Southern Nicoya
Southern Nicoya at a Glance…
Word has spread about the hippie-chic outposts of Montezuma and dusty yet developing Santa Teresa. During the dry season, packs of international surfers and wanderers arrive, hungry for the wild beauty and soul-stirring waters on either side of the peninsula. It used to require hours of sweaty bus rides and sluggish ferries from the mainland to access this tropical land’s end, but these days there are more roads and regular boat shuttles, making the southern peninsula altogether more accessible.
Two Days in Southern Nicoya
On your first day, relax into your vacay at Playa Santa Teresa, one of Costa Rica’s most stunning beaches, and throw in a surf or a yoga session if you’re keen. Do lunch at Zwart Cafe and a sushi dinner Koji’s. Spend day two chillin’ by the tide pools at Playa Hermosa or exploring the trails at Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco and its gorgeous wilderness beach.
Four Days in Southern Nicoya
Base yourself for the next two days in Montezuma, and prioritize the trek to Montezuma Waterfalls map for thrilling jumps and cooling dips. Have lunch at Clandestina, then head to Playa Montezuma for an afternoon of swimming and sunbathing. Treat yourself to a delectable beachside dinner at Playa de los Artistas. On your last day, get an early start on the beach hike to Playa Cocolito, where you can luxuriate in some of the most magnificent scenery around.
Arriving in Southern Nicoya
The road from Paquera to Cóbano is paved, but much of the southern peninsula is not, and it’s quite a bumpy ride. Ferries carry cars and passengers across the Golfo de Nicoya (from Puntarenas to Paquera), while boats bring passengers from Jacó to Montezuma. A quick flight from San José will deliver you to Tambor.
Sleeping
Montezuma and Santa Teresa are the hubs of the southern peninsula, both with a great range of accommodation options catering to all budgets. But there are cabinas and other more interesting accommodations sprinkled all over this region. So if you prefer to nest in a quieter corner of the peninsula, you will surely find somewhere suitable to lay your head.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco
At the tip of the Península de Nicoya, this unique park is covered by evergreen forests, bisected by a hiking trail and flanked by empty white-sand beaches and offshore islands.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Picnicking and swimming at a deserted beach at the tip of the peninsula.
8Need to Know
%2642-0093; adult/child US$12/2; 
h8am-4pm Wed-Sun
5Take a Break
Pack a picnic with burritos from Zwart Cafe.
oTop Tip
Cabo Blanco is called an ‘absolute’ nature reserve because visitors were originally not permitted (prior to the late 1980s).
Just 11km south of Montezuma is Costa Rica’s oldest protected wilderness area. Cabo Blanco comprises 12 sq km of land and 17 sq km of surrounding ocean, and includes the entire southern tip of the Península de Nicoya. The moist micro-climate on the tip of the peninsula fosters the growth of evergreen forests, which are unique when compared with the dry tropical forests typical of Nicoya. The park also encompasses a number of pristine white-sand beaches and offshore islands that are favored nesting areas for various bird species.
Hiking
From the ranger station, the Sendero Sueco (Swedish Trail) leads 4.5km down to a wilderness beach at the tip of the peninsula, while the Sendero Danes (Danish Trail) is a spur that branches from Sendero Sueco and reconnects 1km later. So, you can make this small 2km loop and stay in the woods, or take on the considerably more difficult but much more rewarding hike to the cape, heading down one way and taking the other path back up. Be advised that the trails can get very muddy (especially in the rainy season) and are fairly steep in certain parts – plan for about two hours in each direction.
Monkeys, squirrels, sloths, deer, agoutis and raccoons abound at Cabo Blanco. Armadillos, pizotes (coatis), peccaries and anteaters are also occasionally sighted.
Brown Boobies on the Cabo Blanco
The coastal area is known as an important nesting site for the brown booby, mostly found 1.6km south of the mainland on Isla Cabo Blanco (White Cape Island). In fact, the name ‘Cabo Blanco’ was coined by Spanish conquistadors when they noticed that the entire island consisted of guano-encrusted rocks.
