County Galway


County Galway

County Galway's exuberant namesake city – the only major urban centre on the Wild Atlantic Way – is a swirl of colourful shop-lined streets filled with buskers and performance artists, enticing old pubs that hum with trad music sessions, and a sophisticated food scene that celebrates local produce.

Some of Ireland's most picturesque scenery fans out from Galway's city limits, particularly along the breathtaking Connemara Peninsula. Tiny roads wander along its coastline studded with islands, dazzling white sandy beaches and intriguing villages, while its interior shelters heath-strewn boglands, glassy lakes, looming mountains and isolated valleys.

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Galway CIty | STLJB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
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County Galway in Two Days

Day one is for Galway city – be sure to visit the City Museum, and fit in lunch at Ard Bia cafe. If it's the weekend, Galway Market is a must. In the evening, gird your loins for a crawl around Galway's lively pubs and trad music sessions. On day two take a cruise to Lough Corrib.

County Galway in Four Days

On day three follow our Connemara coastal drive and continue to the attractive village of Clifden where you'll spend the night; prebook a table for dinner at Mitchell's. On day four head back to Galway city via Kylemore Abbey and the wild bogs of Connemara National Park.

Arriving in County Galway

A car is the best option for exploring County Galway. If using public transport, base yourself in Galway city and take guided bus tours to the surrounding attractions.

There are up to nine fast, comfortable trains daily between Dublin's Heuston Station and Galway city (from €35, 2¼ hours). Citylink coaches run between Galway and Killarney twice a day (€30, three hours).

Sleeping

It's possible to explore the entire county on day trips from Galway city, which has a wealth of options in all categories (book accommodation well in advance at peak times), but some wonderful hostels, B&Bs, inns and hotels county-wide allow more time for exploration. Properties in rural areas often close outside high season – check ahead.

Walking Tour: Connemara Coastal Drive

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TOP EXPERIENCE

Pub Crawl in Galway City

Galway's pub selection is second to none. The city is awash with traditional pubs offering live music, along with stylish wine and cocktail bars, which are thronged with revellers, especially on weekends.

Great For...

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dont-missyDon't Miss

Taking in a live céilidh (trad music session) at the crowded traditional Irish pub, Tig Cóilí.

need-to-know8Need to Know

Most of Galway's pubs have live music at least a couple of nights a week, whether in an informal trad session or a headline act.

take-a-break5Take a Break

Stop off for top-notch fish and chips at McDonagh's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-565 001; www.mcdonaghs.net; 22 Quay St; cafe & takeaway mains €6-14.50, restaurant mains €13.50-26; icon-hoursgifhcafe & takeaway noon-11pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun, restaurant 5-10pm Mon-Sat).

top-tipoTop Tip

Look out for craft beers by local success story Galway Hooker (www.galwayhooker.ie), named for the iconic local fishing boats, on tap around town.

Tigh NeachtainPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tighneachtain.com; 17 Upper Cross St; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11.30am-1am Fri, 10.30am-1am Sat, 12.30-11.30pm Sun)

Painted a bright cornflower blue, this 19th-century corner pub – known simply as Neáchtain's (nock-tans) or Naughtons – has a wraparound terrace for watching Galway's passing parade, and a timber-lined interior with a roaring open fire, snugs and atmosphere to spare. Along with perfectly pulled pints of Guinness and 130-plus whiskeys, it has its own range of beers brewed by Galway Hooker.

O'Connor'sPub

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-523 468; www.oconnorsbar.com; Upper Salthill Rd, Salthill; icon-hoursgifh7.30pm-late)

Antiques fill every nook, cranny, wall and ceiling space of this 1942-established pub: clocks, crockery, farming implements, gas lights, sewing machines, fishing equipment, a stag's head and an almost life-size statue of John Wayne from The Quiet Man. Learn about them – and Irish history – on storyteller Brian Nolan's free Fireside Tour, aka the 'shortest walking tour of Ireland'.

Crane BarPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecranebar.com; 2 Sea Rd; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30am Sat, 12.30pm-11pm Sun)

West of the Corrib, this atmospheric, always crammed two-storey pub is the best spot in Galway to catch an informal céilidh (traditional music and dancing session). Music on both levels starts at 9.30pm.

Tig CóilíPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tigcoiligalway.com; Mainguard St; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-12.30am Fri & Sat, 12.30pm-11pm Sun)

Two live céilidh a day draw the crowds to this authentic fire-engine-red pub just off High St. Decorated with photos of those who have played here, it's where musicians go to get drunk or drunks go to become musicians…or something like that. A gem.

