill bacon properly. You’ll need to fry the bacon crisp in a skillet, over medium heat for about 5 minutes on the first side and 3 minutes on the second side.
Chipotles are smoked jalapeño peppers and they’re also one of the few foods I recommend buying canned. The reason is simple—canned chipotles come in an intensely flavorful vinegar sauce called adobo, so when you use the canned peppers you get the added benefit of the sauce. Look for canned chipotles at Hispanic markets and specialty food shops. MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
½ cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)
1 to 2 canned chipotle peppers, minced, with 1 tablespoon of their adobo sauce
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
Place the mayonnaise, chipotle(s), and paprika in a small nonreactive bowl and whisk to mix. If not serving at once, cover and refrigerate. The mayonnaise will keep for several days, covered, in the refrigerator.
• To get the best flavor, use an artisanal, country-style smoked bacon, like Smithfield or Nueske’s Hillcrest Farm (you can cook the bacon ahead of time).
• I call for smoked cheddar here, but you could also use a smoked mozzarella or Scamorza.
These cheeseburgers acquire Tex-Mex overtones thanks to cumin, cilantro, and cheese—Jack cheese laced with jalapeño peppers. Most cheeseburger recipes call for you to place a slice of cheese on top of the hot burgers, but I like to put the cheese inside, adding grated pepper Jack to the ground beef. The melting cheese keeps the burgers moist, even when they’re cooked to medium. SERVES 4
The cheese in the burgers does have a tendency to stick to the grill. This is not a problem with contact grills that have nonstick surfaces. If your grill doesn’t, make sure to oil the grate or grill plates well.
1½ pounds ground beef sirloin or chuck
4 ounces pepper Jack cheese, coarsely grated (about 1 cup)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
4 hamburger buns
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups shredded iceberg lettuce
1 medium-size ripe red tomato, thinly sliced
Pickled jalapeño pepper slices
Slow-Burn Jalapeño Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Place the ground beef, cheese, cilantro, and cumin in a mixing bowl and stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the beef mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Season each patty on both sides with salt and pepper, then place on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
2. Grill the burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box at right, until cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests. Remove the burgers from the grill and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
3. Brush the cut sides of the hamburger buns with the olive oil. Place the buns on the hot grill, cut side down, and, lowering the temperature if necessary, grill until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. You may need to work in batches.
4. Place each of the burgers on the bottom half of a bun, then top them with some of the lettuce, tomato, jalapeño pepper slices, and a dollop of Slow-Burn Jalapeño Sauce. Top with the other half of the bun and serve at once.
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
This sauce is a hottie, so use it sparingly. I’ve given a range of jalapeños: two will give you a baby hot sauce; six a volcanic bruiser. Either way, it will burn low and slow for a while. For an even hotter sauce, leave the seeds in the jalapeños. MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
2 to 6 jalapeño peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
½ teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste
Place the jalapeños, cilantro, garlic, cumin, lime juice, salt, and ¼ cup water in a blender. Purée until smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender with a spatula; add more water as needed for a smooth consistency. Taste for seasoning, adding more lime juice and/or salt as necessary.
These smoky burgers were inspired by traditional Carolina pulled pork (shredded smoked pork shoulder). They even contain a version of “brownies”—dark crisp flecks of smoke-roasted pork skin—in this case, browned bits of bacon that are mixed into the ground pork. The burgers are served with a tangy honey mustard sauce, just like you’d find in South Carolina. Think of these pork burgers as Southern barbecue without the wait. SERVES 4
You can grill the bacon directly on a contact grill. Lay the strips on the grill grate and close the lid. Cook until browned and crisp, 2 to 4 minutes.
2 slices bacon
1½ pounds lean ground pork
1 teaspoon liquid smoke (see box on page 179)
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon celery seed
8 slices white sandwich bread, toasted
1 cup finely chopped or shredded green cabbage
Honey Mustard Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Place the bacon in a medium-size skillet and cook over medium-high heat until deeply browned and crisp on both sides, 8 minutes total. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain and let cool to room temperature.
2. Crumble or finely chop the bacon, then place it in a mixing bowl. Add the pork, liquid smoke, salt, pepper, paprika, brown sugar, onion and garlic powders, and celery seed, then stir with a wooden spoon to mix.
3. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the pork mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
4. Grill the pork burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box at right, until cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests.
5. Place a burger on a slice of toast. Top it with ¼ cup of the shredded cabbage and a generous dollop (about 2 tablespoons) of Honey Mustard Barbecue Sauce. Top with another piece of toast. Repeat with the remaining burgers and toppings, then serve at once.
