Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, East of Avenue Bosquet
Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet
In the Jewish Quarter, Rue des Rosiers
Restaurant Row Streets near St. Sulpice Church
Map: Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden
Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum
On and near St. Germain-des-Prés
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. Though it lacks a style of its own (only French onion soup is truly Parisian; otherwise, there is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of), it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My restaurant recommendations are centered on the same great neighborhoods listed in the Sleeping in Paris chapter; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always appetizing www.parisbymouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.
To save piles of euros, go to a bakery for takeout, or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (plate of the day, about €16-24) or a chef-like salad (about €12-16) day or night. To save even more, consider picnics (tasty takeout dishes available at charcuteries). Try eating your big meal at lunch, when many fine restaurants offer their dinnertime fixed-price menus at a reduced price.
Linger longer over dinner—restaurants expect you to enjoy a full meal. Most restaurants I’ve listed have set-price menus between €24 and €40. In most cases, the few extra euros you pay are well spent and open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected—see here for tipping advice).
Many restaurants close Sunday and/or Monday. Most open for dinner around 19:00 though some open at 18:30 (noted in the listings in this chapter). It’s becoming more common to serve continuously from lunch until late, making getting into some popular places easy if you arrive early (also noted in this chapter). Last seating is usually at about 22:00. Eat early with tourists or late with locals—smaller restaurants that are popular with locals get crowded after 21:00. If a restaurant is open for lunch and doesn’t serve continuously, the hours are generally 12:00-14:30 (last orders at 14:00). If you want to eat in the late afternoon, when many restaurants are closed, pop in to a brasserie or café. At any eatery, before choosing a seat outside, remember that smokers love outdoor tables.
I rank restaurants from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For details on restaurant pricing; dining in Paris’ restaurants, cafés, and brasseries; getting takeout; and assembling a picnic—as well as a rundown of French cuisine—see here.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
The Rue Cler neighborhood caters to its residents. Its eateries, while not destination places, have an intimate charm. I’ve provided a full range of choices—from cozy ma-and-pa diners to small and trendy boutique restaurants to classic, big, boisterous bistros.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy: Brasserie on speed—crank out good enough food at great prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind a limited selection and want to eat an inexpensive one-course meal among a commotion of people. The chalkboard lists your choices: good, hearty salads or more filling plats du jour. Arrive before 19:00 to avoid long waits (serves continuously, daily 11:00-23:00, no reservations, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 51 27).
$$ Tribeca Restaurant, next door to Café du Marché, is less trendy, serving more varied cuisine. Choose from kid-pleasing burgers and Italian dishes or try the roasted Camembert à la crème (pizzas, pastas, and salads; daily, tel. 01 45 55 12 01).
$$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny and cramped tables—indoors and out, and simple, tasty, inexpensive dishes such as €10 omelets and €8 soup of the moment. Eating outside here with a view of the Rue Cler action can be marvelous (delicious pots de crème, daily, opens early for dinner, arrive early or call in advance, 29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 50 17 50).
$$ Café le Roussillon offers a younger, pub-meets-café ambience with good-value food that works well for families. You’ll find hearty hamburgers, salads, design-your-own omelets, fajitas, and easygoing waiters (daily, serves nonstop from lunch until late, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 47 53). While less charming than other spots, it’s more likely to have a table available.
$ Crêperie Ulysée en Gaule offers cheap seats on Rue Cler with crêpes to go. Readers of this book who buy a drink can enjoy a crêpe at a table for takeaway prices. The family adores its Greek dishes, but their crêpes are your least expensive hot meal on this street (28 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 61 82).
$ Brasserie Aux PTT, a simple traditional café delivering fair-value fare, reminds Parisians of the old days on Rue Cler. Rick Steves diners are promised a free kir with their dinner (good salade niçoise, cheap wine, closed Sun, opposite 53 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 94 96).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. The setting is warm and welcoming. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascale, his chef of more than 20 years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage, lobster ravioli, and confit de canard. The Château Chênaie house wine is excellent (closed Sat-Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).