Beaches
The wide, sandy pebble beach at the end of the trail is magnificent. It’s backed by jungle, sheltered by two rugged headlands including one that stretches out into a rock reef with island views just offshore. The water is striped turquoise at low tide, but the cool currents still make for a refreshing dip. Visibility isn’t always great for snorkeling but you may want to bring a mask anyway. Driftwood is smooth, weathered and piled haphazardly here and there. There are even picnic tables and a grill, if you care to get ambitious. Simply put, it is a postcard, and should be required for visitors to the southern peninsula. Leave the beach by 2pm to get out before the park closes.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Montezuma Waterfalls
A river hike leads to a waterfall with a delicious swimming hole. Further along the trail, a second set of falls offers a good clean 10m leap into deep water.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
That agonizing, heart-thumping moment when you have to let go of the rope.
8Need to Know
parking US$2
5Take a Break
Recover from your adventure with gourmet tacos and craft beer at Clandestina.
oTop Tip
Hit the trail early and you may have the falls to yourself.
Head south past Hotel La Cascada (located at the mouth of the river), where you’ll find a parking area. Then take the trail to the right just after the bridge. You’ll want proper hiking footwear.
Waterfall Trail
The first waterfall has a lusciously inviting swimming hole, where you’ll want to cool off from the hike. Remember that it’s shallow and rocky and not suitable for diving.
From here, if you continue on the well-marked trail that leads around and up, you will come to a second set of falls. This is where you’ll find a good clean leap into the deep water below. At 10m high, they are also the tallest of the three falls. To reach the jumping point, continue on the trail up the side of the hill until you reach the diving area. Do not attempt to scale the falls. The rocks are slippery and several travelers have met their death in this way.
From this point, the trail continues up the hill to the third and last set of falls. These are not suitable for jumping, but daring souls can swing out on the rope and drop right into the deeper part of the swimming hole.
Playing It Safe
oDon’t attempt to jump into the lower pool, which is rocky and shallow.
oDon’t attempt to scale the waterfall.
oDon’t jump into the third upper pool without the aid of the swing.
Canopy Tour
Tour company Sun Trails map (Montezuma Waterfall Canopy Tour; %2642-0808; www.montezumatraveladventures.com; tours US$45; h9am, 1pm & 3pm) operates a 1½-hour canopy tour. After you’ve flown down eight ziplines, you’ll hike down – rather than up – to the waterfalls. Bring your swimsuit, so you can jump off the rocks and cool off. Park at the canopy entrance (US$4) for quick access to the falls via a suspension bridge. This company has also opened a spotless new lodge, Sun Trails Hotel, on the other side of the swinging bridge, with the latest amenities.
Butterfly Garden
About 1.5km south of town, alongside the waterfall trail, you can tour this lush mariposario (butterfly garden) at Montezuma Gardens map (Mariposario; %2642-1317; www.montezumagardens.com; US$6; h8am-4pm), where the mysterious metamorphoses occur. You’ll learn about the life cycles and benefits of a dozen local species, of which you’ll see many colorful varieties. Note that it is a long and steep trek from town so you may want to consider a taxi. There’s also a modern four-room B&B here that brews its own beer.
Santa Teresa & Mal País
Santa Teresa didn’t even have electricity until the mid-1990s. Then one major landowner died and his property was subdivided, and the landscape north of the Playa El Carmen intersection changed forever. These days, ATVs are omnipresent, along with gob-smackingly delicious restaurants and transformational ocean-view yoga dens. It’s still a wonderful surfing town, though no longer a secret one, and there’s a modicum of nightlife. The entire area unfurls along one bumpy coastal road that rambles south from Santa Teresa through Playa El Carmen and terminates in the relaxed, sleepy fishing hamlet of Mal País.
1Sights
Playa Santa TeresaBeach
Playa Santa Teresa is a long, stunning beach that’s famous for its fast and powerful beach break. The surf is pretty consistent and can be surfed at virtually any time of day. At the north end of the beach, Roca Mar – aka Suck Rock – is an awesome point break and a local favorite. The break La Lora is named for the nightclub that marks the turnoff from the main road, which is how you find it.