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. They will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
In South Carolina barbecue sauce is a sweet but sharp, tangy combination of honey or brown sugar, mustard, and vinegar. If you’re used to a sweet, red Kansas City–style sauce, this one will come as a revelation. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
2 slices bacon, cut crosswide into ¼-inch slivers
½ medium-size onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup)
⅓ cup honey
⅓ cup Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons cider vinegar, or more to taste
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
1. Melt the butter in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon and onion and cook until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Pour off any excess fat (for a richer sauce, leave it in).
2. Add the honey, mustard, and cider vinegar to the saucepan and stir to mix. Reduce the heat to medium-low, bring to a simmer, and cook the sauce until thick and flavorful, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Taste for seasoning, adding more vinegar, if necessary, and salt and pepper to taste (see Note).
NOTE: This recipe makes more barbecue sauce than you’ll need for 4 burgers. The extra sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for several days and is delicious spooned over hot or cold grilled chicken or sliced pork. Reheat the sauce over low heat before serving.
Grilled ground meat patties are a constant on the world’s barbecue trail. The type of meat varies from region to region. Greek grill masters use ground lamb instead of beef, as do those in the Balkans, Asia Minor, the Middle East, and central Asia. These lamb burgers buzz with Greek flavors—garlic, oregano, and mint. A refreshing tzatziki—yogurt cucumber dip—is the sauce. To complete the Greek theme, the burgers are served on pita bread instead of buns. SERVES 4
• Ground lamb is available at butcher shops and more and more frequently at supermarkets. Another good source is a halal (Muslim kosher) or Middle Eastern market.
• For an interesting variation on these burgers, tuck a piece of goat cheese or feta cheese in the center of each before grilling.
1½ pounds ground lamb
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, or 2 teaspoons dried mint
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Greek)
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 pita breads
4 rinsed romaine lettuce leaves
4 paper-thin slices red onion (optional)
1 medium-size cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium-size ripe tomato, thinly sliced
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Place the ground lamb, chopped onion, garlic, mint, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl and stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the mixture in 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
2. Grill the lamb burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box at right, until cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests. Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
3. Place the pita breads on the hot grill, and, lowering the temperature and working in batches, if necessary, grill until toasted, about 1 minute on a contact grill; 1 minute per side on any of the other indoor grills.
4. Cut a slit in each pita. Place a lettuce leaf inside, followed by a burger, an onion slice, if using, some cucumber and tomato slices, and a generous dollop of yogurt sauce. Serve at once.
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
In keeping with the widespread popularity of the lamb burger, I offer an equally widespread and popular condiment—a garlic-cucumber yogurt sauce known as tzatziki in Greece, cajik in Turkey, and raita in India. For the best results, use whole-milk yogurt. If you can’t find it in the supermarket, it’s available at natural foods stores or Middle Eastern or Greek grocery stores. MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
1 medium-size cucumber
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint, or 1 teaspoon dried mint
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Peel the cucumber and cut it in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds with a melon baller or spoon. Coarsely grate the cucumber.
2. Place the garlic and salt in a mixing bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a spoon. Stir in the grated cucumber, yogurt, olive oil, and mint. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, if necessary, and pepper to taste; the sauce should be highly seasoned.
The southeastern state of Oaxaca is home to some of Mexico’s most soulful cooking—moles replete with roasted vegetables, nuts, and chiles; cecina (grilled cured pork); carne asada (grilled beef); even fire-roasted corn served sizzling off the embers. These turkey burgers didn’t originate in Mexico (although turkey was native to Central America and much prized by the Aztecs), but they are flavored with spices and seasonings that are characteristic of Oaxacan cooking. I think you’ll find that the combination of roasted pumpkin, sesame, and cumin seeds makes the burgers irresistible. SERVES 4
Ground turkey comes in many grades, some quite lean and others unpleasantly fatty. I find that white meat turkey with 8 to 10 percent fat makes the best burgers.
3 tablespoons shelled pumpkin seeds
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1½ pounds lean ground turkey
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon pure chile powder, preferably ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 flour tortillas (each 10 inches)
Chipotle Salsa (page 371)
8 ounces jicama, peeled and cut into matchstick slivers
1 medium-size avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 7 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking 4 to 6 minutes per side.
1. Heat a small skillet (not a nonstick skillet) over medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and cook until fragrant and lightly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan to ensure even toasting. Transfer the pumpkin seeds to a heatproof mixing bowl. Add the sesame seeds to the skillet and toast until fragrant and lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the sesame seeds to the mixing bowl. Add the cumin seeds to the skillet and toast until fragrant and lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the cumin seeds to the mixing bowl. Let all the seeds cool to room temperature.