$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a delicious, vintage French dining experience in an intimate setting. The chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (serves nonstop, closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).
$$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. Located on a corner, it overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (good salades, French onion soup, and foie gras, nonstop service daily until at least 24:00, tel. 01 45 55 00 02).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)
$$$$ L’Ami Jean offers authentic Basque specialties in a snug-but-convivial atmosphere with red peppers and Basque stuff dangling from the ceiling. While pricey, portions are hearty and delicious. Parisians detour long distances to savor the gregarious chef’s special cuisine and fun atmosphere. For dinner arrive before 19:30 or reserve ahead (€80 six-course dinner menu, more accessible lunch menu for €35, closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue Malar, tel. 01 47 05 86 89, www.lamijean.fr).
$$ Chez France, named for its hands-on owner, is a simple place lined with red-velvet booths where the focus is on food, not charming ambience. You must order from the two- or three-course menu. Sit back and trust Chef France to manage your meal (good choices of classic French cuisine, fine wine options, closed Sun, 9 Rue Amelie, tel. 01 45 51 50 08).
$$$ Thoumieux is the neighborhood’s grand brasserie, with a showy interior lined with red velvet chairs, chandeliers, and fussy waiters. It’s a minisplurge but designed as an affordable and user-friendly version of the two-star Michelin restaurant upstairs. Come here for a gourmet brasserie experience. Because it’s popular with locals, it’s quiet until 20:00. Their €20 appetizer plate is an unforgettable meal in itself—and even better when capped with their €14 dessert sampler (daily, 79 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 49 75, www.thoumieux.fr).
$$ O’Brien’s Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish pub/sports bar, where French men toss darts and celebrate good red wine with gourmet hamburgers (daily, 77 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 51 75 87). Along with their pubby barroom they have appealing streetside seating.
$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original, time-warp decor, red-checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler touristic crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (good à la carte choices or three-course menu that changes with the season, well-priced wines, closed Mon, 20 Rue Surcouf, tel. 01 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l’Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler), allowing you to do a quick survey before sitting down.
$$$$ 58 Tour Eiffel, on the tower’s first level, provides a feast for both your belly and your eyes, with incredible city views. Dinner here is pricey and requires a reservation (two seatings: 18:30 with €90-125 menus, and 21:00 with €100-185 menus; reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view, no jeans or tennis shoes at dinner). During the day they serve a €43 picque-nique-chic lunch, which is packaged in a little basket (€20 for kids, daily 11:30-16:30, reservations are a good idea, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro, Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 72 76 18 46, toll tel. 08 25 56 66 62, www.restaurants-toureiffel.com). With a reservation, you ride up for free in the restaurant elevator.
$$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, and pass on the upstairs room (superb foie gras and desserts, daily, 129 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).
$$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Anna serves while hubbie José cooks a tasty range of traditional choices. The homey charm of the tight little dining room makes this place a delight (€36 three-course dinner menu available for €25 at lunch, dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 80 39).
$$$ Pottoka attracts locals willing to book ahead and crowd into this shoebox for a chance to sample tasty Basque cuisine. Service is friendly, wines are reasonable, and the focus is on food rather than decor (daily, reservations smart, 4 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 45 51 88 38, www.pottoka.fr).
$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place for a reasonably priced and delicious meal of classic French dishes prepared with a creative twist. With its simple setting and quality cuisine, it feels more designed for neighbors than tourists. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to a convivial counter (closed Sun, 11 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 50 10 90, www.cafedemars.com).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the area. This humble time-warp place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine here because “it’s like eating at home.” Gentle Guillaume is a fine host (closed Sat-Sun, 212 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 53 92 90).
$$ Affordable Italian: You’ll find two good choices for reasonably priced Italian cuisine in the neighborhood. Ristorante Gloria is more refined and more spacious (108 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 56 00 98). Ristorante Gusto is more fun, tight, and characteristic (199 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 45 55 00 43).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire or Train-C: Pont de l’Alma)
Ever since leaving the venerable Hôtel Crillon, famed chef Christian Constant has made a career of taking the “snoot” out of French cuisine—and making it accessible to people like us. Today you’ll find three of his restaurants strung along one block of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is cheap, but they’re all a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.