Playa HermosaBeach
Somewhere north of town, Playa Santa Teresa ends and Playa Hermosa starts. This gorgeous beach deserves its hermosa (beautiful) moniker and then some. It’s wide and flat and spectacular at low tide. The beach nearly disappears at high tide. Somewhere between low and high is surf tide, when you can ride the wide beach break left or right from center. You can surf the point break (at the north end of the beach) at any time.
Playa El CarmenBeach
Playa El Carmen, downhill from the main T intersection coming into town, is a good beach break that can be surfed anytime. The beach is wide and sandy and curls into successive coves, so it makes good beachcombing and swimming terrain too.
Playa ManzanilloBeach
About 8km north of the Playa El Carmen intersection, past Playa Hermosa, Playa Manzanillo is a combination of sand and rock that’s best surfed when the tide is rising and there’s an offshore wind.
2Activities
Freedom Ride SUPWater Sports
(%2640-0939, 8737-8781; www.sup-costarica.com; Mal País; rental half-/full day US$25/40, lessons per person US$50; h9am-6pm)
A stand-up paddle place with sharp management and excellent safety and instruction techniques. Andy offers lessons for first-timers and rentals for old-timers, as well as tours that are entertaining for anyone. Located near the fishing pier in Mal País.
Canopy Mal PaísAdventure Sports
(%2640-0360; www.canopymalpais.com; US$50; h9am-3pm)
You don’t think of ziplining when you come to a surf town? You should. Just south of Mal País, Carlos and crew provide one of the most entertaining experiences around, joking so much you’ll forget your fear of heights on the 11 cables, including one that stretches 500m across the jungle below. And the last cable is a surfboard ride!
Surfing Southern Nicoya
The long, flat beach stretches for many kilometers along this southwestern coast of the peninsula. The entire area is saturated with surf shops. This is a good place to pick up an inexpensive board, which you can probably sell later. Most of the local shops also do rentals and repairs.
Kina Surf Shop (%2640-0627; www.kinasurfcr.com; Santa Teresa; lessons per person US$60, board rentals per day US$12-20; h9am-5pm) A terrific, efficient surf shop near the break in Santa Teresa. Kina claims to have the best selection of rental boards in the area, with 60-something quality boards available. The 90-minute lessons for beginner, intermediate and advanced surfers also come highly recommended.
Nalu Surf School (%2649-0391, 8358-4436; www.nalusurfschool.com; Santa Teresa; board rental per day US$10-20, group/private lessons US$50/65) Located 300m north of the Playa El Carmen intersection (next to Ronny’s Supermarket), this surf school is recommended for its fun and professional approach to instruction. Lessons usually take place at Playa El Carmen.
Pura Vida Adventures (%in USA 1-415-465-2162; www.puravidaadventures.com; Playa El Carmen; weekly rates from US$2795) An excellent women-only retreat in Playa El Carmen that combines surfing and yoga in weeklong experiences that also include all meals. It’s on the beach side of the main north–south road, just north of Calle Buenos Aires.
5Eating
If surfing and yoga are the top two activities in Santa Teresa and Mal País, then number three is surely eating. The dining is surprisingly sophisticated for a dusty little surf town. Indulge in gourmet burgers, sublime sushi, multicultural tapas or farm-to-table fusion goodness. Or, keep it real with a casado (set meal) from the local soda. It’s all good.
Zwart CafeCafe$
(%2640-0011; Santa Teresa; mains US$4-8; h7am-5pm; 
W)
Zwart means ‘black’ in Dutch, but this shabby-chic, artist-owned gallery and cafe is all white (or mostly, damn dust!). You’ll love the surf-inspired Technicolor canvases, the lively outdoor patio and the breakfasts, including chocolate chip pancakes. At lunch it’s all about the burritos. About 2km north of the T intersection, on the right if you’re heading north. There’s a dynamite used bookstore here too.
Mafra’s BakeryBakery$
(mall at entrance to Playa El Carmen; pastries & bread US$2-4; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Not the biggest bakery in Playa El Carmen, but longtime residents swear by this Italian panaderia in the first mall you see as you come into town. Francheska and company whip up a mean bombolini, so scrumptious you’ll be licking the cream off your fingers afterward. And, a bunch of good focaccia and pizza-like items too. Buono apettito!