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HEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Róisín DubhPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roisindubh.net; 9 Upper Dominick St; icon-hoursgifh5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat)

From the rooftop terrace you can see sweeping views of Galway; inside emerging acts play here before they hit the big time. It's the place to hear bands but comedy's also on the menu.

Monroe's TavernPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.monroes.ie; Upper Dominick St; icon-hoursgifh10am-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Often photographed for its classic black-and-white facade, Monroe's delivers traditional music and ballads, plus it remains the only pub in the city with regular Irish dancing. Live music every night.

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JOSE IGNACIO RETAMAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Clonmacnoise

Gloriously situated overlooking the River Shannon, Clonmacnoise is one of Ireland's most important ancient monastic cities. Although it's located in neighbouring County Offaly, it's easily visited from Galway city.

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Great For...

vAg

dont-missyDon't Miss

The Cross of the Scriptures, one of Ireland's finest carved stone high crosses.

need-to-know8Need to Know

Clonmacnoise ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.heritageireland.ie; adult/child €8/4; icon-hoursgifh9am-6.30pm Jun-Aug, 10am-6pm mid-Mar–May, Sep & Oct, 10am-5.30pm Nov–mid-Mar; icon-parkgifp)

take-a-break5Take A Break

There's a coffee shop at the visitor centre, but no other source of refreshment nearby.

top-tipoTop Tip

If you plan to visit more than three or four Heritage Ireland sites, save money with an OPW Heritage Card (€25).

When St Ciarán founded a monastery here, in AD 548, it was the most important crossroads in the country, the intersection of the north–south River Shannon, and the east–west Esker Riada (Highway of the Kings).

The giant ecclesiastical city had a humble beginning and Ciarán died just seven months after building his first church. Over the years, however, Clonmacnoise grew to become an unrivalled bastion of Irish religion, literature and art and attracted a large lay population. Between the 7th and 12th centuries, monks from all over Europe came to study and pray here, helping to earn Ireland the title of the 'land of saints and scholars'.

The site is enclosed in a walled field and contains several early churches, high crosses, round towers and graves in astonishingly good condition. The surrounding marshy area is known as the Shannon Callows, home to many wild plants and one of the last refuges of the seriously endangered corncrake (a pastel-coloured relative of the coot).

Most of what you can see today dates from the 10th to 12th centuries. The monks would have lived in small huts surrounding the monastery. The site was burned and pillaged on numerous occasions by both the Vikings and the Irish. After the 12th century it fell into decline, and by the 15th century was home solely to an impoverished bishop. In 1552 the English garrison from Athlone reduced the site to a ruin.

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ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visitor Centre

Three connected conical huts, echoing the design of early monastic dwellings, house the visitors centre museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%090-967 4195; www.heritageireland.ie; R444; adult/child €8/4; icon-hoursgifh9am-6.30pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–May, Sep & Oct, to 5.30pm Nov–mid-Mar, last admission 1hr before closing; icon-parkgifp). A 20-minute audiovisual show provides an excellent introduction to the site.

The exhibition area contains the original high crosses (replicas have been put in their former locations outside) and various artefacts uncovered during excavation, including silver pins, beaded glass and an Ogham stone.

Cathedral

The largest building at Clonmacnoise, the cathedral ( GOOGLE MAP ) was originally built in AD 909, but was significantly altered and remodelled over the centuries. Its most interesting feature is the intricate 15th-century Gothic doorway with carvings of Sts Francis, Patrick and Dominic. A whisper carries from one side of the door to the other and this feature was supposedly used by lepers to confess their sins without infecting the priests.

Galway City

Arty, bohemian Galway (Gaillimh) is one of Ireland's most engaging cities. Brightly painted pubs heave with live music, while restaurants and cafes offer front-row seats for observing buskers and street theatre. Remnants of the medieval town walls lie between shops selling handcrafted Claddagh rings, books and musical instruments, bridges arch over the salmon-stuffed River Corrib, and a long promenade leads to the seaside suburb of Salthill, on Galway Bay, the source of the area's famous oysters.

While it's steeped in history, the city buzzes with a contemporary vibe, thanks in part to students, who make up a quarter of the population. Its energy and creativity have seen it designated the European Capital of Culture in 2020.