$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres, where Christian won his first Michelin star, makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a chic eating scene—hushed and elegant. Service is formal yet helpful; the cuisine is what made this restaurateur’s reputation (order à la carte or consider their €110 seven-course tasting menu, cheaper weekday lunch menu, daily, reservations essential, 135 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 55 15 05, www.maisonconstant.com).
$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of trendy Parisians and tourists with its fun energy and creative dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots (tasty soups, daily, nonstop service from noon until late, go early as they don’t take reservations, 135 Rue St. Dominique).
$$ Café Constant is a cool, two-level place that feels more like a small bistro-wine bar than a café. Delicious and well-priced dishes are served in a snug setting. Arrive as early as you want to get a table downstairs—the upstairs seating lacks character (daily, opens at 7:00 for breakfast, meals served nonstop 12:00-23:00, no reservations, corner of Rue Augereau and Rue St. Dominique, next to recommended Hôtel de Londres Eiffel, tel. 01 47 53 73 34).
Picnics with floodlit views of the Eiffel Tower or along the riverside promenade are très romantique, and Rue Cler is a festival of food just waiting to be celebrated. For an unforgettable picnic dinner, assemble it in no fewer than five shops on Rue Cler. For less character and more efficiency, there are fine supermarkets (long hours daily) next to the recommended Hôtel la Bourdonnais (Avenue de la Bourdonnais) and Hôtel Bosquet (Rue du Champ de Mars). Small, late-night groceries are at 197 Rue de Grenelle, as well as where Rues Cler and Grenelle cross. If a picnic is too much work, delis (such as Traiteur Jeusselin at 37 Rue Cler, open until 19:00) sell fine hot meals to go.
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls—with a few notable exceptions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le Tourville and Café des Officiers gather a sea of outward-facing seats for the important business of people-watching.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less pretentious clientele (see listing, earlier). On Rue Cler, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American café crowd until at least midnight, though the younger-in-spirit L’Eclair cocktail café (a few doors down at #32) rocks it until very late. Café Roussillon has a good French pubby atmosphere at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler. O’Brien’s Pub (also listed earlier) is a sports bar that might have an American game on late.
If it’s a balmy evening, I’d hike down to the riverside and enjoy the bar scene under Pont Alexandre III, where several lively places serve drinks and fun until the wee hours (see the “Make the Scene on the Seine for Dinner” sidebar, earlier).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying good food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of eateries—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a memorable experience.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.
$$$ La Place Royale offers an exceptional location on the square with comfortable seating inside or out, and is ideal for a relaxed lunch. Expect patient waiters (owner Arnaud prides himself on service), and a menu with salads and classic dishes. The cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and the lengthy wine list is reasonable. The €42 menu comes with three courses, a half-bottle of wine per person, and coffee; or just order a salad—or split one before a main course—and call it good (lunch specials, daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, 2 bis Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 78 58 16).
$$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a fun energy. The food’s just ok, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 72 64 04).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Chemin Vert)
$$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy and youthful crowd intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the happy commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens at 19:00, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, tel. 01 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur, browse the list above the bar).
$$$ Le Petit Marché, popular with tourists, delivers a cozy bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a delicious cuisine that blends French classics with a slight Asian influence (daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, tel. 01 42 72 06 67).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Bastille)
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution for over a century, specializes in seafood and traditional cuisine with Alsatian flair. You’ll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-and-white-attired waiters. Come here for the one-of-a-kind ambience in the elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms, reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Reserve ahead to dine under the memorable, grand 1919 coupole (avoid eating upstairs). If you’ve always wanted one of those pricey picturesque seafood platters, this is a good place, though the Alsatian dishes are far cheaper (open daily for lunch and for dinner, fun kids’ menu, 5 Rue de la Bastille, don’t be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, tel. 01 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).
$$$ Le Temps des Cerises is a warm place with wads of character, a young and lively vibe, tight inside seating, and a couple of outdoor tables. (There are a few more upstairs that I’d avoid.) Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar, and stay for a very tasty dinner. Owner Ben takes good care of his guests and serves generous portions (reasonable wine list, daily, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, tel. 01 42 72 08 63).
