Standard bind off. K1, *K1, insert the left needle into the stitch on the right, pass it over the other stitch and off the needle; repeat from *. At the end of the row, cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch to prevent it from unraveling.
Sewing stitch used to secure buttonholes to prevent fraying.
Cable cast on. A firm cast on with a ropelike edge. Cast on 2 stitches using the knitted cast on. *Insert the right needle between the 2 stitches (A). Knit up a stitch, leaving the 2 original stitches on the left needle (B). Insert the left needle up into the new stitch from the front and slip it off the right needle. Repeat from *, knitting each new stitch between the last 2 stitches cast on.
Crocheted cast on. Also called the bind-off cast on, because its chain mimics a bound-off edge. It may be used as a provisional cast on if worked in waste yarn or as a decorative cast on if worked in a contrasting yarn. You need a crochet hook in addition to one of your knitting needles and yarn. Make a slip knot and place it on the crochet hook. Cross the crochet hook in front of the knitting needle (A). *Bring the yarn behind the knitting needle (B), chain a stitch with the crochet hook (C). Repeat from *. Note that the yarn may be held in either hand.
If this is worked in a contrasting yarn, either as a decorative or a provisional cast on, repeat until the desired number of stitches is on the needle, cut the contrasting yarn and pull it through the last chain stitch to secure. Change colors and begin knitting as usual. To remove the waste yarn later, pick this tail back out, unravel the chain, and place the stitches on a knitting needle.
If this is worked to put a chain across the bottom edge and is not in contrasting yarn, stop when there is one less than the desired number of stitches, transfer the final chain stitch from the crochet hook to the knitting needle. Do not cut the yarn — just continue knitting with it.
Knitted cast on. A loose cast on, useful when edges need to be stretchy or when loops are desired for fringe. Make a slip knot, leaving a short tail and place it on your left needle. *Knit a stitch, leaving the original stitch on the needle (A). Insert the left needle up into the new stitch from the front (B), tighten up the stitch. Repeat from * until you have enough stitches (C).
Long-tail cast on. Pull out a length of yarn for the long tail, about three times as long as the width of your knitting, plus a few inches. Make a slip knot at this point and place it on the needle. Hold the needle in your right hand with the index finger on the slip knot to prevent it from sliding off. Arrange the yarn in your left hand, with the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger (A). *Insert the needle up through the loop around your thumb (B), bring it over and behind the front strand on your index finger (C), then back out through the thumb loop to form a stitch (D). Drop the thumb loop, place your thumb behind the long tail and use it to tighten the loop. Repeat from *.
Loop cast on. A very simple, very loose cast on, useful when you want to be able to adjust the tension easily after the knitting is completed. It is just a series of half-hitches placed on the needle. This is only one of many ways to work this cast on: Hold the cut end of the yarn against your left palm. *Bring your thumb to the front under the yarn (A). Slip the needle up into the loop on your thumb (B). Slip your thumb out (C). Repeat from *.
Ribbed cable cast on. Work as for the cable cast on, but alternately knit and purl between the last two stitches. To purl, insert the needle between the two stitches from the back.
A method of knitting that makes a tube. Larger tubes, such as bodies of sweaters, are made on circular needles; smaller tubes, such as socks and mittens, on sets of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (dpns) or on two circular needles.
Circular needles. Cast on as usual, then spread the stitches from point to point on the needle. Make sure that the cast-on row doesn’t spiral around the needle at any point. Join the beginning and end of round as described below (see Joining into a round), then work continuously around.
Double-pointed needles (dpns). Cast on all stitches on one needle, then slip some of the stitches to two or three other needles. Arrange the needles to form a triangle or square. Make sure the right side is facing you and the cast-on row doesn’t spiral around any needle at any point. Join the beginning and end of the round using one of the methods described below (see Joining into a round). Using an empty needle, knit across the first cast-on needle. When you are finished, you have emptied a needle. Use this to knit across the second needle. Continue around, working each needle in succession, using the needle you just emptied as the new working needle.