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Galway

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Aniar Boutique Cookery SchoolB3

7Shopping

18Eyre Square CentreC2

1Sights

Galway City MuseumMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galwaycitymuseum.ie; Spanish Parade House, Merchant's Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sat year-round, noon-5pm Sun Easter-Sep)

Exhibits at this modern museum covering the city's history from 1800 to 1950 include an iconic Galway hooker fishing boat, a collection of currachs (boats made of a framework of laths covered with tarred canvas) and sections covering Galway and the Great War and the city's cinematic connections.

Spanish ArchHistoric Site

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The Spanish Arch is thought to be an extension of Galway's medieval city walls, designed to protect ships moored at the nearby quay while they unloaded goods from Spain, although it was partially destroyed by the tsunami that followed the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. Today it reverberates with buskers and drummers, and the lawns and riverside form a gathering place for locals and visitors on sunny days, as kayakers negotiate the tidal rapids of the River Corrib.

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Spanish Arch | JONAH MURPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Galway MarketMarket

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galwaymarket.com; Church Lane; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun)

Galway's bohemian spirit comes alive at its street market, which has set up in this spot for centuries. Saturdays are the standout for food, when farmers sell fresh produce alongside stalls selling arts and crafts, and cooking up ready-to-eat dishes. Additional markets take place from noon to 6pm on bank holidays, Fridays in July and August and every day during the Galway International Arts Festival. Buskers add to the festive atmosphere.

Hall of the Red EarlArchaeological Site

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galwaycivictrust.ie; Druid Lane; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, 10am-1pm Sat May-Sep)

In the 13th century when the de Burgo family ruled Galway, Richard – the Red Earl – erected a large hall as a seat of power, where locals would arrive to curry favour. After the 14 tribes took over, the hall fell into ruin, and was lost until 1997 when expansion of the city's Custom House uncovered its foundations, along with over 11,000 artefacts including clay pipes and gold cuff links. The Custom House was built on stilts overhead, leaving the old foundations open.

TTours

Corrib PrincessCruise

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-563 846; www.corribprincess.ie; Woodquay; adult/child €16/7; icon-hoursgifhMay-Sep)

Cruises aboard an open-topped 157-seat boat pass historic landmarks along the River Corrib en route to the Republic's largest lake, Lough Corrib, taking 90 minutes all up. There are two or three departures per day, leaving from Woodquay, just beyond the Salmon Weir Bridge.

Galway Food ToursFood & Drink

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%086 733 2885; www.galwayfoodtours.com; €35; icon-hoursgifhby appointment)

These two-hour tours delve into Galway's food scene, taking in gourmet food shops and dining hotspots, with tastings including local cheeses, artisan breads and Galway Bay oysters. Further afield, other tours include a six-hour pub tour of Galway and Connemara (€80). There's an additional booking fee of €2. Tours depart from McCambridge's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mccambridges.com; 38/39 Shop St; dishes €5-14; icon-hoursgifhcafe 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-9pm Thu-Sat, 9.30am-6pm Sun, deli 8am-7pm Mon-Wed, 8am-9pm Thu-Sat, 9.30am-6pm Sun).

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Galway International Arts Festival | JOSE IGNACIO RETAMAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Galway Festivals

Galway's packed calendar of festivals turns the city and surrounding communities into what feels like one nonstop party – streets overflow with revellers, and pubs and restaurants often extend their opening hours.

Galway Food Festival (www.galwayfoodfestival.com; icon-hoursgifhEaster) The area's sublime food and drink are celebrated for five days with food and foraging tours, talks, cookery demonstrations and a market are among the highlights.

Cúirt International Festival of Literature (www.cuirt.ie; icon-hoursgifhlate Apr) Top-name authors converge on Galway for one of Ireland's premier literary festivals, featuring poetry slams, theatrical performances and readings.

Galway Film Fleadh (www.galwayfilmfleadh.com; icon-hoursgifhearly Jul) Early July sees the six-day Galway Film Fleadh set screens alight with new, edgy works.

Galway International Arts Festival (www.giaf.ie; icon-hoursgifhmid-late Jul) Catch performances and exhibits by top drama groups, musicians and bands, comedians, artists and much more during this two-week extravaganza of theatre, music, art and comedy.

Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival (www.galwayoysterfest.com; icon-hoursgifhlate Sep) Going strong since 1954, the world's oldest oyster festival draws thousands of visitors. Events include the National and World Oyster Opening Championships, live music, a masquerade carnival and family activities.

