Península de Osa
Península de Osa at a Glance…
The steamy coastal jungles of the Península de Osa encompass some of the country’s least-explored land. Monkeys, sloths and coatis roam the region’s abundant parks and reserves, and in Parque Nacional Corcovado there’s also the rare chance to spy on slumbering tapirs. Meanwhile, the rugged coast captivates travelers with abandoned wilderness beaches, world-class surf and opportunities for rugged exploration.
Two Days in Península de Osa
Hire a guide for a day of hiking and wildlife-watching in Parque Nacional Corcovado or explore the Agujitas-Corcovado coastal trail along Bahía Drake. Spend your second day watching cetaceans or scuba diving with Drake Divers, or just swimming and snorkeling at the local beaches.
Four Days in Península de Osa
On day three, return to Jiménez for a celebratory breakfast at Restaurante Monka then retreat to Playa Platanares for recovery. Your fourth day is free to spend waterfall rappelling with Psycho Tours or learning about the cultivation of chocolate at Finca Köbö.
Arriving in Península de Osa
Getting to Osa requires one of two things: lots of patience or flying in. Given the reasonable cost of flights, a good option for exploring the peninsula is to fly if your time is limited (you can then rent a vehicle in Puerto Jiménez). If you choose to drive, you’ll need a 4WD and plenty of confidence: many roads in Osa are extremely poor and there are river crossings involved.
Sleeping
Jiménez has the best range of accommodations in the area, many geared toward Corcovado-bound backpackers. Top-end options tend to be located on the outskirts of town. Some of the best wilderness lodges are found in Bahía Drake, as well as Cabo Matapalo and Carate. This area is off the grid, so some places do not have electricity around the clock or hot water; top-end lodges have their own generators.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Hiking in Corcovado
Corcovado’s amazing biodiversity as well as the park’s demanding, multiday hiking trails attract a stream of visitors who descend from Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez to experience a bona fide jungle adventure.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The chance to see a rare Baird’s tapir in its natural habitat near Sirena station.
8Need to Know
Área de Conservación Osa ACOSA; Osa Conservation Area Headquarters; 
%2735-5036; Corcovado park fee per person per day US$15; 
h8am-4pm Mon-Fri
5Take a Break
Make reservations in advance to camp and eat at Sirena ranger station.
oTop Tip
Hiking is best in the dry season (from December to April), though still muddy.
Hiking Trails
There are three main trails in the park that are open to visitors, as well as shorter trails around the ranger stations. Trails are primitive and the hiking is hot, humid and insect-ridden, but the challenge of the trek and the interaction with wildlife at Corcovado are thrilling. Carry plenty of food, water and insect repellent.
One trail traverses the park from Los Patos to Sirena, then exits the park at La Leona (or vice versa). This allows hikers to begin and end their journey in or near Puerto Jiménez, offering easy access to La Leona and Los Patos. The most popular trail, however, is still La Leona to Sirena, with an additional trail section running parallel to the beach trail for those who don’t want to expose themselves to the relentless sun. The toughest day trek is from La Tarde to Sirena via Los Patos – a whopping 30km.
An El Tigre trail loop has been added that starts in Dos Brazos and dips into the park but doesn’t join up with the rest of the trail network; you still have to pay the full park fee to hike it, though.
La Leona to Sirena
The largely flat 16km hike (five to seven hours) follows the shoreline through coastal forest and along deserted beaches. Take plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen. It involves one major river crossing at Río Claro, just south of Sirena, and there’s an excellent chance of seeing monkeys, tapirs and scarlet macaws en route. La Leona is an additional 3.5km to Carate.
A trail running parallel to this trail allows you to avoid the tramp along the beach.
Sirena to Los Patos
This trail goes 18km through the heart of Corcovado, passing through primary and secondary forest, and is relatively flat for the first 12km. After you wade through two river tributaries before reaching the Laguna Corcovado, the route undulates steeply (mostly uphill!) for the remaining 6km. It’s easier to do this trek in the opposite direction.