Two circular needles. Cast on half the stitches on one needle and half on the other. Bring the needle points with the first and last cast-on stitches together, being careful not to twist or untwist the cast on where the other ends of the two needles come together, and check to make sure that the knitting doesn’t spiral around either needle at any point (A). Join the beginning and end of round as described below (see Joining into a round). Holding both ends of the first needle, work all of those stitches onto that same needle. Put down the first needle and pick up both ends of the second needle. Work all of the stitches on the second needle onto itself. Continue around, alternating needles (B).
Joining into a round. There are several options:
Knit 2 together (K2tog). Insert the right needle into the first two stitches knitwise and knit them together.
Knit 2 together through the back loop (K2tog tbl). Insert the right needle into the back of the first two stitches knitwise and knit them together.
Purl 2 together (P2tog). Insert the right needle into the first two stitches and purl them together.
Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (skp). Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one and off the needle.
Slip, slip, knit (ssk). Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, slip another stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these two stitches and knit them together.
Slip, slip, purl (ssp). Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, slip another stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these two stitches knitwise and slip them back to the left needle together (A). Reinsert the right needle purlwise and purl the two stitches together (B).
Knit 3 together (K3tog). Insert the right needle into the first 3 stitches knitwise and knit them together.
Purl 3 together (P3tog). Insert the right needle into the first 3 stitches purlwise and purl them together.
Raised double decrease (Slip 2, K1, p2sso). Insert the right needle knitwise into the first two stitches, as if to knit them together, and slip them to the right needle. Knit 1 (A). Pass the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch and off the needle (B).
Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (slip 1, K2tog, psso). Slip 1 knitwise. Knit 2 together (A). Pass the slipped stitch over (B).
A method of embroidering with yarn on the surface of the knitting that follows the structure of the knitted stitch.
Knit side, horizontal rows. Bring the point of the yarn needle up through the bottom of the stitch. *Sew behind two strands along the top of the stitch (A). Sew back through the bottom of the stitch and under two strands to the bottom of the next stitch (B). Repeat from *. You may work from either right to left or left to right. Single stitches are also worked using this method.
Knit side, vertical columns. Start with the top stitch. Bring the point of the yarn needle up through the bottom of the stitch. Sew behind two strands along the top of the stitch (A). Sew back through the bottom of the stitch and pull the yarn through to the back of the fabric (B). *Bring the needle and yarn up through the center of the next stitch below (C). Sew behind the base of the stitch above, under just the two strands of duplicate stitch (D). Sew back through the bottom of the stitch and pull the yarn through to the back of the fabric (E). Repeat from *.
Purl side. The yarn should not show on the knit side of the fabric. This technique is used only for working in ends invisibly or to adjust the tension and alignment of the stitches to improve the appearance of the right side of the fabric. *Sew under two purl bumps from bottom to top (A). Sew under the next two purl bumps from top to bottom (B). Repeat from *. Work right to left or left to right.
The tightness (or looseness) of your knitting. This is usually measured in stitches or rows per 4” (10 cm).
A simple knot formed from a twisted loop. The half hitch is used in the loop cast on and the Make 1 increase. The working yarn can also be tied in a half hitch around a ball of yarn to allow it to be dangled in the air and untwisted.
Knit into the front and back. Knit into the stitch, leaving it on the left needle. Bring the right needle to the back of the work, knit into the back loop of the stitch and slip it off the needle.
Make 1 (M1). There are many ways to work the M1 increase:
Left slant: lifted. Insert left needle from front under the top strand between the two needles (A), then knit into the back of the stitch to twist it (B).
Left slant: working yarn. Make a small loop of the working yarn close to the needle, twist it clockwise and place it on the needle.
Right slant: lifted. Insert left needle from back under the strand between the two needles (A), then knit into the front of the stitch to twist it (B).
Right slant: working yarn. Make a small loop of the working yarn close to the needle, twist it counterclockwise, and place it on the needle.
Open. Insert the left needle from the front under strand then knit this new stitch. This makes an increase that is open like a yarn over, but doesn’t leave as large a hole.
Yarn over. Work a yarn over on the increase row, then knit into the back of this stitch on the following row to twist it. This makes a left-slanting increase and is useful when the first two options are too tight to work easily. (See also Yarn Over, page 303.)
Knit-purl-knit into a stitch. Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front, purl into the stitch, yarn back, knit into the stitch, and slip it off the needle.