Burger RanchoBurgers$$
(%2640-0583; www.facebook.com/BurgerRancho; Santa Teresa; mains US$10-12; h11am-10pm; 
v)
Get your burger on at this open-air rancho across from the soccer field. Check the blackboard for daily changing specials, including veggie choices like a portobello mushroom burger, fish options like a Hawaiian tuna burger, and others such as the interesting chorizo burger. There’s other food too, but why would you want to do that? Cash only.
Umi SushiSushi$$
(%2640-0968; Santa Teresa; rolls US$6-14; h11:30am-10pm)
This new addition to the Santa Teresa smorgasbord serves up the usual sushi roll suspects – California, spicy tuna, and Philadelphia – along with local winners like the mouth-watering Mal País roll (salmon, tuna and avocado). Good food and impeccable presentation make for a win-win. On the main road, about 0.5km north of the T intersection, just before Calle Buenos Aires.
CaracolasSoda$$
(%2640-0525; Mal País; mains US$10-16; h11:30am-8:30pm; 
pW
c)
The lone soda on this end of the coast. It serves típica on timber tables in a garden that rolls on to the rocky beach. The place does all the usual chicken, beef and seafood dishes, as well as sandwiches and salads. But the reason to come here is to feel the ocean breeze and stare at the setting sun.
Restaurante & Pizzeria Playa CarmenPizza$$
(%2640-0110; www.restaurantepizzeriaplayacarmen.com; Playa El Carmen; mains US$10-23; h9am-10pm)
The location right on the playa is hard to beat, and the list of ceviche and cooked fish shows it’s more than just a pizzeria. It’s a popular spot for sundowners, thanks to the happy-hour specials (two-for-one drinks) and the amazing show that takes place in the sky. Come hobnob with the locals and enjoy.
Bajo El ArbolTapas$$$
(Playa El Carmen; mains US$15-18; h6-10pm)
If you can’t afford a flight to Spain, just sit down ‘Beneath the Tree.’ Basque chef Julio whips up extraordinary escalivada (an eggplant and pepper dish), and the pulpo a la gallega (octopus), topped with crunchy sea salt: so damned good it ought to be illegal. Add a half bottle of Spanish wine, and you’ll be smiling till the next morning.
Koji’sJapanese$$$
(%2640-0815; www.santa-teresa.com/kojis; Playa Hermosa; sushi US$5-10; h5:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat)
Koji Hyodo’s sushi shack is a twinkling beacon of fresh, raw excellence. The atmosphere and service are superior, of course, but his food is a higher truth. The grilled octopus is barely fried and sprinkled with sea salt, and there’s a sweet crunch to his lobster sashimi, sliced tracing-paper thin and sprinkled with fresh ginger. Uphill from the main road.
Mary’s RestaurantFusion$$$
(%2640-0153; www.maryscostarica.com; Mal País; mains US$10-22; h5:30-10pm Thu-Tue)
At the far end of Mal País village, this unassuming, open-air restaurant has a polished concrete floor, wood oven, pool table and blackboard menu. It offers delicious wood-fired pizzas, homemade bacon and sausages, grilled seafood and fresh produce straight from the farm. It’s all fabulous. Its secret? Using only fresh, organic ingredients from local farms and fishers.
Papaya LoungeInternational$$$
(%2640-0230; www.moanacostarica.com; Hotel Moana, Mal País; tapas US$6-15; h7:30-10am Tue, 7:30-10am & 5-9pm Wed-Mon)
The top-shelf restaurant at the Hotel Moana (%2640-0230, toll-free in USA 888-865-8032; r standard/deluxe US$110/145, ste US$245-275, all incl breakfast; p
aW
s) is on a stunning perch and has jaw-dropping views and Latin-inspired tapas. The emphasis on local ingredients results in delights such as beef braised in chili and coffee, and seafood skewers in habanero-and-passion-fruit glaze. If you’re wondering how much to order, two tapas per person should do the trick.