Sendero El Tigre
Part of this 8km loop trail passes through Parque Nacional Corcovado, so a guide is mandatory. It’s a fairly rugged trail, part of which passes through an ancient indigenous burial ground; be prepared to spend the best part of a day hiking it. It’s doable as a day trip yet gives you a good taste of the park.
Tour Guides
All visitors to Corcovado must be accompanied by an ICT-certified guide. Besides their intimate knowledge of the trails, local guides are amazingly informed about flora and fauna, including the best places to spot various species.
Osa Wild (map Google map %8709-1083, 8376-1152, 2735-5848; www.osawildtravel.com; 80m west of Corcovado BM Supermarket; tours from US$30, 1-day Corcovado tour US$85; h8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon &1-4pm Sat & Sun) connects with community-oriented initiatives, going to the heart of the real Osa through homestays, farm tours and sustainable cultural exchanges. It also offers kayaking tours and guided trips through Corcovado.
Run by Mike Boston, a biologist with a passion for nature, Osa Aventura (%8372-6135, 2735-5670; www.osaaventura.com) aims to introduce travelers to the beauty of rainforest life and to raise awareness of the need to preserve Corcovado’s unique environment. Adventures vary from three-day treks through Corcovado to a new tour that focuses on Golfo Dulce’s rural communities. Custom tours are also available.
A trio of excellent guides makes Surcos Tours (map Google map %8603-2387, 2237-4189; www.surcostours.com) the best into Osa for wildlife and bird-watching. Tours vary from day hikes in Corcovado and Matapalo to multiday experiences in Corcovado and specialized birding tours. Arrangements for tours are made through the website.
Leading tours into Corcovado and Isla del Caño, all guides with Corcovado Info Center (%2775-0916, 8846-4734; www.corcovadoinfocenter.com; whale-watching/Corcovado day tours US$110/90) are local, bilingual and ICT-certified. It’s at the beach end of the main road in Agujitas.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Wildlife-Watching
This bastion of biological diversity is home to half of Costa Rica’s native species, including the largest population of scarlet macaws, as well as countless other endangered species.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The hard-to-spot silky anteater frequents the beachside forests between the Río Claro and Sirena station.
5Take a Break
Make arrangements in advance to camp and eat at Sirena Ranger Station.
oTop Tip
Corcovado is the only national park in Costa Rica that is home to all four of the country’s primate species.
The best wildlife-watching in Corcovado is around Sirena, but the coastal trails have two advantages: they are more open, and the constant crashing of waves covers the sound of noisy walkers. White-faced capuchins, red-tailed squirrels, collared peccaries, white-nosed coatis, tapirs and northern tamandua are regularly seen on all of these trails.
Coastal Trails
Besides the park trail between Sirena and La Leona ranger stations, there is an additional coastal trail that runs 17km – mostly outside the park – from Bahía Drake to San Pedrillo station. These coastal trails produce an endless pageant of birds. Sightings of scarlet macaws are guaranteed, as the tropical almond trees lining the coast are a favorite food. The sections along the beach shelter mangrove black hawks by the dozens, and numerous waterbird species.
Los Patos–Sirena Trail
The Los Patos–Sirena trail attracts lowland rainforest birds such as great curassows, chestnut-mandibled toucans, fiery-billed aracaris and rufous piha. Encounters with mixed flocks are common.
All of the typical mammals get spotted here, but Los Patos is better for primates. Indeed, the Los Platos–Sirena trail is the best place to see the country’s most endangered monkey, the Central American squirrel monkey. It’s also excellent for other herbivores, particularly red brockets and both species of peccaries.
Sirena Station
For wildlife-watchers frustrated at the difficulty of seeing rainforest mammals, a stay at Sirena ranger station (dm US$30) is a must. Baird’s tapirs are practically assured – a statement that can be made at few other places in the world. This endangered and distant relative of the rhinoceros is frequently spotted grazing along the airstrip after dusk. Agoutis and tayras are also common.