Knit-yo-knit into a stitch. Knit into the stitch as usual, but leave it on the left needle (A). Yarn over, knit into the stitch again, and slip it off the needle (B).
Hold the two pieces of knitting with wrong sides together. If you are right-handed, point the needles to the right; if you are left-handed, reverse them. Use a yarn needle threaded with matching yarn. If the working yarn is hanging at the edge, cut it to a comfortable length and use it.
*Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front knitting needle and slip it off. Insert the yarn needle into the next stitch on the front knitting needle purlwise, leave it on the knitting needle (A) and gently pull up the slack in the yarn. Insert the yarn needle into the first stitch on the back knitting needle purlwise (B) and slip the stitch off. Insert the yarn needle into the next stitch on the back knitting needle knitwise (C), leave it on the knitting needle and pull up the slack in the yarn. Repeat from *. As you work, adjust the tension of the sewn stitches to match the rows above and below.
These instructions are for stockinette stitch. For garter stitch, repeat the instructions for the front needle on the back needle.
Yarn in left hand. With the knit side facing you, the stitches to be worked on the right-hand needle, and the yarn in back, insert the left needle knitwise (through the front of the stitch to the back of the right needle) into the first stitch on the right needle (A). Bring the yarn over the left (back) needle tip to the front, then under it to the back (B). You may need to let go of the left needle in order to wrap the yarn. Lift the loop of the old stitch over the tip of the left needle with the right needle, or pull it through with the left needle. Slide the right needle out of the loop.
Yarn in right hand. With the knit side facing you and the yarn in back, insert the left needle knitwise (through the front of the stitch to the back of the right needle [A]). Bring the yarn around the left (back) needle tip from back to front (B). Lift the loop of the old stitch over the tip of the left needle with the right needle, or pull it through with the left needle. Slide the right needle out of the loop.
Yarn in left hand. *Insert right-hand needle into the stitch (A). Bring the tip of the needle over and behind the working yarn or use the left hand to wrap the yarn around the needle (B). Hook the yarn back through the stitch with a twist of the right-hand needle (C). Slip the old stitch off the left needle (D). Repeat from *. Keep the yarn near the first joint of your index finger while you work. If it slides up and down, wrap it around the finger once to keep it in place. If the tension on the working yarn is too loose, wrap it once around your index or any other finger to control it. Once you get used to it, this will become a smooth in-and-out movement, rather than separate steps. (See also Purl Stitch.)
Yarn in right hand. *Insert right-hand needle into the front of the stitch. Wrap the yarn around the needle counterclockwise (A). Pull it through the stitch with tip of needle (B). Slip the old stitch off the left needle (C). Repeat from *. With practice, you will work more quickly and this will become a smooth in-out-and-off motion, rather than separate steps. If you find it difficult to hold the yarn, try wrapping it once around one of your fingers or holding it against your palm with the little and ring fingers. (See also Purl Stitch.)
For garter edge stitches. Lay the two pieces side by side on a flat surface with the right side facing you. Thread a yarn needle with matching yarn. Work from bottom to top, sewing through just the bumps at the edge of the fabric. This seam has very little bulk and is reversible (A). For a neater, more substantial but nonreversible seam, sew through the tops of the stitches (curved like a frown) just in from the edge (B). Regardless of which technique you use, pull the yarn tight enough that the sewn lengths are about the same length as the stitches on either side.
For Stockinette edge stitches. Work as for mattress stitch on garter stitch edges, but sew between the edge stitch and the one next to it, under just one strand (A). To make a less bulky seam, sew under two strands with every stitch (B). Work alternately on one side of the seam and then the other, always inserting the needle at the point where the yarn emerges from the previous stitch. Pull the yarn tight enough to draw the two edges together and hide the sewing yarn but loose enough that the seam will stretch a little.
A simple pattern stitch that produces a small checkerboard of purled and knitted squares, each 2 stitches wide and 2 rows tall.
CAST ON A MULTIPLE OF 2 STITCHES.
ROW 1: *K2, P2; repeat from *. End with either K2 or P2.
ROW 2: Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
ROW 3: Knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches.
ROW 4: Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Throughout this book, the terms “pick up” and “pick up and knit” are used interchangeably.