Brisas Del MarSeafood$$$
(%2640-0941; Playa El Carmen; mains US$15-22; h8-10pm Mon-Sat; p)
It’s worth the steep climb for sensational views and fancy-looking seafood at the poolside patio restaurant at the Hotel Buenos Aires. Begin with a specialty cocktail as you peruse the day’s menu written on the blackboard. Look for fresh fruits de mer prepared with international influences; it’s almost always fantastic. Cash only.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Roca MarBar
(%2640-0250; Santa Teresa; hnoon-9pm; W)
Tucked away at the Blue Surf Sanctuary hotel at the northern end of town, this pretty perfect beach lounge attracts a local expat crowd. Beanbags are stuck in the sand, and hammocks are slung in the trees – all perfectly positioned for sunset. There’s an official Sunset Party on Sunday evening – a family-friendly event with live music and fire dancers.
Nativo Sports BarSports Bar
(%2640-0356; www.facebook.com/NativoSportsBar; Playa El Carmen; h11:30am-11pm)
Fans above (to cool the place), fanaticos below, watching every manner of sport on the four big screens. Baseball, hockey, and of course fútbol are all on the offing. For a sports bar, though, there are a variety of food options besides the burger/nacho path: smoothies packed with fruits and vegetables, as well as hummus and salads.
La Lora AmarillaClub
(%2640-0132; Santa Teresa; hnoon-2am)
There are only four words you need to know: Thursday night reggae party. Come to this enormous concrete hangar – dive bar and dance club in one – to party like you’re in the tropics. Santa Teresa’s main surf break is named after this bar, as it’s just down the dirt road from here.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
The southern Península de Nicoya roads leading to Santa Teresa and Mal País are improving. Nonetheless, whether you catch the bus/ferry, get a lift from a private shuttle or opt to drive yourself, be prepared for a bumpy ride for the last few miles.
8GETTING AROUND
Santa Teresa and Mal País are dirt-road types of towns: during the dry season, life gets extremely dusty. The preponderance of ATVs stirs up more grit (and the ire of locals) so consider using a bicycle to get around town, to avoid contributing to the problem. If you must drive, please go slowly. Taxis between Mal País, Playa El Carmen and Santa Teresa range from US$4 to US$8.
Montezuma
1Sights
Playa MontezumaBeach
(map)
The best beach close to town is just to the north, where the sand is powdery and sheltered from big swells. This is your glorious sun-soaked crash pad. The water’s shade of teal is immediately nourishing, the temperature is perfect and fish are abundant. At the north end of the beach, look for the trail that leads to a cove known as Piedra Colorada. A small waterfall forms a freshwater pool, which is a perfect swimming spot.
Playa GrandeBeach
About 7km north of town, Playa Grande is the best surf beach in the area. It’s a 3km-plus stretch of waves and sand, which never gets too crowded as it requires a 30-minute hike to get here. But what a hike it is, wandering along between the turquoise waters of the Pacific and the lush greenery of the Montezuma Biological Reserve.
Playa CocolitoBeach
Here’s your chance to see a waterfall crashing down a cliff, straight onto the rocks and into the ocean. El Chorro Waterfall is the pièce de résistance of Playa Cocolito, which is itself pretty irresistible.
It’s a hot, two-hour, 12km hike from Montezuma: leave at sun rise to spot plenty of wildlife along the way. Alternatively, this is a popular destination for horseback riding. In any case, be sure to bring water and snacks as there are no facilities here.
Yoga
Many surfers know that yoga is the perfect antidote to their sore flippers. Several studios in the area offer drop-in classes.
Casa Zen (%2640-0523; www.zencostarica.com; Santa Teresa; classes per person US$9) Three daily classes take place in a lovely second-story, open-air studio, surrounded by trees. Most of the classes are a hatha-inspired Vinyasa flow, but there’s also cardio fit and other styles. Yoga by candlelight is a sublime way to transition from day to night. Multi-class packages are available. Located behind the Plaza Royal.
Yoga Studio at Nautilus (%2640-0991; www.hotelnautiluscostarica.com; Santa Teresa; group/private classes US$14/60; h9am & 6pm) What’s not to love about rooftop yoga? Twice-daily classes are held on the deck at the Nautilus Boutique Hotel (%2640-0991; www.hotelnautiluscostarica.com; Santa Teresa; villa d/q US$165/270; paWs), offering lovely views over the village. It offers Vinyasa flow and kundalini, power and restorative yoga. Look for the Nautilus or Canaima Chill House signs.