Jaguars are spotted extremely rarely, as their population in the Osa is suspected to be in the single digits. Ocelots represent your best chance for observing a cat, but again, don’t get your hopes up. At night look for kinkajous and crab-eating skunks (especially at the mouth of the Río Sirena).
You might see any or all of the four monkey species, especially the more common species: Spider monkey, mantled howler and white-faced capuchin.
The Río Sirena is a popular spot for American crocodiles, three-toed sloths and bull sharks.
Puerto Jiménez
Sliced in half by the swampy, overgrown Quebrada Cacao, and flanked on one side by the emerald waters of the Golfo Dulce, the vaguely Wild West outpost of Puerto Jiménez is shared by local residents and wildlife. While walking through the dusty streets of Jiménez (as it’s known to locals), it’s not unusual to spot scarlet macaws roosting on the soccer field, or white-faced capuchins traversing the treetops along the main street.
On the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado, Jiménez is the preferred jumping-off point for travelers heading to the famed Sirena ranger station, and a great place to organize an expedition, stock up on supplies, eat a hot meal and get a good night’s rest before hitting the trails.
Despite the region’s largest and most diverse offering of hotels, restaurants and other tourist services, this town, at its core, is a close-knit Tico community.
1Sights
Playa PlatanaresBeach
About 5km east of town, the long, secluded – and often deserted – Playa Platanares is excellent for swimming, sunning and recovering from too much adventure. The nearby mangroves of Río Platanares are a paradise for kayaking and birdwatching. Take the road that runs parallel to the airstrip.
TTours
Psycho ToursAdventure
(Everyday Adventures; %8428-3904; www.psychotours.com; tours US$55-130)
Witty, energetic naturalist Andy Pruter runs Psycho Tours, which offers high-adrenaline adventures in Cabo Matapalo. His signature tour is tree climbing (US$65 per person): scaling a 60m ficus tree, aptly named ‘Cathedral.’ Also popular – and definitely adrenaline-inducing – is waterfall rappelling (US$95) down cascades ranging from 15m to 30m. The best one? The tree-climbing/waterfall combo tour (US$130).
For the tamer of heart, excellent three- to four-hour guided nature walks (US$50) tap into the extensive knowledge base of Andy and his staff members.
Aventuras TropicalesAdventure
(map Google map; %2735-5195; www.aventurastropicales.com)
Aventuras Tropicales is a professional, Tico-run operation that offers all sorts of active adventures. Some of its most popular excursions include kayaking tours of the mangroves, which cost US$45 per person. Located 2km east on the road to Platanares.
Osa CorcovadoAdventure
(%8632-8150; www.soldeosa.com; Hwy 245; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri)
This operator offers anything from three-day Corcovado hikes to kayaking in the mangroves, sunset kayak dolphin-watching tours on the Golfo Dulce (US$75) and Matapalo day hikes.
7Shopping
Jagua Arts & CraftsArts & Crafts
(map Google map; %2735-5267; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat)
A terrific, well-stocked crafts shop, featuring local art and jewelry, a wonderful collection of high-quality, colorful Boruca masks and black-and-ocher Guaitil pottery, as well as woven goods by the Emberá and Wounaan people. Kuna weavings technically belong across the border in Panama, but they make excellent gifts.
Artes de OsaArts & Crafts
(map Google map; %2735-5317; h7am-7pm)
This locally run souvenir shop has interesting handmade carvings, furniture and other handicrafts, all made by Costa Rican artisans.
5Eating
The restaurant scene in Puerto Jiménez is surprisingly subdued considering all the tourist traffic passing through, though there are a couple of welcome newish additions to the scene, and seafood is big.
Restaurante MonkaCosta Rican$
(map Google map; %2735-5051; mains US$5-7; h6am-8pm; 
W
v)
Bright and airy and the best breakfast spot in town, Monka does excellent cold coffee drinks, smoothies and extensive breakfast platters, from American-style, involving bacon and pancakes, to Mexican-style huevos rancheros. The rest of the day you can fill up on good, inexpensive casados. Several breakfast options and casados are vegetarian.