Along garter edges. Insert your needle through the tiny bumps at the end of each garter stitch ridge. Wrap the yarn around the needle and knit the stitch out to the front. This works best on straight edges. For curved edges, like armholes and neck openings, pick up a whole stitch from the edge for a smoother finish, as described for stockinette (below).
Along stockinette edges. Insert the tip of your needle through the fabric to the back, a whole stitch in from the edge. Wrap the yarn around it and knit the stitch out to the front.
Along the top or bottom. Insert the needle directly into a stitch, wrap the yarn, and knit up a stitch (A). If your knitting is upside down, this is actually the space between 2 stitches, but it looks just like a stitch (B).
Yarn in left hand. Hold the yarn pulled taut (but not too tight!) in front of the left needle. Insert right-hand needle into the stitch from right to left. Make sure the tip of it is behind the yarn stretching up to your index finger (A). Move your left index finger down and to the front so the yarn is taut over the tip of the right needle (B). Hook the yarn back through the stitch with the right needle (C). Slip the original stitch off the left needle (D). (See also Knit Stitch.)
Yarn in right hand. Hold the yarn in front of the needles. Insert the right-hand needle into the stitch from right to left (A). Wrap the yarn around the needle counterclockwise (B). Pull it through the stitch with the right needle tip (C). Slip the original stitch off the left needle (D). (See also Knit Stitch.)
A simple pattern stitch that can be worked on any number of stitches. Repeat K1, P1 across the first row. On subsequent rows, knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches. This produces a checkerboard of knits and purls.
A method of shaping that involves working partway across a row and then turning back before finishing the row. A series of short rows makes it possible to shape a piece seamlessly or to manipulate the grain of the fabric to make it appear to have been made in separate pieces.
For the seam to show on the outside, place the wrong sides of the pieces together. Begin with a slip knot on your crochet hook. *Insert the crochet hook through both layers and hook up a new loop (A), then chain another loop through the two now on your hook (B). Repeat from *. To make the chain lie directly above the seam rather than to one side, alternately hook new stitches up from one side of the seam, then the other. Adjust the tension to match your knitting.
A length of yarn wound in a loose coil. This term is also sometimes used to refer to a commercially wound center-pull ball of yarn.
Holding the end of the yarn in your hand, wrap it around two fingers, and then a little further to end at the back (A). Pull a loop of the working yarn through between your fingers (B). Slip your fingers out and tighten by pulling the cut end and the loop (C).
An alternative method of inserting the needle when working a stitch, causing it to twist. This can be done when knitting or purling, and when working knit 2 together (K2tog) or purl 2 together (P2tog).
Knitting through the back loop. Insert the right needle from right to left into the section of the stitch that lies behind the left needle.
Purling through the back loop. Insert the right needle from left to right into the section of the stitch that lies behind the left needle.
Yarn used while casting on that is later removed so stitches can be picked up seamlessly at the cast-on edge of the fabric. It is also used in the middle of the fabric where live stitches are needed for adding a section of knitting later, such as a mitten thumb, a sock heel, or a pocket. Waste yarn should be smooth, nonfuzzy, contrast-color yarn the same thickness as the working yarn, so that it knits up at the same gauge as the working yarn and can be removed easily without leaving residue.
The yarn that is attached both to the most recently worked stitch and to the ball of yarn currently in use. The term may be used to differentiate between the yarn in use and another not currently in use, between the yarn attached to the ball and the cut tail of yarn at the cast on, or between the project yarn and waste yarn.
A stitch worked between two existing stitches that produces an eyelet, which can be closed if desired by working into the back loop on the following row. Note that the yarn always travels over the top of the right needle. If the next stitch will be a knit, the yarn over must end with the yarn in back. If the following stitch will be a purl, the yarn must continue under the needle from back to front in preparation to purl.
Yarn in left hand. Either wrap counterclockwise around the needle with your index finger, or take the right needle around the back and under the yarn.
Yarn in right hand. Wrap counterclockwise once around the right needle.
Knitting charts are laid out in a grid, with one square or rectangle representing each stitch. They can represent textured pattern stitches, colored pattern stitches, and shaping, all in relation to each other. You’ll find examples of charts for color patterns in chapters 2, 5, and 6; charts for stitches that combine color and texture in chapter 3; and charts for textured patterns in chapter 4. Charts for mosaic knitting follow a different set of rules, which is explained in the section on this technique in chapter 7.