5Eating

Ard Bia at Nimmo'sModern Irish€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-561 114; www.ardbia.com; Spanish Arch, Longwalk; cafe dishes €6-12, dinner mains €20-28; icon-hoursgifhcafe 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun, restaurant 6-9pm; icon-veggifv)

Inside the 18th-century Custom House near the Spanish Arch, Ard Bia ('High Food' in Irish) is decorated with works by local artists and upcycled vintage furniture. Organic produce (some foraged) features on the seasonal menus of both the upstairs restaurant (adjoining a wine bar), and the street-level cafe serving fantastic brunches followed by lunch dishes such as tomato and fennel chowder.

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Ard Bia at Nimmo’s | KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Oscar'sSeafood€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-582 180; www.oscarsseafoodbistro.com; Upper Dominick St; mains €15.50-25.50; icon-hoursgifh6-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

The menu changes daily at this outstanding seafood restaurant but might include monkfish poached in saffron and white wine served with cockles, seaweed-steamed Galway Bay lobster with garlic-lemon butter, or lemon sole with samphire. From Monday to Thursday before 7pm, its two-course early-bird menu (€18.50) is a steal.

Cava BodegaTapas€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-539 884; www.cavarestaurant.ie; 1 Middle St; tapas €4-16, paella €15; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Mon-Wed, 5-10.30pm Thu, 4-11pm Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat, noon-9.30pm Sun; icon-veggifv)

Over 50 regional Spanish tapas dishes are given a gourmet twist by star chef JP McMahon, whose other ventures include Michelin-starred Aniar. Showstoppers include salt cod with seaweed jam, black-olive fig cake, quail eggs with chorizo oil, and pine-nut-crusted beetroot, along with over 100 Spanish wines. On Friday and Saturday, the bodega's bar stays open late.

LoamGastronomy€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-569 727; https://loamgalway.com; 2-/3-course menus €40/50, 7-course menu €70, with wine pairings €105; icon-hoursgifh6-11pm Tue-Sat)

Enda McEvoy is one of the most groundbreaking chefs in Ireland today (with a Michelin star to prove it), producing inspired flavour combinations from home-grown, locally sourced or foraged ingredients: dried hay, fresh moss, edible flowers, wild oats, forest gooseberries, Salthill sea vegetables and hand-cut peat (which McEvoy uses in his extraordinary peat-smoked ice cream).

AniarModern Irish€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-535 947; http://aniarrestaurant.ie; 53 Lower Dominick St; lunch menu €55, dinner menus €70-115, with wine pairings €105-180; icon-hoursgifh6-9.30pm Tue-Thu, 5.30-9.30pm Fri, noon-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Sat)

Terroir specialist Aniar is passionate about the flavours and food producers of Galway and West Ireland. Owner/chef JP McMahon's multicourse tasting menus have earned him a Michelin star, yet the casual spring-green dining space remains refreshingly down to earth. The wine list favours small producers. Reserve at least a couple of weeks in advance.

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Galway oysters | MARIAKOVALEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6Drinking & Nightlife

Galway's nightlife is a blast, see Pub Crawl in Galway City for a top night out.

8Information

Galway's large, efficient tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-537 700; www.discoverireland.ie; Forster St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat) can help arrange tours and has reams of information on the city and region.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Bus Éireann ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.buseireann.ie; Cara Bus Station, Station Rd) operates daily services to all major cities in the Republic and the North from Cara Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-562 000; Station Rd), near the train station. Dublin (€15.70, 3¾ hours) has an hourly service. Other services fan out across the region.

Citylink ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.citylink.ie; ticket office 17 Forster St; icon-hoursgifhoffice 9am-6pm; icon-wifigifW) services depart from Galway Coach Station (New Coach Station; GOOGLE MAP ; Fairgreen Rd), near the tourist office. Destinations include Clifden, Cork and Dublin.

GoBus ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gobus.ie; Galway Coach Station; icon-wifigifW) has frequent services between Galway Coach Station and Dublin (3½ hours) and Dublin Airport (three hours). Fares start at €18.

Train

From the train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.irishrail.ie), just off Eyre Sq, there are up to 10 direct trains daily to/from Dublin's Heuston Station (from €18, 2¼ hours), and five daily to Ennis (€10, 1¼ hours). Connections with other train routes can be made at Athlone (from €18, one hour).

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GRACEPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Claddagh Rings

The fishing village of Claddagh has long been subsumed into Galway's city centre, but its namesake rings survive as a timeless reminder.