Restaurant y Bar LozaariCosta Rican$
(map Google map; %8795-6861; mains US$3-10; h6am-9pm; W)
This adorable little Costa Rican restaurant is tucked back in a plaza, filled with plants and adorned with pretty paper lanterns. The breakfast is super cheap and delicious, and best taken at a picnic table in the lush garden out back. Favorites include gallo pinto (beans and rice) with eggs, fried plantains and natural fruit juices.
Restaurant CarolinaCosta Rican$
(map Google map; %2735-5185; dishes US$3-8; h6am-10pm; W)
This local favorite on the main drag still attracts its share of expats, nature guides, tourists and locals. Expect Tico standards, fresh-fruit drinks, extensive breakfasts, good coffee and cold beers that go down pretty easily on a hot day.
Restaurante Agua DulceInternational$$
(map Google map; www.aguadulcehotel.com; Agua Dulce Beach Resort; mains from US$8; h7am-10pm; Wv)
This breezy restaurant, on the premises of Agua Dulce Beach Resort on Playa Platanares, is a trusted spot for imaginative pasta dishes, grilled fish and ample breakfasts, although the service is positively languid. There are various vegetarian pasta dishes and salads.
La Perla de OsaInternational$$
(map Google map; %8829-5865; mains US$10-17; h11am-8pm; 
pWv)
On the grounds of Iguana Lodge, this jungle-fringed restaurant-bar is locally (and justifiably) famous for its cocktails, accompanied by such delectable nibbles as pulled-pork tacos, grilled Asian-style tuna and shrimp plates. Very popular with locals on weekends, and there are also vegetarian soups, salads and meat-free pasta mains.
Pizzamail.itPizza$$
(map Google map; %2735-5483; pizzas US$10-20; h2-10:30pm; Wv)
While this pizzeria’s name sounds more like a website, all doubts will be cast aside when a server at Pizzamail.it brings out the pie: a thin-crust, wood-fired piece of Italy in the middle of the jungle. From its small patio diners can watch squawking macaws in the trees over the soccer pitch. Several pizza options are meat-free. Bellissimo!
Il GiardinoItalian$$
(map Google map; %2735-5129; www.ilgiardinoitalianrestaurant.com; meals US$11-16; h7am-10pm)
While the possibly overextended menu touts steaks and sushi as offerings, Il Giardino shines when it sticks to Italian specialties – homemade pasta, gnocchi and pizza. Although the service and cuisine can be somewhat inconsistent, there’s a reliably romantic and candlelit waterfront ambience. The restaurant also contains three well-kept rooms (US$40 including breakfast) with views of a mangrove swamp.
8INFORMATION
Área de Conservación Osa (ACOSA; Osa Conservation Area Headquarters; %2735-5036; Corcovado park fee per person per day US$15; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) has information about Parque Nacional Corcovado, Isla del Caño, Parque Nacional Marino Ballena and Golfito parks and reserves.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
The airstrip is to the east of town. During research it was closed for maintenance, but should have reopened by now.
NatureAir (%2735-5062; www.natureair.com; h6am-2pm) and Sansa (%2735-5890; www.flysansa.com) have flights to/from San José (50 minutes, up to four daily); one-way flights are anywhere from US$59 to US$129. NatureAir also does the puddle jumper to Golfito (10 minutes, daily).
Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (%8632-8150, 2735-5353; www.alfaromeoair.com) has light aircraft (for three and five passengers) for charter flights to Golfito, Carate, Drake, Sirena, Palmar Sur, Quepos and Limón. Prices are dependent on the number of passengers, so it’s best to try to organize a larger group if you’re considering this option. Sometimes, if there’s already a trip planned into the park, the cost can be as low as US$60 per person.
Puerto Jiménez is now connected to the rest of the country by a beautifully paved road. You can rent a vehicle from Solid Car Rental (%2735-5777; www.solidcarrental.com; h7am-4pm). If you’re driving to Carate or Matapalo, you’ll need a 4WD; be sure to fill up at the gas station in Jiménez.