$ Crêpes and Pizza: Two budget finds sit side-by-side where Rue St-Paul meets Rue Neuve St-Pierre. Both are open daily and have good but limited seating inside and out. Crêpolog dishes out a tasty range of appetizer, main course, and dessert crêpes using fresh batter (tel. 01 43 48 28 34). La Cerise sur la Pizza (“Cherry on the Pizza”) fires up great-looking pizza (eat there or to go, tel. 01 84 16 64 84).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Paul)
$$$ At Chez Mademoiselle, the country-elegant, candlelit decor recalls charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. Enjoy a French-paced (a.k.a. slow) dinner in a relaxing atmosphere (tables have generous spacing) inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. Let Alexia share her enthusiasm for her seasonal dishes before you choose. The tender château filet is served all year, but most dishes follow the seasons (good wine list, daily from 19:30, 16 Rue Charlemagne, tel. 01 42 72 14 16).
$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory—and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. They talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink (closed Mon, serves nonstop 11:30-late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue du Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 13 77, www.breizhcafe.com).
$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square, just off Rue St. Antoine, is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, this is a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents breathe. Survey the square. You’ll find three French bistros with similar features and menus: Le Marché, Chez Joséphine, and Le Bistrot de la Place (all open daily, cheaper for lunch, tight seating on simple chairs indoors and out). At Chez Joséphine the cuisine takes a back seat to its lively drink scene—I’d choose between the other two.
$$ Les Bougresses, just off the charming square, offers less romance but more taste for the same price. Stepping inside, you feel like you’ve joined a food lovers’ party with owners Mika and Constantin overseeing the conviviality (inside seating only, daily from 18:30, 6 Rue de Jarente, tel. 01 48 87 71 21).
$ On Rue St. Antoine: Several hardworking Asian fast-food eateries, great for an inexpensive meal, line this street.
(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose from several indoor zones with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from two dozen zakouskis (hot and cold hor d’oeuvres) to assemble your plat. Vegetarians will find great options (takeaway falafel sandwiches, long hours daily, corner of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais, tel. 01 42 72 18 86).
$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch and popular on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake up an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily 9:00-19:00 but only dessert-type items offered after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 42 72 90 61).
$ Falafel Row is a series of inexpensive joints serving filling falafel sandwiches (and other Jewish dishes to go or to eat in) that line Rue des Rosiers between Rue des Ecouffes and Rue Vieille du Temple. Take a stroll along this short stretch to compare, then decide. Their takeout services draw a constant crowd (long hours most days, most are closed Fri evening and all day Sat).
$ La Droguerie, a hole-in-the-wall crêpe stand on Rue des Rosiers near Rue Vieille du Temple, is a good budget option if falafels don’t work for you but cheap does. Grab a stool, or get a crêpe to go and smile with the friendly owner/crêpe master (daily 12:00-22:00, 56 Rue des Rosiers).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)
$$$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering, the bœuf bourguignon could feed two, and the hamburger à l’Epoisses is a hit (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, tel. 01 48 87 15 40).
$$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating on flimsy chairs and an artsy interior, it’s good for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a warm evening. Their €15 bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you would typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (daily 12:00-21:30, closes earlier in winter, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, tel. 01 42 74 70 57).
$$ Au Petit Fer à Cheval delivers classic seating ideal for admiring the Marais’ active night scene. The horseshoe-shaped zinc bar carbonates rich conversation—and the rear room is old-world adorable, but the few outdoor tables are street-theater perfect. The food is fairly priced, standard café fare (daily, 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 47 47).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from, with a salad bar, pizza by the slice, and pasta. It’s family-easy (daily, 11:00-19:00, hot food served until 16:00, open later Wed, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Picnic at peaceful Place des Vosges (closes at dusk), Square George Caïn (near the Carnavalet Museum), or on the Ile St. Louis quais. Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store (closed Sun, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You’ll find a small grocery open until 23:00 on Ile St. Louis.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie. There’s also a line of bars and cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north of Rue de Rivoli—the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar (see above) and the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action. Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La Perla dishes up imitation Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian millennials in search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Myron, tel. 01 42 77 59 40).
$ Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It’s perfect for immersing yourself in today’s Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, a little gay, fun-loving, easygoing...and sans tourists. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools or streetside to watch the constant Marais parade (daily 7:00-24:00, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 40 29 02 18).
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la Bastille, it’s one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy “three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window shopping the art galleries.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
(Mo: Pont Marie)
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the island’s main street for a variety of options, and after dinner, sample Paris’ favorite ice cream (described later) before strolling across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (see map on here).
$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy, medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill hearty wine. For dinner they serve up rustic, all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies and bundles of saucisson (cut whatever you like with your dagger), plates of pâté, a meat course, cheese, a dessert, and all the wine you can stomach for €40. The food is perfectly edible; burping is encouraged. If you want to overeat, drink too much wine, be surrounded by tourists (mostly French), and holler at your friends while receiving smart-aleck buccaneer service, you’re home. If you stay later, the atmosphere progresses from sloppy to frat party (daily, 39 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 66 07).
$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a tasty, lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (daily, serves nonstop, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, tel. 01 43 25 76 67).
$$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic-yet-elegant place with soft lighting, comfortable spacious seating, and a hushed ambience. The cuisine is traditional though inconsistent in quality, with occasional modern touches (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 93 98).
$$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel serves basic French cuisine at reasonable prices. Along with like-mother-made-it comfort food, he serves good dinner salads (closed Wed, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 07 87).
$ Café Med, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery crêperie with good-value salads, crêpes, pasta, and several meat dishes (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 29 73 17). Two similar crêperies are just across the street.
$$ Au Bougnat, a block north of Notre-Dame on nearby Ile de la Cité, is a picturesque place with good tables inside and out. It’s where local cops and workers get sandwiches, coffee, and reasonably priced menus (daily, 26 Rue Chanoinesse, tel. 01 43 54 50 74).
Ice-Cream Dessert: Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice-cream cone because this is the home of the famous les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer little tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 44 07 48 08). Having some of each is not a bad thing.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
Sleeping in the Luxembourg neighborhood puts you near many appealing dining and after-hours options. Because my hotels cluster near St. Sulpice Church, the Panthéon, and Rue de Sèvres, I’ve focused my restaurant picks in the same areas. Restaurants around St. Sulpice tend to be boisterous; those near the Panthéon are calmer; it’s a short walk from one area to the other.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: St-Sulpice or St-Germain-des-Près)
Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde teem with busy eateries offering a lively selection of low-brow cuisine at generally affordable prices. It’s hard to recommend one over the next, but it’s a fun neighborhood to browse—offering what many hope to find in the Latin Quarter (but don’t).
Two Rue Guisarde places stand out from the rest for a good meal: $$$ Monte Verdi serves Italian cuisine in two rooms—and there’s piano music nightly from 20:00. One room is more romantic with cushy seating and the piano close by; the other is more “bar stools and friends” (closed Sun, 5 Rue Guisarde, tel. 01 42 34 55 90). And $$$ Chez Fernand is good for a great range of classic French bistro fare, with tight seating, red-checkered tablecloths, and booths to match (13 Rue Guisarde, tel. 01 43 54 61 47).
On Rue des Canettes you’ll find a down-and-dirty bar, Chez Georges, with a dank cellar for a drink before or after dinner (#11), and almost across the street, a couple of simple $ crêperies. Closer to Place St. Sulpice, $$$ Boucherie Roulière has good steak but not much ambience (#24, tel. 01 43 26 25 70).