Horizon Yoga Hotel (%2640-0524; www.horizon-yogahotel.com; Calle Buenos Aires, Santa Teresa; classes per person US$15) Offers two classes daily, in a serene environment overlooking the ocean. As with other schools, weekly and other passes are available.
2Activities
Montezuma YogaYoga
(map; %8704-1632, 2642-1311; www.montezumayoga.com; per person US$14; h8:30am Mon-Fri, 6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun)
Anusara-inspired instruction, which pairs Iyengar alignment principles with a Vinyasa flow, is available in a gorgeous studio kissed by ocean breezes, sheltered by a peaked tin roof and serenaded by the sounds of nature. The Sunday-night candlelight class is a close-to-heaven experience. On the grounds of Hotel Los Mangos (%2642-0076; www.hotellosmangos.com; r with/without bathroom US$75/35, bungalows US$90; paWs).
Devaya YogaYoga
(map; %8833-5086; www.devayayoga.com; classes US$12; hclasses 8:30am & 4pm Mon-Sat)
A studio smack in the middle of town, upstairs from Pizzeria L’Angolo Allegro. Offers morning and afternoon classes, as well as massage therapy and astrology readings.
Young Vision Surf SchoolSurfing
(map; %8669-6835; www.youngvisionsurf.com; 2hr lessons US$45)
Manny and Alvaro get rave reviews for their knowledge, enthusiasm and patience with new surfers of all ages. Daily lessons take place on Playa Grande, with no more than three people in the class. Surfboard, rash guard and fresh fruit are included. They also offer weeklong camps specifically for families, surfer chicks and yogis. Inquire at Sano Banano (%2642-0523; www.elsanobanano.com; s/d/tr/q US$80/86/108/130; paW) for details.
Peaks & Swells Surf CampSurfing
( map; %2642-0067; www.surfcamppeaksnswells.com; 7-day camp per person US$2950; c)
Weeklong camps that are geared to women, families and mountain bikers. If one of these is you, here’s a chance to learn how to surf, following systematic methods of instruction. Located on the beach, just north of ‘downtown’ Montezuma.
5Eating
Montezuma is experiencing the same food revolution that is taking place on other parts of the peninsula. Local ingredients are meeting international chefs, with magnificent results. Montezuma is also good for traditional Tico fare, often with ocean-side service.
The BakeryCosta Rican$
(map; Restaurante y Panadería; h6am-10pm)
A gentle feeling permeates this no-frills Tico family operation on the beach road, adorned with Hindu tapestries and a mural of the nearby beach. It’s cheap, too, and you’ll love the refreshing batidos (fruit shakes), as well as the filling casados and arrozes (rice dishes). Early risers go for the homemade pancakes or French toast.
Soda El Balcón del MarSeafood$
(map; www.facebook.com/sodaelbalcondelmar; mains US$8-12; h7am-midnight)
Hang out below the Tico-themed red-white-and-blue Chinese lanterns on the balcony overlooking the beach, watch flocks of pelicans drift by and kiss the afternoon goodbye. Llip-smacking appetizers include mussels and clams, and you can get a whole-fish catch of the day if that’s your thing. Located across from the taxi stand.
CocoloresInternational$$
(map; %2642-0348; mains US$9-22; h5-10pm Tue-Sun)
Set on a beachside terrace lit with lanterns, Cocolores is one of Montezuma’s top spots for an upscale dinner. The wide-ranging menu includes curries, pasta, fajitas and steaks, all prepared and served with careful attention to delicious details. Prices aren’t cheap but it’s worth it.
Tierra y FuegoItalian$$
(%2642-1593; mains US$8-15; h5-10pm; pvc)
Take a taxi up to this gem in the hills above Montezuma – fittingly in the Delicias neighborhood. This Italian outpost seems straight out of the Tuscan countryside, with brick ovens, and chickens roasting over the fire. The menu is mostly pizza and pasta, but the flavors are divine – not surprising given the ingredients are all imported or grown onsite.