8GETTING AROUND
If you’re driving to Carate (the entrance to Corcovado) you’ll need a 4WD, even in the dry season, as there are several streams to ford, as well as a river. Assuming you don’t have valuables in sight, you can leave your car at the pulpería (corner store; per night US$5) and hike to La Leona station (1½ hours).
The colectivo (US$9) departs Puerto Jiménez for Carate at 6am and 1:30pm, returning at 8:30am and 3:30pm. Note that it often fills up on its return trip to Puerto Jiménez, especially during the dry season. Arrive at least 30 minutes ahead of time or you might find yourself stranded. Alternatively, catch a taxi from Puerto Jiménez (US$80).
Bahía Drake
One of Costa Rica’s most isolated destinations, Bahía Drake (drah-kay) is a veritable Lost World, bordered by Parque Nacional Corcovado to the south. In the rainforest canopy, howlers greet the rising sun with their haunting bellows, while pairs of macaws soar between the treetops, filling the air with their cacophonous squawking. Offshore in the bay, pods of migrating dolphins glide through turquoise waters near the beautiful Isla del Caño marine reserve.
One of the reasons why Bahía Drake is brimming with wildlife is that it remains largely cut off from the rest of the country. Life is centered on the sedate village of Agujitas, the area’s transport hub, which attracts increasing numbers of backpackers and nature-lovers with inexpensive digs and plenty of snorkeling, diving and wildlife-watching opportunities. The more remote corners of Bahía Drake are home to some of Costa Rica’s best (and priciest) wilderness lodges.
Snorkel & Scuba Drake Bay
Isla del Caño (US$10, diving charge US$4) is one of Costa Rica’s top spots for diving, with attractions including intricate rock and coral formations and an amazing array of underwater life. Divers report that the schools of fish swimming overhead are often so dense that they block the sunlight from filtering down.
Bajo del Diablo (Devil’s Rock) – one of the best dive sites in the bay – is an astonishing formation of submerged mountains that attracts an incredible variety of fish species, including jacks, snappers, barracudas, puffers, parrotfish, moray eels and sharks.
A two-tank dive runs from US$110 to US$150 depending on the site. Several upscale lodges have on-site dive centers, and there are more dive centers in Agujitas.
Operators include the following.
Osa Divers (%8994-9309; www.osadivers.com) Competitively priced, recommended diving outfit whisking divers (and snorkelers) off for underwater adventures around Isla del Caño. Snorkeling tours cost US$80; two-/three-tank dives are US$120/160. Equipment could be newer, though, and the dive masters don’t have too much patience with novices.
Drake Divers (%2775-1818; www.drakediverscr.com; h7am-7pm) This outfit specializes in diving at Isla del Caño, charging US$135/185 for two-/three-tank dives. Snorkelers are welcome to come along (US$80). The equipment is not the newest and the boat is not a purpose-built diving boat, but the divemasters are experienced.
1Sights
Playa CocalitoBeach
Just west of Punta Agujitas, a short detour off the main trail leads to the picturesque Playa Cocalito, a secluded cove perfect for sunning, swimming and body surfing.
Playa CaletasBeach
A recommended spot for snorkeling, situated in front of Las Caletas Lodge.
Playa San JosecitoBeach
South of Río Claro, Playa San Josecito is the longest stretch of white-sand beach on this side of the Península de Osa. It is popular with swimmers, snorkelers and sunbathers, though you’ll only find it crowded at lunchtime since it’s the favorite post-snorkeling picnic spot for tour companies coming back from Isla del Caño. Watch out for capuchin monkeys!
2Activities
Agujitas–Corcovado TrailHiking
This 17km public trail follows the coastline from Agujitas to the San Pedrillo Ranger Station for the entire spectacular stretch, and it’s excellent for wildlife-spotting (particularly early in the morning), beach-hopping and canoe tours with Río Claro Tours. Tour operators can drop you off by boat at a point of your choosing and you can walk back to Agujitas.