Popular with people of Irish descent everywhere, the rings depict a heart (symbolising love) between two outstretched hands (friendship), topped by a crown (loyalty). Jewellery shops selling Claddagh rings include Ireland's oldest, Thomas Dillon's Claddagh Gold ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.claddaghring.ie; 1 Quay St; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm).

Connemara

The name Connemara (Conamara) translates as 'Inlets of the Sea' and the roads along the peninsula's filigreed coast bear this out as they wind around the small bays and coves of this breathtaking stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way.

Connemara's starkly beautiful interior, traversed by the N59, is a kaleidoscope of rusty bogs, lonely valleys and shimmering black lakes. At its heart are the Maumturk Mountains and the pewter-tinged quartzite peaks of the Twelve Bens mountain range, with a network of scenic hiking and biking trails.

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Connemara | PETR BREZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8Information

Galway's tourist office has lots of information on the area. Online, Connemara Tourism (www.connemara.ie) and Go Connemara (www.goconnemara.com) have region-wide info and links.

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie) serves most of Connemara. Services can be sporadic, and some operate May to September only, or July and August only.

Citylink (www.citylink.ie) has several buses a day linking Galway city with Clifden via Oughterard and on to Cleggan and Letterfrack.

For stop-offs between towns, you might be able to arrange a drop-off with the driver.

Car

Your own wheels are the best way to get off this scenic region's beaten track. Watch out for the narrow roads' stone walls and meandering Connemara sheep.

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Church ruins, Inchagoill | REMIZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Inchagoill

The largest island on Lough Corrib, Inchagoill lies about 2km offshore from the lake's edge 4.5km north of Oughterard. The island is a lonely place dotted with ancient remains. Corrib Cruises runs day cruises. Alternatively rent your own boat from Molloy's Boats ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%091-866 954; Baurisheen; motor/rowing boat per day €65/35, motor boat with guide €140; icon-hoursgifhby appointment).

Inchagoill's most fascinating sight is an obelisk called Lia Luguaedon Mac Menueh (Stone of Luguaedon, Son of Menueh), which identifies a burial site. It stands about 75cm tall, near the Saints' Church.

It's claimed that the Latin writing on the stone is the second-oldest Christian inscription in Europe, after those in the catacombs in Rome.

The prettiest church is the Romanesque Teampall na Naoimh (Saints' Church), probably built in the 9th or 10th century, with carvings around its arched doorway. Teampall Phádraig (St Patrick's Church) is a small oratory of a very early design, with some later additions.

Oughterard & Around

The charmingly down-to-earth village of Oughterard (Uachtar Árd) sits on the shore of the Republic's biggest lake, Lough Corrib. Over 48km long and covering some 200 sq km, the lake virtually cuts off western Galway from the rest of the country and encompasses more than 360 islands.

1Sights & Activities

Aughnanure CastleCastle

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.heritageireland.ie; off N59; adult/child €5/3; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-6pm Mar-late Oct)

Built around 1500, this superbly preserved fortress signposted 4.2km east of Oughterard was home to the 'Fighting O'Flahertys', who controlled the region for hundreds of years after they fought off the Normans. The six-storey tower house stands on a rocky outcrop overlooking Lough Corrib and has been extensively restored.

Surrounding the castle are the remains of an unusual double bawn (area surrounded by walls outside the main castle); there's also the remains of the Banqueting Hall and a small, now isolated watchtower, with a conical roof. The River Drimneen once enclosed the castle on three sides, while today the river washes through a number of natural caverns and caves beneath the castle.

Corrib CruisesCruise

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%087 994 6380; www.corribcruises.com; Oughterard Pier; adult/child €28/14; icon-hoursgifhnoon Wed-Mon Jul & Aug)

Cruises from Oughterard run to Inchagoill ( GOOGLE MAP ) island and Ashford Castle near Cong, County Mayo and back, taking a total of six hours. Check the website for seasonal sailing schedules.

8Getting There & Away

Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie) runs up to eight times daily to/from Galway city (€8.30, 40 minutes) and Clifden (€15.50, two hours) via Roundstone (€15.50, 1½ hours).

Citylink (www.citylink.ie) has five services daily to/from Galway (€9, 40 minutes) and Clifden (€13, 50 minutes) via the quicker N59.

Roundstone

Clustered around a boat-filled harbour, picture-perfect Roundstone (Cloch na Rón) is the kind of Irish village you hoped to find. Colourful terrace houses and inviting pubs overlook the shimmering recess of Bertraghboy Bay, which is home to dramatic tidal flows, lobster trawlers and traditional currach boats with tarred canvas bottoms stretched over wicker frames.