2. Place the turkey in the bowl with the toasted seeds. Add the cilantro, scallion, garlic, chile powder, salt, coriander, cinnamon, and pepper and stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide the mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
3. Grill the turkey burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box, until cooked through. See the box on page 157 for doneness tests. Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
4. Place the tortillas on the hot grill, and, lowering the temperature and working in batches, if necessary, grill until toasted, about 1 minute on a contact grill; 1 minute per side on any of the other indoor grills.
5. Place a burger on one side of each tortilla. Spoon some Chipotle Salsa over each burger and top with a sprinkling of jicama and avocado. Fold the tortillas over the burgers and serve at once.
These offbeat tuna burgers are inspired by a Thai fried fish patty called tod mun pla. The meaty fish matches up great with a Thai cucumber salad, which stands in for the pickles that go with a conventional hamburger, while the fire-breathing condiment—Chile Peanut Tartar Sauce—makes the standard ketchup quake in the corner. SERVES 4
FOR THE CUCUMBER SALAD:
2 Kirby (pickling) cucumbers, thinly sliced
¼ medium-size red onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
1 scant teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
3 tablespoons rice vinegar or distilled white vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE BURGERS:
1½ pounds super-fresh red tuna
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons grated peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sugar
4 fresh basil leaves, thinly slivered
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 Thai chile or serrano pepper, seeded and minced (for hotter burgers, leave the seeds in)
2 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce, or more to taste
FOR SERVING:
4 hamburger buns
2 tablespoons Asian (dark) sesame oil
Chile Peanut Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)
CONTACT GRILL: Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the burgers on the hot grill, then gently close the lid. The burgers will be done after cooking about 3 minutes.
GRILL PAN: Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to medium-high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the burgers in the hot grill pan. The burgers will be done after cooking about 3 minutes per side.
BUILT-IN GRILL: Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking about 3 minutes per side.
FREESTANDING GRILL: Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the burgers on the hot grill. The burgers will be done after cooking about 4 minutes per side.
FIREPLACE GRILL: Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the burgers on the hot grate. The burgers will be done after cooking about 3 minutes per side.
1. Make the cucumber salad: Place the cucumbers, onion, sugar, salt, and vinegar in a nonreactive bowl and toss to mix. Season the salad with pepper to taste. Let the salad stand for 1 hour at room temperature, tossing it again once or twice.
2. Make the burgers: Trim any skin or dark or bloody spots off the tuna. Rinse the tuna under cold running water, then blot it dry with paper towels. Finely chop the tuna by hand (you’ll get the best consistency this way) or in a food processor. If using a food processor, cut the tuna into ½-inch chunks, don’t fill the processor bowl more than a quarter full, and run the machine in short bursts.
3. Place the garlic, ginger, and sugar in a mixing bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a spoon. Add the chopped tuna, and the basil, cilantro, Thai chile, and fish sauce and stir with a wooden spoon just to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding more fish sauce as necessary (it’s OK to taste high-quality tuna raw). Divide the tuna mixture into 4 even portions and shape into patties. Place the patties on a plate lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.
4. Grill the tuna burgers, following the instructions for any of the grills in the box, until cooked to medium-rare. When done, the burgers will be cooked at the edges but still pink in the center when tested with a knife (unlike hamburgers, it’s safe to serve tuna burgers medium-rare). Remove the burgers and cover to keep warm. Leave the grill on.
5. To serve: Brush the cut sides of the buns with the sesame oil. Place the buns on the hot grill, cut side down, and, lowering the temperature if necessary, grill until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. You may need to work in batches.
6. Spoon some Chile Peanut Tartar Sauce onto the bottom half of each bun. Place a tuna burger on top. Using a slotted spoon, spoon some cucumber salad onto each burger, then top with the other half of the bun and serve at once.
• Use sushi-quality tuna, so you can serve the burgers medium-rare.
• Fish sauce is a malodorous but tasty condiment made from fermented anchovies. It is available at Asian markets, gourmet shops, and a growing number of supermarkets. The best brands come in glass bottles. If fish sauce is unavailable or off-putting, you can substitute soy sauce.
East meets West in this explosively flavorful tartar sauce, which goes great with any sort of grilled seafood. A good tool for grating ginger is a Microplane—a grater that looks like a file with razor-sharp slits. It’s also useful for grating lemon zest, the oil-rich yellow rind of the lemon. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
1 cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)
1 to 2 Thai chiles or serrano peppers, seeded and minced (for a hotter sauce, leave the seeds in)
2 tablespoons finely chopped dry-roasted peanuts
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
1 tablespoon fish sauce or soy sauce, or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Place the mayonnaise, chile(s), peanuts, cilantro, ginger, lemon zest, lemon juice, and fish sauce in a nonreactive mixing bowl and whisk to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding more lemon juice and/or fish sauce as necessary and pepper to taste. Any leftover sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.