Río AgujitasKayaking
The idyllic Río Agujitas attracts a huge variety of birdlife and lots of reptiles. The river conveniently empties out into the bay, which is surrounded by hidden coves and sandy beaches ideal for exploring in a sea kayak, best done at high tide. Some accommodations have kayaks and canoes for rent; kayaks can also be rented along Agujitas beach (around US$15 per hour).
Chocolate Farm
About 8km south of La Palma, Finca Köbö (%8398-7604; www.fincakobo.com; 2hr tour US$32; p) 
S is a chocolate-lover’s dream come true (in fact köbö means ‘dream’ in Ngöbere). The 20-hectare finca (farm) is dedicated to the organic cultivation of fruits and vegetables and – the product of choice – cacao. Tours in English give a comprehensive overview of the life cycle of cacao plants and the production of chocolate (with degustation!). More than half of the territory is dedicated to protecting and reforesting natural ecosystems.
To really experience the beauty and vision of this finca, you can stay in simple, comfortable teak cabins and bungalows (US$95 to US$155, including breakfast; dinner costs US$8 to US$15), with lovely open-air bathrooms and quality linens. Those who stay longer can hike the surrounding forest trails and speak with local farmers. The on-site gift store sells toasted cocoa nibs – great for energy! – and locally produced organic jam.
TTours
Pacheco ToursWildlife
(%8906-2002; www.pachecotours.com)
Very competent all-rounder organizing snorkeling tours to Isla del Caño, day trips to Corcovado, day-long tours combining jungle trekking with waterfall swimming (US$65), and whale-watching excursions.
Tracie the Bug LadyWildlife
(%8701-7462, 8701-7356; www.thenighttour.com; tours per person US$40; h7:30-10:15pm)
Tracie the ‘Bug Lady’ has created quite a name for herself with this fascinating nighttime walk in the jungle that takes in bugs, reptiles and birds. Tracie is a walking encyclopedia on bug facts – one of her fields of research is the military use of insects! Her naturalist-photographer husband Gian also leads the night tours; reserve in advance.
Río Claro ToursCanoeing
(%8931-1345; 1/2/3hr tour per person US$20/30/40)
A 20-minute hike toward Agujitas from Playa San Josecito, a hermit called Ricardo (‘Clavito’) lives by the Río Claro and runs hugely entertaining canoeing tours. They start with a rope-swing plunge and continue to some waterfalls with refreshing plunge pools. Various tour operators can drop you off by boat, leaving you to walk back to Agujitas afterward.
Original Canopy TourTours
(%8371-1598, 2291-4465; www.jinetesdeosa.com/canopy_tour.htm; US$35; h8am-4pm)
At Hotel Jinetes de Osa, the Original Canopy Tour has nine platforms, six cables and one 20m observation deck from where you can get a new perspective on the rainforest. Tours take two to three hours.
5Eating
There are several local restaurants in the heart of Agujitas, as well as two supermarkets, while some accommodations, particularly the more remote ones, offer full board. Important: do not leave this place without ordering a milkshake at Heladería Popis (h1-9pm).
Drake’s KitchenCosta Rican$
(Casa el Tortugo; %6161-3193, 2775-1405; mains from US$7; hnoon-9pm; p)
Excellent, small local restaurant along the main dirt road from Agujitas to the airstrip. The casados, such as catch-of-the-day with fried plantains and avocado, are clearly prepared by a capable and passionate chef, the fresh juices are stellar and the ambience mellow.
Soda Mar y BosqueCosta Rican$
(%6015-4981, 5002-7554; mains US$5-16; h5:30am-9pm; W)
Gringo Curt’sInternational$$
(%7156-2597; www.gringocurt.com; mains US$10; hnoon-9pm)
Gringo Curt offers just three things: a fish salad wrap, noodles tossed with vegetables (and sometimes garnished with catch-of-the-day) and super-fresh fish steamed in a banana leaf (serves two). This one-man operation is popular with visitors, and the portions are generous. Curt’s a great source of local info, too, and runs nature tours.