5Eating

O'Dowd'sSeafood€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%095-35809; www.odowdsseafoodbar.com; Main St; mains restaurant €13-22, bar €13-15; icon-hoursgifhrestaurant 5-9.30pm, bar menu 10am-9.30pm; icon-wifigifW)

Roundstone lobster, Aran Islands hake, plaice and sea bass, local crab and mackerel smoked in-house are sourced off the old stone dock directly opposite this wonderfully authentic old pub and restaurant, while produce comes from its garden. Bountiful seafood platters cost €29. There's a great list of Irish craft beers and ciders. Its neighbouring summertime cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.odowdsseafoodbar.com; Main St; dishes €5.50-11.50; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mar-Oct; icon-wifigifW) serves breakfast and lunch.

Spoken Irish

One of the most important Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) areas in Ireland begins around Spiddal just east of Connemara and stretches west to Cashel and north into County Mayo.

That the Irish language is enjoying a renaissance around the country can be credited in part to media outlets based in Connemara and Galway. Ireland's national Irish-language radio station Radio na Gaeltachta (www.rte.ie/rnag) and its Irish-language TV station, TG4 (www.tg4.ie), sprang up in the 1990s and continue to thrive.

Clifden & Around

A definitive stop on the Wild Atlantic Way, Connemara's 'capital', Clifden (An Clochán, meaning 'stepping stones'), is an appealing Victorian-era town presiding over the head of the narrow bay where the River Owenglin tumbles into the sea.

2Activities

Sky RoadScenic Drive

( GOOGLE MAP )

Signposted west of Clifden's Market Sq, this aptly named 15km driving and cycling route traces a dizzying loop out to the township of Kingston and back to Clifden, taking in rugged, stunningly beautiful coastal scenery en route. Set out clockwise from the southern side for the best views, which peak at sunset.

En route there are several viewpoints where you can park.

5Eating

Mitchell'sSeafood€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%095-21867; www.mitchellsrestaurantclifden.com; Market St; mains lunch €10.50-15, dinner €18-28, seafood platter €24; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm)

Seafood from the surrounding waters takes centre stage at this elegant spot, from lunchtime sandwiches such as smoked mackerel and velvety chowder through to its standout Connemara platter (available at both lunch and dinner), piled high with Rossaveal prawns, Oranmore oysters, Connemara smoked salmon and Dunloughan crab. Strong wine list. Book ahead in the evenings.

Letterfrack & Around

Founded by Quakers in the mid-19th century, Letterfrack (Leitir Fraic) is a crossroads with a few pubs and B&Bs. But the forested setting and nearby coast are a magnet for outdoors adventure seekers. A 4km walk to the peak of Tully Mountain (356m) takes 40 minutes and offers uplifting ocean views.

1Sights

Connemara National ParkPark

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.connemaranationalpark.ie; off N59; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Immediately southeast of Letterfrack, Connemara National Park spans 2957 dramatic hectares of bog, mountains, heath and woodlands.

The park encloses a number of the Twelve Bens, including Bencullagh, Benbrack and Benbaun. The heart of the park is Gleann Mór (Big Glen), through which the River Polladirk flows. There's fine walking up the glen and over the surrounding mountains along with short self-guided walks.

Guided nature walks ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.connemaranationalpark.ie; icon-hoursgifh11am Wed & Fri early Jul-Aug) led by park rangers depart from the visitor centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.connemaranationalpark.ie; off N59; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct).

Kylemore AbbeyHistoric Building

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kylemoreabbey.com; off N59; adult/child €13/free; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-5.30pm Sep & Oct, 9am-6pm Apr-Jun, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar)

Photogenically perched on the shores of Pollacapall Lough, 4.3km east of Letterfrack, this crenellated 19th-century neo-Gothic fantasy was built for a wealthy English businessman, Mitchell Henry, who spent his honeymoon in Connemara. Only ground-floor rooms are open to visitors, but you can wander down the lake to the Gothic church, and admission includes entry to the extravagant Victorian walled gardens, around a 20-minute walk away (linked by a free shuttle bus from April to October).

8Getting There & Away

Citylink (www.citylink.ie) buses serve Letterfrack from Galway (€15, two hours, three daily) and continue to Clifden (€5, 20 minutes).

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Celtic cross | MICHAEL MANTKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©