A block north of Boulevard St. Germain (toward the river), Rue de Buci has a lineup of bars, cafés, and bistros targeted toward a young, trendy clientele. It’s terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late. Consider $$ Café de Paris, a classic brasserie with hearty and creative dinner salads (daily, 10 Rue de Buci, tel. 01 46 34 84 11).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Odéon)
$ Pasta Luna is a deli specializing in porky fare from the southernmost French island of Corsica. The proud owner lovingly and slowly makes cheap sandwiches to order. Try the sheep cheese with fig jam or the cured pork loin (served from 11:00 until the bread runs out—usually about 19:00, closed Sun, 15 Rue Mézières, tel. 01 45 44 32 02).
$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine takes you back to 1906 with an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. It’s like having dinner with Gustav Klimt and a bunch of tourists. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters give it an inviting conviviality. Check upstairs before choosing a table. Their roast suckling pig (€20) is a favorite. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, tel. 01 44 32 15 60, www.bouillon-racine.com).
$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a pastel and dressy setting...with similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are sophisticated yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).
$$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a place to savor a light meal with a stylish young crowd (but only in good weather, as it’s all outdoors). The menu offers a limited selection of cheese and meat platters at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating light but well in such a Parisian setting (good salads, reasonable plats, May-Oct daily 12:00-23:00, no reservations, Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 85 41 30).
$$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a trendy, less tourist-friendly splurge where trusting foodies book long in advance to enjoy gourmet dishes with a modern flair. In a lively and jammed, street-front setting, you’ll eat what the chef cooks—the lone menu changes daily based on his inspiration, and there are no other choices and no English translations (delicious five-course €60 menu, daily, reservations smart but only accepted Mon-Thu, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 27 07 97).
$$ L’Avant Comptoir and L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer are two stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bars sitting next door to the mothership restaurant (described above). They serve an array of both French-Basque tapas and seafood tapas on sleek zinc counters. With illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceilings, these popular (and pretty intense) places are designed to make the cuisine from the pricey Le Comptoir more accessible. At the walk-up counters outside, you can get top quality sandwiches, crêpes, or seafood to go (for less and with less commotion). But step inside for the foodie bar and it’s another world (daily 12:00-23:00, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon).
$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s much loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France. The drawers you see at the back? They hold napkins for regulars (daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, cash only, no reservations, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, tel. 01 43 26 95 34).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Cluny-La Sorbonne or Train-B: Luxembourg)
$$$ Les Papilles is worth the walk. You’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine in a warm, woody bistro and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Choose your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead and make sure that you’re OK with what he’s cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, tel. 01 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).
$$ Le Pré Verre, a block from the Cluny Museum, is a welcoming wine bistro. It’s a great find even if you have a long walk to get here. Hands-on owner Jean-François serves imaginative, modern cuisine at fair prices (inside and out), and packs his place with locals. The €15 bargain lunch menu includes a starter, main course, glass of wine, and coffee (no menus at dinner but fair prices, good wine list, closed Sun-Mon, 8 Rue Thénard, reservations necessary, tel. 01 43 54 59 47, www.lepreverre.com).
$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, tel. 01 43 26 57 56).
$$ Café de l’Ecritoire sits on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. It’s a typical brasserie with salads, plats du jour, and good seating inside and out (daily, 3 Place de la Sorbonne, tel. 01 43 54 60 02).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Sèvres-Babylone)
$$ Au Sauvignon Café is perfectly positioned for a predinner drink and people-watching. The interior is vintage Paris, with wall-to-ceiling decor and a fine zinc bar (daily, 80 Rue des Saints-Pères, tel. 01 45 48 49 02).
$$$ La Petite Chaise, founded in 1680, is Paris’ oldest restaurant (which alone justifies the trip here for me). Offering a good selection of traditional dishes, generous servings, and formal but friendly service, it appeals to those in search of a classic Parisian dining experience (terrific three-course dinner menu, daily, 36 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 42 22 13 35).