Marisquería Roberto’sSeafood$$
(%6201-2536; mains US$7-12; hnoon-9pm)
Right near the beach, this open-air restaurant serves up mostly fishy delights, from garlic shrimp spaghetti and ceviche to generous helpings of freshly grilled fish, fish tacos and arroz con mariscos (seafood fried rice).
Los CoquitosSeafood
(%2775-9049; mains US$$; h10am-9pm)
Just off the beach on a covered terrace, this delicious restaurant serves up the freshest fish around. The red snapper and marlin get high marks from travelers, as do the the typical Costa Rican casado plates, which come with a meat (beef, chicken or fish), beans, rice and a surprisingly tasty salad. Friendly service, too.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Departing from San José, NatureAir and Sansa have daily flights to the Drake airstrip, which is 2km north of Agujitas. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay around US$80 to US$120 one way.
Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (%8632-8150; www.alfaromeoair.com) offers charter flights connecting Drake to Puerto Jiménez (US$430), Carate (US$450) and Sirena (US$420). Flights are best booked at the airport in person; if there are several of you, one-way fares can be less than US$100.
Most lodges provide transportation to/from the airport or Sierpe, which involves a jeep or a boat or both, but advance reservation is necessary.
BOAT
An exhilarating boat ride from Sierpe is one of the true thrills of visiting the area. Boats travel along the river through the rainforest and the mangrove estuary. Captains then pilot boats through tidal currents and surf the river mouth into the ocean. All of the hotels offer boat transfers between Sierpe and Bahía Drake with prior arrangements. Most hotels in Drake have beach landings, so wear appropriate footwear.
If you have not made advance arrangements with your lodge for a pick-up, two colectivo boats depart daily from Sierpe at 11:30am and 4:30pm, and from Bahía Drake back to Sierpe at 7:15am (US$15) and 2:30pm (US$20).
8GETTING AROUND
Once you reach Bahía Drake, the only way to get around is on foot or by boat.
Sierpe
This sleepy village on the Río Sierpe is the gateway to Bahía Drake, and if you’ve made a reservation with any of the jungle lodges further down the coast, you will be picked up here by boat. Beyond its function as a transit point, there is little reason to spend any more time here than necessary, though it’s well worth taking a peek at one of the celebrated pre-Columbian stone spheres in the main square. If you’re visiting the excellent Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6 near Sierpe, you can stop here for lunch. Mangrove cruises can also be arranged in town.
1Sights
Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6Archaeological Site
(%2100-6000; finca6@museocostarica.go.cr; 4km north of Sierpe; US$6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
This site offers the best opportunity to view the mysterious pre-Columbian spheres created by the Diquís civilization between 300 BC and 1500 AD. This is their original locale, near culturally significant mounds 30m in diameter. Walking around you can really appreciate their size and perfect sphericity.
8INFORMATION
La Perla del Sur (%2788-1082; info@perladelsur.net; h6am-10pm; W) is an info center and open-air restaurant located next to the boat dock (the hub of Sierpe). Arrange your long-term parking (US$6 per night), book a tour and take advantage of the free wi-fi before catching your boat to Drake. The food is hit and miss, though.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
Scheduled flights and charters fly into Palmar Sur, 14km north of Sierpe. If you are heading to Bahía Drake, most upmarket lodges will arrange the boat transfer. Should things go awry or if you’re traveling independently, there’s no shortage of water taxis milling about – be prepared to negotiate a fair price. Regularly scheduled colectivo boats depart Sierpe for Drake at 11:30am (US$15) and 4:30pm (US$20).
Buses to Palmar Norte (US$0.70, 40 minutes) depart from in front of Pulpería Fenix at 5:30am, 8:30am, 10:30am, 12:30pm, 3:30pm and 6pm. A shared taxi to Palmar costs about US$10 per person.
Carate
If you make it all the way here, congratulations. A bone-rattling 45km south of Puerto Jiménez, this is where the dirt road rounds the peninsula and comes to an abrupt dead end. There’s literally nothing more than an airstrip, a long strip of wild beach and a pulpería. Carate is not a destination in itself, but it is the southwestern gateway for anyone hiking into Sirena ranger station in Parque Nacional Corcovado.
