Burma: Rivers of Flavor

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A Pa-O woman at a rural market south of Inle Lake; Pa-O women wear scarves or towels as turbans, as well as distinctive narrow black jackets and tunics. A bus breakdown, this time for a flat tire. The driver of a scooter taxi takes a nap. In the Mandalay market, crowded local truck-buses serve as public transport out of town.

WHEN THE ELECTRICITY cuts out, the bus you’re in breaks down, or any one of many other things goes wrong, the way to deal with it Burmese style is to stay cool and to say with a smile, to yourself or to others, “Ya-ba-day” (“Never mind”). It’s a phrase to have on hand at all times, a reminder that things could be worse and that we’ll all be fine, despite the inconvenience/hardship/frustration of the moment. The thing not to do is show annoyance or frustration.

Cultivating a calm frame of mind is a lot easier if you’re a traveler than if you’re living in a place where, for example, the electricity is unreliable. How do you get that shirt ironed and then get to work on time if things have come to a standstill for some reason? How do you deal with the possibility that the police could arrest you for your political views? The answer is that you learn to cultivate a certain equanimity. It’s the one thing you can control. And one way of doing that is to learn to laugh a “never mind” at an unexpected difficulty, or at the painfulness of your situation, rather than getting upset or angry.

Two places in Burma that have taught me a lot are the internet café and the tea shop. When I’m on the computer in an internet café, I tend to get cranky if connections are slow or there’s a problem accessing my e-mail. But those problems are constant in Burma, and I’ve learned to let it go. My models for that are the young guys who work at these cafés—they manage to stay cool even with the endless technical glitches that come with old equipment and unreliable electricity. They’re an ongoing reminder about ya-ba-day.

The tea shop lesson also has to do with a certain detachment, but it’s more subtle. In the early morning, people stop at tea shops for a bite to eat, then head out quickly to work or other obligations. Later in the day, things are more relaxed: people meet for a tea and conversation, maybe a snack too.

Everyone in the tea shop keeps an attentive eye on the street and on the comings and goings in the shop. They notice who’s there, who’s new and strange. Life anywhere can have its unexpected events, but when the military is all-powerful and the government is totalitarian, as it was for years in Burma, things feel extra-fragile. As Burma opens up and life gets easier, maybe people in tea shops won’t need to be so alert. But in the meantime their attentiveness to the vibe helps everyone stay calm, so they can meet whatever comes next with dignity.

SERVES 4

In this beef curry—a real pleasure on a cold day—tomato helps tenderize the meat while also adding an acid note to the sauce. The meat is marinated, seared briefly, and then simmered in plenty of water for two hours, until extremely tender.

Serve with rice, a salad, and a simple vegetable dish.

Place the meat in a large bowl, add the salt and turmeric, and mix well. Add the tomato, ginger, shallots, chile powder, and 1 tablespoon of the oil and stir and mix so the meat is coated with the flavorings. Cover and set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes, or as long as 2 hours (refrigerate if the wait will be more than 1 hour).

Place a large wok or a wide heavy pot over medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Toss in the beef with the marinade, and cook, stirring frequently, until all the meat has changed color. Add the water and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and let cook, half-covered, for 2 hours, or until the meat is meltingly tender and the oil is floating on the surface of the sauce. (Add more water if the liquid is running low.)

Taste for salt, and adjust if necessary. Serve hot or at room temperature.

SERVES 4

This inviting take on beef curry, adapted from Ma Thanegi’s book An Introduction to Myanmar Cuisine, is also delectable as leftovers the next day. Be sure to allow for 90 minutes of cooking time so that the meat is meltingly tender.

Serve with rice and a vegetable with a tart or bitter edge, such as stir-fried dandelion greens or radicchio or broccoli rabe, to complement the sweetness of the shallots.

Place the beef in a wide bowl, add the salt and turmeric, and mix with your hands, rubbing the flavors into the meat. Let marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or as long as 4 hours.

If you have a mortar, pound the garlic and ginger to a paste; set aside.

Place a wok or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, then toss in the garlic and ginger and cook until softened, 2 or 3 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the meat, and cook for several minutes, stirring and pressing the meat against the hot surface of the pan. Add the water and fish sauce and bring to a boil, then partially cover and simmer for 1 hour. Most of the water will evaporate; add more water if the pan is running dry. (The dish can be made ahead to this point, allowed to cool, and refrigerated for as long as 24 hours; add ½ cup water and bring back to a simmer before proceeding.)

Add the fried shallots and stir in, then add the whole shallots and chile powder and cook for another 20 minutes or so, until the shallots are soft and the meat is very tender.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

NEVER MIND!