$$ Le Basile is full of young, loud, and happy eaters thrilled to have found a place where drinks are cheap and nothing on the menu costs more than €18 (open daily from 7:00, food served 12:00-23:00, 34 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 42 22 59 46).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Censier Daubenton or Place Monge)
Several blocks behind the Panthéon, Rue Mouffetard is a conveyor belt of comparison-shopping eaters with wall-to-wall budget options (fondue, crêpes, Italian, falafel, and Greek). Come here to sift through the crowds and eat cheaply. This street stays up late and likes to party. The gauntlet begins on top, at thriving Place de la Contrescarpe, and ends below where Rue Mouffetard stops at St. Médard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-man’s-land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun seekers is enjoyable, whether you eat or not. For locations, see map on here.
$$$ Café Delmas, at the top of Rue Mouffetard on picturesque Place de la Contrescarpe, is the place to see and be seen. Come here for an expensive before- or after-dinner drink on the terrace or typical but pricey café cuisine (open daily, 2 Place de la Contrescarpe, tel. 01 43 26 51 26).
$$ Cave de Bourgogne, a local hangout, has reasonably priced café fare at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables; the interior is warm and lively (daily, 144 Rue Mouffetard, tel. 01 47 07 82 80).
Montmartre can be hit or miss; the top of the hill is extremely touristy, with mindless mobs following guides to cancan shows. But if you walk a few blocks away, you’ll find a quieter, more authentic meal at one of the places I’ve listed below. For locations, see map on here.
(Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are perfect for a picnic with a view, though the spot comes with lots of company. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the church. Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several fun piano bars serve mediocre crêpes and overpriced bistro fare but offer great people-watching. The options become less touristy and more tasty as you escape from the top of the hill.
$$ Restaurant Chez Plumeau, just off jam-packed Place du Tertre, is touristy yet moderately priced, with fun seating either in a characteristic dining room or on a tiny square under a wisteria arbor (elaborate salads, daily, 4 Place du Calvaire, Mo: Abbesses, tel. 01 46 06 26 29).
$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good budget choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, cheap plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 23 Rue Muller, Mo: Anvers, tel. 01 42 64 02 67).
(Mo: Abbesses unless otherwise noted)
At the bottom of Montmartre, residents pile into a long lineup of brasseries and cafés near Place des Abbesses. Locals tend to gravitate to the cafés on the north side of Rue des Abbesses, leaving the sunnier and pricier cafés on the south side to visitors. Come here for a lively, less touristy scene. Rue des Abbesses is perfect for a picnic-gathering stroll with cheese shops, delis, wine stores, and bakeries. In fact, the bakers at Grenier à Pain (closed Tue-Wed, 38 Rue des Abbesses) and at Au Levain d’Antan (closed Sat-Sun, 6 Rue des Abbesses) have won an award for the best baguette in Paris. Cuillier serves a damn good cup of coffee (as their signs say) as well as offering baked goods, quiches, sandwiches, soups...and Wi-Fi (daily, 19 Rue Yvonne le Tac).
$$ L’Epicerie-Rotisserie Jeanne B, a colorful eatery somewhere between a deli and a restaurant, occupies a sweet spot between Montmartre’s hilltop and Place des Abbesses. It serves fresh dishes from its open kitchen to a discerning clientele (nonstop daily from 10:30 until late, 61 Rue Lepic, tel. 01 42 51 17 53).
$$$ Autour de Midi et Minuit is a classic French bistro sitting on top of a jazz cellar (see here for concert details). Find hot food upstairs and cool jazz downstairs (closed Mon, 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48).
$$ Le Village is a dive bar turned trendy, serving tiny cups of espresso to garbage collectors in the morning and to mustached nonconformists in the afternoon. They have one or two warm plats du jour and several meat-and-cheese-plate combinations (daily 7:00-24:00, 36 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 54 99 59).
$$ Le Relais Gascon is a cool bistro with a string of tables lining its front, a warm interior, and a focus on cuisine from France’s southwest regions (daily, serves nonstop from noon until late, 6 Rue des Abbesses, tel. 01 42 58 58 22).
$ La Fourmi, sitting at the bottom of the hill, is a raucous café/bar with lovable rough edges. Open all day, they offer coffee, croissants, and simple, affordable lunches. In the evening, the place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, tel. 01 42 64 70 35, Eloise).