Squares versus rectangles. The cells in knitting charts are sometimes rectangular because the individual stitches in stockinette stitch are wider than they are tall. This is important for intarsia charts, because the image would end up too wide and too short if it were charted in square cells and then knitted in stockinette. Charts for stranded knitting, however, have square cells because the strands on the back of the fabric pull it in just a bit horizontally, making the stitches almost square (see charts here). Charts for patterns worked in anything other than stockinette stitch may have square or rectangular cells because there is no attempt to match the proportion of the chart to the proportion of the knitting.
Repeats. Intarsia charts may or may not depict patterns that repeat across the knitting. Large motifs or pictures that cover most of the fabric are worked only once. Smaller motifs may be used only once, repeated across the knitting, or scattered at random. If it’s not clear from the chart itself, related instructions should explain whether any repeats are necessary, or it may be obvious from illustrations of the finished project. Intarsia charts frequently show entire pieces of the garment, including any shaping, which can be very helpful in staying oriented while working a complex design.
In stranded knitting, charts frequently show only one repeat of a pattern. Large motifs may be worked only once in the center of the knitting, but small motifs are worked repeatedly across the fabric. Garment shaping is not usually shown in charts for stranded knitting. An exception to this, however, is charts for circular sweater yokes and the shaped crowns of hats (see Stranded Hat chart). You’ll find more information on this type of chart in Working from Charts, below.
Sometimes charts show a single pattern repeat plus additional stitches to center the pattern on the fabric. The repeating section of the chart is frequently indicated by a wide bracket across the bottom of the chart. In this book, the pattern repeat for both stitches and rows is indicated by the boxed area in the chart. If there is no pattern repeat indicated, check supporting text instructions for clarification.
INTARSIA CHARTS WITH RECTANGULAR CELLS. The same design is shown charted with colors and symbols.
Symbols. Color charts may be produced in the actual colors, with symbols representing each color (see above), with plain black and white squares (see charts here), or with blank squares for the background color and a symbol representing the foreground color. When more than one symbol is used, there should be a key identifying the color corresponding to each symbol unless, of course, the designer is leaving the color choice to you.
Charts also portray textured pattern stitches using individual symbols for the various stitch manipulations, such as purls, cables, yarn overs, increases, and decreases. In this book, the key to symbols appears below each chart; for abbreviations, see here.
Working from charts. Each horizontal row of a chart represents a row of your knitting. Each cell across the row represents an individual stitch. Because the first row hangs at the bottom of your knitting, the first row of a chart is the bottom row. Read across the row from right to left, which is the direction you work when you knit. For a large motif or an image worked in intarsia, work just once across the chart.
Charting the Thorn Pattern required color, symbols for stitch manipulations, and “no stitch” because the number of stitches changes.
If you are working circularly, repeat the pattern as necessary around, working the stitches depicted in the chart over and over until you get to the end of the round. Move up one row on the chart and work it from right to left, repeating as necessary until you again reach the end of round. Read from right to left on every row and continue moving up one row in the chart each time you begin a new round.
If you are working flat, work any edge stitches at the beginning of the row, repeat the repeating section of the pattern across, and end with any edge stitches at the end of the row. Turn your knitting and begin working across on the wrong side, reading the next higher row from left to right. Work any edge stitches, repeat any repeating sections, and end with any edge stitches. Continue moving up one row on the chart each time you complete a row of your knitting. Be sure to read the right-side rows from right to left and the wrong-side rows from left to right. If there are textured patterns, when working on the wrong side you also must remember to reverse these, purling when you want a knit stitch to appear on the right side of the knitting and knitting when you want a purl stitch to appear.
Some charts for stranded knitting may not have the same number of stitches on every row. This happens when working a piece with shaping, such as the yoke of a circular sweater or the crown of a hat. If there are decreases, there are fewer stitches on your needle and correspondingly fewer stitches on that row of the chart. If there are increases, there are more stitches on both the chart and the needle. Charts for shaped knitting usually have stairstep edges, rather than straight edges, to accommodate the change in stitch count from row to row. On any given row, the number of stitches on your needles should be a multiple of the stitches in the pattern repeat on the chart.