Puggo’sMiddle Eastern$$
(map; %8705-1077, 2642-0325; Ruta 624; mains US$10-20; h5-11pm)
A locally beloved restaurant decorated like a bedouin tent, Puggo’s specializes in Middle Eastern cuisine, including falafel, hummus, kebabs and aromatic fish, which are dressed in imported spices and herbs and roasted whole. Cap it off with a strong cup of Turkish coffee.
Puggo’s is located just before the soccer field, heading south of town.
OrgánicoVegetarian$$
(map; %2642-1322; www.organicocostarica.com; mains US$8-12; h8am-10pm; v)
When they say ‘pure food made with love,’ they mean it – this healthy cafe turns out vegetarian and vegan dishes such as spicy Thai burgers, smoothies named for icons like Marley and Hendrix (try the Purple Haze) and more (as well as meaty options, too). Opposite the church square, on the road leading north to the beach.
The avocado ice cream is something everyone should try. There’s live music almost nightly, including a wildly popular open mic on Monday nights.
ClandestinaLatin American$$
(map; Cocina Hispanoamericana; %8315-8003; www.facebook.com/clandestinamontezuma; mains US$8-12; hnoon-9pm Tue-Sat; Wv)
The secret is out. The hottest restaurant in Montezuma is this awesome, artistic place in the trees at the butterfly gardens. Look for innovative takes on Central American standards, such as daily changing taco specials and delectable chicken mole enchiladas. Vegetarians are joyfully accommodated with yam and lentil cakes or chilles rellenos (stuffed peppers). Try the Butterfly Beer, brewed onsite.
Playa de los ArtistasInternational$$$
(map; %2642-0920; www.montezumabeach.com/playa-de-los-artistas; mains US$9-18; h4:30-8:30pm Tue-Fri, from noon Sat)
Most romantic dinner ever. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag one of the tree-trunk tables under the palms. The international menu with Mediterranean influences changes daily, though you can always count on fresh seafood roasted in the wood oven. The service is flawless, the cooking is innovative and the setting is downright dreamy. Cash only (back to reality), so bring lots.
Puntarenas-Paquera Ferry
Car and passenger ferries bound for Paquera and Playa Naranjo depart several times a day from the northwestern dock (Av 3 btwn Calles 31 & 33) in Puntarenas. If you are driving and will be taking the car ferry, arrive at the dock early to get in line. The vehicle section tends to fill up quickly and you may not make it on. In addition, make sure that you have purchased your ticket from the walk-up ticket window before driving onto the ferry. You will not be admitted onto the boat if you don’t already have a ticket.
Schedules change seasonally and can be affected by inclement weather. Check with the ferry office by the dock for any changes. Many of the hotels in town also have up-to-date schedules posted.
Coonatramar (%2661-1069; www.coonatramar.com; adult/child US$2/1.10, car/bike US$18/4) has daily departures to Playa Naranjo (for transfer to Nicoya and points west) at 6:30am, 10am, 2:30pm and 7pm.
Naviera Tambor (%2661-2084; www.navieratambor.com; adult/child US$1.60/1, car/bike US$23/4.40) has daily departures to Paquera (for transfer to Montezuma and Mal País) at 5am, 9am, 11am, 2pm, 5pm and 8:30pm.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Chico’s BarBar
(map; h11am-2am)
When it comes to nightlife, Chico’s is the main game in town, which means that everybody – old, young, Ticos, tourists, rowdy, dowdy – ends up here eventually, especially on Thursday night, which is reggae night. Snag a table on the back patio for a lovely view of the beach and beyond. On the main road parallel to the beach.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
The easiest way to reach Montezuma is to abandon your own vehicle and hop on a boat shuttle from Jacó. It’s also manageable by bus/ferry or car, and the road into town is now paved. Newer shuttle services offer a more convenient service between Montezuma and other peninsula towns, as far as Liberia airport and beyond in some cases. Interbus (www.interbuscostarica.com) and Tropical Tours (%2640 1900, Whatsapp 8890 9197; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com) are the most notable.