A handful of well-designed wilderness lodges in the area make a good night’s rest for travelers heading to/from Corcovado or those in search of a quiet retreat surrounded by jungle.
Luna Lodge (%2206-5859, 888-760-0760 in the USA & Canada; www.lunalodge.com; tent/r/bungalow per person incl all meals US$248/345/433; p W 
s
c) S A steep road crisscrosses the Río Carate and up the valley to this enchanting mountain retreat on the border of Parque Nacional Corcovado. Accommodations range from tent cabins to thatched bungalows with open-air garden showers and private terraces, all with stunning views of the pristine jungle rolling down to the ocean. This is the farthest-flung of Carate’s accommodations.
La Leona Eco-Lodge (%2735-5704; www.laleonaecolodge.com: per person tent half-/full board from US$89/99; s) S On the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado, this friendly lodge offers all the thrills of camping, without the hassles. The 16 fully screened forest-green tents with beds are nestled between palm trees, with decks facing the beach and allowing frequent wildlife sightings. Solar power provides electricity in the restaurant.
The ride from Puerto Jiménez to Carate is also its own adventure as the narrow, bumpy dirt road winds its way around dense rainforest, through gushing rivers and across windswept beaches. Birds and other wildlife are prolific along this stretch: keep your eyes peeled and hang on tight.
Some places in Carate don’t have 24-hour electricity or hot water. Reservations are recommended in the dry season – communication is often through Puerto Jiménez, so messages may not be retrieved every day. For shoestringers, the best option is to camp in the yard in front of the pulpería; the expat owner charges US$5 a day to camp in his yard.
Caminos de Osa
Developed in response to the overcrowding of Parque Nacional Corcovado by a cooperation of private, public, academic and nonprofit sectors, the Caminos de Osa (Osa Trails; www.caminosdeosa.com) take visitors along three different routes bisecting the Osa Peninsula. Passing close to the park, they allow visitors to commune with wildlife, while also introducing them to the rural communities that call Osa home.
The Oro trail skirts Corcovado and passes through the former gold-mining villages of Rancho Quemado and Dos Brazos, where visitors participate in a host of rural activities, from gold-panning to horseback riding, before finishing in Carate.
Passing through the Sierpe mangroves by boat, the Agua trail deposits visitors at San Pedrillo ranger station, also bordering Corcovado, from where they hike into Bahía Drake and cruise out to Caño Island for some underwater exploration.
Finally, the Selva trail explores the southeastern part of the peninsula, connecting Dos Brazos to Puerto Jiménez and La Tarde.
Caminos de Osa is actively working together with the communities of Dos Brazos, Rancho Quemado and La Palma, which visitors can easily visit, and their rural tourism infrastructure is developed. The communities are eager to share their way of life with visitors.
Cabo Matapalo
If you didn’t know that it was here, you would hardly suspect that the jungle-obscured community of Matapalo existed. There isn’t much to the southern tip of the Osa Península save some surfing digs and homes at the entrance to the Golfo Dulce. Matapalo lies just 17km south of Puerto Jiménez, but this heavily forested and beach-fringed cape is a vastly different world. A network of trails traverses the foothills, uninhabited except for migrating wildlife from the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce. Along the coastline, miles of beaches are virtually empty, except for a few surfers in the know.
Cabo Matapalo is home to wilderness lodges that cater to travelers searching for seclusion and wildlife. Scarlet macaws, pelicans and herons are frequently sighted on the beaches, while all four species of Costa Rican monkeys, several wildcat species, plus sloths, coatis, agoutis and anteaters roam the woods.
Surfers often head to Cabo Matapalo for its righteous breaks at the following beaches.
Playa Matapalo There are three excellent right point breaks off this beach, not far from Encanta La Vida. If there’s a south or west swell this is the best time to hit the waves.
Playa Pan Dulce Good for beginners and intermediate surfers, Pan Dulce gets some nice longboard waves most days. You can also go swimming here, but be careful of rip tides.