On Rue des Trois Frères: This street, alive with bars and eateries, is a fun place to comparison shop. Cave à Jojo (#26) anchors the northern edge of the street, with generous cheese and charcuterie plates and an accordion-fueled ambience straight out of the 1950s (closed Sun, 18:00-late, accordion players on Sat nights, tel. 01 42 62 58 54). Across the way at Le Jardin d’en Face (#29), you’ll find more vegetable-focused cooking and outdoor seating (daily, tel. 01 53 28 00 75). La Gûepe (#14), one of the liveliest spots on the street, serves cocktails and small plates that are fun to share (closed Mon, 18:00-late, tel. 01 42 64 98 32).
The following companies all offer $$$$ lunch and dinner cruises (reservations required). Bateaux-Mouches and Bateaux Parisiens have the best reputations and the highest prices; Le Capitaine Fracasse is a tad more relaxed. All offer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good views. Ask ahead about proper attire—“smart dress” is required (no denim, shorts, or sport shoes). Earlier cruises (around 18:00) offer cheaper menus than later cruises; prices also vary with seating.
Bateaux Parisiens, considered the best of the lot, features a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor. Several departures leave daily from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the Eiffel Tower (Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 76 64 14 45, www.bateauxparisiens.com). On board, the middle level is best. Pay the extra euros to get seats next to the windows—it’s more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Bateaux-Mouches, started in 1949 and hands-down the most famous, entertains with violin and piano music. You can’t miss its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l’Alma (Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr).
Le Capitaine Fracasse and Paris En Scène are your budget options (boarding times vary by season and day of week, walk down stairs in the middle of Bir-Hakeim bridge near the Eiffel Tower to Iles aux Cygne, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 46 21 48 15, www.croisiere-paris.com).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
Here’s a short list of grand (expensive) Parisian cafés, worth the detour only if you’ve got the time and money for such touristy elegance. Think of these cafés as monuments to another time, and learn why they still matter (see sidebar). For tips on enjoying Parisian cafés, review the “Cafés and Brasseries” section on here; for locations, see the map on here. All are open daily.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: St. Germain-des-Prés)
Where Boulevard St. Germain meets Rue Bonaparte (and nearby) you’ll find several cafés.
$$$ Les Deux Magots offers prime outdoor seating and a warm interior. Once a favorite of Ernest Hemingway (in The Sun Also Rises, Jake met Brett here) and Jean-Paul Sartre (he and Simone de Beauvoir met here), today the café is filled with international tourists (6 Place St. Germain-des-Prés, tel. 01 45 48 55 25).
$$$ Café de Flore, on the next block, feels more literary—wear your black turtleneck. Pablo Picasso was a regular at the time he painted Guernica (172 Boulevard St. Germain-des-Prés, tel. 01 45 48 55 26).
$$ Le Procope, Paris’ first and most famous café (1686), was a café célèbre, drawing notables such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Balzac, Zola, Robespierre, Victor Hugo, and two Americans, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. The dining rooms are beautiful, but the cuisine is average (13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, tel. 01 40 46 79 00).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
(Mo: Vavin)
An eclectic assortment of historic cafés gathers along the busy Boulevard du Montparnasse near its intersection with Boulevard Raspail. Combine these historic cafés with a visit to Luxembourg Garden, which lies just a few blocks away, down Rue Vavin (next to Le Select).
$$$ La Coupole, built in the 1920s, was decorated by aspiring artists (Léger, Brancusi, and Chagall, among others) in return for free meals. It still supports artists with regular showings on its vast walls. This cavernous café feels like a classy train station, with acres of seating, brass decor, and tuxedoed waiters by the dozen. The food is basic and the service impersonal, but you come for the crazy social scene (food served from 12:00 until the wee hours, come early to get better service, 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, tel. 01 43 20 14 20).
$$$ Le Select, more easygoing and traditional, was once popular with the more rebellious types—Leon Trotsky, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso loved it. It feels rather conformist today, with good outdoor seating and pleasant tables just inside the door—though the locals hang out at the bar farther inside (99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, across from La Coupole, tel. 01 45 48 38 24).
$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, tel. 01 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).