New Zealand Compost Box

With this style bin, the composting material is less visible and three of the slatted walls are stationary (fastened to stakes in the ground). The front panel, however, is composed of boards that slide in and out to make the work of filling and emptying the box, as well as turning the material, easy.

MATERIALS

Lumber

1"×6" cedar (thirteen 8' lengths)

Ten 2"×2"×3' cedar balusters

Supplies

One hundred and twelve 1⅝" galvanized wood screws

Four 1¼" galvanized wood screws

Tools

Tape measure

Pencil

Carpenter’s square

Wood saw

Power drill

" twist drill bit

Driver bit to match screws

Hammer

Compost Materials

One of the great things about composting is the broad range of materials you can use to build the pile. Some of the more common choices include lawn clippings, spoiled hay, garden refuse, kitchen garbage, wood ashes, and leaves. Almost anything organic will do, and the greater the variety, the better the pile. However, some items, such as meat, eggs, dairy products, and grease, can attract rodents and are best avoided. It’s also advisable to forgo any herbicide-treated plants.

NEW ZEALAND COMPOST BOX. The slatted sides of this box provide adequate air circulation while reducing the visibility of the composting material inside it.

Cutting and drilling the lumber. From the 1"×6", cut a 59¼" length and two 5" blocks for the support bar, as well as twenty-four 47¾" lengths for the bin slats. Then predrill screw holes in six slats for the back of the bin and twelve slats for the sides, as shown in the cutting diagram. The remaining six slats will be for the front of the bin. Use four of the cedar balusters to create stakes by tapering the ends to points.

Constructing the box. Begin by building the three fixed panels. Start with the back, laying two inside corner balusters on a flat surface and attaching the six back slats to them. Screw the first slat flush to the top ends and side edges of the corners and the second slat ½" up from the bottom. Then fill in the space between them with the remaining four slats, spacing them about ½" apart. (See fig. 1.)

Next, make up the two side panels, but this time screw the front ends of the side slats to one inside corner baluster (which will be positioned at the front of the bin) and leave the back ends of the slats unscrewed. (You will attach them to the back panel once you locate the bin.)

Drive two stakes into the ground about 37" apart where you want the back of the bin to stand. Lean the back panel against the stakes (the stakes should be on the outside of the bin), and screw the panel to the stakes. Then lean the side panels in place, and fasten the loose ends to the inside corner posts E of the back panels. (See fig. 1.)

Create a channel in the front corner of each side panel for installing the removable slats that will make up the bin’s front panel. To do this, attach another corner post parallel to the existing one, spacing the two just far enough apart for a slat to slide between them. (See fig. 1.)

Cutting diagram

FIG. 1

Next, partially sink 1⅝" screws into either bottom edge of the six front slats so that the heads are ½" above the wood (fig. 2). The screws will keep the boards properly spaced. Slide the slats down through the channels (with the screwed edges down). Finally, use the 1¼" screws to fasten a support block to each end of the support bar and set the bar across the top of the bin to keep the sides from spreading. Drive a stake into the ground on each side of the bin, and fasten the bin to it from the inside.

FIG. 2