If there is shaping in the middle of a garment piece or a pattern repeat, or the pattern stitch itself has a different number of stitches on some rows, you may see a black or gray square that means “no stitch.” This mysterious name means that, while there’s a place holder in the chart for a stitch which has disappeared or will appear on a subsequent row, there’s currently no corresponding stitch on your needle. When you come to “no stitch” in the chart, skip over it, do absolutely nothing to the stitches on the needle, and begin working again with the next stitch on the chart and on your needle.
Keeping your place. It can be difficult to read charts (especially if they are small) and to keep track of your place in them. Here are some hints to make it easier:
Creating your own. Techniques for creating intarsia charts are covered in detail in chapter 6. You may find some of them helpful for transferring images to charts for other knitting techniques.
Charts can be drawn by hand, using either regular graph paper or knitter’s graph paper with rectangular cells. Knitter’s graph paper is available from machine knitting suppliers or can be printed in various sizes from Internet sites. You can begin by outlining the shape of each garment piece, then filling in the design. This is especially useful if the motif is large in proportion to the garment. Or you can design the pattern then draw the outline of the garment piece around it. With small repeating patterns, you may not need to superimpose them on the shape of the knitted piece, but may still find it helpful to do so when working out details around shaped openings like necklines and armholes. To guard against loss or destruction, if you create your chart by hand, make a color copy at a copy center, or scan and save a copy on your computer.
Charting software is also available and, depending on the product you purchase, may have several advantages over hand-charting.
Reprinted from Standards & Guidelines for Crochet and Knitting, (April 2003), with permission of the Craft Yarn Council of America.
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters). The following chart recommends the amount of ease to add to body measurement, depending on your preference
VERY-CLOSE FITTING: Actual chest/bust measurement or less
CLOSE-FITTING: 1–2" (2.5–5 cm)
STANDARD-FITTING: 2–4" (5–10 cm)
LOOSE-FITTING: 4–6" (10–15 cm)
OVERSIZED: 6" (15 cm) or more
WAIST LENGTH: Actual body measurement
HIP LENGTH: 2" (5 cm) down from waist
TUNIC LENGTH: 6" (15 cm) down from waist
WAIST LENGTH: Actual body measurement
HIP LENGTH: 6" (15 cm) down from waist
TUNIC LENGTH: 11" (28 cm) down from waist
Men’s length usually varies only 1–2" (2.5–5 cm) from the actual “back hip length” measurement (see chart at right)
Some of the charts may be hard to read. Double-tap the image to open to fill the screen. Use the two-finger pinch-out method to zoom in. (These features are available on most e-readers.)
| C1, C2, C3, etc | Indicates various colors used in pattern stitch instructions. |
| cm | Centimeter |
| inc | Increase |
| K | Knit |
| K2tog | Knit 2 together |
| K3tog | Knit 3 together |
| m | Meter |
| MC | Main color. Used when one color predominates or serves as a background color. |
| P | Purl |
| p2sso | Pass 2 slipped stitches over (this is a double decrease) |
| P2tog | Purl 2 together |
| P3tog | Purl 3 together |
| psso | Pass slipped stitch over (this is a decrease) |
| RS | Right Side |
| skp | Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (this is a decrease) |
| Sl | Slip |
| ssk | Slip slip knit. This is a decrease, worked as follows: Slip 1 knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these two stitches and knit them together. |
| ssp | Slip slip purl. This is a decrease, worked as follows: Slip 1 knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise, insert the left needle into these two stitches knitwise and slip back to the left needle together, and purl them together. |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| Tbl | Through the back loop. For example, K1 tbl is “Knit 1 through the back loop.” P1 tbl is “Purl 1 through the back loop.” |
| WS | Wrong Side |
| wyib | With yarn in back (i.e., with yarn held behind the knitting while you work the stitch) |
| wyif | With yarn in front (i.e., with yarn held in front of the knitting while you work the stitch) |
| yo | Yarn over |
| [ ], ( ) | Brackets or parentheses around instructions are used to indicate that the actions form a group. The group may be repeated several times or the actions may all be worked in one stitch. |
| * | An asterisk indicates the beginning of a section that is to be repeated. |
